Chủ Nhật, 5 tháng 3, 2017

Temporary AutoX numbers by the weekend part 1

gt4tuner 12-01-2005 05:09 PM
Temporary AutoX numbers by the weekend
�
I was wondering if anyone knew of stores that sold either the magnetic numbers, or something similar. I want to go to my first RallyX this weekend and it says that you need 6" numbers on each side, and a 4" class designation. If anyone knows where I can get these in a hurry, or a temporary solution it would help me out tons. Thanks guys.
cfvwtuner 12-01-2005 05:34 PM
Staples is your firend. We bought regular stick on vinyl 6" white numbers there.
They have them pre cut and ready to stick. They actually last a long time, if you want. We had the same one on our Focus for 3 years or so.
Try craft stores too.
bxracer69 12-01-2005 06:42 PM
use masking tape on ur back window thats what i did b4 i got my permanent ones
LathanM 12-01-2005 07:47 PM
Go to any craft store and pick up a roll of the magnetic tape. I got a roll of 1"x10' for $10. Cut the tape into 3 inch pieces. Arrange the pieces like you would on an LED display. Simple, effective and completely removable.
Scoobie Noobie 12-02-2005 11:34 AM
You can get 8�x11 magnetic sheets at office supply stores. Or print these on paper & use blue low-stick painter's tape to tape them on your car.
[URL=http://www.rmsolo.org/makenumbers.html]Numbers and Classes[/URL]

Have fun autoxing! Be warned it may become a habit. :)
mcowger 12-02-2005 01:17 PM
[QUOTE=bxracer69]use masking tape on ur back window thats what i did b4 i got my permanent ones[/QUOTE]

Not legal in many clubs, including mine.
TheLegacy 12-02-2005 01:53 PM
legal for SCCA i think...

you can use shoe paint polish thing that ppl often use
boostinscooby 12-02-2005 03:08 PM
[QUOTE=TheLegacy]legal for SCCA i think...

you can use shoe paint polish thing that ppl often use[/QUOTE]

yes you can
mcowger 12-02-2005 03:49 PM
[QUOTE=TheLegacy]legal for SCCA i think...

you can use shoe paint polish thing that ppl often use[/QUOTE]


Bzzzzt!

3.7D. Numbers and class letters should be positioned next to each other.
All letters and numbers must be on body panels, [b]not on windows.[/b]
All numbers and class letters must use the same typeface and the
same color, and this color must provide adequate contrast to the
background color (see Appendix F for examples)
TheLegacy 12-02-2005 03:57 PM
oh bite a bullet... lol ive never been yelled at for that at SCCA events...

Hey like any good law enforcement personel, you can always bend them... but not break them...LOL
Lachlan 12-02-2005 03:59 PM
Yeah but my region never slapped me on the wrist when i put them on the windows. Usually they have blue painters tape for folks to use, which doesn't work too well on a blue car.
mcowger 12-02-2005 04:49 PM
[QUOTE=TheLegacy]oh bite a bullet... lol ive never been yelled at for that at SCCA events...

Hey like any good law enforcement personel, you can always bend them... but not break them...LOL[/QUOTE]


You may not have, but I have personally failed people on tech for having numbers on their windows.
Lachlan 12-02-2005 04:53 PM
***!5
munkis 12-02-2005 06:13 PM
now thats not very nice lachlan, enjoy the points.
Lachlan 12-02-2005 06:43 PM
Aw my buffer went from 25 to 19 :( That will teach me to mock those who follow pointless rules.
TheLegacy 12-02-2005 06:58 PM
its ok, i've got 4 points against me... ;+) i'm always looking for trouble. And for failing of numbers on window... MEANIE!!! You wont get any of my oreos!
mcowger 12-02-2005 06:59 PM
Theres a reason for that rule you know.....but I'll let you geniuses figure it out.
TheLegacy 12-02-2005 07:09 PM
i'm sure there is but i've never had issues putting it here

[url]http://ogla.8m.com/IMGA4285.JPG[/url] (gotta copy and paste URL, CLICKing wont work)

no issues ever... but i'm not smart enough to figure it out sry... I stick to combat boots lights sirens action and my subaru
Lachlan 12-02-2005 07:12 PM
[QUOTE=mcowger]Theres a reason for that rule you know.....but I'll let you geniuses figure it out.[/QUOTE]

In every region i've competed in the "geniuses" in tech didn't think it was that important, so even if you keep it from us you might want to let them know.
PKer 12-02-2005 07:21 PM
More and more regions are cracking down on numbers for local autocross competition. Usually if numbers are required in order to pass tech inspection, they have some available for a nominal fee. Usually it is just number printed out on paper that you tape to your car.
Lachlan: if you are as abrasive in real life as you are in your posts, I hope not meet you at the Wendover Pro next year.
TheLegacy 12-02-2005 07:23 PM
people online tend to be different.. now now

like in real life im a 4'4 midget who sits on phone books to drive... but i seem big online

but shhhh dont tell anyone
Lachlan 12-02-2005 11:53 PM
Come on, PKer, you've been on nasioc long enough to know it's a rough place. If you think being ratted out for your sexual preferences for enforcing ghey rules is abrasive, you should probably go to one of those touchy feely suby boards ;)

PS I'll look for you there
cfvwtuner 12-03-2005 07:28 AM
Failing someone in tech for having numbers on the window?!?! This is why I will never again autocross with the SCCA. I had a terrible first experience, and I fail to see why I should ever try to have a second experience.
I'll stick with my local clubs.
I dont quite see how it makes a difference. Maybe because someone can roll the window down and hide the number? That is weak at best.
On a Coupe or Hatchback with fixed rear windows, it makes no sense.
[img]http://www.foxtuning.com/photos/99subarurs/Dscf0391.jpg[/img]
LathanM 12-03-2005 08:41 AM
The problems with putting the numbers on windows is one of contrast. Lightly colored numbers can be hard to see from some angles. This is even worse on sunny days because of the way they reflect light. Black numbers tend to vanish competely. Yes is sucks but like most rules there is a simple reason behind it.

3.7D. Numbers and class letters should be positioned next to each other.
All letters and numbers must be on body panels, not on windows.
All numbers and class letters must use the same typeface and the
same color, and this color [B]must provide adequate contrast to the
background color[/B] (see Appendix F for examples)
mcowger 12-03-2005 01:09 PM
[QUOTE=LathanM]The problems with putting the numbers on windows is one of contrast. Lightly colored numbers can be hard to see from some angles. This is even worse on sunny days because of the way they reflect light. Black numbers tend to vanish competely. Yes is sucks but like most rules there is a simple reason behind it.
[/QUOTE]


Exactly!

The numbers in the picture above are an example of what not to do. Sitting there still, sure they aare easy to read. Wait until the car is going 40MPH with sunlight glinting off the windows and most of the way through your station and hits a cone...5" numbers like thaty on the windows will be VERY hard to see.
cfvwtuner 12-03-2005 01:21 PM
I guess we'll have to disagree then. Our local club has been doing this for years.
I've never had problems when I was out shagging cones seeing decently made numbers on the windows.
WRXbluJ 12-03-2005 01:39 PM
I bought a package of 8x15 magnetic vent covers from Home Depot or Lowes. A 3 pack was like 5 bucks. Printed out the font and size that I wanted to use and cut out the number. Then I spray painted them yellow and put a clearcoat over it (probably overkill, but they looked shiny). Super easy and cheap. Not required to display class here.


[img]http://northwoodsinsulation.com/RallyX/Pics/05-11-05/8464_sm.jpg[/img]
D fresh 12-03-2005 03:22 PM
Blue painters tape for a temporary solution.


I now have magnetic numbers.
PKer 12-05-2005 07:20 PM
[QUOTE=Lachlan]Come on, PKer, you've been on nasioc long enough to know it's a rough place. If you think being ratted out for your sexual preferences for enforcing ghey rules is abrasive, you should probably go to one of those touchy feely suby boards ;)

PS I'll look for you there[/QUOTE]
OK You got me, I must have posted on a sensitive day.
I'm sure I coudn't help but run into you @ Wendover since I love GCs and an STi swapped one would be impossible to resist checking out.
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Thứ Bảy, 4 tháng 3, 2017

Hi Flo Cats for STX part 1

makofoto 02-02-2006 01:10 AM
Hi Flo Cats for STX
�
Not getting much response on the 2.0 Forum.

