| 02 Great White | 02-28-2006 04:09 PM |
Heater Blower Problem
�
�
2002 wrx
my heater blower works only in 4th position, doesn't go on in 1st, 2nd or 3rd. :( Talked to an electrician, he said that there is a thing beside the blower motor on the passenger side, behind the glove box held in place by two little screws, has a brown connector attached to it, he said that I need to unscrew the two screws and replace that thing. He said it burned out. I took it out yesterday, and it seemed fine. It looks like credit card with a connector on the bottom side, when you take it out of the heater assembly. I don't think there is anything wrong with this thing. Any ideas?
my heater blower works only in 4th position, doesn't go on in 1st, 2nd or 3rd. :( Talked to an electrician, he said that there is a thing beside the blower motor on the passenger side, behind the glove box held in place by two little screws, has a brown connector attached to it, he said that I need to unscrew the two screws and replace that thing. He said it burned out. I took it out yesterday, and it seemed fine. It looks like credit card with a connector on the bottom side, when you take it out of the heater assembly. I don't think there is anything wrong with this thing. Any ideas?
| munkis | 02-28-2006 05:32 PM |
blower motor speed resistor, it may look fine but dollars to donuts its bad, replace it.
Jay
Jay
| Mulder | 02-28-2006 08:05 PM |
You can test it with an ohmeter, but Jay is right. If you are having those symptoms the resistor is bad.
| Spunkmeyer | 12-08-2008 05:32 PM |
Ok, my blower quit working on [B]any[/B] position. The fuses aren't blown. Does that still mean it's the resister thing? I think the motor is fine. Could it be the switch itself? It was acting funky before it quit altogether(working then not working)
Help! It's getting cold and snowy here.
Help! It's getting cold and snowy here.
| kcarpent | 12-13-2008 10:20 PM |
Hi!
I'm working on the same exact issue on a 2004 STI right now.
Unfortunately, we have different part numbers on stuff, but I can probably help a little.
You need access to a voltmeter/multimeter to do this.
Even a cheap one $20 would be good enough.
I'm working on a write up, but I'll give you what I have currently..
You can probably move the passenger seat back and flip upside down to do this without removing the glove box (removing the glove box only takes 5 min).
You'll probably see 1 wire bundle going directly into the blower motor toward the right side of the blower motor enclosure, and 1 going to the left side to the rear,(this is the blower motor resistor or blower power transistor, a little white? plastic thing) depending on if you have manual or automatic climate control.
Kelly�s Diagnostic results
My fan is not working at ANY blower motor setting.
It was intermittently working, (rarely), but when it did it was on all speeds. It would sometimes work after hitting a bump in the road. So if Iwas cold, I would just drive down a bumpy road. (Just Kidding).
First things first, in Subaru�s definition, a �manual� climate control is something that doesn�t have an �auto� setting on the blower control!! This kind of goes against my definition of a much fancier standard of what an automatic climate control is, but I accept this ; ).
In �manual� blower motor controls, you have a blower motor resistor and in �automatic� blower motor controls, you have a blower motor power transistor, in Subaru�s terminology.
Since the 2004 STI has an auto blower motor setting it has �Automatic Climate Control� and therefore a blower motor power transistor.
The reason I�m stressing this is that in the 2004 WRX/WRX STI shop manual they show the incorrect part for an STI, a WRX blower motor resistor that costs $40.00 retail vs the STI blower motor power transistor at $300.00 retail.
The correct part number for a 2004 WRX with manual climate control is
72 226 FE000 and costs $40.00 retail
The correct part number for a 2004 WRX STI is
Remove the blower motor power cable that plugs directly into the blower motor
Take the test leads fo the multimeter set for DC Volts and touch the test leads into the power connector to measure the voltage. If the voltage shows a negative value , the leads are backwards. Switch the leads and measure again. You�ll get the same answer, but without the pesky negative sign. And this doesn�t hurt the electronic system either.
On my 2004 STI the power connectors look like the letter T rotated 90 degrees to the right like __ |
On my 2004 STI the left Horizontal one is Negative, and the right vertical one is positive
This is what I found.
I�m testing with the existing blower motor power transistor in place
With accessory power on, and vent position on upper only, (defrost position decreases the values by 0.4V.)
I tested the voltage at different blower motor positions to see what I found.
Power at the blower motor harness was
Blower Motor Fan Switch Position Voltage
Off 0V (As expected)
Position Auto 11.7 � 12.1V
Position 1 4.7V
Position 2 6.5V
Position 3 9.5V
Position 4 11.6 - 12.1V
Auto and 4 appear to run directly to the fan, not going through a power transistor. The blower motor is receiving 12V on these settings, this means that for testing purposes you can run power directly from the car battery in to the blower motor and, (if you connect it properly), you won�t damage it.
Blower fan settings 1,2,3 all go through a power transistor as shown by the lower voltages on those settings.
Theoretically, blower fan setting 4 and maybe even auto should work with the resistors blown.
So if it your fan works on high speed, (blower fan setting 4) and maybe even auto the blower motor resistor could be the reason.
In my case..
The conclusions I�m making with the results that I have so far are�
Since I�m getting, voltage, I know that the fuse is good.
I don�t know if I can also say that the relays are OK. But I believe that the relays are OK.
Since the voltage is changing, I know that the fan speed switch is good.
