| aspera | 07-19-2003 10:22 PM |
Recently removed:
*black foam chunk in rear of right front fender (has metal or plastic in it) It slips out through the fender liner with a little work. It's held in place by a plastic nut.
*front tweeters (I replaced my speakers long ago with some lightweight Kenwood untis, so I don't need the extra tweeters).
*rear speakers
*foil covered tar in rear doors
*dead pedal (pretty chunky) Why isn't the floor just shaped that way?
*plastic vents that go to under the seats
*heavy sound deadening draped over the hump (getting the chunk under the airbag computer (?) was a real pain)
*rear parcel shelf cover (including Orciari CHMSL blank, which rattled)
twhawky, my brain hurts from reading your post. Your ideas about a lightweight radiator and a fuel cell are good ones, though. The problem with the fuel cell is where to mount it. The stock tank is in a great place (low, inside the wheelbase). The fuel cell would also be replacing a plastic tank, not a steel one. There wouldn't be enough weight savings to justify the cost. Especially, if you start messing around with fuel vapor recovery and stuff.
The radiator is already made out of aluminum. The fan shrouds are plastic. There's not much room for savings here.
What I'd like to see is some way to relocate the radiator to the trunk. That would leave room for a turbo in front of the engine.:)
*black foam chunk in rear of right front fender (has metal or plastic in it) It slips out through the fender liner with a little work. It's held in place by a plastic nut.
*front tweeters (I replaced my speakers long ago with some lightweight Kenwood untis, so I don't need the extra tweeters).
*rear speakers
*foil covered tar in rear doors
*dead pedal (pretty chunky) Why isn't the floor just shaped that way?
*plastic vents that go to under the seats
*heavy sound deadening draped over the hump (getting the chunk under the airbag computer (?) was a real pain)
*rear parcel shelf cover (including Orciari CHMSL blank, which rattled)
twhawky, my brain hurts from reading your post. Your ideas about a lightweight radiator and a fuel cell are good ones, though. The problem with the fuel cell is where to mount it. The stock tank is in a great place (low, inside the wheelbase). The fuel cell would also be replacing a plastic tank, not a steel one. There wouldn't be enough weight savings to justify the cost. Especially, if you start messing around with fuel vapor recovery and stuff.
The radiator is already made out of aluminum. The fan shrouds are plastic. There's not much room for savings here.
What I'd like to see is some way to relocate the radiator to the trunk. That would leave room for a turbo in front of the engine.:)
| 128d | 07-20-2003 12:25 AM |
Chop the top. :D That should be good for a few houndred pounds.
| aspera | 07-20-2003 02:31 AM |
We have a comedian.:) HA! I can top that.
Drill speed holes (like 2 inch or so) in the roof and plug them with plastic plugs (or use duct tape). That way structual integrity is retained, yet mass is removed. The roof will look like Swiss cheese, but provide great ventiliation and lighting.
The aerodynamics of the car would change. The sun visors would get sucked to the roof and air would blow all over the back seat area.
This whole idea is very interesting. I might have to try it....where is your car parked?:)
Drill speed holes (like 2 inch or so) in the roof and plug them with plastic plugs (or use duct tape). That way structual integrity is retained, yet mass is removed. The roof will look like Swiss cheese, but provide great ventiliation and lighting.
The aerodynamics of the car would change. The sun visors would get sucked to the roof and air would blow all over the back seat area.
This whole idea is very interesting. I might have to try it....where is your car parked?:)
| aspera | 07-20-2003 02:33 AM |
Peoria! I was born there. Now all I have to do is look your address up in the phone book.:)
| 128d | 07-20-2003 03:03 AM |
You were born in Peoria. Nice can you please tell me where there is something to do down there? Anything at all. (PS- I just go to school down there.)
| aspera | 07-20-2003 03:44 AM |
Move far away from Peoria. It worked for me.:)
Seriously though, Peoria is located alongside the Illinois River. Since you have a Subaru, I'd suggest driving the "World's Most Beautiful Drive". See how good it really is. IIRC, it winds through a huge park on the bluff of the river.
If that doesn't work, be a Peoria hipster and drink some PBR!
Seriously though, Peoria is located alongside the Illinois River. Since you have a Subaru, I'd suggest driving the "World's Most Beautiful Drive". See how good it really is. IIRC, it winds through a huge park on the bluff of the river.
If that doesn't work, be a Peoria hipster and drink some PBR!
| ellisnc | 07-20-2003 06:14 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by aspera [/i]
[B]Recently removed:
*black foam chunk in rear of right front fender (has metal or plastic in it) It slips out through the fender liner with a little work. It's held in place by a plastic nut.
*front tweeters (I replaced my speakers long ago with some lightweight Kenwood untis, so I don't need the extra tweeters).
*rear speakers
*foil covered tar in rear doors
*dead pedal (pretty chunky) Why isn't the floor just shaped that way?
*plastic vents that go to under the seats
*heavy sound deadening draped over the hump (getting the chunk under the airbag computer (?) was a real pain)
*rear parcel shelf cover (including Orciari CHMSL blank, which rattled)
twhawky, my brain hurts from reading your post. Your ideas about a lightweight radiator and a fuel cell are good ones, though. The problem with the fuel cell is where to mount it. The stock tank is in a great place (low, inside the wheelbase). The fuel cell would also be replacing a plastic tank, not a steel one. There wouldn't be enough weight savings to justify the cost. Especially, if you start messing around with fuel vapor recovery and stuff.
The radiator is already made out of aluminum. The fan shrouds are plastic. There's not much room for savings here.
What I'd like to see is some way to relocate the radiator to the trunk. That would leave room for a turbo in front of the engine.:) [/B][/QUOTE]
I replaced my radiator with a Fluidyne and it is not lighter believe me. The engine runs a ton cooler at the track though. I'm going to have to crack the rear door cards off and see this "foil covered tar" you speak of. :)
[B]Recently removed:
*black foam chunk in rear of right front fender (has metal or plastic in it) It slips out through the fender liner with a little work. It's held in place by a plastic nut.
*front tweeters (I replaced my speakers long ago with some lightweight Kenwood untis, so I don't need the extra tweeters).
*rear speakers
*foil covered tar in rear doors
*dead pedal (pretty chunky) Why isn't the floor just shaped that way?
*plastic vents that go to under the seats
*heavy sound deadening draped over the hump (getting the chunk under the airbag computer (?) was a real pain)
*rear parcel shelf cover (including Orciari CHMSL blank, which rattled)
twhawky, my brain hurts from reading your post. Your ideas about a lightweight radiator and a fuel cell are good ones, though. The problem with the fuel cell is where to mount it. The stock tank is in a great place (low, inside the wheelbase). The fuel cell would also be replacing a plastic tank, not a steel one. There wouldn't be enough weight savings to justify the cost. Especially, if you start messing around with fuel vapor recovery and stuff.
The radiator is already made out of aluminum. The fan shrouds are plastic. There's not much room for savings here.
What I'd like to see is some way to relocate the radiator to the trunk. That would leave room for a turbo in front of the engine.:) [/B][/QUOTE]
I replaced my radiator with a Fluidyne and it is not lighter believe me. The engine runs a ton cooler at the track though. I'm going to have to crack the rear door cards off and see this "foil covered tar" you speak of. :)
| 128d | 07-20-2003 11:03 AM |
The Lucky Lady can only be fun for so long. :lol: Thre are some fun roads I will admit.
| aspera | 07-21-2003 11:59 AM |
I just got done pulling the "rear subframe plate with the weight in it" thingy. I left the whole thing off for now. I'm a little nervous on this one, but I checked it out pretty closely. It doesn't seem to do much. It basically boxes the front part of the subframe ahead of the diff. The top part of the subframe has a beefy weld where it meets the front beam of the subframe. The weld goes all the way around where the pieces meet.
The part I removed doesn't have anything to do with stopping the diff from rolling forward (very dangerous), so that's good. I also have a rear skidplate, which nearly does the same thing as the part I removed. The weight on the plate seems to be there for vibration damping or in case the propshaft comes loose.
It doesn't look like it would be an effective propshaft loop. It's too far towards the end of the shaft. I guess it might prevent a loose shaft from smacking the fuel tanks. Yikes!
Anybody got info on this?
