| graff | 08-19-2004 03:00 PM |
calling help on my set up for auto-X
�
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Need help because i cannot figure out exactly what i am doing wrong
here is the set up:
-2002 wrx wagon
-agx **** strut for GC diall: 4 in front 8 in the back
-500# spring in front, 400# in the back
-ride height is about 13.75'' - 14.00'' from center of the wheel to fender lip all around
-rear 20mm sway bar
-solid aluminium end link all around
-yokohama A032R-S 205-50-15
-compomotive 25# 15''x7'' rally wheels
-camber plate
-whiteline motorsport ALK
-sti front and rear strut bar
-custom front lower tie bar (sti replica)
-alignement is 3/16 toe out in the front, 0 toe in the back, camber 2.5 front and 1.2 back
-brakes are stock execot for ebc pad
on the go side i have uppipe, downpipe with 3'' bpm twister and no cat
what i feel is i have no nose compared to my previous GC wagon with the same set-up exept for the engine :D
- i swap the rear sway bar for a 20-22-24:
22mm was better but still i cannot get the rear end to slide off by heavy lifting
24mm alot better but i would like to try 26mm
still go to get better in tigh place and slow corner but the front is pushing alot more that it was on higher speed corner or under heavy acceleration, i can spin the front tire all the way to top of second gear and wear the front tire very quickly.
i am planning on beefing the front bar to a 22mm
i finished 2nd ar canadian nationnal in esp with the but i feel i can do alot better if i can fix my problem, i took SWANO's stx car for a spin at somme fun run this week end and managed to beat is time by 2 sec and that time would have been good for a top three finish so my driving is not the major factor here
looking forward for your input guys!
here is the set up:
-2002 wrx wagon
-agx **** strut for GC diall: 4 in front 8 in the back
-500# spring in front, 400# in the back
-ride height is about 13.75'' - 14.00'' from center of the wheel to fender lip all around
-rear 20mm sway bar
-solid aluminium end link all around
-yokohama A032R-S 205-50-15
-compomotive 25# 15''x7'' rally wheels
-camber plate
-whiteline motorsport ALK
-sti front and rear strut bar
-custom front lower tie bar (sti replica)
-alignement is 3/16 toe out in the front, 0 toe in the back, camber 2.5 front and 1.2 back
-brakes are stock execot for ebc pad
on the go side i have uppipe, downpipe with 3'' bpm twister and no cat
what i feel is i have no nose compared to my previous GC wagon with the same set-up exept for the engine :D
- i swap the rear sway bar for a 20-22-24:
22mm was better but still i cannot get the rear end to slide off by heavy lifting
24mm alot better but i would like to try 26mm
still go to get better in tigh place and slow corner but the front is pushing alot more that it was on higher speed corner or under heavy acceleration, i can spin the front tire all the way to top of second gear and wear the front tire very quickly.
i am planning on beefing the front bar to a 22mm
i finished 2nd ar canadian nationnal in esp with the but i feel i can do alot better if i can fix my problem, i took SWANO's stx car for a spin at somme fun run this week end and managed to beat is time by 2 sec and that time would have been good for a top three finish so my driving is not the major factor here
looking forward for your input guys!
| zzyzx | 08-19-2004 03:12 PM |
Swap the springs F/R
Ditch the front swaybar
Lower the front .25" (Keep the back .50" higher, not .25")
That should about do it...
Ditch the front swaybar
Lower the front .25" (Keep the back .50" higher, not .25")
That should about do it...
| wrx2.0 555 | 08-19-2004 03:16 PM |
[I]edited due to KC's much more intelligent response. :)[/I]
| KC | 08-19-2004 03:37 PM |
What's the max spring rate ann AGX can handle? I'm willing to bet it's around 400lbs. You might be underdamped and not have enough rebound in the AGX to handle the higher spring rate... when the sturt can't control the spring... the car won't handle.
