| hkwan | 11-15-2002 01:29 AM |
Review of Hella 100/80W light bulb
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I've posted questions couple of days ago for obtaining bigger wiring harness/headlight bulb socket for running a bigger bulb. Some of I-clubbers have given me good suggestions and here is the review after the installation.
First off, I've been running the ri<e bulbs (blue bulb, 65/55W) for over a year (hated 10 months of it), therefore I don't remember how the stocker performs. These Hella's are great. As a bonus, they only cost 12 bucks each (total 30 bucks shipped).
The output is about 200 to 300 times of the blue bulbs. The light pattern is wider and taller as well. The difference is like I'm running both hi and lo beam together if I were using the blue bulbs. Extremely nice especially for the price. Now, wondering if someone has experience on the higher wattage blue bulbs?
Oh, BTW, the only draw back is that on some dark road, the street signs get reflected a little too much, causing some eye strain. Otherwise, I'm way less tired when driving at night now.
First off, I've been running the ri<e bulbs (blue bulb, 65/55W) for over a year (hated 10 months of it), therefore I don't remember how the stocker performs. These Hella's are great. As a bonus, they only cost 12 bucks each (total 30 bucks shipped).
The output is about 200 to 300 times of the blue bulbs. The light pattern is wider and taller as well. The difference is like I'm running both hi and lo beam together if I were using the blue bulbs. Extremely nice especially for the price. Now, wondering if someone has experience on the higher wattage blue bulbs?
Oh, BTW, the only draw back is that on some dark road, the street signs get reflected a little too much, causing some eye strain. Otherwise, I'm way less tired when driving at night now.
| Ginseng | 11-15-2002 08:50 AM |
Henry,
As you know, I'm pretty pleased with Hella Optilux bolubs in both my WRX and Forester. However, just two nights ago, I blew the passenger-side headlamp connector on the WRX. Now both sides have blown. So, I picked up another aftermarket 9004 socket, spliced on 3M WeatherTite blade connectors and away we go. If I were you, I'd have these bits ready for when your headlamp connector toast up.
Wilkey
As you know, I'm pretty pleased with Hella Optilux bolubs in both my WRX and Forester. However, just two nights ago, I blew the passenger-side headlamp connector on the WRX. Now both sides have blown. So, I picked up another aftermarket 9004 socket, spliced on 3M WeatherTite blade connectors and away we go. If I were you, I'd have these bits ready for when your headlamp connector toast up.
Wilkey
| hkwan | 11-15-2002 12:26 PM |
Thank you very much Wilkey for the heads-up. The connector on the pass. side that got blew 2 nights ago was the original stock connector or the aftermarket socket?
I've upgraded to the Motormite (brand) socket (~$3 ea). The socket has three ~6" wires (same size as our stock wire) connected. These are some fat blue conncetors. Hopefully they will work.
Thank you once again,
Henry
PS I've written to the web site asking about the detail of Optilux bulbs; Dave there told me that the Optilux bulb is a project from Hella that failed. The 78322 is their latest. That's what I've bought.
I've upgraded to the Motormite (brand) socket (~$3 ea). The socket has three ~6" wires (same size as our stock wire) connected. These are some fat blue conncetors. Hopefully they will work.
Thank you once again,
Henry
PS I've written to the web site asking about the detail of Optilux bulbs; Dave there told me that the Optilux bulb is a project from Hella that failed. The 78322 is their latest. That's what I've bought.
| Arnie | 11-15-2002 01:46 PM |
Are you running a heavy duty wiring harness with relays, etc? If not, you will be frying yours wires as well, plus you might not be getting the max amount of juice to the bulbs.
I was running 90/100w H4's in my RS for a couple of years with the heavy duty harness. No problems other than the browning of the reflector shroud covering the bulb. Too hot! Be aware that these high wattage bulbs will burn out in about half the time of normal bulbs. That is the tradeoff. Its not that they are defective but you can't expect a bulb to burn twice as bright without some kind of trade off, and with these, its heat and longevity.
Enjoy.
I was running 90/100w H4's in my RS for a couple of years with the heavy duty harness. No problems other than the browning of the reflector shroud covering the bulb. Too hot! Be aware that these high wattage bulbs will burn out in about half the time of normal bulbs. That is the tradeoff. Its not that they are defective but you can't expect a bulb to burn twice as bright without some kind of trade off, and with these, its heat and longevity.
