| CryderSpeed | 11-24-2006 06:08 PM |
Whaddya think of this shift knob?
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This is just a little something I cooked up in solidworks, I'm gonna try and drop it into MasterCAM and produce it on one of my school's CNC lathes.
[IMG]http://static.flickr.com/102/305249830_da07f86e9f_o.jpg[/IMG]
Diameter of the sphere is 50mm or 1.9ish inches, with an overall length of 75mm. The black part is going to be a UHMW PE for durability and heat characteristics, while the silver insert will be a 15mm deep stainless steel counterweight that I plan on machining a shift pattern into. I figured it was high time I put my CAD skills to use, if y'all like what you see I may get a vendor account and start slangin' these and other CNC'd goodies!
[IMG]http://static.flickr.com/102/305249830_da07f86e9f_o.jpg[/IMG]
Diameter of the sphere is 50mm or 1.9ish inches, with an overall length of 75mm. The black part is going to be a UHMW PE for durability and heat characteristics, while the silver insert will be a 15mm deep stainless steel counterweight that I plan on machining a shift pattern into. I figured it was high time I put my CAD skills to use, if y'all like what you see I may get a vendor account and start slangin' these and other CNC'd goodies!
| Frozen Sti | 11-24-2006 06:50 PM |
looks pretty sweet!
| IIdiceII | 11-24-2006 07:02 PM |
looks like a prodrive/kartboy
| [email�protected] | 11-24-2006 07:07 PM |
[QUOTE=IIdiceII;16100693]looks like a prodrive/kartboy[/QUOTE]
yup. go for it.
Tom
yup. go for it.
Tom
| G3Red04WRX | 11-24-2006 07:27 PM |
The look and concept are both there, but UHMW might not be the best idea. It is a self lubricating material. Would be pretty bad to throw a shift and your hand slips right off the shift knob. You might want to go for more of a Delrin or PVC material for the outer surface. Both of these materials are relatively slip resistant when machined, and would have the same thermal characteristics of the UHMW.
Its always nice to see people making one offs for themselves and friends, but dont quit your dayjob to become a vendor selling them, you probably wont even make ends meet each month after you pay off the vendors fees.
Its always nice to see people making one offs for themselves and friends, but dont quit your dayjob to become a vendor selling them, you probably wont even make ends meet each month after you pay off the vendors fees.
| Dforce | 11-24-2006 07:48 PM |
I like the Kartboy.
| CryderSpeed | 11-24-2006 09:17 PM |
Hmmm, I have no idea what a prodrive or a kartboy knob looks like, so my apologies if I've copied anyone inadvertently.
I was thinking about Delrin, as well, but some of my paintball buddies told me that it swells and contracts with changes in humidity, something we go through alot of in the PNW. I guess if I get my tolerances right it won't be an issue though.
Bummer about the vendor's fees, I didn't know they'd be so high. Oh well, there's certainly always ebay, this whole thing is really more of an exercise in taking a design to production than a moneymaking scheme anyways.
I was thinking about Delrin, as well, but some of my paintball buddies told me that it swells and contracts with changes in humidity, something we go through alot of in the PNW. I guess if I get my tolerances right it won't be an issue though.
Bummer about the vendor's fees, I didn't know they'd be so high. Oh well, there's certainly always ebay, this whole thing is really more of an exercise in taking a design to production than a moneymaking scheme anyways.
| goixiz | 11-24-2006 09:22 PM |
How much do you think you would sell it for ?
| CryderSpeed | 11-24-2006 09:31 PM |
[QUOTE=goixiz;16101556]How much do you think you would sell it for ?[/QUOTE]
I'd shoot for the $40 range, materials won't be too bad, but I still need to negociate time in a machine shop to get a truly clear picture of cost. In a perfect world I'd be able to use my school's CNC equipment for free or at least a greatly reduced rate, but I'm not quite there yet.
I also want to design some custom radar detector mounts for imprezas, I'll try and get that going next month after I move into my new place... Quick question for anyone in the know, do you think an aluminum radar detector mount would interfere with its operation at all?
