| chimchimm5 | 08-17-2006 08:45 PM |
Bringing my street/autox car to rallyx - sway bars
�
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I bought beefier sway bars for both front and back for my 2006 wrx wagon to improve street/autox handling.
Next month, I'll be trying rallyx with a friend for the first time. I don't care about being competitive, because I'm a noob to autox/rallyx; but I am curious as to what to expect from putting the bigger bars on my car and taking it rallyx'ing.
I know that the bigger bars reduce the independence of the suspension, which is my concern. Are the bigger bars going to make me all squirrely on the dirt?
Should I wait until the rallyx next month before installing the bigger bars (ie keep the stock ones on) to enjoy the rallyx experience more? I'll wait if it means more fun with a stock setup than squirely with the bigger bars.
(I have stock spring/struts).
Next month, I'll be trying rallyx with a friend for the first time. I don't care about being competitive, because I'm a noob to autox/rallyx; but I am curious as to what to expect from putting the bigger bars on my car and taking it rallyx'ing.
I know that the bigger bars reduce the independence of the suspension, which is my concern. Are the bigger bars going to make me all squirrely on the dirt?
Should I wait until the rallyx next month before installing the bigger bars (ie keep the stock ones on) to enjoy the rallyx experience more? I'll wait if it means more fun with a stock setup than squirely with the bigger bars.
(I have stock spring/struts).
| Fred | 08-17-2006 11:11 PM |
Depends on what the surface is like as to what the swaybars will do for or against you. Grip level, ruts, etc. But we usually rut things up at our events and we've had people with big bars on WRXes do well, and not break anything (like mounts or endlinks). How beefy is "beefier" - is it 22mm or 27mm? (big difference)
I'd be more worried about those super-short & rolled-under sidewalls on the stock tires. Hope you have access to something 16" or smaller with a taller sidewall...
I'd be more worried about those super-short & rolled-under sidewalls on the stock tires. Hope you have access to something 16" or smaller with a taller sidewall...
| chimchimm5 | 08-18-2006 02:31 AM |
The bars are 22mm...
So how come taller sidewalls are better? Since it's dirt, won't my tires roll over less because of less traction?
So how come taller sidewalls are better? Since it's dirt, won't my tires roll over less because of less traction?
| greg donovan | 08-18-2006 09:25 AM |
[QUOTE=chimchimm5]The bars are 22mm...
So how come taller sidewalls are better? Since it's dirt, won't my tires roll over less because of less traction?[/QUOTE]
taller sidewall absorbs some of the beating the tire will take from the ruts and bumps.
a shorter sidewall could pop a bead easier than a tire w/a taller sidewall.
either way make sure you up the tire pressure a little bit. and have a few more pounds in the rear than in the front to loosen up the back of the car.
and you should go ahead and swap the rear bar. but maybe wait on the front one. the car will be a bit more fun on the dirt that way.
are you on stock springs?
So how come taller sidewalls are better? Since it's dirt, won't my tires roll over less because of less traction?[/QUOTE]
taller sidewall absorbs some of the beating the tire will take from the ruts and bumps.
a shorter sidewall could pop a bead easier than a tire w/a taller sidewall.
either way make sure you up the tire pressure a little bit. and have a few more pounds in the rear than in the front to loosen up the back of the car.
and you should go ahead and swap the rear bar. but maybe wait on the front one. the car will be a bit more fun on the dirt that way.
are you on stock springs?
| chimchimm5 | 08-18-2006 01:16 PM |
[QUOTE=greg donovan]taller sidewall absorbs some of the beating the tire will take from the ruts and bumps.
a shorter sidewall could pop a bead easier than a tire w/a taller sidewall.
either way make sure you up the tire pressure a little bit. and have a few more pounds in the rear than in the front to loosen up the back of the car.
and you should go ahead and swap the rear bar. but maybe wait on the front one. the car will be a bit more fun on the dirt that way.
are you on stock springs?[/QUOTE]
Ah, I see. well, as of now, I don't have any 16" rims. I'll be doing this once this entire year so I'm not going to buy an extra set just for it. So, I guess as long as I'm not in any danger, I'm going to have to run the 17's.