Enjoy.
| Seraph | 11-15-2002 04:36 PM |
well one little thing we can all do is deactivate the drl relay, the drl relay is evil, especially when you blow one bulb during the daytime and have no way of turning it off, you just look like a retard with one light thats on during the day :p
| hkwan | 11-15-2002 06:31 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Arnie [/i]
[B]Are you running a heavy duty wiring harness with relays, etc? If not, you will be frying yours wires as well, plus you might not be getting the max amount of juice to the bulbs.
I was running 90/100w H4's in my RS for a couple of years with the heavy duty harness. No problems other than the browning of the reflector shroud covering the bulb. Too hot! Be aware that these high wattage bulbs will burn out in about half the time of normal bulbs. That is the tradeoff. Its not that they are defective but you can't expect a bulb to burn twice as bright without some kind of trade off, and with these, its heat and longevity.
Enjoy. [/B][/QUOTE]
Arnie,
thank you for your suggestion as well. I've seen harness with relay runs ~$35. If the wire burns, I will upgrade to that. For now, I will stick with the stock wires. I've heard people from I-club seeing connector melting before wiring gets damaged. I believe Ginseng on here has only gotten connector damages, not the wiring damage.
[B]Are you running a heavy duty wiring harness with relays, etc? If not, you will be frying yours wires as well, plus you might not be getting the max amount of juice to the bulbs.
I was running 90/100w H4's in my RS for a couple of years with the heavy duty harness. No problems other than the browning of the reflector shroud covering the bulb. Too hot! Be aware that these high wattage bulbs will burn out in about half the time of normal bulbs. That is the tradeoff. Its not that they are defective but you can't expect a bulb to burn twice as bright without some kind of trade off, and with these, its heat and longevity.
Enjoy. [/B][/QUOTE]
Arnie,
thank you for your suggestion as well. I've seen harness with relay runs ~$35. If the wire burns, I will upgrade to that. For now, I will stick with the stock wires. I've heard people from I-club seeing connector melting before wiring gets damaged. I believe Ginseng on here has only gotten connector damages, not the wiring damage.
| Arnie | 11-15-2002 08:07 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by hkwan [/i]
[B]
Arnie,
thank you for your suggestion as well. I've seen harness with relay runs ~$35. If the wire burns, I will upgrade to that. For now, I will stick with the stock wires. I've heard people from I-club seeing connector melting before wiring gets damaged. I believe Ginseng on here has only gotten connector damages, not the wiring damage. [/B][/QUOTE]
Be careful with that, as any sort of electrical fire is dangerous and waiting till something melts or catches fire is not too smart!:p
check these guys out, scroll to the bottom, "High Performance Head Lamp Wiring Harnesses". This is what I used:
[url]http://www.autobulbdepot.com/fr_prodindex.tpl?cart=312022472810366[/url]
[B]
Arnie,
thank you for your suggestion as well. I've seen harness with relay runs ~$35. If the wire burns, I will upgrade to that. For now, I will stick with the stock wires. I've heard people from I-club seeing connector melting before wiring gets damaged. I believe Ginseng on here has only gotten connector damages, not the wiring damage. [/B][/QUOTE]
Be careful with that, as any sort of electrical fire is dangerous and waiting till something melts or catches fire is not too smart!:p
check these guys out, scroll to the bottom, "High Performance Head Lamp Wiring Harnesses". This is what I used:
[url]http://www.autobulbdepot.com/fr_prodindex.tpl?cart=312022472810366[/url]
| Whit | 11-16-2002 08:10 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Arnie [/i]
[B]
Be careful with that, as any sort of electrical fire is dangerous and waiting till something melts or catches fire is not too smart!:p
check these guys out, scroll to the bottom, "High Performance Head Lamp Wiring Harnesses". This is what I used:
[url]http://www.autobulbdepot.com/fr_prodindex.tpl?cart=312022472810366[/url] [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks for the link Arnie, I've been looking for that one. I plan to use the 55/100 Hella bulbs.
