| Daredevil | 04-04-2003 05:24 PM |
What do you use to clean your engine?
�
�
i know at least some of you people like to keep your engine nice and shiny
what do you use to keep your metal parts spic and span?
thanks a lot
what do you use to keep your metal parts spic and span?
thanks a lot
| kenchan | 04-04-2003 05:55 PM |
i usually use some bug and tar remover to get all the salt and
oil gunk off...then clean off with either simple green or some
other weaker solution. :)
oil gunk off...then clean off with either simple green or some
other weaker solution. :)
| Wrxified | 04-05-2003 09:14 AM |
SimpleGreen works incredibly.
| Mariano | 04-05-2003 10:00 AM |
A nice mix:
-60% Castrol degreaser (purple)
-20% Mr. Clean (lime scent :lol: )
-20% Bug & remover
Works great!!! :D
Mariano
-60% Castrol degreaser (purple)
-20% Mr. Clean (lime scent :lol: )
-20% Bug & remover
Works great!!! :D
Mariano
| pharm180 | 04-05-2003 12:08 PM |
i spray the engine compartment with no touch tire care stuff and watch it gleam no scubing no touching works great....
| Siper2 | 04-05-2003 12:13 PM |
I cover the alternator with a plastic bag (just for safe keeping, I guess), squirt everything with Simple Green, wait a few minutes, then hose down the engine bay.
The stuff's awesome. :D
-S2-
The stuff's awesome. :D
-S2-
| ApexR | 04-05-2003 12:52 PM |
Simply green is great. Takes me about 5 mins a week to clean the motor.
| Tobey | 04-05-2003 02:55 PM |
anyone tried getting it steam cleaned?
| Costanza | 04-05-2003 02:58 PM |
what do you use to keep all the rubber/plastic bits shiny?
| Rice Boi | 04-05-2003 03:15 PM |
I really don't worry about that unless I'm going to show.
What I normally do is use a basic protectant like Amorall. To keep it nice and neat. Use a paint brush to paint all the plastic pieces:)
What I normally do is use a basic protectant like Amorall. To keep it nice and neat. Use a paint brush to paint all the plastic pieces:)
| 2.5RSMatt | 04-05-2003 05:01 PM |
great thread. Gonna need to re-read this once I get back from my rally cross :D
| kenchan | 04-05-2003 05:08 PM |
usually i dont need to use anything on the plastics, but if needed,
i use megures vinyl and tire shine. it doesnt make it super
shiny like armorall which is a good thing, imo. :D
i use megures vinyl and tire shine. it doesnt make it super
shiny like armorall which is a good thing, imo. :D
| BlueDemon | 04-05-2003 09:03 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Tobey [/i]
[B]anyone tried getting it steam cleaned? [/B][/QUOTE]
I had it steam cleaned once. It was nice. But then I heard that steam cleaning isn't very good for the electrical system, because you force moisture into places that normal washing wouldn't reach.
Blue
[B]anyone tried getting it steam cleaned? [/B][/QUOTE]
I had it steam cleaned once. It was nice. But then I heard that steam cleaning isn't very good for the electrical system, because you force moisture into places that normal washing wouldn't reach.
Blue
| Schleppy | 04-27-2003 05:53 PM |
Is there anything I should worry about getting wet under the bay?
I don't think I'm gonna powerwash (I'll just use a hose), so I don't think I'll force water in anywhere. So far I'm going to try to avoid the battery terminals, alternator, fuse box, and starter...
Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
I don't think I'm gonna powerwash (I'll just use a hose), so I don't think I'll force water in anywhere. So far I'm going to try to avoid the battery terminals, alternator, fuse box, and starter...
Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
| 2.5RSMatt | 04-27-2003 08:38 PM |
also the intake. I sprayed on simple green then hosed it off. worked well or me
| Ikonosin | 04-27-2003 10:18 PM |
HotShot (degreaser) and a pressure washer...
| Subie Gal | 04-28-2003 11:15 AM |
typically i powerwash the hell out of it...
then hit it with simple green.. scrub brush...
and powerwash the hell out of it a 2nd time :D
hehehe works great!
Jamie [url]www.subiegalracing.com[/url] [img]http://www.subiegal.com/rallysmiley.gif[/img]
then hit it with simple green.. scrub brush...
and powerwash the hell out of it a 2nd time :D
hehehe works great!