As for the bars, I REALLY want the front one in for the street. My concern (this thread) is what kind of effects that will have on the rallyx; although the rallyx takes lesser priority as far as setup goes than the street/autox setup.
So what I'm hearing is that I want to setup the car so it can rotate better (slide the rear out more). That means I'm going to want to put both bars on: front for the street (daily driver) and rear for the rallyx (tail happy fun fun).
Both bars are the adjustable kind (the rear with 3 adj settings). Yeah, I'm on stock spring/struts.
a shorter sidewall could pop a bead easier than a tire w/a taller sidewall.
either way make sure you up the tire pressure a little bit. and have a few more pounds in the rear than in the front to loosen up the back of the car.
and you should go ahead and swap the rear bar. but maybe wait on the front one. the car will be a bit more fun on the dirt that way.
are you on stock springs?[/QUOTE]
Ah, I see. well, as of now, I don't have any 16" rims. I'll be doing this once this entire year so I'm not going to buy an extra set just for it. So, I guess as long as I'm not in any danger, I'm going to have to run the 17's.
As for the bars, I REALLY want the front one in for the street. My concern (this thread) is what kind of effects that will have on the rallyx; although the rallyx takes lesser priority as far as setup goes than the street/autox setup.
So what I'm hearing is that I want to setup the car so it can rotate better (slide the rear out more). That means I'm going to want to put both bars on: front for the street (daily driver) and rear for the rallyx (tail happy fun fun).
Both bars are the adjustable kind (the rear with 3 adj settings). Yeah, I'm on stock spring/struts.
| RB5 Clone | 08-18-2006 06:18 PM |
don't obsess about stuff you don't know you don't know yet.
just go and drive like a hooligan and have fun. if you like rallyX and find you are good at it, then you can get all analytical.
otherwise, pump up the tires to 45 psi (helps keep bead from rolling) and don't give it full throttle at high steering angles (eats driveshafts and other expensive bits). pay attention to the better drivers, try to ride with somebody who knows what they are doing. you may find it faster overall just to stay in 1st gear, depending on how tight the course is.
Dave G
just go and drive like a hooligan and have fun. if you like rallyX and find you are good at it, then you can get all analytical.
otherwise, pump up the tires to 45 psi (helps keep bead from rolling) and don't give it full throttle at high steering angles (eats driveshafts and other expensive bits). pay attention to the better drivers, try to ride with somebody who knows what they are doing. you may find it faster overall just to stay in 1st gear, depending on how tight the course is.
Dave G
| Fred | 08-19-2006 08:52 AM |
22mm isn't enough of a change to matter. I had 22mm bars on my WRX wagon and rallyxed it several times. So go ahead and change both bars and don't worry about it at all.
If the course is rutted and you drive like a noob, you WILL stuff dirt in the bead of the stock tires. If you don't have access to taller sidewalls, remember to pump up the tires, and straighten the front wheels and/or slow down as you cross ruts.
Be sure to get somebody who's good at it to ride with you and help you out. There are all kinds of little things they can point out that will help you if you've never done it before.
If the course is rutted and you drive like a noob, you WILL stuff dirt in the bead of the stock tires. If you don't have access to taller sidewalls, remember to pump up the tires, and straighten the front wheels and/or slow down as you cross ruts.
Be sure to get somebody who's good at it to ride with you and help you out. There are all kinds of little things they can point out that will help you if you've never done it before.
| chimchimm5 | 08-19-2006 06:08 PM |
Thanks for the responses. Ok. I'll go with my setup and not worry about it... except next question. I have two sets of wheels/tires. Which should I use?
- stock 17" WRX wheels with stock RE92 215/45/17 (front pumped to 45 psi)
- kosei 17x7 K1 TS wheels with Goodyear F1 GS D3 215/45/17.
