| montyj | 11-06-2003 01:37 PM |
jdm head lights
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�
Ok did some searches. I need help, I'm finshed with the motor and now it is time to address the exterior. I want the non hid jdm head lights. Which ones do I need? I drive an '02 wrx. I keep seeing edm and jdm, I know edm is for european cars, but what is the difference? Do I need a wiring harness for these or not. If not; can someone give specific wiring directions or a link that is clear. Also where is the best place to purchase these?
thanks
thanks
| JIN | 11-06-2003 02:11 PM |
Hey,
both the EDM & the JDM are similar in looks. However, the EDM projects the lights much more noticeably in the correct fashion for us LHD drivers. Secondly, the EDM has levelling motors which I believed the non HID JDM ones don't. So thats a plus point already, although to hook it up is really a PITA.
Both needs to be modified to fit into our wrxes. However, CC-B sells wire harness for them. I bought another harness somewhere, but ended up slicing my own wires as the harness' connection was bad and my lights kept going off. You can try the harness from CC-B though ... not too sure about their quality.
Hope this helps.
Jin
both the EDM & the JDM are similar in looks. However, the EDM projects the lights much more noticeably in the correct fashion for us LHD drivers. Secondly, the EDM has levelling motors which I believed the non HID JDM ones don't. So thats a plus point already, although to hook it up is really a PITA.
Both needs to be modified to fit into our wrxes. However, CC-B sells wire harness for them. I bought another harness somewhere, but ended up slicing my own wires as the harness' connection was bad and my lights kept going off. You can try the harness from CC-B though ... not too sure about their quality.
Hope this helps.
Jin
| Mulder | 11-06-2003 04:10 PM |
JIN is correct, to clarify about the beam patterns-
Both are E-code pattern lights.
JDM lights are set up for driving in Japan and so have a RHD beam pattern. It looks like this-
\__ \__
As you can see the beam rises to the left which will glare into oncoming traffic if the lights are used in a LHD country like the US.
EDM lights have the correct LHD pattern-
__/ __/
The wiring for both is identical except for the addition of the leveling motors on EDMs. However this is optional and doesn't have to be hooked up to use the lights, they can be aimed manually and left alone.
Both are E-code pattern lights.
JDM lights are set up for driving in Japan and so have a RHD beam pattern. It looks like this-
\__ \__
As you can see the beam rises to the left which will glare into oncoming traffic if the lights are used in a LHD country like the US.
EDM lights have the correct LHD pattern-
__/ __/
The wiring for both is identical except for the addition of the leveling motors on EDMs. However this is optional and doesn't have to be hooked up to use the lights, they can be aimed manually and left alone.
| 03bluecuzz | 11-06-2003 10:57 PM |
cc-b? what is cc-b how do i get a hold of them
| Desolate One | 11-07-2003 12:30 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by 03bluecuzz [/i]
[B]cc-b? what is cc-b how do i get a hold of them [/B][/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.cc-b.com[/url]
[B]cc-b? what is cc-b how do i get a hold of them [/B][/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.cc-b.com[/url]
| scrmblr2 | 11-07-2003 01:53 PM |
my 2c
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�
I have been looking at doing the same mod since I saw the sti light. I recently got my edm sti headlight, i believe, and am hoping to install them this weekend with the use of the cc-b harness. Luckilly for my, I am close to cc-b so that is a bonus. The install seems pretty straight forward and it you want, I could probably document/take pics of the install process. Of course, I think I have the edm light, and I am not sure how to tell, but it looks like I have motors on the lights, so I may have to adjust the beam pattern manually. If anyone else reads thi, how do you adjust the beam pattern manually? I may wire the adjustment switch in the future, but for now, just want to get those projectors in and up my bling factor:) Hope this may have helped
| Zola | 11-07-2003 02:51 PM |
Re: my 2c
�
�
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by scrmblr2 [/i]
[B]If anyone else reads thi, how do you adjust the beam pattern manually?[/B][/QUOTE]
An 8mm wrench will do the trick. There is one white hex head for horizontal aim, and another one for vertical aim. Even if you get the leveling motor functionality hooked up, you will need to manually aim the lights first.
