| BIGSKYWRX | 03-21-2007 07:10 PM |
ideas for raised letters on FHI 4 pots?
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I'm going to powder coat my 4/2 pots, but am trying to come up w/ ideas for the raised letters on the 4 pots (the rears are smooth and use a decal).
Ideas thus far:
1.- powdercoat them and leave them as is (all black)
2.- sand down flat the raised letters/lines (like the 06+ ones are currently) and use decals- wondering how I insure a nice smooth finish
3.- powdercoat them and find a high temp whitepaint and paint the letters/lines- I'm not having much luck finding a non-spray high-temp paint however and not sure how hand painting the letters/lines would look??
TIA
Ideas thus far:
1.- powdercoat them and leave them as is (all black)
2.- sand down flat the raised letters/lines (like the 06+ ones are currently) and use decals- wondering how I insure a nice smooth finish
3.- powdercoat them and find a high temp whitepaint and paint the letters/lines- I'm not having much luck finding a non-spray high-temp paint however and not sure how hand painting the letters/lines would look??
TIA
| Daishi00 | 03-21-2007 07:21 PM |
2) Sanding block will help you here.
3) Make up a stencil of the lettering and that way you can spraypaint them on.
3) Make up a stencil of the lettering and that way you can spraypaint them on.
| dangerousatom | 03-21-2007 07:27 PM |
A belt sander w/an emery ( for metal not wood ) belt will take then down . . . . finish with a 300+ grit on a vibrating palm sander to get rid of the straight line texture from the belt sander.
get high temp break caliper paint ..."spray paint kind".... put on some laytex gloves .......put the can in a plastic bag with a juice can opener .....open can like it was a can of HI-C from the bottem.....poor paint into glass masen jar for long storage
get high temp break caliper paint ..."spray paint kind".... put on some laytex gloves .......put the can in a plastic bag with a juice can opener .....open can like it was a can of HI-C from the bottem.....poor paint into glass masen jar for long storage
| 100_Percent_Juice | 03-21-2007 07:35 PM |
[quote=BIGSKYWRX;17438724]powdercoat them and find a high temp whitepaint and paint the letters/lines- I'm not having much luck finding a non-spray high-temp paint however and not sure how hand painting the letters/lines would look??
TIA[/quote]
Just spray the paint into a cup until you have enough to do the letters and then just use a small paint brush. It should be easy since the letters are raised. how will it look? Good enough from standing distance. I doubt anyone is gonna get down and be like "oh damn nice lettering on your brakes"
TIA[/quote]
Just spray the paint into a cup until you have enough to do the letters and then just use a small paint brush. It should be easy since the letters are raised. how will it look? Good enough from standing distance. I doubt anyone is gonna get down and be like "oh damn nice lettering on your brakes"
| BIGSKYWRX | 03-21-2007 07:47 PM |
good ideas guys- thanks. hadn't thought about using the spray paint and not spraying- that could work pretty well :)
Good tips on the sanding option as well- I knew it would be well worth my while posting :banana:
Good tips on the sanding option as well- I knew it would be well worth my while posting :banana:
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-07-2007 10:33 PM |
Well finally got around to this project, but in the end decided not to grind the letters off. I need to find someone w/ a steady hand :)
Found a good high temp (1000 degree) powder- even sold in "hobby" size- 1 lb can :) Rears look good w/ the decals.
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/BIGSKYWRX/4potcoated.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/BIGSKYWRX/2potscoated.jpg[/IMG]
Found a good high temp (1000 degree) powder- even sold in "hobby" size- 1 lb can :) Rears look good w/ the decals.
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/BIGSKYWRX/4potcoated.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/BIGSKYWRX/2potscoated.jpg[/IMG]
| sebhockey | 05-07-2007 11:58 PM |
Duplicolor makes a high temp brush on paint for calipers if you want to paint the raised letters. It's actually a kit, comes with stirring rod, brush and brake cleaner too. Can be bought at Wallyworld or just about any autoparts store. Would make it really easy to paint the letters.