The part I removed doesn't have anything to do with stopping the diff from rolling forward (very dangerous), so that's good. I also have a rear skidplate, which nearly does the same thing as the part I removed. The weight on the plate seems to be there for vibration damping or in case the propshaft comes loose.
It doesn't look like it would be an effective propshaft loop. It's too far towards the end of the shaft. I guess it might prevent a loose shaft from smacking the fuel tanks. Yikes!
Anybody got info on this?
| aspera | 11-01-2003 08:59 PM |
No problems so far.
Lately, I've removed all of the firewall and under-carpet sound deadening material. That's the foam stuff with black rubber on it. It takes a while, but it can be done. Have BandAids handy.:D
I also removed the overly complicated ECU brackets. The ECU mounts up fine just by itself if you tilt it sideways a little bit.
Lately, I've removed all of the firewall and under-carpet sound deadening material. That's the foam stuff with black rubber on it. It takes a while, but it can be done. Have BandAids handy.:D
I also removed the overly complicated ECU brackets. The ECU mounts up fine just by itself if you tilt it sideways a little bit.
| billzebub | 11-01-2003 09:43 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by DannyRS [/i]
[B]Take off 35 lbs by going to a carbon or aluminum hood.
Take off 35 lbs by going to the light weight front bumper beam.
Take off 30 lbs by going to the light weight rear bumper beam.
Take off 5lbs by removing the insanely huge piece of steel in your glove compartment.
Now lose 90lbs :D
To get even more weight out, you will have to look at removing tar from the interior, or maybe getting an aluminum deck lid...
-Danny [/B][/QUOTE]
Wont F***ing with the bumpers lead to death? I got rear ended in my WRX..I'm glad it had such heavy bumper beams.
You can get CF deck lids, too. And you can lose weight, fatty.
[B]Take off 35 lbs by going to a carbon or aluminum hood.
Take off 35 lbs by going to the light weight front bumper beam.
Take off 30 lbs by going to the light weight rear bumper beam.
Take off 5lbs by removing the insanely huge piece of steel in your glove compartment.
Now lose 90lbs :D
To get even more weight out, you will have to look at removing tar from the interior, or maybe getting an aluminum deck lid...
-Danny [/B][/QUOTE]
Wont F***ing with the bumpers lead to death? I got rear ended in my WRX..I'm glad it had such heavy bumper beams.
You can get CF deck lids, too. And you can lose weight, fatty.
| aspera | 11-02-2003 12:30 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by billzebub [/i]
[B]Wont F***ing with the bumpers lead to death? I got rear ended in my WRX..I'm glad it had such heavy bumper beams.
You can get CF deck lids, too. And you can lose weight, fatty. [/B][/QUOTE]
Without a rear bumper beam the WRX would still have to absorb the same amount of energy. If the collision was less than 5 mph a bumper would make it much cheaper. If the collision was like 20 or 30 mph, then the car is going to get fubarred anyway.
IMO a rear collision without a bumper beam would be better than a front collision without one. You've got the whole rear end of the car (several feet) to absorb the impact. I feel that distance is often overlooked.
The media tends to focus on vehicle mass. Common sense says that a heavy SUV is safer than a compact car. I don't think that has to be true. Imagine a small car with a ten foot deep styrofoam front bumper. It would be much safer than a large SUV...until the SUV hits the little car and steals its safety by having the styrofoam absorb ITS mass..:mad:
What was I talking about??:confused: :lol:
[B]Wont F***ing with the bumpers lead to death? I got rear ended in my WRX..I'm glad it had such heavy bumper beams.
You can get CF deck lids, too. And you can lose weight, fatty. [/B][/QUOTE]
Without a rear bumper beam the WRX would still have to absorb the same amount of energy. If the collision was less than 5 mph a bumper would make it much cheaper. If the collision was like 20 or 30 mph, then the car is going to get fubarred anyway.
IMO a rear collision without a bumper beam would be better than a front collision without one. You've got the whole rear end of the car (several feet) to absorb the impact. I feel that distance is often overlooked.
The media tends to focus on vehicle mass. Common sense says that a heavy SUV is safer than a compact car. I don't think that has to be true. Imagine a small car with a ten foot deep styrofoam front bumper. It would be much safer than a large SUV...until the SUV hits the little car and steals its safety by having the styrofoam absorb ITS mass..:mad:
What was I talking about??:confused: :lol:
| billzebub | 11-02-2003 12:47 AM |
when I got rear-ended it was at 45+ MPH and there was minimal damage beyond the rear bumper.
| aspera | 11-02-2003 01:24 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by billzebub [/i]
[B]when I got rear-ended it was at 45+ MPH and there was minimal damage beyond the rear bumper. [/B][/QUOTE]
Are you saying that you were travelling about 45 mph, or that there was a 45 mph difference in speed between you and the car that hit you? Or both?:huh: I suppose that you could have been tooling around about 45 and some jerk hits you at a solid 90. I can't figure in the minimal damage part though. The WRX just isn't that tough.
I've hit a semi truck at 55mph before (exact difference in speed) and suffered minimal damage to my vehicle....because I was in a locomotive engine.:eek: They are built like tanks. In some cases they're tougher than tanks. Tanks use lots of aluminum, trains use steel...lots of it.
What did you get rear ended by? Was it a CRX or something?
struggling to get back on topic...:lol:
Weight reduction is a safety issue. Lightweight Subarus allow us to avoid a collision and lessen the damage to other vehicles in the event of a collision. It does, however, make the car stop quicker when it hits something (not good). The flipside is that it also allows the car to stop quicker BEFORE it hits something. That way if you rear-end somebody it will cause minimal damage.;)
[B]when I got rear-ended it was at 45+ MPH and there was minimal damage beyond the rear bumper. [/B][/QUOTE]
Are you saying that you were travelling about 45 mph, or that there was a 45 mph difference in speed between you and the car that hit you? Or both?:huh: I suppose that you could have been tooling around about 45 and some jerk hits you at a solid 90. I can't figure in the minimal damage part though. The WRX just isn't that tough.
I've hit a semi truck at 55mph before (exact difference in speed) and suffered minimal damage to my vehicle....because I was in a locomotive engine.:eek: They are built like tanks. In some cases they're tougher than tanks. Tanks use lots of aluminum, trains use steel...lots of it.
What did you get rear ended by? Was it a CRX or something?
struggling to get back on topic...:lol:
Weight reduction is a safety issue. Lightweight Subarus allow us to avoid a collision and lessen the damage to other vehicles in the event of a collision. It does, however, make the car stop quicker when it hits something (not good). The flipside is that it also allows the car to stop quicker BEFORE it hits something. That way if you rear-end somebody it will cause minimal damage.;)
| ellisnc | 11-27-2003 08:29 AM |
Aspera, any more updates?
I'm debating with myself whether I want to remove the whole SRS system. Both front bags are already gone as are the side bags due to seat replacement.
There are some pretty hefty brackets that hold the front crash sensors around the front of the car. Also the side impact sensors are secured with some hefty brackets. I should have another 6 point harness coming for the passenger side in my car so I may remove the stock belts as well which are a lot of weight. I think it looks stupid driving the car on the street with harnesses on except the only time I do that is to and from the track anyway:rolleyes:
I added a roll bar so that put my weight back up to around 2900 most likely. I also added a Stoptech kit so that took me down a few pounds more from what I've read.
I found some other things when installing the roll bar... inside the headliner on the sides looks like some plastic stuff that aids in a head impact with the B pillar and sides of the roof. Pull it out.
I'm debating with myself whether I want to remove the whole SRS system. Both front bags are already gone as are the side bags due to seat replacement.
There are some pretty hefty brackets that hold the front crash sensors around the front of the car. Also the side impact sensors are secured with some hefty brackets. I should have another 6 point harness coming for the passenger side in my car so I may remove the stock belts as well which are a lot of weight. I think it looks stupid driving the car on the street with harnesses on except the only time I do that is to and from the track anyway:rolleyes:
I added a roll bar so that put my weight back up to around 2900 most likely. I also added a Stoptech kit so that took me down a few pounds more from what I've read.