- stock 17" WRX wheels with stock RE92 215/45/17 (front pumped to 45 psi)
- kosei 17x7 K1 TS wheels with Goodyear F1 GS D3 215/45/17.
| Sideshowbob | 08-19-2006 08:54 PM |
Is that a serious question?
Obv the RE92's
Obv the RE92's
| greg donovan | 08-20-2006 01:47 AM |
yeah you wanna use the RE92s. they are actually a pretty decent tire for rallyx.
| chimchimm5 | 08-20-2006 02:06 AM |
[QUOTE=Sideshowbob]Is that a serious question?
Obv the RE92's[/QUOTE]
Shamefully, yeah it was serious. I know so little about rally.
I was suspecting the RE92's, so I'm not stupid, just a noob.
Obv the RE92's[/QUOTE]
Shamefully, yeah it was serious. I know so little about rally.
I was suspecting the RE92's, so I'm not stupid, just a noob.
| chimchimm5 | 08-20-2006 02:10 AM |
[QUOTE=RB5 Clone]otherwise, pump up the tires to 45 psi (helps keep bead from rolling) and don't give it full throttle at high steering angles (eats driveshafts and other expensive bits). pay attention to the better drivers, try to ride with somebody who knows what they are doing. you may find it faster overall just to stay in 1st gear, depending on how tight the course is.
Dave G[/QUOTE]
As for the throttle, am I supposed to be spinning the tires?
I'm a serious noob at rally. I see the rally drivers drifting through corners... why is that faster than gripping through them? Drifting is slow on road, but why is it better in the dirt?
Maybe I need a rallyx faq?
Dave G[/QUOTE]
As for the throttle, am I supposed to be spinning the tires?
I'm a serious noob at rally. I see the rally drivers drifting through corners... why is that faster than gripping through them? Drifting is slow on road, but why is it better in the dirt?
Maybe I need a rallyx faq?
| greg donovan | 08-20-2006 02:22 AM |
[QUOTE=chimchimm5]As for the throttle, am I supposed to be spinning the tires?
I'm a serious noob at rally. I see the rally drivers drifting through corners... why is that faster than gripping through them? Drifting is slow on road, but why is it better in the dirt?
Maybe I need a rallyx faq?[/QUOTE]
you dont want to be spinning the tires too much. if it is muddy and you are spinning the tires back off the throttle and give the tires a chance to get some traction.
and sometimes lugging in 2nd is faster on corner exit than spinning in first.
drifting still isnt the fastest. but it is the most fun. and sometimes you want to drift so that you are set up better for the next coner. sliding around a hairpin is a glorious feeling. and over time you will figure out just the right inputs so you really wont be that much slower on corner exit.
drifting is one way to scrub speed as well.
dont worry about it for rally cross just yet.
the best way to learn is to do it and watch others. dont go in the first run group if you can. and go early in your run group. ride along w/someone if you can.
approach it just like you did your dirst autocross and you will be fine. remember to use as much of the course as possible.
and for goodness sake dont forget to have fun.
I'm a serious noob at rally. I see the rally drivers drifting through corners... why is that faster than gripping through them? Drifting is slow on road, but why is it better in the dirt?
Maybe I need a rallyx faq?[/QUOTE]
you dont want to be spinning the tires too much. if it is muddy and you are spinning the tires back off the throttle and give the tires a chance to get some traction.
and sometimes lugging in 2nd is faster on corner exit than spinning in first.
drifting still isnt the fastest. but it is the most fun. and sometimes you want to drift so that you are set up better for the next coner. sliding around a hairpin is a glorious feeling. and over time you will figure out just the right inputs so you really wont be that much slower on corner exit.
drifting is one way to scrub speed as well.
dont worry about it for rally cross just yet.
the best way to learn is to do it and watch others. dont go in the first run group if you can. and go early in your run group. ride along w/someone if you can.
