| gdfoto | 02-03-2005 12:06 PM |
DIY Painted and Filled Trunk Lock w/Pics
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DIY Painted and Filled Trunk Lock
Ok, so I�m not sure if I�m the first one to do this, but I decided to write up what I just spent the last couple of hours doing.
I wanted to debadge my car all the way but I hated how that silver trunk lock on the boot looked. So I decided that if I match it to the color of my car it could tide me over until I had the time and money to get it shaved. The lock isn�t gone, it has just been made nonfunctional and slightly less obvious.
Materials:
Paintscratch.com Kit (had leftover from grill) (includes primer, base, clear, and other accessories)
400 grit sand paper $3
1000 grit sand paper $3
2000 grit sand paper $3
Bondo (eep..) $6 you really only need 23 cents worth but you gotta get a whole can
Rubbing Compound
3M Imperial Hand Glaze
Wax (your choice of flavors)
Process:
1. Mask off the whole area. I used the index card flower method and just gently nudge a side of the car under the rubber trim on the car side of the trunklock. There is only like a 1/16 of clearance so it is hard to tell if it made it under. I used like 20 index cards to do this. Then I taped drop cloth over the rest of the car leaving just the working area open.
2. Scuff the lock with the 400, maybe something coarser and then clean up and dust and road grime left in it. Mix up some Bondo and plaster the thing. I put more on than I should because I wanted to make sure there was no dimple left.
3. Wait for the Bondo to dry then sand down. Make sure not to go too far into the dimple, just level it off. Clean up any Bondo drips or cast aways around the rest of the lock. Make it as perfect as can be. Then rough it up with 1000 grit and remove the dust with tack cloth.
4. Lay on 2-3 coats of primer. I suggest black, just because I think it stands out a lot less if you screw up. Then sand with 1000 grit and remove the dust with tack cloth.
5. Lay on the color coats. I use a lot because I�m paranoid. So I did like 3. You can sand after this but I didn�t.
6. Lay on the clear coat. I suggest doing a couple more than you think. I did I think 4. Let the paint cure for at least 24 hours before proceeding. I didn�t the first time and had to redo everything, The photos below are at 8 hours and I wasn�t able to fully polish things even then. So just wait�
7. I suggest wetsanding before doing the rubbing compound. No matter what I do I still get orange peel. Keep a small bucket of water near you and dip the sand paper in it. Use the 2000 grit. Rub it very very gently across the painted areas, be wary of the edges. As you work wipe off the excess water every so often. You will see the clear start to haze up and there may be some shiny spots. You will also see like thin hazy water like milk come off(that is the clear coat) don�t go so far as to get color on your sandpaper. You want to even out those shiny spots as best as possible, essentially making everything hazy. Get it as perfect as you can. This is the step that really matters for getting a smooth glossy deep finish. Clean off the excess water and clear compound and dry things out.
8. Then hit it with the rubbing compound and really rub it in. Then do the Hand Glaze, this will really start to make it shine. I then do Scratch-X but you don�t have to. Then wax it.
9. Almost done. Take an exacto knife and slowly and gently cut the edge of the paint where it goes from the rubber trim to the index card. You essentially want to make a smooth drop off so that when the cards are removed they don�t chip the finish of the trunk lock.
10. Take away the mask and the cards and marvel at your body color matched trunk lock that will be a bit harder to pick out.
Please note, this will give you a color matched plug on the back of your car. Your outside trunk lock will not work without destroying the work you have just done. I have a wagon and can still access everything even if the remote pop stops working. If you have a sedan you may have trouble if your remote breaks.
Photos below, First one is rough Bondo. Then smoothed Bondo. Then Painted plug. Then Finished plug. Actually, I still need to wait for the paint to fully cure before I can fully buff the plug so it is a little dull right now.
More pics to follow of Sat when I wash/claybar/wax/debadge the car and can buff the lock even more.
[IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/BondoRough.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/BondoSmooth.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/PlugPaint.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/PlugFin.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/TrunkFar.jpg[/IMG]
Ok, so I�m not sure if I�m the first one to do this, but I decided to write up what I just spent the last couple of hours doing.
I wanted to debadge my car all the way but I hated how that silver trunk lock on the boot looked. So I decided that if I match it to the color of my car it could tide me over until I had the time and money to get it shaved. The lock isn�t gone, it has just been made nonfunctional and slightly less obvious.
