| tekgnosis | 10-05-2006 09:16 PM |
DIY boost gauge help (mechanical)
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for the boost gauge...where did you guys splice in for the sensor?
can I tap into the fuel pressure regulator air hose? or perhaps the blow off valves hose that goes to the throttle body?
and while I'm at it...where did you tapp in for the oil pressure sensor?
any help would be greatly appreciated...my gauges didn't come with instructions, and it seems no matter what site i search (here, i-club, scoobymods, rs25, etc) I can't find a definitive answer :(
can I tap into the fuel pressure regulator air hose? or perhaps the blow off valves hose that goes to the throttle body?
and while I'm at it...where did you tapp in for the oil pressure sensor?
any help would be greatly appreciated...my gauges didn't come with instructions, and it seems no matter what site i search (here, i-club, scoobymods, rs25, etc) I can't find a definitive answer :(
| Vicious LSD | 10-05-2006 09:39 PM |
tee it by the fuel pressure regulator. I have defi's and mounted the sensor in the oil galley uner the intercooler.
| UkNuck | 10-05-2006 10:03 PM |
The recommended place for the boost gauge is to tee off the BOV line
For oil pressure you have a few options - 2 oil gallery locations in the block (one has the stock pressure switch for the oil pressure warning light) or use a sandwich adapter on the filter. I prefer the gallery:
[URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13928573&postcount=12"]PICS[/URL]
I'm in O-town too - if you need a walk-through PM me
For oil pressure you have a few options - 2 oil gallery locations in the block (one has the stock pressure switch for the oil pressure warning light) or use a sandwich adapter on the filter. I prefer the gallery:
[URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13928573&postcount=12"]PICS[/URL]
I'm in O-town too - if you need a walk-through PM me
| dibblejr | 10-05-2006 10:06 PM |
Boost guage install
[img]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h246/dibblejr/boost20tap2.jpg[/img]
Oil Pressure you can buy a oil filter sandwich adapter which simplifies it
[img]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h246/dibblejr/boost20tap2.jpg[/img]
Oil Pressure you can buy a oil filter sandwich adapter which simplifies it
| RP31 | 10-05-2006 10:06 PM |
DO NOT tee in into the FPR's vacuum line. At least one person has done that, screwed it up, had the line blow off, and kissed their engine goodbye in short order. Stick with the recommended spot, and the spot that Subaru tees into for the factory gauge - the line at the BPV.
Edit: Yep, right where Jay-R posted.
Edit: Yep, right where Jay-R posted.
| SLKatzdorn | 10-05-2006 10:18 PM |
BOV line
| Vicious LSD | 10-05-2006 10:34 PM |
well just to let you know I installed my defis and it says to tee on the FPR line...
| JBravo920 | 10-05-2006 10:37 PM |
Subaru from the factory uses the tee into the bpv line, so I would trust their recomendation over defi's.
| dibblejr | 10-05-2006 11:06 PM |
You probably notice that being connected to the FPR line that it fluctuates. The BOV is recommended.
If the line pops off at the FPR you willblow your turbo. Do a search and learn something that you do not know.
Jay-R
[QUOTE=Vicious LSD;15512247]well just to let you know I installed my defis and it says to tee on the FPR line...[/QUOTE]
If the line pops off at the FPR you willblow your turbo. Do a search and learn something that you do not know.
Jay-R
[QUOTE=Vicious LSD;15512247]well just to let you know I installed my defis and it says to tee on the FPR line...[/QUOTE]
| Vicious LSD | 10-06-2006 08:33 AM |
learn something I dont know? LMAO..... every subaru i worked on and at the dealership i worked at teed off the FPR. We all must be wrong and dont know ****. Search MSPT Metric Subaru Performance Tuning. You will see we have built plenty of fast cars with no problem.
| Vicious LSD | 10-06-2006 08:34 AM |
Also check SQC and LISC. You will hear nothing but good things about MSPT.....
| dibblejr | 10-06-2006 09:42 AM |
And the dealers actually know almost nothing about performance cars other than stock parts and replacements.
It's your car "T" off anything you want, but by chance your line blows off while driving I will be the one to LMAO when you post " Blown motor due to boost guage line popping off".
If you read my profile I know a little about racing and building/ tuning our cars. Just a little though as I am doing a complete engine build in my garage and I will be opening a perf shop once I retire from the Army.
Nobody is too old to learn something, nobody knows everything even though as humans most cant admit it. Do a little reading on the subject, you never know what you may pick up.
Jay-R
[QUOTE=Vicious LSD;15515504]learn something I dont know? LMAO..... every subaru i worked on and at the dealership i worked at teed off the FPR. We all must be wrong and dont know ****. Search MSPT Metric Subaru Performance Tuning. You will see we have built plenty of fast cars with no problem.[/QUOTE]
It's your car "T" off anything you want, but by chance your line blows off while driving I will be the one to LMAO when you post " Blown motor due to boost guage line popping off".
