| satrya | 02-02-2003 08:34 PM |
can't wait for the autometer cluster bezel for your gauges? here's a DIY
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If you:
(1) want to mount your gauges on the cluster bezel like the one autometer has (shown below), but can't wait for them to finally make it available,
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/autometerbezel.jpg[/IMG]
or
(2) want to mount them there but the gauge size is not compatible,
or
(3) want to mount your gauges such that you can easily detach and hide them when parked in certain places,
then this DIY may be useful.
(1) want to mount your gauges on the cluster bezel like the one autometer has (shown below), but can't wait for them to finally make it available,
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/autometerbezel.jpg[/IMG]
or
(2) want to mount them there but the gauge size is not compatible,
or
(3) want to mount your gauges such that you can easily detach and hide them when parked in certain places,
then this DIY may be useful.
| clsmooth71 | 02-02-2003 08:39 PM |
What the??
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:confused: :confused:
| satrya | 02-02-2003 08:43 PM |
Here's how it looks
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Here's a 2 5/8" boost gauge as an example.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod001.jpg[/IMG]
From this angle, it appears similar to the column mount configuration, but in reality, it sits closer to the cluster bezel.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod001.jpg[/IMG]
From this angle, it appears similar to the column mount configuration, but in reality, it sits closer to the cluster bezel.
| satrya | 02-02-2003 08:44 PM |
Re: What the??
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[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by clsmooth71 [/i]
[B]:confused: :confused: [/B][/QUOTE]
Pls be patient, I'm still loading the pics :)
[B]:confused: :confused: [/B][/QUOTE]
Pls be patient, I'm still loading the pics :)
| satrya | 02-02-2003 08:47 PM |
The gauge is mounted using a sheet metal that forms a partial pod on the gauge. The pod attaches to the cluster bezel. As will be evident from the following pictures, you can make as many of these around the cluster bezel to accomodate many gauges.
Here's a simple illustration of what I mean. The red circles are where you might want to add more gauge pods attached to the cluster bezel. The smaller the gauges are, the greater number of gauges you can fit on the cluster, of course. Not that you'd want to though.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod015.jpg[/IMG]
Here's a simple illustration of what I mean. The red circles are where you might want to add more gauge pods attached to the cluster bezel. The smaller the gauges are, the greater number of gauges you can fit on the cluster, of course. Not that you'd want to though.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod015.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 08:54 PM |
Step 1: pull the cluster bezel off
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Pull the cluster bezel off. Picture below shows the location of two phillips head screws. There are also two clips on the bottom side of the cluster. If you have done this before, then ignore the following paragraph.
To remove the cluster bezel, move the steering column to its lowest position. Remove the two phillips head screws on the cluster bezel. Holding on the bottom part of the cluster bezel (to the left and right of the rubber flap shown on the picture below), slowly pull the cluster towards you. It should come off without any problems. Afterwards, you might want to check the parking light switch on the steering column, as it usually will be turned on.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod002.jpg[/IMG]
To remove the cluster bezel, move the steering column to its lowest position. Remove the two phillips head screws on the cluster bezel. Holding on the bottom part of the cluster bezel (to the left and right of the rubber flap shown on the picture below), slowly pull the cluster towards you. It should come off without any problems. Afterwards, you might want to check the parking light switch on the steering column, as it usually will be turned on.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod002.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 08:58 PM |
Step 2: Make a template
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Using a piece of carton or any thick sheet of paper, make a template for the pod. What you want to do is to make the front edge to wrap around the gauge, and have the rear match the form of the cluster bezel.
Start with a square piece, and gradually remove materials until it looks like this, with the edges conforming to the cluster bezel as shown. The idea is to make the template wrap around the cluster bezel all the way to the back.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod003.jpg[/IMG]
Start with a square piece, and gradually remove materials until it looks like this, with the edges conforming to the cluster bezel as shown. The idea is to make the template wrap around the cluster bezel all the way to the back.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod003.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 09:01 PM |
Bend the center edge
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Make sure that the template sits flush with the transparent plastic panel that sits right behind the cluster bezel (not shown; this should still be attached to your speedo/tach cluster). The picture below shows how the template bends such that you don't need to modify the transparent plastic panel.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod004.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod004.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 09:07 PM |
Step 3: more trimming
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Wrap the gauge with the template, and make sure that the gauge orients the way you want to.