Jamie [url]www.subiegalracing.com[/url] [img]http://www.subiegal.com/rallysmiley.gif[/img]
| DrBoy01 | 07-17-2003 10:51 AM |
I'm worried that if I use Simple Green and spray off my engine bay, I'm going to ruin some of the electrical parts.
Where are the parts that I'd need to cover? Is there another method to wash simple green off (a squirt bottle & shop towel, maybe)? I'm kinda worried about taking a hose to my engine...
Where are the parts that I'd need to cover? Is there another method to wash simple green off (a squirt bottle & shop towel, maybe)? I'm kinda worried about taking a hose to my engine...
| Subie Gal | 07-17-2003 12:24 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by DrBoy01 [/i]
[B]I'm worried that if I use Simple Green and spray off my engine bay, I'm going to ruin some of the electrical parts.
Where are the parts that I'd need to cover? Is there another method to wash simple green off (a squirt bottle & shop towel, maybe)? I'm kinda worried about taking a hose to my engine... [/B][/QUOTE]
simple green is non toxic.
you wont hurt anything.... i've done this over and over again on the WRX and the RS.. never had an issue....
Jamie - [url]www.subiegalracing.com[/url]
[B]I'm worried that if I use Simple Green and spray off my engine bay, I'm going to ruin some of the electrical parts.
Where are the parts that I'd need to cover? Is there another method to wash simple green off (a squirt bottle & shop towel, maybe)? I'm kinda worried about taking a hose to my engine... [/B][/QUOTE]
simple green is non toxic.
you wont hurt anything.... i've done this over and over again on the WRX and the RS.. never had an issue....
Jamie - [url]www.subiegalracing.com[/url]
| DrBoy01 | 07-17-2003 01:29 PM |
I'm sorry, my first post was pretty vague, lol.
I'm worried about damaging electrical components, such as the alternator, battery, etc. There's no danger in using a hose on them?
I'm worried about damaging electrical components, such as the alternator, battery, etc. There's no danger in using a hose on them?
| Yeoman | 07-17-2003 01:50 PM |
I've powerwashed the complete engine bay more than a few times, no problem.
Just give it time to dry up a bit before you start 'er up again.
Oh yeah, I also use SimpleGreen. The Castrol degreaser I found made my intake and strut bar a little hazy, so I don't use that anymore.
Just give it time to dry up a bit before you start 'er up again.
Oh yeah, I also use SimpleGreen. The Castrol degreaser I found made my intake and strut bar a little hazy, so I don't use that anymore.
| SR20pwrd240 | 07-17-2003 05:26 PM |
Lots of simple green and a garden hose. How often do you clean your engine. I usually do it every saturday since thats car day.
| Dr Ken | 07-17-2003 05:26 PM |
I like Simple green, but not its smell - so I tried just spraying (in streams) straight 70% isopropol alcohol ($1.79 per bottle from the grocery store) from an old spray bottle and it cuts the grime almost as well - without the smell or residue. It's important to clean out little nooks and crannies which collect crud - these hold water and just corrode in their own filth. Using the stream setting on the sprey and a paint brush to reach these crannies is a good thing. If there is years of neglect to cut through, you may need to use something like 'softscrub' +/- toothbrush on various places.
For the rubber and plastic, 303 aerospace protectant sprey has been very effective, with no heat intolerence noted. It's amazing how the plastic and vinyl looks like new again with this stuff. I just can't bring myself to use silicone (armorall).
As for hosing it off, I don't jet water, just sort of sprey it gently, trying not to saturate the alternator. Water can make the belts chirp for a few seconds, but causes no adverse effect to any of the componants when done this way. If there is a battery leak or that wierd caustic powder that deposits around the terminals then that should definitely be corrected pronto.
For the rubber and plastic, 303 aerospace protectant sprey has been very effective, with no heat intolerence noted. It's amazing how the plastic and vinyl looks like new again with this stuff. I just can't bring myself to use silicone (armorall).
