| merlot | 05-01-2006 09:20 AM |
What essential go fast STX mod would you buy?
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I run my basically stock WRX in STX. My dedicated tires are stock size Azenis RT-215s on OEM wheels and I have slotted rotors and SS lines. With 85K on the clock, I'm debating on Koni inserts with the assumption I should replace my shocks soon. However, they haven't shown signs of wear yet.
With that in mind, which relatively cheap go-fast mod(s) will make the biggest impact?
Thanks!
[EDIT] I should have mentioned that I'd like to keep a compliant ride and not loose suspension independance. If I went then Koni inset route, I'd consider following up with JDM pink lowering springs (200F/185R, 3/4in drop) and 22mm FSB and adjustable 22mm RSB.
Considering the above, should Koni's be my next mode, or should I go for the something cheaper (keeping with my relatively cheap go-fast mods suggestion) like the sway bars?
With that in mind, which relatively cheap go-fast mod(s) will make the biggest impact?
Thanks!
[EDIT] I should have mentioned that I'd like to keep a compliant ride and not loose suspension independance. If I went then Koni inset route, I'd consider following up with JDM pink lowering springs (200F/185R, 3/4in drop) and 22mm FSB and adjustable 22mm RSB.
Considering the above, should Koni's be my next mode, or should I go for the something cheaper (keeping with my relatively cheap go-fast mods suggestion) like the sway bars?
| mccanixx | 05-01-2006 09:28 AM |
I think your on the right track. Tires, suspension and sway bars allow you to maintain speed. Which will gain you more than anything else.
just my .02
just my .02
| planetarygear | 05-01-2006 09:36 AM |
I bigger rear sway bar will help your car rotate better. Then go for coilovers and corner weighing. Then claw back some power with an uppipe, highflow downpipe and Cobb's STX map. Another cheap mod is relocate you battery to the trunk, but do this before corner weighing.
Paul
Paul
| Crash477 | 05-01-2006 10:06 AM |
remove your intake silencer too, if you havent already. Get some steering rack bushings from [url]www.boxer4racing.com[/url] !
| MulletSlayer | 05-01-2006 10:21 AM |
If your Azenis are 205s, then bigger tires would help you the most. You should be able to get up to 225 easily on the stock rims.
If you aren't going to buy stiffer springs then a front sway bar would be the next thing I would buy after new tires. Then springs and camber plates or coilovers with camber plates would be next. A rear bar helps too, but you want to work on getting as much traction on the front of the car first.
If you aren't going to buy stiffer springs then a front sway bar would be the next thing I would buy after new tires. Then springs and camber plates or coilovers with camber plates would be next. A rear bar helps too, but you want to work on getting as much traction on the front of the car first.
| Imprezivblue | 05-01-2006 10:22 AM |
shocks, springs, swaybars, or coilovers and sway bars. . . Just make sure if you're going the spring and shock route that the springs and shocks match well otherwise you will have the issue of blown shocks from too stiff a spring rate or an uncomfortable ride all the time on the street. If you're looking for a "quick fix" sway bars aren't a bad start at all. . .
| merlot | 05-01-2006 10:41 AM |
Thanks for the advice so far. I've updated my original post about a path I'm considering taking.
| tuskenraider | 05-01-2006 11:21 AM |
[QUOTE]With that in mind, which relatively cheap go-fast mod(s) will make the biggest impact?
[/QUOTE] Fatter tires and an alignment. At 85K miles on the shocks they most likely could use replacement. But then at the same time you'll want to do springs, camber plates as well which will drive up the cost, but would be smartest to do all at once.
[/QUOTE] Fatter tires and an alignment. At 85K miles on the shocks they most likely could use replacement. But then at the same time you'll want to do springs, camber plates as well which will drive up the cost, but would be smartest to do all at once.
| makofoto | 05-01-2006 11:24 AM |
EVO AX driving school
| merlot | 05-01-2006 12:10 PM |
[QUOTE=tuskenraider]Fatter tires and an alignment.[/QUOTE]
I'd like to stick with my current tires as they have plenty of tread. I had a performance alignment done last weekend.
[QUOTE=makofoto]EVO AX driving school[/QUOTE]
Completed Phase 1 last year. They told me I was ready for phase 2 after my first run. :rolleyes:
I'd like to stick with my current tires as they have plenty of tread. I had a performance alignment done last weekend.