I'd shoot for the $40 range, materials won't be too bad, but I still need to negociate time in a machine shop to get a truly clear picture of cost. In a perfect world I'd be able to use my school's CNC equipment for free or at least a greatly reduced rate, but I'm not quite there yet.
I also want to design some custom radar detector mounts for imprezas, I'll try and get that going next month after I move into my new place... Quick question for anyone in the know, do you think an aluminum radar detector mount would interfere with its operation at all?
| bikefreax | 11-24-2006 10:23 PM |
I like the looks of it. I currently have a Greddy which I hate. It gets so cold in the winter and extremely hot in summer. Would be interested in one of yours if you get them going.
| KAX | 11-24-2006 11:49 PM |
id buy it.
| Idok | 11-25-2006 09:41 AM |
i'd like it better as solid black.....
| Ghosthound | 11-25-2006 11:44 PM |
[QUOTE=IIdiceII;16100693]looks like a prodrive/kartboy[/QUOTE]
[[email�protected];16100729]yup. go for it.
Tom[/QUOTE]
haha, i like how even though its a kartboy knockoff, Tom is telling you to go for it!
[[email�protected];16100729]yup. go for it.
Tom[/QUOTE]
haha, i like how even though its a kartboy knockoff, Tom is telling you to go for it!
| rally_on | 11-25-2006 11:47 PM |
why not make it perfectly round? (no sticker thing on top)
| CryderSpeed | 11-26-2006 12:32 AM |
[QUOTE=Ghosthound;16109841]haha, i like how even though its a kartboy knockoff, Tom is telling you to go for it![/QUOTE]
An uninentional knockoff, lol. Upon inspection of the kartboy knob, that one is slightly flattened, more of a "doorknob" shape whereas mine is spherically derived.
But anyways, as far as an all-black knob is concerned, that would be super easy and cheaper to boot. That chunk of stainless up top is more for weight than anything, I'd have to change like two lines in the solidworks file to make it all plastic. I'll throw a pic up of one later tonight, maybe.
Thanks for the responses, all. I'm setting up MasterCAM tomorrow and hopefully I'll have the toolpaths done mid-week. All that's left is to bang out a production schedule and order materials, not bad for only having one term of autocad instruction:D
An uninentional knockoff, lol. Upon inspection of the kartboy knob, that one is slightly flattened, more of a "doorknob" shape whereas mine is spherically derived.
But anyways, as far as an all-black knob is concerned, that would be super easy and cheaper to boot. That chunk of stainless up top is more for weight than anything, I'd have to change like two lines in the solidworks file to make it all plastic. I'll throw a pic up of one later tonight, maybe.
Thanks for the responses, all. I'm setting up MasterCAM tomorrow and hopefully I'll have the toolpaths done mid-week. All that's left is to bang out a production schedule and order materials, not bad for only having one term of autocad instruction:D
| Mr_Hox | 11-26-2006 08:43 PM |
Looks good, can't wait to see pics of the actual product!
| tacomaprime | 11-26-2006 08:52 PM |
You gonna etch the gears into the top of it?
| gingertooth | 11-26-2006 09:02 PM |
that looks awesome. i would like to see it when it's done.
| Handsdown | 11-26-2006 10:10 PM |
just make a big cylindrical hole in the top instead of the sticker thing, make the grip part out of temp-resistant plastic, and make an insert that is heavy metal with gears etched out of it that fits into the top hole... you could even make it so the metal completes the sphere, but with gears etched into it.
that way you'd have a cool knob with metal etching, be able to make 5 and 6 speed versions rather easily, and have a weather-resistant, fairly neutral temperature knob that has some weight to it!
just use some epoxy to secure the metal in the plastic.
i like your design, but it's ideas like that(slightly creative) that i'd like to see you kids with access to CNC lathes come up with.
that way you'd have a cool knob with metal etching, be able to make 5 and 6 speed versions rather easily, and have a weather-resistant, fairly neutral temperature knob that has some weight to it!
just use some epoxy to secure the metal in the plastic.
i like your design, but it's ideas like that(slightly creative) that i'd like to see you kids with access to CNC lathes come up with.