I need to weld a Hi Flo Cat into my left over SM catless straight pipe.

What's the difference between the inexpensive $58 dollar Hi Flo Cats (I would use model 15033 at the bottom of the page): [url]http://www.a-1performance.com/super_converter/super_converters.htm[/url]

(What's that little pipe thingy sticking out?)

And these $150 dollar Hi Flo Cats: [url]http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/dynatechdragstore/getproduct.cfm?CategoryID=58&ClassID=370&SubclassID=1697&ProductID=6945[/url]

Any recommendations?
flyboymike 02-02-2006 01:45 AM
$92.00

Sorry, couldn't resist.
PossumK 02-02-2006 02:30 AM
[QUOTE=makofoto]Any recommendations?[/QUOTE]

Why yes... get the one with a smaller diameter and lower flow capability.








:devil:
PossumK 02-02-2006 03:08 AM
Serious response: See if you can find this Random Technology 7000 series (metal substrate) cheaper:
[url]http://www.dezodmotorsports.com/pd_random_technology_7000_series.cfm[/url]

Otherwise, the $150 Dynatech is a metal substrate cat, while the cheaper Dynomax looks like it uses a ceramic substrate. Some claims are higher flow and longevity with a metal substrate.
angryfist 02-02-2006 09:26 AM
metal will flow better but are a lot more expensive. i just used a 3" magnaflow cat for $35. there will be virtually no difference with the power we are putting down.
Crash477 02-02-2006 11:13 AM
[QUOTE=angryfist]metal will flow better but are a lot more expensive. i just used a 3" magnaflow cat for $35. there will be virtually no difference with the power we are putting down.[/QUOTE]
Thats what I was thinking. I am going to do this too.
Rasmusson14 02-02-2006 12:06 PM
While on this topic of high-flow cats, where would be the best location to place the cat? I have heard argument for both places, in the shorty dp and the mid-pipe location, and was wondering what the consensus here is.
Crash477 02-02-2006 12:15 PM
I have heard in the midpipe somewhere. I've heard you want to leave teh DP catless, for better flow.. not sure if that is correct, just whatI have heard. I know mine is in the midpipe..
fliz 02-02-2006 12:30 PM
[QUOTE=Rasmusson14]While on this topic of high-flow cats, where would be the best location to place the cat? I have heard argument for both places, in the shorty dp and the mid-pipe location, and was wondering what the consensus here is.[/QUOTE]
As far away from the turbo/engine as you can legally get it.

Which is 6" beyond the stock location of the third cat.
Crash477 02-02-2006 12:32 PM
edit:

[QUOTE]High flow catalytic converters are allowed, but must attach
within six inches of the original unit. Multiple catalytic converters
may be replaced by a single unit. The inlet of the
single replacement converter may be located no further
downstream than 6" along the piping flow path from the
original exit of the final OE converter.[/QUOTE]
mccanixx 02-02-2006 12:49 PM
[QUOTE=fliz]As far away from the turbo/engine as you can legally get it.

Which is 6" beyond the stock location of the third cat.[/QUOTE]


Then why does Corky Bell say as close to the turbo as you can get it? I'm not trying to be contradictry. It's just a question I have.

Actually his logic is to allow it to reach operating temp as quickly as possible. Maybe it's based on an oem style cat. :confused:
angryfist 02-02-2006 01:06 PM
if you want the cat to get up to working temp fast then you want it close to the turbo. better for emissions.
Rasmusson14 02-02-2006 01:46 PM
[QUOTE=angryfist]if you want the cat to get up to working temp fast then you want it close to the turbo. better for emissions.[/QUOTE]
I was under the thought that the hotter the gases the better the flow which the cat would be a great way to maintain hot gases but then again the amount of restriction it is creating would seem to slow the flow down :huh: I guess the question would be which way is less parasitic or more optimal for the flow of gases. Speed or heat?
D_REX 02-02-2006 01:54 PM
The cat will not heat the gasses passing through it under full load. The exhaust will heat it.

The farther back the cat is located the slower the exhaust gasses will be flowing and the less restriction the cat will cause.
fliz 02-02-2006 01:58 PM
[QUOTE=D_REX]The cat will not heat the gasses passing through it under full load. The exhaust will heat it.

The farther back the cat is located the slower the exhaust gasses will be flowing and the less restriction the cat will cause.[/QUOTE]
That's always the theory I've heard, and why rally cars run the cat in place of the muffler in the back. Well, that also allows them to whack it with a stick if it clogs.
Rasmusson14 02-02-2006 02:02 PM
Sorry for the hijack makofoto but thought this would be along the same line of �What flows better�

Thanks for your reply�s and it looks like I may be doing some �modification� to my APS tbe that I just bought. :rolleyes:
Zoinks 02-02-2006 06:56 PM
For what it's worth, [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=747498&page=3&pp=25"]some of the people in this old STX dyno thread[/URL] making 240+ whp are running the PDE downpipe, which places a highflow cat up towards the turbo. So I dunno how much of a difference location really makes. Hopefully they can chime in and correct me if I'm making a dumb assumption.
abaxter34 02-02-2006 08:01 PM
[QUOTE=fliz]As far away from the turbo/engine as you can legally get it.

Which is 6" beyond the stock location of the third cat.[/QUOTE]
i moved min to the catback section of my exhaust, just on the opposite side of the flange from the midpipe...which is just within 6 inches of the stock placement.
fliz 02-02-2006 08:39 PM
[QUOTE=abaxter34]i moved min to the catback section of my exhaust, just on the opposite side of the flange from the midpipe...which is just within 6 inches of the stock placement.[/QUOTE]
Hmmm...When I measured my OEM 3rd cat pipe, there was 7" between the end of the substrate and the flange.

Where did you measure from?
thechickencow 02-02-2006 09:56 PM
[QUOTE=fliz]That's always the theory I've heard, and why rally cars run the cat in place of the muffler in the back. Well, that also allows them to whack it with a stick if it clogs.[/QUOTE]

I ran mine back there because it was easier to tuck up high too there - straight pipes under the car are less likely to be smashed than a big ol' cat.

I used the $50 3" catco on ebay on the rally car - no issues with it and the car had plenty of power (more than any STX car).
abaxter34 02-02-2006 09:59 PM
if i remember correctly i think i measured from the end of the heat shield. its part of the cat as far as im concerned. also, my catless downpipe's flange doesnt came back as far aft as the oem midpipe flange. when i switched downpipes it pulled my exhaust forward and caused it to hit the rear sway bar. plus, the conventional plate type flanges use less room then the oem donut type.
PhilC 02-03-2006 09:04 AM
We're running the PDE with the cat right up close to the turbo. In fact I'm pretty sure the PDE might actually put the cat closer to the turbo than the stock downpipe. Only problem I've had with it so far is that the cat is actually too close to the turbo to find a good spot for a wide band bung to be welded in.

If I saw a car that was winning at a big event with a cat in the cat back section only I'd protest it. I've measured the things too and unless your downpipe moved your flange three inches closer to the turbo there is no way that you're within 6" of the stock cat. The heat shield is most definitely NOT the catalytic converter, the substrate itself is the converter and it's a good 7+" from the stock flange to the substrate.
KSwrxWAGON 02-03-2006 10:22 AM
[QUOTE=PhilC]If I saw a car that was winning at a big event with a cat in the cat back section only I'd protest it...the substrate itself is the converter and it's a good 7+" from the stock flange to the substrate.[/QUOTE]

Different catalytic converters will have different dimensions of catalyst (radius and length). This is an area that will need to be clarified in the rules. The easy way is to look at a stock flange in relation to the heat shield and then measure the new cat flange distance to the heat shield.