[B]
Be careful with that, as any sort of electrical fire is dangerous and waiting till something melts or catches fire is not too smart!:p
check these guys out, scroll to the bottom, "High Performance Head Lamp Wiring Harnesses". This is what I used:
[url]http://www.autobulbdepot.com/fr_prodindex.tpl?cart=312022472810366[/url] [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks for the link Arnie, I've been looking for that one. I plan to use the 55/100 Hella bulbs.
| Arnie | 11-16-2002 11:54 AM |
55/100W? Aww, you can go for the 80/100's! If you are going through the hassle of rewiring (its very easy actually) then go for the extra light all the time! Okay, you will get that shroud browning but its not a big deal. I suggest ordering up an extra pair of bulbs, since you'll go through them a bit faster than with normal bulbs.
| Whit | 11-16-2002 07:57 PM |
Yeah, I think 80w low beam is too bright, personally I hate it when someone comes at me at night on a country road with super bright lights. Getting old I guess.
| nuburu2 | 11-17-2002 10:48 AM |
Thought I'd chime in for hkwan. Having done the harness upgrade I thought I'd point out the fact that the HD harness is activated by the OE plug on the driver's side. If you toast your OE plug(s), which is the most common failure, you'll have to replace that one to do the upgrade. As pointed out by Arnie, waiting til you melt wiring/plugs risks a catastrophic failure, and as everyone knows, these kind of failures never happen at a convenient time or place (a function of "Murphy's Law). After seeing what an improvement the HD harness made with my OE wattage X-TraVision bulbs I'd heartily recommend you make this part of your settup ASAP!! Don't wait for a failure, on a back road, in a storm, in the middle of the night, out of cellphone range, to prove me right!:eek: :eek:
Glenn O'Whydidn'tIthinkof that;)
Glenn O'Whydidn'tIthinkof that;)
| hkwan | 11-17-2002 12:52 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by nuburu2 [/i]
[B]Thought I'd chime in for hkwan. Having done the harness upgrade I thought I'd point out the fact that the HD harness is activated by the OE plug on the driver's side. If you toast your OE plug(s), which is the most common failure, you'll have to replace that one to do the upgrade. As pointed out by Arnie, waiting til you melt wiring/plugs risks a catastrophic failure, and as everyone knows, these kind of failures never happen at a convenient time or place (a function of "Murphy's Law). After seeing what an improvement the HD harness made with my OE wattage X-TraVision bulbs I'd heartily recommend you make this part of your settup ASAP!! Don't wait for a failure, on a back road, in a storm, in the middle of the night, out of cellphone range, to prove me right!:eek: :eek:
Glenn O'Whydidn'tIthinkof that;) [/B][/QUOTE]
That is a very good point. I've seen the site that sells the Heavy Duty Harness for $35 bucks, just can't seem to find it now?!
[B]Thought I'd chime in for hkwan. Having done the harness upgrade I thought I'd point out the fact that the HD harness is activated by the OE plug on the driver's side. If you toast your OE plug(s), which is the most common failure, you'll have to replace that one to do the upgrade. As pointed out by Arnie, waiting til you melt wiring/plugs risks a catastrophic failure, and as everyone knows, these kind of failures never happen at a convenient time or place (a function of "Murphy's Law). After seeing what an improvement the HD harness made with my OE wattage X-TraVision bulbs I'd heartily recommend you make this part of your settup ASAP!! Don't wait for a failure, on a back road, in a storm, in the middle of the night, out of cellphone range, to prove me right!:eek: :eek:
Glenn O'Whydidn'tIthinkof that;) [/B][/QUOTE]
That is a very good point. I've seen the site that sells the Heavy Duty Harness for $35 bucks, just can't seem to find it now?!
| clamdip | 11-17-2002 06:00 PM |
to solve all your problems, buy HID's. they're worth it.
| hkwan | 11-17-2002 08:22 PM |
Clamdip, thank you for the suggestion; this thread isn't about the HID even though that would be ultimate solution. Our stock housing isn't ideal for the HID and we will lose the Hi beams. To do it correctly with HID's we need to go to aftermarket headlight systems (Prodrive, etc). What we are doing is a good compromoise @ ~8% of the price. Thanks for the suggestion.
For the rest of us, suvlights.com has the heavy duty harness for $35, just bought a set. Thanks all for the suggestion.
For the rest of us, suvlights.com has the heavy duty harness for $35, just bought a set. Thanks all for the suggestion.
| Arnie | 11-18-2002 01:00 AM |
hey, good for you. enjoy.
| KapaFool | 11-19-2002 02:11 AM |
I also use Hella 80/100 on a 2000RS. They seem to handle the higher wattage with no problems. They are the best bulbs I have seen for visibility.
| hkwan | 11-19-2002 11:52 AM |
KapaFool, are you saying that the stock sockets handle the higher wattage without problem? Sounds like you are. If so, how long have you been running with the bigger bulbs?