I found some other things when installing the roll bar... inside the headliner on the sides looks like some plastic stuff that aids in a head impact with the B pillar and sides of the roof. Pull it out.
| aspera | 11-27-2003 07:41 PM |
Well, STi gauge cluster mod doesn't save much weight. I suppose my wallet is lighter.:D EDIT: I remember twisting and pulling out the plastic tube fot the driver's window defrost. It just pissed me off.:lol:
I just insalled a Cobra Suzuka driver's seat last night. The seat is light. The bracketry is heavy. Overall it saved some poundage. I want to keep the heavy sliders, but the seat sits up a little high. I still need to get a resistor for the airbag plug, too.
Why keep the SRS junk if you have no airbags to deploy? Just make sure you have the proper securty Torx bits to remove the SRS system. Maybe you could find a wrecked Impreza and investigate how everything is wired and mounted.
I think you are far enough along so that you can remove the stock seat belts. Mine is too much of a daily driver.:(
Thanks for the headliner tip...but I'll have to see it before I decide to yank it out. I like to keep my head round.:lol:
I just insalled a Cobra Suzuka driver's seat last night. The seat is light. The bracketry is heavy. Overall it saved some poundage. I want to keep the heavy sliders, but the seat sits up a little high. I still need to get a resistor for the airbag plug, too.
Why keep the SRS junk if you have no airbags to deploy? Just make sure you have the proper securty Torx bits to remove the SRS system. Maybe you could find a wrecked Impreza and investigate how everything is wired and mounted.
I think you are far enough along so that you can remove the stock seat belts. Mine is too much of a daily driver.:(
Thanks for the headliner tip...but I'll have to see it before I decide to yank it out. I like to keep my head round.:lol:
| Uber Wagon | 12-04-2003 01:00 AM |
Actual A/C Weight
�
�
I always thought this thread was cool and now I have something to contribute! I just pulled the A/C system out of my STi and everthing (compressor, condensor, hoses, hardware) weighs in at 22 lbs.
Thought some of you might want to know.
-Nick
Thought some of you might want to know.
-Nick
| 02R6 | 12-04-2003 02:50 AM |
I can't believe I just read all eight pages of this thread. It took just short of forever, but it was pretty informative. Now I want to go rip apart my car.
Now that I think about it, Christmas break is coming... Say, Nate, sounds like you've got just a little experience with this, want to help me install some rotors, pads, and shed a little weight? I live close by and I can pay in pizza and beer (since you're going to drain me on brake components) and during our breaks I could teach you how to ride a motorcycle :D
Now that I think about it, Christmas break is coming... Say, Nate, sounds like you've got just a little experience with this, want to help me install some rotors, pads, and shed a little weight? I live close by and I can pay in pizza and beer (since you're going to drain me on brake components) and during our breaks I could teach you how to ride a motorcycle :D
| NimrodBoz | 12-04-2003 03:32 AM |
want to know what an RS can take? heres my story:
T-boned by the pickup extended cab doing 65 without touching brakes before hitting me. the story is in the 93-01 impreza forum somewhere from last yeah i think if youre interested. anyway heres pics: (i recieved minimal damage, 6 stitches to my knee form the center console exploding and glass cuts on my face. i was 16, that was my first car)
[IMG]http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/16219/p/237833_4344191175623850981_vl.jpg[/IMG]
i have a 01 rs now, wouldnt take any car over a subaru. if i was in a honda i would have been killed.
T-boned by the pickup extended cab doing 65 without touching brakes before hitting me. the story is in the 93-01 impreza forum somewhere from last yeah i think if youre interested. anyway heres pics: (i recieved minimal damage, 6 stitches to my knee form the center console exploding and glass cuts on my face. i was 16, that was my first car)
[IMG]http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/16219/p/237833_4344191175623850981_vl.jpg[/IMG]
i have a 01 rs now, wouldnt take any car over a subaru. if i was in a honda i would have been killed.
| 128d | 12-04-2003 03:59 PM |
WOW :eek:
That is crazy. I am glad to see these cars can take a hit, and that you are in good health.
That is crazy. I am glad to see these cars can take a hit, and that you are in good health.
| ellisnc | 12-04-2003 10:35 PM |
Re: Actual A/C Weight
�
�
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Uber Wagon [/i]
[B]I always thought this thread was cool and now I have something to contribute! I just pulled the A/C system out of my STi and everthing (compressor, condensor, hoses, hardware) weighs in at 22 lbs.
Thought some of you might want to know.
-Nick [/B][/QUOTE]
uh oh, someone's dropping the weight on their STi...
[B]I always thought this thread was cool and now I have something to contribute! I just pulled the A/C system out of my STi and everthing (compressor, condensor, hoses, hardware) weighs in at 22 lbs.
Thought some of you might want to know.
-Nick [/B][/QUOTE]
uh oh, someone's dropping the weight on their STi...
| ellisnc | 12-04-2003 10:42 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by 02R6 [/i]
[B]I can't believe I just read all eight pages of this thread. It took just short of forever, but it was pretty informative. Now I want to go rip apart my car.
Now that I think about it, Christmas break is coming... Say, Nate, sounds like you've got just a little experience with this, want to help me install some rotors, pads, and shed a little weight? I live close by and I can pay in pizza and beer (since you're going to drain me on brake components) and during our breaks I could teach you how to ride a motorcycle :D [/B][/QUOTE]
I don't think any rotors or pads short of Stoptech BBK will save you any weight... but we can have a brake and suspension install party in the spring sometime...
Nate's getting coilover's this year (Nate H that is) and I told him we could have a corner balancing party before the track day in April.
[B]I can't believe I just read all eight pages of this thread. It took just short of forever, but it was pretty informative. Now I want to go rip apart my car.
Now that I think about it, Christmas break is coming... Say, Nate, sounds like you've got just a little experience with this, want to help me install some rotors, pads, and shed a little weight? I live close by and I can pay in pizza and beer (since you're going to drain me on brake components) and during our breaks I could teach you how to ride a motorcycle :D [/B][/QUOTE]
I don't think any rotors or pads short of Stoptech BBK will save you any weight... but we can have a brake and suspension install party in the spring sometime...
Nate's getting coilover's this year (Nate H that is) and I told him we could have a corner balancing party before the track day in April.
| 02R6 | 12-04-2003 11:35 PM |
I meant we could install the pads and rotors. And then, since you have so much experience with this, find stuff to strip out of my car to bring the weight down.
A brake, suspension, and corner balance install party sounds good to me. Let me know when and where.
A brake, suspension, and corner balance install party sounds good to me. Let me know when and where.
| ellisnc | 12-05-2003 07:20 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by 02R6 [/i]
[B]I meant we could install the pads and rotors. And then, since you have so much experience with this, find stuff to strip out of my car to bring the weight down.
A brake, suspension, and corner balance install party sounds good to me. Let me know when and where. [/B][/QUOTE]
Oh I see... you can do it dude ;) Honestly changing parts out for lighter ones will get you more weight loss than just taking stuff out of the car if you want it to look somewhat civilized still.
I can't corner weight your car because you don't have coilovers.
It'll probably be mid March sometime is my guess. Some day when it's not raining or snowing... :rolleyes:
[B]I meant we could install the pads and rotors. And then, since you have so much experience with this, find stuff to strip out of my car to bring the weight down.
A brake, suspension, and corner balance install party sounds good to me. Let me know when and where. [/B][/QUOTE]
Oh I see... you can do it dude ;) Honestly changing parts out for lighter ones will get you more weight loss than just taking stuff out of the car if you want it to look somewhat civilized still.
I can't corner weight your car because you don't have coilovers.
It'll probably be mid March sometime is my guess. Some day when it's not raining or snowing... :rolleyes:
| Uber Wagon | 12-05-2003 10:45 AM |
Re: Re: Actual A/C Weight
�
�
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by ellisnc [/i]
[B]uh oh, someone's dropping the weight on their STi... [/B][/QUOTE]
;) Yup, depending on the final SM rules for '04 the rear seats will be next!
[B]uh oh, someone's dropping the weight on their STi... [/B][/QUOTE]
;) Yup, depending on the final SM rules for '04 the rear seats will be next!
| aspera | 12-05-2003 10:53 PM |
Well, I got a new battery.:D I'm getting better at it every time.
Again, I started out with a DynaBatt, progressed to a Hawker Genesis, and now have an Odyssey.
THEY ARE ALL THE SAME BATTERY.