Looks good so far, but if you really want to make it look good you should sand the fronts smooth besides the lettering. But really depends on how in depth you wanna go, besides if this is a car you actually drive like all us on here, go as is and maybe paint the raised lettering.
Looks good so far, but if you really want to make it look good you should sand the fronts smooth besides the lettering. But really depends on how in depth you wanna go, besides if this is a car you actually drive like all us on here, go as is and maybe paint the raised lettering.
| kennyvb | 05-08-2007 12:09 AM |
what kind of front rotors? weight?
| bobbyjimmy | 05-08-2007 01:42 AM |
^^^
Look like DBA5000.
Look like DBA5000.
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-08-2007 09:15 AM |
Never thought about sanding the calipers smooth- they are cast obviously, whereas the rears are aluminum and very smooth- next time :)
I'll look for the duplicolor kit- sounds perfect.
Yeah- DBA 5000's- they're the reason I started this project- I needed to replace the discs after last season and the hats were looking a little shabby-
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/BIGSKYWRX/dba5000hatremov-1.jpg[/IMG]
so I decided I would powdercoat the hats, then it was like well- the calipers aren't looking that spiffy either (I also wanted to peek inside and see how the dustboots/seals were fairing)- so I decided to do them as well.
The 5000's are ~ 12.7 lbs, the oe rotors ~ 14.0 lbs- not a lot of weight savings, but the 5000's are also slightly bigger rotors 295x25.4 vs 294x24mm. I've got a pretty detailed review in the parts review section, obviously I thought highly enough of them to replace them :)
I'll look for the duplicolor kit- sounds perfect.
Yeah- DBA 5000's- they're the reason I started this project- I needed to replace the discs after last season and the hats were looking a little shabby-
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/BIGSKYWRX/dba5000hatremov-1.jpg[/IMG]
so I decided I would powdercoat the hats, then it was like well- the calipers aren't looking that spiffy either (I also wanted to peek inside and see how the dustboots/seals were fairing)- so I decided to do them as well.
The 5000's are ~ 12.7 lbs, the oe rotors ~ 14.0 lbs- not a lot of weight savings, but the 5000's are also slightly bigger rotors 295x25.4 vs 294x24mm. I've got a pretty detailed review in the parts review section, obviously I thought highly enough of them to replace them :)
| DieselClown | 05-08-2007 10:06 AM |
I want to powdercoat my hats!
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-08-2007 11:33 AM |
the hats were easy :) remove the nuts (new ones provided w/ the new discs), bead blast and coat :)
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/BIGSKYWRX/dba5000blast.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/BIGSKYWRX/dba5000blast.jpg[/IMG]
| DieselClown | 05-08-2007 01:51 PM |
very nice...but Im thinking about cleaning them up really well and just painting them with the engine enamel. do you think it'll hold up to the heat?
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-08-2007 02:52 PM |
If the temp rating is high enough- track days the rotors get very (very) warm- the 1000 degree was the highest powder temp rating I could find- hopefully that is enough.
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-08-2007 08:58 PM |
Well duplicolot doesn't make the caliper paint kit in white, finding that most of the spray ones aren't offered in white either.
Did stumble on this- wonder what the chances of this working?
[url]http://ami.thomasnet.com/item/industrial-markers-high-temp-markers/high-temp-markers/17080?&seo=110[/url]
Did stumble on this- wonder what the chances of this working?
[url]http://ami.thomasnet.com/item/industrial-markers-high-temp-markers/high-temp-markers/17080?&seo=110[/url]
| jac04 | 05-08-2007 09:16 PM |
How about just sanding the powder coat off of the letters and then putting a coat of VHT clear over them. The letters will end up silver instead of white, but it's an option.
Also, Duplicolor makes their high-heat paint in white.
Dykem is a good name brand and their product looks good, but I have never used anything other than their hi-spot blue and layout fluids.
Also, Duplicolor makes their high-heat paint in white.