| pavelkolp | 11-26-2006 10:12 PM |
nice
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i like it looks really nice i will probably buy one
| veightkiller | 11-26-2006 10:14 PM |
i want to see the real thing first.
| dyslexicwrx | 11-26-2006 10:29 PM |
Yea, It looks like the Prodive knob. That is nice..
| CryderSpeed | 11-28-2006 03:26 AM |
[QUOTE=Handsdown;16117154]just make a big cylindrical hole in the top instead of the sticker thing, make the grip part out of temp-resistant plastic, and make an insert that is heavy metal with gears etched out of it that fits into the top hole... you could even make it so the metal completes the sphere, but with gears etched into it.
that way you'd have a cool knob with metal etching, be able to make 5 and 6 speed versions rather easily, and have a weather-resistant, fairly neutral temperature knob that has some weight to it!
just use some epoxy to secure the metal in the plastic.
i like your design, but it's ideas like that(slightly creative) that i'd like to see you kids with access to CNC lathes come up with.[/QUOTE]
Dude, you just described EXACTLY what I built, lol:)
I tried explaining it above, but here's a much better representation of the part, and yes, there'll be a shift pattern machined into the face of the stainless plug:
[IMG]http://static.flickr.com/107/308484342_b3b1fb0d8e_o.jpg[/IMG]
Also, here's an all-plastic version for someone who requested it:
[IMG]http://static.flickr.com/122/308484341_d1d651aa57_o.jpg[/IMG]
Lookin' to have a prototype by this time next week, hope I can stay away from snowboarding long enough to make it happen!
that way you'd have a cool knob with metal etching, be able to make 5 and 6 speed versions rather easily, and have a weather-resistant, fairly neutral temperature knob that has some weight to it!
just use some epoxy to secure the metal in the plastic.
i like your design, but it's ideas like that(slightly creative) that i'd like to see you kids with access to CNC lathes come up with.[/QUOTE]
Dude, you just described EXACTLY what I built, lol:)
I tried explaining it above, but here's a much better representation of the part, and yes, there'll be a shift pattern machined into the face of the stainless plug:
[IMG]http://static.flickr.com/107/308484342_b3b1fb0d8e_o.jpg[/IMG]
Also, here's an all-plastic version for someone who requested it:
[IMG]http://static.flickr.com/122/308484341_d1d651aa57_o.jpg[/IMG]
Lookin' to have a prototype by this time next week, hope I can stay away from snowboarding long enough to make it happen!
| Handsdown | 11-28-2006 11:24 AM |
oh, holy crap. cool.
| KAX | 11-28-2006 02:55 PM |
wow, i really want one. definitely let me know how it goes.
| athakur999 | 11-28-2006 03:02 PM |
I would definitely be interested if you start making them. I'm tired of burning my hand in the summer and freezing it in the winter with my Momo :)
| Mr_Hox | 11-28-2006 03:36 PM |
Wow, now that I see the second set of pics I understand it a bit more. And would LOVE to have one!
Any chance the stainless-steel plug will be easily swapped out for different size/weight plugs?
Any chance the stainless-steel plug will be easily swapped out for different size/weight plugs?
| Chris_Lee | 11-28-2006 05:05 PM |
A couple of ideas:
1. You could create a threaded aluminum tapered sleeve as a means for attaching the knob. So...this means your aluminum insert will run all the way through and used to attach to the shift lever. The only draw back is the insert will get hot and burn the palm of your hand during the summer.
2. Slice the sphere part of the knob in half. Mill it to fit your counter weight. Then use recessed machine screws to hold it together. This will keep you from burning your hand in the summer.
If you can...use delrin. It is a little pricey, and it comes in both white and black. It is a super strong type of plastic. You can use helical inserts to attach your screws. As far as attaching to the shift lever; you will need a threaded M12 x 1.25 press-in insert.
All the parts you will ever need can be found here:
[url]http://www.mcmaster.com/[/url]
Good luck!
1. You could create a threaded aluminum tapered sleeve as a means for attaching the knob. So...this means your aluminum insert will run all the way through and used to attach to the shift lever. The only draw back is the insert will get hot and burn the palm of your hand during the summer.