The overall goal is to maintain compliance with emissions regulations. If you measure from the substrate, are you measuring from the beginning or end of the cake? This would have a huge impact on the location if the new cat substrate isn't as long as OEM. In the same regard, if both cat dimensions were the same, moving the flange 6" downstream moves the substrate the same amount, right? :confused:

BTW, I'm not winning any large events anytime soon so I hope someone else does so we can see what happens.
fliz 02-03-2006 11:48 AM
It's pretty specific. The inlet of the new cat must be no further downstream than the original exit of the final OEM cat.

The most restrictive interpretation of that is that the inlet and original exit refer to the substrate. This is easily measured by sticking a tape measure in the end of the pipe.

You could argue that the "inlet" and "exit" are not the substrate, but where the exhaust necks back down to pipe dimension, which would give you some wiggle room, but still not enough to put a cat in the catback section.

BTW...there was a protest lost on a Civic at nationals last year that moved the cat 9", so the SCCA has a method to determine the inlet and exit of the cat. I just don't know what that is...
PhilC 02-03-2006 01:12 PM
In the case of the Civic it was an STS car and they aren't allowed to move the cats at all. I had heard that it actually had been moved more than 6" and wouldn't have been legal for STX but they had the header cut apart and welded back together shorter before that car ever ran in STX.

IMHO, the only possible method of measuring where a catalytic converter begins and ends is the beginning and ending of the substrate. The heat shields can be configured any way you want and the necking of the pipe can as well. Where the substrate begins and ends is easily measured and not arguable.
abaxter34 02-03-2006 10:14 PM
[QUOTE=PhilC] The heat shields can be configured any way you want and the necking of the pipe can as well. Where the substrate begins and ends is easily measured and not arguable.[/QUOTE]
so youre going to take apart the exhaust and stick a tape measuer inside the cat until it hits the substrate to measure for a protest? the heat shield on the stock cat ends at the rear bottleneck, which is a good 3-4 inches aft of the substrate. the cat functions as a unit with the bottlenecks on the steel casing. in my definition, that hole piece, bottleneck to bottleneck is "the cat". when you buy an aftermarket cat it comes built with the bottlenecks, right? (at least the ceramic ones do, not the metal substrate cats) the rule book says, "cat placed not more than 6" after the original exit of the last factory cat". it doesnt say anything about where the substrate gets moved to.
mccanixx 02-04-2006 07:47 AM
[QUOTE=abaxter34]so youre going to take apart the exhaust and stick a tape measuer inside the cat until it hits the substrate to measure for a protest? the heat shield on the stock cat ends at the rear bottleneck, which is a good 3-4 inches aft of the substrate. the cat functions as a unit with the bottlenecks on the steel casing. in my definition, that hole piece, bottleneck to bottleneck is "the cat". when you buy an aftermarket cat it comes built with the bottlenecks, right? (at least the ceramic ones do, not the metal substrate cats) the rule book says, "cat placed not more than 6" after the original exit of the last factory cat". it doesnt say anything about where the substrate gets moved to.[/QUOTE]


I think that this is one of the more clear rules in the book, and my interpretation is also the actual substrate not the housing that it's in.

If that we're the case you could say the downpipe's the inlet and the tailpipe's the outlet. I mean it's all one unit once it's bolted toghther. So with that definition the whole exhaust is "the cat" Maybe i'm on to something.

As soon as someone makes a cat that is small and efficient you won't have bottle necks, they'll be the diameter of the exhaust tubing. The shape of the housing it's in is irrelevant. It's the material in the housing that's the Catalytic Converter.

I also think it would be protestable.
And you wouldn't have to take apart the exhaust to measure in a protest. You could take a 1000 of your year stock Subaru's measure from centerline of axle, or some other fixed point, and that stock substrate would be within mm's of each other everytime.

Measure on protested car same method. If your cat starts more than 6" after the stock cat stops. Hmmmm?
PhilC 02-04-2006 08:00 AM
[QUOTE=abaxter34]so youre going to take apart the exhaust and stick a tape measuer inside the cat until it hits the substrate to measure for a protest? the heat shield on the stock cat ends at the rear bottleneck, which is a good 3-4 inches aft of the substrate. the cat functions as a unit with the bottlenecks on the steel casing. in my definition, that hole piece, bottleneck to bottleneck is "the cat". when you buy an aftermarket cat it comes built with the bottlenecks, right? (at least the ceramic ones do, not the metal substrate cats) the rule book says, "cat placed not more than 6" after the original exit of the last factory cat". it doesnt say anything about where the substrate gets moved to.[/QUOTE]

In point of fact that is EXACTLY what I would have done in a protest situation, disassemble an exhaust at the stock donut gasket location, it's two whopping bolts, stick a tape measure in and get the definitive answer on where in the pipe the substrate is located in 30 minutes, 25 of which is for the car to cool down so you or the protest committee doesn't burn themselves. In our case where the PDE has a cat up near the turbo I would fully expect that the downpipe would be removed and the substrate would be checked to see if it was actually there. I'd demand a tear-down bond for the cost of a new turbo to downpipe gasket and we'd go ahead with the protest. Tearing down an exhaust is a LOT faster and easier than some of the teardowns that the protest committees have been asked to do in the past. The catalytic converter IS the substrate, the rest is just pipe or heat shield. Without measuring the substrate how would you know if it isn't a gutted cat which is no longer a cat by anyones definition?

If I thought it was necessary I'd bring my stock cat sections to the event with me to have as our comparison since I'm reasonably certain that the factory service manual doesn't give a dimension on that one, or we could probably find a few cars in grid even at Nationals who kept their stock third cat to compare to. I don't think it will ever need protested on a WRX at a big event because you're the only person I've ever heard of putting a cat in the cat back area and thinking it might possibly be legal.
The Deliverator 02-12-2006 08:31 AM
I'd suggest an Arvin Meritor 'Metalcat'. 200 cell, true metal substrate. You can find 'em for ~$135 shipped.

Random Tech's cats, afaik, are 400 cell and I've had bad experience with 'em in the past. The one I had a few years ago fell apart- first the bottom heatshield fell off, then the top one came loose. Then the brick inside started to disintegrate and when it wasn't rattling around it made for a terrific cork.

The other high flow cats out there also seem to be 400 cell and it's not clear whether or not they have a metal substrate- different vendors say different things about the same part #'s.
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Stebel Nautilus Air Horn Install part 1

writersblock 06-11-2006 04:29 PM
Stebel Nautilus Air Horn Install
�
I know several people have posted on this, but I have a bit of experience now after installing this horn, unfortunately, twice.

For more info see [URL=http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1014647&page=1&pp=25&highlight=stebel]This Thread[/URL] .

Anyways, I installed the Stebel Nautilus full-sized horn in front of the battery on my 2002 WRX. I didn't use the relay, which indicated my first mistake, and secondly, I didn't heed Stebel's mounting recommendations. Regardless, it worked for a few months, then it sucked something into the intake, which locked up the compressor. Not good.

So, I purchased Stebel's new compact version of the Nautilus horn (see: [URL=http://www.stebel.it/stebel/index2006.htm]Stebel's web site[/URL] for more info and sound clips). Intrestingly, my local Advance Auto Parts carried the horn for $49, which made it on par with what I paid Griot's Garage with shipping. Regardless, I'm not going to fight Charlotte traffic without a horn, so I paid a slight premium.

I decided to mount the horn in the old Alarm Horn location, just above the cruise control unit on the stock bracket, which is attached to the passenger-side shock tower. I made a small L bracket out of a piece of flat steel I had laying around the shop. The factory bracket needs to bent slightly up to make it work.

Here are photos of the install:
[IMG]http://www.charlottesteelers.com/Images/IMG_0035.jpg[/IMG]
This is a basic shot of the horn from the front of the car. I wired the ground to the passenger-side shock tower.