[QUOTE=makofoto]EVO AX driving school[/QUOTE]
Completed Phase 1 last year. They told me I was ready for phase 2 after my first run. :rolleyes:
| DrBiggly | 05-01-2006 12:31 PM |
The single biggest STX mod is to add (or retain) front camber any way possible. Doing this does two things:
1) Adds overall grip to the vehicle for turning
2) Changes ratio of front grip to rear grip and will make the car's limits higher before pushing
Springs, bars, camber plates, ride height, camber bolts, coilovers, and alignment all come into play. Everything else behind focusing on this one particular aspect of the car's setup is ancillary. :)
-Biggly
1) Adds overall grip to the vehicle for turning
2) Changes ratio of front grip to rear grip and will make the car's limits higher before pushing
Springs, bars, camber plates, ride height, camber bolts, coilovers, and alignment all come into play. Everything else behind focusing on this one particular aspect of the car's setup is ancillary. :)
-Biggly
| tuskenraider | 05-01-2006 12:52 PM |
Well swaybars look to be your best upgrade at this point. You also could get some steering rack bushings as well for a measely $30.
| Student Driver | 05-01-2006 02:05 PM |
Normally tires are the first, but you have some pretty good ones. I had the 215s in 205/55-16 before I got my current set.
1. Skillz
2. Harness
3. Better springs (I have Prodrives) and camber plates (I have PDE)
4. Better sway bars (front is favored as the first mod, and I have a Whiteline 22mm front bar, but a 24 or 26 would have been better)
5. Better wheels and tires (I have 5Zigen FN01R-C 17x8 with 235/40-17 Hankook R-S2s)
6. Skillz
1. Skillz
2. Harness
3. Better springs (I have Prodrives) and camber plates (I have PDE)
4. Better sway bars (front is favored as the first mod, and I have a Whiteline 22mm front bar, but a 24 or 26 would have been better)
5. Better wheels and tires (I have 5Zigen FN01R-C 17x8 with 235/40-17 Hankook R-S2s)
6. Skillz
| Butt Dyno | 05-01-2006 02:17 PM |
[QUOTE=MSD]I'd like to stick with my current tires as they have plenty of tread. I had a performance alignment done last weekend.[/QUOTE]
What specs?
What specs?
| merlot | 05-01-2006 02:37 PM |
[QUOTE=ButtDyno]What specs?[/QUOTE]
Maxed out negative camber that stock allows. If I recall:
-1.5 front camber
0 toe all around
I forget what he got in the rear. He argues he couldn't adjust it, but once he looked at it he did get as much negative camber as he could.
Maxed out negative camber that stock allows. If I recall:
-1.5 front camber
0 toe all around
I forget what he got in the rear. He argues he couldn't adjust it, but once he looked at it he did get as much negative camber as he could.
| DrBiggly | 05-01-2006 03:12 PM |
MSD,
For best grip and rotation just add camber bolts up front and in the rear.
Rear stock is not normally adjustable; front is.
Camber bolts in rear == adjustment. Just set it to the min; should drop about a degree off and leave you around -1.0 to -0.5 in the rear.
Add one in the front to the lower bolt and set it to min; then you gain another degree up front to work with, so your max would likely be about -2.4 up front.
The 14mm cam bolts don't "hold" and typically slip, thus the recommendation to set them to min/max and utilize the primary (stock) cam bolt up front.
This should cost you around $75 for the cost of the bolts, then another alignment. :)
-Biggly
For best grip and rotation just add camber bolts up front and in the rear.
Rear stock is not normally adjustable; front is.
Camber bolts in rear == adjustment. Just set it to the min; should drop about a degree off and leave you around -1.0 to -0.5 in the rear.
Add one in the front to the lower bolt and set it to min; then you gain another degree up front to work with, so your max would likely be about -2.4 up front.
The 14mm cam bolts don't "hold" and typically slip, thus the recommendation to set them to min/max and utilize the primary (stock) cam bolt up front.
This should cost you around $75 for the cost of the bolts, then another alignment. :)
-Biggly
| Mykl | 05-01-2006 08:47 PM |
I know you mentioned the STi Pinks, but why not a set of Prodrives? From what I understand they handle nicely, and since they're progressive they'll give you a nice ride on the street. Seems like the best compromise.
| gharari | 05-02-2006 01:07 AM |
+1 for front camber plates and alignment. Neg front camber is your friend.
| Scooby Freak | 05-02-2006 07:43 AM |
I would vote for the swaybars. A big front swaybar will help you get through a slalom and a big rear swaybar will help you get around a sweeper. With a bigger rear swaybar, you can get the car rotated early in the turn and get on the gas much earlier coming out.