Trim the template wherever you need to.
Repeat these, keeping in mind that it's better to remove small amounts of material from the template every time.
Here's a view of how the template attaches to the cluster bezel. The bezel is facing away from the camera, and you can see one of it's white plastic clips. The red circles highlight how the templates have notches to hook itself onto the cluster bezel.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod005.jpg[/IMG]
Trim the template wherever you need to.
Repeat these, keeping in mind that it's better to remove small amounts of material from the template every time.
Here's a view of how the template attaches to the cluster bezel. The bezel is facing away from the camera, and you can see one of it's white plastic clips. The red circles highlight how the templates have notches to hook itself onto the cluster bezel.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod005.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 09:11 PM |
Step 4: Cut the pod from sheet metal
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After several iterations, use the template to make the pod from a sheet of metal. I don't recall what the thickness of the metal was, but it was thin enough to cut using a decent sized pair of paper scissors. Aluminum is preferred over steel of the same thickness. Makes it easier to cut. Roll the flat & cut sheet metal on the gauge to form the pod. Here's the pod, sitting on top of its template. Notice that the sheet metal is bent (in three different areas) such that it clamps to the back of the cluster bezel.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod006.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod006.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 09:18 PM |
Step 5: Simple detachable mechanism
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This is only relevant if you want to have the ability to easily detach the gauge.
Bolt a U-shaped metal bracket on the back of the gauge. The gauge will be held by this U-bracket onto the pod. The picture below shows how it works. The circled area shows a notch cut along the front left side of the pod. On the front right side, the sheet metal does not extend as long, but bends upwards. This allows you to insert the gauge by slipping the left side bracket into the pod's tab on the left side, and rotating it clockwise until the right side bracket (on the gauge) rests on the upward-bend on the right side of the pod.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod007.jpg[/IMG]
If easy removal is not an issue, you could fix the gauge onto the pod in many different ways. For example, make the tab go all the way and wrap around the gauge, and bolt the two tabs together on the bottom side (so that the bolt is not that visible). Or, use zip ties or silicone hose clamps to strap the gauge on the pod.
Bolt a U-shaped metal bracket on the back of the gauge. The gauge will be held by this U-bracket onto the pod. The picture below shows how it works. The circled area shows a notch cut along the front left side of the pod. On the front right side, the sheet metal does not extend as long, but bends upwards. This allows you to insert the gauge by slipping the left side bracket into the pod's tab on the left side, and rotating it clockwise until the right side bracket (on the gauge) rests on the upward-bend on the right side of the pod.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod007.jpg[/IMG]
If easy removal is not an issue, you could fix the gauge onto the pod in many different ways. For example, make the tab go all the way and wrap around the gauge, and bolt the two tabs together on the bottom side (so that the bolt is not that visible). Or, use zip ties or silicone hose clamps to strap the gauge on the pod.
| satrya | 02-02-2003 09:20 PM |
More on the notch
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Below is a closer look of the notch. To prevent the gauge from rotating counter clockwise and falling from the pod, make a series of -90 and +90 degree bends on the left side flap, circled red in the picture. Hence, the U-bracket on the gauge will snap in when mounted on the pod. [B]The bend allows for a quick release of the gauge, should you need to temporarily remove the gauge from sight[/B].
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod008.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod008.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 10:13 PM |
Take into account for structures on the cluster bezel
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Depending on where the pod is attached to the cluster bezel, some notches like one shown below may need to be made on the pod (/sheet metal).