[url]http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/aim/aim.html[/url]
[i]* that page appears to be down at the moment, but when it comes back up that will help you.[/i]
[B]If anyone else reads thi, how do you adjust the beam pattern manually?[/B][/QUOTE]
An 8mm wrench will do the trick. There is one white hex head for horizontal aim, and another one for vertical aim. Even if you get the leveling motor functionality hooked up, you will need to manually aim the lights first.
[url]http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/aim/aim.html[/url]
[i]* that page appears to be down at the moment, but when it comes back up that will help you.[/i]
| montyj | 11-11-2003 01:08 PM |
Ok, pics would be cool. Why are the edm lights so much higher than the jdm lights? Can the jdm lights be adjusted enough not to blind people? For what some vendors want for the edm lights I could buy jdm hids, whats up with that? How hard are the leveling motors to wire up? Or for jdm hid's how are is the wiring?
Again thanks for your input, I can't brag enough on the members of this board.
Again thanks for your input, I can't brag enough on the members of this board.
| 02R6 | 11-11-2003 01:37 PM |
I wouldn't think the leveling motors would be that hard to wire if you have the switch that lets you adjust them from inside the cockpit as it should plug right in. Is this correct?
| scrmblr2 | 11-11-2003 02:13 PM |
my thoughts
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�
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by 02R6 [/i]
[B]I wouldn't think the leveling motors would be that hard to wire if you have the switch that lets you adjust them from inside the cockpit as it should plug right in. Is this correct? [/B][/QUOTE]
As far as I can tell, after installing my headlight this weekend, is that there is a separate plug that you need to p[lug into the headlights. After that, you would then need to run wires from that plug to the switch that would be mounted in the dash. Although in theory this is not hard, doing it looks like a pain in the *ss.
[B]I wouldn't think the leveling motors would be that hard to wire if you have the switch that lets you adjust them from inside the cockpit as it should plug right in. Is this correct? [/B][/QUOTE]
As far as I can tell, after installing my headlight this weekend, is that there is a separate plug that you need to p[lug into the headlights. After that, you would then need to run wires from that plug to the switch that would be mounted in the dash. Although in theory this is not hard, doing it looks like a pain in the *ss.
| Zola | 11-11-2003 03:52 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by montyj [/i]
[B]Ok, pics would be cool. Why are the edm lights so much higher than the jdm lights? Can the jdm lights be adjusted enough not to blind people? For what some vendors want for the edm lights I could buy jdm hids, whats up with that? How hard are the leveling motors to wire up? Or for jdm hid's how are is the wiring?
[/B][/QUOTE]
All of these questions have been answered in numerous previous threads....but I'm bored so I'll answer anyway.
Pics. This is the cutoff you want:
[IMG]http://www.socsci.umn.edu/~jkoepp/wrx/visionplus/visionplus_onwall.jpg[/IMG]
The EDM projectors give you that. The JDM projectors give you the opposite (imagine that pic mirrored on the vertical axis). Can they be adjusted? If you want to manually aim the focal point of the beam downward to compensate for the improper cutoff, you'll be sacrificing much of your ability to light the road in front of you. Suboptimal. Some have baked their lights in the oven, taken them apart, and ground down the leveling plate to eliminate the cutoff altogether. If you are really industrious, you could maybe fab yourself a plate that creates the EDM cutoff.
Leveling motor hookup is involved but do-able. Check Scoobymods for pics and install writeup.
Why are the EDMs more expensive? Supply and demand. Really if you pay attention and do some research, you should be able to source them for $850 TOPS. Also, the leveling motors are built in, whereas there are no motors on the JDM halogen projectors. None of the wiring is really that hard if you have a rudimentary grasp of electrical stuff and the ability to wield a soldering iron.