As for hosing it off, I don't jet water, just sort of sprey it gently, trying not to saturate the alternator. Water can make the belts chirp for a few seconds, but causes no adverse effect to any of the componants when done this way. If there is a battery leak or that wierd caustic powder that deposits around the terminals then that should definitely be corrected pronto.
| MAD REX | 07-17-2003 05:34 PM |
What should I do with my short ram filter? Cover it so it doesn't get wet?
| srad711 | 07-17-2003 09:40 PM |
Just try S100 motorcycle cleaner. works excellent.
I don't use anything else. been using it for 10+ years.
here is a link.
[url]http://store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/s1totcycclea.html[/url]
I don't use anything else. been using it for 10+ years.
here is a link.
[url]http://store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/s1totcycclea.html[/url]
| 2.5RSMatt | 07-17-2003 09:41 PM |
yeah you could sick a plastic ziplock bag over it and then tie it off with a rubber band. I also cover my battery with a plastic bag and my fuse box just to be extra careful.
-Matt
-Matt
| DrBoy01 | 07-18-2003 08:51 AM |
This is going to sound really dumb...but where is the alternator in an EJ25 engine? I'd like to cover it up when I clean the engine today, if possible.
| whataboutno | 07-18-2003 09:52 AM |
someone told me that it was better to let the engine run when your cleaning the engine bay. any comments ?
| Dr Ken | 07-18-2003 10:43 AM |
I believe the alternator is the top-most thingie connected to the other spinny bits via a pully and belt. Its the one with openings and you can see copper inside. This and other electrics are what some folks are concerned with wetting. Keeping the engine running, I think, would do two things: prevent over saturating the alternator and minimizing areas of sudden cooling of the engine if it's hot. What about headers... spifffy new ones ... I dont want to crack them...maybe there should be no spraying when engine/headers are hot. hmmm. I wonder if I could include the air filter with the next dry cleaning.
| doogdog | 07-18-2003 11:17 AM |
It's best to have a cool engine to start, spray down with Simple Green, let sit for 5 minutes, start car, spray down with hose. Careful of electronic parts and the intake. Done it many times, no problems. Did have a small problem with my friends Rex when we used a hose at full bore. I squeeze the trigger on the hose nozzle so that a miist comes out, but that's me.
DD
DD
| well_armed | 07-18-2003 12:23 PM |
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Legacy777
I have detailed cars for some years now, did it profesionally for a little bit, but the money and hours weren't what I wanted.
Anyway. I can tell you that no detail shop covers alternator or any other thing up for that matter.
On most new engines about the only thing you'd have to worry about with water is the cone filter like someone else mentioned. If you have an aftermarket ignition, or some other aftermarket electronic device that is not sealed as well as the factory stuff, it may be a good idea to take extra care with that item and bag it up.
As for cleaners. Don't use simple green, it is corossive to aluminum.
Verbatum from the Navy's safety center website: [url]http://www.safetycenter.navy.mil/me...mourreaders.htm[/url]
"Dear Editor:
The cleaning liquid Simple Green should not be used to clean aluminum equipment or parts because it is highly corrosive.
According to an article AVweb, a 3.5- gram aluminum alloy sample was immersed into a container of Simple Green. After one week, the sample was 295 milligrams lighter. The article further states that the Air Force issued a statement not to use Simple Green on Air Force equipment containing aluminum.
Thought you Navy folks would like to have this information.
MSgt. Larry Stulz
Wright-Patterson AFB, Ohio
We appreciate your information about Simple Green. Lt. David Mims, head of the Occupational and Environmental Health Division here at the Safety Center, researched the Simple Green situation. He found that the Naval Air Warfare Center (NavAir) disapproved of the use of Simple Green for naval aviation in 1993. They have a documented incident of crazing of an F-18 canopy following the unauthorized use of Simple Green. According to an official at NavAir, they have tested the product at least three times since 1989. Simple Green fails sandwich corrosion and total immersion-corrosion tests for aluminum. That official also said NavAir recommended that commands remove Simple Green from their spaces. It�s just too easy for someone who�s told to clean something to grab a bottle of Simple Green off the shelf and use it on an airplane or equipment made of aluminum.�Ed."
As far as what to use, go down to lowes or home depot and get some heavy duty degreaser, usually comes in a gallon jug of some sorts. The nastier it is, the better it works....usually hahaha.
How to apply it & clean. The best thing to use is a pressure washer where you can get some heat to it.