The rear camber isn't adjustable, but if you decide to change that, you don't want as much negative as possible. When you can't add more grip to the front, you have to reduce grip in the rear to get a good balance.
-jeff
The rear camber isn't adjustable, but if you decide to change that, you don't want as much negative as possible. When you can't add more grip to the front, you have to reduce grip in the rear to get a good balance.
-jeff
| Zoinks | 05-02-2006 09:15 AM |
Bigger front swaybar, although do both f/r if you can. I had a 22m front bar relatively early on and it was a big help with the soft suspension. I would say go with the big 29mm Whiteline or 32mm Stranoparts bars.
[quote=Mykl]I know you mentioned the STi Pinks, but why not a set of Prodrives? From what I understand they handle nicely, and since they're progressive they'll give you a nice ride on the street. Seems like the best compromise.[/quote]
For the bugeyes the Prodrives were linear, not progressive.
Before I got coilovers I had the Prodrive springs on stock struts and I loved them. But maybe skip springs/shocks and focus on tires/alignment/bars first if you think there's any chance you might want to go all out in the future.
[quote=Mykl]I know you mentioned the STi Pinks, but why not a set of Prodrives? From what I understand they handle nicely, and since they're progressive they'll give you a nice ride on the street. Seems like the best compromise.[/quote]
For the bugeyes the Prodrives were linear, not progressive.
Before I got coilovers I had the Prodrive springs on stock struts and I loved them. But maybe skip springs/shocks and focus on tires/alignment/bars first if you think there's any chance you might want to go all out in the future.
| Crash477 | 05-02-2006 09:27 AM |
If you go with a large FSB like the 32mm bar, like I have, then be sure to match it with a large rear bar. I have mine paired to a 24mm RSB, and I am considering selling the 32mm FSB cause it may be too large. But I am going ot try some different things first.
| merlot | 05-02-2006 09:48 AM |
Thanks for advice all.
Looks like I'll go with camber bolts and swaybars. I don't think I want to go too big because I don't want to lose suspension independence. I'm thinking 22mm front and back should give me a noticable improvement, and later adding springs will help out. My idea is balance out the roll stiffness using both swaybars and springs (both on the milder side), while keeping a compliant, comfortable ride. Will this work or should I shoot for bigger bars?
Looks like I'll go with camber bolts and swaybars. I don't think I want to go too big because I don't want to lose suspension independence. I'm thinking 22mm front and back should give me a noticable improvement, and later adding springs will help out. My idea is balance out the roll stiffness using both swaybars and springs (both on the milder side), while keeping a compliant, comfortable ride. Will this work or should I shoot for bigger bars?
| Calamity Jesus | 05-02-2006 11:11 AM |
[QUOTE=MSD]Thanks for advice all.
Looks like I'll go with camber bolts and swaybars. I don't think I want to go too big because I don't want to lose suspension independence.[/quote]Why? Are you driving up and down rough gravel roads very often? I'm running 25mm(f)/22mm(r) bars on my RS with stock springs. Wheel travel isn't hindered in the front (a little in the rear) and the only time I regret it is when trying to go fast over washboard gravel roads. On pavement (any kind.. potholed, pitted, smooth, undulating) it is the single best improvment I've made to my car. Grip in sweepers is way up and transitions are rediculous (for the $$).
[quote=MSD]I'm thinking 22mm front and back should give me a noticable improvement, and later adding springs will help out. My idea is balance out the roll stiffness using both swaybars and springs (both on the milder side), while keeping a compliant, comfortable ride. Will this work or should I shoot for bigger bars?[/QUOTE]If you just plan to upgrade to mild street springs (pinks, prodrives) or stay with the stock springs, the big bar is the way to go. If you're going to be going to stiff springs or coil-overs, the medium bars are the way to go as you won't need them as much at that point.
Go for the big bars.. if you really don't like them, trading with someone is easy. :banana:
Looks like I'll go with camber bolts and swaybars. I don't think I want to go too big because I don't want to lose suspension independence.[/quote]Why? Are you driving up and down rough gravel roads very often? I'm running 25mm(f)/22mm(r) bars on my RS with stock springs. Wheel travel isn't hindered in the front (a little in the rear) and the only time I regret it is when trying to go fast over washboard gravel roads. On pavement (any kind.. potholed, pitted, smooth, undulating) it is the single best improvment I've made to my car. Grip in sweepers is way up and transitions are rediculous (for the $$).
