| burnin4 | 02-17-2007 02:27 PM |
car trailers?
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I'm thinking about buying a car trailer in the near future. I wanted to see what everyone is using. I need something simple to haul my car to the track, lightweight, open, preferable aluminum. the towing capacity of my truck is 4500lbs, and my sti weights around 3250.
Any suggestions please? I'd like to have something simple and inexpensive, but I wanna make sure I buy the right thing the first time around. Thanks!
mods, please move my thread if this is not the most appropriate forum :)
I like this featherlite
[IMG]http://www.fthr.com/trailerimages/3110/3110-curbside.jpg[/IMG]
Any suggestions please? I'd like to have something simple and inexpensive, but I wanna make sure I buy the right thing the first time around. Thanks!
mods, please move my thread if this is not the most appropriate forum :)
I like this featherlite
[IMG]http://www.fthr.com/trailerimages/3110/3110-curbside.jpg[/IMG]
| crystalhelix | 02-17-2007 02:37 PM |
I used a 17foot econo-trailer open deck steel trailer to tow my car from pittsburgh to topeka, it worked great, probably the shortest possible trailer you could tow a STi with. Borrowed it from a friend for $100 fee, lol. In a year or two I am looking at getting my own, but I need a self-owned tow vehicle first. I used an excursion to tow the car to topeka.
What kind of truck are you towing with?
What kind of truck are you towing with?
| cooleyjb | 02-17-2007 04:19 PM |
5500 pounds towing capacity isn't much at all. I probably wouldn't tow an STi with that low of a capacity.
What is the weight of the trailer plus some of the extra stuff you will have on it. Without trying I could see getting things up to 5000 lbs plus very quickly.
What is the weight of the trailer plus some of the extra stuff you will have on it. Without trying I could see getting things up to 5000 lbs plus very quickly.
| Turbopit | 02-17-2007 04:21 PM |
What truck? engine? brakes? Weight of truck?
| RallyCat66 | 02-17-2007 04:54 PM |
+1 on a bigger truck. 5,500 lbs is not much of a towing capacity and an STi will be pushing what the truck is capable of.
As for trailers. I have a Carmate 18'. The type with the full wooden plank bed. Heavy (2,000lbs roughly) but solid, indestructible, and relatively cheap. I chose that design over the "ramp" style so I could haul anything rather than just cars. It's had everything from lawn tractors to 6,000 lbs isolation tables (the platforms you mount vibration sensitive equipment onto) on it.
Aluminum trailers are nice, but pricey. If you go that route, get a good one that is fully welded - I've heard horror stories about aluminum trailers literally falling apart after a couple of years.
Avoid surge brakes -- they are horrible. Get good electric brakes and a good controller in the tow vehicle.
Bottom line is get yourself a good towing setup. It pays dividends to have a nice rig and trailer rather than trying to go cheap.
Tim
As for trailers. I have a Carmate 18'. The type with the full wooden plank bed. Heavy (2,000lbs roughly) but solid, indestructible, and relatively cheap. I chose that design over the "ramp" style so I could haul anything rather than just cars. It's had everything from lawn tractors to 6,000 lbs isolation tables (the platforms you mount vibration sensitive equipment onto) on it.
Aluminum trailers are nice, but pricey. If you go that route, get a good one that is fully welded - I've heard horror stories about aluminum trailers literally falling apart after a couple of years.
Avoid surge brakes -- they are horrible. Get good electric brakes and a good controller in the tow vehicle.
Bottom line is get yourself a good towing setup. It pays dividends to have a nice rig and trailer rather than trying to go cheap.
Tim
| thechickencow | 02-17-2007 05:06 PM |
Randy zimmer would be laughing at you guys - the truck will probably work but definitely won't be as safe as is possible or optimal.
The aluminum trailers get much more expensive, but since you've got a low towing capacity you'll probably need one.
+1 on teh electronic brakes too.
Jay
The aluminum trailers get much more expensive, but since you've got a low towing capacity you'll probably need one.
+1 on teh electronic brakes too.
Jay
| sachilles | 02-17-2007 06:16 PM |
If you are going to tow with that truck, I light trailer is key. Brakes on the trailer are very important along with the controller installed in your truck. Make sure your transmission can handle it, ie install a tranny cooler if you don't have one already.
Keep in mind the tow capacity is including the trailer and anything else you might be carrying. Obviously, your brakes on the truck should be in good shape.
Keep in mind the tow capacity is including the trailer and anything else you might be carrying. Obviously, your brakes on the truck should be in good shape.
| randy zimmer | 02-17-2007 06:37 PM |
[QUOTE=thechickencow;17088938]Randy zimmer would be laughing at you guys [/QUOTE]
I am.
rz
I am.
rz
| burnin4 | 02-17-2007 08:19 PM |
thanks for all of the feedback! I have an H3, towing capacity is 5500lbs. I towed an sti 8hr's with an extremly heavy steel trailer and it did just fine. I only want the trailer to tow my sti to the local tracks, and an occassional road trip.
unfortunately the H3 is leased for 1 more year, than I'm turning it in and getting something better for towing. It's my wife's truck, I drive a lgt everyday :D.
any other brands or makes of trailers recomended? aside from featherlite? thanks!
unfortunately the H3 is leased for 1 more year, than I'm turning it in and getting something better for towing. It's my wife's truck, I drive a lgt everyday :D.
any other brands or makes of trailers recomended? aside from featherlite? thanks!
| akuhner | 02-17-2007 10:03 PM |
[QUOTE=burnin4;17090028]unfortunately the H3 is leased for 1 more year, than I'm turning it in and getting something better for towing. [/QUOTE]
Please tell us the H3 was HER choice! Those things are so freaking useless! Other than the towing capacity, my stupid Forester has more utility than an H3!
Sorry for getting off topic, I just have a burning hatred for useless trucks (if you can call an H3 that!)... trucks are only good for commercial stuff, and towing big toys :devil:
[QUOTE=burnin4;17090028]I towed an sti 8hr's with an extremly heavy steel trailer and it did just fine. I only want the trailer to tow my sti to the local tracks, and an occassional road trip. [/QUOTE]
The distance you plan on towing is 100% irrelevant to the setup you need to be safe. The same accident can happen in the first hour of your trip that can happen on the 10th hour, even if you were staying on local roads vs. going highway speeds it won't change your needs. If you are going so far as to buy a brand new trailer and (eventually) get a real truck for towing, plan all of it as if you are going to be driving cross country to hit some sweet tracks!
Please tell us the H3 was HER choice! Those things are so freaking useless! Other than the towing capacity, my stupid Forester has more utility than an H3!