For those who have used the heavy duty harness (with relays, individual power line and grounding), do you notice any increase in lighting output with JUST the harness upgrade?
For those who have used the heavy duty harness (with relays, individual power line and grounding), do you notice any increase in lighting output with JUST the harness upgrade?
| Arnie | 11-19-2002 01:29 PM |
I can't say I noticed a difference with a 55/60 with the heavy duty harness. But I really do suggest you go with the HD harness before you put any serious time on the road with your high powered bulbs. Some people say they don't have any problems but I was using the lights 6-8 hours at a time during frequent long distance night driving. The worst is stop and go traffic where you don't have any cooling effect from the wind. They get pretty hot.
| wrxlvr | 11-19-2002 06:06 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Seraph [/i]
[B]you just look like a retard with one light thats on during the day :p [/B][/QUOTE]
You mean like all the V-dubs? :lol:
[B]you just look like a retard with one light thats on during the day :p [/B][/QUOTE]
You mean like all the V-dubs? :lol:
| hkwan | 11-27-2002 05:35 PM |
I was tracking down my shipment from suvlights.com as to why the shipment is arriving so slowly. They are saying that because I have the Subaru they have to add a diode/resistor unit to the heavy duty harness. Anyone here who has bought heavy duty harness knows if they have additional diode added to their harness?
thanks.
thanks.
| Arnie | 11-28-2002 01:46 AM |
Diodes? hmm, not mine. I had two relays and you need to know if the car is ground switched or not.
| hkwan | 11-28-2002 04:20 AM |
Well, the dude made it sounds like he knows Subaru because he pointed out that I have a Subaru and he mentioned that he added the diode because the harness is for a Subaru. We will find out.
So, is our car ground switched, Arnie?
So, is our car ground switched, Arnie?
| KapaFool | 11-28-2002 04:30 AM |
[QUOTE]KapaFool, are you saying that the stock sockets handle the higher wattage without problem? Sounds like you are. If so, how long have you been running with the bigger bulbs?[/QUOTE]
Those H4 80/100 are installed in my 00RS not in the WRX. I have not had any problems with those bulbs for 2 years now. They finally burned out after 1 year and replaced with the same set. I have read about the problems with putting higher wattage bulbs in the WRX and know someone that burned out their harnesses with those bulbs. With all the money I have spent on different bulbs I have decided to install the HID system in my stock headlight assemblies. Much brighter and I haven't had anyone hi-beam me while driving. When I can afford to get some STi projectors ahl get them but for now I need brighter lights for the winter.
Those H4 80/100 are installed in my 00RS not in the WRX. I have not had any problems with those bulbs for 2 years now. They finally burned out after 1 year and replaced with the same set. I have read about the problems with putting higher wattage bulbs in the WRX and know someone that burned out their harnesses with those bulbs. With all the money I have spent on different bulbs I have decided to install the HID system in my stock headlight assemblies. Much brighter and I haven't had anyone hi-beam me while driving. When I can afford to get some STi projectors ahl get them but for now I need brighter lights for the winter.
| Mulder | 11-28-2002 08:37 AM |
FYI all-
Yes it is a common positive, switched ground system.
The ground side of the headlight system is not very efficient and there is a significant voltage drop even with stock wattage bulbs. With higher wattage bulbs the drop will be even more. The result of this is that you aren't getting the maximum possible amount of light from any bulb whether stock or aftermarket. I recommend that if you are really serious about improving the performance of your lighting you should add relays on the ground side to provide a more direct ground connection for the lights. Even with stock bulbs this should make a difference.
I have Morettes and my low beams are HIDs, but I have ground relays on the high beams and it does make a difference.
Also remember that if you install high-wattage bulbs without upgrading the sockets and wiring to match, not only is it dangerous but if the connectors/wires are getting hot enough to melt from the voltage drop that heat represents lost light output, so you aren't really getting the full performance (and your money's worth) from those expensive bulbs.
And, those with GC8s may not have the same problems with melting sockets because they use H4 bulbs rather than 9007, and the bulbs and sockets have larger terminals that can carry the extra current safely (although the ground wiring still sucks).
Yes it is a common positive, switched ground system.