Since the voltage is changing, I know that the blower motor power transistor is probably good also, but since there are signs of burning in the connectors so, I�m going to replace the blower motor power transistor also.
If you remove the blower motor power transistor, and retest the blower motor power harness you get 0V as you would expect.
I would say at this time it looks since we are getting variable voltage to the blower motor, and it doesn�t work, it�s probably dead.
Since the blower motor runs at 12V you can run wires directly from the battery to the blower motor, if it doesn�t run easily or at all, it�s probably dead.
Normally, they tell you to take it out of the plastic enclosure as in the old days, but I believe that there�s no need to in this case. (This is my personal speculation by looking at it.) This is something I will verify when I tear it apart.
Subaru sells the entire blower motor enclosure and motor as a single part for $300.00. There are no replaceable parts inside according to Subaru.
That is the �official� fix.
Buy the entire blower motor enclosure and replace it.
Since it doesn�t matter I�m taking mine apart and working on a more old school/ hacker approach to fix it or just replace the motor itself, or the whole enclosure for $300.00. More on that as I fix it or not,
So, do you replace it or can you go to an electric motor shop and rebuild it with new brushes?
I'm working on the same exact issue on a 2004 STI right now.
Unfortunately, we have different part numbers on stuff, but I can probably help a little.
You need access to a voltmeter/multimeter to do this.
Even a cheap one $20 would be good enough.
I'm working on a write up, but I'll give you what I have currently..
You can probably move the passenger seat back and flip upside down to do this without removing the glove box (removing the glove box only takes 5 min).
You'll probably see 1 wire bundle going directly into the blower motor toward the right side of the blower motor enclosure, and 1 going to the left side to the rear,(this is the blower motor resistor or blower power transistor, a little white? plastic thing) depending on if you have manual or automatic climate control.
Kelly�s Diagnostic results
My fan is not working at ANY blower motor setting.
It was intermittently working, (rarely), but when it did it was on all speeds. It would sometimes work after hitting a bump in the road. So if Iwas cold, I would just drive down a bumpy road. (Just Kidding).
First things first, in Subaru�s definition, a �manual� climate control is something that doesn�t have an �auto� setting on the blower control!! This kind of goes against my definition of a much fancier standard of what an automatic climate control is, but I accept this ; ).
In �manual� blower motor controls, you have a blower motor resistor and in �automatic� blower motor controls, you have a blower motor power transistor, in Subaru�s terminology.
Since the 2004 STI has an auto blower motor setting it has �Automatic Climate Control� and therefore a blower motor power transistor.
The reason I�m stressing this is that in the 2004 WRX/WRX STI shop manual they show the incorrect part for an STI, a WRX blower motor resistor that costs $40.00 retail vs the STI blower motor power transistor at $300.00 retail.
The correct part number for a 2004 WRX with manual climate control is
72 226 FE000 and costs $40.00 retail
The correct part number for a 2004 WRX STI is
Remove the blower motor power cable that plugs directly into the blower motor
Take the test leads fo the multimeter set for DC Volts and touch the test leads into the power connector to measure the voltage. If the voltage shows a negative value , the leads are backwards. Switch the leads and measure again. You�ll get the same answer, but without the pesky negative sign. And this doesn�t hurt the electronic system either.
On my 2004 STI the power connectors look like the letter T rotated 90 degrees to the right like __ |
On my 2004 STI the left Horizontal one is Negative, and the right vertical one is positive
This is what I found.
I�m testing with the existing blower motor power transistor in place
With accessory power on, and vent position on upper only, (defrost position decreases the values by 0.4V.)
I tested the voltage at different blower motor positions to see what I found.
Power at the blower motor harness was
Blower Motor Fan Switch Position Voltage
Off 0V (As expected)
Position Auto 11.7 � 12.1V
Position 1 4.7V
Position 2 6.5V
Position 3 9.5V
Position 4 11.6 - 12.1V
Auto and 4 appear to run directly to the fan, not going through a power transistor. The blower motor is receiving 12V on these settings, this means that for testing purposes you can run power directly from the car battery in to the blower motor and, (if you connect it properly), you won�t damage it.
Blower fan settings 1,2,3 all go through a power transistor as shown by the lower voltages on those settings.
Theoretically, blower fan setting 4 and maybe even auto should work with the resistors blown.
So if it your fan works on high speed, (blower fan setting 4) and maybe even auto the blower motor resistor could be the reason.
In my case..
The conclusions I�m making with the results that I have so far are�
Since I�m getting, voltage, I know that the fuse is good.
I don�t know if I can also say that the relays are OK. But I believe that the relays are OK.
Since the voltage is changing, I know that the fan speed switch is good.
Since the voltage is changing, I know that the blower motor power transistor is probably good also, but since there are signs of burning in the connectors so, I�m going to replace the blower motor power transistor also.
If you remove the blower motor power transistor, and retest the blower motor power harness you get 0V as you would expect.
I would say at this time it looks since we are getting variable voltage to the blower motor, and it doesn�t work, it�s probably dead.
Since the blower motor runs at 12V you can run wires directly from the battery to the blower motor, if it doesn�t run easily or at all, it�s probably dead.
Normally, they tell you to take it out of the plastic enclosure as in the old days, but I believe that there�s no need to in this case. (This is my personal speculation by looking at it.) This is something I will verify when I tear it apart.
Subaru sells the entire blower motor enclosure and motor as a single part for $300.00. There are no replaceable parts inside according to Subaru.