2. Slice the sphere part of the knob in half. Mill it to fit your counter weight. Then use recessed machine screws to hold it together. This will keep you from burning your hand in the summer.
If you can...use delrin. It is a little pricey, and it comes in both white and black. It is a super strong type of plastic. You can use helical inserts to attach your screws. As far as attaching to the shift lever; you will need a threaded M12 x 1.25 press-in insert.
All the parts you will ever need can be found here:
[url]http://www.mcmaster.com/[/url]
Good luck!
| protein | 11-28-2006 05:10 PM |
i like it!
| CryderSpeed | 11-28-2006 09:59 PM |
Mr._Hox-
I have a few ideas for some kind of internal adjustable weight system contained inside the shifter itself, but that will require a patent;) . In the interim it would be possible to max out the dimensions of the insert giving it a little more weight.
Chris_Lee-
Thanks for the input. I'm definitely going with delrin, UHMWPE sounds like it will be "too slick." I checked out mcmaster but I couldn't find any press-in inserts in a M12x1.25 size, but I could find helicoils, would those work? Also, is there any reason I shouldn't just tap into the plastic with a M12x1.25 tap?
I have a few ideas for some kind of internal adjustable weight system contained inside the shifter itself, but that will require a patent;) . In the interim it would be possible to max out the dimensions of the insert giving it a little more weight.
Chris_Lee-
Thanks for the input. I'm definitely going with delrin, UHMWPE sounds like it will be "too slick." I checked out mcmaster but I couldn't find any press-in inserts in a M12x1.25 size, but I could find helicoils, would those work? Also, is there any reason I shouldn't just tap into the plastic with a M12x1.25 tap?
| Chris_Lee | 11-29-2006 12:26 PM |
You can tap delrin but it won't hold long. A helicoil insert in that size would work. Include a little thread locker and that should hold pretty good. (Loctite 242 or something).
***Keep it super easy to make without using a bunch of hardware and having to do a lot of extra work that will drive the cost up. Just take a piece of aluminum rod, sometimes called round bar, and tap the end of it (nobody likes knobs that have set screws). Design your knob to fit over the piece of aluminum and use recessed machine screws to attach your knob to the aluminum. Use some sort of pading on the inside, so you don't have to keep your tolerences to tight, and this will keep the knob from feeling lose. You can use a combination of different lengths or diameters to adjust the weight. Here is a quick image. You can locate your screws where ever you want. This is just a rough idea. The knob is yellow and the aluminum round bar is blue.
[IMG]http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p41/cls117/knob1.jpg[/IMG]
***Keep it super easy to make without using a bunch of hardware and having to do a lot of extra work that will drive the cost up. Just take a piece of aluminum rod, sometimes called round bar, and tap the end of it (nobody likes knobs that have set screws). Design your knob to fit over the piece of aluminum and use recessed machine screws to attach your knob to the aluminum. Use some sort of pading on the inside, so you don't have to keep your tolerences to tight, and this will keep the knob from feeling lose. You can use a combination of different lengths or diameters to adjust the weight. Here is a quick image. You can locate your screws where ever you want. This is just a rough idea. The knob is yellow and the aluminum round bar is blue.
[IMG]http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p41/cls117/knob1.jpg[/IMG]
| CryderSpeed | 11-30-2006 12:33 AM |
[QUOTE=Chris_Lee;16150619]You can tap delrin but it won't hold long. A helicoil insert in that size would work. Include a little thread locker and that should hold pretty good. (Loctite 242 or something).
***Keep it super easy to make without using a bunch of hardware and having to do a lot of extra work that will drive the cost up. Just take a piece of aluminum rod, sometimes called round bar, and tap the end of it (nobody likes knobs that have set screws). Design your knob to fit over the piece of aluminum and use recessed machine screws to attach your knob to the aluminum. Use some sort of pading on the inside, so you don't have to keep your tolerences to tight, and this will keep the knob from feeling lose. You can use a combination of different lengths or diameters to adjust the weight. Here is a quick image. You can locate your screws where ever you want. This is just a rough idea. The knob is yellow and the aluminum round bar is blue.