AND I AM STUPID.:lol:
Anyway, the DynaBatt was overpriced. The Hawker is supposed to be sized for a full-dresser Harley Davidson (16ah, 13.5 lbs). The Odyssey gets a pretty red case. I picked mine up at Battery Wholesale in Kansas City, KS for about $75. They also had the slightly smaller 12ah battery. It was about 10lbs, I think.
Basically, they are motorcycle batteries for large motorcycles. They work fine on the WRX because it only has a low-compression 2.0L engine that should run on 5W-XX synthetic oil in colder weather. (see oil threads...Mobil1!:D)
The only caveat is that you can't leave the car parked for long periods of time AND have a small drain on the battery. Even a flashing LED light can zap the battery over a day or two. The good news is that you can recharge the batteries. I think both of my old batteries might still be good, but I can't afford to trust them.
Again, I started out with a DynaBatt, progressed to a Hawker Genesis, and now have an Odyssey.
THEY ARE ALL THE SAME BATTERY.
AND I AM STUPID.:lol:
Anyway, the DynaBatt was overpriced. The Hawker is supposed to be sized for a full-dresser Harley Davidson (16ah, 13.5 lbs). The Odyssey gets a pretty red case. I picked mine up at Battery Wholesale in Kansas City, KS for about $75. They also had the slightly smaller 12ah battery. It was about 10lbs, I think.
Basically, they are motorcycle batteries for large motorcycles. They work fine on the WRX because it only has a low-compression 2.0L engine that should run on 5W-XX synthetic oil in colder weather. (see oil threads...Mobil1!:D)
The only caveat is that you can't leave the car parked for long periods of time AND have a small drain on the battery. Even a flashing LED light can zap the battery over a day or two. The good news is that you can recharge the batteries. I think both of my old batteries might still be good, but I can't afford to trust them.
| BIGSKYWRX | 12-28-2003 11:33 PM |
Interesting thread to say the least.
Up to this point I've aimed most of my weight savings in unsprung weight. Volk TE37's (16X7) w/ P Zero Nero 225/50/16 vs oem- savings 5.8lbs/corner (23lbs). Ray's aluminum lug nuts, amazingly 7oz/corner (almost 2 lbs!)
[IMG]http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=227554[/IMG]
DBA 5010 two piece rotors 1lb/rotor (2lbs) -negated by my rear H6 rotor upgrade:( . I'll be upgrading to AP brakes up front, 5lbs/side (10lbs). And contrary to a earlier post, the aluminum control arms are a lb lighter than the oe steel stamped ones (2lbs). That's 37lbs in unsprung weight.
I do the usual spare/jack/tools for ~ 35 lbs. Floor mats ~ 4 lbs. Fog lamps ~ 4 lbs-partially negated by brake duct setup. Catless uppipe and turboback ~ 30 lbs.
1/4 tank of fuel ~ 60lbs. That's another 100lbs.
I'm planning on a Odyessy battery (probably under passenger seat) ~ 16lbs.
The subframe thing has me baffled, the STI RA doesn't come w/ it and no one seems to complain about handling. Maybe the Do Luck piece is the ticket, that would save ~ 24 lbs (hard to believe that piece only weighs 6lbs!).
I'm contemplating a lightweight front beam, possibly a rear too. I'm guessing ~ 25 lbs/beam???
Does anyone now if the GC8 beams fit the GD's?
Also any idea on weight of the oem spoiler?
Thanks
Big Sky
Up to this point I've aimed most of my weight savings in unsprung weight. Volk TE37's (16X7) w/ P Zero Nero 225/50/16 vs oem- savings 5.8lbs/corner (23lbs). Ray's aluminum lug nuts, amazingly 7oz/corner (almost 2 lbs!)
[IMG]http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=227554[/IMG]
DBA 5010 two piece rotors 1lb/rotor (2lbs) -negated by my rear H6 rotor upgrade:( . I'll be upgrading to AP brakes up front, 5lbs/side (10lbs). And contrary to a earlier post, the aluminum control arms are a lb lighter than the oe steel stamped ones (2lbs). That's 37lbs in unsprung weight.
I do the usual spare/jack/tools for ~ 35 lbs. Floor mats ~ 4 lbs. Fog lamps ~ 4 lbs-partially negated by brake duct setup. Catless uppipe and turboback ~ 30 lbs.
1/4 tank of fuel ~ 60lbs. That's another 100lbs.
I'm planning on a Odyessy battery (probably under passenger seat) ~ 16lbs.
The subframe thing has me baffled, the STI RA doesn't come w/ it and no one seems to complain about handling. Maybe the Do Luck piece is the ticket, that would save ~ 24 lbs (hard to believe that piece only weighs 6lbs!).
I'm contemplating a lightweight front beam, possibly a rear too. I'm guessing ~ 25 lbs/beam???
Does anyone now if the GC8 beams fit the GD's?
Also any idea on weight of the oem spoiler?
Thanks
Big Sky
| ellisnc | 12-29-2003 12:39 PM |
BIGSKY,
Those rotors and lugs are rice dude :lol:
j/k - I have gold Prova lugs that I bought at the Utsunomiya Super Autobacs in Japan so I don't have room to talk :) They're made by the same company that makes the Rays lugs except they have a little P on the end and have the Eifel Nordischlief (sp) ring engraved on them :D
That's interesting, I too wonder if the GC8 beam would fit the rear. My plan was this spring to just swiss cheese my rear beam :) I'm also thinking about buying just a raw black fascia for the rear and swiss cheesing that too because the rear acts like a parachute at high speed lifting the rear of the car up. It'll look like crap, but then again that's the point :lol: or I may just do it to my blue one. I'd like to think up some way to measure the ambient pressure inside the rear bumper cover at say 80-100 mph and see if there's a high pressure area back there. Anyway, back to weight savings :)
I'd leave the rear spoiler on as it's been proven to reduce lift at speed.
Those rotors and lugs are rice dude :lol:
j/k - I have gold Prova lugs that I bought at the Utsunomiya Super Autobacs in Japan so I don't have room to talk :) They're made by the same company that makes the Rays lugs except they have a little P on the end and have the Eifel Nordischlief (sp) ring engraved on them :D
That's interesting, I too wonder if the GC8 beam would fit the rear. My plan was this spring to just swiss cheese my rear beam :) I'm also thinking about buying just a raw black fascia for the rear and swiss cheesing that too because the rear acts like a parachute at high speed lifting the rear of the car up. It'll look like crap, but then again that's the point :lol: or I may just do it to my blue one. I'd like to think up some way to measure the ambient pressure inside the rear bumper cover at say 80-100 mph and see if there's a high pressure area back there. Anyway, back to weight savings :)
I'd leave the rear spoiler on as it's been proven to reduce lift at speed.
| bingbing | 12-29-2003 03:49 PM |
looks like this is a $10K PROJECT. Ha Ha!
removing carpet and tar from the interior-----about 90LB (02WRX)
removing carpet and tar from the interior-----about 90LB (02WRX)
| PoopRSkupe | 12-29-2003 04:16 PM |
i added sound deadening and a huge box in my trunk that weighs about 30 lbs but im skinny so its ok:D sorry that was dumb
| Uber Wagon | 12-29-2003 08:21 PM |
More actual weights...
�
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Here are some more actual weights from things I have removed from my STi:
Intake scoop and silencer: 3 lbs.
Rear seat, and all seatbelts, brackets, etc. (Basically anything that is steel that you can unbolt, but I did NOT removed the large gray steel bar as it looks to aid in chassis stifness.) : 33 lbs.
The rear seat removal has tripled the road noise in the cabin, I am not sure the 30 lbs. is worth the huge decrease in driveability.
I'm gonna try some limited sound dampening on the exposed sheet metal +5 lbs. :( and if it isn't any better I might put everything back.
-Nick
Intake scoop and silencer: 3 lbs.
Rear seat, and all seatbelts, brackets, etc. (Basically anything that is steel that you can unbolt, but I did NOT removed the large gray steel bar as it looks to aid in chassis stifness.) : 33 lbs.
The rear seat removal has tripled the road noise in the cabin, I am not sure the 30 lbs. is worth the huge decrease in driveability.