That is the �official� fix.
Buy the entire blower motor enclosure and replace it.
Since it doesn�t matter I�m taking mine apart and working on a more old school/ hacker approach to fix it or just replace the motor itself, or the whole enclosure for $300.00. More on that as I fix it or not,
So, do you replace it or can you go to an electric motor shop and rebuild it with new brushes?
| M Hindin | 01-04-2010 10:34 AM |
My 2000 legacy heater blower wouldn't work this morning at -5 degrees, at any speed setting. couldn't see to get to work. It worked on the weekend when much colder! I pulled both fuses, both good, and reset. Blower began working. What's going on? Sticky relay? where is relay? any other thoughts on why this happened?
| WRChex | 02-01-2010 05:50 AM |
My heater fan also went out today... It was working at certain rpms like explained before but now it is not working. Where is the relay and how do I reset it?
| vica153 | 02-10-2010 02:21 PM |
Fun times in the snow and then the next morning my blower isn't working. Not getting any volts at any setting. Fuses look fine.
The relay is behing the dash left of the steering wheel. I'm really hoping it just fixes itself :lol:
The relay is behing the dash left of the steering wheel. I'm really hoping it just fixes itself :lol:
| ShutterBC | 06-10-2010 08:19 AM |
Does the voltage test not work for the power transistor, and if not is there a better test? The service manual has a procedure for testing the blower resistor (described wonderfully by kcarpent). However, this procedure is not listed at all for the power transistor.
I think this is the only thread on NASIOC mentioning the HVAC power transistor for auto climate control systems. Add me to the list for funky blower behavior. :)
I think this is the only thread on NASIOC mentioning the HVAC power transistor for auto climate control systems. Add me to the list for funky blower behavior. :)
| 626Wagonizer | 07-05-2010 02:47 PM |
My blower in my 02 bugeye wagon stop blowing this morning. The ac works and climate controls work but no air comes out. I checked the fuses under the driver side and pulled every single one of them and all are fine. Now what i have read theres this relay i got to check, but i got no clue where is at and how it looks. If this is the problem how would i know the relay is bad and how much would it cost to replace it. Oh and where can i buy it? thanks guys..
| Damon1 | 07-15-2010 06:43 PM |
I have a 2007 Impreza 2.5i wagon with an automatic and my heater fan just stopped working in any position but 4. I cant find online a resistor listed for the auto. Is it the same as for the manual trans? need to get this fixed. Any suggestions? also anyone have problems asking for part info from Subaruparts.com? I emailed them asking about the resistor and am getting no response?
thanks for any help!
Damon
thanks for any help!
Damon
| 626Wagonizer | 08-10-2010 11:07 AM |
ok so i checked the resistor pack and unplugged it while the blower was on speed 4. It continue to blow but at really low speed! i kept tapping the resistor part and underneath the actual motor and it speeds up and slows down. Sometimes it just stops. Could this be a much bigger problem than the resistor itself? anyone have similar issues or ideas what my next step should be?? thanks please help!!!
| Manako | 05-26-2011 02:18 PM |
I also have the same problem as Damon.. 2007 Impreza wagon first the blower would only work on the 4th position and then the fan started making horrible noises.
I've never done DIY repair and as its getting warmer I decide I should get it fixed before I need the AC, so I call up the dealer, and have them check it out. They lead me to believe its just 1 part, even though I am emphatic about there being an issue with the fan AND the switch. The switch part came in today and I get a call that they have to replace the fan as well.
Sounds like its going to be ~400 for them to replace both the fan and the resistor, can't even seem to find the fan for sale online if I wanted it :(
I've never done DIY repair and as its getting warmer I decide I should get it fixed before I need the AC, so I call up the dealer, and have them check it out. They lead me to believe its just 1 part, even though I am emphatic about there being an issue with the fan AND the switch. The switch part came in today and I get a call that they have to replace the fan as well.
Sounds like its going to be ~400 for them to replace both the fan and the resistor, can't even seem to find the fan for sale online if I wanted it :(
| Chupacabras | 08-02-2011 05:28 PM |
Bit of a dredge, but my fan works in all the settings except #2... is it likely to be the same issue (resistor is pooched?) Thanks NASIOC...
| perds | 08-06-2011 02:12 AM |
[quote=Chupacabras;34760114]Bit of a dredge, but my fan works in all the settings except #2... is it likely to be the same issue (resistor is pooched?) Thanks NASIOC...[/quote]
Probably the blower resistor. You can check the switch for continuity first if you want.
Probably the blower resistor. You can check the switch for continuity first if you want.
| rleh22 | 10-20-2011 11:55 AM |
so it sounds like if your blower is only working on 4, replacing the blower motor, which will have new connections, should solve the problem. My bearing that the fan spins on is shot too. Makes a horrible sound when its on. Has anybody ran into that yet?
| chaser91 | 11-17-2011 03:54 PM |
I'm having the same issue with my fan. It's making so much noise all levels 1-4. Should I try to throw a little lubricant in the fan bearings?
