| robmarch | 06-24-2004 08:55 AM |
Bridgestone RE070 STi Tire pressures for AutoX (I searched)
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I'm looking for expert opinions on what a good hot tire pressure is for the bone-stock STi (04) on stock tires.
In the past I've run 42F 36R, with decent results. If anyone has a better recommendation, I'm very interested. I'm hoping to get 2 autocrosses in this weekend to test them out.
ps...I searched and there were a bunch of general recommendations, which I've read a ton of (here and on other forums), and that's why I targeted 42F 36R. If you guys (and ladies) have found better pressures, I'd love to hear your advice. What setting you use your DCCD in would be helpful too, if that changes your bias. I've been running it full rear to try to make the car more predictable, but may experiment with auto mode this weekend too.
Thanks:)
In the past I've run 42F 36R, with decent results. If anyone has a better recommendation, I'm very interested. I'm hoping to get 2 autocrosses in this weekend to test them out.
ps...I searched and there were a bunch of general recommendations, which I've read a ton of (here and on other forums), and that's why I targeted 42F 36R. If you guys (and ladies) have found better pressures, I'd love to hear your advice. What setting you use your DCCD in would be helpful too, if that changes your bias. I've been running it full rear to try to make the car more predictable, but may experiment with auto mode this weekend too.
Thanks:)
| del105 | 06-24-2004 09:12 AM |
Hot tire pressure i'd be looking to get about 53psi front 58psi rear depending on how you want your car to handle I might even go higher if it was wet out. When I was stock I would run cold pressure of 49psi front 55psi rear. I always run auto on te DCCD for auto-x I done plenty of DCCD experimenting for auto-x and auto is always faster.
| MNbiker | 06-24-2004 09:12 AM |
Tire pressures are going to depend a bit on the surface, so I'll qualify this by saying the pressures are what we found to work well on a concrete lot with relatively high levels of traction.
front - 46-48psi
rear - 40-44psi
With anything less, we were getting too much rollover. We were driving pretty hard, and the lot had lots of traction, so your results may vary. ;) Note: The car is box stock, but has been properly aligned with maximum negative front camber.
As for the DCCD, the fast guys claim Auto mode is fastest, once you get used to it. (I agree rear bias FEELS better.)
-Steve
front - 46-48psi
rear - 40-44psi
With anything less, we were getting too much rollover. We were driving pretty hard, and the lot had lots of traction, so your results may vary. ;) Note: The car is box stock, but has been properly aligned with maximum negative front camber.
As for the DCCD, the fast guys claim Auto mode is fastest, once you get used to it. (I agree rear bias FEELS better.)
-Steve
| MNbiker | 06-24-2004 09:17 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by del105 [/i]
[B]I might even go higher if it was wet out.[/B][/QUOTE]
:huh:
Typically, you LOWER tire pressures as traction decreases. Why would you suggest HIGHER pressures for the wet?
-Steve
[B]I might even go higher if it was wet out.[/B][/QUOTE]
:huh:
Typically, you LOWER tire pressures as traction decreases. Why would you suggest HIGHER pressures for the wet?
-Steve
| del105 | 06-24-2004 09:21 AM |
I find it helps move the water out of the way a little better and you get more contact with the ground. I only say this because of personal experimentation and what has worked for me in the past.
| Midnight_Gold | 06-24-2004 09:24 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by MNbiker[/i]
[B]As for the DCCD, the fast guys claim Auto mode is fastest, once you get used to it. (I agree rear bias FEELS better.)
[/B][/QUOTE]
I'm telling you... teh computer is smarter than you... it really is... much faster too.. our times sucked when we were playing around with the settings.. they were MUCH better when we were using auto...
It's a cool little gadget... but I only use it when I'm playing around on a snow-topped parking lot :D
[B]As for the DCCD, the fast guys claim Auto mode is fastest, once you get used to it. (I agree rear bias FEELS better.)
[/B][/QUOTE]
I'm telling you... teh computer is smarter than you... it really is... much faster too.. our times sucked when we were playing around with the settings.. they were MUCH better when we were using auto...
It's a cool little gadget... but I only use it when I'm playing around on a snow-topped parking lot :D
| ANZAC_1915 | 06-24-2004 10:23 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Midnight_Gold [/i]
[B]I'm telling you... teh computer is smarter than you... it really is... much faster too.. our times sucked when we were playing around with the settings.. they were MUCH better when we were using auto...
It's a cool little gadget... but I only use it when I'm playing around on a snow-topped parking lot :D [/B][/QUOTE]
In most cases, on pavement, it is.