[quote=MSD]I'm thinking 22mm front and back should give me a noticable improvement, and later adding springs will help out. My idea is balance out the roll stiffness using both swaybars and springs (both on the milder side), while keeping a compliant, comfortable ride. Will this work or should I shoot for bigger bars?[/QUOTE]If you just plan to upgrade to mild street springs (pinks, prodrives) or stay with the stock springs, the big bar is the way to go. If you're going to be going to stiff springs or coil-overs, the medium bars are the way to go as you won't need them as much at that point.
Go for the big bars.. if you really don't like them, trading with someone is easy. :banana:
| Jaxx | 05-02-2006 11:47 AM |
#1 stock sized tires is a big mistake if this is dedicated race rubber the 215/40/16 (gives you 4.11 gearing) or 225/??/16 is a much better choice
#2 springs +struts vs realy coilovers is night and day
to add to the list
uppipe/turboback/ stx tune
lightned flywheel
lightened /underdriven pullies
depending on your driving style a front sway bar
a harness -probblay the best mod allows you to concentrate on driving not holding yourself in the car
#2 springs +struts vs realy coilovers is night and day
to add to the list
uppipe/turboback/ stx tune
lightned flywheel
lightened /underdriven pullies
depending on your driving style a front sway bar
a harness -probblay the best mod allows you to concentrate on driving not holding yourself in the car
| KSwrxWAGON | 05-02-2006 11:56 AM |
[QUOTE=MSD]Thanks for advice all.
Looks like I'll go with camber bolts and swaybars. I don't think I want to go too big because I don't want to lose suspension independence. I'm thinking 22mm front and back should give me a noticable improvement, and later adding springs will help out. My idea is balance out the roll stiffness using both swaybars and springs (both on the milder side), while keeping a compliant, comfortable ride. Will this work or should I shoot for bigger bars?[/QUOTE]
Good call on the camber bolts! I have pretty much a stock suspension with the aftermarket camber bolts on the bottom position and 25 mm Hotckis bars on the front and back. I really like how the car handles at autox's and don't think it's so much that the suspension independence is gone. On concrete you may lift a rear wheel occasionally. If you go the coilover route with uber-stiff springs, the smaller bar may be a better choice.
+1 for larger bars on stockish suspension.
Looks like I'll go with camber bolts and swaybars. I don't think I want to go too big because I don't want to lose suspension independence. I'm thinking 22mm front and back should give me a noticable improvement, and later adding springs will help out. My idea is balance out the roll stiffness using both swaybars and springs (both on the milder side), while keeping a compliant, comfortable ride. Will this work or should I shoot for bigger bars?[/QUOTE]
Good call on the camber bolts! I have pretty much a stock suspension with the aftermarket camber bolts on the bottom position and 25 mm Hotckis bars on the front and back. I really like how the car handles at autox's and don't think it's so much that the suspension independence is gone. On concrete you may lift a rear wheel occasionally. If you go the coilover route with uber-stiff springs, the smaller bar may be a better choice.
+1 for larger bars on stockish suspension.
| Zoinks | 05-02-2006 02:47 PM |
[QUOTE=Jaxx]a harness -probblay the best mod allows you to concentrate on driving not holding yourself in the car[/QUOTE]
Alternately, since we're discussing bang-for-the-buck, get a CG-Lock for $40. I'm a big fan of mine.
[Quote=MSD]Looks like I'll go with camber bolts and swaybars. I don't think I want to go too big because I don't want to lose suspension independence. I'm thinking 22mm front and back should give me a noticable improvement, and later adding springs will help out. My idea is balance out the roll stiffness using both swaybars and springs (both on the milder side), while keeping a compliant, comfortable ride. Will this work or should I shoot for bigger bars?[/quote]
I had the Cusco 22mm front/22-24mm rear bars and Prodrive springs with 225/45/17 Azenis as my setup for a while and - IMO - the car was a BLAST. It wasn't as competitive as more aggressive setup, but it felt great to me and it was a lot of fun to drive. I could go a long way towards adjusting the balance of the car by just playing with the rear bar and tire pressure settings. Daily driving was great too - firm but not punishing. Even the drop looked good. For me it was a perfect compromise setup - if I wasn't trying to be faster, I probably would have left the car that way.
But, I [i]didn't[/i] leave the car that way, so do think about whether you might want to go more aggressive in the future. :)
Alternately, since we're discussing bang-for-the-buck, get a CG-Lock for $40. I'm a big fan of mine.