| 04wrxsportwagon | 11-25-2011 12:41 PM |
I fixed my blower motor resistor
�
�
I had the same issue with my blower, only worked on 4. I read this thread and started at the blower resistor. Sure enough it wasnt working. I tested it with an ohm meter to be sure. There is one spot that had a soldered conection on the resistor bord. Since I was going to replace the thing anyways I scratched off a tiny amount of the coating on either side of the soldered conection and tested for continuity. Turns out that there was no conection!. I soldered a tiny piece of wire to the two ends that I had scratched and tested the resistor by simply plugging it back into my car. problem solved! blower works on all settings now, and saved 40$.:)
| 04stinugget | 12-04-2011 02:22 AM |
Can somebody please post a pic of the blower resistor. My blower quit working but the panel still lights up and selects vents and heat setting correctly. Fuses are all good as well. Just need a few pics of the resistor so I know what I'm looking for. Thanks guys
| Kreed23 | 01-12-2012 10:00 AM |
Blower issues
�
�
Found out yesterday that I seem to be having similar issues with my 2006 STI. I got in my car yesterday and started it up and I usually keep my fan on all the time and noticed that my defroster wasn't working. I turned the switch off and on again and nothing. I tried pressing the recirc button and also the AS button a few times and kept trying to turn it on and off. When I turn the fan dial on and off I can hear a relay clicking under the dash on the driver side. After I messed with it for a bit by turning it on and off it started working. The next time I got in my car and started it up it was the same thing but the time after that when I started the car it started working right away so it seems to be an intermittent issue. Anyone have any ideas on what it could be. I was reading some of the posts and it looks like it could be an issue with the resister/transistor but I'm not sure of if it is the same with an 06?... I'm assuming it would be pretty close if not the same. Any ideas on what to check?
| vica153 | 01-12-2012 08:22 PM |
When the blower doesn't work, check to see if it's getting power. If it's getting power, but not blowing, then the motor is probably bad. If it's not getting power, then the relay is probably bad.
| Kreed23 | 01-13-2012 08:10 AM |
Update
�
�
I started my car this morning and couldn't get the fan to turn on at all. I kept messing with it as I was driving and eventually it came on. I noticed that it wasn't blowing as fast as it normall would blow and when I got to work I noticed that there was a clicking noise coming from under the glove box which I'm assuming is the location of the fan. It sounds like it might be a motor going bad but I'm not sure. Sound like that's the issue?
| Kreed23 | 01-17-2012 03:04 PM |
Ongoing motor issues
�
�
I was finally able to check to see if I have any power at the connector and I am getting power to the connector that is on the front of the motor(closest to the passenger seat). It is showing up as around 14.5VDC. My question would be this - I'm assuming that the power must go through the transistor first in order to regulate the voltage that goes into the motor depending on the position of the dial for the fan. If this is the case then it would point to a bad motor, especially when it sometimes spins and doesn't other times. I am not sure what the transistor looks like or where it is located so I am not really able to check that unless someone has any more info on it.
| Lightning2.5i | 01-18-2012 10:52 AM |
I'm having a similar issue with my 06 2.5i only the blower works on 1, 3 and 4 but not on 2; I couldn't find any part # or anything for the resistor. If you do figure it out I'd be interested in knowing; I'm going to try and take mine apart this weekend...weather permitting.
| Kreed23 | 01-18-2012 12:28 PM |
Not sure about what the part number is but I have been using the diagrams that are located here to figure out what the parts and such look like and what the cost of them are. This is the one for your car:
[URL]http://parts.subarupartswarehouse.com/parts/2006/SUBARU/IMPREZA/2.5I/?siteid=214327&vehicleid=1432743§ion=HVAC[/URL]
I checked the voltage again on mine and I am fairly certain that it is the blower motor that is bad. I get 11.5 VDC with the engine off a the connector when the fan is in the fastest position and the voltage decreases as I turn the dial down until I get to the Auto position at which it jumps back up to 11.5VDC again. I am going to try and take the motor out next when I get some time and try to jump it right to the motor to see if it comes on.
Does anyone have any information on removing a blower motor from an 06 STI? Any info or pictures would be good.
Thanks.
[URL]http://parts.subarupartswarehouse.com/parts/2006/SUBARU/IMPREZA/2.5I/?siteid=214327&vehicleid=1432743§ion=HVAC[/URL]
I checked the voltage again on mine and I am fairly certain that it is the blower motor that is bad. I get 11.5 VDC with the engine off a the connector when the fan is in the fastest position and the voltage decreases as I turn the dial down until I get to the Auto position at which it jumps back up to 11.5VDC again. I am going to try and take the motor out next when I get some time and try to jump it right to the motor to see if it comes on.
Does anyone have any information on removing a blower motor from an 06 STI? Any info or pictures would be good.
Thanks.
| LittleBlueWagon | 02-27-2012 12:44 PM |
[quote=Manako;34204318]I also have the same problem as Damon.. 2007 Impreza wagon first the blower would only work on the 4th position and then the fan started making horrible noises.
I've never done DIY repair and as its getting warmer I decide I should get it fixed before I need the AC, so I call up the dealer, and have them check it out. They lead me to believe its just 1 part, even though I am emphatic about there being an issue with the fan AND the switch. The switch part came in today and I get a call that they have to replace the fan as well.
Sounds like its going to be ~400 for them to replace both the fan and the resistor, can't even seem to find the fan for sale online if I wanted it :([/quote]
I also have a 07 Wagon and my Fan was making crazy noises but sometimes would go away if I hit a bump or something. It did this for like 2 months but it did not bug me because it was not to big of a deal. Now it just stoped working all together and I cant defrost my window so I need to get this fixed ASAP:grumpy: but for $400 huhh....:unamused:
I've never done DIY repair and as its getting warmer I decide I should get it fixed before I need the AC, so I call up the dealer, and have them check it out. They lead me to believe its just 1 part, even though I am emphatic about there being an issue with the fan AND the switch. The switch part came in today and I get a call that they have to replace the fan as well.