Spray the engine bay down with water, then spray everything with degreaser......allow to sit for a little bit......crank on the heat for the pressure washer, spray a little in the air to make sure the water is hot. Then take it to the engine....spray around everything, moving the wand evenly around.....try not to get super close to one area, as the pressure of the water may not be so good. Repeat if necessary.
If you don't have a pressure washer with heat, that's ok.
Don't use steam, the extreme temp of steam can cause the rubber hoses to dry, crack, and fail pre-maturely.
The most common issues when cleaning the engine bay is water in the spark plug wells. Some compressed air will take care of that. Squeaky belts are also sometimes a problem. But pretty much everything goes away when the engine heats up and water evaporates.
Josh
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Legacy777
I have detailed cars for some years now, did it profesionally for a little bit, but the money and hours weren't what I wanted.
Anyway. I can tell you that no detail shop covers alternator or any other thing up for that matter.
On most new engines about the only thing you'd have to worry about with water is the cone filter like someone else mentioned. If you have an aftermarket ignition, or some other aftermarket electronic device that is not sealed as well as the factory stuff, it may be a good idea to take extra care with that item and bag it up.
As for cleaners. Don't use simple green, it is corossive to aluminum.
Verbatum from the Navy's safety center website: [url]http://www.safetycenter.navy.mil/me...mourreaders.htm[/url]
"Dear Editor:
The cleaning liquid Simple Green should not be used to clean aluminum equipment or parts because it is highly corrosive.
According to an article AVweb, a 3.5- gram aluminum alloy sample was immersed into a container of Simple Green. After one week, the sample was 295 milligrams lighter. The article further states that the Air Force issued a statement not to use Simple Green on Air Force equipment containing aluminum.
Thought you Navy folks would like to have this information.
MSgt. Larry Stulz
Wright-Patterson AFB, Ohio
We appreciate your information about Simple Green. Lt. David Mims, head of the Occupational and Environmental Health Division here at the Safety Center, researched the Simple Green situation. He found that the Naval Air Warfare Center (NavAir) disapproved of the use of Simple Green for naval aviation in 1993. They have a documented incident of crazing of an F-18 canopy following the unauthorized use of Simple Green. According to an official at NavAir, they have tested the product at least three times since 1989. Simple Green fails sandwich corrosion and total immersion-corrosion tests for aluminum. That official also said NavAir recommended that commands remove Simple Green from their spaces. It�s just too easy for someone who�s told to clean something to grab a bottle of Simple Green off the shelf and use it on an airplane or equipment made of aluminum.�Ed."
As far as what to use, go down to lowes or home depot and get some heavy duty degreaser, usually comes in a gallon jug of some sorts. The nastier it is, the better it works....usually hahaha.
How to apply it & clean. The best thing to use is a pressure washer where you can get some heat to it.
Spray the engine bay down with water, then spray everything with degreaser......allow to sit for a little bit......crank on the heat for the pressure washer, spray a little in the air to make sure the water is hot. Then take it to the engine....spray around everything, moving the wand evenly around.....try not to get super close to one area, as the pressure of the water may not be so good. Repeat if necessary.
If you don't have a pressure washer with heat, that's ok.
Don't use steam, the extreme temp of steam can cause the rubber hoses to dry, crack, and fail pre-maturely.
The most common issues when cleaning the engine bay is water in the spark plug wells. Some compressed air will take care of that. Squeaky belts are also sometimes a problem. But pretty much everything goes away when the engine heats up and water evaporates.
Josh
| djerickd | 07-18-2003 01:56 PM |
Doh! well if Simple Green is bad, what now?
| well_armed | 07-18-2003 02:25 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by djerickd [/i]
[B]Doh! well if Simple Green is bad, what now? [/B][/QUOTE]
[QUOTE][B]As far as what to use, go down to lowes or home depot and get some heavy duty degreaser, usually comes in a gallon jug of some sorts. The nastier it is, the better it works....usually hahaha[/B][/QUOTE]
[B]Doh! well if Simple Green is bad, what now? [/B][/QUOTE]
[QUOTE][B]As far as what to use, go down to lowes or home depot and get some heavy duty degreaser, usually comes in a gallon jug of some sorts. The nastier it is, the better it works....usually hahaha[/B][/QUOTE]
| sirwrx273 | 07-19-2003 01:37 PM |
I with the heavy duty degreaser...I use this stuff called 91...very potent...will cause damage...be careful. commercial strength, detail shops and the like use it. not sure where to get it, just ask at a detail shop or body shop.