I wired the horn using the supplied relay, which I mounted just in front the battery. I had some existing loom cover I had run from this area over to the passenger-side shock tower area, so I just wrapped the wire into that. Then I ran a hot wire directly from the postive on the battery, through a blade fuse holder with a 20A fuse, to the relay. I used the factory ground on the driver's side fender for the relay ground. I then used the factory trigger wire from the factory horn (the one on on the grill side of the radiator, closest to the drivers' side headlamp). That wire is pretty long and easily reached the relay. I went the extra mile and put heatshrink around all of the connections to reduce the chance of the connections going bad.
[IMG]http://www.charlottesteelers.com/Images/IMG_0038.jpg[/IMG]

Finally, the compact horn includes a snap-on hose barb for the intake on the compressor. Since I fried my first one, I wasn't going to take any more chances, so, I ran a piece of clear brake bleed tubing I had lying around through the main grommet just behind the and above the cruise control unit. Now, the horn gets its air supply from inside of the cabin, without the risk of water or too much dust infilitration.
[IMG]http://www.charlottesteelers.com/Images/IMG_0036.jpg[/IMG]

The result: The horn literally scares people and has a nice, Italian sound to it. I had looked at the Hella Supertones, but they sounded a bit like a** for my tastes. The Stebel horn is both loud and sounds good. Also, since the horn is black, it blends into the engine compartment nicely and gives a nice factory look.

One other note: If you do this install, disable the horn chirp feature on your keyless entry/alarm. The pulse it sends to the horn isn't long enough for the compressor to build any pressure, so you just hear a slight whirr.

I hope this helps someone in their install.

Writersblock
semaj 06-11-2006 08:32 PM
Hehe, welcome Nautilus brother! :D I posted the thread that you linked to...but now I have included the relay and larger wiring, as well as the inline fuse to the battery. My horn is still mounted in the front grille...but I will probably lower it down a bit to use the bumper as a shield for fear of it "eating" something into the compressor. :D Great install...and happy honking, and scaring the living @$$ off people! :devil:

EDIT: The horn chirp and alarm work fine on my '06 :confused: with my Nautilus
writersblock 06-11-2006 10:16 PM
Interesting that your horn chirp works. That may be due to it being a 2006 model. I would suggest you mount the horn somewhere where it won't run the risk of sucking in water. The older cars don't have enough room in front to mount the horn, so the passenger side firewall is really the only choice.

Writersblock
semaj 06-11-2006 11:44 PM
Yup...I am moving it down lower to be behind the bumper cover to shield it from water...I just didn't want to lose any sound! LOL :D It is a FUN FUN horn though!
Markymark409 06-24-2006 01:08 AM
ever notice any problems with heat? being right above the turbo? I just got one of these and am deciding where to mount it.
writersblock 06-25-2006 04:21 PM
It's been installed for several weeks now, and no problems. The cruise control unit sits right below it, so I assume that heat isn't that much of a problem. Also, the hood scoop vents outside air right above it. This solves two problems: One, it keeps heat to a minimum and two, it allows the sound a good path to go to scare off the tractor trailer that's about to kill me.

Writersblock
wwiifanatic 06-25-2006 06:33 PM
That thing so soooo puny! ;)

This is MY airhorn:
[img]http://www.csulb.edu/~mwallin/WRX/airhorn.jpg[/img]
wkw 06-25-2006 06:49 PM
^
holy crap, are you really installing that thing? damn thats gonna be loud
wwiifanatic 06-25-2006 06:52 PM
I've had it in the car for 5 months.
markadopolus 06-25-2006 09:23 PM
^^^ Yup. I heard his before. Its pretty damn loud.
semaj 06-25-2006 09:29 PM
Louder than 139db?
wwiifanatic 06-26-2006 12:49 AM
Big rig loud. I don't know the decible rating but I run them at 100PSI. And the tone is deep.

[url]http://nut.inf-space.de/wrxhornshort.avi[/url]

very short clip. It's my pride and joy. ;)

Sorry kind of a thread hijack, but with this thing other horn threads simply amuse me. Perhaps this week I'll actually just make an install pics thread because I never got around to doing so.
semaj 06-26-2006 01:11 AM
That's pretty loud too...but it has a different sound to the Nautilus, which is more high pitched :D Very cool though...did you have to get a seperate compressor and tank for the air?
wwiifanatic 06-26-2006 01:24 AM
Compressor is mounted in front of the battery, and I have two small airtanks (4.5x5inch cylinders) mounted in the right fender. And yes, if you chirp the car when locking it the airhorns do chirp.
ronnyek 09-29-2006 11:51 AM
I ripped apart my 06 sti and found just about 0 place to mount the compact version of the nautilus, and the pics here are gonners? Anyone have pictures of their current installs?

I looked behind bumper splash guards, behind fog covers etc. I guess I could fab some crazy bracketry... I was just hoping this would be a cheap and quick install.
DaBoxerman 05-05-2007 11:34 PM
I installed the Stebel air horn today...........Alll I can say is....LOUD, Nice, Deep Tone = Perfect selection!

Not a high-pitched horn, but a nice train-sounding horn!
ronnyek 05-06-2007 01:27 AM
Just in case anyone were wondering what I ended up doing...
[IMG]http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1927/horn1ir9.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/6647/horn2us2.jpg[/IMG]
downsti 05-06-2007 04:02 AM
yea these horns are badass
sounds hella nice

check these out

[IMG]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g269/STIframe/IMG_3191Medium.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g269/STIframe/IMG_3190Medium.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g269/STIframe/IMG_3189Medium.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g269/STIframe/IMG_3186Medium.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g269/STIframe/IMG_3193Medium.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g269/STIframe/IMG_3192Medium.jpg[/IMG]
semaj 05-06-2007 05:45 AM
I'm currently running 2 Nautilus Compacts, still in my grille...and after all this time, still working great (even after a Canadian winter). :D
ronnyek 05-06-2007 12:27 PM
ehh be carefull with the grill mounting... direction itself state nowhere it might have access to elements incuding water etc... apparently the nautilus is particularly susceptible to failure due to moisture in horn
vica153 05-08-2007 05:45 PM
uh oh, I probably should move mine then. Its right in front just behind the grill. Although I guess I did already drive through tons of rain and snow with it. When I installed it, I was a bit worried about stuff getting in it so I put a some panty hose over the horns to stop bigs things from getting in.

Its so great to have instead the old 'meep meep' horn.
DaBoxerman 05-09-2007 04:35 PM
I also placed mine in the front grille area - You can't even tell anything extra is there. I have the black Stebel compact, which blends nicely with the black grille.

Hey downsti - How loud are your horns? I think we need to get a sound clip of that one.....Must be loud as a mutha'
volkl23 05-09-2007 07:58 PM
[QUOTE=ronnyek;17974018]Just in case anyone were wondering what I ended up doing...
[IMG]http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1927/horn1ir9.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/6647/horn2us2.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
Did you fabricate that bracket yourself?
semaj 05-09-2007 08:06 PM
[QUOTE=ronnyek;17975830]ehh be carefull with the grill mounting... direction itself state nowhere it might have access to elements incuding water etc... apparently the nautilus is particularly susceptible to failure due to moisture in horn[/QUOTE]

2 horns...1 year in the grille through Canadian rain and snow, no problems. If it breaks, I'll spend the $40 for a new one :p I just like it out in the open at the front for maximum loudness :devil:
ronnyek 05-09-2007 10:30 PM
yep... well future father in law and I... unrelated but check this custom fabrication... YEAH YUH! /me thrusts :disco::disco:

[IMG]http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/8642/hotrod2wb7.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/517/hotrod5rw1.jpg[/IMG]
Counterfit 05-10-2007 01:18 AM
Looks great. And you're right, completely unrelated!

But for related info, I'm definitely getting an air horn now. I like the Nautilus Compact Truck horn. 300Hz = :banana: (D above middle C)
bigstrusk 08-10-2007 01:13 PM
Im tryin to figure out the mounting deal with my GC. It wont fit well where the stocker is (behind driver's side headlight) ... I mean i could probably stick it there and ziptie it in, but id like to physically mount it w/ a bolt. I'd like to avoid the custom fab bit as well, but we will see. Any GC owners go thru this yet?
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Best color of wheels to go on a silver Sti??? part 1

ps99115 08-04-2005 10:18 PM
Best color of wheels to go on a silver Sti???
�
Hi All,

Im thinking of either getting aftermarket wheels or painting my stock BBS's. I want a darker color to hide the brake dust. I have it narrowed down to 3 colors gunmetal, flat black, or glossy black.

Which color do you think looks better on a plat. silver sti? Also, any pics you can post of a silver wrx/sti with any of the above colored wheels would be greatly appriciated :) .