Sorry for getting off topic, I just have a burning hatred for useless trucks (if you can call an H3 that!)... trucks are only good for commercial stuff, and towing big toys :devil:
[QUOTE=burnin4;17090028]I towed an sti 8hr's with an extremly heavy steel trailer and it did just fine. I only want the trailer to tow my sti to the local tracks, and an occassional road trip. [/QUOTE]
The distance you plan on towing is 100% irrelevant to the setup you need to be safe. The same accident can happen in the first hour of your trip that can happen on the 10th hour, even if you were staying on local roads vs. going highway speeds it won't change your needs. If you are going so far as to buy a brand new trailer and (eventually) get a real truck for towing, plan all of it as if you are going to be driving cross country to hit some sweet tracks!
| burnin4 | 02-17-2007 10:40 PM |
^ wow, thanks :rolleyes: . yes the h3 was her choice, and at the time the only thing I needed to tow was my waverunner. btw, as much as i love teh fugly forester, it will absolutely never compete in ride comfort, off road abilities, and cool factor :p
what kind of manufacturers should I consider? thanks!
what kind of manufacturers should I consider? thanks!
| Paisan | 02-18-2007 04:06 AM |
H3 = rebadged trailblazer at best.
Anyways, I've been towing for about 15-16 years and here are my suggestions:
Tow Vehicle: Get a tow vehicle that will tow roughly 25-30% more than the most you'll carry. You want that factor of safety built in there. I went from towing my ~5000lb loaded car trailer with my Trooper (towing capacity of 6k) to towing it with my Nissan Armada (towing capacity 9k) and it's like night and day, with the trailer back there now, you barely notice it and the safety factor is there big time.
Trailer: I went with a wooden deck utility flatbed so I could tow the car and other things. If I were to do it again, I'd probably go with a more car-oriented one with ramps on each side rather than the heavier flat-decked one I have now. For the H3, I'd suggest a light aluminum one to keep the weight down.
-mike
Anyways, I've been towing for about 15-16 years and here are my suggestions:
Tow Vehicle: Get a tow vehicle that will tow roughly 25-30% more than the most you'll carry. You want that factor of safety built in there. I went from towing my ~5000lb loaded car trailer with my Trooper (towing capacity of 6k) to towing it with my Nissan Armada (towing capacity 9k) and it's like night and day, with the trailer back there now, you barely notice it and the safety factor is there big time.
Trailer: I went with a wooden deck utility flatbed so I could tow the car and other things. If I were to do it again, I'd probably go with a more car-oriented one with ramps on each side rather than the heavier flat-decked one I have now. For the H3, I'd suggest a light aluminum one to keep the weight down.
-mike
| RallyCat66 | 02-18-2007 08:55 AM |
I had a Tahoe (5.7L V8) which was strong enough, but you really noticed that you were hauling a car behind you. Cross winds and braking could get kind of hairy. Recently got an F-250 Supercab 4x4 with the 6.8L V10 - huge difference. With that beast, you hardly notice a car behind you.
But, for best long distance, I have to give the thumbs up to a friend's GMC 2500 Turbo Diesel. Did a run out to Nebraska (24 hours each way) straight through and absolutely loved driving that thing. Smooth, easy to drive, and never once even though about wagging the trailer (having a long vehicle that is substantially larger than the load you are hauling is key).
And yes, you can get away with towing with cars/station wagons, but it really is a tiring affair (you spend a lot of time correcting little wags to keep the trailer from driving the car). Once towed from Vermont to Ohio with a Peugeot 505 Turbo Diesel with an R5 Renault on a single axle trailer. That wasn't fun and as you get older, it's not something you look forward to doing. Especially after watching another friend hauling a Volvo 244 behind a Volvo wagon get a huge swing started on the interstate once. Thing wagged so violently that he car shifted on the trailer and ended up against the trailer's fender. How he managed to save it, I'll never know.
Tim
But, for best long distance, I have to give the thumbs up to a friend's GMC 2500 Turbo Diesel. Did a run out to Nebraska (24 hours each way) straight through and absolutely loved driving that thing. Smooth, easy to drive, and never once even though about wagging the trailer (having a long vehicle that is substantially larger than the load you are hauling is key).
And yes, you can get away with towing with cars/station wagons, but it really is a tiring affair (you spend a lot of time correcting little wags to keep the trailer from driving the car). Once towed from Vermont to Ohio with a Peugeot 505 Turbo Diesel with an R5 Renault on a single axle trailer. That wasn't fun and as you get older, it's not something you look forward to doing. Especially after watching another friend hauling a Volvo 244 behind a Volvo wagon get a huge swing started on the interstate once. Thing wagged so violently that he car shifted on the trailer and ended up against the trailer's fender. How he managed to save it, I'll never know.
Tim
| KC | 02-18-2007 09:03 AM |
H3=Colorado=5 cyl, right?
The maximum tongue weight of the H3 is 400 lbs. [QUOTE]Tongue Weight is the portion of a trailer's total weight that bears down on the trailer hitch. It typically runs from 10-15 percent of total trailer weight on standard hitches and can be as much as 25 percent on 5th-wheel applications. The amount of tongue weight depends on the design of your trailer and, more importantly, how you load it. Tongue weight in itself isn't what gives the stability to a rig, but rather the location of a trailer's center of gravity forward of the trailer axle that does it.[/QUOTE]
Doing the math... 5500 lbs x 10% = 550. That exceeds the tongue weight by 150lbs. You'd have to find a sturdy dual axle aluminum trailer that weighs less than 700-800 lbs too make the max tongue weight.
When towing at max capacity, exceeding max tongue weight is suited for short trips (ie: house to water with a boat in a few miles.. like max 10-15 miles...my own personal opinion of course.)
Doing long trips, not so much capability to be found.
I had a 2002 Tahoe... and towed by WRX wagon full of gear and RX8 on a 2500lb trailer with no issues to Topeka every year (1500mi one way) and numerous ProSolos from MA. No issues. Nice and sturdy and never got out of control.
--kC
The maximum tongue weight of the H3 is 400 lbs. [QUOTE]Tongue Weight is the portion of a trailer's total weight that bears down on the trailer hitch. It typically runs from 10-15 percent of total trailer weight on standard hitches and can be as much as 25 percent on 5th-wheel applications. The amount of tongue weight depends on the design of your trailer and, more importantly, how you load it. Tongue weight in itself isn't what gives the stability to a rig, but rather the location of a trailer's center of gravity forward of the trailer axle that does it.[/QUOTE]
Doing the math... 5500 lbs x 10% = 550. That exceeds the tongue weight by 150lbs. You'd have to find a sturdy dual axle aluminum trailer that weighs less than 700-800 lbs too make the max tongue weight.