Finally...do some searches (especially under usernames like mulder). This stuff has been covered in great depth many, many times. :)
Joel
[B]Ok, pics would be cool. Why are the edm lights so much higher than the jdm lights? Can the jdm lights be adjusted enough not to blind people? For what some vendors want for the edm lights I could buy jdm hids, whats up with that? How hard are the leveling motors to wire up? Or for jdm hid's how are is the wiring?
[/B][/QUOTE]
All of these questions have been answered in numerous previous threads....but I'm bored so I'll answer anyway.
Pics. This is the cutoff you want:
[IMG]http://www.socsci.umn.edu/~jkoepp/wrx/visionplus/visionplus_onwall.jpg[/IMG]
The EDM projectors give you that. The JDM projectors give you the opposite (imagine that pic mirrored on the vertical axis). Can they be adjusted? If you want to manually aim the focal point of the beam downward to compensate for the improper cutoff, you'll be sacrificing much of your ability to light the road in front of you. Suboptimal. Some have baked their lights in the oven, taken them apart, and ground down the leveling plate to eliminate the cutoff altogether. If you are really industrious, you could maybe fab yourself a plate that creates the EDM cutoff.
Leveling motor hookup is involved but do-able. Check Scoobymods for pics and install writeup.
Why are the EDMs more expensive? Supply and demand. Really if you pay attention and do some research, you should be able to source them for $850 TOPS. Also, the leveling motors are built in, whereas there are no motors on the JDM halogen projectors. None of the wiring is really that hard if you have a rudimentary grasp of electrical stuff and the ability to wield a soldering iron.
Finally...do some searches (especially under usernames like mulder). This stuff has been covered in great depth many, many times. :)
Joel
| montyj | 11-11-2003 04:00 PM |
Man I could use a hint on the vendors, especially at $850
| sevendhappy | 11-11-2003 09:24 PM |
Check w/ Subydude @ [url]http://www.subydude.com.[/url] Either email him or PM (he's on this board). He is a very reliable vendor (check out his reviews in the vendor review forum), and he gets the edms in every now and then. I went through him to get mine. What people have said is true, they are that expensive because they are harder to get a hold of than the jdms.
| SDscooby | 11-12-2003 01:25 AM |
Don't be a dick, buy EDM's and don't blind people.
| montyj | 11-12-2003 09:47 AM |
Subydude is $1025 for edm, I can get the jdm's for $775, surely someone has edm's for $850.
| CC-B | 11-21-2003 01:29 PM |
We have them in stock for $930.00....
I doubt you will be able to find them for much lower on a consistant basis. Subaru themselves just raised the price slightly on these lights, and the US$ isn't exactly performing all that stellar vs. the Euro either....
Eddy
I doubt you will be able to find them for much lower on a consistant basis. Subaru themselves just raised the price slightly on these lights, and the US$ isn't exactly performing all that stellar vs. the Euro either....
Eddy
| NewShockerGuy | 11-22-2003 03:46 AM |
1 Attachment(s)
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Zola Rex [/i]
[B]All of these questions have been answered in numerous previous threads....but I'm bored so I'll answer anyway.
Pics. This is the cutoff you want:
[IMG]http://www.socsci.umn.edu/~jkoepp/wrx/visionplus/visionplus_onwall.jpg[/IMG]
The EDM projectors give you that. The JDM projectors give you the opposite (imagine that pic mirrored on the vertical axis). Can they be adjusted? If you want to manually aim the focal point of the beam downward to compensate for the improper cutoff, you'll be sacrificing much of your ability to light the road in front of you. Suboptimal. Some have baked their lights in the oven, taken them apart, and ground down the leveling plate to eliminate the cutoff altogether. If you are really industrious, you could maybe fab yourself a plate that creates the EDM cutoff.
Leveling motor hookup is involved but do-able. Check Scoobymods for pics and install writeup.
Why are the EDMs more expensive? Supply and demand. Really if you pay attention and do some research, you should be able to source them for $850 TOPS. Also, the leveling motors are built in, whereas there are no motors on the JDM halogen projectors. None of the wiring is really that hard if you have a rudimentary grasp of electrical stuff and the ability to wield a soldering iron.