Dykem is a good name brand and their product looks good, but I have never used anything other than their hi-spot blue and layout fluids.
| iheartmysuby | 05-08-2007 09:20 PM |
paint the letters orange
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-08-2007 09:52 PM |
Would like to white just to match up w/ the rear- there is an outfit G2 that's makes a paint on caliper kit in white: [url]http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/g2/caliper_paint.jsp[/url]
The Duplicolor high temp stuff look like 500 degree, their caliper paint 900 degree
I might get a marker and test it out on something first :)
The Duplicolor high temp stuff look like 500 degree, their caliper paint 900 degree
I might get a marker and test it out on something first :)
| kennyvb | 05-09-2007 01:19 AM |
nice. can't go wrong with dbas.
i opted to grind down my retrofitted nissan calipers and paint them with duplicolor engine enamel. i used a heavy duty grinding wheel and finished off with a palm sander. :banana:
[img]http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1691/13mf7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/2285/12jk2.jpg[/img]
i opted to grind down my retrofitted nissan calipers and paint them with duplicolor engine enamel. i used a heavy duty grinding wheel and finished off with a palm sander. :banana:
[img]http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1691/13mf7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/2285/12jk2.jpg[/img]
| prometheum | 05-09-2007 01:33 AM |
^^nice!
| jac04 | 05-09-2007 08:10 AM |
[QUOTE=BIGSKYWRX;18007153]The Duplicolor high temp stuff look like 500 degree, their caliper paint 900 degree
[/QUOTE]
Engine Enamel = 500
High Heat = 1200
[/QUOTE]
Engine Enamel = 500
High Heat = 1200
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-09-2007 09:26 AM |
Ken- look nice- those the aluminum ones?
jac04- thanks- I googled high temp and came up w/ the engine- I'll dig further :)
jac04- thanks- I googled high temp and came up w/ the engine- I'll dig further :)
| kennyvb | 05-09-2007 10:01 AM |
Yep, aluminum. Accepts a 30mm rotor.
| DieselClown | 05-09-2007 10:31 AM |
[quote=BIGSKYWRX;18001682]If the temp rating is high enough- track days the rotors get very (very) warm- the 1000 degree was the highest powder temp rating I could find- hopefully that is enough.[/quote]
coool...I'm definitely going with silver high heat engine enamel. I think that stuff is rated at 1200 degrees so it should hold up. I'm receiving the suby 2 pots this week (hopefully) so I'm going to paint match them with the stoptech fronts! I also just received stoptech rear SS lines to match the front stoptech SS lines. I hope it'll be night and day with the new setup at the track going from stockers!
coool...I'm definitely going with silver high heat engine enamel. I think that stuff is rated at 1200 degrees so it should hold up. I'm receiving the suby 2 pots this week (hopefully) so I'm going to paint match them with the stoptech fronts! I also just received stoptech rear SS lines to match the front stoptech SS lines. I hope it'll be night and day with the new setup at the track going from stockers!
| DieselClown | 05-09-2007 10:32 AM |
kenny awesome job with the nissan calipers!!!!
| jac04 | 05-09-2007 12:04 PM |
[QUOTE=DieselClown;18011858]coool...I'm definitely going with silver high heat engine enamel. I think that stuff is rated at 1200 degrees so it should hold up. [/QUOTE]
I'll chime in on my experience with painting rotors. I have used the Duplicolor high-heat silver on rotors before with less than stellar results. The DC high-heat paints, especially the silver, seem to be very 'chaulky' and soft after they dry and they are not very durable. After using the silver, my rotors experienced rusting issues after just one winter.
I then switched to the Rust-Oleum black high heat BBQ paint (1200 F), and it works much better. I have been through 2 winters on my Legacy with no signs of rust yet. I also used it on my WRX rotors when I did the 4-pot/2-pot conversion.
I have also used the VHT caliper paint (900 F) on the rotors of my wife's A4 (since I wanted to paint them silver). So far, this paint seems to be holding up well and it is very durable. I painted/installed the rotors last fall, so they have only been through one winter, but so far so good.
I'll chime in on my experience with painting rotors. I have used the Duplicolor high-heat silver on rotors before with less than stellar results. The DC high-heat paints, especially the silver, seem to be very 'chaulky' and soft after they dry and they are not very durable. After using the silver, my rotors experienced rusting issues after just one winter.