[Quote=MSD]Looks like I'll go with camber bolts and swaybars. I don't think I want to go too big because I don't want to lose suspension independence. I'm thinking 22mm front and back should give me a noticable improvement, and later adding springs will help out. My idea is balance out the roll stiffness using both swaybars and springs (both on the milder side), while keeping a compliant, comfortable ride. Will this work or should I shoot for bigger bars?[/quote]
I had the Cusco 22mm front/22-24mm rear bars and Prodrive springs with 225/45/17 Azenis as my setup for a while and - IMO - the car was a BLAST. It wasn't as competitive as more aggressive setup, but it felt great to me and it was a lot of fun to drive. I could go a long way towards adjusting the balance of the car by just playing with the rear bar and tire pressure settings. Daily driving was great too - firm but not punishing. Even the drop looked good. For me it was a perfect compromise setup - if I wasn't trying to be faster, I probably would have left the car that way.
But, I [i]didn't[/i] leave the car that way, so do think about whether you might want to go more aggressive in the future. :)
| merlot | 05-02-2006 04:06 PM |
[QUOTE=Jaxx]#1 stock sized tires is a big mistake if this is dedicated race rubber the 215/40/16 (gives you 4.11 gearing) or 225/??/16 is a much better choice
#2 springs +struts vs realy coilovers is night and day
to add to the list
uppipe/turboback/ stx tune
lightned flywheel
lightened /underdriven pullies
depending on your driving style a front sway bar
a harness -probblay the best mod allows you to concentrate on driving not holding yourself in the car[/QUOTE]
I'm not replacing my tires just yet. I started autox'ing on all-seasons, so these are in a completely different league and I don't yet feel I'm completely maximizing them yet (1.5 seasons under my belt). Thx for your suggestions, but I'm really looking for cheap mods, which the camber bolts and swaybars are. Also, I've never had a problem holding myself in the car. I think the 02/03 seats were tailor-made for me as they hold me perfectly. I wish I could dedicate more funds towards autox, but I have other interests as well.
[QUOTE=Zoinks]had the Cusco 22mm front/22-24mm rear bars and Prodrive springs with 225/45/17 Azenis as my setup for a while and - IMO - the car was a BLAST. It wasn't as competitive as more aggressive setup, but it felt great to me and it was a lot of fun to drive. I could go a long way towards adjusting the balance of the car by just playing with the rear bar and tire pressure settings. Daily driving was great too - firm but not punishing. Even the drop looked good. For me it was a perfect compromise setup - if I wasn't trying to be faster, I probably would have left the car that way.
But, I didn't leave the car that way, so do think about whether you might want to go more aggressive in the future.[/QUOTE]
This sounds like a setup I want. IMO, I love the way the stock WRX feels, and I really want mild improvements to improve camber (and thus grip). If I ever feel the need to go more extreme, I'll sell parts and just get new ones. I realize most of you tell me to go with big bars from the start, but I really want to learn the car and make (& feel) mild improvements as I go along.
So what did you change and how did affect the overall ride and handling?
#2 springs +struts vs realy coilovers is night and day
to add to the list
uppipe/turboback/ stx tune
lightned flywheel
lightened /underdriven pullies
depending on your driving style a front sway bar
a harness -probblay the best mod allows you to concentrate on driving not holding yourself in the car[/QUOTE]
I'm not replacing my tires just yet. I started autox'ing on all-seasons, so these are in a completely different league and I don't yet feel I'm completely maximizing them yet (1.5 seasons under my belt). Thx for your suggestions, but I'm really looking for cheap mods, which the camber bolts and swaybars are. Also, I've never had a problem holding myself in the car. I think the 02/03 seats were tailor-made for me as they hold me perfectly. I wish I could dedicate more funds towards autox, but I have other interests as well.
[QUOTE=Zoinks]had the Cusco 22mm front/22-24mm rear bars and Prodrive springs with 225/45/17 Azenis as my setup for a while and - IMO - the car was a BLAST. It wasn't as competitive as more aggressive setup, but it felt great to me and it was a lot of fun to drive. I could go a long way towards adjusting the balance of the car by just playing with the rear bar and tire pressure settings. Daily driving was great too - firm but not punishing. Even the drop looked good. For me it was a perfect compromise setup - if I wasn't trying to be faster, I probably would have left the car that way.
But, I didn't leave the car that way, so do think about whether you might want to go more aggressive in the future.[/QUOTE]
This sounds like a setup I want. IMO, I love the way the stock WRX feels, and I really want mild improvements to improve camber (and thus grip). If I ever feel the need to go more extreme, I'll sell parts and just get new ones. I realize most of you tell me to go with big bars from the start, but I really want to learn the car and make (& feel) mild improvements as I go along.