I don't know what the max rate is, that's why I'm asking. ;)
Also:
205-50-15 Yokos on compomotive 25# 15''x7'' rally wheels. You don't have close to enough traction for auto-x with those small tires... and the wheels are too heavy at that.
I don't know what the max rate is, that's why I'm asking. ;)
Also:
205-50-15 Yokos on compomotive 25# 15''x7'' rally wheels. You don't have close to enough traction for auto-x with those small tires... and the wheels are too heavy at that.
| ratt_finkel | 08-19-2004 03:44 PM |
Agreed on the tires, a 225 atleast. Also, I find it hard to believe you still can't get the car to rotate with that setup. Have you tried changing your driving style at all?
What type of air pressures are you running?
What type of air pressures are you running?
| graff | 08-19-2004 04:08 PM |
other people have tried the car and there fealling is the same, even david larose black bmw (6 or 7 in dsp at last year's nationnal in topeka) tried it and didn�t understand how i managed to get those time with a car pushing that much
having said that swano and i are running the exact same set up except for front sway bar and tire but he is runninng a 2002 TS instead of a wrx and is car rotate alot more than mine
the agx have a hard time controlling the spring thats for shure but the set up is faster than 350-300# spring i have tried that before
pressure wise i am running 42-45 in the front and 48-50 in the back (hot pressure) any lower then that is worst i have tried all pressure from 30's and up
thanks for you input
having said that swano and i are running the exact same set up except for front sway bar and tire but he is runninng a 2002 TS instead of a wrx and is car rotate alot more than mine
the agx have a hard time controlling the spring thats for shure but the set up is faster than 350-300# spring i have tried that before
pressure wise i am running 42-45 in the front and 48-50 in the back (hot pressure) any lower then that is worst i have tried all pressure from 30's and up
thanks for you input
| BriDrive | 08-19-2004 04:14 PM |
I think the front swaybar will actually HELP. The rear bar will certainly effect what the rear is going to do and how long it takes to do it, but the front end understeer can be reduced by adding a stiffer bar. There is a point of diminishing return on the front bar stiffness, and this will depend alot on driving style and all the other stuff on your list.
I was skeptical until I added a front bar (on a WRX sedan) and saw very noticeable improvement...
I'll bet KC is probably right also on the AGX dilemma.........(did a search, could find no published spring rate windows for those)
BriDrive
I was skeptical until I added a front bar (on a WRX sedan) and saw very noticeable improvement...
I'll bet KC is probably right also on the AGX dilemma.........(did a search, could find no published spring rate windows for those)
BriDrive
| solo-x | 08-19-2004 04:35 PM |
get rid of your rear camber. car will spin like a top.
nate
nate
| TeamSlowdotOrg | 08-19-2004 04:39 PM |
[QUOTE=BriDrive]
I'll bet KC is probably right also on the AGX dilemma.........(did a search, could find no published spring rate windows for those)
BriDrive[/QUOTE]
That's because the question of "what rate can my strut handle?" can't be answered with a blanket range very accurately, and it'd be foolish for a company to do so. It's determined by what piston speeds the shock will see, which are determined by motion ratios, vehicle weight, surface conditions and the type of maneuvers the car will be doing. Yumps? Sraroms? Kerbs?
Rest assured though, that on a WRX that autocrosses: (Large motion ratio, high piston speeds due to quick maneuvers and bumps) it's not much. :)
I blame the shocks, and the spring stagger is weird too, but that's not going to cause anything but understeer.
I'll bet KC is probably right also on the AGX dilemma.........(did a search, could find no published spring rate windows for those)
BriDrive[/QUOTE]
That's because the question of "what rate can my strut handle?" can't be answered with a blanket range very accurately, and it'd be foolish for a company to do so. It's determined by what piston speeds the shock will see, which are determined by motion ratios, vehicle weight, surface conditions and the type of maneuvers the car will be doing. Yumps? Sraroms? Kerbs?