I then switched to the Rust-Oleum black high heat BBQ paint (1200 F), and it works much better. I have been through 2 winters on my Legacy with no signs of rust yet. I also used it on my WRX rotors when I did the 4-pot/2-pot conversion.
I have also used the VHT caliper paint (900 F) on the rotors of my wife's A4 (since I wanted to paint them silver). So far, this paint seems to be holding up well and it is very durable. I painted/installed the rotors last fall, so they have only been through one winter, but so far so good.
| kennyvb | 05-09-2007 04:59 PM |
[QUOTE=DieselClown;18011877]kenny awesome job with the nissan calipers!!!![/QUOTE]
thanks. how are your stoptechs coming along?
thanks. how are your stoptechs coming along?
| DieselClown | 05-09-2007 05:10 PM |
[quote=jac04;18013174]
I then switched to the Rust-Oleum black high heat BBQ paint (1200 F), and it works much better. I have been through 2 winters on my Legacy with no signs of rust yet. I also used it on my WRX rotors when I did the 4-pot/2-pot conversion.
[/quote]
thanks for the info jac. Never thought about using BBQ paint!! I'm going to give that a try. Just curious, but would taking apart the tophat and inadvertantly loosening the bolts be bad for the rotor? A part of me wants to just play it safe and go the mask and paint route, but I also want a clean job.
[quote=kennyvb;18017452]thanks. how are your stoptechs coming along?[/quote]the stoptechs are on hold because my car is in another part of town. I repainted both calipers with VHT racing red paint this time around and I like that red much more (kind of like ferrari red) as opposed to the darker duplicolor (like the EVO brembos). Anyway, I wasn't able to sand them down as well as I would have liked, so now that the paint is dried, it's a bit lumpy in places. I applied 3-4 coats of clearcoat IMMEDIATELY after the last coat of red and it came out PERFECT! Do you think I can lightly sand them down again to smooth it out? I'm going to apply the stoptech decals I had made anyway and reclear them once again over that.
I then switched to the Rust-Oleum black high heat BBQ paint (1200 F), and it works much better. I have been through 2 winters on my Legacy with no signs of rust yet. I also used it on my WRX rotors when I did the 4-pot/2-pot conversion.
[/quote]
thanks for the info jac. Never thought about using BBQ paint!! I'm going to give that a try. Just curious, but would taking apart the tophat and inadvertantly loosening the bolts be bad for the rotor? A part of me wants to just play it safe and go the mask and paint route, but I also want a clean job.
[quote=kennyvb;18017452]thanks. how are your stoptechs coming along?[/quote]the stoptechs are on hold because my car is in another part of town. I repainted both calipers with VHT racing red paint this time around and I like that red much more (kind of like ferrari red) as opposed to the darker duplicolor (like the EVO brembos). Anyway, I wasn't able to sand them down as well as I would have liked, so now that the paint is dried, it's a bit lumpy in places. I applied 3-4 coats of clearcoat IMMEDIATELY after the last coat of red and it came out PERFECT! Do you think I can lightly sand them down again to smooth it out? I'm going to apply the stoptech decals I had made anyway and reclear them once again over that.
| jac04 | 05-09-2007 06:27 PM |
[QUOTE=DieselClown;18017577]Just curious, but would taking apart the tophat and inadvertantly loosening the bolts be bad for the rotor? [/QUOTE]
I'll defer this question to BIGSKYWRX since he has experience with the 2-piece rotors. I would assume that you should use new hardware if you remove the tophat.