I'm gonna try some limited sound dampening on the exposed sheet metal +5 lbs. :( and if it isn't any better I might put everything back.
-Nick
| ellisnc | 12-29-2003 09:19 PM |
You can just put the seat back for normal driving... I did that for a while. Not that I drove it around too much but it does help even if you've got everything else gutted.
I left that brace in under the seat too, handling felt kind of funny with it removed. I may take it out now that I have a roll bar back there and see how it is. It is heavy though you're right... it's a shame to leave it on the car :)
I left that brace in under the seat too, handling felt kind of funny with it removed. I may take it out now that I have a roll bar back there and see how it is. It is heavy though you're right... it's a shame to leave it on the car :)
| RexRexRex | 12-30-2003 01:40 AM |
Does anybody know how to take out the ac? Any help will be great!!
| Unsung Boxer | 12-30-2003 02:44 AM |
I recommend the ghetto weight reduction. Park your car in the ghettos over night...
Gurantee you will have alot of weight reduced by the morning.
Wheels, stereo, seats, speakers, etc... it really adds up!
-Jake
Gurantee you will have alot of weight reduced by the morning.
Wheels, stereo, seats, speakers, etc... it really adds up!
-Jake
| subiekid | 12-30-2003 04:02 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by RexRexRex [/i]
[B]Does anybody know how to take out the ac? Any help will be great!! [/B][/QUOTE]
take it to a shop and have the freeon taken out. drive home and unbolt everything.
[B]Does anybody know how to take out the ac? Any help will be great!! [/B][/QUOTE]
take it to a shop and have the freeon taken out. drive home and unbolt everything.
| GoodFinder | 12-30-2003 12:22 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by ellisnc [/i]
[B]I'm debating with myself whether I want to remove the whole SRS system. Both front bags are already gone as are the side bags due to seat replacement. There are some pretty hefty brackets that hold the front crash sensors around the front of the car. Also the side impact sensors are secured with some hefty brackets. [/B][/QUOTE]
Keep us posted on what you find in this area. I "lost" my side airbags a long time ago (seat upgrade) and recently "lost" my driver airbag (350mm Momo steering wheel that is also removable). Also, what was involved with removing the passenger airbag? Were there any reasons besides weight savings involved?
GoodFinder :)
[B]I'm debating with myself whether I want to remove the whole SRS system. Both front bags are already gone as are the side bags due to seat replacement. There are some pretty hefty brackets that hold the front crash sensors around the front of the car. Also the side impact sensors are secured with some hefty brackets. [/B][/QUOTE]
Keep us posted on what you find in this area. I "lost" my side airbags a long time ago (seat upgrade) and recently "lost" my driver airbag (350mm Momo steering wheel that is also removable). Also, what was involved with removing the passenger airbag? Were there any reasons besides weight savings involved?
GoodFinder :)
| ellisnc | 12-30-2003 02:45 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by GoodFinder [/i]
[B]Keep us posted on what you find in this area. I "lost" my side airbags a long time ago (seat upgrade) and recently "lost" my driver airbag (350mm Momo steering wheel that is also removable). Also, what was involved with removing the passenger airbag? Were there any reasons besides weight savings involved?
GoodFinder :) [/B][/QUOTE]
Removing the passenger bag is as easy as unbolting the module from the bottom (under glove box) and popping it out the top after disconnecting the coupler. I only did it for weight savings.
The tricky part is getting the plastic cover off the top of the module, I think I used 2 or 3 flat blade screwdrivers (minus drivers for the Japanese in the audience) but once you get it off it pops right back into the empty hole in the instrument panel. Pretty sweet.
I'm going to be doing some weight reduction in the spring and installing eyebolts on the floor under the front seats for my 6-point harness attachments. To do this the seats are going to have to come out at which point I'll probably remove the front belts as well as all the remaining SRS equipment.
I think it's an FMVSS that the idiot light in the meter has to be active meaning not just pulled to ground by an open collector in some unit - it's pulled up internally in the meter. This way if you disconnect the SRS ECU the light comes on:rolleyes: I think it also might be a rule that all the SRS harnesses do not run inside other harnesses, if so I might see how difficult it would be to rip em out and run the circuit for the light to IG - probably as easy as jumping that circuit to IG on the back of the meter.
So here's my new list for removal:
SRS front and side crash sensors
SRS ECU
rear seat top hook
center console metal support(dremel tool needed)
front U-brace
injector covers
material under tops of B-pillar plastic covers
The S2000 has aluminum radiator supports on top. I may see if I can get those to fit :)
And I have to dig through the doors again to see what else I can remove. I'm thinking the power locks can go.
I'd like to get a header (DC has one out now that is apparently over 20 pounds lighter than the stock manifolds)
I have the JDM front bumper beam, but I seem to remember more stuff that could be cut off of it. Also the rear beam is now a prime candidate for weight loss as is the under seat brace in the rear.
I posted a question in the hybrid forum about using a GC8 rear beam on a GD chassis and one guy thought no and ACTUALLY gave a reason other than just saying he thought it wouldn't. :eek:
[B]Keep us posted on what you find in this area. I "lost" my side airbags a long time ago (seat upgrade) and recently "lost" my driver airbag (350mm Momo steering wheel that is also removable). Also, what was involved with removing the passenger airbag? Were there any reasons besides weight savings involved?
GoodFinder :) [/B][/QUOTE]
Removing the passenger bag is as easy as unbolting the module from the bottom (under glove box) and popping it out the top after disconnecting the coupler. I only did it for weight savings.
The tricky part is getting the plastic cover off the top of the module, I think I used 2 or 3 flat blade screwdrivers (minus drivers for the Japanese in the audience) but once you get it off it pops right back into the empty hole in the instrument panel. Pretty sweet.
I'm going to be doing some weight reduction in the spring and installing eyebolts on the floor under the front seats for my 6-point harness attachments. To do this the seats are going to have to come out at which point I'll probably remove the front belts as well as all the remaining SRS equipment.
I think it's an FMVSS that the idiot light in the meter has to be active meaning not just pulled to ground by an open collector in some unit - it's pulled up internally in the meter. This way if you disconnect the SRS ECU the light comes on:rolleyes: I think it also might be a rule that all the SRS harnesses do not run inside other harnesses, if so I might see how difficult it would be to rip em out and run the circuit for the light to IG - probably as easy as jumping that circuit to IG on the back of the meter.
So here's my new list for removal:
SRS front and side crash sensors
SRS ECU
rear seat top hook
center console metal support(dremel tool needed)
front U-brace
injector covers
material under tops of B-pillar plastic covers
The S2000 has aluminum radiator supports on top. I may see if I can get those to fit :)
And I have to dig through the doors again to see what else I can remove. I'm thinking the power locks can go.
I'd like to get a header (DC has one out now that is apparently over 20 pounds lighter than the stock manifolds)
I have the JDM front bumper beam, but I seem to remember more stuff that could be cut off of it. Also the rear beam is now a prime candidate for weight loss as is the under seat brace in the rear.
I posted a question in the hybrid forum about using a GC8 rear beam on a GD chassis and one guy thought no and ACTUALLY gave a reason other than just saying he thought it wouldn't. :eek:
| aspera | 12-31-2003 06:41 PM |
Do you still have your original bumper beam? Maybe you could cut the fog lamp parts off of it and then Swiss cheese the main beam. As you know, the JDM bumper beam is the same as the USDM beam on the sides, but just has a tube in the center. Why not put the beam in the center (where is does the most good) and trim the ends?
Offroad guys do this for clearance. In a WRX application, you might be able to put the area where the bumper ends normally sit to use. Heck, you could put a remote oil filter there so you could just reach through the foglight hole to spin it off!:lol:
An oil cooler could go on the other side.
Offroad guys do this for clearance. In a WRX application, you might be able to put the area where the bumper ends normally sit to use. Heck, you could put a remote oil filter there so you could just reach through the foglight hole to spin it off!:lol:
An oil cooler could go on the other side.
| ellisnc | 01-02-2004 04:16 PM |
I was out dinking around inside the rear doors this afternoon.
I pulled that sheet off the outside panel. It's worthless and easy to do.
I now know how to remove the power locks from the rear doors. It's pretty straight forward. While I was in there it dawned on me that I never open the doors from the inside in the rear as there is a roll bar back there and no seats or seatbelts. So... I also took off the inner door-pull actuator rod. Not much weight but isn't quite as light as I expected. I'm pretty sure it's some kind of steel.