Sounds like its going to be ~400 for them to replace both the fan and the resistor, can't even seem to find the fan for sale online if I wanted it :([/quote]
I also have a 07 Wagon and my Fan was making crazy noises but sometimes would go away if I hit a bump or something. It did this for like 2 months but it did not bug me because it was not to big of a deal. Now it just stoped working all together and I cant defrost my window so I need to get this fixed ASAP:grumpy: but for $400 huhh....:unamused:
| ThaGriff | 02-27-2012 11:57 PM |
Just something to check before you take it in. I have an 03 WRX, not very familiar with the other models. The relay for the heater blower is to the left of the in cabin fuse box. I pulled mine out and it had actually melted...$40 part from Auto Zone, local dealership....quoted $450. Not to say that this will be your problem, but something to check before you take it in.
| weldingfiend | 11-11-2012 02:54 PM |
Does anyone have pictures of how to get to the resistor? I have the same problem as a few of you (nothing on 0-3, full power on 4) and am going to pop it out to see if replacing it fixes my problem.
| Zaya | 11-11-2012 03:34 PM |
It's the resistor for sure, happens a lot in the cars we fix I doubt it's any different for any other models.
| wumfpirate | 11-16-2012 01:12 PM |
Thanks to all who posted in this thread
Another burned out resistor here
[IMG]http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb435/wumfpirate/2012-11-16_06-57-15_246-resistor.jpg[/IMG]
Another burned out resistor here
[IMG]http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb435/wumfpirate/2012-11-16_06-57-15_246-resistor.jpg[/IMG]
| GottaREX | 12-31-2012 01:05 PM |
[quote=Kreed23;36103632]Found out yesterday that I seem to be having similar issues with my 2006 STI. I got in my car yesterday and started it up and I usually keep my fan on all the time and noticed that my defroster wasn't working. I turned the switch off and on again and nothing. I tried pressing the recirc button and also the AS button a few times and kept trying to turn it on and off. When I turn the fan dial on and off I can hear a relay clicking under the dash on the driver side. After I messed with it for a bit by turning it on and off it started working. The next time I got in my car and started it up it was the same thing but the time after that when I started the car it started working right away so it seems to be an intermittent issue. Anyone have any ideas on what it could be. I was reading some of the posts and it looks like it could be an issue with the resister/transistor but I'm not sure of if it is the same with an 06?... I'm assuming it would be pretty close if not the same. Any ideas on what to check?[/quote]
Did you ever get your blower motor fixed. I'm having pretty much the same problems with my car but it's an older 97 OBS. Just happened for the first time this weekend. Everything was working fine until I went to the gas station to gas up. Turned the car off, got gas then after I turned the car back on, the blower no longer works in all positions. It happens a lot now but only after I start the car. Sometimes I start the car and everything works fine and sometimes the blower doesn't work at all. It's getting cold down here too and I need to fix since I usually have my heater on the car most of the time.
Did you ever get your blower motor fixed. I'm having pretty much the same problems with my car but it's an older 97 OBS. Just happened for the first time this weekend. Everything was working fine until I went to the gas station to gas up. Turned the car off, got gas then after I turned the car back on, the blower no longer works in all positions. It happens a lot now but only after I start the car. Sometimes I start the car and everything works fine and sometimes the blower doesn't work at all. It's getting cold down here too and I need to fix since I usually have my heater on the car most of the time.
| Itsawagon37 | 08-19-2013 11:20 AM |
I had this problem a few months back, blower resistor board was burnt out. Now the fan is popping fuses, since I replaced it. lovely thing is that the motor is an assembly and cost $227 at the dealer. ugh.
| slickpmc | 01-31-2014 07:50 AM |
2012 Subaru ImprezzaSport Lim- heat/AC Fan makiing noises
�
�
Hi, new to this site.
Seems to be of great help so far. Our Subaru is making odd noises when we turn the heat up. Monitoring it to see what happens. Out of country, so no warranty available. Will possibly have to take in or order parts myself and take in. Might even have to repair myself. Heater still works in all respects but making awful noises for a car with only 25K miles on it.
Do not know at this point if it is the fan, motor or? This site can help me troubleshoot. Thanks in advance
Seems to be of great help so far. Our Subaru is making odd noises when we turn the heat up. Monitoring it to see what happens. Out of country, so no warranty available. Will possibly have to take in or order parts myself and take in. Might even have to repair myself. Heater still works in all respects but making awful noises for a car with only 25K miles on it.
Do not know at this point if it is the fan, motor or? This site can help me troubleshoot. Thanks in advance
| vaugghann | 01-31-2014 08:15 AM |
i have the same problem but only works on 1! shop said i need need ac compressor
| KHunter25 | 01-31-2014 08:19 AM |
Had this problem with mine not to long ago. Same issues: Started off 1&2 speed didn't work then all speeds didnt work. Ended up being my resister. Went to my local oreilly's and picked this up. Its all good now and I am nice and warm. Good luck everyone.