Finally...do some searches (especially under usernames like mulder). This stuff has been covered in great depth many, many times. :)
Joel [/B][/QUOTE]
Joel,
I have the JDM headlights... see how you have the beams going:
__/ __/
Right where it has the angle on the beam pattern.. I thought you were supposed to line the both up so that they are in the middle? That is how mine is right now... :-(
Here is a quick pic.
Should mine overlap or should I have TWO distinct beams of light? I have both of the beam FOCUSED in the middle so they overlap in the middle giving me a concentrated beam of light... is this wrong?
Note picture is how my JDM's are because they are RHD but I am not sure on how they should be aimed as far as together, two seperate beams...etc?
Thanks,
-Nigel
[B]All of these questions have been answered in numerous previous threads....but I'm bored so I'll answer anyway.
Pics. This is the cutoff you want:
[IMG]http://www.socsci.umn.edu/~jkoepp/wrx/visionplus/visionplus_onwall.jpg[/IMG]
The EDM projectors give you that. The JDM projectors give you the opposite (imagine that pic mirrored on the vertical axis). Can they be adjusted? If you want to manually aim the focal point of the beam downward to compensate for the improper cutoff, you'll be sacrificing much of your ability to light the road in front of you. Suboptimal. Some have baked their lights in the oven, taken them apart, and ground down the leveling plate to eliminate the cutoff altogether. If you are really industrious, you could maybe fab yourself a plate that creates the EDM cutoff.
Leveling motor hookup is involved but do-able. Check Scoobymods for pics and install writeup.
Why are the EDMs more expensive? Supply and demand. Really if you pay attention and do some research, you should be able to source them for $850 TOPS. Also, the leveling motors are built in, whereas there are no motors on the JDM halogen projectors. None of the wiring is really that hard if you have a rudimentary grasp of electrical stuff and the ability to wield a soldering iron.
Finally...do some searches (especially under usernames like mulder). This stuff has been covered in great depth many, many times. :)
Joel [/B][/QUOTE]
Joel,
I have the JDM headlights... see how you have the beams going:
__/ __/
Right where it has the angle on the beam pattern.. I thought you were supposed to line the both up so that they are in the middle? That is how mine is right now... :-(
Here is a quick pic.
Should mine overlap or should I have TWO distinct beams of light? I have both of the beam FOCUSED in the middle so they overlap in the middle giving me a concentrated beam of light... is this wrong?
Note picture is how my JDM's are because they are RHD but I am not sure on how they should be aimed as far as together, two seperate beams...etc?
Thanks,
-Nigel
| mattjk | 11-22-2003 04:30 AM |
See here for EDM + HID
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=457220[/url]
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=457220[/url]
| loreley | 11-22-2003 08:34 AM |
what exactly does the leveling motor do? sorry for the noob question
| MAD REX | 11-22-2003 09:53 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by loreley [/i]
[B]what exactly does the leveling motor do? sorry for the noob question [/B][/QUOTE]
It allows you to adjust the beam up or down from the drivers seat.
Instead of popping your hood and adjusting manually.
[B]what exactly does the leveling motor do? sorry for the noob question [/B][/QUOTE]
It allows you to adjust the beam up or down from the drivers seat.
Instead of popping your hood and adjusting manually.
| loreley | 11-22-2003 10:23 AM |
thanks
| Zola | 11-22-2003 11:03 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by NewShockerGuy [/i]
[B]Should mine overlap or should I have TWO distinct beams of light? I have both of the beam FOCUSED in the middle so they overlap in the middle giving me a concentrated beam of light... is this wrong?
[/B][/QUOTE]
Nigel,
I have always used Daniel Stern's website (in particular [url=http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/aim/aim.html]this aiming page[/url]) to assist the process of aiming my headlights.