[IMG]http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p41/cls117/knob1.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
Hmmm, interesting approach, lots of food for thought here! Thanks for the graphic as well. I've got mastercam up and running, but now I need to learn how to use the thing, and that may take a little while as I have no training in it whatsoever, lol. That's ok though, this whole thing is a learning exercise for me so that's what I plan on doing.
***Keep it super easy to make without using a bunch of hardware and having to do a lot of extra work that will drive the cost up. Just take a piece of aluminum rod, sometimes called round bar, and tap the end of it (nobody likes knobs that have set screws). Design your knob to fit over the piece of aluminum and use recessed machine screws to attach your knob to the aluminum. Use some sort of pading on the inside, so you don't have to keep your tolerences to tight, and this will keep the knob from feeling lose. You can use a combination of different lengths or diameters to adjust the weight. Here is a quick image. You can locate your screws where ever you want. This is just a rough idea. The knob is yellow and the aluminum round bar is blue.
[IMG]http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p41/cls117/knob1.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
Hmmm, interesting approach, lots of food for thought here! Thanks for the graphic as well. I've got mastercam up and running, but now I need to learn how to use the thing, and that may take a little while as I have no training in it whatsoever, lol. That's ok though, this whole thing is a learning exercise for me so that's what I plan on doing.
| Lamont | 11-30-2006 02:57 AM |
Nice. But I'd go for something a little more flashy.. the artist in me screams!!
| Chris_Lee | 11-30-2006 09:29 AM |
[QUOTE=CryderSpeed;16160373]Hmmm, interesting approach, lots of food for thought here! Thanks for the graphic as well. I've got mastercam up and running, but now I need to learn how to use the thing, and that may take a little while as I have no training in it whatsoever, lol. That's ok though, this whole thing is a learning exercise for me so that's what I plan on doing.[/QUOTE]
Everything is a learning exercise. That's why it's so much fun.:)
I was thinking about your idea and realized that the major limiting factor is how you mount the knob to the lever. The 2 minute image is just a idea to show how to get the knob attached to the lever and still give you the ability to try different shapped knobs without having to change your mounting approach. Best of luck and let me know if you want any help.
Everything is a learning exercise. That's why it's so much fun.:)
I was thinking about your idea and realized that the major limiting factor is how you mount the knob to the lever. The 2 minute image is just a idea to show how to get the knob attached to the lever and still give you the ability to try different shapped knobs without having to change your mounting approach. Best of luck and let me know if you want any help.
| CryderSpeed | 12-04-2006 08:14 PM |
[QUOTE=Lamont;16161364]Nice. But I'd go for something a little more flashy.. the artist in me screams!![/QUOTE]
I understand fully, but my saabaru begs for understatement:p
OK, so here's where I'm at; after dealing with a weekend of non-stop crap I've wrangled some time on the rapid prototyping machine here at PCC. This does two thing for me: shows me how to import stuff to mastercam and gives all you nasioc homies an actual physical representation of the product. Also, rapid prototyping is badass:D
So, with any luck I should have something in my hot little hand by wednesday night!:banana:
I understand fully, but my saabaru begs for understatement:p
OK, so here's where I'm at; after dealing with a weekend of non-stop crap I've wrangled some time on the rapid prototyping machine here at PCC. This does two thing for me: shows me how to import stuff to mastercam and gives all you nasioc homies an actual physical representation of the product. Also, rapid prototyping is badass:D
So, with any luck I should have something in my hot little hand by wednesday night!:banana:
| bikefreax | 12-04-2006 08:27 PM |
I really like the idea with the metal insert that has the shift pattern engraved it it. I would love one of those as I would put some matching San Remo Red paint into the pattern for some color. Let me know when you have one. I have cash ready. Tired of the burning and freezing hand.
| [email�protected] | 12-04-2006 08:36 PM |
But wouldnt having the metal insert in the top exposed negate the whole reason for going to a plastic knob? isnt that going to burn just as easily as a metal knob? also. the thermal expansion of the metal to the plastic might make it pop out. you will need to capture it in there some how. how about a slight return edge on the top of the knob?
have fun with mastercam. remember to keep rapids at 5% or less. dont want to rapid right into the head!!!