BTW re "rear bias" while it is true that having it fully open will provide more bias to the rear by default, you can wind up spinning both front or both back tires with the diff open. It is a subtle distinction. It just happens that by virtue of the default bias and the diff open the rears [i]usually[/i] spin first.
I did some big diff open donuts on the ice up north, sort of like Caprice "broadies". I tried to then lock the diff and go into a pirouette but it never worked out. Doing diff locked pirouettes from a standstill worked out fine though.
Glenn
[B]I'm telling you... teh computer is smarter than you... it really is... much faster too.. our times sucked when we were playing around with the settings.. they were MUCH better when we were using auto...
It's a cool little gadget... but I only use it when I'm playing around on a snow-topped parking lot :D [/B][/QUOTE]
In most cases, on pavement, it is.
BTW re "rear bias" while it is true that having it fully open will provide more bias to the rear by default, you can wind up spinning both front or both back tires with the diff open. It is a subtle distinction. It just happens that by virtue of the default bias and the diff open the rears [i]usually[/i] spin first.
I did some big diff open donuts on the ice up north, sort of like Caprice "broadies". I tried to then lock the diff and go into a pirouette but it never worked out. Doing diff locked pirouettes from a standstill worked out fine though.
Glenn
| ANZAC_1915 | 06-24-2004 10:24 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by del105 [/i]
[B]Hot tire pressure i'd be looking to get about 53psi front 58psi rear depending on how you want your car to handle I might even go higher if it was wet out. When I was stock I would run cold pressure of 49psi front 55psi rear. I always run auto on te DCCD for auto-x I done plenty of DCCD experimenting for auto-x and auto is always faster. [/B][/QUOTE]
At these pressures you will be crowning the tires and losing traction. I wouldn't go over 48 or so.
[B]Hot tire pressure i'd be looking to get about 53psi front 58psi rear depending on how you want your car to handle I might even go higher if it was wet out. When I was stock I would run cold pressure of 49psi front 55psi rear. I always run auto on te DCCD for auto-x I done plenty of DCCD experimenting for auto-x and auto is always faster. [/B][/QUOTE]
At these pressures you will be crowning the tires and losing traction. I wouldn't go over 48 or so.
| Midnight_Gold | 06-24-2004 10:31 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Glenn Wallace[/i]
[B] Doing diff locked pirouettes from a standstill worked out fine though.
Glenn [/B][/QUOTE]
Those are fun, aren't they? :lol:
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Glenn Wallace[/i]
[B] At these pressures you will be crowning the tires and losing traction. I wouldn't go over 48 or so. [/B][/QUOTE]
Believe it or not, I had better luck (traction wise) in the low to mid 50's... granted.. my stockers didn't last long.. but damn did that car rotate!
- Miranda
[B] Doing diff locked pirouettes from a standstill worked out fine though.
Glenn [/B][/QUOTE]
Those are fun, aren't they? :lol:
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Glenn Wallace[/i]
[B] At these pressures you will be crowning the tires and losing traction. I wouldn't go over 48 or so. [/B][/QUOTE]
Believe it or not, I had better luck (traction wise) in the low to mid 50's... granted.. my stockers didn't last long.. but damn did that car rotate!
- Miranda
| DrBiggly | 06-24-2004 10:51 AM |
robmarch,
It's alright man I know the search engine here sucks. Sometimes you'll get results, sometimes you want. Here is what you have to do in order to get decent results.
Go to google, and type in:
site:forums.nasioc.com and then your search query
This will produce better results than our internal search engine. Spiffy eh?
It's alright man I know the search engine here sucks. Sometimes you'll get results, sometimes you want. Here is what you have to do in order to get decent results.
Go to google, and type in:
site:forums.nasioc.com and then your search query
This will produce better results than our internal search engine. Spiffy eh?
| del105 | 06-24-2004 11:09 AM |
My stockers didn't last long either but I always got much better results when they where in the 50's hot.
| robmarch | 06-24-2004 09:55 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by del105 [/i]
[B]Hot tire pressure i'd be looking to get about 53psi front 58psi rear depending on how you want your car to handle I might even go higher if it was wet out. When I was stock I would run cold pressure of 49psi front 55psi rear. I always run auto on te DCCD for auto-x I done plenty of DCCD experimenting for auto-x and auto is always faster. [/B][/QUOTE]
were you trying to baloon the rears to get more rotation?
if so, it sounds like they may start to balloon around 48-50. This is a great data point. I think I'll try to keep the fronts below 50 to maximize front grip.