approach it just like you did your dirst autocross and you will be fine. remember to use as much of the course as possible.
and for goodness sake dont forget to have fun.
| Fred | 08-20-2006 03:48 PM |
re: rallyx faq... this is something I posted to the THSCC rallycross forum before our school a couple of weekends ago:
[quote]Adding this so that people will have something to study and discuss at the upcoming school:
Walk the course a LOT (and know it � don�t just walk around carrying on a conversation with somebody or looking at the pretty flowers). If the course designers need help with setup, be there to help. Make mental notes about where you have to be careful, where you can really push it, where it will probably get rutted, and any other useful things that might help later, when you�re actually running the course.
If the course is going to rut pretty quickly, line up at the front; if there�s mud, cut grass or something else that hinders grip that will disappear as the cars cycle through, line up at the back. You may have to hear some complaints about it later from those who were at the other end of the line, but if they really wanted to win they�d be there right in front of or behind YOU. So just smile and nod.
Be careful (but not SLOW!) on the first run, then attack on the next run, using your experiences from the first run to determine where to go faster. Compare your times to those of your competition to determine whether you can be safe on the runs that follow, or you need to pull out all the stops for at least a few runs. It�s much less stressful to get an advantage on the first course and protect it on the second than to have to come from behind to win.
Don�t hit cones! Autocrossers sometimes need to drive within an inch of the important cones to win; rallycrossers need to stay away from those cones, because they don�t get �throw-away� runs. Try to be within a foot or so of the important cones � it�s very easy to hook a rut or catch traction in the wrong place, and feel the car suddenly head right for the cone. If you run it over, that�s 2 seconds. If you lift or brake and steer away from it, that�s a time penalty, too.
Don�t just look ahead, THINK AHEAD. Remember the mental notes you made while walking the course and review them as you come up on the corners they apply to. But definitely look ahead as you enter a corner � you may see something that will require you to change the line you had planned to take, or maybe just a change in speed.
Remember that at least 75% of the people out there will either not know what they�re doing, not care what they�re doing because they�re just there for fun, or just keep making careless mistakes. So you�ll have to drive around their mistakes. The most common mistake people make is entering a corner too fast or turning late and understeering all the way through it. This will kill their times, and it will damage the corner with front tire ruts. Sometimes, if the corner is big enough, there will be ruts one or two car widths from the inside cones, with lots of loose dirt on the outside of that. In this case, you can just slow down early and drive on the undamaged, grippy area next to the cones to minimize distance. Sometimes the corner will be tighter, and there will be deep ruts to deal with. In this case there�s usually no room to go inside, so if you�re confident you won�t break something on the bottom of the car or debead a tire, you just have to slow down and drive in the ruts. Don�t bounce the car around, though, because if the tires are off the ground you can�t use them to accelerate. (Duh.) And if you can keep the tires out of the bottom of the ruts by driving slightly up on the outside of the ruts, do that. Sometimes you can then late apex the corner by letting the car come off the �banking� and going diagonally across the ruts instead of following them through where the hacks understeered out of the corner. If the corner opens onto a long �straight� and there�s not a huge amount of loose dirt or rough terrain on the outside, it may be better to go slightly deeper into the corner, around the ruts, and then use a really late apex to be at full throttle earlier so that you make better time on the straight. This works better with AWD cars, but can work well with 2WD cars if you do it right. Just remember that you will probably have to cross the ruts at the exit to make this work.
Get the car turned early! The understeer problem mentioned above is a great way to debead a tire, a great way to make sure you waste as much time as you can while in a corner, and a great way to come out of a corner at the slowest speed possible. If you turn the car early, you�ll set yourself up to hit the next corner at a good speed, and if there are several corners linked together that get progressively faster (which is ALWAYS the case on the courses I design), you�ll be flying when you come out of the last corner. If you understeer through every corner in the sequence, guess how fast you�ll be going� (not very).