When towing at max capacity, exceeding max tongue weight is suited for short trips (ie: house to water with a boat in a few miles.. like max 10-15 miles...my own personal opinion of course.)
Doing long trips, not so much capability to be found.
I had a 2002 Tahoe... and towed by WRX wagon full of gear and RX8 on a 2500lb trailer with no issues to Topeka every year (1500mi one way) and numerous ProSolos from MA. No issues. Nice and sturdy and never got out of control.
--kC
| jcroy66 | 02-18-2007 09:16 AM |
+bazillion on getting a more capable truck. Honestly, my suggestion is to:
1) Make some friends. Preferably friends with tow vehicles.
2) Just drive the STi to the events until you buy a new truck next year. If something happens this year that you need trailered home, politely ask a favor from one of your friends in #1.
As for trailers, dual-axle electric brakes FTW!
And we know from first-hand experience what RallyCat is talking about with issues with some aluminum trailers. Coming back from Peru 2 years ago, there was a chunk of retread in the center lane. Blocked in on either side, couldn't change lanes. Truck (F-150) straddled the retread and cleared it just fine. The trailer didn't. Turns out the front axle of the trailer ripped entirely out off the trailer. We actually didn't even realize it, as the weight of the car kept it in place. We were only about 10 minutes from home at that point. But after the car came off the trailer and we were taking the trailer back to the U-Store-It, something seemed weird. Phil had me go back and sit on the trailer and watch as we drove slowly through the U-Store-It's parking lot. And all of a sudden, I realized what was going on. When we slowed, the axle kept rolling forward all on its own. When we accelerated, it rolled backwards again (wrt to the rest of the trailer). All that was still holding it to the trailer were the brake cables on one side! The rear axle wasn't ripped off (or else we probably would have lost both axles on the way there!), but the welds were clearly fatigued and about 75% "broken". A pothole in the road might have been enough to rip the rear axle off too. Upon inspection of the pathetic method of attaching the axles to the trailer, I'm only surprised it didn't happen sooner.
A local collision repair shop did an awesome job not just fixing the damage, but doing some major reinforcement so that it won't happen again.
1) Make some friends. Preferably friends with tow vehicles.
2) Just drive the STi to the events until you buy a new truck next year. If something happens this year that you need trailered home, politely ask a favor from one of your friends in #1.
As for trailers, dual-axle electric brakes FTW!
And we know from first-hand experience what RallyCat is talking about with issues with some aluminum trailers. Coming back from Peru 2 years ago, there was a chunk of retread in the center lane. Blocked in on either side, couldn't change lanes. Truck (F-150) straddled the retread and cleared it just fine. The trailer didn't. Turns out the front axle of the trailer ripped entirely out off the trailer. We actually didn't even realize it, as the weight of the car kept it in place. We were only about 10 minutes from home at that point. But after the car came off the trailer and we were taking the trailer back to the U-Store-It, something seemed weird. Phil had me go back and sit on the trailer and watch as we drove slowly through the U-Store-It's parking lot. And all of a sudden, I realized what was going on. When we slowed, the axle kept rolling forward all on its own. When we accelerated, it rolled backwards again (wrt to the rest of the trailer). All that was still holding it to the trailer were the brake cables on one side! The rear axle wasn't ripped off (or else we probably would have lost both axles on the way there!), but the welds were clearly fatigued and about 75% "broken". A pothole in the road might have been enough to rip the rear axle off too. Upon inspection of the pathetic method of attaching the axles to the trailer, I'm only surprised it didn't happen sooner.
A local collision repair shop did an awesome job not just fixing the damage, but doing some major reinforcement so that it won't happen again.
| zeeto | 02-18-2007 09:52 AM |
Just remember to factor in the weight of any gear you'll be bringing along. I picked up my 06 Cummins Ram about a year ago mainly for towing my offroad rig around. I have yet to tow the WRX around, but I will be this summer, and I already know the Ram won't even know that is there. I used to tow with my Disco which had a 6k rating and I hated it.
Pretty much all the suggestions people have made are great. Even though you can tow 5.5k, that doesn't mean it's going to stop great. Make sure you get dual ebrake axles and a brake controller to dial them in with. I'd recommend the Odyssey made by Valley, and you can normally get plug in pig tails dependant on the make of your truck.
Your best bet is to find a trailer builder in your area and go talk to them about what you need out of the trailer, and they should be able to get you setup.
Pretty much all the suggestions people have made are great. Even though you can tow 5.5k, that doesn't mean it's going to stop great. Make sure you get dual ebrake axles and a brake controller to dial them in with. I'd recommend the Odyssey made by Valley, and you can normally get plug in pig tails dependant on the make of your truck.
Your best bet is to find a trailer builder in your area and go talk to them about what you need out of the trailer, and they should be able to get you setup.
| burnin4 | 02-18-2007 09:56 AM |
good lord!!! thank you for everyone's opinions about getting a better towing vehicle. I ALREADY KNOW THIS :lol: .
for the love of god, can someone just please read my posts and answer my questions!!!
All I want to know is which trailer to buy :confused: . Manufacturers? I want something lightweight, electric brakes, dual axle, etc. So far, the featherlite is the leading candidate.
the H3 is leased, and under warranty for the entire duration. I towed an sti on a heavy steel trailer for 8hr's and it did fine, 70mph the entire time no problems. I dont plan to keep this H3, I will be buying something like the armada next year. thanks!
for the love of god, can someone just please read my posts and answer my questions!!!
All I want to know is which trailer to buy :confused: . Manufacturers? I want something lightweight, electric brakes, dual axle, etc. So far, the featherlite is the leading candidate.
the H3 is leased, and under warranty for the entire duration. I towed an sti on a heavy steel trailer for 8hr's and it did fine, 70mph the entire time no problems. I dont plan to keep this H3, I will be buying something like the armada next year. thanks!
| randy zimmer | 02-18-2007 10:16 AM |
Check out Trailex.
[url]http://www.trailex.com/[/url]
All you have to do is mention trailers and it turns into a "who's dick is bigger" contest.
Happens every time.
[url]http://www.trailex.com/[/url]
All you have to do is mention trailers and it turns into a "who's dick is bigger" contest.
Happens every time.
| burnin4 | 02-18-2007 10:23 AM |
haha, thanks! I've been looking at some of their trailers, good stuff.
| KC | 02-18-2007 10:43 AM |
[QUOTE=randy zimmer;17093208]Check out Trailex.
[url]http://www.trailex.com/[/url]
All you have to do is mention trailers and it turns into a "who's dick is bigger" contest.