Rest assured though, that on a WRX that autocrosses: (Large motion ratio, high piston speeds due to quick maneuvers and bumps) it's not much. :)
I blame the shocks, and the spring stagger is weird too, but that's not going to cause anything but understeer.
| BriDrive | 08-19-2004 04:51 PM |
[QUOTE=TeamSlowdotOrg]That's because the question of "what rate can my strut handle?" can't be answered with a blanket range very accurately, and it'd be foolish for a company to do so. [/QUOTE]
You left out the MOST important variable in your motion ratio list: the spring rate.
It wouldn't be foolish for a company to specify this. Regardless of motion ratio from a particular car, a strut with valving spec "x" can only handle so much spring rate "y" before blowing out prematurely and causing warranty issues for said company.
No harm in listing a "recommended range" from the manufacturer.
Coilover manufacturers are pretty "wise" to this. Specificity is integral.
Google something like " KYB AGX spring rate " or the like and you'll get a hundred forum threads with guys from Honda/Acura/Nissan/Subaru all standing around scratching their heads comparing spring rate notes inconclusively, with a random " Hey, my blew up in 3 months" thrown in here and there................
BriDrive
You left out the MOST important variable in your motion ratio list: the spring rate.
It wouldn't be foolish for a company to specify this. Regardless of motion ratio from a particular car, a strut with valving spec "x" can only handle so much spring rate "y" before blowing out prematurely and causing warranty issues for said company.
No harm in listing a "recommended range" from the manufacturer.
Coilover manufacturers are pretty "wise" to this. Specificity is integral.
Google something like " KYB AGX spring rate " or the like and you'll get a hundred forum threads with guys from Honda/Acura/Nissan/Subaru all standing around scratching their heads comparing spring rate notes inconclusively, with a random " Hey, my blew up in 3 months" thrown in here and there................
BriDrive
| solo-x | 08-19-2004 09:58 PM |
bridrive, keep in mind that the suspension on a car is ALWAYS underdamped. a critically damped suspension would be undriveable. how underdamped a spring/damper combination needs to be is highly dependant on surface type, driver preference, degree of suspension bind, level of aero, the type of competition, and a host of other variables. therefore, for a manufacturer to say that a shock will work in a certain spring rate range is a useless number. you are either within the range or you're outside it, but it doesn't mean you are properly damped if you're inside this mythical range and it doesn't mean you are improperly damped if you're outside it.
all that being said, the damping curves that i've seen for the agx's for the h/a applications is abysmal. i doubt that the curve for a wrx is any better. the agx is a fine shock for a slight upgrade over stock and for the weekend warrior that doesn't want to spend a boat load of money on a more specialized shock, but when we start looking at high spring rates and a desire to be competitive a better shock is definitely needed. OTS koni SA's are substantially better, but to really have a damper that is going to work well for what you're doing even the koni's should be revalved.
nate
all that being said, the damping curves that i've seen for the agx's for the h/a applications is abysmal. i doubt that the curve for a wrx is any better. the agx is a fine shock for a slight upgrade over stock and for the weekend warrior that doesn't want to spend a boat load of money on a more specialized shock, but when we start looking at high spring rates and a desire to be competitive a better shock is definitely needed. OTS koni SA's are substantially better, but to really have a damper that is going to work well for what you're doing even the koni's should be revalved.
nate
| BriDrive | 08-20-2004 10:26 AM |
Well Nate...that really is the answer we have all beat around the bush on for GRAFF isn't it :) .............graff: ditch the agx combo, go with higher end gear such as custom KONI, coilovers like JIC FLT/rs, etc, etc.............
Oh, and I still say throw the front bar on, epsecially if you've already got it...
The best advice is not to take advice necessarily, rather, trial and error on your own part.
Oh, and I still say throw the front bar on, epsecially if you've already got it...