Tom
have fun with mastercam. remember to keep rapids at 5% or less. dont want to rapid right into the head!!!
Tom
| nxttruck2002 | 12-04-2006 08:42 PM |
If you make one that looks like the kartboy one for cheaper, I will definitely buy one.
| Mr_Hox | 12-04-2006 09:26 PM |
[[email�protected];16205745]But wouldnt having the metal insert in the top exposed negate the whole reason for going to a plastic knob? isnt that going to burn just as easily as a metal knob?
Tom[/QUOTE]
For me, I tend to shift using the sides of the shift knob in the palm of my hand, rather than using the top part. Of course, this is just me, and if one shifts in a different matter, than yes -- it would still burn.
One thing to consider would be a possible delrin cap that can "pop" into (or attach in another method) the metal center piece. Something like a flat hemisphere that follows the lines of the rest of the sphere. This would help in multiple ways -- 1) No more burn! 2) Easy, interchangable caps that the owner can change to their liking. 3) A shift knob for both 5- and 6-speed cars. Ta-da!
Dave (Mr_Hox)
Tom[/QUOTE]
For me, I tend to shift using the sides of the shift knob in the palm of my hand, rather than using the top part. Of course, this is just me, and if one shifts in a different matter, than yes -- it would still burn.
One thing to consider would be a possible delrin cap that can "pop" into (or attach in another method) the metal center piece. Something like a flat hemisphere that follows the lines of the rest of the sphere. This would help in multiple ways -- 1) No more burn! 2) Easy, interchangable caps that the owner can change to their liking. 3) A shift knob for both 5- and 6-speed cars. Ta-da!
Dave (Mr_Hox)
| CryderSpeed | 12-05-2006 03:55 AM |
[[email�protected];16205745]But wouldnt having the metal insert in the top exposed negate the whole reason for going to a plastic knob? isnt that going to burn just as easily as a metal knob? also. the thermal expansion of the metal to the plastic might make it pop out. you will need to capture it in there some how. how about a slight return edge on the top of the knob?
have fun with mastercam. remember to keep rapids at 5% or less. dont want to rapid right into the head!!!
Tom[/QUOTE]
Actually Tom, I've asked myself these same questions regarding thermal expansion and indeed the need for a metal insert on a plastic knob. I'm not gonna lie, the stainless is definitely there for a little bling in addition to adding weight! I was thinking at least this way folks could have a nice looking, nice weighted knob and have another surface to grab while the metal gets to a decent temperature. I did design an all plastic one though, and most likely those will get prototyped and made first just for simplicity's sake. Naturally they would could less as well.
But back to the original design of dubious utility;) One crazy idea I had for mounting the stainless in the delrin was to maybe soak the steel inserts in dry ice or even liquid nitrogen to shrink them, drop them in the shifter body and let them expand into shape(omg cryotreated shift knob!) Obviously I've got some math ahead of me if I want to make [i]that[/i] work, so in the meantime I'm definitely researching other retention methods. Unfortunately christmas break will likely put a halt to my prototyping activities until january so right now I'm concentrating on turning the current vaporware all-plastic knob into a mountable prototype and if I'm lucky a CNC program to produce them. If I can pull that off, next stop, get bids on makin' the suckers!
have fun with mastercam. remember to keep rapids at 5% or less. dont want to rapid right into the head!!!
Tom[/QUOTE]
Actually Tom, I've asked myself these same questions regarding thermal expansion and indeed the need for a metal insert on a plastic knob. I'm not gonna lie, the stainless is definitely there for a little bling in addition to adding weight! I was thinking at least this way folks could have a nice looking, nice weighted knob and have another surface to grab while the metal gets to a decent temperature. I did design an all plastic one though, and most likely those will get prototyped and made first just for simplicity's sake. Naturally they would could less as well.