I guess I can either balloon the rears or run them about 6 psi below the fronts to get some rotation.
I'll try the google search trick too, thanks !
[B]Hot tire pressure i'd be looking to get about 53psi front 58psi rear depending on how you want your car to handle I might even go higher if it was wet out. When I was stock I would run cold pressure of 49psi front 55psi rear. I always run auto on te DCCD for auto-x I done plenty of DCCD experimenting for auto-x and auto is always faster. [/B][/QUOTE]
were you trying to baloon the rears to get more rotation?
if so, it sounds like they may start to balloon around 48-50. This is a great data point. I think I'll try to keep the fronts below 50 to maximize front grip.
I guess I can either balloon the rears or run them about 6 psi below the fronts to get some rotation.
I'll try the google search trick too, thanks !
| robmarch | 06-27-2004 06:22 PM |
update:
I went with 42F 36R to start and was very happy, so I kept bleeding them back to that pressure.
This pressure kept the marks above the triangles on the tread, and the only understeer I felt was when I entered too hot.
I think it's a good starting point for novices, if anyone is looking for that info.
I went with 42F 36R to start and was very happy, so I kept bleeding them back to that pressure.
This pressure kept the marks above the triangles on the tread, and the only understeer I felt was when I entered too hot.
I think it's a good starting point for novices, if anyone is looking for that info.
| wm07 | 06-27-2004 08:48 PM |
I too run 48F 42R and the wear in the front is just above the triangles. I will try 48F 52R in the next event to see if it feel better... but I know I will be on Azenis very very soon. :)
| makofoto | 06-28-2004 01:07 AM |
My buddy starts at 48/48 ... they usually go up about 2 PSI per run ... if he has time ... he bleeds back to 48/48 ... but 50/50 also works well ... he's been pretty successful ... had two 1st places at the recent 2 day Lonepine High Speed Time Trails ... and a 2nd place in his class - SK1 - at a recent L.A. area Championship event
| ANZAC_1915 | 06-28-2004 02:56 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by robmarch [/i]
[B]update:
I went with 42F 36R to start and was very happy, so I kept bleeding them back to that pressure.
This pressure kept the marks above the triangles on the tread, and the only understeer I felt was when I entered too hot.
I think it's a good starting point for novices, if anyone is looking for that info. [/B][/QUOTE]
This sounds like a great starting point. You want to keep the 6 PSI F-R difference if you can.
[B]update:
I went with 42F 36R to start and was very happy, so I kept bleeding them back to that pressure.
This pressure kept the marks above the triangles on the tread, and the only understeer I felt was when I entered too hot.
I think it's a good starting point for novices, if anyone is looking for that info. [/B][/QUOTE]
This sounds like a great starting point. You want to keep the 6 PSI F-R difference if you can.
| subrew2 | 06-28-2004 08:16 AM |
I've pretty much settled on 44F and 40-42R for the stock Bridgestone tires. I am not having problems getting the rear loose on entry or exit. But I've got the max negative front camber and a tick of rear toe-out in the back, so it rotates fairly easy.
Chris H.
[url]www.subrew.com[/url]
Chris H.
[url]www.subrew.com[/url]
| robmarch | 06-28-2004 08:28 AM |
anyone here run the 070's and the Azenis and have any opinions on how they compare?
I may try 44F 38R next time to see how it compares.
I may try 44F 38R next time to see how it compares.
| subrew2 | 06-28-2004 11:22 AM |
I really like the 070s. They need higher pressures than the Azenis, but i think overall grip is very similar. I think the 070s have a broader temp range too. I've had not had problems with them overheating, like I've had with Azenis.
I've got 10,000 miles on my 070s, and about 4 autocrosses. Still quite a bit fo tread, so they are wearing better than the Azenis I was used to.
Chris H.
[url]www.subrew.com[/url]
I've got 10,000 miles on my 070s, and about 4 autocrosses. Still quite a bit fo tread, so they are wearing better than the Azenis I was used to.
Chris H.
[url]www.subrew.com[/url]
| MNbiker | 06-28-2004 11:32 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by robmarch [/i]
[B]anyone here run the 070's and the Azenis and have any opinions on how they compare?
[/B][/QUOTE]
I've run them both in a back-to-back comparison. Different cars, but same course, temp, etc.
Bottom line - I like them both. The Azenis feel a bit more precise, but grip levels seem pretty comparable - at least in dry 70 degree weather. The 070's do need a bit more air pressure.
-Steve
[B]anyone here run the 070's and the Azenis and have any opinions on how they compare?