Materials:
Paintscratch.com Kit (had leftover from grill) (includes primer, base, clear, and other accessories)
400 grit sand paper $3
1000 grit sand paper $3
2000 grit sand paper $3
Bondo (eep..) $6 you really only need 23 cents worth but you gotta get a whole can
Rubbing Compound
3M Imperial Hand Glaze
Wax (your choice of flavors)
Process:
1. Mask off the whole area. I used the index card flower method and just gently nudge a side of the car under the rubber trim on the car side of the trunklock. There is only like a 1/16 of clearance so it is hard to tell if it made it under. I used like 20 index cards to do this. Then I taped drop cloth over the rest of the car leaving just the working area open.
2. Scuff the lock with the 400, maybe something coarser and then clean up and dust and road grime left in it. Mix up some Bondo and plaster the thing. I put more on than I should because I wanted to make sure there was no dimple left.
3. Wait for the Bondo to dry then sand down. Make sure not to go too far into the dimple, just level it off. Clean up any Bondo drips or cast aways around the rest of the lock. Make it as perfect as can be. Then rough it up with 1000 grit and remove the dust with tack cloth.
4. Lay on 2-3 coats of primer. I suggest black, just because I think it stands out a lot less if you screw up. Then sand with 1000 grit and remove the dust with tack cloth.
5. Lay on the color coats. I use a lot because I�m paranoid. So I did like 3. You can sand after this but I didn�t.
6. Lay on the clear coat. I suggest doing a couple more than you think. I did I think 4. Let the paint cure for at least 24 hours before proceeding. I didn�t the first time and had to redo everything, The photos below are at 8 hours and I wasn�t able to fully polish things even then. So just wait�
7. I suggest wetsanding before doing the rubbing compound. No matter what I do I still get orange peel. Keep a small bucket of water near you and dip the sand paper in it. Use the 2000 grit. Rub it very very gently across the painted areas, be wary of the edges. As you work wipe off the excess water every so often. You will see the clear start to haze up and there may be some shiny spots. You will also see like thin hazy water like milk come off(that is the clear coat) don�t go so far as to get color on your sandpaper. You want to even out those shiny spots as best as possible, essentially making everything hazy. Get it as perfect as you can. This is the step that really matters for getting a smooth glossy deep finish. Clean off the excess water and clear compound and dry things out.
8. Then hit it with the rubbing compound and really rub it in. Then do the Hand Glaze, this will really start to make it shine. I then do Scratch-X but you don�t have to. Then wax it.
9. Almost done. Take an exacto knife and slowly and gently cut the edge of the paint where it goes from the rubber trim to the index card. You essentially want to make a smooth drop off so that when the cards are removed they don�t chip the finish of the trunk lock.
10. Take away the mask and the cards and marvel at your body color matched trunk lock that will be a bit harder to pick out.
Please note, this will give you a color matched plug on the back of your car. Your outside trunk lock will not work without destroying the work you have just done. I have a wagon and can still access everything even if the remote pop stops working. If you have a sedan you may have trouble if your remote breaks.
Photos below, First one is rough Bondo. Then smoothed Bondo. Then Painted plug. Then Finished plug. Actually, I still need to wait for the paint to fully cure before I can fully buff the plug so it is a little dull right now.
More pics to follow of Sat when I wash/claybar/wax/debadge the car and can buff the lock even more.
[IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/BondoRough.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/BondoSmooth.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/PlugPaint.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/PlugFin.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/TrunkFar.jpg[/IMG]
| bahboy20 | 02-03-2005 01:33 PM |
whoa
�
�
you bondoed over the keyhole but left the keyhole there?
i thought most people removed the keyhole all together and made it totally smooth and flat...with bondo/filler and paint filling the hole in.
I am a little confused about the purpose of doing what you did? The trunk key hole is still there, just bondo filled and painted? So you cant use it but you still see the bump?
Nice writeup, though.
dan
i thought most people removed the keyhole all together and made it totally smooth and flat...with bondo/filler and paint filling the hole in.
I am a little confused about the purpose of doing what you did? The trunk key hole is still there, just bondo filled and painted? So you cant use it but you still see the bump?