Also keep in mind that I plan to go wingless very soon.(not that this will affect wheel color choice)

Thanks,

Jay
darknightohio 08-04-2005 10:37 PM
Hyperblack also looks great on silver imo
MikalsWRX 08-04-2005 11:22 PM
i like the gunmetal
living4surf 08-05-2005 12:21 AM
i have flat black wheels with a silver lip on my silver wrx and they look pretty good with the unpainted sidskirts. but i would recomend gloss black
bomex180 08-05-2005 12:26 AM
bronze or gunmetal...
bigworm 08-05-2005 01:05 AM
gun metal i have them on my wrx and it was definatly the right choice
spooledwrx 08-05-2005 01:45 AM
Hott pink!
Uncle Scotty 08-05-2005 02:30 AM
...brake dust grey.....
shemoves 08-05-2005 02:33 AM
gunmetal
brianbot5000 08-05-2005 02:33 AM
[QUOTE=Uncle Scotty]...brake dust grey.....[/QUOTE]
x2 - looks great, even after a day at the track.
crazedtuner 08-05-2005 02:38 AM
BLACK!!!! I have the grey '05 wrx and im going to get black rims with a crome lip.
antny 08-05-2005 03:25 AM
thats why i didnt go with gm or bronze or black. I went with gold due to the theme fo my car
MattDell 08-05-2005 03:29 AM
Gold. [i]Duh![/i]
BakedCookies 08-05-2005 08:26 AM
[QUOTE=MattDell]Gold. [i]Duh![/i][/QUOTE]

Hell Yeah :banana: :banana:
volleybrad 08-05-2005 08:33 AM
steel grey
RexSex 08-05-2005 08:52 AM
Honestly? Lime green rims are the best choice. And get that mirror-finish tint on your windows to go with it. Then put a streaky 80s-looking decal along the sides of the car, and you could be a veritable babe magnet.
subywrx 08-05-2005 12:29 PM
I have think silver WRX with gold wheels;like, volk le28n w/polished lip, advan rg1 or 2. Like that chargerspeed STi photo, damn... thats nice. If you get black wheels it won't stand out, don't tell me you want to pay $1k - $3k of wheels and not show it off.
UKjon 08-05-2005 01:58 PM
I have gunmetal/anthracite

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/Elmer12345/539cce82.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/Elmer12345/82469fcc.jpg[/img]

/Jon
tasq 08-05-2005 02:29 PM
[QUOTE=UKjon]I have gunmetal/anthracite

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/Elmer12345/539cce82.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/Elmer12345/82469fcc.jpg[/img]

/Jon[/QUOTE]

give me your car biotch! :lol: :p :alien: :disco: :devil:
2RIP 08-05-2005 03:10 PM
[QUOTE=MikalsWRX]i like the gunmetal[/QUOTE]

Deff, i have a silver STI and thats what im doing. Im getting them painted a gun metal. I cant justify selling these whells. They are too nice. I would not be able to afford an equivalent wheel.
TampaSTI 08-05-2005 08:29 PM
how about painting the BBS the color of are brakes


[IMG]http://x1.putfile.com/8/21619551776.jpg[/IMG]
itjustWoRX 08-06-2005 12:18 AM
SSR GT7's....DARK GREY w/ MACH LIP...worth a look on a PSM car

[IMG]http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/697000-697999/697165_13_full.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/697000-697999/697165_12_full.jpg[/IMG]

---TOM
akinasdevil 08-06-2005 01:10 AM
[QUOTE=TampaSTI]how about painting the BBS the color of are brakes


[IMG]http://x1.putfile.com/8/21619551776.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]

Bronze looks really nice!
9o7wRx7o9 08-06-2005 04:37 AM
Gunmetal w/ Machined Lip IMO.
supermarkus 08-06-2005 04:47 AM
British Black.
Hank3 08-06-2005 08:55 AM
Definitely my cup of tea UKjon :D

[SIZE=1][COLOR=SlateGray]I have the same rims and color[/COLOR][/SIZE]
Bumble Bee 03 08-06-2005 10:13 AM
i would say bronze, volk bronze....:)
bsp 08-06-2005 03:46 PM
I've always liked gunmetal on silver.
John2.5RS 08-06-2005 03:49 PM
My vote
�
Gunmetal/anthracite. I had P1's in antracite and they looked awesome. You can't even see the brakedust, really. They just loose their glossy look.
ps99115 08-06-2005 10:31 PM
[QUOTE=John2.5RS]Gunmetal/anthracite. I had P1's in antracite and they looked awesome. You can't even see the brakedust, really. They just loose their glossy look.[/QUOTE]

I agree. Im kinda feeling gunmetal myself. Does anyone know if the stock BBS wheels look good painted gunmetal??

Thanks for all the replies!!

Jay
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f1vlad Photoshop Thread: Wanna photoshop something? Post requests part 1

f1vlad 08-18-2006 02:59 PM
f1vlad Photoshop Thread: Wanna photoshop something? Post requests
�
I am in a mood to photoshop some chit :) so please leave your requests here :)
Damon 08-18-2006 03:24 PM
michael jackson's face on paris hilton's body.
f1vlad 08-18-2006 03:29 PM
Easy as one-two-three, provide pics.
STiShawn 08-18-2006 03:30 PM
steel grey 06 wrx with 98 rs goldies please and thankyou.

WRX photo's here
[url]http://shawn.illumined.net/wrx.html[/url]

wheel pics here:
[url]http://www.rs25.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=5886&sort=1&cat=6&page=1[/url]
f1vlad 08-18-2006 04:01 PM
[img]http://www.brainsights.com/tmp/photoshop2343.jpg[/img]
Lexington 08-18-2006 04:03 PM
hmm.. good chop, wheels aren't doin it for me, thou
f1vlad 08-18-2006 04:06 PM
no wheels not good, you should stick with STi, I have same car. Those '06 wheels are POS, do like this:
[img]http://www.brainsights.com/wrxtear/foto/--------.misc/05232.jpg[/img]
CharlieMurphy 08-18-2006 04:20 PM
I would like to see a 17" rota g-force in gold and silver...on a 02 silver wrx wagon



[img]http://www.subydude.com/images/prod/products/Wheels/rota/gforce/200/200/gforce_sg1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.modacar.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000002/rota_gforce.jpg[/img]


[img]http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/7075/wagon43jn.jpg[/img]
tasq 08-18-2006 04:55 PM
Gold on silver or grey = BARF.
f1vlad 08-18-2006 04:58 PM
Please give wheels and car's wheels perspecitves the same, so it'll look better.
wrxzboost 08-18-2006 05:07 PM
[QUOTE=tasq]Gold on silver or grey = BARF.[/QUOTE]

hate to see what your car looks like...gold and silver is the best combo.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v701/wrxzboost/siderpf1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v701/wrxzboost/goldrg2s.jpg[/IMG]
CharlieMurphy 08-18-2006 05:08 PM
im having a hard time finding rims that arent titled like that


Ill try to find some better shots.
tasq 08-18-2006 05:09 PM
[QUOTE=wrxzboost]hate to see what your car looks like...gold and silver is the best combo.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v701/wrxzboost/siderpf1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v701/wrxzboost/goldrg2s.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]


Second one is okie... But that is more of a bronze.

First one = VOMIT.