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod009.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod009.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 10:18 PM |
Step 6: Put lining on the pod edges that are in contact with the cluster bezel
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To prevent scarring the cluster bezel, and to hide rough edges, use rubber trim on pod edges that are in contact with the cluster bezel. One easy way is to use the rubber door edge trim sold in auto part stores. It has an adhesive in the center rib, making installation easy. Photo below shows the rubber trim on the pod. Notice again how the pod does not protrude beyond the cluster, so that no modification on the transparent speedo/tach cluster cover is necessary.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod010.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod010.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 10:20 PM |
Another view of the pod on the cluster bezel
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Here's another view on the pod, now mounted on the cluster bezel. The circled areas show the rubber trim. Note the long tab on the left side of the pod, which has a -90 and +90 degree bends to hold the U-bracket in place, and the small upward tab on the right side of the pod. These two tabs hold the bracket that holds the gauge onto the pod.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod011.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod011.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 10:22 PM |
Step 7: Reinstall the cluster gauge
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Now that the pod is attached to the cluster bezel, reattach the cluster bezel to the car. Make sure the parking light switch on the steering column is returned to the right position.
| satrya | 02-02-2003 10:26 PM |
Step 8: attach the gauge to the pod
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Attaching/detaching the gauge to/from the pod is simple. Push the gauge into the pod from the bottom opening of the pod, and insert the left side of the U-bracket into the left-hand-side tab of the pod.
Rotate the gauge clockwise until the right side of the U-bracket rests on the right-hand-side tab of the pod, and the left bracket passes the -90&+90 bends on the left tab. The gauge will not rotate or slide anywhere. Detaching the gauge is simply done by reversing this step.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod012.jpg[/IMG]
Rotate the gauge clockwise until the right side of the U-bracket rests on the right-hand-side tab of the pod, and the left bracket passes the -90&+90 bends on the left tab. The gauge will not rotate or slide anywhere. Detaching the gauge is simply done by reversing this step.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod012.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 10:28 PM |
Closeup of the left side bracket on the tab
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Here's a closeup of the left side of the U-bracket (yellowish) clamped by the left tab. The -90&+90 degree bends on the left tab are now below the bracket, obscured by the steering column in this picture.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod013.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod013.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 02-02-2003 10:32 PM |
Reason for partial enclosure of gauge
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The pod described here only covers the top and sides of the gauge, but not the bottom. The only reason for that is because I wanted to have the easy attach/detach feature. Picture below shows the vacuum line and power wiring behind it that runs to the gauge. Had the pod made full enclosure of the gauge, it would be impossible to easily detach/attach the gauge without removing the cluster bezel every time. With this partial enclosure design, attaching and detaching of the gauge can be done in a matter of seconds. Imho, it's especially nice if you have a nice gauge and park in a questionable area.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod014.jpg[/IMG]
Notice that the right hand side tab "cups" the U-bracket (bronze colored), holding the gauge in place.
That's it for now.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelmod014.jpg[/IMG]
Notice that the right hand side tab "cups" the U-bracket (bronze colored), holding the gauge in place.
That's it for now.
| chris d | 02-02-2003 11:10 PM |
This is a great write up !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I might just have to try, good job! Im gonna try some fiberglass to blend, then paint. I cant wait to try.
| satrya | 02-02-2003 11:18 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by chris d [/i]
[B]This is a great write up !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I might just have to try, good job! Im gonna try some fiberglass to blend, then paint. I cant wait to try. [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks.
With fiberglass, you probably still need to make the sheet metal pod, then use it as the mold, right? One thing I'm not too sure about the fiberglass route is whether or not it will be too brittle, especially in the left tab area (where I have the -90&+90 bends).
I'd bet there will be people in this forum willing to buy your fiberglass version :)
[B]This is a great write up !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I might just have to try, good job! Im gonna try some fiberglass to blend, then paint. I cant wait to try. [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks.
With fiberglass, you probably still need to make the sheet metal pod, then use it as the mold, right? One thing I'm not too sure about the fiberglass route is whether or not it will be too brittle, especially in the left tab area (where I have the -90&+90 bends).
I'd bet there will be people in this forum willing to buy your fiberglass version :)
| satrya | 02-03-2003 02:24 PM |
Template?