Happens every time.[/QUOTE]
Randy, do you advocate running a greater tongue weight than the tow vehicle can handle? Exceeding the GVWR?
It's not a who's dick is bigger contest... it's a safety factor. It looks as if the OP is going to go forward with it anyways, so, whatever. We can only help to educate that it may not be the safest thing around.
Where does the OP read that the max is 5500 lbs? I have only found 4500 lbs...
[url]http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/hummer-h3-1105-hummer-h3-review-h3-review/index.htm[/url]
[url]http://www.edmunds.com/new/2007/hummer/h3/100761192/specs.html[/url]
Max payload is 1150 lbs. That includes the tongue weight. So when you back off the 500ish lbs of the possible tongue weight, that's only another 650lbs... 2 people, around 300-400lbs right there... then that only allows another 200-300 lbs for gear.
How much will it take to convince you not to use this as a tow vehicle for your STi and trailer? [I]It's not safe.
[/I]
To me, the data is there, it's not safe. You're running at the limit of safe operation of the vehicle. It's not about my dick being bigger, at all, even tho it is. ;)
--kC
[url]http://www.trailex.com/[/url]
All you have to do is mention trailers and it turns into a "who's dick is bigger" contest.
Happens every time.[/QUOTE]
Randy, do you advocate running a greater tongue weight than the tow vehicle can handle? Exceeding the GVWR?
It's not a who's dick is bigger contest... it's a safety factor. It looks as if the OP is going to go forward with it anyways, so, whatever. We can only help to educate that it may not be the safest thing around.
Where does the OP read that the max is 5500 lbs? I have only found 4500 lbs...
[url]http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/hummer-h3-1105-hummer-h3-review-h3-review/index.htm[/url]
[url]http://www.edmunds.com/new/2007/hummer/h3/100761192/specs.html[/url]
Max payload is 1150 lbs. That includes the tongue weight. So when you back off the 500ish lbs of the possible tongue weight, that's only another 650lbs... 2 people, around 300-400lbs right there... then that only allows another 200-300 lbs for gear.
How much will it take to convince you not to use this as a tow vehicle for your STi and trailer? [I]It's not safe.
[/I]
To me, the data is there, it's not safe. You're running at the limit of safe operation of the vehicle. It's not about my dick being bigger, at all, even tho it is. ;)
--kC
| cooleyjb | 02-18-2007 11:25 AM |
[QUOTE=randy zimmer;17093208]
All you have to do is mention trailers and it turns into a "who's dick is bigger" contest.
Happens every time.[/QUOTE]
Wow you are really being helpful then. It seems like you might know somehting about this but are acting a bit childish. Thanks for contributing a lot of nothing with your comments.
You might be an engineer who's done lots of studies on this and have something to contribute that is better than, "Well I've towed hundreds of miles at/near/above the recommended tow weight of a vehicle and never had an accident." But unless you do why bother us with you bitterness.
All you have to do is mention trailers and it turns into a "who's dick is bigger" contest.
Happens every time.[/QUOTE]
Wow you are really being helpful then. It seems like you might know somehting about this but are acting a bit childish. Thanks for contributing a lot of nothing with your comments.
You might be an engineer who's done lots of studies on this and have something to contribute that is better than, "Well I've towed hundreds of miles at/near/above the recommended tow weight of a vehicle and never had an accident." But unless you do why bother us with you bitterness.
| PhilC | 02-18-2007 11:56 AM |
Our trailer is a Worthington aluminum. We bought it used and got a decent deal on it but as Jen mentioned we've had more than our share of problems with it and I most definitely cannot recommend it. I know that Jason tows with a FeatherLite and other than the cost it seems to be a great trailer that is very well constructed. If I had to do it over I'd probably spend the extra bucks and buy the FeatherLite.
Things our trailer has that I really hate. Swing up, hinged driver side fender. The hinge had been replaced before we bought it and I've replaced since again. Having the swing up fender on a fairly narrow trailer basically means it is almost impossible to load and unload by yourself. Removable fenders FTW. And Jen already mentioned how the axels were attached.
If you're thinking of buying a used trailer get it inspected first.
My personal opinion would be that I don't like a trailer with a fold up rear ramp, I'd rather have the slide in ramps.
Things our trailer has that I really hate. Swing up, hinged driver side fender. The hinge had been replaced before we bought it and I've replaced since again. Having the swing up fender on a fairly narrow trailer basically means it is almost impossible to load and unload by yourself. Removable fenders FTW. And Jen already mentioned how the axels were attached.
If you're thinking of buying a used trailer get it inspected first.
My personal opinion would be that I don't like a trailer with a fold up rear ramp, I'd rather have the slide in ramps.
| randy zimmer | 02-18-2007 12:31 PM |
[QUOTE=KC;17093353]Randy, do you advocate running a greater tongue weight than the tow vehicle can handle...?--kC[/QUOTE]
If that's what it takes to get it to tow straight, yes.
What does this number you worship represent?
Capacity of the frame, rear springs, driveline, cooling?
I have no problem modifying the tow car to handle what I want to do with it.
Really no different that what you guys do with your cars.
They are designed by the factory to do something.
Is that configuration sacred?
Using this mantra, changing a swaybar, wheel size or shock on your Subaru is unsafe.
FYI, from the Trailex website...
[url]http://www.trailex.com/photos/tn/OT_LightweightTh.jpg[/url]
If that's what it takes to get it to tow straight, yes.
What does this number you worship represent?
Capacity of the frame, rear springs, driveline, cooling?
I have no problem modifying the tow car to handle what I want to do with it.
Really no different that what you guys do with your cars.
They are designed by the factory to do something.
Is that configuration sacred?
Using this mantra, changing a swaybar, wheel size or shock on your Subaru is unsafe.
FYI, from the Trailex website...
[url]http://www.trailex.com/photos/tn/OT_LightweightTh.jpg[/url]
| randy zimmer | 02-18-2007 12:34 PM |
[QUOTE=cooleyjb;17093604]Wow you are really being helpful then.[/QUOTE]
At least I gave the website of the best Alum Trailer mfg. out there.
I answered what was asked.
Because I also added a (true) comment, I am childish.
At least I gave the website of the best Alum Trailer mfg. out there.
I answered what was asked.
Because I also added a (true) comment, I am childish.
| Impala SS AutoXer | 02-18-2007 12:45 PM |
[url]http://www.kwikload.com/[/url]
Have one, love it. Hauls my Impala just fine (4300 lb car), and the one time the WRX was on the trailer I really did hardly even know it was there.
Would also strongly emphasize that the H3 isn't enough vehicle to tow an STI on any trailer safely...