The best advice is not to take advice necessarily, rather, trial and error on your own part.
| Scooby South | 08-20-2004 10:53 AM |
definately...switch the springs from front to rear. ...Agree with the tire comments...Get rid of the front Strut bar...:).... and dial down the front struts to 2....
Alignment is also a issue here....need to get the thing on the rack and spend some time getting the settings right....Stay with the stock front bar....and get a adjustable rear bar..:D...that should help out by huge amounts...:)
Bill
Alignment is also a issue here....need to get the thing on the rack and spend some time getting the settings right....Stay with the stock front bar....and get a adjustable rear bar..:D...that should help out by huge amounts...:)
Bill
| ratt_finkel | 08-20-2004 10:57 AM |
[QUOTE=solo-x]bridrive, keep in mind that the suspension on a car is ALWAYS underdamped. a critically damped suspension would be undriveable. how underdamped a spring/damper combination needs to be is highly dependant on surface type, driver preference, degree of suspension bind, level of aero, the type of competition, and a host of other variables. therefore, for a manufacturer to say that a shock will work in a certain spring rate range is a useless number. you are either within the range or you're outside it, but it doesn't mean you are properly damped if you're inside this mythical range and it doesn't mean you are improperly damped if you're outside it.
all that being said, the damping curves that i've seen for the agx's for the h/a applications is abysmal. i doubt that the curve for a wrx is any better. the agx is a fine shock for a slight upgrade over stock and for the weekend warrior that doesn't want to spend a boat load of money on a more specialized shock, but when we start looking at high spring rates and a desire to be competitive a better shock is definitely needed. OTS koni SA's are substantially better, but to really have a damper that is going to work well for what you're doing even the koni's should be revalved.
nate[/QUOTE]
OTS Koni's are rated at 500lb springs. I don't see what other companies couldn't follow suit. Also, by your logic. The same spring rate, 500 for giggles, is not the same on a Miata, as it is an F-body?
all that being said, the damping curves that i've seen for the agx's for the h/a applications is abysmal. i doubt that the curve for a wrx is any better. the agx is a fine shock for a slight upgrade over stock and for the weekend warrior that doesn't want to spend a boat load of money on a more specialized shock, but when we start looking at high spring rates and a desire to be competitive a better shock is definitely needed. OTS koni SA's are substantially better, but to really have a damper that is going to work well for what you're doing even the koni's should be revalved.
nate[/QUOTE]
OTS Koni's are rated at 500lb springs. I don't see what other companies couldn't follow suit. Also, by your logic. The same spring rate, 500 for giggles, is not the same on a Miata, as it is an F-body?
| solo-x | 08-20-2004 11:16 AM |
where is that rating for the OTS koni? on message boards, it is generally accepted that a 500lb spring is the upper end of the range for that shock on a wrx. that's the generally accepted number for h/a applications too. before i got my shocks revalved, i was running a 600lb front spring and a 700lb rear spring. the car wasn't "underdamped" in a negative way but i was at the upper end of the adjustment range. now that i have the shocks revalved, my front springs went stiffer by 100lbs, the rears softer by 150lbs and i've ended up again at the upper end of the adjustment range on the fronts. other people run the same shocks i'm using with similar spring rates and aren't anywhere near the limit of the adjustment range on the fronts.
a 500lb spring for a mustang is different then a 500lb spring for a camaro which is different still for a miata, at least when we look at the effective spring rate. a shock isn't valved for a spring though, it's valved for a range of piston velocities. the piston velocities are predominantly determined by motion ratio and vehicle weight. spring rate is a tertiary concern.
bridrive, didn't mean to step on your toes. i was just trying to clarify/expand on what rich said but it came out a little wrong. sorry! :o
a 500lb spring for a mustang is different then a 500lb spring for a camaro which is different still for a miata, at least when we look at the effective spring rate. a shock isn't valved for a spring though, it's valved for a range of piston velocities. the piston velocities are predominantly determined by motion ratio and vehicle weight. spring rate is a tertiary concern.
bridrive, didn't mean to step on your toes. i was just trying to clarify/expand on what rich said but it came out a little wrong. sorry! :o
| BriDrive | 08-20-2004 11:29 AM |
Ahh...no worries here.... :)
I think its safe to say that graff will be better served by something other than AGX's....but who know's........