The ground side of the headlight system is not very efficient and there is a significant voltage drop even with stock wattage bulbs. With higher wattage bulbs the drop will be even more. The result of this is that you aren't getting the maximum possible amount of light from any bulb whether stock or aftermarket. I recommend that if you are really serious about improving the performance of your lighting you should add relays on the ground side to provide a more direct ground connection for the lights. Even with stock bulbs this should make a difference.
I have Morettes and my low beams are HIDs, but I have ground relays on the high beams and it does make a difference.
Also remember that if you install high-wattage bulbs without upgrading the sockets and wiring to match, not only is it dangerous but if the connectors/wires are getting hot enough to melt from the voltage drop that heat represents lost light output, so you aren't really getting the full performance (and your money's worth) from those expensive bulbs.
And, those with GC8s may not have the same problems with melting sockets because they use H4 bulbs rather than 9007, and the bulbs and sockets have larger terminals that can carry the extra current safely (although the ground wiring still sucks).
| hkwan | 11-28-2002 10:27 AM |
Yeah Mulder, actually reliability is the main reason why I got the heavy duty harness. It has separate power and ground source from the factory connection, relays, bigger wires, fuse, and supposely diode installed by the vendor - suvlights.com. We'll find out about the diode when, if the harness gets here, whenever that is!!
So Mulder, you are actually saying that I can see more light output after the installation of the harness? Hmm, sounds good. What do you think the voltage drop is due to ineffecient grounding of our stock system? I'm currently using just the aftermarket socket with the bigger bulbs. Should have gone with the entire harness/bulb installation in the beginning.
I've seriously considered going with HID's with stock housing. I feel that if I don't upgrade the stock housing to Morette's, Prodrive's, etc, type lights, I'm not getting the full benefit of the HID's output. Also, I am losing the hi-beam after only going with HID conversion on stock housing. Not getting too much for the money. With just 10% the cost of doing HID conversion, running bigger bulbs + heavy duty harness, I can have the stock light system improved at least over 30% over stock. That's not bad at all in terms of cost/performance.
So Mulder, you are actually saying that I can see more light output after the installation of the harness? Hmm, sounds good. What do you think the voltage drop is due to ineffecient grounding of our stock system? I'm currently using just the aftermarket socket with the bigger bulbs. Should have gone with the entire harness/bulb installation in the beginning.
I've seriously considered going with HID's with stock housing. I feel that if I don't upgrade the stock housing to Morette's, Prodrive's, etc, type lights, I'm not getting the full benefit of the HID's output. Also, I am losing the hi-beam after only going with HID conversion on stock housing. Not getting too much for the money. With just 10% the cost of doing HID conversion, running bigger bulbs + heavy duty harness, I can have the stock light system improved at least over 30% over stock. That's not bad at all in terms of cost/performance.
| Mulder | 11-28-2002 01:58 PM |
Yes you should see a difference just by upgrading the wiring.
After I installed my Morettes, but before changing to HIDs, I took some measurements with the stock bulbs and found there was a 1.5 volt drop on the ground side. This is enough to visibly affect the light output, and that was with 55W bulbs so the same problem exists with the factory lights. I'd estimate that with higher-wattage bulbs which draw more current, the drop would be well in excess of 2 volts.
Just make sure that whatever wiring upgrade kit you install is replacing the ground side of the circuit with a relay connection directly to chassis or battery negative, otherwise the benefit in terms of improved lighting will be limited although it will prevent meltdown.
If you want it is possible to do a test/demo of the benefits of more direct grounding. Just take a wire, connect one end to the switched ground terminal at the low beams on either side, as close to the headlight as possible, and while the lights are on touch the other end to a good chassis ground. You should see the light get noticeably brighter.
After I installed my Morettes, but before changing to HIDs, I took some measurements with the stock bulbs and found there was a 1.5 volt drop on the ground side. This is enough to visibly affect the light output, and that was with 55W bulbs so the same problem exists with the factory lights. I'd estimate that with higher-wattage bulbs which draw more current, the drop would be well in excess of 2 volts.
Just make sure that whatever wiring upgrade kit you install is replacing the ground side of the circuit with a relay connection directly to chassis or battery negative, otherwise the benefit in terms of improved lighting will be limited although it will prevent meltdown.