Have one, love it. Hauls my Impala just fine (4300 lb car), and the one time the WRX was on the trailer I really did hardly even know it was there.
Would also strongly emphasize that the H3 isn't enough vehicle to tow an STI on any trailer safely...
| zeeto | 02-18-2007 01:39 PM |
[quote=burnin4;17093136]for the love of god, can someone just please read my posts and answer my questions!!!
All I want to know is which trailer to buy :confused: . Manufacturers? I want something lightweight, electric brakes, dual axle, etc. So far, the featherlite is the leading candidate.[/quote]
[quote=zeeto;17093117]Your best bet is to find a trailer builder in your area and go talk to them about what you need out of the trailer, and they should be able to get you setup.[/quote]
Like I said, any reputable builder can suggest and then build one right to your specs...
All I want to know is which trailer to buy :confused: . Manufacturers? I want something lightweight, electric brakes, dual axle, etc. So far, the featherlite is the leading candidate.[/quote]
[quote=zeeto;17093117]Your best bet is to find a trailer builder in your area and go talk to them about what you need out of the trailer, and they should be able to get you setup.[/quote]
Like I said, any reputable builder can suggest and then build one right to your specs...
| Paisan | 02-18-2007 01:54 PM |
[QUOTE=KC;17092978]H3=Colorado=5 cyl, right?
[/QUOTE]
Right, I was wrong in saying Trailblazer, which makes matters worse.
-mike
[/QUOTE]
Right, I was wrong in saying Trailblazer, which makes matters worse.
-mike
| Paisan | 02-18-2007 02:03 PM |
[QUOTE=randy zimmer;17093939]If that's what it takes to get it to tow straight, yes.
What does this number you worship represent?
Capacity of the frame, rear springs, driveline, cooling?
I have no problem modifying the tow car to handle what I want to do with it.
Really no different that what you guys do with your cars.
They are designed by the factory to do something.
Is that configuration sacred?
Using this mantra, changing a swaybar, wheel size or shock on your Subaru is unsafe.
FYI, from the Trailex website...
[url]http://www.trailex.com/photos/tn/OT_LightweightTh.jpg[/url][/QUOTE]
Just an FYI, if you are overweight, and get into an accident, your insurance will likely NOT COVER the accident. So take that into consideration. Even if the accident isn't your won fault. Not to mention, everyone who tows knows you should leave 20-30% leeway from the rated towing to what you are actually towing.
-mike
What does this number you worship represent?
Capacity of the frame, rear springs, driveline, cooling?
I have no problem modifying the tow car to handle what I want to do with it.
Really no different that what you guys do with your cars.
They are designed by the factory to do something.
Is that configuration sacred?
Using this mantra, changing a swaybar, wheel size or shock on your Subaru is unsafe.
FYI, from the Trailex website...
[url]http://www.trailex.com/photos/tn/OT_LightweightTh.jpg[/url][/QUOTE]
Just an FYI, if you are overweight, and get into an accident, your insurance will likely NOT COVER the accident. So take that into consideration. Even if the accident isn't your won fault. Not to mention, everyone who tows knows you should leave 20-30% leeway from the rated towing to what you are actually towing.
-mike
| KC | 02-18-2007 02:08 PM |
[QUOTE=randy zimmer;17093939]If that's what it takes to get it to tow straight, yes.
What does this number you worship represent?
Capacity of the frame, rear springs, driveline, cooling?
I have no problem modifying the tow car to handle what I want to do with it.
Really no different that what you guys do with your cars.
[/QUOTE]Wow, what's up your jock today Randy???
You know, I can't find anywhere in this post that the OP said he was willing to modify his H3 to tow, and you didn't mention anything about the necessity to do so. Did I miss where you said that?
I'm going by the stock numbers as published and released by the manufacturer. Do you tow with 5 cyl H3? No. Do I? No.
And using that picture is LAUGHABLE to represent your point. Jeez, a trailer with a sub 2000lb car on it. Way to go.
--kC
What does this number you worship represent?
Capacity of the frame, rear springs, driveline, cooling?
I have no problem modifying the tow car to handle what I want to do with it.
Really no different that what you guys do with your cars.
[/QUOTE]Wow, what's up your jock today Randy???
You know, I can't find anywhere in this post that the OP said he was willing to modify his H3 to tow, and you didn't mention anything about the necessity to do so. Did I miss where you said that?
I'm going by the stock numbers as published and released by the manufacturer. Do you tow with 5 cyl H3? No. Do I? No.
And using that picture is LAUGHABLE to represent your point. Jeez, a trailer with a sub 2000lb car on it. Way to go.
--kC
| KC | 02-18-2007 02:10 PM |
[QUOTE=Paisan;17094563]Just an FYI, if you are overweight, and get into an accident, your insurance will likely NOT COVER the accident. So take that into consideration. Even if the accident isn't your won fault. Not to mention, everyone who tows knows you should leave 20-30% leeway from the rated towing to what you are actually towing.
-mike[/QUOTE]
2nded. I had that earlier, but deleted it after reading the OP doesn't care and just wants to get a trailer for his H3, who cares about anything, or anyone else.
Looks like he only wants to have people like Randy support his bad decision.
-mike[/QUOTE]
2nded. I had that earlier, but deleted it after reading the OP doesn't care and just wants to get a trailer for his H3, who cares about anything, or anyone else.
Looks like he only wants to have people like Randy support his bad decision.
| Paisan | 02-18-2007 02:10 PM |
Think about the downsides of having a not up to the task tow vehicle...
Spend $500 for track time for 2 days.
Spend $200 for hotel for 2 nights.
Spend $300 for fuel
Spend $200 for food
Possibly take a day off work to go to event.
Then you breakdown or get into an accident along the way, you've now wasted the above + towing expenses (AAA and other auto-clubs don't cover trailer towing).
Glad to hear you will upgrade.
Also on the brake controller make sure not to get one of the cheap ones that just works off the brake-light switch, these will cause you to kill your brakes on the trailer by over-braking it. Get an inursa (SP?) based brake controller as they are much better.
-mike
Spend $500 for track time for 2 days.
Spend $200 for hotel for 2 nights.
Spend $300 for fuel
Spend $200 for food
Possibly take a day off work to go to event.
Then you breakdown or get into an accident along the way, you've now wasted the above + towing expenses (AAA and other auto-clubs don't cover trailer towing).
Glad to hear you will upgrade.
Also on the brake controller make sure not to get one of the cheap ones that just works off the brake-light switch, these will cause you to kill your brakes on the trailer by over-braking it. Get an inursa (SP?) based brake controller as they are much better.
-mike
| KC | 02-18-2007 02:16 PM |
Love the Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller in my Titan.