Upon careful re-reading of that page, I am not convinced your method is correct. Think about it this way...in order to get a "unified beam" such as you have, either one light has to be aimed WAY to the right or left, or both headlights have to be aimed toward the vehicle's centerline to get them to line up. In either case there are drawbacks. You achieve maximum lighting distance down the road when each lamp is aimed (this assumes proper vertical aim) straight ahead. Your other concern is light thrown to the side of the road. If you keep the left lamp aimed straight ahead and then aim the right lamp far to the left to get it to line up, you've just removed some light normally thrown to the right side of the vehicle. If you aim both lamps toward the vehicle's center line and get them to line up, you've just sacrificed some light off to both sides, AND decreased your down the road lighting distance. Of course, whether they line up or not depends on the surface being lit and how far you are from it. To get the hot spots to line up with this method at the usual aiming distance (25 feet), you'd have to aim each lamp pretty drastically toward the center.
This is an off-the-cuff response from me, I don't know how well the logic holds. I will contact Daniel Stern and post any response he might have to this question.
Joel
[B]Should mine overlap or should I have TWO distinct beams of light? I have both of the beam FOCUSED in the middle so they overlap in the middle giving me a concentrated beam of light... is this wrong?
[/B][/QUOTE]
Nigel,
I have always used Daniel Stern's website (in particular [url=http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/aim/aim.html]this aiming page[/url]) to assist the process of aiming my headlights.
Upon careful re-reading of that page, I am not convinced your method is correct. Think about it this way...in order to get a "unified beam" such as you have, either one light has to be aimed WAY to the right or left, or both headlights have to be aimed toward the vehicle's centerline to get them to line up. In either case there are drawbacks. You achieve maximum lighting distance down the road when each lamp is aimed (this assumes proper vertical aim) straight ahead. Your other concern is light thrown to the side of the road. If you keep the left lamp aimed straight ahead and then aim the right lamp far to the left to get it to line up, you've just removed some light normally thrown to the right side of the vehicle. If you aim both lamps toward the vehicle's center line and get them to line up, you've just sacrificed some light off to both sides, AND decreased your down the road lighting distance. Of course, whether they line up or not depends on the surface being lit and how far you are from it. To get the hot spots to line up with this method at the usual aiming distance (25 feet), you'd have to aim each lamp pretty drastically toward the center.
This is an off-the-cuff response from me, I don't know how well the logic holds. I will contact Daniel Stern and post any response he might have to this question.
Joel
| Kwyjibo | 11-22-2003 12:18 PM |
i have JDM HID lights. I wired in a leveling switch, and with it set to 1 i get ALOT of visibility, and have not been flashed once by on coming traffic.
| NewShockerGuy | 11-22-2003 04:01 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Zola Rex [/i]
[B]Nigel,
I have always used Daniel Stern's website (in particular [url=http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/aim/aim.html]this aiming page[/url]) to assist the process of aiming my headlights.
Upon careful re-reading of that page, I am not convinced your method is correct. Think about it this way...in order to get a "unified beam" such as you have, either one light has to be aimed WAY to the right or left, or both headlights have to be aimed toward the vehicle's centerline to get them to line up. In either case there are drawbacks. You achieve maximum lighting distance down the road when each lamp is aimed (this assumes proper vertical aim) straight ahead. Your other concern is light thrown to the side of the road. If you keep the left lamp aimed straight ahead and then aim the right lamp far to the left to get it to line up, you've just removed some light normally thrown to the right side of the vehicle. If you aim both lamps toward the vehicle's center line and get them to line up, you've just sacrificed some light off to both sides, AND decreased your down the road lighting distance. Of course, whether they line up or not depends on the surface being lit and how far you are from it. To get the hot spots to line up with this method at the usual aiming distance (25 feet), you'd have to aim each lamp pretty drastically toward the center.
This is an off-the-cuff response from me, I don't know how well the logic holds. I will contact Daniel Stern and post any response he might have to this question.
Joel [/B][/QUOTE]
Joel,
Thanks for the reply!