If you want it is possible to do a test/demo of the benefits of more direct grounding. Just take a wire, connect one end to the switched ground terminal at the low beams on either side, as close to the headlight as possible, and while the lights are on touch the other end to a good chassis ground. You should see the light get noticeably brighter.
| jackansi | 11-28-2002 01:58 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by hkwan [/i]
[B]I was tracking down my shipment from suvlights.com as to why the shipment is arriving so slowly. They are saying that because I have the Subaru they have to add a diode/resistor unit to the heavy duty harness. Anyone here who has bought heavy duty harness knows if they have additional diode added to their harness?
thanks. [/B][/QUOTE]
He could be using this to keep the lower voltage from the DRL unit from tripping the relays (thus keeping your headlights off all the time).. Or just the opposite, to keep the headlights on all the time...
Could also be for protection of the factory DRL setup from any voltage spikes coming from the relays. Relays and light bulbs are different loads after all and when you take the power away from a relay you get a surge back from the field collapsing back through the coil. But I don't know exactly how the DRL are setup in the WRX, so it may not need protection.
Either to defeat the DRL or to protect it, its understandable as to why they would add such components to add reliability or just to cover their own asses from any damages that could happen :eek: :D
Just a thought ;)
[B]I was tracking down my shipment from suvlights.com as to why the shipment is arriving so slowly. They are saying that because I have the Subaru they have to add a diode/resistor unit to the heavy duty harness. Anyone here who has bought heavy duty harness knows if they have additional diode added to their harness?
thanks. [/B][/QUOTE]
He could be using this to keep the lower voltage from the DRL unit from tripping the relays (thus keeping your headlights off all the time).. Or just the opposite, to keep the headlights on all the time...
Could also be for protection of the factory DRL setup from any voltage spikes coming from the relays. Relays and light bulbs are different loads after all and when you take the power away from a relay you get a surge back from the field collapsing back through the coil. But I don't know exactly how the DRL are setup in the WRX, so it may not need protection.
Either to defeat the DRL or to protect it, its understandable as to why they would add such components to add reliability or just to cover their own asses from any damages that could happen :eek: :D
Just a thought ;)
| nuburu2 | 11-28-2002 02:26 PM |
Here's a good source of lighting info. Mr Stern has posted on this board on occasion, and knows his stuff!
[url]http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/tech.html[/url]
Glenn O
edit: Here's an example;
In many cases, the thin factory wires are inadequate even for the stock headlamp equipment. Headlamp bulb light output is severely compromised with decreased voltage. For example, normal engine-running voltage in a "12-volt" automotive electrical system is around 13.5 volts. At this voltage, halogen headlamp bulbs achieve 100 percent of their design luminous output. When operating voltage drops to 95 percent (12.825v), headlamp bulbs produce only 83 percent of their rated light output. When voltage drops to 90 percent (12.15v), bulb output is only 67 percent of what it should be. And when voltage drops to 85 percent (11.475v), bulb output is a paltry 53 percent of normal! [Source: Hella KG Hueck AG, Germany]. It is much more common than you might think for factory headlamp wiring/switch setups to produce this kind of voltage drop, especially once they're no longer brand new and the connections have accumulated some corrosion and dirt.
[url]http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/tech.html[/url]
Glenn O
edit: Here's an example;
In many cases, the thin factory wires are inadequate even for the stock headlamp equipment. Headlamp bulb light output is severely compromised with decreased voltage. For example, normal engine-running voltage in a "12-volt" automotive electrical system is around 13.5 volts. At this voltage, halogen headlamp bulbs achieve 100 percent of their design luminous output. When operating voltage drops to 95 percent (12.825v), headlamp bulbs produce only 83 percent of their rated light output. When voltage drops to 90 percent (12.15v), bulb output is only 67 percent of what it should be. And when voltage drops to 85 percent (11.475v), bulb output is a paltry 53 percent of normal! [Source: Hella KG Hueck AG, Germany]. It is much more common than you might think for factory headlamp wiring/switch setups to produce this kind of voltage drop, especially once they're no longer brand new and the connections have accumulated some corrosion and dirt.
| andygold | 11-29-2002 02:28 AM |
Correct me if I'm wrong....but no matter what after-market harness/relays you are using, you're still funneling all that current through the same tiny pins on the back of the 9007 bulbs. Yes, there should be less of a voltage drop along the thicker harness wires (and with the relays), but you still have the bulb's pins as a limiting factor. I'm now running some Xtravision (stockish wattage) bulbs after toasting both of my bulb connectors, along with the first inch of wiring leading from them. Luckily it burned near the bulbs, and not at some other high resistance location in the harness, as that harness is a one-piece deal that runs around most of the engine compartment( actually 2 separate harnesses), powering almost everything up front under the hood. It costs about $500 for a new harness.