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If there is interest in this, I'll see if I can find my template, scan it, and post it here. :)
| Handsdown | 02-03-2003 04:39 PM |
this is kinda a sidebar but...
is that really an STI? the tach says sti but i thought the new sti's had tachs in the center of the gauge cluster...
anyway nice mod. why not just mount it on the steering column like the factory boost gauge? it would be nice to not have to drill into anything though.
the pictures really help though, thanks and good work.
is that really an STI? the tach says sti but i thought the new sti's had tachs in the center of the gauge cluster...
anyway nice mod. why not just mount it on the steering column like the factory boost gauge? it would be nice to not have to drill into anything though.
the pictures really help though, thanks and good work.
| satrya | 02-03-2003 05:05 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Handsdown [/i]
[B]..is that really an STI? the tach says sti but i thought the new sti's had tachs in the center of the gauge cluster...
[/B][/QUOTE]
It's not, and that's why I blur everything but the gauge to avoid having to answer this question. :)
[QUOTE][B] ..anyway nice mod. why not just mount it on the steering column like the factory boost gauge? it would be nice to not have to drill into anything though.
the pictures really help though, thanks and good work. [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. I've had the pics for this for almost half a year now. It's worked fine so far. There are several reasons why I chose the cluster bezel pod approach instead of the column mount.
(1) While both are not too visible from the outside, the column mount requires drilling, just as you said. Either that or strap a huge silicon hose clamp around the steering column, which probably would look too extreme.
(2) The larger 2 5/16" gauges seem rather obstructive placed on the steering column. On the cluster bezel, it only obstructs the 8-9k rpm range, which is practically useless to me.
(3) This is the easiest way I could think of as far as a detachable pod goes. My previous impreza was broken into, and I want to have the ability of making the cabin look oem whenever necessary. Some people may not know how inexpensive my gauge is, and break in if they see one. With this setup, it takes me about 5 seconds to remove the gauge from the pod, and hide them from plain view.
(4) As my third picture illustrated, the cluster bezel can take more gauges than the steering column, should you want to add more gauges later on.
(5) The pod is made of a single sheet metal (plus the rubber lines). No additional screws, zip ties, or glue. Easy to make. With the steering column option, you may need more parts.
[B]..is that really an STI? the tach says sti but i thought the new sti's had tachs in the center of the gauge cluster...
[/B][/QUOTE]
It's not, and that's why I blur everything but the gauge to avoid having to answer this question. :)
[QUOTE][B] ..anyway nice mod. why not just mount it on the steering column like the factory boost gauge? it would be nice to not have to drill into anything though.
the pictures really help though, thanks and good work. [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. I've had the pics for this for almost half a year now. It's worked fine so far. There are several reasons why I chose the cluster bezel pod approach instead of the column mount.
(1) While both are not too visible from the outside, the column mount requires drilling, just as you said. Either that or strap a huge silicon hose clamp around the steering column, which probably would look too extreme.
(2) The larger 2 5/16" gauges seem rather obstructive placed on the steering column. On the cluster bezel, it only obstructs the 8-9k rpm range, which is practically useless to me.
(3) This is the easiest way I could think of as far as a detachable pod goes. My previous impreza was broken into, and I want to have the ability of making the cabin look oem whenever necessary. Some people may not know how inexpensive my gauge is, and break in if they see one. With this setup, it takes me about 5 seconds to remove the gauge from the pod, and hide them from plain view.
(4) As my third picture illustrated, the cluster bezel can take more gauges than the steering column, should you want to add more gauges later on.
(5) The pod is made of a single sheet metal (plus the rubber lines). No additional screws, zip ties, or glue. Easy to make. With the steering column option, you may need more parts.
| Eric SS | 02-03-2003 05:44 PM |
Very nice mod and good writeup. Is autometer currently working on a pod for the WRX or 98-01 GC8 style cars?
Eric
Eric
| satrya | 02-03-2003 06:01 PM |
I don't think so.
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[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Eric v2.0 [/i]
[B]Very nice mod and good writeup. Is autometer currently working on a pod for the WRX or 98-01 GC8 style cars?