It's nice that the truck is set up from the factory to just plug a controller in to the existing wiring. :)
--kC
It's nice that the truck is set up from the factory to just plug a controller in to the existing wiring. :)
--kC
| burnin4 | 02-18-2007 03:02 PM |
^ i might get a used titan. will that be enough to satisfy everyone? :lol:
sheesh...the h3 is not a great towing vehicle, but after driving it 8hrs+ on a road trip pulling my sti it did a GREAT job. It's not the most ideal vehicle, but it will do just fine taking my 700hp sti the the local dragstrip :D .
sheesh...the h3 is not a great towing vehicle, but after driving it 8hrs+ on a road trip pulling my sti it did a GREAT job. It's not the most ideal vehicle, but it will do just fine taking my 700hp sti the the local dragstrip :D .
| cooleyjb | 02-18-2007 03:58 PM |
[QUOTE=randy zimmer;17093956]At least I gave the website of the best Alum Trailer mfg. out there.
I answered what was asked.
Because I also added a (true) comment, I am childish.[/QUOTE]
Not one person got into a pissing contest as you said. Everyone came in on the side of safety. But if you don't care about safety that's fine. But don't act like a punk. Lots of people actually listen to what you say. When you start implying that vehicle tow capacity means nothing you aren't being helpful. Just because you do it doesn't mean it's the right thing to do.
I answered what was asked.
Because I also added a (true) comment, I am childish.[/QUOTE]
Not one person got into a pissing contest as you said. Everyone came in on the side of safety. But if you don't care about safety that's fine. But don't act like a punk. Lots of people actually listen to what you say. When you start implying that vehicle tow capacity means nothing you aren't being helpful. Just because you do it doesn't mean it's the right thing to do.
| IT Swift | 02-18-2007 04:18 PM |
[quote=burnin4;17091016] cool factor[/quote]
Cool factor? An H3? Thats laughable.
Cool factor? An H3? Thats laughable.
| EJS | 02-18-2007 04:40 PM |
Featherlite trailers are nice, prob the best you can get. Too bad you're over east, I could get you a great deal on one. But like everyone has said, the tow rig is really important.
| thechickencow | 02-18-2007 06:47 PM |
I'll say this because I'm sure at least Randy will have my back...
Its less safe to be driving the car on the track than towing it with your H3. If that rated weight is 5500# and you're under that with trailer, car, gear then you're fine.
Randy may be on one extreme, but the people that think you need a F250 diesel or something that big to tow a car the distance he's looking to tow may just be the other extreme.
Its less safe to be driving the car on the track than towing it with your H3. If that rated weight is 5500# and you're under that with trailer, car, gear then you're fine.
Randy may be on one extreme, but the people that think you need a F250 diesel or something that big to tow a car the distance he's looking to tow may just be the other extreme.
| AlmostFast | 02-18-2007 07:01 PM |
Would something like this do the trick for towing an sti?
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/clorax/DSCN0995.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v467/clorax/DSCN0995.jpg[/IMG]
| cooleyjb | 02-18-2007 07:03 PM |
Just so everyone has the correct stats on an H3 from the hummer site
Tow Capacity (Maximum) 4500
GVWR Maximum 5850
Tow Capacity (Maximum) 4500
GVWR Maximum 5850
| burnin4 | 02-18-2007 07:09 PM |
[QUOTE=IT Swift;17095562]Cool factor? An H3? Thats laughable.[/QUOTE]
:huh: coming from a guy that drives a swift :lol:
[IMG]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/30/Suzuki_Swift_blue_vr.jpg/250px-[/IMG]
:huh: coming from a guy that drives a swift :lol:
[IMG]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/30/Suzuki_Swift_blue_vr.jpg/250px-[/IMG]
| KC | 02-18-2007 07:15 PM |
[QUOTE=cooleyjb;17096613]Just so everyone has the correct stats on an H3 from the hummer site
Tow Capacity (Maximum) 4500
GVWR Maximum 5850[/QUOTE]
Post 20. I tried that already.
Tow Capacity (Maximum) 4500
GVWR Maximum 5850[/QUOTE]
Post 20. I tried that already.
| KC | 02-18-2007 07:27 PM |
[QUOTE=thechickencow;17096508]
Randy may be on one extreme, but the people that think you need a F250 diesel or something that big to tow a car the distance he's looking to tow may just be the other extreme.[/QUOTE]Agreed. Many are just advocating something a bit more safe... an F250, Chevy HD, etc.... all overkill on that end too. I don't think anyone has said anything like that in this thread either... just to get something safer than the H3 for towing longish distances.
Perfect example I thought of earlier...
The max rating is perfect for the guy that puts his boat in the water in the spring and takes it out in the fall, from the boat ramp thats in town. Anything farther/longer than that, and you're taking unnecessary risks.
--kC
Randy may be on one extreme, but the people that think you need a F250 diesel or something that big to tow a car the distance he's looking to tow may just be the other extreme.[/QUOTE]Agreed. Many are just advocating something a bit more safe... an F250, Chevy HD, etc.... all overkill on that end too. I don't think anyone has said anything like that in this thread either... just to get something safer than the H3 for towing longish distances.
Perfect example I thought of earlier...
The max rating is perfect for the guy that puts his boat in the water in the spring and takes it out in the fall, from the boat ramp thats in town. Anything farther/longer than that, and you're taking unnecessary risks.
--kC
| Paisan | 02-18-2007 07:41 PM |
[QUOTE=KC;17094647]Love the Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller in my Titan.
It's nice that the truck is set up from the factory to just plug a controller in to the existing wiring. :)
--kC[/QUOTE]
That's the one I have, the Tekonsha Prodigy, was trying to think of the name. Plug and play in my Armada too.
-mike
It's nice that the truck is set up from the factory to just plug a controller in to the existing wiring. :)
--kC[/QUOTE]
That's the one I have, the Tekonsha Prodigy, was trying to think of the name. Plug and play in my Armada too.
-mike
| Paisan | 02-18-2007 07:46 PM |
Oh yeah also to go along with KCs ideas of having a comfortable margin, think of it this was as well. The easier and stressfree your towing to the track, the more mental/physical you can put into the track event itself. I know that towing with the armada definitely has made the getting to/from the track far less stressful than with something right at the border of the tow vehicle capacity.
Any V8 SUV or Pickup should work for him.
-mike
Any V8 SUV or Pickup should work for him.
-mike
| crystalhelix | 02-18-2007 10:22 PM |
[QUOTE=Paisan;17094613]
Then you breakdown or get into an accident along the way, you've now wasted the above + towing expenses (AAA and other auto-clubs don't cover trailer towing).