I'll defer this question to BIGSKYWRX since he has experience with the 2-piece rotors. I would assume that you should use new hardware if you remove the tophat.
| kennyvb | 05-09-2007 07:06 PM |
[QUOTE=DieselClown;18017577]
the stoptechs are on hold because my car is in another part of town. I repainted both calipers with VHT racing red paint this time around and I like that red much more (kind of like ferrari red) as opposed to the darker duplicolor (like the EVO brembos). Anyway, I wasn't able to sand them down as well as I would have liked, so now that the paint is dried, it's a bit lumpy in places. I applied 3-4 coats of clearcoat IMMEDIATELY after the last coat of red and it came out PERFECT! Do you think I can lightly sand them down again to smooth it out? I'm going to apply the stoptech decals I had made anyway and reclear them once again over that.[/QUOTE]
I'd try rubbing compound. It can be less abrasive and reduces the chance of going through the clear.
the stoptechs are on hold because my car is in another part of town. I repainted both calipers with VHT racing red paint this time around and I like that red much more (kind of like ferrari red) as opposed to the darker duplicolor (like the EVO brembos). Anyway, I wasn't able to sand them down as well as I would have liked, so now that the paint is dried, it's a bit lumpy in places. I applied 3-4 coats of clearcoat IMMEDIATELY after the last coat of red and it came out PERFECT! Do you think I can lightly sand them down again to smooth it out? I'm going to apply the stoptech decals I had made anyway and reclear them once again over that.[/QUOTE]
I'd try rubbing compound. It can be less abrasive and reduces the chance of going through the clear.
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-09-2007 08:43 PM |
Not sure what two piece rotors you have, but DBA insists you swap out the lock nuts (reuse the bolts/washers) when removing/reinstalling the hat- I'm sure they could get you a bag for pretty cheap. If they are different brand, check w/ the manufacturer before removing.
| robbieshonda | 05-09-2007 09:02 PM |
PC black w/ black letters
or use red letters.
or use red letters.
| N'CTRL | 05-09-2007 09:24 PM |
Here are mine. They were done like this before the STi hit US shores.
[IMG]http://photologue.dgoreck.org/albums/album61/8_G.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://photologue.dgoreck.org/albums/Untitled/Picture_12.sized.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://photologue.dgoreck.org/albums/album61/8_G.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://photologue.dgoreck.org/albums/Untitled/Picture_12.sized.jpg[/IMG]
| jac04 | 05-10-2007 07:57 AM |
^^Yikes, those wheels make the 4-pots look so tiny.
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-10-2007 09:24 AM |
the calipers came out good though :)
| DieselClown | 05-10-2007 10:02 AM |
they're for stoptech rotors. I think I'll just mask it and spray with BBQ paint. kenny..for the compound, the thing is there are areas on the calipers that are VERY lumpy, so I'll try thr compount first, but my feeling is that I have to sand it down. What grit sandpaper would you recommend?
| kennyvb | 05-10-2007 10:49 AM |
Something really fine like 1500 grit or even higher. If it was lumpy before applying the clear, you're going to have to sand down through the clear and reclear. Sorry, you might have to redo altogether. Preparing the surface is key in painting. I thought you just had orange peel on the clear so rubbing compound would have been safer.
Some people say you sand AFTER EVERY color coat if you want an extra smooth appearance. If the color has metallic flake, you don't sand the last coat. Obviously this takes a long time.
Some people say you sand AFTER EVERY color coat if you want an extra smooth appearance. If the color has metallic flake, you don't sand the last coat. Obviously this takes a long time.
| DieselClown | 05-10-2007 11:16 AM |
im fine with redoing them. I need to apply more clear anyay after I put on the decals so that's no biggie. The thing is I prepped them up perfectly the first time around, but when I resanded the bubbled paint, I did it with limited lighting and thought it was good to go. It wasn't until I painted a few coats that I noticed the imperfection. I'll try sanding it down this weekend with the 1500 and if it eats through the paint, I'll just respray it. Better to do it better now then have to take it off the car later.
| IllNastyImpreza | 05-10-2007 12:40 PM |
just curious... how do you bake the calipers without destroying the seals ?
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-10-2007 02:42 PM |
[QUOTE=IllNastyImpreza;18027477]just curious... how do you bake the calipers without destroying the seals ?[/QUOTE]
I purposely keep the dust boots/pistons/seals in- I had mine bead blasted and didn't want any contaniments from that, baking at 450 probably wouldn't hurt things on it's own, but as you spray the coating it's getting on the boots and then they are pretty much done for then anyways. So after the coating was applied and cured, I tore them down and rebuilt them. Rebuild kits are only $25 for a pair of calipers, mine had seen numerous track days so I thought it would be worth rebuilding anyways.