In suspensions, there are alot of variables that attempt to work together or against each other...Most guys here have been there,done that,tried this, tried that...AND, when it comes to performance suspension choices, it is very subjective to the driver.......
I guess he could have just asked our current reigning (wagon driving ) 2003 STX champion directly, what he's got and what he thinks........... :)
Brian
I think its safe to say that graff will be better served by something other than AGX's....but who know's........
In suspensions, there are alot of variables that attempt to work together or against each other...Most guys here have been there,done that,tried this, tried that...AND, when it comes to performance suspension choices, it is very subjective to the driver.......
I guess he could have just asked our current reigning (wagon driving ) 2003 STX champion directly, what he's got and what he thinks........... :)
Brian
| Swano | 08-20-2004 11:37 AM |
[QUOTE=BriDrive]I guess he could have just asked our current reigning (wagon driving ) 2003 STX champion directly, what he's got and what he thinks........... :)
Brian[/QUOTE]
Yes, but he would have received only one opinion. ;)
Phil =)
Brian[/QUOTE]
Yes, but he would have received only one opinion. ;)
Phil =)
| KC | 08-20-2004 11:52 AM |
[QUOTE=BriDrive]Ahh...no worries here.... :)
I think its safe to say that graff will be better served by something other than AGX's....but who know's........
In suspensions, there are alot of variables that attempt to work together or against each other...Most guys here have been there,done that,tried this, tried that...AND, when it comes to performance suspension choices, it is very subjective to the driver.......
I guess he could have just asked our current reigning (wagon driving ) 2003 STX champion directly, what he's got and what he thinks........... :)
Brian[/QUOTE]
And I take advice from a honda driver.... and it works very well. ;)
I think its safe to say that graff will be better served by something other than AGX's....but who know's........
In suspensions, there are alot of variables that attempt to work together or against each other...Most guys here have been there,done that,tried this, tried that...AND, when it comes to performance suspension choices, it is very subjective to the driver.......
I guess he could have just asked our current reigning (wagon driving ) 2003 STX champion directly, what he's got and what he thinks........... :)
Brian[/QUOTE]
And I take advice from a honda driver.... and it works very well. ;)
| zzyzx | 08-20-2004 01:27 PM |
[QUOTE=BriDrive]I was skeptical until I added a front bar (on a [b] stock, camber challenged[/b] WRX sedan [b] with relatively soft springs[/b]) and saw very noticeable improvement... [b] in what, exactly? [/b]
[/QUOTE]
There, I think this probably fills in the gaps in your response. Please correct this if wrong.
My original suggestion stands. Given the spring rates and sufficient negative camber up front, bigger bar = less grip.
- Steve Sulatycki
[/QUOTE]
There, I think this probably fills in the gaps in your response. Please correct this if wrong.
My original suggestion stands. Given the spring rates and sufficient negative camber up front, bigger bar = less grip.
- Steve Sulatycki
| BriDrive | 08-20-2004 01:47 PM |
:huh:
Uhh, errr....OK:
I run nice conservative 7k front 5k rear JIC's with, cusco @23mm out back and 21mm front sway...I run -2.8 degrees front and -1.0 in the rear camber with 2/16 comb.toe out in front and 0 toe rear....I run Azenis (225x45x17). Improved end links on rear.
Now:
Just adding my 21mm front sway bar and a slight change in tire pressures and I am alot faster than I was on my stock front as compared to my competition. And further, its not just the times that are faster, its that my car's front understeer has diminished significantly with the addition of just a 1mm thicker front sway bar.