To remove the power lock actuators you have to remove the door latch (part that hits the striker) which is three screws and undo the rod from the outside door-pull which is pretty simple. Then undo the two rods from the clips on the inner door skin coming from the latch so you can remove it from the door. There is one other bolt on the inner door skin that needs to be removed, that is the power door lock actuator. Also undo the connector that goes to that actuator. After you remove that assembly you can see there are two small screws that hold the actuator to the latch, just remove those two screws and the actuator just falls off. Then put the whole thing back together minus the actuator. This is a good time to remove the long rod that goes to the inner door-pull as well if you want.
I only did one door, but I'll do the other as I have time and warm weather. I'll also do the front doors except for removing the door-pull rod if it's possible. I think it should be. No need keyless entry!
I just remembered... the SRS light is at the bottom display on the meter and I'm going to put a display for my lap timer in front of that so I don't care if that light stays on all the time. :)
I pulled that sheet off the outside panel. It's worthless and easy to do.
I now know how to remove the power locks from the rear doors. It's pretty straight forward. While I was in there it dawned on me that I never open the doors from the inside in the rear as there is a roll bar back there and no seats or seatbelts. So... I also took off the inner door-pull actuator rod. Not much weight but isn't quite as light as I expected. I'm pretty sure it's some kind of steel.
To remove the power lock actuators you have to remove the door latch (part that hits the striker) which is three screws and undo the rod from the outside door-pull which is pretty simple. Then undo the two rods from the clips on the inner door skin coming from the latch so you can remove it from the door. There is one other bolt on the inner door skin that needs to be removed, that is the power door lock actuator. Also undo the connector that goes to that actuator. After you remove that assembly you can see there are two small screws that hold the actuator to the latch, just remove those two screws and the actuator just falls off. Then put the whole thing back together minus the actuator. This is a good time to remove the long rod that goes to the inner door-pull as well if you want.
I only did one door, but I'll do the other as I have time and warm weather. I'll also do the front doors except for removing the door-pull rod if it's possible. I think it should be. No need keyless entry!
I just remembered... the SRS light is at the bottom display on the meter and I'm going to put a display for my lap timer in front of that so I don't care if that light stays on all the time. :)
| ellisnc | 01-02-2004 04:28 PM |
1 Attachment(s)
The JDM and US market bumper beams are different in other parts than just the middle. If you look at the US beam the fog light holes are encircled with a metal frame.
| ellisnc | 01-02-2004 04:30 PM |
1 Attachment(s)
Original beam picture
| BongMan | 01-03-2004 07:38 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by aspera [/i]
[B]
What I'd like to see is some way to relocate the radiator to the trunk. That would leave room for a turbo in front of the engine.:) [/B][/QUOTE]
If you've seen the 2wd vs 4wd Touge battle with Tsuchiya and orito. The 4wd Monster Advan Gymkahama (sp?) has the turbo located where the stock AC compressor is. The intake pipe is over the alternator and the exhaust out the turbo is down the JDM passengerside firewall area.
They also give you a good idea for battery location, they put the battery in the trunk but in a lower custom tray. That thing is a beauty to look at. I think this video is on racingflix.com
it will be a good investment in dl time.
[B]
What I'd like to see is some way to relocate the radiator to the trunk. That would leave room for a turbo in front of the engine.:) [/B][/QUOTE]
If you've seen the 2wd vs 4wd Touge battle with Tsuchiya and orito. The 4wd Monster Advan Gymkahama (sp?) has the turbo located where the stock AC compressor is. The intake pipe is over the alternator and the exhaust out the turbo is down the JDM passengerside firewall area.
They also give you a good idea for battery location, they put the battery in the trunk but in a lower custom tray. That thing is a beauty to look at. I think this video is on racingflix.com
it will be a good investment in dl time.
| Oo DaRk StAr oO | 01-03-2004 03:05 PM |
I was running Consistant 8.7's.
Then I lost some weight.
CF Trunk, CF Hood, Gutted Trunk, No Passenger Seat, No Rear Seats, Removed AC.
Ran an 8.53 with just an up/down/exhaust/leaking uppipe/and boost controller.
Then I lost some weight.
CF Trunk, CF Hood, Gutted Trunk, No Passenger Seat, No Rear Seats, Removed AC.
Ran an 8.53 with just an up/down/exhaust/leaking uppipe/and boost controller.
| aspera | 01-03-2004 06:07 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by ellisnc [/i]
[B]The JDM and US market bumper beams are different in other parts than just the middle. If you look at the US beam the fog light holes are encircled with a metal frame. [/B][/QUOTE]
Oops! I forgot about that. The JDM is black, too. All USDM bumper beams are WRB.:lol:
What I meant to point out is that the USDM bumper beam would make a better, but not lighter, candidate for trimming. Both beams would lose the fog light mounting metal.
[B]The JDM and US market bumper beams are different in other parts than just the middle. If you look at the US beam the fog light holes are encircled with a metal frame. [/B][/QUOTE]
Oops! I forgot about that. The JDM is black, too. All USDM bumper beams are WRB.:lol:
What I meant to point out is that the USDM bumper beam would make a better, but not lighter, candidate for trimming. Both beams would lose the fog light mounting metal.
| aspera | 01-03-2004 06:26 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by BongMan [/i]
[B]If you've seen the 2wd vs 4wd Touge battle with Tsuchiya and orito. The 4wd Monster Advan Gymkahama (sp?) has the turbo located where the stock AC compressor is. The intake pipe is over the alternator and the exhaust out the turbo is down the JDM passengerside firewall area.
They also give you a good idea for battery location, they put the battery in the trunk but in a lower custom tray. That thing is a beauty to look at. I think this video is on racingflix.com
it will be a good investment in dl time. [/B][/QUOTE]
I tried to register, but kept getting errors. Do you have a picture or more detailed description of how the turbo sits? I've seen pix of a few oddball Scoobs that had unique turbo mounting. I'd like to see more turbos mounted transversely in front of the engine. I think that would solve some problems.
The first problem that the WRX has is the limited size of the compressor inlet.
The second problem is heating the right rear cylinder (right next to turbo) more than the other cylinders.
The third problem is long, uneven exhaust headers.
The fourth problem is that the stock turbo sits right under the TMIC.
I'd like to see a sand rail type of header, but with 4 equal length primary pipes. That would place the turbo sideways in front of the engine. The only car that does it this way is the Rigoli RWD drag car, I think.
[B]If you've seen the 2wd vs 4wd Touge battle with Tsuchiya and orito. The 4wd Monster Advan Gymkahama (sp?) has the turbo located where the stock AC compressor is. The intake pipe is over the alternator and the exhaust out the turbo is down the JDM passengerside firewall area.
They also give you a good idea for battery location, they put the battery in the trunk but in a lower custom tray. That thing is a beauty to look at. I think this video is on racingflix.com
it will be a good investment in dl time. [/B][/QUOTE]
I tried to register, but kept getting errors. Do you have a picture or more detailed description of how the turbo sits? I've seen pix of a few oddball Scoobs that had unique turbo mounting. I'd like to see more turbos mounted transversely in front of the engine. I think that would solve some problems.
The first problem that the WRX has is the limited size of the compressor inlet.
The second problem is heating the right rear cylinder (right next to turbo) more than the other cylinders.
The third problem is long, uneven exhaust headers.
The fourth problem is that the stock turbo sits right under the TMIC.
I'd like to see a sand rail type of header, but with 4 equal length primary pipes. That would place the turbo sideways in front of the engine. The only car that does it this way is the Rigoli RWD drag car, I think.
| aspera | 01-03-2004 06:29 PM |
Is the battery box sunken into the trunk? I'm guessing that it would have to be on the right side (LHD pass side) just behind the rear subframe, but ahead of the spare wheel tub.
| ellisnc | 01-31-2004 07:03 AM |
haha back to life!
Aspera,
I don't know if you still use your back seat? I removed all my power door lock actuators. Also since there's never a need to open the rear doors from the inside I took out the rods that connect the inner door pull to the latch mechanism. Not too much weight but some anyway.