Sideways is slow. Think about what the tires are doing while you�re counter-steering through a turn in an AWD car. The fronts are pulling you in the right direction, but the rears are just pushing you toward the apex. If you�re in a FWD car, you�re dragging the rear tires and slowing the car. If you�re in a RWD car, the fronts are just rolling along, while the rears are pushing you toward the apex and momentum is carrying you through the corner. Try to keep all the driven wheels pointing in the general direction you want to go. This will mean that you turn early, center the steering wheel and accelerate. If you throw the car into a slight drift, all you have to do to change direction is lift, turn in the new direction and then get back on the gas. You should be making very small steering corrections if you�re making any. If you�re constantly turning the steering wheel back and forth at huge angles, you�re not helping yourself any.
Don�t hit the ruts or rough spots too hard if your car can't take it � try to minimize the impact by braking a little and/or using a diagonal crossing. If you break the car you won�t win, and you won�t be having fun as you�re pushing or towing it off the course. You may lose a little time, but unless the competition is an alien, you can make it up somewhere else. And if you hit the rough spots too hard and make the tires come off the ground, you can't use them to accelerate, so slower will be faster anyway.
That's all I have for now...[/quote]
and some stuff I typed up on car setup for rallyx:
Car setup for rallycross
Suspension travel� More travel is better, until your CG gets too high. Stock Subaru STi suspension has around 6-7 inches of travel, and has felt great on every course I�ve run.
Damping� If your dampers are worn out, you�re going to be oscillating from full bump to full droop all over the course. Get some fresh dampers, but not something that�s built for tarmac. (Konis aren�t designed for rallycross, they�re made for relatively smooth tarmac � I know this from experience.) Extremely stiff dampers are going to make the car bounce around, so use something that keeps the suspension from oscillating on the faster stuff, but doesn�t make it too bouncy on the slower stuff.
Springs� Soft springs can allow the car to bottom out on big bumps, really stiff springs won�t allow enough travel. Use something medium-stiff. For Subarus, that would mean something like the stock STi springs. And DON�T USE LOWERING SPRINGS!!!!!
Bushings� Worn out bushings can break, cause too much movement & affect handling, etc. and should be replaced.
Engine/drivetrain� Handling is way more important than a little extra power, but if your engine is dying or your drivetrain is busted you�re not going to get very far. Make sure everything is working. Stiffer engine and transmission mounts are a good thing.
Brakes� The brakes should be able to slow you down while on course, and stop you after the finish. Make sure they�re capable of that. Disable the ABS.
Seats� Need to be supportive and comfortable.
Restraints� Should hold you in place while the course tries to throw you around. CG Lock works great. Don�t install shoulder harnesses without a roll bar.
Anti-roll bars� Aren�t very important as long as they aren�t so big that they prevent your suspension from moving independently.
Weight� Decrease grip, and weight really makes a difference. The less the car weighs, the better.
Underbody protection� Isn�t usually needed at rallycrosses, but you should look under your car and see if there�s anything that looks like it might be important, then if necessary, take steps to keep it from being ripped off. : )
Tires� Are the most important thing on the car. Different surfaces require different tread pattern and compound, so I�ll just say that for loose dirt you need tires that work well in loose dirt.
As far as general car behavior, the easier the car is to drive the more consistent you�ll be at making it do what you want it to do. If my 2.5RS was any easier to drive, I could sit in the shade and watch it run the course by itself.
[quote]Adding this so that people will have something to study and discuss at the upcoming school:
Walk the course a LOT (and know it � don�t just walk around carrying on a conversation with somebody or looking at the pretty flowers). If the course designers need help with setup, be there to help. Make mental notes about where you have to be careful, where you can really push it, where it will probably get rutted, and any other useful things that might help later, when you�re actually running the course.
If the course is going to rut pretty quickly, line up at the front; if there�s mud, cut grass or something else that hinders grip that will disappear as the cars cycle through, line up at the back. You may have to hear some complaints about it later from those who were at the other end of the line, but if they really wanted to win they�d be there right in front of or behind YOU. So just smile and nod.