I purposely keep the dust boots/pistons/seals in- I had mine bead blasted and didn't want any contaniments from that, baking at 450 probably wouldn't hurt things on it's own, but as you spray the coating it's getting on the boots and then they are pretty much done for then anyways. So after the coating was applied and cured, I tore them down and rebuilt them. Rebuild kits are only $25 for a pair of calipers, mine had seen numerous track days so I thought it would be worth rebuilding anyways.
| jezzy | 05-10-2007 07:50 PM |
[QUOTE=kennyvb;18009073]nice. can't go wrong with dbas.
i opted to grind down my retrofitted nissan calipers and paint them with duplicolor engine enamel. i used a heavy duty grinding wheel and finished off with a palm sander. :banana:
[img]http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1691/13mf7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/2285/12jk2.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
Dude ! great job ! I was also wondering if the nissan calipers would fit. Direct bolt on ? special brackets required ? Front and rears ?
i opted to grind down my retrofitted nissan calipers and paint them with duplicolor engine enamel. i used a heavy duty grinding wheel and finished off with a palm sander. :banana:
[img]http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1691/13mf7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/2285/12jk2.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
Dude ! great job ! I was also wondering if the nissan calipers would fit. Direct bolt on ? special brackets required ? Front and rears ?
| kennyvb | 05-10-2007 08:11 PM |
Thanks. Even though the Nissan calipers look nearly identical to and use the same pads as the Subaru counterparts, neither front nor rear calipers are bolt-on and use as-is.
Here's a comparison of the Nissan w/ a custom bracket and Subaru front 4-pots. This particular bracket requires no modification to factory components.
[img]http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1407/img4219fa4.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/6941/img4229oq9.jpg[/img]
This is a pic of a unaltered Nissan 2-Pot [b]bolted[/b] to rear backing plate on an 06 WRX (290x18mm rotor). So yes, the rears technically bolt-on with the correct backing plate (ie. factory on 04-07 STi, 06-07 WRX) OR with the Kartboy adapter on pre-06 models [b]BUT[/b] notice where the caliper is located. The pad is not making full-contact with the rotor which means the Nissan 2-pot caliper is actually "taller" than the Subaru 2-pot. In other words, it'll need a larger diameter rotor or a "shorter" and totally custom bracket for pre-06 models for use with the same 290x18mm rotor.
[img]http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/5761/2sl5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/7363/1ap7.jpg[/img]
Here's a comparison of the Nissan w/ a custom bracket and Subaru front 4-pots. This particular bracket requires no modification to factory components.
[img]http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1407/img4219fa4.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/6941/img4229oq9.jpg[/img]
This is a pic of a unaltered Nissan 2-Pot [b]bolted[/b] to rear backing plate on an 06 WRX (290x18mm rotor). So yes, the rears technically bolt-on with the correct backing plate (ie. factory on 04-07 STi, 06-07 WRX) OR with the Kartboy adapter on pre-06 models [b]BUT[/b] notice where the caliper is located. The pad is not making full-contact with the rotor which means the Nissan 2-pot caliper is actually "taller" than the Subaru 2-pot. In other words, it'll need a larger diameter rotor or a "shorter" and totally custom bracket for pre-06 models for use with the same 290x18mm rotor.
[img]http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/5761/2sl5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/7363/1ap7.jpg[/img]
| jezzy | 05-10-2007 08:16 PM |
True.. easy fix ! Get larger dia rotors !
Custom front adaptor = kartboy's one ? Or you manufactured a black powercoated one ? looks great..!
Any real price difference between the OE nissan vs the OE subaru ? worth the savings ?
thanks!
Custom front adaptor = kartboy's one ? Or you manufactured a black powercoated one ? looks great..!
Any real price difference between the OE nissan vs the OE subaru ? worth the savings ?
thanks!
| Dforce | 05-10-2007 10:20 PM |
[QUOTE=jezzy;18033013]Any real price difference between the OE nissan vs the OE subaru ? worth the savings ?
thanks![/QUOTE]
I have the subaru 4 pot that came in black/unpainted and they are heavy compared to the nissan alluminum calipers.