So what did you change and how did affect the overall ride and handling?
| Zoinks | 05-02-2006 06:14 PM |
I went to 8k/10k coilovers (Tein Flex) and a 32mm front bar, and I dialed in more camber since I had camber plates with the new coilovers. I'm still getting used to it. Very different car now, but it's already faster.
Ride is worse on the street, but I don't have a problem daily driving it.
You're right about being able to sell the parts. I'd skip the intermediate step if I had to do it over again, but that's with the benefit of hindsight. I can't say I regret having bought them.
Ride is worse on the street, but I don't have a problem daily driving it.
You're right about being able to sell the parts. I'd skip the intermediate step if I had to do it over again, but that's with the benefit of hindsight. I can't say I regret having bought them.
| Mykl | 05-02-2006 06:15 PM |
[QUOTE=Zoinks]For the bugeyes the Prodrives were linear, not progressive.
Before I got coilovers I had the Prodrive springs on stock struts and I loved them. But maybe skip springs/shocks and focus on tires/alignment/bars first if you think there's any chance you might want to go all out in the future.[/QUOTE]
I stand corrected. :(
Before I got coilovers I had the Prodrive springs on stock struts and I loved them. But maybe skip springs/shocks and focus on tires/alignment/bars first if you think there's any chance you might want to go all out in the future.[/QUOTE]
I stand corrected. :(
| jcroy66 | 05-03-2006 06:18 AM |
[QUOTE=Jaxx]lightned flywheel[/QUOTE]Bzzzt!! Not STX legal. OE flywheel only.
| DrBiggly | 05-03-2006 11:44 AM |
[QUOTE=jcroy66]Bzzzt!! Not STX legal. OE flywheel only.[/QUOTE]
That is correct. :)
-Biggly
That is correct. :)
-Biggly
| Scooby Freak | 05-03-2006 11:55 AM |
[QUOTE=MSD]should I shoot for bigger bars?[/QUOTE]If you get a bigger bar that is adjustable, then you can change it later. ;)
| IBAUCLAPlaya | 05-03-2006 12:35 PM |
[QUOTE=Zoinks]I went to 8k/10k coilovers (Tein Flex) and a 32mm front bar, and I dialed in more camber since I had camber plates with the new coilovers. I'm still getting used to it. Very different car now, but it's already faster.
Ride is worse on the street, but I don't have a problem daily driving it.
You're right about being able to sell the parts. I'd skip the intermediate step if I had to do it over again, but that's with the benefit of hindsight. I can't say I regret having bought them.[/QUOTE]
Running the same thing, w/ -3.5 degrees camber in the front on the RS2 tires. I'm loving it matched w/ the Perrin rear bar.
Ride is worse on the street, but I don't have a problem daily driving it.
You're right about being able to sell the parts. I'd skip the intermediate step if I had to do it over again, but that's with the benefit of hindsight. I can't say I regret having bought them.[/QUOTE]
Running the same thing, w/ -3.5 degrees camber in the front on the RS2 tires. I'm loving it matched w/ the Perrin rear bar.
| mxm477 | 05-04-2006 11:21 AM |
Nice to see the help you can get here... I'm now piggybacking on this thread.
I have a stiff coil-over set lowered almost two inches... would people divuldge the hot set-up for AutoX for swaybars?
30/26 mm front/rear? More? Less?
Thanks for the great thread.
I have a stiff coil-over set lowered almost two inches... would people divuldge the hot set-up for AutoX for swaybars?
30/26 mm front/rear? More? Less?
Thanks for the great thread.
| vtbandit | 05-04-2006 11:42 AM |
[QUOTE=mxm477]Nice to see the help you can get here... I'm now piggybacking on this thread.
I have a stiff coil-over set lowered almost two inches... would people divuldge the hot set-up for AutoX for swaybars?
30/26 mm front/rear? More? Less?
Thanks for the great thread.[/QUOTE]
We would need more information about your setup. What are your spring rates? Alignment settings? Tires (type and size)?
I have a stiff coil-over set lowered almost two inches... would people divuldge the hot set-up for AutoX for swaybars?
30/26 mm front/rear? More? Less?