Andy
Andy
| jackansi | 11-29-2002 09:23 AM |
I would say most of the loss happens over the course of the wiring. The stock wiring isn't the guage I would use if I was doing it myself. In fact I'm looking for a 12 or 10AWG harness to replace the stock one. Isn't stock something like 14 or 16?
Most of the loss on a DC circuit like we are talking about would be in the wire itself. I'm not denying there is loss in the connector, I would (am) betting there is more loss in the wiring. The connector is also a mechanical point of failure, if it got bumped in the wrong way while it was turned on, it would create a spark. This spark would destroy part of the connector attached to the wiring (guessing here as the prongs on a 9007 light bulb aren't as puny as the matching contacts in the connector.) Over time this sparking will raise the resistance in the connector due to the loss of metal on the contacts. This jump in resistance creates more heat, which helps further this process. Getting a better quality connector (which just so happens to come on a new HD harness :) will also help to eliminate this issue as well.
I've fried one connector once, sparking was the primary reason for its failure since the low beam contact was burnt so bad there was splattered metal way up inside it. I replaced it and bent the contacts in a bit more on the other factory one. The other factory one is still kicking and now I inspect the contacts every oil change. Still no damage.
Most of the loss on a DC circuit like we are talking about would be in the wire itself. I'm not denying there is loss in the connector, I would (am) betting there is more loss in the wiring. The connector is also a mechanical point of failure, if it got bumped in the wrong way while it was turned on, it would create a spark. This spark would destroy part of the connector attached to the wiring (guessing here as the prongs on a 9007 light bulb aren't as puny as the matching contacts in the connector.) Over time this sparking will raise the resistance in the connector due to the loss of metal on the contacts. This jump in resistance creates more heat, which helps further this process. Getting a better quality connector (which just so happens to come on a new HD harness :) will also help to eliminate this issue as well.
I've fried one connector once, sparking was the primary reason for its failure since the low beam contact was burnt so bad there was splattered metal way up inside it. I replaced it and bent the contacts in a bit more on the other factory one. The other factory one is still kicking and now I inspect the contacts every oil change. Still no damage.
| hkwan | 12-03-2002 12:48 PM |
Heavy Duty Harness review:
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Alright guys, received and installed the harness. Just have to say it again - should have ordered the harness with the bigger bulb and have the whole thing installed together.
Installation of the harness is actually easier than replacing the bulb socket. There are 2 relays and a black box with diode (to shut off low beam when flicking on hi-beam, or else the lightign system will be way too hot with both beams on) on the harness. Installed in ~20min.
Light output is estimated to be more than 30% brighter comparing to just having bigger bulb. It is definitely way brighter than stock. Way, over 100%.
With 10% of the cost of HID conversion and still am preserving hi-beam, I'm getting at least, I'd say over 60% of HID conversion's output. Very nice.
Installation of the harness is actually easier than replacing the bulb socket. There are 2 relays and a black box with diode (to shut off low beam when flicking on hi-beam, or else the lightign system will be way too hot with both beams on) on the harness. Installed in ~20min.
Light output is estimated to be more than 30% brighter comparing to just having bigger bulb. It is definitely way brighter than stock. Way, over 100%.
With 10% of the cost of HID conversion and still am preserving hi-beam, I'm getting at least, I'd say over 60% of HID conversion's output. Very nice.
| Arnie | 12-03-2002 01:12 PM |
that is great to hear. see what happens when you do it right?;) You will get some browning of that reflector shroud but its not a big deal, just unsightly! I'd keep an extra bulb or two in the car as you will go through these quicker than a standard wattage bulb.
arnie
arnie
| hkwan | 12-03-2002 01:22 PM |
Thanks Arnie for the comment. The only problem I see now is that changing bulb is difficult. The clip (or the locking mechanism) of the aftermarket sockets are different. They are more difficult to disengage from the bulbs. This is especially true for the driver side with the battery in the way. Any tricks that anyone with aftermarket socket can share?
| nuburu2 | 12-04-2002 11:27 AM |
Glad to hear you're pleased with the results of the harness upgrade. It reinforces what I had thought might be my imagination as far as the noticeable improvement in light output. As to the socket access problem, I guess shifting the battery around might help, but it's really a small issue, as how often will you be changing bulbs now that you can SEE!?:lol:
Glenn O
Glenn O
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