I was wondering... did you see the brackets that looked like they held the rear door handle in? I did the rear first and then started looking at the front and it didn't have them. I wonder if we can ditch those. I don't know if it's an anti theft mechanism or what.
Aspera,
I don't know if you still use your back seat? I removed all my power door lock actuators. Also since there's never a need to open the rear doors from the inside I took out the rods that connect the inner door pull to the latch mechanism. Not too much weight but some anyway.
I was wondering... did you see the brackets that looked like they held the rear door handle in? I did the rear first and then started looking at the front and it didn't have them. I wonder if we can ditch those. I don't know if it's an anti theft mechanism or what.
| neuspeed | 01-31-2004 08:28 AM |
Take the spare, rear seats, jacks, stereo, spoiler, and go on lighter wheels (Slips) Lighter battery. Bumper beams, Lexan windows should help. Take sound deadning off with dry ice...
| ellisnc | 01-31-2004 10:45 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by neuspeed [/i]
[B]Take the spare, rear seats, jacks, stereo, spoiler, and go on lighter wheels (Slips) Lighter battery. Bumper beams, Lexan windows should help. Take sound deadning off with dry ice... [/B][/QUOTE]
WTLY...
[B]Take the spare, rear seats, jacks, stereo, spoiler, and go on lighter wheels (Slips) Lighter battery. Bumper beams, Lexan windows should help. Take sound deadning off with dry ice... [/B][/QUOTE]
WTLY...
| RexRexRex | 01-31-2004 01:56 PM |
just removed the ac and the cruise control on my 03 wrx also i put in two sparco evo seats! My car is on the jenny craig diet!!!
Will have some # for all the parts!
Will have some # for all the parts!
| elixirvtec | 01-31-2004 02:10 PM |
for some of us we can take off some weight on our car by going on a diet. 8)
| aspera | 01-31-2004 08:53 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by RexRexRex [/i]
[B]just removed the ac and the cruise control on my 03 wrx also i put in two sparco evo seats! My car is on the jenny craig diet!!!
Will have some # for all the parts! [/B][/QUOTE]
I just got some Prodrive by Sparco WRC Pro seats the other day. That made me happy.:D
I can't mount them until I get some subframes. That made me sad.:(
I want to get Bride subframes. They look the lightest. The Cobra subframe that I have for the driver's seat now is too beefy. What subframes did you use for the Evos?
[B]just removed the ac and the cruise control on my 03 wrx also i put in two sparco evo seats! My car is on the jenny craig diet!!!
Will have some # for all the parts! [/B][/QUOTE]
I just got some Prodrive by Sparco WRC Pro seats the other day. That made me happy.:D
I can't mount them until I get some subframes. That made me sad.:(
I want to get Bride subframes. They look the lightest. The Cobra subframe that I have for the driver's seat now is too beefy. What subframes did you use for the Evos?
| aspera | 01-31-2004 09:00 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by ellisnc [/i]
[B]WTLY... [/B][/QUOTE]
Yeah, that's Weight Reduction 101 (Introduction to Weight Reduction).:) Freshmen usually take it.
[Texan voice]
This here thread is closer to Weight Reduction 555 (Theory of Weight Reduction, Applied) Ellis will be your professor this semester. Please try to stay awake during lectures.
[B]WTLY... [/B][/QUOTE]
Yeah, that's Weight Reduction 101 (Introduction to Weight Reduction).:) Freshmen usually take it.
[Texan voice]
This here thread is closer to Weight Reduction 555 (Theory of Weight Reduction, Applied) Ellis will be your professor this semester. Please try to stay awake during lectures.
| ellisnc | 02-01-2004 11:46 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by aspera [/i]
[B]I just got some Prodrive by Sparco WRC Pro seats the other day. That made me happy.:D
I can't mount them until I get some subframes. That made me sad.:(
I want to get Bride subframes. They look the lightest. The Cobra subframe that I have for the driver's seat now is too beefy. What subframes did you use for the Evos? [/B][/QUOTE]
Dude, love the seats... Those would be my choice if I didn't have the hookup with Recaro.
I didn't really care how much weight came off the frames of the seats since it's down so low in the chassis anyway. Of course more is better, but in this case you have to start watching where you're taking weight off the car. I'm concentrating my efforts at the front of the car more now.
I have the top radiator brackets off and I'm going to cut those down to the minimum this week. One of the horns came off, antenna and all the cable came out. If you look at the hood latch there is an extra piece of metal that prevents thieves from pulling the hood cable to open it. I think I'm going to cut that off the latch. Every little bit helps.
[B]I just got some Prodrive by Sparco WRC Pro seats the other day. That made me happy.:D
I can't mount them until I get some subframes. That made me sad.:(
I want to get Bride subframes. They look the lightest. The Cobra subframe that I have for the driver's seat now is too beefy. What subframes did you use for the Evos? [/B][/QUOTE]
Dude, love the seats... Those would be my choice if I didn't have the hookup with Recaro.
I didn't really care how much weight came off the frames of the seats since it's down so low in the chassis anyway. Of course more is better, but in this case you have to start watching where you're taking weight off the car. I'm concentrating my efforts at the front of the car more now.
I have the top radiator brackets off and I'm going to cut those down to the minimum this week. One of the horns came off, antenna and all the cable came out. If you look at the hood latch there is an extra piece of metal that prevents thieves from pulling the hood cable to open it. I think I'm going to cut that off the latch. Every little bit helps.
| aspera | 02-02-2004 02:59 AM |
Yeah, I remember messing with the hood latch thing. Why don't you go to hood pins?
I like the Sparcos, but I still have to get them installed the way that I want them. The Cobra seat is no slouch, though. Maybe I can do a comparo between them.:D
When I'm out of town, packages get delivered to the front office at my apartment complex. I had this HUGE box sitting in the delivery room for a few days. The girls at the front office were really curious to know what was in the gigantic box. (nosey b*tches :lol: ) They thought that I was strange when I said that I was redecorating the interior of my car with fine Italian furniture. They liked the seats, though.
I like the Sparcos, but I still have to get them installed the way that I want them. The Cobra seat is no slouch, though. Maybe I can do a comparo between them.:D
When I'm out of town, packages get delivered to the front office at my apartment complex. I had this HUGE box sitting in the delivery room for a few days. The girls at the front office were really curious to know what was in the gigantic box. (nosey b*tches :lol: ) They thought that I was strange when I said that I was redecorating the interior of my car with fine Italian furniture. They liked the seats, though.
| SooobieSnack | 02-02-2004 03:12 PM |
I work at a mod shop and have been working on Scoobies for a long time. Aspera is right here. You don't want to take these plates out under any circumstances. These plates are put in by the factory with the specific purpose of holding you and your car together in an accident. If you take these plates out you seriously compromise the structural integrity of your steering column and you passenger side dash. If you have done this mod I recommend reinstalling the plates before you lose a leg or the ability to walk.
| aspera | 02-02-2004 11:45 PM |
What am I right about? This is an old thread.
I think you're talking about the under-dash plates....which are sitting in a corner of my living room.:lol:
First off, the driver's side plate is different than the passenger's side. The pasenger's side plate is only attached as well as the glovebox door is attached. It also functions as an anti-theft device.
The driver's side plate is mostly a safety device, but also prevents thieves from gaining quick access to the wiring. Besides being a potential safety device, the plate might also harm the driver in an impact. If the plate gets pushed into the driver's legs they may become trapped. While that's not as likely as getting cuts without the plate installed, it still must be considered.
Obviously, the best solution would be to remove anything near the driver's legs. That can't be done. We still use pedals and steering wheels. Automakers still insist on cramming all of the wiring and brackets under the dash, too.
I'd like to see most of the under dash junk moved. Move the HVAC stuff under the seats or to the center console. Get the ECU off of the floorboard. Move the fusebox to a place where fuses can be seen and changed without gymnastics or flashlights!:lol: (I do support the use of flashlights for Olympic rhythmic gynmastics, however)
Besides safety, weight would be moved to the rear. That ties back in with this thread.
Just take a second to imagine how air ducts could be routed with the HVAC junk under/behind/beside the seats. You could have jets of air cooling or warming your seat. 'Crotch air' would be a given. Air could blow on the gearshift knob just like the ball returns at bowling alleys.