Edit: BTW, has nothing to do with my car... No reason to be a tool bag.
CharlieMurphy 08-18-2006 05:13 PM
[img]http://www.turrifftyres.co.uk/catalog/images/sdtwosilver01.jpg[/img]

[img]http://seriousauto.com/rota_wheels/tarmac/rota_tarmac.jpg[/img]

best one i could find....
CharlieMurphy 08-18-2006 05:22 PM
side shot car

[img]http://www.lionsblade.com/wrxsale/pic2.jpg[/img]
f1vlad 08-18-2006 05:48 PM
[img]http://www.brainsights.com/tmp/photoshop2345.jpg[/img]
taylormade 08-18-2006 09:34 PM
Could you put 6-spoke 99-01 RS Wheels as seen:

[URL=http://members.nasioc.com/ViewMemberPics.cfm?MemberID=1359&PicNumber=5]here[/URL]

on the Red Wagon in post 120 as seen:

[URL=http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=966632&page=5&pp=25]here[/URL]

In Black, Gunmetal, and/or Bronze?
f1vlad 08-21-2006 09:12 AM
Sorry:) had a busy weekend


[img]http://www.brainsights.com/tmp/photoshop3000.jpg[/img]
taylormade 08-21-2006 09:45 AM
Thanks! I need to work on my photoshop skills...
STiShawn 08-21-2006 10:53 AM
thanks Man, I dig them in anthracite more so then the gold.
I'd love a set of 04 STI's but cant afford them.
I do need to lower my car a bit though huh
f1vlad 08-21-2006 10:55 AM
Yeah I have same car like you. I will lower mine after winter. STI rims will make your car look ideal. Try searching. I searched for couple of month. Found amazing deal for $900 for set. Used but look brand new. Then sold my OEM ugly rims for $350.
rayamana 08-21-2006 01:11 PM
Black 06 on some gold sport max please:

car:
[IMG]http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/2315000-2315999/2315918_3_full.jpg[/IMG]

[URL=http://www.sportmaxwheel.com/sportmax_962.shtml#]wheels link[/URL]
f1vlad 08-21-2006 01:26 PM
need better picture, that wheel is sideways
rayamana 08-21-2006 01:36 PM
[IMG]http://www.buywheelstoday.com/images_products/L_2151.jpg[/IMG]

not sure if this is any better?
Saucy 08-21-2006 03:39 PM
[QUOTE=tasq]Gold on silver or grey = BARF.[/QUOTE]
-1

I think it looks great =)
silverF4turbo 08-21-2006 03:47 PM
[QUOTE=wrxzboost]hate to see what your car looks like...gold and silver is the best combo.

[/QUOTE]

It depends STRONGLY on which gold wheels... The cars you've shown are just about the only silver/grey wrx's I've seen with gold wheels that I've liked (regardless of you posting them in this thread). Oh... and I like gold V7 STI wheels on silver :banana:
gslben 08-22-2006 03:09 AM
[img]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f164/gslben/HPIM0574.jpg[/img]



+

[img]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f164/gslben/bbs_re_ci3_l.jpg[/img]
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Java Black vs. Midnight Black Pearl part 1

jroberts 04-14-2004 09:16 PM
Java Black vs. Midnight Black Pearl
�
The 2003 WRX has the Midnight Black Pearl paint color and the 2004 WRX has the Java Black paint. I have the 2003 but would like a 2004 scoop that is for sale.

How much different do the two paints look?
darknightohio 04-14-2004 09:17 PM
04 scoop will not fit an 03.
b_tapper 04-14-2004 09:18 PM
jbp has gold flake in it, mbp is more blue/purplelish in color
MomoWRX 04-14-2004 10:04 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by darknightohio [/i]
[B]04 scoop will not fit an 03. [/B][/QUOTE]

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by b_tapper [/i]
[B]jbp has gold flake in it, mbp is more blue/purplelish in color [/B][/QUOTE]

^^There are two reasons to not get it^^
im imprezd 04-14-2004 10:27 PM
i think those are the 2 MAIN reasons why.hehe...and plus i dont think the design of the 04 scoop goes w/ the bugeyes...its like slappin on a wings west kit on a square jetta..dont do it maan:)
Sputnik 5 04-15-2004 01:34 AM
MBP rules over that Java black!
bunni 04-15-2004 02:02 AM
Whateva!

I love the Java Black - when I Zaioned my car I realized there was green in it. Looks serpentine in the sunlight. Every time I wash my car it attracts bees, it's the gold fleck I'm guessing, they know what's up.

:banana:

But yea - I think the hood scoop question is answered.
mindchatter 04-15-2004 08:23 AM
^^ Yeah, I get LOTSA compliments on my JBP.....and it'd look really nice with a set of gold rims....the gold flake would just set the wheels off.
Rebellion 04-15-2004 09:11 AM
only one year of Java Black.. so you guys will have a rare color. :)
JIN 04-15-2004 09:20 AM
Yeah, I hate my MBP ... glad that Subaru came out with the Java Black for the 04s.

Jin
quest 04-15-2004 09:40 AM
I think jbp would look hot with a set of the sport bronze rota subzeros

[url]http://subydude.com/parts/details.php?7171090[/url]

on a related note...what's the black with red flakes in it called (i think it's a legacy color)
strohausii 04-15-2004 12:22 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by bunni [/i]
[B]Whateva!

I love the Java Black - when I Zaioned my car I realized there was green in it. Looks serpentine in the sunlight. Every time I wash my car it attracts bees, it's the gold fleck I'm guessing, they know what's up.

:banana:

But yea - I think the hood scoop question is answered. [/B][/QUOTE]

...you don't think it has anything to do with the carnuba wax?
strohausii 04-15-2004 12:23 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by strohausii [/i]
[B]...you don't think it has anything to do with the carnuba wax? [/B][/QUOTE]

lol, anyone know if it come from bees too?
dcoty 04-15-2004 01:47 PM
JBP is THE sweetest color....when clean!
Dan:)
MAD REX 04-15-2004 04:21 PM
I think it looks dirty even when it's clean. MBP for life! :banana:
piker28 04-15-2004 04:24 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by JIN[/i]
[B] Yeah, I hate my MBP ... glad that Subaru came out with the Java Black for the 04s.

Jin [/B][/QUOTE]

:furious: :furious:
shinsain 04-15-2004 04:55 PM
is that true about the JBP being only a one year color?

wow, if so, i unknowingly picked a double winner. wow.
lawn boy 04-15-2004 06:44 PM
MBP is sick!!! I love it. I love when people ask me "Dude is your car blue??" :lol:
lawn boy 04-15-2004 06:46 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by bunni [/i]
[B] Every time I wash my car it attracts bees, it's the gold fleck I'm guessing, they know what's up.

[/B][/QUOTE]

who has the pics of the bees all over the WRX intercooler? :lol:
Alpha_32 04-15-2004 07:05 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by darknightohio [/i]
[B]04 scoop will not fit an 03. [/B][/QUOTE]

i've acctually seen a 02/03 with a 04 hoodscoop on clubwrx i'll see if i can find it
mosqito16 04-15-2004 08:59 PM
java black pearl rocks..

random person: "I thought your car was black?"
me: "it is"
random person: "but it looks green....wait, now it looks gold...its
brown!"

me: "Noooo....it's Java Black Pearl!"



:lol:
im imprezd 04-15-2004 11:13 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Alpha_32 [/i]
[B]i've acctually seen a 02/03 with a 04 hoodscoop on clubwrx i'll see if i can find it [/B][/QUOTE]

there is a vendor whos sellin 04 scoops for our 02-03...if anyone was wondering:) ...i just dont think it looks nice
strohausii 04-16-2004 08:45 AM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by mosqito16 [/i]
[B]java black pearl rocks..

random person: "I thought your car was black?"
me: "it is"
random person: "but it looks green....wait, now it looks gold...its
brown!"

me: "Noooo....it's Java Black Pearl!"



:lol: [/B][/QUOTE]

hehehe, did you say it in a buji aristocratic way too (insert Niles Crane Voice):lol:
mosfet 04-16-2004 09:39 AM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by lawn boy [/i]
[B]MBP is sick!!! I love it. I love when people ask me "Dude is your car blue??" :lol: [/B][/QUOTE]

^^^^^

Plus, I was gonna get the yellow, until I noticed how the blue specs came out in the sunlight. If it was overcast, I would have a yellow wrx... :p
mosqito16 04-16-2004 12:56 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by strohausii[/i]
[B] hehehe, did you say it in a buji aristocratic way too (insert Niles Crane Voice):lol: [/B][/QUOTE]

:lol:
allanak 04-16-2004 07:48 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by lawn boy[/i]
[B] MBP is sick!!! I love it. I love when people ask me "Dude is your car blue??" :lol: [/B][/QUOTE]

Yeah...when I ordered my WRX I wanted black and I'd never even seen one before (they had to ship one from another dealer because they had no black). Didn't notice the blue flakes til the next day and I was like :banana:
theJohnson 04-17-2004 01:02 AM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by lawn boy[/i]
[B] MBP is sick!!! I love it. I love when people ask me "Dude is your car blue??" :lol: [/B][/QUOTE]

yeah, i love it when people TELL me my car is blue. no asking. have to explain over and over again, black with blue pearl.
JDM Junkyard 04-18-2004 03:42 AM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by theJohnson[/i]
[B] yeah, i love it when people TELL me my car is blue. no asking. have to explain over and over again, black with blue pearl. [/B][/QUOTE]

Since I hardly wash my car....people ask...is it blue or is it black? And then people that know scoobys will ask...I didn't know they had MBP for an 04......duh.