I also found some nissan calipers for cheap on ebay, then you could have someone fabricate some brackets. In the end I believe it'll be cheaper to buy the Nissan calipers.
thanks![/QUOTE]
I have the subaru 4 pot that came in black/unpainted and they are heavy compared to the nissan alluminum calipers.
I also found some nissan calipers for cheap on ebay, then you could have someone fabricate some brackets. In the end I believe it'll be cheaper to buy the Nissan calipers.
| kennyvb | 05-10-2007 10:43 PM |
The front brackets are custom not Kartboy. Kartboy makes brackets for just the rear.
Yep, the aluminum Nissans are lighter and less expensive. They go for about $200 used for both front and rear.
Yep, the aluminum Nissans are lighter and less expensive. They go for about $200 used for both front and rear.
| N'CTRL | 05-11-2007 12:20 AM |
Where do you go to have the brackets made and what was the cost?
| DieselClown | 05-11-2007 12:29 AM |
can any of you guys who have access to the suby rear 2 pots measure how much space is on the rectangle where the SUBARU decal goes? I need to have decals made ASAP and need measurements. Thanks!!! :alien:
| kennyvb | 05-11-2007 12:43 AM |
A machine shop should be able to make you brackets. I'm not sure about pricing. The rotors I'm using are larger than stock (DBA 315x30mm vs 294x24mm). You could try mating the Nissan caliper with STi rotors (326x30mm) or LGT rotors (316x30mm). Keep in mind there are also Nissan calipers that accept 26mm width rotors.
| jac04 | 05-11-2007 09:07 AM |
[QUOTE=DieselClown;18035187]can any of you guys who have access to the suby rear 2 pots measure how much space is on the rectangle where the SUBARU decal goes? I need to have decals made ASAP and need measurements. Thanks!!! :alien:[/QUOTE]
If you need the SUBARU decals, just contact glilly at Undergroung Graphics. I worked with him on the decals and they are a perfect match to the original lettering.;)
Otherwise, the overall 2-pot decal measures 12mm high x 60mm long. The flat rectangular surface is about 14mm x 61mm (estimating, but it should be pretty close). The ends of the rectangle are slightly rounded, so I would use the 12mm x 60mm as your max overall size.
[IMG]http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/100_0475.jpg[/IMG]
If you need the SUBARU decals, just contact glilly at Undergroung Graphics. I worked with him on the decals and they are a perfect match to the original lettering.;)
Otherwise, the overall 2-pot decal measures 12mm high x 60mm long. The flat rectangular surface is about 14mm x 61mm (estimating, but it should be pretty close). The ends of the rectangle are slightly rounded, so I would use the 12mm x 60mm as your max overall size.
[IMG]http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/100_0475.jpg[/IMG]
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-11-2007 09:36 AM |
[QUOTE=DieselClown;18035187]can any of you guys who have access to the suby rear 2 pots measure how much space is on the rectangle where the SUBARU decal goes? I need to have decals made ASAP and need measurements. Thanks!!! :alien:[/QUOTE]
that's where I got my decals as well :)
the 300zx TT rear rotors are 297x18 thus the discrepency w/ our 290x18 rotors, interestingly their front rotors are shorter (but wider) 280x32
that's where I got my decals as well :)
the 300zx TT rear rotors are 297x18 thus the discrepency w/ our 290x18 rotors, interestingly their front rotors are shorter (but wider) 280x32
| DieselClown | 05-11-2007 09:42 AM |
thanks jac! I'm actually making a custom decal there so I need to play around with it first! :) I hope it works out.
| DieselClown | 05-12-2007 03:13 PM |
sorry to hijack, but since all you brake guys are viewing this thread already...can you guys help me out. I took my time sanding everything down, for a second time (didn't like thd dark red duplicolor paint so I bought the VHT racing red this time around) repainted, baked for 2 hours, waited 7 days, and today, I applied the STOPTECH decal on the caliper, and began to reclear it, in VERY light coats. After the 3rd coat, the paint began to crinkle again, but ver lightly, so needless to say I immediately stopped. Is there any saving this? I figured I'd let it dry, bake them and then lightly sand down a thin layer of clearcoat, but do you guys think it'll work or should i do it all over again? I have no problem with that, but I can't stand the downtime already. I've had these brakes for over a month and have yet to put them on!! :(
here's a before, during and after...for those of you who didn't see.