I think you're talking about the under-dash plates....which are sitting in a corner of my living room.:lol:
First off, the driver's side plate is different than the passenger's side. The pasenger's side plate is only attached as well as the glovebox door is attached. It also functions as an anti-theft device.
The driver's side plate is mostly a safety device, but also prevents thieves from gaining quick access to the wiring. Besides being a potential safety device, the plate might also harm the driver in an impact. If the plate gets pushed into the driver's legs they may become trapped. While that's not as likely as getting cuts without the plate installed, it still must be considered.
Obviously, the best solution would be to remove anything near the driver's legs. That can't be done. We still use pedals and steering wheels. Automakers still insist on cramming all of the wiring and brackets under the dash, too.
I'd like to see most of the under dash junk moved. Move the HVAC stuff under the seats or to the center console. Get the ECU off of the floorboard. Move the fusebox to a place where fuses can be seen and changed without gymnastics or flashlights!:lol: (I do support the use of flashlights for Olympic rhythmic gynmastics, however)
Besides safety, weight would be moved to the rear. That ties back in with this thread.
Just take a second to imagine how air ducts could be routed with the HVAC junk under/behind/beside the seats. You could have jets of air cooling or warming your seat. 'Crotch air' would be a given. Air could blow on the gearshift knob just like the ball returns at bowling alleys.
| ellisnc | 02-03-2004 07:09 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by SooobieSnack [/i]
[B]I work at a mod shop and have been working on Scoobies for a long time. Aspera is right here. You don't want to take these plates out under any circumstances. These plates are put in by the factory with the specific purpose of holding you and your car together in an accident. If you take these plates out you seriously compromise the structural integrity of your steering column and you passenger side dash. If you have done this mod I recommend reinstalling the plates before you lose a leg or the ability to walk. [/B][/QUOTE]
Too bad I have no more seat belts... just 6-point harnesses
Oh golly, I just realized I have no airbags either. I'm in serious trouble.
[B]I work at a mod shop and have been working on Scoobies for a long time. Aspera is right here. You don't want to take these plates out under any circumstances. These plates are put in by the factory with the specific purpose of holding you and your car together in an accident. If you take these plates out you seriously compromise the structural integrity of your steering column and you passenger side dash. If you have done this mod I recommend reinstalling the plates before you lose a leg or the ability to walk. [/B][/QUOTE]
Too bad I have no more seat belts... just 6-point harnesses
Oh golly, I just realized I have no airbags either. I'm in serious trouble.
| ellisnc | 02-05-2004 07:27 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by aspera [/i]
[B]What am I right about? This is an old thread.
I think you're talking about the under-dash plates....which are sitting in a corner of my living room.:lol:
First off, the driver's side plate is different than the passenger's side. The pasenger's side plate is only attached as well as the glovebox door is attached. It also functions as an anti-theft device.
The driver's side plate is mostly a safety device, but also prevents thieves from gaining quick access to the wiring. Besides being a potential safety device, the plate might also harm the driver in an impact. If the plate gets pushed into the driver's legs they may become trapped. While that's not as likely as getting cuts without the plate installed, it still must be considered.
Obviously, the best solution would be to remove anything near the driver's legs. That can't be done. We still use pedals and steering wheels. Automakers still insist on cramming all of the wiring and brackets under the dash, too.
I'd like to see most of the under dash junk moved. Move the HVAC stuff under the seats or to the center console. Get the ECU off of the floorboard. Move the fusebox to a place where fuses can be seen and changed without gymnastics or flashlights!:lol: (I do support the use of flashlights for Olympic rhythmic gynmastics, however)
Besides safety, weight would be moved to the rear. That ties back in with this thread.
Just take a second to imagine how air ducts could be routed with the HVAC junk under/behind/beside the seats. You could have jets of air cooling or warming your seat. 'Crotch air' would be a given. Air could blow on the gearshift knob just like the ball returns at bowling alleys. [/B][/QUOTE]
dude I just read your post... what the heck are you smoking?
[B]What am I right about? This is an old thread.
I think you're talking about the under-dash plates....which are sitting in a corner of my living room.:lol:
First off, the driver's side plate is different than the passenger's side. The pasenger's side plate is only attached as well as the glovebox door is attached. It also functions as an anti-theft device.
The driver's side plate is mostly a safety device, but also prevents thieves from gaining quick access to the wiring. Besides being a potential safety device, the plate might also harm the driver in an impact. If the plate gets pushed into the driver's legs they may become trapped. While that's not as likely as getting cuts without the plate installed, it still must be considered.
Obviously, the best solution would be to remove anything near the driver's legs. That can't be done. We still use pedals and steering wheels. Automakers still insist on cramming all of the wiring and brackets under the dash, too.
I'd like to see most of the under dash junk moved. Move the HVAC stuff under the seats or to the center console. Get the ECU off of the floorboard. Move the fusebox to a place where fuses can be seen and changed without gymnastics or flashlights!:lol: (I do support the use of flashlights for Olympic rhythmic gynmastics, however)
Besides safety, weight would be moved to the rear. That ties back in with this thread.
Just take a second to imagine how air ducts could be routed with the HVAC junk under/behind/beside the seats. You could have jets of air cooling or warming your seat. 'Crotch air' would be a given. Air could blow on the gearshift knob just like the ball returns at bowling alleys. [/B][/QUOTE]
dude I just read your post... what the heck are you smoking?
| 128d | 02-06-2004 10:31 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by aspera [/i]
[B]What am I right about? This is an old thread.
I think you're talking about the under-dash plates....which are sitting in a corner of my living room.:lol:
First off, the driver's side plate is different than the passenger's side. The pasenger's side plate is only attached as well as the glovebox door is attached. It also functions as an anti-theft device.
The driver's side plate is mostly a safety device, but also prevents thieves from gaining quick access to the wiring. Besides being a potential safety device, the plate might also harm the driver in an impact. If the plate gets pushed into the driver's legs they may become trapped. While that's not as likely as getting cuts without the plate installed, it still must be considered.
Obviously, the best solution would be to remove anything near the driver's legs. That can't be done. We still use pedals and steering wheels. Automakers still insist on cramming all of the wiring and brackets under the dash, too.
I'd like to see most of the under dash junk moved. Move the HVAC stuff under the seats or to the center console. Get the ECU off of the floorboard. Move the fusebox to a place where fuses can be seen and changed without gymnastics or flashlights!:lol: (I do support the use of flashlights for Olympic rhythmic gynmastics, however)
Besides safety, weight would be moved to the rear. That ties back in with this thread.
Just take a second to imagine how air ducts could be routed with the HVAC junk under/behind/beside the seats. You could have jets of air cooling or warming your seat. 'Crotch air' would be a given. Air could blow on the gearshift knob just like the ball returns at bowling alleys. [/B][/QUOTE]
... I think those plates are there for safety to actually keep your legs from getting mangled.
[B]What am I right about? This is an old thread.
I think you're talking about the under-dash plates....which are sitting in a corner of my living room.:lol:
First off, the driver's side plate is different than the passenger's side. The pasenger's side plate is only attached as well as the glovebox door is attached. It also functions as an anti-theft device.
The driver's side plate is mostly a safety device, but also prevents thieves from gaining quick access to the wiring. Besides being a potential safety device, the plate might also harm the driver in an impact. If the plate gets pushed into the driver's legs they may become trapped. While that's not as likely as getting cuts without the plate installed, it still must be considered.
Obviously, the best solution would be to remove anything near the driver's legs. That can't be done. We still use pedals and steering wheels. Automakers still insist on cramming all of the wiring and brackets under the dash, too.
I'd like to see most of the under dash junk moved. Move the HVAC stuff under the seats or to the center console. Get the ECU off of the floorboard. Move the fusebox to a place where fuses can be seen and changed without gymnastics or flashlights!:lol: (I do support the use of flashlights for Olympic rhythmic gynmastics, however)
Besides safety, weight would be moved to the rear. That ties back in with this thread.
Just take a second to imagine how air ducts could be routed with the HVAC junk under/behind/beside the seats. You could have jets of air cooling or warming your seat. 'Crotch air' would be a given. Air could blow on the gearshift knob just like the ball returns at bowling alleys. [/B][/QUOTE]
... I think those plates are there for safety to actually keep your legs from getting mangled.
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