[url]http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=blower+motor+resistor&year=2005&make=Subaru&model=Impreza&vi=1430731[/url]
[url]http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=blower+motor+resistor&year=2005&make=Subaru&model=Impreza&vi=1430731[/url]
| dpreetam | 03-09-2014 10:01 AM |
Had the same problem. Replaced resistor, worked well for 2 weeks, then it went again. Replaced resistor again, won't blow on any speed. Disconnect resistor and Fan, still blowing fuses. Replaced switch. Still blowing fuses. trace wiring, all wiring looks good. Its a 2008 2.5i. Its driving me crazy. Can't even use my car this winter.
| shamrock 05 | 03-10-2014 11:44 AM |
Mine screams when I start the car in the morning but then the noise goes away. I will be replacing it once it warms up a bit. I just wonder how hard it is to remove. I think its under the pass side of the dash.
| Itsawagon37 | 03-22-2014 09:50 PM |
i had mine changed out in under an hour. Its easy.
| waddisme | 07-04-2014 10:37 AM |
Great thread. $35 from RockAuto and I am good to go.
| 2007imprza | 10-20-2014 07:19 PM |
blower motor problems
�
�
i have a 2007 impreza i put a new oe blower motor resistor in an it worked for a couple of hours an it blew again just works on setting 4 dont want to take it to dealer anybody think it could be blower motor pulling to any amps an blowing it the car does havea remote starter in if that matter
| Itsawagon37 | 10-20-2014 07:22 PM |
Sounds like high amp draw. Could be the motor itself. Unless you wired the remote start to the blower circuit for power that shouldn't matter.
Sent from my XT1080 using NASIOC mobile app
Sent from my XT1080 using NASIOC mobile app
| 2007imprza | 10-20-2014 08:00 PM |
[quote=2007imprza;42669781]i have a 2007 impreza i put a new oe blower motor resistor in an it worked for a couple of hours an it blew again just works on setting 4 dont want to take it to dealer anybody think it could be blower motor pulling to any amps an blowing it the car does havea remote starter in if that matter[/quote]
my wife said the blower motor is surging on high now so that what amkes me think its the motor that took the resistor out
my wife said the blower motor is surging on high now so that what amkes me think its the motor that took the resistor out
| DCsubes | 10-20-2014 08:30 PM |
2007 WRX wagon blower motor OUT
�
�
I have a 2007 WRX wagon (119K) and been having an issue with the blower motor inconsistently working and worsening over 6,000 miles. In 2007, I'm told Subaru made the blower motor an integral part of the assembly requiring the whole system to be replaced. I've looked online and found an OEM part #72223FE020 for as low as $200, $100 used but the donor car had 90K so prob not worth it if mine went out at 108K. It's simple enough to do yourself, but I have been quoted at 2.5 hours labor so I'll probably do it myself. I'll upload pictures when I'm done!
If someone has a used assembly with less than 50K, I'd buy it...
If someone has a used assembly with less than 50K, I'd buy it...
| Itsawagon37 | 10-21-2014 08:05 PM |
It can be done in about an hour. It is a one piece part since 03.
Sent from my XT1080 using NASIOC mobile app
Sent from my XT1080 using NASIOC mobile app
| 2007imprza | 10-21-2014 08:10 PM |
[quote=2007imprza;42669942]my wife said the blower motor is surging on high now so that what amkes me think its the motor that took the resistor out[/quote]
im on my 2nd resistor i didn't hear any thing different with the motor the only thing i did notice is that when i out the new resistor in it barely blew air on 1 or 2 setting
im on my 2nd resistor i didn't hear any thing different with the motor the only thing i did notice is that when i out the new resistor in it barely blew air on 1 or 2 setting
| aerosaaber | 10-21-2014 08:33 PM |
I had a bad connection on the wiring harness for the resistor in my old Saab.
it would heat up and melt the harness plastic separating 2 connections and then BAM resistor = kaput
it would heat up and melt the harness plastic separating 2 connections and then BAM resistor = kaput
| 2007imprza | 10-21-2014 09:30 PM |
[quote=2007imprza;42669942]my wife said the blower motor is surging on high now so that what amkes me think its the motor that took the resistor out[/quote]
i checked the wiring no burnt wires i am thinking that the blower motor isnt blowing enough to keep the resistor cool
i checked the wiring no burnt wires i am thinking that the blower motor isnt blowing enough to keep the resistor cool
| Itsawagon37 | 10-22-2014 07:35 AM |
Use a multimeter. Unplug the fan power connector and use a multimeter in the 20amp setting. And put it on the pins in the connector. If you are on the 4th speed you should get a amp reading and the fan should work. If it is anywhere near 20amp the motor has high (mechanical)resistance causing a higher amp draw.(I think the fan is on a 15amp circuit)
Now switch speeds and see where the amp draw goes. It should change with the settings. Switch to voltage now and do the same test at the fan. The highest speed should be 12v and it should go down from there.
There is a write up on this on the first page of this thread.
Now switch speeds and see where the amp draw goes. It should change with the settings. Switch to voltage now and do the same test at the fan. The highest speed should be 12v and it should go down from there.
There is a write up on this on the first page of this thread.
| Scooter426 | 10-28-2014 10:37 AM |
Blower Motor Failure and how I fixed it
�
�
Hi all,
New to this forum. Just got a 2006 Subi Impreza Outback Sport and it came with a failed Blower Motor/Fan. I did follow the troubleshooting guide in the forum and it is now fixed.