Be careful (but not SLOW!) on the first run, then attack on the next run, using your experiences from the first run to determine where to go faster. Compare your times to those of your competition to determine whether you can be safe on the runs that follow, or you need to pull out all the stops for at least a few runs. It�s much less stressful to get an advantage on the first course and protect it on the second than to have to come from behind to win.
Don�t hit cones! Autocrossers sometimes need to drive within an inch of the important cones to win; rallycrossers need to stay away from those cones, because they don�t get �throw-away� runs. Try to be within a foot or so of the important cones � it�s very easy to hook a rut or catch traction in the wrong place, and feel the car suddenly head right for the cone. If you run it over, that�s 2 seconds. If you lift or brake and steer away from it, that�s a time penalty, too.
Don�t just look ahead, THINK AHEAD. Remember the mental notes you made while walking the course and review them as you come up on the corners they apply to. But definitely look ahead as you enter a corner � you may see something that will require you to change the line you had planned to take, or maybe just a change in speed.
Remember that at least 75% of the people out there will either not know what they�re doing, not care what they�re doing because they�re just there for fun, or just keep making careless mistakes. So you�ll have to drive around their mistakes. The most common mistake people make is entering a corner too fast or turning late and understeering all the way through it. This will kill their times, and it will damage the corner with front tire ruts. Sometimes, if the corner is big enough, there will be ruts one or two car widths from the inside cones, with lots of loose dirt on the outside of that. In this case, you can just slow down early and drive on the undamaged, grippy area next to the cones to minimize distance. Sometimes the corner will be tighter, and there will be deep ruts to deal with. In this case there�s usually no room to go inside, so if you�re confident you won�t break something on the bottom of the car or debead a tire, you just have to slow down and drive in the ruts. Don�t bounce the car around, though, because if the tires are off the ground you can�t use them to accelerate. (Duh.) And if you can keep the tires out of the bottom of the ruts by driving slightly up on the outside of the ruts, do that. Sometimes you can then late apex the corner by letting the car come off the �banking� and going diagonally across the ruts instead of following them through where the hacks understeered out of the corner. If the corner opens onto a long �straight� and there�s not a huge amount of loose dirt or rough terrain on the outside, it may be better to go slightly deeper into the corner, around the ruts, and then use a really late apex to be at full throttle earlier so that you make better time on the straight. This works better with AWD cars, but can work well with 2WD cars if you do it right. Just remember that you will probably have to cross the ruts at the exit to make this work.
Get the car turned early! The understeer problem mentioned above is a great way to debead a tire, a great way to make sure you waste as much time as you can while in a corner, and a great way to come out of a corner at the slowest speed possible. If you turn the car early, you�ll set yourself up to hit the next corner at a good speed, and if there are several corners linked together that get progressively faster (which is ALWAYS the case on the courses I design), you�ll be flying when you come out of the last corner. If you understeer through every corner in the sequence, guess how fast you�ll be going� (not very).
Sideways is slow. Think about what the tires are doing while you�re counter-steering through a turn in an AWD car. The fronts are pulling you in the right direction, but the rears are just pushing you toward the apex. If you�re in a FWD car, you�re dragging the rear tires and slowing the car. If you�re in a RWD car, the fronts are just rolling along, while the rears are pushing you toward the apex and momentum is carrying you through the corner. Try to keep all the driven wheels pointing in the general direction you want to go. This will mean that you turn early, center the steering wheel and accelerate. If you throw the car into a slight drift, all you have to do to change direction is lift, turn in the new direction and then get back on the gas. You should be making very small steering corrections if you�re making any. If you�re constantly turning the steering wheel back and forth at huge angles, you�re not helping yourself any.