S
S
| Orson | 07-19-2003 06:38 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by djerickd [/i]
[B]Doh! well if Simple Green is bad, what now? [/B][/QUOTE]
Orange cleaner (the concentrated stuff, ,like "Greased Lightning Orange Cleaner", not the household stuff)?
[B]Doh! well if Simple Green is bad, what now? [/B][/QUOTE]
Orange cleaner (the concentrated stuff, ,like "Greased Lightning Orange Cleaner", not the household stuff)?
| 2.5RSMatt | 07-19-2003 06:41 PM |
I mixed that orange stuff with simple green and the dirt just slides right off
| Ikonosin | 07-19-2003 07:05 PM |
I was using [URL=http://www.pssales.com/gpc.html]Hot Shot[/URL] , but we just switched over to [URL=http://www.championchemical.com/specs/purplethunder.html]Purple Thunder[/URL] . It seems to work pretty well so far.
you should [B]not[/B] leave your car running while cleaning the engine bay. The heat off the block will bake the cleaner onto everything, leaving streaks.
you should [B]not[/B] leave your car running while cleaning the engine bay. The heat off the block will bake the cleaner onto everything, leaving streaks.
| foolio | 07-20-2003 12:30 PM |
Some simple green for the cleaning then silicone spray for the final touch.
| Dr Ken | 07-20-2003 03:07 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by well_armed [/i]
[B]After one week, the sample was 295 milligrams lighter. [/B][/QUOTE]
:eek:, Whoa, that's a lot of aluminum to disolve! I wonder what makes Simple Green do this, so an alternative can be assured to be safe. Maybe ANY alkaline solution would have similar effect - I'm just wondering. I think I'll stick to my isopropol alcohol, it seems benign enough on paint as well as bare metal.
[B]After one week, the sample was 295 milligrams lighter. [/B][/QUOTE]
:eek:, Whoa, that's a lot of aluminum to disolve! I wonder what makes Simple Green do this, so an alternative can be assured to be safe. Maybe ANY alkaline solution would have similar effect - I'm just wondering. I think I'll stick to my isopropol alcohol, it seems benign enough on paint as well as bare metal.
| Orson | 07-21-2003 08:30 AM |
Here's another idea: a case of brake cleaner. Seriously, anyone try that?
| djerickd | 07-21-2003 12:24 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Orson [/i]
[B]Here's another idea: a case of brake cleaner. Seriously, anyone try that? [/B][/QUOTE]
:lol:
[B]Here's another idea: a case of brake cleaner. Seriously, anyone try that? [/B][/QUOTE]
:lol:
| millerlite6633 | 02-06-2012 11:06 AM |
boner
| KentuckyFriedSTI | 02-06-2012 02:33 PM |
1. Simple Green
2. Spray bottle with water
3. Tooth brush
4. Dry Towel
5. Profit
6. Win
7. Make em wet
2. Spray bottle with water
3. Tooth brush
4. Dry Towel
5. Profit
6. Win
7. Make em wet
| LoveAtFirstRide | 02-08-2012 08:34 PM |
[quote=well_armed;4255631]quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Legacy777
I have detailed cars for some years now, did it profesionally for a little bit, but the money and hours weren't what I wanted.
Anyway. I can tell you that no detail shop covers alternator or any other thing up for that matter.
On most new engines about the only thing you'd have to worry about with water is the cone filter like someone else mentioned. If you have an aftermarket ignition, or some other aftermarket electronic device that is not sealed as well as the factory stuff, it may be a good idea to take extra care with that item and bag it up.
As for cleaners. Don't use simple green, it is corossive to aluminum.
Verbatum from the Navy's safety center website: [URL]http://www.safetycenter.navy.mil/me...mourreaders.htm[/URL]
"Dear Editor:
The cleaning liquid Simple Green should not be used to clean aluminum equipment or parts because it is highly corrosive.
According to an article AVweb, a 3.5- gram aluminum alloy sample was immersed into a container of Simple Green. After one week, the sample was 295 milligrams lighter. The article further states that the Air Force issued a statement not to use Simple Green on Air Force equipment containing aluminum.