I was thinking the same thing, but I just thought you would want the beam of light to be in the center because that is what you focus on... I have my left headlight turned just a tad more to the inside so I do NOT blink on coming traffic, but my passenger side headlamp is turned more towards the inside... I will turn it out to the right and see how it looks :-) I was not used to a beam cut of pattern, as the stock lights just THROW light everywhere...lol
When it gets dark tonight after I wash my car well see if the aiming goes any faster...lol Took me an hour to aim these damn things.. there is NO EASY way of doing it, I had to take the headlights out, turn it.. pop them back in, screw them in so they were set propperly, unscrew them, pop them out, aim them.. pop them back on...etc And it was sprinkling out... :-(
Oh well hopefully I'll get more light doing it this way.
-Nigel
[B]Nigel,
I have always used Daniel Stern's website (in particular [url=http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/aim/aim.html]this aiming page[/url]) to assist the process of aiming my headlights.
Upon careful re-reading of that page, I am not convinced your method is correct. Think about it this way...in order to get a "unified beam" such as you have, either one light has to be aimed WAY to the right or left, or both headlights have to be aimed toward the vehicle's centerline to get them to line up. In either case there are drawbacks. You achieve maximum lighting distance down the road when each lamp is aimed (this assumes proper vertical aim) straight ahead. Your other concern is light thrown to the side of the road. If you keep the left lamp aimed straight ahead and then aim the right lamp far to the left to get it to line up, you've just removed some light normally thrown to the right side of the vehicle. If you aim both lamps toward the vehicle's center line and get them to line up, you've just sacrificed some light off to both sides, AND decreased your down the road lighting distance. Of course, whether they line up or not depends on the surface being lit and how far you are from it. To get the hot spots to line up with this method at the usual aiming distance (25 feet), you'd have to aim each lamp pretty drastically toward the center.
This is an off-the-cuff response from me, I don't know how well the logic holds. I will contact Daniel Stern and post any response he might have to this question.
Joel [/B][/QUOTE]
Joel,
Thanks for the reply!
I was thinking the same thing, but I just thought you would want the beam of light to be in the center because that is what you focus on... I have my left headlight turned just a tad more to the inside so I do NOT blink on coming traffic, but my passenger side headlamp is turned more towards the inside... I will turn it out to the right and see how it looks :-) I was not used to a beam cut of pattern, as the stock lights just THROW light everywhere...lol
When it gets dark tonight after I wash my car well see if the aiming goes any faster...lol Took me an hour to aim these damn things.. there is NO EASY way of doing it, I had to take the headlights out, turn it.. pop them back in, screw them in so they were set propperly, unscrew them, pop them out, aim them.. pop them back on...etc And it was sprinkling out... :-(
Oh well hopefully I'll get more light doing it this way.
-Nigel
| sfisher71 | 11-22-2003 08:26 PM |
Nigel, you write:
"... I just thought you would want the beam of light to be in the center because that is what you focus on... "
How far away, though? You've essentially aimed your lights into a triangle, with the base made up by the front of your car and the other sides made up by the beams coming out of your headlights. And while this looks good in your driveway, you probably really want to aim your lights so that the center is out where you are looking when you drive. And as fast as these cars can go, you probably want that farther away than your garage door...
If you align your lights so that the center is only ten feet (3 meters) away from your bumper, then at 20 feet (6 m) the lights' "hot spots" are as far apart as your headlights. At 30 feet they're twice that far apart, and by the time you get a little farther out than that there's a nice "black hole" in front of your car. (It's like cutting a slice of pizza: if you cross your slices to make the "point" of your slice of pizza too close to you, the slice on the opposite side will be really long and really wide. Mmmmm, must be almost dinnertime here...)
The object of aiming headlights is to put the lights' "hot spots" out where they'll do you the most good while you're driving, without aligning them so far to either side that you blind oncoming drivers. And because the light beams themselves spread over distance (if they didn't, they'd be lasers :-), the correct way to focus them (as described on Daniel Stern's site) takes this into account.