-mike[/QUOTE]
You can get AAA service for trailers and RV's but it costs more. It's called the AAA Plus Plan IIRC, you also get more stuff included, 5 gallons of gas X times a year if you run out of gas, stuff like that. It's worth it even if you tow a tire trailer so it doesn't get left behind.
just wanted to let you know..
Then you breakdown or get into an accident along the way, you've now wasted the above + towing expenses (AAA and other auto-clubs don't cover trailer towing).
-mike[/QUOTE]
You can get AAA service for trailers and RV's but it costs more. It's called the AAA Plus Plan IIRC, you also get more stuff included, 5 gallons of gas X times a year if you run out of gas, stuff like that. It's worth it even if you tow a tire trailer so it doesn't get left behind.
just wanted to let you know..
| Paisan | 02-19-2007 01:33 AM |
[QUOTE=crystalhelix;17098267]You can get AAA service for trailers and RV's but it costs more. It's called the AAA Plus Plan IIRC, you also get more stuff included, 5 gallons of gas X times a year if you run out of gas, stuff like that. It's worth it even if you tow a tire trailer so it doesn't get left behind.
just wanted to let you know..[/QUOTE]
I have AAA+ and it doesn't cover trailers. I use my Sea-Tow account which i have trailer road-side assistance for.
-mike
just wanted to let you know..[/QUOTE]
I have AAA+ and it doesn't cover trailers. I use my Sea-Tow account which i have trailer road-side assistance for.
-mike
| jcroy66 | 02-19-2007 06:47 AM |
"AAA+ RV" is an extra $33/year on top of AAA+ and covers RVs, motorcycles, motorcycle trailers, etc. The sheet I have doesn't mention car haulers, but hopefully AAA+ RV would cover a car hauler if it covers RVs and motorcycle trailers *shrug*.
| randy zimmer | 02-19-2007 11:13 AM |
AAA Premier RV does.
Blew a head gasket on a 4-cam (imagine that) and he came with a flatbed with a trailer hitch ball on the back.
I taught him how to double-clutch around a bad syncro and he helped push the car and then the trailer into my garage.
Blew a head gasket on a 4-cam (imagine that) and he came with a flatbed with a trailer hitch ball on the back.
I taught him how to double-clutch around a bad syncro and he helped push the car and then the trailer into my garage.
| Paisan | 02-19-2007 03:34 PM |
[QUOTE=randy zimmer;17102673]AAA Premier RV does.
Blew a head gasket on a 4-cam (imagine that) and he came with a flatbed with a trailer hitch ball on the back.
I taught him how to double-clutch around a bad syncro and he helped push the car and then the trailer into my garage.[/QUOTE]
Ah ha, so that's it AAA Premier RV. I'll look into that. Although I need Seatow for the Cigarette boat anyway, so the trailer add on isn't much.
-mike
Blew a head gasket on a 4-cam (imagine that) and he came with a flatbed with a trailer hitch ball on the back.
I taught him how to double-clutch around a bad syncro and he helped push the car and then the trailer into my garage.[/QUOTE]
Ah ha, so that's it AAA Premier RV. I'll look into that. Although I need Seatow for the Cigarette boat anyway, so the trailer add on isn't much.
-mike
| WRXedUSA | 02-19-2007 04:08 PM |
I *might* have a 18' Vintage enclosed trailer(equipped for racing) for sale in Maine for the $6000 range.
| flycaster | 02-19-2007 07:42 PM |
Burnin - You want an [U]enclosed[/U] aluminum trailer with a lockable side door, trust me. Look for a 20-24' used cargo trailer with a ramp back. You can leave all your stuff in it, not in your car where it spill and/or get stolen. Been there, done that.
We picked up one last year, brand new, for all our karts: 24x8, $5.5K. Shop around, they're out there.
We picked up one last year, brand new, for all our karts: 24x8, $5.5K. Shop around, they're out there.
| imhuge | 02-20-2007 02:16 PM |
I know it is not really a trailer but how about a flatbed towtruck? I picked one up a few summers ago for $2000. It was a little worn-out but it ran and the bed functioned fine. The large toolboxes on the sides were enough for me to put tools and the typical spare parts. If I crashed or blew something I could still winch the car up and go home easily. There was not a lot of passenger room but for the price I could not beat it. The truck had a moderate sized engine driven compressor and I added a small generator so I could use any tool I wanted. I have a CDL so I didn't have any trouble with that but I am sure there are some non-CDL ones too.
I arranged to park at a parking lot in a neighboring industrial park and it only cost me a pizza lunch for the 20 employees at the company. After two years the owner got interested in seeing me load the car from time to time and offered to sponser me (and I bought a truck/trailer). Now I am using a military CUCV and a stripped-down skidsteer trailer I got from a construction company at liquidation sale.
I arranged to park at a parking lot in a neighboring industrial park and it only cost me a pizza lunch for the 20 employees at the company. After two years the owner got interested in seeing me load the car from time to time and offered to sponser me (and I bought a truck/trailer). Now I am using a military CUCV and a stripped-down skidsteer trailer I got from a construction company at liquidation sale.
| KC | 02-20-2007 02:27 PM |
[QUOTE=flycaster;17108813]Burnin - You want an [U]enclosed[/U] aluminum trailer with a lockable side door, trust me. Look for a 20-24' used cargo trailer with a ramp back. You can leave all your stuff in it, not in your car where it spill and/or get stolen. Been there, done that.
We picked up one last year, brand new, for all our karts: 24x8, $5.5K. Shop around, they're out there.[/QUOTE]
With teh wind resistance, he's going to REALLY need to upgrade out of the aichtree.
--kC
We picked up one last year, brand new, for all our karts: 24x8, $5.5K. Shop around, they're out there.[/QUOTE]
With teh wind resistance, he's going to REALLY need to upgrade out of the aichtree.
--kC
| flycaster | 02-20-2007 05:09 PM |
[quote=KC;17116744]With teh wind resistance, he's going to REALLY need to upgrade out of the aichtree.[/quote]
If all he's doing is towing it down the highway to a few local tracks, no problem. If he lived in Colorado and had to take it "over the hill" regularly, you're quite right. :lol:
If all he's doing is towing it down the highway to a few local tracks, no problem. If he lived in Colorado and had to take it "over the hill" regularly, you're quite right. :lol:
| Pacobeagle | 02-20-2007 05:55 PM |
For camparison, I drove my 2003 extended cab Chevy Silverado 1500 with a 4.8L V-8(no grunt) from West Palm Beach, Florida to Topeka, Kansas last year towing every bit of twin axle all steel(diamondplate) trailer and my 2002 WRX sedan(weighing 2950lbs).