Thought you Navy folks would like to have this information.
MSgt. Larry Stulz
Wright-Patterson AFB, Ohio
We appreciate your information about Simple Green. Lt. David Mims, head of the Occupational and Environmental Health Division here at the Safety Center, researched the Simple Green situation. He found that the Naval Air Warfare Center (NavAir) disapproved of the use of Simple Green for naval aviation in 1993. They have a documented incident of crazing of an F-18 canopy following the unauthorized use of Simple Green. According to an official at NavAir, they have tested the product at least three times since 1989. Simple Green fails sandwich corrosion and total immersion-corrosion tests for aluminum. That official also said NavAir recommended that commands remove Simple Green from their spaces. It�s just too easy for someone who�s told to clean something to grab a bottle of Simple Green off the shelf and use it on an airplane or equipment made of aluminum.�Ed."
As far as what to use, go down to lowes or home depot and get some heavy duty degreaser, usually comes in a gallon jug of some sorts. The nastier it is, the better it works....usually hahaha.
How to apply it & clean. The best thing to use is a pressure washer where you can get some heat to it.
Spray the engine bay down with water, then spray everything with degreaser......allow to sit for a little bit......crank on the heat for the pressure washer, spray a little in the air to make sure the water is hot. Then take it to the engine....spray around everything, moving the wand evenly around.....try not to get super close to one area, as the pressure of the water may not be so good. Repeat if necessary.
If you don't have a pressure washer with heat, that's ok.
Don't use steam, the extreme temp of steam can cause the rubber hoses to dry, crack, and fail pre-maturely.
The most common issues when cleaning the engine bay is water in the spark plug wells. Some compressed air will take care of that. Squeaky belts are also sometimes a problem. But pretty much everything goes away when the engine heats up and water evaporates.
Josh[/quote]
Thank you for this post! Super helpful and very well informed, I'm getting my first car soon subsequently I'm reading up for my first detail, my first thought was to take a day with a toothbrush and mix baking soda with water as a cleaner. I like your suggestions better- but I'm still gonna use a toothbrush to make sure I get everything and don't get any electrical components wet, I'm a little too OCD to use a hose. XD
[quote=Orson;4267901]Here's another idea: a case of brake cleaner. Seriously, anyone try that?[/quote]
*facepalm* :furious: you do realize brake cleaner is highly corrosive, toxic, and flammable right? >.< granted I'm usually overly cautious and all, but I though that was just common sense.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Legacy777
I have detailed cars for some years now, did it profesionally for a little bit, but the money and hours weren't what I wanted.
Anyway. I can tell you that no detail shop covers alternator or any other thing up for that matter.
On most new engines about the only thing you'd have to worry about with water is the cone filter like someone else mentioned. If you have an aftermarket ignition, or some other aftermarket electronic device that is not sealed as well as the factory stuff, it may be a good idea to take extra care with that item and bag it up.
As for cleaners. Don't use simple green, it is corossive to aluminum.
Verbatum from the Navy's safety center website: [URL]http://www.safetycenter.navy.mil/me...mourreaders.htm[/URL]
"Dear Editor:
The cleaning liquid Simple Green should not be used to clean aluminum equipment or parts because it is highly corrosive.
According to an article AVweb, a 3.5- gram aluminum alloy sample was immersed into a container of Simple Green. After one week, the sample was 295 milligrams lighter. The article further states that the Air Force issued a statement not to use Simple Green on Air Force equipment containing aluminum.
Thought you Navy folks would like to have this information.
MSgt. Larry Stulz
Wright-Patterson AFB, Ohio
We appreciate your information about Simple Green. Lt. David Mims, head of the Occupational and Environmental Health Division here at the Safety Center, researched the Simple Green situation. He found that the Naval Air Warfare Center (NavAir) disapproved of the use of Simple Green for naval aviation in 1993. They have a documented incident of crazing of an F-18 canopy following the unauthorized use of Simple Green. According to an official at NavAir, they have tested the product at least three times since 1989. Simple Green fails sandwich corrosion and total immersion-corrosion tests for aluminum. That official also said NavAir recommended that commands remove Simple Green from their spaces. It�s just too easy for someone who�s told to clean something to grab a bottle of Simple Green off the shelf and use it on an airplane or equipment made of aluminum.�Ed."
As far as what to use, go down to lowes or home depot and get some heavy duty degreaser, usually comes in a gallon jug of some sorts. The nastier it is, the better it works....usually hahaha.
How to apply it & clean. The best thing to use is a pressure washer where you can get some heat to it.
Spray the engine bay down with water, then spray everything with degreaser......allow to sit for a little bit......crank on the heat for the pressure washer, spray a little in the air to make sure the water is hot. Then take it to the engine....spray around everything, moving the wand evenly around.....try not to get super close to one area, as the pressure of the water may not be so good. Repeat if necessary.
If you don't have a pressure washer with heat, that's ok.
Don't use steam, the extreme temp of steam can cause the rubber hoses to dry, crack, and fail pre-maturely.
The most common issues when cleaning the engine bay is water in the spark plug wells. Some compressed air will take care of that. Squeaky belts are also sometimes a problem. But pretty much everything goes away when the engine heats up and water evaporates.
Josh[/quote]
Thank you for this post! Super helpful and very well informed, I'm getting my first car soon subsequently I'm reading up for my first detail, my first thought was to take a day with a toothbrush and mix baking soda with water as a cleaner. I like your suggestions better- but I'm still gonna use a toothbrush to make sure I get everything and don't get any electrical components wet, I'm a little too OCD to use a hose. XD
[quote=Orson;4267901]Here's another idea: a case of brake cleaner. Seriously, anyone try that?[/quote]
*facepalm* :furious: you do realize brake cleaner is highly corrosive, toxic, and flammable right? >.< granted I'm usually overly cautious and all, but I though that was just common sense.
| Wmonahan | 03-06-2012 12:57 PM |
I also cleaned cars for many years...learned from my dad who has done it his whole life. Commercial grade stuff is the best to get but hardest to come by. I always used Ardex but it isn't so easy to find off the shelf.
I recommend something like purple power or any other concentrated all-purpose cleaner/degreaser. It is wise to hose down your fenders and front bumper to avoid letting chemical soak on them. Set the bottle to mist and spray anything you want to under the hood. Let it sit for a minute and then give everything a scrub with your tire/wheel type brush. Then set the bottle to stream and shoot the hell out of any nook and cranny jambs that are extra grimey. Then brush again, spray off. Repeat as necessary. When I do my final rinse off I start the engine; the heat will help to dry it all off.
Good luck!
I recommend something like purple power or any other concentrated all-purpose cleaner/degreaser. It is wise to hose down your fenders and front bumper to avoid letting chemical soak on them. Set the bottle to mist and spray anything you want to under the hood. Let it sit for a minute and then give everything a scrub with your tire/wheel type brush. Then set the bottle to stream and shoot the hell out of any nook and cranny jambs that are extra grimey. Then brush again, spray off. Repeat as necessary. When I do my final rinse off I start the engine; the heat will help to dry it all off.
Good luck!
| 68Cadillac | 03-06-2012 01:27 PM |
The coin-op power washer at the DIY car wash. Set on High pressure with soap.
For trouble spots I'll hit the area with a self-diluted (I add water 5:1 water : product) degreaser like purple power or simple green, then drive over to the coin-op wash.
Done in a jiff.
What do I use to dry it off? Engine heat and the atmosphere.
For trouble spots I'll hit the area with a self-diluted (I add water 5:1 water : product) degreaser like purple power or simple green, then drive over to the coin-op wash.
Done in a jiff.
What do I use to dry it off? Engine heat and the atmosphere.
| dvrmstrng | 03-06-2012 04:19 PM |
So are the only 2 components that should be covered "just to be safe" the alt and battery...everything else is good to get hosed down?
| Brown Ops | 03-07-2012 01:01 AM |
I use simple green ( I know, corrosive) and plain old water. I start remove my Cobb intake and use a plastic bac to cover the opening. I usually remove my top mount and also cover the throttle body. I spray simple green all over the bay except for the battery. I let it soak for several minutes and I then scrub with a tire brush and hose it all off with the fogger nozzle that I have. I have done this many times and have never had a single problem doing this. I haven't ever covered my alternator either. I do try to avoid spraying my belts though.
| wrxgirl08 | 03-07-2012 01:18 AM |
I actually just spray a towel with pledge and wipe it all down by hand. My bf actually suggested it and it keeps all the black pieces nice and dark, not faded. It also helps that I have tiny kid hands and can reach pretty much any part that you can see.
| hdempsey | 03-07-2012 04:54 AM |
303 Aerospace
| Proper282 | 03-07-2012 05:36 PM |
No ones tried WD-40? Used this method a few years ago and never looked back
[url]http://efcivicsedan.myfreeforum.org/about3144.html[/url]
[url]http://efcivicsedan.myfreeforum.org/about3144.html[/url]
| Notyab | 03-07-2012 10:14 PM |
[quote=Proper282;36570408]No ones tried WD-40? Used this method a few years ago and never looked back
[url]http://efcivicsedan.myfreeforum.org/about3144.html[/url][/quote]
holy crap
[url]http://efcivicsedan.myfreeforum.org/about3144.html[/url][/quote]
holy crap
| Otis_WRX | 03-10-2012 09:24 AM |
[quote="Notyab"]
holy crap[/quote]
^this
holy crap[/quote]
^this
| lordgrinz | 03-10-2012 09:54 AM |
[quote=Proper282;36570408]No ones tried WD-40? Used this method a few years ago and never looked back
[URL]http://efcivicsedan.myfreeforum.org/about3144.html[/URL][/quote]
Ummm, how did you turn that rusted engine mount black again? Or the other mysterious parts that were rusted before, and now shiny metal, or painted? :huh:
[URL]http://efcivicsedan.myfreeforum.org/about3144.html[/URL][/quote]
Ummm, how did you turn that rusted engine mount black again? Or the other mysterious parts that were rusted before, and now shiny metal, or painted? :huh:
| Otis_WRX | 03-10-2012 10:19 AM |
[quote="lordgrinz"]
Ummm, how did you turn that rusted engine mount black again? Or the other mysterious parts that were rusted before, and now shiny metal, or painted? :huh:[/quote]
If you read the how to he states some pieces were replaced
Ummm, how did you turn that rusted engine mount black again? Or the other mysterious parts that were rusted before, and now shiny metal, or painted? :huh:[/quote]
If you read the how to he states some pieces were replaced
| Proper282 | 03-10-2012 02:32 PM |
[quote=lordgrinz;36594991]Ummm, how did you turn that rusted engine mount black again? Or the other mysterious parts that were rusted before, and now shiny metal, or painted? :huh:[/quote]
Ummm, WD-40 is magic stunner sauce holmes! Makes rusted shi+ factory fresh! I'm sure no one is going to think wd-40 is going to make crap parts look like new. The point of the post was to show how it cleaned all that grime off of everything. If that was an attempt to shoot down the method it was pretty weak. But it goes to show that a few cheap replacement parts, engine paint, and some elbow grease can yield some impressive results
Ummm, WD-40 is magic stunner sauce holmes! Makes rusted shi+ factory fresh! I'm sure no one is going to think wd-40 is going to make crap parts look like new. The point of the post was to show how it cleaned all that grime off of everything. If that was an attempt to shoot down the method it was pretty weak. But it goes to show that a few cheap replacement parts, engine paint, and some elbow grease can yield some impressive results
| lordgrinz | 03-10-2012 09:08 PM |
Interesting, but never used anything but water, I would die before my engine bay looked like that.
| Proper282 | 03-10-2012 11:23 PM |
There was more to that story. The car was purchased from someone who had let it sit for almost a decade.
| 04ts | 03-10-2012 11:34 PM |
Simple Green Max diluted with water.
| 04ts | 03-10-2012 11:39 PM |
[quote=Proper282;36570408]No ones tried WD-40? Used this method a few years ago and never looked back
[url]http://efcivicsedan.myfreeforum.org/about3144.html[/url][/quote]
WD-40 works. i use it to clean the bottom lip of the doors.
i don't have the luxury of spending 3 days to clean my engine bay using WD-40 so Simple Green Max for me. :banana:
[url]http://efcivicsedan.myfreeforum.org/about3144.html[/url][/quote]
WD-40 works. i use it to clean the bottom lip of the doors.
i don't have the luxury of spending 3 days to clean my engine bay using WD-40 so Simple Green Max for me. :banana:
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