[/B][/QUOTE]
I've run them both in a back-to-back comparison. Different cars, but same course, temp, etc.
Bottom line - I like them both. The Azenis feel a bit more precise, but grip levels seem pretty comparable - at least in dry 70 degree weather. The 070's do need a bit more air pressure.
-Steve
| wrrrx | 06-29-2004 10:18 AM |
Wow- now I'm thinking I should yank my Victo's and give the Potenzas another try! (We have a guy that shows up just once in awhile and wins SM each time.. on the stockers- stock CAR too, except for springs!! :eek: )
I gotta figure out where to buy some driving talent.... :lol:
BTW- I heartily agree w/ the comments regarding the DCCD. Don't mess with it- leave it on Auto. Each time I've tried manual mode at an AutoX, it's hurt me time-wise. (RallyX different story).
Russ R
I gotta figure out where to buy some driving talent.... :lol:
BTW- I heartily agree w/ the comments regarding the DCCD. Don't mess with it- leave it on Auto. Each time I've tried manual mode at an AutoX, it's hurt me time-wise. (RallyX different story).
Russ R
| AndyRoo | 06-29-2004 10:23 AM |
how do you set the DCCD for RallyX?
sorry for threadjack.
sorry for threadjack.
| subrew2 | 06-29-2004 10:30 AM |
I showed up at an event last month at PIR. I drove in the PAX class though. This was literally the day before I started driving to VT.
Chris H.
[url]www.subrew.com[/url]
Chris H.
[url]www.subrew.com[/url]
| DrBiggly | 06-29-2004 10:33 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by AndyRoo[/i]
[B] how do you set the DCCD for RallyX?
sorry for threadjack. [/B][/QUOTE]
You could try full rear, but really auto is pretty danged fantastic. Anyone who races on tarmac/concrete uses Auto mode. If you're rallyxing, just leave it in auto and try to concentrate on driving. Maybe try monkeying around with it later on but honestly I don't think any setting besides auto would really be very advantageous for even a rallyx. :)
[B] how do you set the DCCD for RallyX?
sorry for threadjack. [/B][/QUOTE]
You could try full rear, but really auto is pretty danged fantastic. Anyone who races on tarmac/concrete uses Auto mode. If you're rallyxing, just leave it in auto and try to concentrate on driving. Maybe try monkeying around with it later on but honestly I don't think any setting besides auto would really be very advantageous for even a rallyx. :)
| AndyRoo | 06-29-2004 10:41 AM |
thanks
| robmarch | 06-29-2004 12:09 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by wrrrx [/i]
[B]Wow- now I'm thinking I should yank my Victo's and give the Potenzas another try! (We have a guy that shows up just once in awhile and wins SM each time.. on the stockers- stock CAR too, except for springs!! :eek: )
I gotta figure out where to buy some driving talent.... :lol:
BTW- I heartily agree w/ the comments regarding the DCCD. Don't mess with it- leave it on Auto. Each time I've tried manual mode at an AutoX, it's hurt me time-wise. (RallyX different story).
Russ R [/B][/QUOTE]
why would he run in SM with a stock STi with Springs? why not ESP or STU?
I'm not sure where you're located, but my region is killer in SM. And there are some really fast STi's and Evo's on race tires in ESP and A Stock too.
I'd think your Victos are far superior, but you could still have fun on the Re070's.
[B]Wow- now I'm thinking I should yank my Victo's and give the Potenzas another try! (We have a guy that shows up just once in awhile and wins SM each time.. on the stockers- stock CAR too, except for springs!! :eek: )
I gotta figure out where to buy some driving talent.... :lol:
BTW- I heartily agree w/ the comments regarding the DCCD. Don't mess with it- leave it on Auto. Each time I've tried manual mode at an AutoX, it's hurt me time-wise. (RallyX different story).
Russ R [/B][/QUOTE]
why would he run in SM with a stock STi with Springs? why not ESP or STU?
I'm not sure where you're located, but my region is killer in SM. And there are some really fast STi's and Evo's on race tires in ESP and A Stock too.
I'd think your Victos are far superior, but you could still have fun on the Re070's.
| makofoto | 06-29-2004 12:13 PM |
Some people run in certain classes because of the competition that is offered in that class, in that area ...
| robmarch | 06-29-2004 01:01 PM |
that's what I was getting at, but if he wins every time in a stock car on street tires, there must not be much competition in that region.
| rallymaniac | 09-21-2006 05:13 PM |
or the competition sucks balls :lol:
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