Thanks for the great thread.[/QUOTE]
We would need more information about your setup. What are your spring rates? Alignment settings? Tires (type and size)?
| wm07 | 05-04-2006 01:02 PM |
dude! get the biggest front swaybar you can get! I had 22mm in the front and after installing 32mm Strano bar, I noticed big front end grip improvement and had to dial in more negative camber in the rear. I have 22-24mm adjustable bar in the rear.
| trhoppe | 05-04-2006 01:04 PM |
Has someone already said
"Evo School"
?
-Tom
"Evo School"
?
-Tom
| DrBiggly | 05-04-2006 01:32 PM |
[QUOTE=trhoppe]Has someone already said
"Evo School"
?
-Tom[/QUOTE]
DOH! -1 for Tom. :(
Post#10 addressed this. :)
-Biggly
"Evo School"
?
-Tom[/QUOTE]
DOH! -1 for Tom. :(
Post#10 addressed this. :)
-Biggly
| jcroy66 | 05-04-2006 01:50 PM |
Tom, yeah, search noob!! :D
| merlot | 05-04-2006 03:56 PM |
I researched camber bolts in the suspension section and found some concerns about having an aftermarket bolt in the bottom hole in the front struts. Should I be concerend about it's durability if I hit potholes or big bumps? I normally don't avoid this stuff :o
I'm on the fence still about sway bar size. Everyone agrees the bigger the better, but my gut tells me I'll be happy with 22mm solid bars (or 25mm hollow) because I really like the handling the WRX in stock form. Later down the road, paired with Konis/Prodrive setup sounds like a winner. I don't know if I'm as hardcore as everyone here; what to do...
[QUOTE=Scooby Freak]If you get a bigger bar that is adjustable, then you can change it later.[/QUOTE]
True... does anyone make a 22,23,24mm front bar?
I'm on the fence still about sway bar size. Everyone agrees the bigger the better, but my gut tells me I'll be happy with 22mm solid bars (or 25mm hollow) because I really like the handling the WRX in stock form. Later down the road, paired with Konis/Prodrive setup sounds like a winner. I don't know if I'm as hardcore as everyone here; what to do...
[QUOTE=Scooby Freak]If you get a bigger bar that is adjustable, then you can change it later.[/QUOTE]
True... does anyone make a 22,23,24mm front bar?
| DrBiggly | 05-04-2006 04:23 PM |
[QUOTE=MSD]I researched camber bolts in the suspension section and found some concerns about having an aftermarket bolt in the bottom hole in the front struts. Should I be concerend about it's durability if I hit potholes or big bumps? I normally don't avoid this stuff :o
I'm on the fence still about sway bar size. Everyone agrees the bigger the better, but my gut tells me I'll be happy with 22mm solid bars (or 25mm hollow) because I really like the handling the WRX in stock form. Later down the road, paired with Konis/Prodrive setup sounds like a winner. I don't know if I'm as hardcore as everyone here; what to do...
True... does anyone make a 22,23,24mm front bar?[/QUOTE]
Your concern is exactly why I posted what I did above; set them for max where they will not slip and you will be fine. Use the stock bolt up top for true camber adjustment. I don't know about rears slipping; I haven't heard of any cases but I do know that the fronts slip. To date I have never heard of any breakage of these bolts.
Whiteline I believe has an "adjustable" front of 22-24mm as far as bars go. Having had a few different bar sizes and driven many different Subaru configurations over the past few years I still cast my vote for bigger being better. :)
-Biggly
I'm on the fence still about sway bar size. Everyone agrees the bigger the better, but my gut tells me I'll be happy with 22mm solid bars (or 25mm hollow) because I really like the handling the WRX in stock form. Later down the road, paired with Konis/Prodrive setup sounds like a winner. I don't know if I'm as hardcore as everyone here; what to do...
True... does anyone make a 22,23,24mm front bar?[/QUOTE]
Your concern is exactly why I posted what I did above; set them for max where they will not slip and you will be fine. Use the stock bolt up top for true camber adjustment. I don't know about rears slipping; I haven't heard of any cases but I do know that the fronts slip. To date I have never heard of any breakage of these bolts.
Whiteline I believe has an "adjustable" front of 22-24mm as far as bars go. Having had a few different bar sizes and driven many different Subaru configurations over the past few years I still cast my vote for bigger being better. :)
-Biggly
| Scooby Freak | 05-04-2006 04:31 PM |
[QUOTE=MSD][B][I][COLOR=Red]I really like the handling the WRX in stock form[/COLOR][/I][/B][/QUOTE]It gets a lot better. :p
Big swaybars aren't really that hardcore compared to 8k/10k springs. And Whiteline makes large adjustable ones.