If you read my profile I know a little about racing and building/ tuning our cars. Just a little though as I am doing a complete engine build in my garage and I will be opening a perf shop once I retire from the Army.
Nobody is too old to learn something, nobody knows everything even though as humans most cant admit it. Do a little reading on the subject, you never know what you may pick up.
Jay-R
[QUOTE=Vicious LSD;15515504]learn something I dont know? LMAO..... every subaru i worked on and at the dealership i worked at teed off the FPR. We all must be wrong and dont know ****. Search MSPT Metric Subaru Performance Tuning. You will see we have built plenty of fast cars with no problem.[/QUOTE]
| tekgnosis | 10-06-2006 10:25 AM |
Awesome, thanks guys...the pics really helped.
I'll hit the blow off valve. I'm not too happy about having to remove the intercooler. :(
My intercooler is massive, and I have the perrin hoses. Installing it took at least an hour. I had to wrestle with both hoses to try and get it to fit. Hopefully it won't take that long a second time though. I ended up putting the turbo hose on first, and then creasing the throttle body coupler in half while I slid the intercooler downwards.
This is awesome info though...thanks so much guys! It's funny that you showed me the oil temp too...as that's the three pack I'm going with: oil temp, pressure, and boost :)
thanks!
I'll hit the blow off valve. I'm not too happy about having to remove the intercooler. :(
My intercooler is massive, and I have the perrin hoses. Installing it took at least an hour. I had to wrestle with both hoses to try and get it to fit. Hopefully it won't take that long a second time though. I ended up putting the turbo hose on first, and then creasing the throttle body coupler in half while I slid the intercooler downwards.
This is awesome info though...thanks so much guys! It's funny that you showed me the oil temp too...as that's the three pack I'm going with: oil temp, pressure, and boost :)
thanks!
| tekgnosis | 10-06-2006 10:40 AM |
as an aside...could i also just "T" the temp sensor location (under the alternator), and use it to check temp and pressure?
Or would the temperature reading be a bit innacurate due to the oil hitting ambient temps?
Or would the temperature reading be a bit innacurate due to the oil hitting ambient temps?
| dibblejr | 10-06-2006 11:33 AM |
You do not have to take off the TMIC to install the boost guage, or are you doing something else?
If you buy a sandwich adapter it has enough ports that you could use it for both oil temp and presssure.
The galley plug is cheaper but can be a PITA to get at.
For all power connections you can tap into the clock wires. FYI- do not try to get your guages to connect to the dimmer, it wont work and you will blow fuses trying.
Jay-R
[QUOTE=tekgnosis;15516736]as an aside...could i also just "T" the temp sensor location (under the alternator), and use it to check temp and pressure?
Or would the temperature reading be a bit innacurate due to the oil hitting ambient temps?[/QUOTE]
If you buy a sandwich adapter it has enough ports that you could use it for both oil temp and presssure.
The galley plug is cheaper but can be a PITA to get at.
For all power connections you can tap into the clock wires. FYI- do not try to get your guages to connect to the dimmer, it wont work and you will blow fuses trying.
Jay-R
[QUOTE=tekgnosis;15516736]as an aside...could i also just "T" the temp sensor location (under the alternator), and use it to check temp and pressure?
Or would the temperature reading be a bit innacurate due to the oil hitting ambient temps?[/QUOTE]
| ekw | 10-06-2006 12:27 PM |
are you pulling the TMIC to get to the firewall grommet?
| tekgnosis | 10-07-2006 10:29 AM |
pulling the TMIC to get to the galley plug so that I can mount the oil pressure sensor.
That's interesting about the dimmer...I was going to hook it up to the headlight on/off switch. What happened to blow the fuses? did she draw too much current? Thanks for the heads up...it's appreciated!
That's interesting about the dimmer...I was going to hook it up to the headlight on/off switch. What happened to blow the fuses? did she draw too much current? Thanks for the heads up...it's appreciated!
| dibblejr | 10-07-2006 01:06 PM |
Nope, when you try to connect it to the dimmer wire it just may blow the fuse.
Personnaly I would connect it to the clock wiring thats where most everyone connects it, it is easy to get to.
Best to hook up when it is dark so you can see the brightness of the guage lighting.
Jay-R
Personnaly I would connect it to the clock wiring thats where most everyone connects it, it is easy to get to.
Best to hook up when it is dark so you can see the brightness of the guage lighting.
Jay-R
| tekgnosis | 10-07-2006 08:23 PM |
aw crap...no can do. I've got a 2000 RS with a swap, so I'm going to have to pull the hot/switched/dimmed source from the steering column, or that area.
I'll solder all three gauges wires together and make a plug out of it. That way if it blows my fuses, I can disconnect the dimmer lead.
Thanks for the info bro!