Eric [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. To the best of my knowledge, the cluster bezel pod under development is for the GDA/GDB Impreza. If you go to [url]www.autometer.com/hp[/url] and go to their "2002 new products" --> "gauge works",
there listed, part # 20015, is a cluster bezel pod for WRX, that takes two 2 1/16" gauges. However, many threads have mentioned that despite their appearance at SEMA etc, that item has never been available for purchase for quite some time now. It seems to fall under "indefinite development" projects. Iirc, they make and [I]sell[/I] A-pillar pods for the GM/GC/GF and GD/GG.
Reading posts on "when is the Autometer cluster bezel pod ever going to be available for sale" made me do this writeup. I figured since the autometer pods may not be available for a while, why not post this simple DIY. :)
[B]Very nice mod and good writeup. Is autometer currently working on a pod for the WRX or 98-01 GC8 style cars?
Eric [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. To the best of my knowledge, the cluster bezel pod under development is for the GDA/GDB Impreza. If you go to [url]www.autometer.com/hp[/url] and go to their "2002 new products" --> "gauge works",
there listed, part # 20015, is a cluster bezel pod for WRX, that takes two 2 1/16" gauges. However, many threads have mentioned that despite their appearance at SEMA etc, that item has never been available for purchase for quite some time now. It seems to fall under "indefinite development" projects. Iirc, they make and [I]sell[/I] A-pillar pods for the GM/GC/GF and GD/GG.
Reading posts on "when is the Autometer cluster bezel pod ever going to be available for sale" made me do this writeup. I figured since the autometer pods may not be available for a while, why not post this simple DIY. :)
| Eric SS | 02-03-2003 07:16 PM |
Re: I don't think so.
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[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by satrya [/i]
[B]
Thanks. To the best of my knowledge, the cluster bezel pod under development is for the GDA/GDB Impreza. If you go to [url]www.autometer.com/hp[/url] and go to their "2002 new products" --> "gauge works",
there listed, part # 20015, is a cluster bezel pod for WRX, that takes two 2 1/16" gauges. However, many threads have mentioned that despite their appearance at SEMA etc, that item has never been available for purchase for quite some time now. It seems to fall under "indefinite development" projects. Iirc, they make and [I]sell[/I] A-pillar pods for the GM/GC/GF and GD/GG.
Reading posts on "when is the Autometer cluster bezel pod ever going to be available for sale" made me do this writeup. I figured since the autometer pods may not be available for a while, why not post this simple DIY. :) [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks for the info. I have their A-pillar pod and would like one of those dash bezel pods. I'll have to write and bug them :)
Eric
[B]
Thanks. To the best of my knowledge, the cluster bezel pod under development is for the GDA/GDB Impreza. If you go to [url]www.autometer.com/hp[/url] and go to their "2002 new products" --> "gauge works",
there listed, part # 20015, is a cluster bezel pod for WRX, that takes two 2 1/16" gauges. However, many threads have mentioned that despite their appearance at SEMA etc, that item has never been available for purchase for quite some time now. It seems to fall under "indefinite development" projects. Iirc, they make and [I]sell[/I] A-pillar pods for the GM/GC/GF and GD/GG.
Reading posts on "when is the Autometer cluster bezel pod ever going to be available for sale" made me do this writeup. I figured since the autometer pods may not be available for a while, why not post this simple DIY. :) [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks for the info. I have their A-pillar pod and would like one of those dash bezel pods. I'll have to write and bug them :)
Eric
| Dick Fitzwell | 02-07-2003 07:43 PM |
holy poop mcguyver, good job!:)
| satrya | 02-08-2003 12:46 AM |
[QUOTE][B]holy poop mcguyver, good job!:) [/B][/QUOTE] thanks
| satrya | 04-09-2003 01:24 PM |
Downloadable template
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I got a request to make the template available. Here's a scan of my template. It wasn't the final shape, as I did some more trimming before the final product. But it should provide a good start. The file size is about 350kb. I drew 1 inch grid in case the printout is a bit distorted.
[URL=http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelpodtemplate.pdf]bezel pod template[/URL]
[URL=http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/clusterbezel/bezelpodtemplate.pdf]bezel pod template[/URL]
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