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dieselclown/0423072107b-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dieselclown/0423072107a-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dieselclown/2calipers.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dieselclown/caliper.jpg[/IMG]
here's a before, during and after...for those of you who didn't see.
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dieselclown/0423072107b-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dieselclown/0423072107a-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dieselclown/2calipers.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/dieselclown/caliper.jpg[/IMG]
| DieselClown | 05-12-2007 03:15 PM |
the pictures aren't very clear, but it's got the "crinkle look" all over both calipers.
| DieselClown | 05-12-2007 05:23 PM |
ok they dried so I lightly sanded them down. I also finally figured out that MY interpretation of LIGHT coats may be the root of my problems LOL! After sanding them down lightly and getting rid of the uneven surface, I sprayed what seemed like an insignificant amount of clearcoat on them, waited 25 mins, then sprayed another coat. I did this 3 times already and they are coming out PERFECTLY!
| BIGSKYWRX | 05-12-2007 05:57 PM |
good to hear :)
I bought some white high temp (1200) paint and some artist brushes- will be giving the SUBARU a go maybe tomorrow.
I bought some white high temp (1200) paint and some artist brushes- will be giving the SUBARU a go maybe tomorrow.
| DieselClown | 05-12-2007 06:35 PM |
just curious, but is there a curing timeframe? I'm actually doing the calipers this time in myu friend's garage and his oven is off limits. I was going to finisht he last few coats of clear and then drive them over to my apt and bake them.
| DieselClown | 05-12-2007 08:03 PM |
ok, transferred them into my oven and am now baking them at 205 for 1.5 hours as that seems to be the happy medium of all the different recommended temps/time from members. I hope the ugly orange peel effect goes away.
| DieselClown | 05-12-2007 10:54 PM |
LOL I give up. i took the calipers out just a moment ago and there are parts on the caliper where the paint bubbled. That and the white STOPTECH decal is now yellow. this is starting to get annoying. i think I'm going to redo them one more time.
| jac04 | 05-13-2007 10:44 AM |
The VHT paint seems to be tricky stuff as far as recoating. After painting my calipers with the VHT red, one of my 2-pots fell over and got a mark in it - D'Oh! I let it dry for a week, then I carefully sanded the spot smooth. The can said nothing about oven curing being a requirement, so I didn't do it. When I went to recoat the caliper, it immediately started to get the crinkle effect. I put on a few light coats and hoped for the best, but the end result was a slightly crinkled finish. I let it dry for another week, then I used some Meguiar's swirl remover followed by cleaner wax to remove the imperfections and it came out perfect. When polishing the caliper, the paint still seemed a little on the soft side. I think that helped me get rid of the crinkle. In fact, the picture I posted above is the offending caliper. Not bad, huh.
In the end,it was this experience that detered me from trying to apply a clear coat over my decals.
Now, back to your problem. I would try to get all the VHT paint off of your calipers and start over. See if you can put down both the color and clear coats within the original recoat time. The tricky part is going to be getting the decals in place without goofing up the color coat.
Good luck, and remember, you're actually having fun.;)
In the end,it was this experience that detered me from trying to apply a clear coat over my decals.
Now, back to your problem. I would try to get all the VHT paint off of your calipers and start over. See if you can put down both the color and clear coats within the original recoat time. The tricky part is going to be getting the decals in place without goofing up the color coat.
Good luck, and remember, you're actually having fun.;)
| Siper2 | 05-13-2007 11:01 AM |
kenny,
Don't think we've spoken before, but your gold paint job on the converted Nissan calipers is impressive. Nicely done. :)
Don't think we've spoken before, but your gold paint job on the converted Nissan calipers is impressive. Nicely done. :)
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