--Scott Fisher
Tualatin, Oregon
"... I just thought you would want the beam of light to be in the center because that is what you focus on... "
How far away, though? You've essentially aimed your lights into a triangle, with the base made up by the front of your car and the other sides made up by the beams coming out of your headlights. And while this looks good in your driveway, you probably really want to aim your lights so that the center is out where you are looking when you drive. And as fast as these cars can go, you probably want that farther away than your garage door...
If you align your lights so that the center is only ten feet (3 meters) away from your bumper, then at 20 feet (6 m) the lights' "hot spots" are as far apart as your headlights. At 30 feet they're twice that far apart, and by the time you get a little farther out than that there's a nice "black hole" in front of your car. (It's like cutting a slice of pizza: if you cross your slices to make the "point" of your slice of pizza too close to you, the slice on the opposite side will be really long and really wide. Mmmmm, must be almost dinnertime here...)
The object of aiming headlights is to put the lights' "hot spots" out where they'll do you the most good while you're driving, without aligning them so far to either side that you blind oncoming drivers. And because the light beams themselves spread over distance (if they didn't, they'd be lasers :-), the correct way to focus them (as described on Daniel Stern's site) takes this into account.
--Scott Fisher
Tualatin, Oregon
| Zola | 11-23-2003 12:04 AM |
That's exactly what I was getting at Scott...I'm glad I wasn't the only one thinking about that issue. Nigel, you shouldn't have to physically remove the headlight to aim it. With an 8mm wrench, a measuring tape, a flat wall, and a marker, aiming your headlamps should be a snap. Just click on the link in my previous post and you're good to go.
BTW, Daniel Stern replied to my question via email...
[i]Me:[/i] Recently another Subaru owner posed this question to me: should the kink (or elbow) of each headlamp's beam pattern be lined up such that they set directly on top of one another?
[i]DS:[/i] Definitely NOT. Each headlamp is aimed relative to *that headlamp's* axis.
Joel
BTW, Daniel Stern replied to my question via email...
[i]Me:[/i] Recently another Subaru owner posed this question to me: should the kink (or elbow) of each headlamp's beam pattern be lined up such that they set directly on top of one another?
[i]DS:[/i] Definitely NOT. Each headlamp is aimed relative to *that headlamp's* axis.
Joel
| mattjk | 11-23-2003 02:58 AM |
damn, you people need a life :)
| NewShockerGuy | 11-23-2003 09:47 PM |
Scott:
The more I think of it, that IS how I had my headlights.... like a triangle.... I moved the passenger side light more to the right and that seems to have light up the road alittle bit better than what I had...heheheh
Joel:
I still don't understand how you can not take the lights out to aim them? How do you get to the bottom adjuster? I am pretty thin and I still can't git my hand or a wrench or anything like that to get the bottom one... for the top one I can sort of get it but fangling my hand...
I will mess with them more too so I can hopefully get them perfect.
I do quite a bit of highway driving.... one thing I did notice is that the signs that tell you the exits, and speed limits, or the HUGE green signs that say Bla bla Bla township..etc There is a DISTINCT light beam on it, and as I get closer it goes away, but from far away I can see my beam going up and down depending on if I hit a bump/pot hole... where as before with the stock lights I was lucky if I could see period...lol
-Nigel
The more I think of it, that IS how I had my headlights.... like a triangle.... I moved the passenger side light more to the right and that seems to have light up the road alittle bit better than what I had...heheheh
Joel:
I still don't understand how you can not take the lights out to aim them? How do you get to the bottom adjuster? I am pretty thin and I still can't git my hand or a wrench or anything like that to get the bottom one... for the top one I can sort of get it but fangling my hand...
I will mess with them more too so I can hopefully get them perfect.
I do quite a bit of highway driving.... one thing I did notice is that the signs that tell you the exits, and speed limits, or the HUGE green signs that say Bla bla Bla township..etc There is a DISTINCT light beam on it, and as I get closer it goes away, but from far away I can see my beam going up and down depending on if I hit a bump/pot hole... where as before with the stock lights I was lucky if I could see period...lol
-Nigel
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