Here is a breakdown of what I found:
1. Blower motor did not work on any setting (not the the resistor).
2. I disconnected the blower motor elec plug and checked it for voltages on different settings. It appeared normal.
3. I applied 12v to the fan directly and got no response initially. I gave the motor and light tap with a rubber mallet and it started moving VERY slowly. It would stop after about 3 secs.
4. Replaced fan assembly (not cheap, $285 at dealer).
It now works!
New to this forum. Just got a 2006 Subi Impreza Outback Sport and it came with a failed Blower Motor/Fan. I did follow the troubleshooting guide in the forum and it is now fixed.
Here is a breakdown of what I found:
1. Blower motor did not work on any setting (not the the resistor).
2. I disconnected the blower motor elec plug and checked it for voltages on different settings. It appeared normal.
3. I applied 12v to the fan directly and got no response initially. I gave the motor and light tap with a rubber mallet and it started moving VERY slowly. It would stop after about 3 secs.
4. Replaced fan assembly (not cheap, $285 at dealer).
It now works!
| Itsawagon37 | 10-28-2014 10:40 AM |
Yeah its not cheap at the dealer.
Glad the testing worked out. And you were able to fix it.
Sent from my XT1080 using NASIOC mobile app
Glad the testing worked out. And you were able to fix it.
Sent from my XT1080 using NASIOC mobile app
| 2007imprza | 10-30-2014 08:57 PM |
I just check the blower motor with an amp clamp when it first starts its about 9 amps an than it sounds like it hits a metal to metal spot an it goes up to 10 or 11 amps when i tried another new resistor it gets really hot that you cant touch it an the amp is only bout 9 to 10 Im thinking its a blower motor i just dont want to spend 300 dollars for it mit to be fixed
| Itsawagon37 | 10-31-2014 07:36 AM |
What hits a metal to metal spot? The fan itself? If that's what hits something it sounds like the motor is seized. Resisters get hot when in use because they are adding resistance(heat is the by product.) Check around at local salvage yards. You should be able to use units from 03-07. I have a 03 unit in my 04. I got it off eBay.
Sent from my XT1080 using NASIOC mobile app
Sent from my XT1080 using NASIOC mobile app
| Itsawagon37 | 10-31-2014 07:41 AM |
[url]http://m.ebay.com/itm/301367664159?nav=SEARCH[/url] this states 02-04 however if you remove your glovebox you will have a clear view of the unit. There are many fan only sales, but you can see the bottom of your blower unit on the passenger side. You could contact this seller also to see if they know I it fits. But this was just a quick search.
Sent from my XT1080 using NASIOC mobile app
Sent from my XT1080 using NASIOC mobile app
| z | 05-18-2015 03:01 PM |
Just want to bump this thread and add some info.
Originally my blower stopped working, but was getting voltage at the connector that plugs into the motor itself. Easy enough, voltage was getting all the way to the motor but the motor wouldn't spin, so I just replaced the motor and the blower started working again.
*It did start to spin on occasion if you hit a bump in the road or tapped on the bottom of the motor a little so that may explain some peoples intermittent blower problems. when I pulled it out and hooked it directly to the battery, it would spin if you turned it upside down or jiggled it a little so there was obviously something loose inside the DC motor itself. $40 for a used motor on eBay.
But, like an idiot... i put it back together to test, but didn't mount the transistor back into the box, where the air flows over the resistor/transistor and cools it.
(BTW - this is the auto a/c version for STi that Kcarpent mentions in Post# 5, and that uses part number 73533FE000 which is between $175-200+ online)
After about an hour, the blower cut out again but this time I realized i cooked the transistor. It was dangling down from the box and the heat sink was literally burning hot. After a quick search, I somehow stumbled across an Acura thread but it uses a very similar transistor and turns out the Thermal Cutoff was blown.
You can test by reading the resistance between the 2 points as shown in this thread:
[url]http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=506999[/url]
If it reads Open, it's toast.
I took the easy fix and just soldered a jumper wire across and called it a day. Works fine again. You can also replace the thermal cutoff with a new one but based on the discussion in that rsx thread, I didn't bother.
Cost $0 instead of $175 for new unit :)
keywords: repair 73533FE000 subaru sti transistor
Originally my blower stopped working, but was getting voltage at the connector that plugs into the motor itself. Easy enough, voltage was getting all the way to the motor but the motor wouldn't spin, so I just replaced the motor and the blower started working again.
*It did start to spin on occasion if you hit a bump in the road or tapped on the bottom of the motor a little so that may explain some peoples intermittent blower problems. when I pulled it out and hooked it directly to the battery, it would spin if you turned it upside down or jiggled it a little so there was obviously something loose inside the DC motor itself. $40 for a used motor on eBay.
But, like an idiot... i put it back together to test, but didn't mount the transistor back into the box, where the air flows over the resistor/transistor and cools it.
(BTW - this is the auto a/c version for STi that Kcarpent mentions in Post# 5, and that uses part number 73533FE000 which is between $175-200+ online)
After about an hour, the blower cut out again but this time I realized i cooked the transistor. It was dangling down from the box and the heat sink was literally burning hot. After a quick search, I somehow stumbled across an Acura thread but it uses a very similar transistor and turns out the Thermal Cutoff was blown.