Big swaybars aren't really that hardcore compared to 8k/10k springs. And Whiteline makes large adjustable ones.
| BlkWRXWag | 05-04-2006 05:22 PM |
Whiteline has an adjustable 27-29mm FSB.
| wm07 | 05-04-2006 07:06 PM |
[QUOTE=MSD]I don't know if I'm as hardcore as everyone here;[/QUOTE]
What do you mean by hardcore? bigger swaybar has less effect to ride comfort than upgradeing springs. I made the mistake of paying the same mod twice by going from 22mm to 32mm, do you want to do the same? :devil: The improvement of the big front bar is very noticable.
What do you mean by hardcore? bigger swaybar has less effect to ride comfort than upgradeing springs. I made the mistake of paying the same mod twice by going from 22mm to 32mm, do you want to do the same? :devil: The improvement of the big front bar is very noticable.
| subaruwrx420 | 05-04-2006 10:56 PM |
Apart for all the good suspension advice everyone has mentioned...I would go with a gutted uppipe (cheap) to improve spool...probably the most worth while exhaust mod among catback, downpipe, or turbo back.
| merlot | 05-05-2006 09:27 AM |
I've been doing a bit of research on Whitelines site; they claim their big, adjustable swaybars (specifically, XSF33XXZ 27mm front adjustable, and XSR36XZ 24mm & XSR36XXZ 27mm rear adjustable) are for "RACE USE ONLY". Why is that?
Are solid 24mm adjustable sway bars consider to be on the bigger side?
Are solid 24mm adjustable sway bars consider to be on the bigger side?
| Valhakar | 05-05-2006 09:40 AM |
More camber than above. I have a JDM STi takeoff which is nearly the same ride height as stock. -2.4 camber front, -1.6 rear, +3.5 caster front(more positive caster adds Negative camber as the wheel turns), +0.02 toe both front and rear.
Stock sways with upgraded endlinks.
Stock sways with upgraded endlinks.
| Scooby Freak | 05-05-2006 09:51 AM |
I have BSF33Z & BSR36ZX (XRD). The 22mm adjustable front and 24mm adjustable rear bars. With the stock springs and struts, I usually had both bars on the stiffest setting and with the 8k/10k coilovers I softened the rear bar because it was a little too tail happy for me. The 24mm rear swaybar snapped one of the old style whiteline steel wire endlinks, so I put the stock endlinks back in and they have been fine. I think RACE USE ONLY means that you may have to upgrade the links and mounts.
| merlot | 05-05-2006 10:30 AM |
Jeff - what is the range of the BSF33Z? Is 22mm the softest setting? I haven't been too successful at finding out how the Whiteline bars adjust. Some manufacturers bars middle setting corresponds to the true diameter, with a softer setting and harder setting. Is this how Whiteline does it too?
| DrBiggly | 05-05-2006 11:22 AM |
[QUOTE=MSD]I've been doing a bit of research on Whitelines site; they claim their big, adjustable swaybars (specifically, XSF33XXZ 27mm front adjustable, and XSR36XZ 24mm & XSR36XXZ 27mm rear adjustable) are for "RACE USE ONLY". [/QUOTE]
Same reason that folks who sell Catless exhausts say that it is for "OFF ROAD USE ONLY." :)
-Biggly
Same reason that folks who sell Catless exhausts say that it is for "OFF ROAD USE ONLY." :)
-Biggly
| merlot | 05-05-2006 02:23 PM |
[QUOTE=DrBiggly]Same reason that folks who sell Catless exhausts say that it is for "OFF ROAD USE ONLY." :)
-Biggly[/QUOTE]
I don't think thats the same though, since catless exhausts are illegal.
-Biggly[/QUOTE]
I don't think thats the same though, since catless exhausts are illegal.
| Scooby Freak | 05-05-2006 02:40 PM |
[QUOTE=MSD]Jeff - what is the range of the BSF33Z? Is 22mm the softest setting? I haven't been too successful at finding out how the Whiteline bars adjust. Some manufacturers bars middle setting corresponds to the true diameter, with a softer setting and harder setting. Is this how Whiteline does it too?[/QUOTE]It has two holes at each end. You can't really say it has a 22mm setting and a 24mm setting, because you aren't changing the diameter. You could say it acts like a 24mm bar, but that is just a marketing gimmick because there are too many variables and I like to keep it technical. If only they would publish the springrates...
And footnote #11 on the last page of Whiteline's catalog explains race use only. ;)
And footnote #11 on the last page of Whiteline's catalog explains race use only. ;)
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