Now, I would have liked to been able to use the trailer brakes. It would have made the trip a lot better. Still, the truck handled it just fine. I added a trans. cooler to cope with the trailering stresses though.
Jose
***Btw, it will be for sale very soon. 119k miles and all services done to include Iridium spark plugs, tranny fluid/filter, rear diff. flush, brake flush, coolant flush, and tire rotation.***
Now, I would have liked to been able to use the trailer brakes. It would have made the trip a lot better. Still, the truck handled it just fine. I added a trans. cooler to cope with the trailering stresses though.
Jose
***Btw, it will be for sale very soon. 119k miles and all services done to include Iridium spark plugs, tranny fluid/filter, rear diff. flush, brake flush, coolant flush, and tire rotation.***
| Paisan | 02-20-2007 09:56 PM |
[QUOTE=Pacobeagle1;17119538]For camparison, I drove my 2003 extended cab Chevy Silverado 1500 with a 4.8L V-8(no grunt) from West Palm Beach, Florida to Topeka, Kansas last year towing every bit of twin axle all steel(diamondplate) trailer and my 2002 WRX sedan(weighing 2950lbs).
Now, I would have liked to been able to use the trailer brakes. It would have made the trip a lot better. Still, the truck handled it just fine. I added a trans. cooler to cope with the trailering stresses though.
Jose
***Btw, it will be for sale very soon. 119k miles and all services done to include Iridium spark plugs, tranny fluid/filter, rear diff. flush, brake flush, coolant flush, and tire rotation.***[/QUOTE]
Yeah it's not just the engine, it's the chassis that's important. But generally if you have a V8 engine in the truck, the rest is up to the task.
-mike
Now, I would have liked to been able to use the trailer brakes. It would have made the trip a lot better. Still, the truck handled it just fine. I added a trans. cooler to cope with the trailering stresses though.
Jose
***Btw, it will be for sale very soon. 119k miles and all services done to include Iridium spark plugs, tranny fluid/filter, rear diff. flush, brake flush, coolant flush, and tire rotation.***[/QUOTE]
Yeah it's not just the engine, it's the chassis that's important. But generally if you have a V8 engine in the truck, the rest is up to the task.
-mike
| burnin4 | 02-20-2007 10:21 PM |
[QUOTE=flycaster;17108813]Burnin - You want an [U]enclosed[/U] aluminum trailer with a lockable side door, trust me. Look for a 20-24' used cargo trailer with a ramp back. You can leave all your stuff in it, not in your car where it spill and/or get stolen. Been there, done that.
We picked up one last year, brand new, for all our karts: 24x8, $5.5K. Shop around, they're out there.[/QUOTE]
man, I'd love to have an enclosed trailer, but I only want something for local track/daily trips. I have never broken anything at the track, however I feel as if my luck will eventually run dry. traditionally, I have always been against trailering a car to the track, I've always liked the idea of driving to the track round trip.
According to all of nasioc, my weak dismal H3 is not competent enough to do anything :rolleyes: much less pull an enclosed trailer. the only reason I want a simple lightweight trailer is because I was truly impressed with my h3 after trailering an sti for 8hr's from Orlando to Mobile, (zero mountains or hills). That 8hr trip was after driving 7 straight hours to Orlando to pick it up, 15hr's straight. I was so concerned with how my h3 would do, I was never impressed with the power of it and didnt think it was up to the task. After the 15hr round trip I was proud,, so now I want a f'ing light weight trailer :lol:
We picked up one last year, brand new, for all our karts: 24x8, $5.5K. Shop around, they're out there.[/QUOTE]
man, I'd love to have an enclosed trailer, but I only want something for local track/daily trips. I have never broken anything at the track, however I feel as if my luck will eventually run dry. traditionally, I have always been against trailering a car to the track, I've always liked the idea of driving to the track round trip.
According to all of nasioc, my weak dismal H3 is not competent enough to do anything :rolleyes: much less pull an enclosed trailer. the only reason I want a simple lightweight trailer is because I was truly impressed with my h3 after trailering an sti for 8hr's from Orlando to Mobile, (zero mountains or hills). That 8hr trip was after driving 7 straight hours to Orlando to pick it up, 15hr's straight. I was so concerned with how my h3 would do, I was never impressed with the power of it and didnt think it was up to the task. After the 15hr round trip I was proud,, so now I want a f'ing light weight trailer :lol:
| shikataganai | 02-20-2007 11:02 PM |
one 8h trip that you made does not make for safety. go back and do the math with the proper [b]4500 lb[/b] figure that has been posted multiple times in this thread, and then see if a trailer that meets this new, more stringent requirement even exists, and at what price.
| Turbopit | 02-20-2007 11:07 PM |
[QUOTE=burnin4;17122580]
According to all of nasioc, my weak dismal H3 is not competent enough to do anything :rolleyes: much less pull an enclosed trailer. :[/QUOTE]
Hey, it's your life, do what you want. You might get lucky, then again, you might not.
According to all of nasioc, my weak dismal H3 is not competent enough to do anything :rolleyes: much less pull an enclosed trailer. :[/QUOTE]
Hey, it's your life, do what you want. You might get lucky, then again, you might not.
| Jack | 02-20-2007 11:15 PM |
burnin4,
Feel free to PM me for a more long winded comment.
Look at featherlight
Look at trailex
Then look at Thule/Cargopro. I did this and the Cargopro is on a completely different level. Completely welded, torsion axles. I had them custom build me a 14 foot one because I was pulling with a Wrangler (not a great idea, but worked ok with a 1600 pound CRX....the trailer was 900 pounds).
I sold that one to Sean (on NASIOC) because I wanted an enclosed trailer and had dumped the Jeep for a Yukon XL.
I went with Cargopro again and now pull an 18' full aluminum cargo trailer. 2000 pounds. The wind resistance is significant.
Aluminum is not cheap, but when you go to sell it, ask what you originally paid for it and you'll sell it at that price pretty easily.
jack
Feel free to PM me for a more long winded comment.
Look at featherlight
Look at trailex
Then look at Thule/Cargopro. I did this and the Cargopro is on a completely different level. Completely welded, torsion axles. I had them custom build me a 14 foot one because I was pulling with a Wrangler (not a great idea, but worked ok with a 1600 pound CRX....the trailer was 900 pounds).
I sold that one to Sean (on NASIOC) because I wanted an enclosed trailer and had dumped the Jeep for a Yukon XL.
I went with Cargopro again and now pull an 18' full aluminum cargo trailer. 2000 pounds. The wind resistance is significant.
Aluminum is not cheap, but when you go to sell it, ask what you originally paid for it and you'll sell it at that price pretty easily.
jack
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