You can test by reading the resistance between the 2 points as shown in this thread:
[url]http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=506999[/url]
If it reads Open, it's toast.
I took the easy fix and just soldered a jumper wire across and called it a day. Works fine again. You can also replace the thermal cutoff with a new one but based on the discussion in that rsx thread, I didn't bother.
Cost $0 instead of $175 for new unit :)
keywords: repair 73533FE000 subaru sti transistor
| z | 05-18-2015 06:36 PM |
Going to post a screenshot from that rsx thread just in case the pics ever go dead.
Also a pic of my handiwork.
[img]http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd320/zavigm/Screen%20Shot%202015-05-18%20at%206.33.55%20PM_zpsy4u9rhcs.png[/img]
Jumper wire is the red wire on the right.
[img]http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd320/zavigm/IMG_6689_zpskoiqxfwe.jpg[/img]
Also a pic of my handiwork.
[img]http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd320/zavigm/Screen%20Shot%202015-05-18%20at%206.33.55%20PM_zpsy4u9rhcs.png[/img]
Jumper wire is the red wire on the right.
[img]http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd320/zavigm/IMG_6689_zpskoiqxfwe.jpg[/img]
| subie_newbie13 | 05-19-2015 12:32 AM |
Doesn't that mean you don't have any thermal protection now?
| Itsawagon37 | 05-19-2015 05:28 AM |
Yeah bypassing that could end with your dash being on fire... I'm all about saving money cause $175 is a lot, but I wouldn't bypass something that seems designed to fail for a reason and keeps my dash fire free.
If you like that risk id buy a Fiero GT, least then you can say its a manufacturer flaw.
If you like that risk id buy a Fiero GT, least then you can say its a manufacturer flaw.
| z | 05-19-2015 03:44 PM |
[quote=subie_newbie13;43433355]Doesn't that mean you don't have any thermal protection now?[/quote]
Yes, Please do so at your own risk. You could :diaf:
[quote=Itsawagon37;43433587]Yeah bypassing that could end with your dash being on fire... I'm all about saving money cause $175 is a lot, but I wouldn't bypass something that seems designed to fail for a reason and keeps my dash fire free.
If you like that risk id buy a Fiero GT, least then you can say its a manufacturer flaw.[/quote]
lol, no thanks. :diaf:
The same discussion occurs in the rsx thread. This answer satisfied me enough to say "meh".
cn: the fuses will burn out.
[quote=Jay]
[QUOTE=kstokes]Guys, I really really don't want to see anybody jumpering across the thermal cutoff. It's not there to protect the MOSFET from damage -- it's there to ensure that the car doesn't burn down...[/quote]
kstokes, simply not so. The thermal cutoff is in series with the gate. Under-hood fuse 12 protects the fan motor circuit.
Think it through. If the MOSFET shorts what happens? The same thing as when the climate control turns the MOSFET full on--the fan runs full speed. If the MOSFET fails open what happens? The fan won't run. There's no danger to your car either way since those are normal operating modes for the MOSFET anyway. Remember that the MOSFET can still fail (short usually) with the TC still OK. The result is the fan runs full blast all the time. When the TC fails gate drive from the climate control isn't possible and the fan won't turn on.
If you can get the right thermal cutoff easily and want to go to the extra trouble of replacing it, rather than bypassing it, I have no argument with that; but the thermal cutoff bypass repair is easier and just as effective and just as safe.[/QUOTE]
Yes, Please do so at your own risk. You could :diaf:
[quote=Itsawagon37;43433587]Yeah bypassing that could end with your dash being on fire... I'm all about saving money cause $175 is a lot, but I wouldn't bypass something that seems designed to fail for a reason and keeps my dash fire free.
If you like that risk id buy a Fiero GT, least then you can say its a manufacturer flaw.[/quote]
lol, no thanks. :diaf:
The same discussion occurs in the rsx thread. This answer satisfied me enough to say "meh".
cn: the fuses will burn out.
[quote=Jay]
[QUOTE=kstokes]Guys, I really really don't want to see anybody jumpering across the thermal cutoff. It's not there to protect the MOSFET from damage -- it's there to ensure that the car doesn't burn down...[/quote]
kstokes, simply not so. The thermal cutoff is in series with the gate. Under-hood fuse 12 protects the fan motor circuit.
Think it through. If the MOSFET shorts what happens? The same thing as when the climate control turns the MOSFET full on--the fan runs full speed. If the MOSFET fails open what happens? The fan won't run. There's no danger to your car either way since those are normal operating modes for the MOSFET anyway. Remember that the MOSFET can still fail (short usually) with the TC still OK. The result is the fan runs full blast all the time. When the TC fails gate drive from the climate control isn't possible and the fan won't turn on.
If you can get the right thermal cutoff easily and want to go to the extra trouble of replacing it, rather than bypassing it, I have no argument with that; but the thermal cutoff bypass repair is easier and just as effective and just as safe.[/QUOTE]
| Itsawagon37 | 05-19-2015 08:03 PM |
Or it gets hotter and hotter and never burns out and then your dash does but your car. It wasn't designed for the purpose your intending...but hey, your car in the end.
| hinjjnb | 05-19-2015 11:29 PM |
You can test it with an ohmeter, but Jay is right. If you are having those symptoms the resistor is bad. [img]http://financehotela.com/yellow/images/82.gif[/img][img]http://loanwebfast.com/green/images/42.gif[/img]
Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét