| satrya | 07-08-2003 03:06 PM |
DIY wing riser
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USDM yellow GDs come with a rear wing as a "compulsory option", but I didn't like how it blocked the immediate rear view. Not wanting to lose the LED 3rd brake light, nor fill the trunk holes (if the wing is removed), I decided to raise the wing. Ready-made options are the zerosports riser (US$200-ish), the zerosports replica, the STi Limited (US$500??), and possibly a Kartboy version that was in the talks a while back (not sure if this ever came out).
Aside from price, most of them are rather tall and draws too much attention for my taste. There seemed to be complaints about quality for both the original and replica zerosports pieces. The zerosports riser looks a bit odd from the rear. Some say the replica isn't that nice either. The STi limited is rather pricey. The Kartboy version probably hasn't been released yet. Time for a DIY.
I wanted something that:
(1) moves the wing up a little (.5 - 2 inches),
(2) doesn't look out of place (subjective),
(3) doesn't cost a lot (total parts cost was less than US$100),
(4) allows for an additional safety feature (aux turn signals), and
(5) goes along with the nice contour of the rear: (a) raised trunk shoulders, (b) "vee" shapes of the wing base and rear side of the trunk, & (c) the arch on the lower side of the wing.
[SIZE=1]Thinking that it wouldn't be a complicated DIY, I went ahead and made this riser. In retrospect, this is not as quick & simple as the pictures seem to suggest. Took me about 2 months worth of spare time. Well worth the time imho.[/SIZE]
[B]Before:[/B]
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SSF96rMhX1I/UPBDUgkoZPI/AAAAAAAAM40/zDPphf03pcs/s537/before.jpg[/IMG]
[B]After:[/B]
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JtLHaSsr9rQ/UPBDU9o9G5I/AAAAAAAAM1o/umfNGUyjsiw/s256/riser_v3_002.jpg[/IMG]
More photos of the riser (updated 20030714):
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/hwy1_001s.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/hwy1_002s.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/hwy1_003s.jpg[/IMG]
Aside from price, most of them are rather tall and draws too much attention for my taste. There seemed to be complaints about quality for both the original and replica zerosports pieces. The zerosports riser looks a bit odd from the rear. Some say the replica isn't that nice either. The STi limited is rather pricey. The Kartboy version probably hasn't been released yet. Time for a DIY.
I wanted something that:
(1) moves the wing up a little (.5 - 2 inches),
(2) doesn't look out of place (subjective),
(3) doesn't cost a lot (total parts cost was less than US$100),
(4) allows for an additional safety feature (aux turn signals), and
(5) goes along with the nice contour of the rear: (a) raised trunk shoulders, (b) "vee" shapes of the wing base and rear side of the trunk, & (c) the arch on the lower side of the wing.
[SIZE=1]Thinking that it wouldn't be a complicated DIY, I went ahead and made this riser. In retrospect, this is not as quick & simple as the pictures seem to suggest. Took me about 2 months worth of spare time. Well worth the time imho.[/SIZE]
[B]Before:[/B]
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SSF96rMhX1I/UPBDUgkoZPI/AAAAAAAAM40/zDPphf03pcs/s537/before.jpg[/IMG]
[B]After:[/B]
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JtLHaSsr9rQ/UPBDU9o9G5I/AAAAAAAAM1o/umfNGUyjsiw/s256/riser_v3_002.jpg[/IMG]
More photos of the riser (updated 20030714):
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/hwy1_001s.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/hwy1_002s.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/hwy1_003s.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 03:20 PM |
view of lower arch contour
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Rear view, showing the lower arch of the wing & the continuing lines on the riser. Clear portions are for the aux turn signals.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v2_001.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v2_001.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 03:23 PM |
View of the suble lift
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10:30 o'clock angle shows the subtle lift.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v2_005.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v2_005.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 03:24 PM |
Side view
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[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v2_006.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 03:28 PM |
Rear view
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Rear view shot. The riser looks taller when viewed from this angle.
[SIZE=1]I used Krylon's "Buttercream" spray paint for the riser. It looks different in this lighting, but in broad daylight, the mismatch is not as obvious. Not bad for a $5 can available in Ace Hardware.[/SIZE]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v2_004.jpg[/IMG]
[SIZE=1]I used Krylon's "Buttercream" spray paint for the riser. It looks different in this lighting, but in broad daylight, the mismatch is not as obvious. Not bad for a $5 can available in Ace Hardware.[/SIZE]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v2_004.jpg[/IMG]
| Capt Crunch | 07-08-2003 04:27 PM |
I said it before and I'll say it again: you are the king of DIY.
Very nice job, I'd like to see a movie with the turn signals in action.
Very nice job, I'd like to see a movie with the turn signals in action.
| satrya | 07-08-2003 04:36 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Capt Crunch [/i]
[B]Very nice job, I'd like to see a movie with the turn signals in action. [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks :)
The turn signal is actually not in place yet.
[SIZE=1]Apparently you managed to post before I even start the writeup. It's so hard to post message in NASIOC this time of the day.[/SIZE]
[B]Very nice job, I'd like to see a movie with the turn signals in action. [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks :)
The turn signal is actually not in place yet.
[SIZE=1]Apparently you managed to post before I even start the writeup. It's so hard to post message in NASIOC this time of the day.[/SIZE]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 04:46 PM |
Step 1: measure bottom of wing and create a template.
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The riser is made out of a stack of 1/2 inch thick acrylic sheets. For my particular DIY, each riser is made of 4 layers. Calling the bottom layer as layer #1, then 2, 3, and then #4 for the top layer, I decided to use clear acrylic for layer #4 for the aux turn signal to be added later on.
First and obvious step is to remove the wing, and create a template out of the bottom side of the wing. The 4 bolt holes that hold the wing is critical, so make sure the holes are as [B]accurate as possible[/B]. Picture below shows the pattern being transferred to a 0.5 inch clear acrylic sheet (with brown protective paper still on).
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_001.jpg[/IMG]
First and obvious step is to remove the wing, and create a template out of the bottom side of the wing. The 4 bolt holes that hold the wing is critical, so make sure the holes are as [B]accurate as possible[/B]. Picture below shows the pattern being transferred to a 0.5 inch clear acrylic sheet (with brown protective paper still on).
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_001.jpg[/IMG]
| NeoGeo | 07-08-2003 04:54 PM |
Very nice. I always thought the zerosports ones are too tall. Although it was claimed to tilt the wing in a sharper angle to increase downforce. Is yours a parallel lift or a lift and tilt?
Any chance of you selling these? Perhaps without the led lights (easier for ya).
Any chance of you selling these? Perhaps without the led lights (easier for ya).
| satrya | 07-08-2003 04:55 PM |
Step 2: drill the 4 bolt holes
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Measure the outer diameter of the bolts, and drill the 4 holes on layer #4, making sure that the hole created is enough to clear the bolts through without sticking, but not too large to creat slack. These 4 holes will be the primary source of alignment between layer 4 and the wing, as well as layer 4 and the rest. Make sure the holes are accurately drilled. C-clamp helps a lot. It's a good idea not to rush on this simple step. Mistake here can mean scrapping the acrylic and starting with a new one. Hence the drilling first before cutting the outline.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_002.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_002.jpg[/IMG]
| kenchan | 07-08-2003 04:59 PM |
wat did you use? balsa wood? :lol: j/k
looks good. :p
looks good. :p
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:00 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by NeoGeo [/i]
[B]Very nice. Any chance of you selling these? [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. I'm trying to decide whether to do that or not. As it is, there isn't enough time for me to develop this into a final product. Imho, the initial cost, production, and other issues are not trivial. I'm open to suggestions though.
[B]Very nice. Any chance of you selling these? [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. I'm trying to decide whether to do that or not. As it is, there isn't enough time for me to develop this into a final product. Imho, the initial cost, production, and other issues are not trivial. I'm open to suggestions though.
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:03 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by kenchan [/i]
[B]wat did you use? balsa wood? :lol: j/k
looks good. :p [/B][/QUOTE]
I would have, if balsawood were stronger. The material of choice is acrylic. Delrin is more expensive. Metal is harder to work with, and has less damping compared to acrylic. The idea of a metal riser that resonates the wing doesn't sound attractive, imho. Acrylic seems to have favorable strengh, damping, and machinability.
[B]wat did you use? balsa wood? :lol: j/k
looks good. :p [/B][/QUOTE]
I would have, if balsawood were stronger. The material of choice is acrylic. Delrin is more expensive. Metal is harder to work with, and has less damping compared to acrylic. The idea of a metal riser that resonates the wing doesn't sound attractive, imho. Acrylic seems to have favorable strengh, damping, and machinability.
| kenchan | 07-08-2003 05:04 PM |
you should just make a mold out of clay and pour
acrylic plastic into casts. probably much fast for you.
then drill it.
acrylic plastic into casts. probably much fast for you.
then drill it.
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:07 PM |
Step 3: Drill wiring & cable holes
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Before moving on to the next critical thing, drill wiring & cable holes. I've heard that some oem GD wings do not come with the safety cable. In that case, you only need to drill holes for the 3rd brake wiring. I choose to drill 2 pairs of holes for the sake of symmetry.
Tip 1: It is extremely useful to mark the different layers with their layer number, left or right side, and which side is up. Doing so prevents accidental cutting/drilling on the wrong side.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_003.jpg[/IMG]
Tip 1: It is extremely useful to mark the different layers with their layer number, left or right side, and which side is up. Doing so prevents accidental cutting/drilling on the wrong side.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_003.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:11 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by kenchan [/i]
[B]you should just make a mold out of clay and pour
acrylic plastic into casts. probably much fast for you.
then drill it. [/B][/QUOTE]
Well, as I stated in the beginning, I thought cutting acrylic sheets wouldn't be too complicated. Besides, I'm not sure how to make a proper 3D mold out of clay that will look good, & I'm not sure if I have the proper tools to cast acrylic. (I recall sand casting aluminum pieces involved a rather unusual set of tools, so I didn't even consider casting plastic. Plastic fume is probably toxic.).
[B]you should just make a mold out of clay and pour
acrylic plastic into casts. probably much fast for you.
then drill it. [/B][/QUOTE]
Well, as I stated in the beginning, I thought cutting acrylic sheets wouldn't be too complicated. Besides, I'm not sure how to make a proper 3D mold out of clay that will look good, & I'm not sure if I have the proper tools to cast acrylic. (I recall sand casting aluminum pieces involved a rather unusual set of tools, so I didn't even consider casting plastic. Plastic fume is probably toxic.).
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:14 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by NeoGeo [/i]
[B]Very nice. I always thought the zerosports ones are too tall. Although it was claimed to tilt the wing in a sharper angle to increase downforce. Is yours a parallel lift or a lift and tilt?
[/B][/QUOTE]
Somehow I missed this question first time I replied. Making it a lift and tilt would be more complicated, given the way I went about building the riser. Mine is completely parallel. I'll show side pics later that illustrate this. As it is, the angle of attack of the wing stays, it's about 20 degrees, I think.
[B]Very nice. I always thought the zerosports ones are too tall. Although it was claimed to tilt the wing in a sharper angle to increase downforce. Is yours a parallel lift or a lift and tilt?
[/B][/QUOTE]
Somehow I missed this question first time I replied. Making it a lift and tilt would be more complicated, given the way I went about building the riser. Mine is completely parallel. I'll show side pics later that illustrate this. As it is, the angle of attack of the wing stays, it's about 20 degrees, I think.
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:16 PM |
Step 4: Shape the sides: prism cut.
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Using a drum sander, shape the sides according to the pattern. For now, keep the side walls vertical.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_004.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_004.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:18 PM |
Tip for step 4: those with limited tools
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If you have limited tools available, the idiot proof but (very) slow method to cut the outline is to make sucessive drill holes around the desired shape, and then use a hacksaw to cut the remaining material between the holes. The closer you can get the holes spaced apart, the less cutting needed.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_005.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_005.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:20 PM |
Check alignment before proceeding
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Re check the alignment of the 4 holes on the wing. [IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_006.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:23 PM |
Step 5: method to join the wing bolts to the trunk
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The wing has 2 short and 2 long bolts. The long bolts are only threaded about 1/2 inch from the base, and is almost 2 inches long. It makes things easier if this extra useless material is cut, but not deciding to do so, one viable solution is to use rod coupling nuts. In this case, a metric rod coupling nut, about 2 inches long. Then, simply get the appropriate bolt & washer on the inside of the trunk to bolt the coupling on the trunk. The photo below shows the rod coupler bolted on the trunk, with the wing on top.
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q6a6ABVwEiM/UPBDNI8KTfI/AAAAAAAAM4M/tZ0F361VsvU/s537/DSCF0462.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q6a6ABVwEiM/UPBDNI8KTfI/AAAAAAAAM4M/tZ0F361VsvU/s537/DSCF0462.JPG[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:25 PM |
Side view of the raised wing using the rod couplers
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Here's a side view of the raised wing. The rod couplers dictate the final height.
[IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9xUxL75mBbQ/UPBDNSG4A1I/AAAAAAAAM4Q/i49l8OP6ikw/s537/DSCF0463.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9xUxL75mBbQ/UPBDNSG4A1I/AAAAAAAAM4Q/i49l8OP6ikw/s537/DSCF0463.JPG[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:27 PM |
Rear closeup view
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The rear closeup view below shows the cabin mounted 3rd brake light, no longer obstructed by the raised wing.
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xT9XSJwjtMs/UPBDOTGu7KI/AAAAAAAAM4Y/bGgbmziosDY/s537/DSCF0465.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xT9XSJwjtMs/UPBDOTGu7KI/AAAAAAAAM4Y/bGgbmziosDY/s537/DSCF0465.JPG[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:32 PM |
Step 6: cut bottom layers (#1)
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Using the hole alignment of the top layer (#4), create the bottom layer. The reason for making the bottom layer after the top, is because I wanted to have a 3D profile, in which the bottom is the widest, and gradually narrowing on the top. To ensure proper alignment, use the holes initially marked for the wiring & cable to affix the new layer to the already cut layer #4. Tap and add countersunk so that the machine screws hold them in place. Picture below shows the slow cutting process by successive holes.
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1sJC-Y_bYQ4/UPBDOvbg5VI/AAAAAAAAMzs/g-MQ2hP65A0/s537/DSCF0466.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1sJC-Y_bYQ4/UPBDOvbg5VI/AAAAAAAAMzs/g-MQ2hP65A0/s537/DSCF0466.JPG[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:36 PM |
Step 7: repeat for other layers
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Cut layers 2 & 3 using the same method. On each of them, mark the outlines of layer 4 & 1, and then mark a contour in between them.
Once each of them are cut, put them together and drill perimeter holes to hold them together. The two holes used before may not be enough to hold them together when the stack is subjected to the drum sander for 3D contouring. The closer to the sides, the better. Tap only the bottom layer to ensure tight fit regardless of whether the protective brown sheets are removed or not. In this case, remove the brown sheets between the layers.
[IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-09tGGq9RkT8/UPBDPG_9RrI/AAAAAAAAMz0/UE6yj300P18/s537/DSCF0540.JPG[/IMG]
Once each of them are cut, put them together and drill perimeter holes to hold them together. The two holes used before may not be enough to hold them together when the stack is subjected to the drum sander for 3D contouring. The closer to the sides, the better. Tap only the bottom layer to ensure tight fit regardless of whether the protective brown sheets are removed or not. In this case, remove the brown sheets between the layers.
[IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-09tGGq9RkT8/UPBDPG_9RrI/AAAAAAAAMz0/UE6yj300P18/s537/DSCF0540.JPG[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:37 PM |
Before and after 3D contouring
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Picture below shows a comparison between the before and after 3D contouring. Finer sanding will be necessary later.
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jDbts2M7e3Q/UPBDPngJNWI/AAAAAAAAM4c/q6THjQq9CNQ/s537/DSCF0541.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jDbts2M7e3Q/UPBDPngJNWI/AAAAAAAAM4c/q6THjQq9CNQ/s537/DSCF0541.JPG[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:39 PM |
Step 8: countersunk top hole, and mount layer #4
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[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_013.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:40 PM |
Step 9: Mount top layer
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[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_014.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:42 PM |
Step 10 (important): enlarge the bolt holes
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After ensuring that all 4 layers are properly stacked, and that the 4 bolt holes still align with the bolts on the wing, enlarge these holes to allow for the rod couplers to fit. Again, [B]make sure that the enlarged hole maintains alignment[/B]. Very important. Any significant deviation here would mean tossing the entire riser.
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cs8QeanMh48/UPBDQrJ55LI/AAAAAAAAM0Y/tXvVb0ZYLlA/s537/DSCF0549.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cs8QeanMh48/UPBDQrJ55LI/AAAAAAAAM0Y/tXvVb0ZYLlA/s537/DSCF0549.JPG[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:45 PM |
Step 11: drill new perimeter holes facing upwards
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Now that the general shape is finished, replace the perimeter bolts and the 2 bolts in the middle with perimeter holes that start from the bottom, going upwards, and then tap the top layer. Countersunk the bottom layer to hide the bolts. Glue the 3 bottom layers (1-3) together.
Also, mark 2 inch holes for the wiring & cables. If desired mark smaller holes to reduce the total weight.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_016.jpg[/IMG]
Also, mark 2 inch holes for the wiring & cables. If desired mark smaller holes to reduce the total weight.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_016.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:46 PM |
Side view of 1 of the upward facing bolts
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[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_017.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:47 PM |
Step 12: Cut 2inch holes with a hole cutter.
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[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v0_018.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:48 PM |
Ver 1 fitment test
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Test fit of the riser. Riser is not bolted on the trunk yet.
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:50 PM |
Ver 1 fitment test: contour inspection
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Picture below shows how the riser looks from a passenger approaching the rear rhs door. Note the contour of the front and back of the riser.
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DBFx-yiwRY4/UPBDS5ofMmI/AAAAAAAAM4w/j9x0Ng50nrA/s537/DSCF0624.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DBFx-yiwRY4/UPBDS5ofMmI/AAAAAAAAM4w/j9x0Ng50nrA/s537/DSCF0624.JPG[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:52 PM |
Trunk & oem wing curve
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Closeup side view shows how the bottom surface of the oem wing (as well as the trunk surface) is not completely flat, but slightly arched. Since the acrylic plates are flat, and are too thick to arch, some kind of flexible seal will have to be used. More on that later.
[IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9xUxL75mBbQ/UPBDNSG4A1I/AAAAAAAAM4Q/i49l8OP6ikw/s537/DSCF0463.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9xUxL75mBbQ/UPBDNSG4A1I/AAAAAAAAM4Q/i49l8OP6ikw/s537/DSCF0463.JPG[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:54 PM |
Rear view mirror angle
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From the rear view mirror inside the cabin. More view of the immediate rear. The riser is barely visible from here.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_004.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_004.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 05:59 PM |
need to paint
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The black-on-yellow theme doesn't seem to be working. I thought it would look ok, with the mudflaps, sideskirt, and some pieces being black.
As it is, it stands out too much.[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_006.jpg[/IMG]
As it is, it stands out too much.[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_006.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 06:02 PM |
Step 13: glue layers 1-3 and let cure
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Using a flexible glue, affix layers 1-3, use the perimeter holes to hold them in place, and let cure overnight. Make sure no excess glue oozes out to the bolt holes, in case you need to remove the bolts later on. Glue oozing out on the outer surface is not a problem, as some more surface finishing will be required.
Picture below shows the brown protective coatings removed from all layers.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_007.jpg[/IMG]
Picture below shows the brown protective coatings removed from all layers.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_007.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 06:05 PM |
Step 14: add protective coating on the bottom
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To minimize the chances of scratching/rubbing the trunk's paint surface, coat the bottom of layer 1 with something slightly flexible and non-abrasive. I chose to use this "paintable rubber undercoating" by bondo. Easy to apply, especially considering the large number of holes on the surface. Note that most of the smaller holes on the riser are for weight savings reason.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_008.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_008.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 06:09 PM |
Step 15: Refine the surface finish.
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To ensure a good surface finish after painting, sand the surface to remove minor imperfections and make the surface as smooth as possible. Start from a coarser sand paper, and move gradually to finer grits. I prefer wet sanding for the smooth finish, and less dust.
This is a trivial but very time consuming process, and will determine how nice the piece looks up close. Picture below shows the smoothed surface.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_009.jpg[/IMG]
This is a trivial but very time consuming process, and will determine how nice the piece looks up close. Picture below shows the smoothed surface.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_009.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 06:20 PM |
Step 16: Apply reflective tint on the clear acrylic
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Given that the clear acrylic layer (top / #4) is intended for the aux turn signal, it's a good idea to apply a reflective tint on the top and bottom surface so that light that enters the clear acrylic gets reflected off the top & bottom surfaces.
Picture below shows a self-adhesive chrome sheet available at most generic auto stores.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_010.jpg[/IMG]
Picture below shows a self-adhesive chrome sheet available at most generic auto stores.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_010.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 06:23 PM |
Where the aux turn signal light comes in
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Picture below shows the clear acrylic, with chrome tinting on the top side. The hole where the 3rd brake light wiring goes will be where the turn signal led cluster gets mounted.
The frosted surface of the 2inch hole picks up the light and reflects it inside the clear acrylic. Chrome tinting on the top and bottom layers make sure that light goes to the outside surface.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_011.jpg[/IMG]
The frosted surface of the 2inch hole picks up the light and reflects it inside the clear acrylic. Chrome tinting on the top and bottom layers make sure that light goes to the outside surface.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_011.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 06:24 PM |
Step 17: chrome tint the bottom side of layer #4
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As before, apply chrome tint on the bottom layer. This time, do not trim the outline & holes first.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_012.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_012.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 06:29 PM |
Step 18: apply flexible rubber to seal layer 3 & 4
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Since only layers 1-3 are glued together, there needs to be a decent seal between layers 3 & 4. Otherwise, moisture may enter this gap, into the 2 inch hole, and down the trunk. Spray on the flexible rubber on the chrome tint.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_013.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_013.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 06:32 PM |
Step 19: trim the chrome tint & flexible rubber coat
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Trim after the flexible rubber has cured.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_015.jpg[/IMG]
Picture below shows the upper and lower sides of the finished 4th layer.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_015.jpg[/IMG]
Picture below shows the upper and lower sides of the finished 4th layer.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_016.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 06:41 PM |
Step 20: paint layers 1-3
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Since initial fitment tests of the unpainted version reveals that the black surface doesn't really work well, I decided to paint layers 1-3. As an initial test, I used Krylon's "buttercream" color, made for plastic, that seems to match the blaze yellow color somewhat. For less than US$5 a can, and given that it claims to be good for plastic without the need for prep or primer work, I thought it would be worth a shot.
[SIZE=1]Those with blaze yellow GDs, this spray paint is available at Ace Hardware. The nozzle is one of the better types of the spray cans I know of, and can produce a fine mist. Makes it easier to get good, smooth result. The match is far from perfect, but as you can see from the pictures, particularly the outdoors ones, it works ok for prototype testing.[/SIZE]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_014.jpg[/IMG]
[SIZE=1]Those with blaze yellow GDs, this spray paint is available at Ace Hardware. The nozzle is one of the better types of the spray cans I know of, and can produce a fine mist. Makes it easier to get good, smooth result. The match is far from perfect, but as you can see from the pictures, particularly the outdoors ones, it works ok for prototype testing.[/SIZE]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_014.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 07-08-2003 06:43 PM |
Bolts & washers that mount the riser to the trunk via the rod coupling
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Picture below shows the 4 bolts & washers (near the wrench & screwdriver) that mates with the rod coupling, already installed on the riser & wing. Also note where the 3rd brake wiring & cable goes through.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_017.jpg[/IMG]
Last picture below shows the closeup. Note that the 4 layers of 1/2 inch acrylic is slightly taller than the rod coupling.
End of writeup. Any comments, questions, concerns welcome :)
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_018.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_017.jpg[/IMG]
Last picture below shows the closeup. Note that the 4 layers of 1/2 inch acrylic is slightly taller than the rod coupling.
End of writeup. Any comments, questions, concerns welcome :)
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200307riser/riser_v1_018.jpg[/IMG]
| piker28 | 07-08-2003 07:15 PM |
very cool but way to complicated for me:(
| satrya | 07-08-2003 07:32 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by piker28 [/i]
[B]very cool but way to complicated for me:( [/B][/QUOTE]
Sorry. Can't say it was simple. In fact it turned out to be much more complicated than I initially thought.
It can be simplified by:
(1) foregoing the aux turn signal,
(2) using a softer material to work with (don't know what though, maybe high density foam),
(3) not doing the 3D contouring
(4) covering the outer surface with some self-adhesive carbon-look sheet to avoid the extensive surface prep.
Or wait for Kartboy to produce a better riser than the zerosports.:p
[B]very cool but way to complicated for me:( [/B][/QUOTE]
Sorry. Can't say it was simple. In fact it turned out to be much more complicated than I initially thought.
It can be simplified by:
(1) foregoing the aux turn signal,
(2) using a softer material to work with (don't know what though, maybe high density foam),
(3) not doing the 3D contouring
(4) covering the outer surface with some self-adhesive carbon-look sheet to avoid the extensive surface prep.
Or wait for Kartboy to produce a better riser than the zerosports.:p
| piker28 | 07-08-2003 07:41 PM |
or you can make a set for me:cool: haha just kiddin to much work
| 128d | 07-08-2003 08:39 PM |
WOW, I take it your not a pencil pusher. Looks awesome. I would love to try this, but my problem is I suck at this sort of stuff.
| satrya | 07-08-2003 10:07 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by 128d [/i]
[B]WOW, I take it your not a pencil pusher. Looks awesome. I would love to try this, but my problem is I suck at this sort of stuff. [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. I take that as a compliment (not sure what "pencil pusher" means). You just need the right tool for the right job. Also, imho, I've described all of the critical issues & tips to make it work.
[SIZE=1]My full time job actually revolves around math and coding; and I'm only mentioning that as an endorsement that such a DIY is possible not only for the handy. It takes a lot of patience though. :) [/SIZE]
[B]WOW, I take it your not a pencil pusher. Looks awesome. I would love to try this, but my problem is I suck at this sort of stuff. [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. I take that as a compliment (not sure what "pencil pusher" means). You just need the right tool for the right job. Also, imho, I've described all of the critical issues & tips to make it work.
[SIZE=1]My full time job actually revolves around math and coding; and I'm only mentioning that as an endorsement that such a DIY is possible not only for the handy. It takes a lot of patience though. :) [/SIZE]
| 128d | 07-08-2003 10:57 PM |
By pencil pusher I meant from the work and craftsmanship you put into this I figured you have been doing this sort of thing for quite some time. (And it was a complement) After seeing your work I am planning on drawing something up on CAD and having it reproduced at a local machine shop.
| satrya | 07-08-2003 11:57 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by 128d [/i]
[B]After seeing your work I am planning on drawing something up on CAD and having it reproduced at a local machine shop. [/B][/QUOTE]
If you have the complete design in CAD, it would be relatively easy to have a rapid prototyping company fabricate a plastic prototype. Of course, there are also companies that can read of the CNC code translated from the CAD design, but I'm not sure if they can work on materials other than metal. In addition, the surface quality may not be as nice as the one created by rapid prototyping machines.
[SIZE=1]Edited for grammar[/SIZE]
[B]After seeing your work I am planning on drawing something up on CAD and having it reproduced at a local machine shop. [/B][/QUOTE]
If you have the complete design in CAD, it would be relatively easy to have a rapid prototyping company fabricate a plastic prototype. Of course, there are also companies that can read of the CNC code translated from the CAD design, but I'm not sure if they can work on materials other than metal. In addition, the surface quality may not be as nice as the one created by rapid prototyping machines.
[SIZE=1]Edited for grammar[/SIZE]
| Rebellion | 07-09-2003 01:32 PM |
satrya.. any pics of the aux. lights lit up?
| satrya | 07-09-2003 02:26 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Rebellion [/i]
[B]satrya.. any pics of the aux. lights lit up? [/B][/QUOTE]
I assume you mean the aux turn signals. Frankly, I haven't even started soldering the LEDs & resistors, & connecting the wiring. I'll post pictures once that's done. That's for sure.
[B]satrya.. any pics of the aux. lights lit up? [/B][/QUOTE]
I assume you mean the aux turn signals. Frankly, I haven't even started soldering the LEDs & resistors, & connecting the wiring. I'll post pictures once that's done. That's for sure.
| Handsdown | 07-10-2003 01:26 AM |
damn... that really cool.
how long did all this take you? do you have a shop of some sort? it seems like the 3d contouring would have been really hard and painstaking manually-
great job though. i like the wing raisers, but they accentuate the weirdness of the side fins that stick out... i like the more simple design of the GC wings and the STI wing... but oh well... maybe i'll come up with a DIY fix for that a couple years down the road.
how long did all this take you? do you have a shop of some sort? it seems like the 3d contouring would have been really hard and painstaking manually-
great job though. i like the wing raisers, but they accentuate the weirdness of the side fins that stick out... i like the more simple design of the GC wings and the STI wing... but oh well... maybe i'll come up with a DIY fix for that a couple years down the road.
| satrya | 07-10-2003 01:02 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Handsdown [/i]
[B]how long did all this take you?[/B][/QUOTE]
The work itself took about 2 months of free time, say, 6-10 hours a week.
[QUOTE][B]do you have a shop of some sort?[/B][/QUOTE]
No. The one thing that helped greatly was the availability of a drill press. Without one, I can't make good 2inch holes, trim the sides with a drum sander, 3D contour it, or cut the perforation holes around the perimeter for the rough cut (like a set of stamps separated by perforation holes). Having a shop would greatly simplify the process, especially with a bandsaw, and maybe a vertical mill.
[QUOTE][B]it seems like the 3d contouring would have been really hard and painstaking manually-[/B][/QUOTE]
I think of it more as a sculpting project. The 3D contouring is not really hard; it just takes time. Having a drum sander really helps.
[QUOTE][B]great job though. i like the wing raisers, but they accentuate the weirdness of the side fins that stick out... i like the more simple design of the GC wings and the STI wing... but oh well...[/B][/QUOTE]
Short of modifying the wing, I don't think there's anything one can do with the side fins. I used to own a GC impreza (not RS), and it took me a while to get used to the pontiac-like wing of the GD. This is all the more reason for me to decide to 3D the riser, as opposed to the straight (and much taller) zerosports version. Imho, the 3D contouring accentuates the raised trunk shoulder and some of the "vee" shapes on the rear side.
[QUOTE][B]maybe i'll come up with a DIY fix for that a couple years down the road. [/B][/QUOTE]
Do you mean trimming the GD wing? Capping the sides may not be simple, as the wing is hollow. Or perhaps I misunderstood what you meant.
[B]how long did all this take you?[/B][/QUOTE]
The work itself took about 2 months of free time, say, 6-10 hours a week.
[QUOTE][B]do you have a shop of some sort?[/B][/QUOTE]
No. The one thing that helped greatly was the availability of a drill press. Without one, I can't make good 2inch holes, trim the sides with a drum sander, 3D contour it, or cut the perforation holes around the perimeter for the rough cut (like a set of stamps separated by perforation holes). Having a shop would greatly simplify the process, especially with a bandsaw, and maybe a vertical mill.
[QUOTE][B]it seems like the 3d contouring would have been really hard and painstaking manually-[/B][/QUOTE]
I think of it more as a sculpting project. The 3D contouring is not really hard; it just takes time. Having a drum sander really helps.
[QUOTE][B]great job though. i like the wing raisers, but they accentuate the weirdness of the side fins that stick out... i like the more simple design of the GC wings and the STI wing... but oh well...[/B][/QUOTE]
Short of modifying the wing, I don't think there's anything one can do with the side fins. I used to own a GC impreza (not RS), and it took me a while to get used to the pontiac-like wing of the GD. This is all the more reason for me to decide to 3D the riser, as opposed to the straight (and much taller) zerosports version. Imho, the 3D contouring accentuates the raised trunk shoulder and some of the "vee" shapes on the rear side.
[QUOTE][B]maybe i'll come up with a DIY fix for that a couple years down the road. [/B][/QUOTE]
Do you mean trimming the GD wing? Capping the sides may not be simple, as the wing is hollow. Or perhaps I misunderstood what you meant.
| satrya | 07-14-2003 05:17 PM |
Added more photos on the first post
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Added 3 more photos on the first post, after the "before vs after" photos.
| grabber sti | 10-05-2003 02:10 PM |
nice job, have you got any pics of the signals working yet?:D
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