But back to the original design of dubious utility;) One crazy idea I had for mounting the stainless in the delrin was to maybe soak the steel inserts in dry ice or even liquid nitrogen to shrink them, drop them in the shifter body and let them expand into shape(omg cryotreated shift knob!) Obviously I've got some math ahead of me if I want to make [i]that[/i] work, so in the meantime I'm definitely researching other retention methods. Unfortunately christmas break will likely put a halt to my prototyping activities until january so right now I'm concentrating on turning the current vaporware all-plastic knob into a mountable prototype and if I'm lucky a CNC program to produce them. If I can pull that off, next stop, get bids on makin' the suckers!
| [email�protected] | 12-06-2006 12:55 AM |
[QUOTE=CryderSpeed;16209753]Actually Tom, I've asked myself these same questions regarding thermal expansion and indeed the need for a metal insert on a plastic knob. I'm not gonna lie, the stainless is definitely there for a little bling in addition to adding weight! I was thinking at least this way folks could have a nice looking, nice weighted knob and have another surface to grab while the metal gets to a decent temperature. I did design an all plastic one though, and most likely those will get prototyped and made first just for simplicity's sake. Naturally they would could less as well.
But back to the original design of dubious utility;) One crazy idea I had for mounting the stainless in the delrin was to maybe soak the steel inserts in dry ice or even liquid nitrogen to shrink them, drop them in the shifter body and let them expand into shape(omg cryotreated shift knob!) Obviously I've got some math ahead of me if I want to make [i]that[/i] work, so in the meantime I'm definitely researching other retention methods. Unfortunately christmas break will likely put a halt to my prototyping activities until january so right now I'm concentrating on turning the current vaporware all-plastic knob into a mountable prototype and if I'm lucky a CNC program to produce them. If I can pull that off, next stop, get bids on makin' the suckers![/QUOTE]
the plastic will have a higher Te than the SS part. you'd be better off heating up the knob and dropping the insert in.. best of luck.
tom
But back to the original design of dubious utility;) One crazy idea I had for mounting the stainless in the delrin was to maybe soak the steel inserts in dry ice or even liquid nitrogen to shrink them, drop them in the shifter body and let them expand into shape(omg cryotreated shift knob!) Obviously I've got some math ahead of me if I want to make [i]that[/i] work, so in the meantime I'm definitely researching other retention methods. Unfortunately christmas break will likely put a halt to my prototyping activities until january so right now I'm concentrating on turning the current vaporware all-plastic knob into a mountable prototype and if I'm lucky a CNC program to produce them. If I can pull that off, next stop, get bids on makin' the suckers![/QUOTE]
the plastic will have a higher Te than the SS part. you'd be better off heating up the knob and dropping the insert in.. best of luck.
tom
| nqwan | 12-06-2006 02:57 AM |
Why not just have the steel insert/shifter adapter go through the plastic knob to just below the top and have the top round cap screw into the top of the insert? This way the knob will be held in place vertically by the cap piece and a lip/ledge machined into the insert/adapter above the shift boot ledge. To secure the knob axially, you could machine some notches/ridges in the insert and knob to keep it in place or make the outer shape of the insert a triangle or square with a matching hole in the knob. Also, if the top cap is wider in diameter than the insert, then you can add some hex bolts to the outer edge of the cap to screw into the knob for more reinforcement and a look similar to the Momo Sphere shift knobs.
This will allow you to make plastic or metal tops while still having steel to add weight and to fully disassemble/assemble the knob without the use of any glue or special processes.
This will allow you to make plastic or metal tops while still having steel to add weight and to fully disassemble/assemble the knob without the use of any glue or special processes.
| drumr78 | 12-06-2006 06:49 AM |
make sure you leave a bigger hole in the non-threaded area in the bottom of the knob for the 6-speed reverse lockout.
| CryderSpeed | 12-07-2006 08:27 PM |
[QUOTE=drumr78;16223969]make sure you leave a bigger hole in the non-threaded area in the bottom of the knob for the 6-speed reverse lockout.[/QUOTE]
6 speed version coming soon!;)
6 speed version coming soon!;)
| WRXDriftR | 12-08-2006 12:13 AM |
you might want to edit anything regarding mass-production, sales, making them for people, and advertising.
the mods will close you down quick. dont ask me how i know.
the mods will close you down quick. dont ask me how i know.
| KAX | 12-08-2006 12:48 AM |
he can still use PMs to sell stuff though, cant he?
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