There you go Steve. That ought to do it.
See what graff get's when he asked a question? Opinions.....your results may vary. ;)
Uhh, errr....OK:
I run nice conservative 7k front 5k rear JIC's with, cusco @23mm out back and 21mm front sway...I run -2.8 degrees front and -1.0 in the rear camber with 2/16 comb.toe out in front and 0 toe rear....I run Azenis (225x45x17). Improved end links on rear.
Now:
Just adding my 21mm front sway bar and a slight change in tire pressures and I am alot faster than I was on my stock front as compared to my competition. And further, its not just the times that are faster, its that my car's front understeer has diminished significantly with the addition of just a 1mm thicker front sway bar.
There you go Steve. That ought to do it.
See what graff get's when he asked a question? Opinions.....your results may vary. ;)
| zzyzx | 08-20-2004 02:15 PM |
Thanks. That does clear things up.
As we know by now, a bigger bar on a stock suspensioned WRX/STi can increased grip because of the lack of camber adjustability and excessive body roll due to soft springs.
Hence, I had to make a guess as to what type of setup you were commentiing on.
Clearly, as this thread points out, suspension tuning isn't simple.
However, given graff's setup, doing what I said will increase front end grip. Simply stated, his roll center stiffness is the opposite of where it needs to be for autox, as is yours. Your setup has the added challenge that, as I guessed, your spring rates are most likely too soft for optimal performance in autox, though probably a great compromise for a combo car. Hence the relatively large swaybars you need to get the balance you desire.
There are other disadvantages of large swaybars on our Imprezas, also. I'll leave this to the imagination for those that haven't had to deal with these issues first hand. :)
In terms of opinions, well, I guess you could state it that way... Or, you could mimic the fastest STX setups and fine tune from there. I believe this makes a lot of sense when you're starting out. And that said, I can tell you that the fastest STX setups are more akin to what I'm suggesting. Now, I race on R-compund tires and have a relatively unique setup overall, but I've concluded first hand that the same general rules of thumb apply to our Imprezas having migrated from the STS to DSP.
Nate may have confused everybody about springs/rates, but he's actually used to cars that have real suspensions. ;)
- Steve Sulatycki
As we know by now, a bigger bar on a stock suspensioned WRX/STi can increased grip because of the lack of camber adjustability and excessive body roll due to soft springs.
Hence, I had to make a guess as to what type of setup you were commentiing on.
Clearly, as this thread points out, suspension tuning isn't simple.
However, given graff's setup, doing what I said will increase front end grip. Simply stated, his roll center stiffness is the opposite of where it needs to be for autox, as is yours. Your setup has the added challenge that, as I guessed, your spring rates are most likely too soft for optimal performance in autox, though probably a great compromise for a combo car. Hence the relatively large swaybars you need to get the balance you desire.
There are other disadvantages of large swaybars on our Imprezas, also. I'll leave this to the imagination for those that haven't had to deal with these issues first hand. :)
In terms of opinions, well, I guess you could state it that way... Or, you could mimic the fastest STX setups and fine tune from there. I believe this makes a lot of sense when you're starting out. And that said, I can tell you that the fastest STX setups are more akin to what I'm suggesting. Now, I race on R-compund tires and have a relatively unique setup overall, but I've concluded first hand that the same general rules of thumb apply to our Imprezas having migrated from the STS to DSP.
Nate may have confused everybody about springs/rates, but he's actually used to cars that have real suspensions. ;)
- Steve Sulatycki
| BriDrive | 08-20-2004 02:27 PM |
Final thought, and sorta back to the original point....I think its safe to say, using your words "mimic'ing the fastest STX setups" DOESN"T include KYB AGX rigs :)
His original problem MAY have more to do with this than sway bars.
Brian
His original problem MAY have more to do with this than sway bars.