Ron
catass 04-18-2004 09:26 AM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by lawn boy[/i]
[B] who has the pics of the bees all over the WRX intercooler? :lol: [/B][/QUOTE]

[IMG]http://www.catass.com/junk/bees.jpg[/IMG]
JDM Junkyard 04-18-2004 11:05 AM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by catass[/i]
[B] [IMG]http://www.catass.com/junk/bees.jpg[/IMG] [/B][/QUOTE]

That just suck....i hope those are not Killer bees....

Ron
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Auto-X with pad knockback? part 1

Capt Crunch 04-02-2004 10:47 PM
Auto-X with pad knockback?
�
I have a stoptech BBK and I'm getting pad knockback like crazy. I don't have enough money to replace the bearings, is there anything I can do to prevent the pedal going to the floor after the slolam?

Thanks
angryfist 04-03-2004 06:22 AM
lightly tap teh brakes real quick with your left foot before heavy braking.
Storm 04-03-2004 09:52 AM
I'm having a hard time figuring out what the help you're talking about.....WTH is brake knockback. First I've heard of this term....

You have a BBK, ok, got that. No money for what bearings? brake bearings?....seriously.....what bearings have changed or gone bad because of the BBK?

Pedal to the floor after a slalom....Why? Heat? Capacity probs due to stock M/C and BBK? Are you driving thru the slalom in a "stomp, jerk, stomp" method?

I don't have any problems with stock stuff, so I'm just trying to learn something myself if I can't help you.

Jay Storm
[url]www.sourcemotorsports.com[/url]
D_REX 04-03-2004 10:23 AM
He's talking about his wheel bearings. When they go bad they allow the rotor to move relative to the caliper and push the pads in so that they have a lot more distance to travel before real braking.

The short and simple solution is to stop auocrossing your car. There is a reason that wheel bearings are one of the things they are supposed to check in tech. Fork out the cash and fix your problem or stop competing until you do.
Strepto 04-03-2004 10:48 AM
I know it's not what you want to hear, but I have to agree with D_REX. You shouldn't be autoXing with bad wheel bearings. That's a serious safety issue.
Capt Crunch 04-03-2004 11:59 AM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by D_REX[/i]
[B] He's talking about his wheel bearings. When they go bad they allow the rotor to move relative to the caliper and push the pads in so that they have a lot more distance to travel before real braking.

The short and simple solution is to stop auocrossing your car. There is a reason that wheel bearings are one of the things they are supposed to check in tech. Fork out the cash and fix your problem or stop competing until you do. [/B][/QUOTE]

I've autocrossed once. Apparently this is a widespread problem with WRXs. Stoptech described the bearings as "inferior" and they are not on their way out, they are just not built with enough precision to handle fixed caliper systems. They swapped the brake kit from an old WRX that was having problems to a new one that wasn't and the problem stayed with the old WRX.

I've gotten in the habit of left foot braking, hopefully I'm dexterous enough to do well.
Cosworth 04-03-2004 12:16 PM
Would a floating caliper remedy this then since the ST BBK is a fixed caliper whereas oem is a slider?
D_REX 04-03-2004 03:02 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Capt Crunch [/i]
[B]I've autocrossed once. Apparently this is a widespread problem with WRXs. Stoptech described the bearings as "inferior" and they are not on their way out, they are just not built with enough precision to handle fixed caliper systems. They swapped the brake kit from an old WRX that was having problems to a new one that wasn't and the problem stayed with the old WRX.

I've gotten in the habit of left foot braking, hopefully I'm dexterous enough to do well. [/B][/QUOTE]
The WRX might not have the best wheel bearings ever but they are far better than you describe. I run a fixed 6 pot caliper on the front of my car with rotors the same size as the stoptech kit. I've never experienced any pad knockback in auoX use and I've autocrossed a good bit.

What you are describing is very bad. It's not just regular operation. The time between brake applications is very short in autox, if you have to actually pump the pedal to get braking you have a problem. Something is not operating cprrectly. Please fix it before you hurt yourself or somebody else.

I don't mean to be harsh, I just want to make sure that you know this isn't normal. Some pad knockback "might" be normal with the stoptech kits, personally I think it's at least partially due to the floating rotor design, but you should never have to actually pump the brakes to get them back.
Capt Crunch 04-03-2004 05:18 PM
I withdrew from the auto-x. I don't have the money to replace the bearings, Subaru resuses to cover it under warentee, and I don't have the money to even replace the god damn brakes with the stock units.

I'm stuck. I have a billion frustrations right now and this is just another pleasantry.
Capt Crunch 04-04-2004 11:55 AM
Am I right in assuming that the BBK could have no impact on the condition of the bearings? I tracked the car once, and I did quite well (not stupid with the brakes). If I can prove the the brakes would not affect the bearings then it should be covered under warentee. Do I have a shot at this?
HoRo1 04-04-2004 12:18 PM
If anything StopTechs will slow bearing wear. The rotor assembly has more mass than stock, it has better cooling than stock. These factors should limit heat flow into the hubs and let the wheel bearings run cooler and last longer.
Alleggerita 04-04-2004 01:20 PM
Having had pad knock pad with bearings on their way out I've certainly never had my pedal go to the floor as well as with rotors that didn't run true. In neither case did I ever have apedal go anywhere near the floor. As someone suggested gently tapping the brake with you foor prior to breaking ceratinly works on the long straights on a raoad course ... I have my doubts about slalom or auto X - there is just too much going on.

Anyway, if you pedal goes to the floor it's more likely than not that you have air in your system - maybe introduced when you installed the new brakes. Try to bleed. If there is still no improvment try a vacuum bleeder that often helps to dislodge reluctant air bubbles. And do put in new wheel bearings ...
angryfist 04-04-2004 02:26 PM
i have the stoptech bbk and also get some knockback. not to the point i have to pump the brakes but it engages really low after mulple tirns without braking. if you have to pump the braeks thats defilitly bad. but low and random engagement of brakes unfortunatly is common and there isnt really much you can do about it.

as for the wheel bearings, they should not be worse after installing the bbk. the stoptech will help the wheel bearing life becasue of less heat in the system hwile braking. gary sheehan said that his wrx's bearings would go bad after each race but after he put the stoptechs on they would be good for multiple races.
Capt Crunch 04-04-2004 06:29 PM
So I have a case for the bearings. Also when I say the pedal goes to the floor, I was exagerating, it just goes down really far as if I had massive brake fade. The things still brake, up to the point of ABS going off, but it makes it impossible to heel-toe and I have almost no feel. I'll call the dealer again.
jmott 04-04-2004 06:40 PM
the pedal going to the floor could just be due to your fluid being cooked or your pads being tapered from the track day.



[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Capt Crunch [/i]
[B]So I have a case for the bearings. Also when I say the pedal goes to the floor, I was exagerating, it just goes down really far as if I had massive brake fade. The things still brake, up to the point of ABS going off, but it makes it impossible to heel-toe and I have almost no feel. I'll call the dealer again. [/B][/QUOTE]
bullseye17 04-06-2004 01:53 PM
bearing is cooked, I have / had the same problem.
ITWRX4ME 04-07-2004 10:26 AM
It's funny what you get used to. My bearings aren't bad (that I know of) but I get pad knock back too. I have the stock calipers and OEM slotted rotors. I just got in to the habit of tapping the brake once or twice before I start my braking. No big deal.
D_REX 04-07-2004 10:38 AM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by ITWRX4ME [/i]
[B]It's funny what you get used to. My bearings aren't bad (that I know of) but I get pad knock back too. I have the stock calipers and OEM slotted rotors. I just got in to the habit of tapping the brake once or twice before I start my braking. No big deal. [/B][/QUOTE]

This really sounds like you are just driving your car, which you know has a real problem, and telling yourself that all is fine.