Don�t hit the ruts or rough spots too hard if your car can't take it � try to minimize the impact by braking a little and/or using a diagonal crossing. If you break the car you won�t win, and you won�t be having fun as you�re pushing or towing it off the course. You may lose a little time, but unless the competition is an alien, you can make it up somewhere else. And if you hit the rough spots too hard and make the tires come off the ground, you can't use them to accelerate, so slower will be faster anyway.
That's all I have for now...[/quote]
and some stuff I typed up on car setup for rallyx:
Car setup for rallycross
Suspension travel� More travel is better, until your CG gets too high. Stock Subaru STi suspension has around 6-7 inches of travel, and has felt great on every course I�ve run.
Damping� If your dampers are worn out, you�re going to be oscillating from full bump to full droop all over the course. Get some fresh dampers, but not something that�s built for tarmac. (Konis aren�t designed for rallycross, they�re made for relatively smooth tarmac � I know this from experience.) Extremely stiff dampers are going to make the car bounce around, so use something that keeps the suspension from oscillating on the faster stuff, but doesn�t make it too bouncy on the slower stuff.
Springs� Soft springs can allow the car to bottom out on big bumps, really stiff springs won�t allow enough travel. Use something medium-stiff. For Subarus, that would mean something like the stock STi springs. And DON�T USE LOWERING SPRINGS!!!!!
Bushings� Worn out bushings can break, cause too much movement & affect handling, etc. and should be replaced.
Engine/drivetrain� Handling is way more important than a little extra power, but if your engine is dying or your drivetrain is busted you�re not going to get very far. Make sure everything is working. Stiffer engine and transmission mounts are a good thing.
Brakes� The brakes should be able to slow you down while on course, and stop you after the finish. Make sure they�re capable of that. Disable the ABS.
Seats� Need to be supportive and comfortable.
Restraints� Should hold you in place while the course tries to throw you around. CG Lock works great. Don�t install shoulder harnesses without a roll bar.
Anti-roll bars� Aren�t very important as long as they aren�t so big that they prevent your suspension from moving independently.
Weight� Decrease grip, and weight really makes a difference. The less the car weighs, the better.
Underbody protection� Isn�t usually needed at rallycrosses, but you should look under your car and see if there�s anything that looks like it might be important, then if necessary, take steps to keep it from being ripped off. : )
Tires� Are the most important thing on the car. Different surfaces require different tread pattern and compound, so I�ll just say that for loose dirt you need tires that work well in loose dirt.
As far as general car behavior, the easier the car is to drive the more consistent you�ll be at making it do what you want it to do. If my 2.5RS was any easier to drive, I could sit in the shade and watch it run the course by itself.
| Erconcepts | 08-20-2006 05:15 PM |
^---- awesome post. Give yourself a pat on the back for that one. Its nice when someone takes the time to give a thought out answer.
| Fred | 08-20-2006 06:05 PM |
To dowroa and solo2wrx... shut the Hell up. :p :lol:
(this has been a pre-emptive strike)
(this has been a pre-emptive strike)
| fantomrex24 | 08-21-2006 09:11 AM |
solid post fred. btw if your car is driving itself whilst your drinkin your lemondade in the shade then im gettin the hell outta dodge! lol. but awesome post man. :banana: damn thats a happy more informed banana!
late
brad
late
brad
| mykrrrr | 08-22-2006 10:17 PM |
I'd say disconnect the endlinks to get more suspension travel and let it do what it's supposed to.
Drive smooth. Let the car do the work for you. Watch for ruts that cand develop and if you feel the course is unsafe, point it out to the safety steward or event chairperson. Drink lots of fluid (primarily water) and have fun.
Drive smooth. Let the car do the work for you. Watch for ruts that cand develop and if you feel the course is unsafe, point it out to the safety steward or event chairperson. Drink lots of fluid (primarily water) and have fun.
| Beanboy | 08-23-2006 12:30 PM |
Hmm, I thought taller sidewall tires allowed the tire to rollover and if a rut was hit, be more prone to popping a bead?