I'll solder all three gauges wires together and make a plug out of it. That way if it blows my fuses, I can disconnect the dimmer lead.
Thanks for the info bro!
| jonney_boy | 10-08-2006 11:27 AM |
I had just installed a manual boost guage the other day and DID connect it to the dimmer line.. it works fine (autometer guage.. so it's only powering one 3.x watt bulb).
I found the dimmer line behind the stock radio..... if you look on you radio harness there is a spair plug (2 wires) tucked behind taped back. We just stuck 2 quick connects into this and called it good.
Is this line not supposed to be used for this purpose????
I found the dimmer line behind the stock radio..... if you look on you radio harness there is a spair plug (2 wires) tucked behind taped back. We just stuck 2 quick connects into this and called it good.
Is this line not supposed to be used for this purpose????
| sti robot | 10-08-2006 02:45 PM |
You DO NOT have to remove the intercooler. It just makes it easier. You can avoid removing the intercooler by using the help of another person, a wire hanger and a flashlight.
| Mulder | 10-08-2006 04:00 PM |
The dimming circuit used by Subaru is fixed positive/variable negative. This is the opposite of what most mfrs. do and electrical gauges are usually wired with the illumination and measurement circuits sharing a common ground, with a positive connection for illumination. If you connect your factory dimming circuit to such a gauge the illumination fuse may blow as a result, or worse the dimming module. The only safe way to connect this type of gauge for variable dimming is with a circuit that "flips" the polarity to fixed negative/variable positive.
The reason the dimming works with a mechanical gauge is that the only electrical connection is for the lighting and there is no shared common to cause a problem.
The reason the dimming works with a mechanical gauge is that the only electrical connection is for the lighting and there is no shared common to cause a problem.
| jonney_boy | 10-08-2006 04:02 PM |
AH... yes.... the mechanical guage I got only has a light bulb in it... hence it was grounded to the same plug.. (2 wires... positive + neg).......
I didn't realize that other guages where different.... I just put a multi meter on the plug and determined it would work for my case :)
I didn't realize that other guages where different.... I just put a multi meter on the plug and determined it would work for my case :)
| dibblejr | 10-08-2006 06:15 PM |
Yeah, I got the boost guage to work fine on the dimmer circuit, however when I connected the oil press and EGT the fuse blew, luckily.
I just disconnected the wires ond ran them all to the clock +-. I do not have the dimmer feature but thats ok. Cheaper to blow the fuse and learn than to fry the complete circuit.
FWIW
Jay-R
I just disconnected the wires ond ran them all to the clock +-. I do not have the dimmer feature but thats ok. Cheaper to blow the fuse and learn than to fry the complete circuit.
FWIW
Jay-R
| tekgnosis | 10-10-2006 08:50 PM |
I got my oil temp/pressure gauges installed over the weekend (with turkey...canadian thanksgiving).
I tried tapping into the dimmer switch, but it only gives 0.9 volts when 'on', I believe. So, it wouldn't power the gauges. I just tapped the hot and dimmer wires from the gauges to a switched 12V source. Not the best solution, as the lights are always on...but at least I can see 'em.
For the oil sensors...I definitely had to remove the intercooler. I have a huge top mount, so there is NO room between it, the bov hose, and the block. It's tighter than a camel's arse in a sandstorm. Pain in the butt no doubt, but it paid off.
Thanks again for the help guys...now I just need to get the pod installed (in the mail).
I tried tapping into the dimmer switch, but it only gives 0.9 volts when 'on', I believe. So, it wouldn't power the gauges. I just tapped the hot and dimmer wires from the gauges to a switched 12V source. Not the best solution, as the lights are always on...but at least I can see 'em.
For the oil sensors...I definitely had to remove the intercooler. I have a huge top mount, so there is NO room between it, the bov hose, and the block. It's tighter than a camel's arse in a sandstorm. Pain in the butt no doubt, but it paid off.
Thanks again for the help guys...now I just need to get the pod installed (in the mail).
| Bill Shoffner | 01-25-2007 09:32 AM |
Did you get an answer to this question?
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[QUOTE=tekgnosis;15516736]as an aside...could i also just "T" the temp sensor location (under the alternator), and use it to check temp and pressure?
Or would the temperature reading be a bit inaccurate due to the oil hitting ambient temps?[/QUOTE]
Would this work? It would be easy enough to make a Y-connector with spade lugs. I'm trying to avoid buying an oil temp sensor from Subaru... $159? I don't think so!
Also, my '01 Foster is NA, so where should I tee in the boost gauge?:confused:
Or would the temperature reading be a bit inaccurate due to the oil hitting ambient temps?[/QUOTE]
Would this work? It would be easy enough to make a Y-connector with spade lugs. I'm trying to avoid buying an oil temp sensor from Subaru... $159? I don't think so!
Also, my '01 Foster is NA, so where should I tee in the boost gauge?:confused:
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