Brian
| zzyzx | 08-20-2004 02:34 PM |
[QUOTE=BriDrive]His original problem MAY have more to do with this than sway bars.
[/QUOTE]
Nah. Having personally gone up to spring rates that would make mere mortals shake apart, I had a serious lack of proper damping at one point, also. The downsides of this setup did not translate into simple under/oversteer issues, but more affected transitional situations.
Steady state/push situations are more a affected by spring/rollbar rates than they are shock damping. Though damping affects corner entry/exit, it's to a lesser overall degree.
- Steve Sulatycki
[/QUOTE]
Nah. Having personally gone up to spring rates that would make mere mortals shake apart, I had a serious lack of proper damping at one point, also. The downsides of this setup did not translate into simple under/oversteer issues, but more affected transitional situations.
Steady state/push situations are more a affected by spring/rollbar rates than they are shock damping. Though damping affects corner entry/exit, it's to a lesser overall degree.
- Steve Sulatycki
| BriDrive | 08-20-2004 02:37 PM |
Hey, Steve....
Something else I didn't notice until..doh...now
What do you have to say for his 205x50x15's :eek:
Brian
Something else I didn't notice until..doh...now
What do you have to say for his 205x50x15's :eek:
Brian
| graff | 08-20-2004 02:46 PM |
thanks guy!
i'll stick with the agx for this year, i canno't afford a full race coil over right now, i have tried the jic already and loved it, a friend of mine will be installing a tanabe RR on is wagon next week so i'll take it for a spin and see how it does.
as far as front sway bar goes, some say yes some say no, i guess i'll have to try it for my self and see what it does.
i'll also get the rear camber back to something like -.5 next week
also i'll shurely get wider tire for next year, the point of running 205/50/a5 was that it kind upgraded my final drive and gave me alot more punch, and also saving having to down**** to 1st ( we get way slower course up here thant what you guys are used to). I might be moving to stx next year so i'll stick with the tires to finish the 3-4 event left on my calendar.
what should i do move to 16'' or go to 17'' and wich wheel width, offset and tire size to run ????
anyway i'll try the sway bar this week end and get back to you guy on monday with weither or no i have seen an improvement!
steph
i'll stick with the agx for this year, i canno't afford a full race coil over right now, i have tried the jic already and loved it, a friend of mine will be installing a tanabe RR on is wagon next week so i'll take it for a spin and see how it does.
as far as front sway bar goes, some say yes some say no, i guess i'll have to try it for my self and see what it does.
i'll also get the rear camber back to something like -.5 next week
also i'll shurely get wider tire for next year, the point of running 205/50/a5 was that it kind upgraded my final drive and gave me alot more punch, and also saving having to down**** to 1st ( we get way slower course up here thant what you guys are used to). I might be moving to stx next year so i'll stick with the tires to finish the 3-4 event left on my calendar.
what should i do move to 16'' or go to 17'' and wich wheel width, offset and tire size to run ????
anyway i'll try the sway bar this week end and get back to you guy on monday with weither or no i have seen an improvement!
steph
| zzyzx | 08-20-2004 02:51 PM |
Well, those aren't real tires, now are they? :lol:
That, and graff must be in a region where 1st gear autox courses are the norm. ;)
He'd be better off using the stock wheels with the 215/45-16 Falkens.
- Steve Sulatycki
That, and graff must be in a region where 1st gear autox courses are the norm. ;)
He'd be better off using the stock wheels with the 215/45-16 Falkens.
- Steve Sulatycki
| cooleyjb | 08-20-2004 06:54 PM |
I posted the same question on tires (for STX) a while back and pretty much I got the response that the WRX is BIG HEAVY car even though many think of it as a small car. It needs as much contact patch as it can get. While the 16's do give better gearing (about7-8% I think not positive though) you do give up contact patch which is negatively affecting the 3200 lb WRX while in turning and braking. The other two-thirds of an autocross after acceleration.
joe
joe
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