Have you checked your wheel bearings? I'll say it again, this is not normal, something is wrong. It could be something other than wheel bearings, but something is not right. Stoptech claims that the stock wheel bearings are crummy, this causes some knockback in their systems partly because the rotor diameter is larger and the issue is magnified. You are on stock sized rotors so your condition is worse than those with a BBK and the same issue.

Later,
Dustin
ITWRX4ME 04-07-2004 10:52 AM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by D_REX [/i]
[B]This really sounds like you are just driving your car, which you know has a real problem, and telling yourself that all is fine.

Have you checked your wheel bearings? [/B][/QUOTE]
Yes, the only way I know how. I grab the top and bottom of the tire and try to twist it laterally as hard as I can. I grab the sides tire and try to twist it laterally as hard as I can. No movement whatsoever. Supposedly, this is the way to test it. It is more intense that the way tech inspectors at events test it and it has always passed.
So, I'm not just driving a car that has a problem. Pad knock back isn't unusual. In fact, it's relatively common.

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by D_REX [/i]
[B] Stoptech claims that the stock wheel bearings are crummy, this causes some knockback in their systems partly because the rotor diameter is larger and the issue is magnified. You are on stock sized rotors so your condition is worse than those with a BBK and the same issue.

Later,
Dustin [/B][/QUOTE]
Don't know if their claims are true. But, the bigger rotor, has a longer radius and therefore more deflection, given the same bearings. Therefore more knock back.
D_REX 04-07-2004 11:33 AM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by ITWRX4ME [/i]
[B]Yes, the only way I know how. I grab the top and bottom of the tire and try to twist it laterally as hard as I can. I grab the sides tire and try to twist it laterally as hard as I can. No movement whatsoever. Supposedly, this is the way to test it. It is more intense that the way tech inspectors at events test it and it has always passed.
So, I'm not just driving a car that has a problem. Pad knock back isn't unusual. In fact, it's relatively common.[/quote]
If you mean that it's relatively common in hard track driving on super sticky race rubber, then I agree. If you get this driving to work or even autocrossing on street tires then I disagree. It's all about context and I neglected to ask yours, sorry.
elgorey 04-07-2004 01:13 PM
I have never bought the "wiggle wheel" method of testing wheel bearings.
Great way to test tie-rod ends and balljoints, but Im not so sure its effective at diagnosing a wheel bearing problem, especially with the car on the ground. JMO

FWIW, my car has seen many many days on tack and autoX and has never had a knockback or wheel bearing problem. YMMV.


Evan
NotFast 04-07-2004 01:28 PM
Geez, why don't you guys go right to the source to find out what pad knockbad is:

[URL=http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/knockback.htm]Stoptech article on knockback[/URL]

Unless you've got a race car, there's a chance you will experience knockback on the track at some point.
D_REX 04-07-2004 01:38 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by NotFast [/i]
[B]Geez, why don't you guys go right to the source to find out what pad knockbad is:

[URL=http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/knockback.htm]Stoptech article on knockback[/URL]

Unless you've got a race car, there's a chance you will experience knockback on the track at some point. [/B][/QUOTE]

How is this ANY different than what I've been saying here?
GarySheehan 04-07-2004 02:08 PM
Knockback is very common in the WRX. It is not necessarily indicitive of a bearing failure. Some WRXs have quite a bit of knockback, even after having all wheel bearings replaced, and it can be felt in normal street driving. Other WRXs are less suseptible and really need to be leaned on hard to feel knockback.

The only reason I can come up with regarding differences between chassis is some hub carriers must be more flexible than others.

Gary
Sheehan Motor Racing
[url]www.teamSMR.com[/url]
Capt Crunch 04-07-2004 06:55 PM
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by GarySheehan[/i]
[B] Knockback is very common in the WRX. It is not necessarily indicitive of a bearing failure. Some WRXs have quite a bit of knockback, even after having all wheel bearings replaced, and it can be felt in normal street driving. Other WRXs are less suseptible and really need to be leaned on hard to feel knockback.

The only reason I can come up with regarding differences between chassis is some hub carriers must be more flexible than others.

Gary
Sheehan Motor Racing
[url]www.teamSMR.com[/url] [/B][/QUOTE]

Exactly what Stoptech told me. Basically I'm SOL.
Bob Lee 04-08-2004 06:26 PM
Knockback is common to many different platforms and is a well known industry phenomena. Knockback has been observed on Stock WRX systems driven at the limit. We swapped the StopTech brakes from a low milage WRX with no knockback to a higher milage WRX with Knockback and the knockback followed the platform. We knew it would but we did the work to show the owner it was platform dependent.

Knockback is not a StopTech phenomena and certainly not a result of floating rotors. In fact some racers believe that high axle float prevents Knockback. We have not been able to prove this claim.

Knockback is less with floating calipers and this is why a WRX with stock calipers may not exhibit knockback, and then later exhibit the phenomena with a fixed caliper upgrade.

Knockback is directly proportional to the rotor radius. We know many showroom stock racers that see knock back with stock calipers and have learned to tap the brakes before the next braking zone.

I used to race a McLaren M-20 team CanAm car with AP brakes and rotors and had to install antiknock back springs to lessen the knockback. AP has had Knockback springs available for their calipers for years. This was a full on purpose built race car and not a production street car. This is a phenomena that is part of your challenge to race a production car.

Bob Lee
StopTech LLC
Capt Crunch 04-08-2004 07:31 PM
I remember talking with you Bob, you were very helpful. I don't mean to imply that the problem is inherent in your brakes.

There are so many small annoyances with my car that I am thinking of selling it, and building up a cheaper car and getting everything right the first time. If StopTech would be so kind as to make a rear BBK I would like that very much. :)
teamscr 04-09-2004 10:47 PM
WRX knockback comments
�
Hi all. Thought I would chime in after lurking for a bit. In the knockback article I wrote (and that was nicely linked in this thread) my example case was my old Cobra, but I have been tracking my WRX wagon for the past 2 years and have a few comments on its knockback issues...

I instruct at a few high-speed schools per year, and when I first bought my WRX I ran Watkins Glen with stock brakes (but uprated pads and fluid) and 17" Potenza S03's (not a race tire, but better than stock). Even though the car was relatively new, the knockback was so pronounced that I was having to tap the pedal both going into the bus stop and into the toe of the boot. In most other braking zones the pedal was OK, but in those two turns it really felt low.

The bearings checked out no worse than what the dealer expected, so they stayed on the car. However, even around town there was a noticeable difference in pedal height if I simply hit the brakes once for a stop or if I gave them a light tap and then applied them more firmly when coming to a stop. Note I am not talking about racing around town here - this is all normal around-town driving where the difference could be felt.

I have since been in a few other WRXs around town and they all pretty much do the same thing to varying degrees. In fact, I just wrote an article for Car&Driver's "Boost" magazine in which I was evaluating the Praxis System on a WRX and sure enough their car displayed it as well. All on stock brakes.

Now, after installing my StopTech BBK on the WRX last year I returned to the Glen, and sure enough the knockback was worse. Of course, I had 3 other track days and 30,000 miles more on the bearings at that point, but the larger diameter rotors do increase the amount of lateral deflection which causes the knockback issue. Again, tapping the brakes was the cure, but no fault of the brakes themselves.

I also consult for a few professional race teams, and it is surprising how many front-running cars have this same issue. Of course nobody talks about it for fear of exposing a weakness, but it's out there all around. Nobody is immune.

Now, the amount of knockback is due to a number of different factors, but everything else equal the faster you are through the corners, the more issues you will see. More lateral force = more lateral deflection. For this reason, some people will claim to never have a problem, but driving style plays a role.

That pretty much exhausts my comments. Thanks for reading.

james walker, jr.
[email][email�protected][/email]
[url]http://www.teamscR.com[/url]
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