At least that's what I garnered from my first rallycross where the WRX and Saab folks had bead issues, where the LGT/STI folks didn't.
At least that's what I garnered from my first rallycross where the WRX and Saab folks had bead issues, where the LGT/STI folks didn't.
| Fred | 08-23-2006 12:40 PM |
Tire choice and driving style have a big impact on whether dirt gets stuffed into the bead. Maybe the WRX and Saab guys had something similar to Kumho ASXes and drove as if they were on rally tires?
| civicstealth | 08-29-2006 03:51 PM |
Great post, just what I was looking for and my search found it!
Two additional questions:
1. Skidpads/differential protector--worth the cost and weight?
2. Fred--I see you have an 05 RS2.5 (I have an 06 RS now). Just curious as to why the STi is up for sale? Sounds like you're real satisified with the RS driving itself!
Thanks!
Two additional questions:
1. Skidpads/differential protector--worth the cost and weight?
2. Fred--I see you have an 05 RS2.5 (I have an 06 RS now). Just curious as to why the STi is up for sale? Sounds like you're real satisified with the RS driving itself!
Thanks!
| solo2wrx | 08-29-2006 05:33 PM |
[QUOTE=civicstealth;15062395]Great post, just what I was looking for and my search found it!
Two additional questions:
1. Skidpads/differential protector--worth the cost and weight?
[/QUOTE]
Skidplates don't add that much weight to your car and yes they are worth the cost. I made my own and the one that is on Dowroa's RS. They are worth the cost and weight. Dow ran over a small tree while we were up in Virginia and the plate didn't budge, the tree did.
Two additional questions:
1. Skidpads/differential protector--worth the cost and weight?
[/QUOTE]
Skidplates don't add that much weight to your car and yes they are worth the cost. I made my own and the one that is on Dowroa's RS. They are worth the cost and weight. Dow ran over a small tree while we were up in Virginia and the plate didn't budge, the tree did.
| Fred | 08-29-2006 06:05 PM |
I use a skidplate on my [B]2000[/B] 2.5RS, but no diff protector. I got my plate really cheap, so it's definitely worth the expense.
The STi is for sale because I'm back in school, I want to get rid of the STi payment, and the RS > STi for what I want to do. It's a great car all-around, and a lot of fun on tarmac and on dirt, but the RS owns it on a rallyx course for less than half the price. When I sell the STi and get out of school/ get a job again, I'm probably going to get another RS sedan and have two RSes again.
The STi is for sale because I'm back in school, I want to get rid of the STi payment, and the RS > STi for what I want to do. It's a great car all-around, and a lot of fun on tarmac and on dirt, but the RS owns it on a rallyx course for less than half the price. When I sell the STi and get out of school/ get a job again, I'm probably going to get another RS sedan and have two RSes again.
| davis10 | 08-29-2006 07:35 PM |
From what Ive heard a lot of the rally folks run no sway bar up front and a very small or no sway bar in the back too. skidplates are a good thing to have and definatly would remove any expensive front lips
| civicstealth | 09-05-2006 10:50 PM |
Skidplates it is then. Any recommendations on a vendor?
Glad to hear the RS is a good machine for this type of activity, since I just bought one. I'm just getting through the break-in period on my RS, so I have not gotten on it too much, but I have done a couple gravel/windy roads in W.Va. and I was pretty impressed with the suspension.
Any stickies or other good threads on these subjects you can think of?
Fred--Good luck in school. I'm back myself now but I'm taking this semester off.:devil:
Glad to hear the RS is a good machine for this type of activity, since I just bought one. I'm just getting through the break-in period on my RS, so I have not gotten on it too much, but I have done a couple gravel/windy roads in W.Va. and I was pretty impressed with the suspension.
Any stickies or other good threads on these subjects you can think of?
Fred--Good luck in school. I'm back myself now but I'm taking this semester off.:devil:
| ROC pit-bull | 09-06-2006 04:40 AM |
only one name when it comes to skid plates and that primitive.
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