Nice writeup, though.
dan
| kennyvb | 02-03-2005 01:34 PM |
interesting mod. something i might do but i think it would have been easier if you just got some kind of plug and painted it...
| gdfoto | 02-03-2005 01:45 PM |
Ya, its still there. The idea is to kind of tide me over until I can get a real shave. Not sure if I like it yet, but it was something to try. Just helps to keep the rear end all one color, at least it will when it is cleaned and debadged. It is deffinately a weird idea but something to try at least.
-GD
-GD
| paperchasin | 02-03-2005 01:49 PM |
interesting, yet weird...
| turbokonejo | 02-03-2005 02:08 PM |
Nice tape line and pinholes you left on there :lol:
| gdfoto | 02-03-2005 02:29 PM |
Beautiful ain't they. The pinholes on the lock are just dust and the tapeline is from me being heavy handed with the exacto. Not perfect to say the least.
-GD
-GD
| AlbaScoob | 02-03-2005 02:30 PM |
i don't get it...
i agree it's a great write up though!
i agree it's a great write up though!
| gdfoto | 02-05-2005 01:32 PM |
Here are the final pics. Washed/claybar/wax/buff/debadged/scratchs filled.
Some of the paint has started to peel off the rubber trim but the lock itself has not peeled, which I guess makes sense.
One close one far. Stay tuned for more DIY madness in a couple of weeks.
-GD
[IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/FarBack.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/CloseBack.jpg[/IMG]
Some of the paint has started to peel off the rubber trim but the lock itself has not peeled, which I guess makes sense.
One close one far. Stay tuned for more DIY madness in a couple of weeks.
-GD
[IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/FarBack.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.gdfoto.com/CloseBack.jpg[/IMG]
| Handsdown | 02-05-2005 02:02 PM |
next time just take the lock out and bondo the hole...:confused:
| exrage | 02-05-2005 02:05 PM |
Just bondoing the hole will not be a long term solution, if you take out the lock youd have to weld in some sort of metal. if you just fill it w/ bondo it will never cure properly and will eventually cave in. its a good hold over...
| turbokonejo | 02-05-2005 02:51 PM |
not only that but I dont think he can repaint his hatch
| AltimaJay | 02-05-2005 02:54 PM |
different strokes, different folks. Im not one for this. either go all the way or dont go.
| colinrobinson | 02-05-2005 03:29 PM |
[QUOTE=AltimaJay]go all the way or dont go.[/QUOTE]
thats what i think too
but...its your car, so whatever floats your boat...err, car
thats what i think too
but...its your car, so whatever floats your boat...err, car
| Marx92x | 02-05-2005 06:44 PM |
At first I was like, this isn't a good idea. but after seeing those last two pics of your wagon I must admit that your all balck lift gate looks really good. No shiney chrome lock messing it up.
I still think filling a perfectly good lock with bondo is a little wierd, so here's an idea that many may find easier to digest:
Remove the lock and tumbler and have it anodized or painted the same color as your car, then re install. It would blend in with the rest of the car and still be functional. Hey, thats such a good idea, I might have to try it! :D
I still think filling a perfectly good lock with bondo is a little wierd, so here's an idea that many may find easier to digest:
Remove the lock and tumbler and have it anodized or painted the same color as your car, then re install. It would blend in with the rest of the car and still be functional. Hey, thats such a good idea, I might have to try it! :D
| Chris51080 | 02-05-2005 07:29 PM |
Why not take out the lock and place some fiberglass from the back of the panel. Bondo over that to smooth it out.
| gdfoto | 02-05-2005 11:16 PM |
[QUOTE=Marx92x]At first I was like, this isn't a good idea. but after seeing those last two pics of your wagon I must admit that your all balck lift gate looks really good. No shiney chrome lock messing it up.
I still think filling a perfectly good lock with bondo is a little wierd, so here's an idea that many may find easier to digest:
Remove the lock and tumbler and have it anodized or painted the same color as your car, then re install. It would blend in with the rest of the car and still be functional. Hey, thats such a good idea, I might have to try it! :D[/QUOTE]
Damn it......
I still think filling a perfectly good lock with bondo is a little wierd, so here's an idea that many may find easier to digest:
Remove the lock and tumbler and have it anodized or painted the same color as your car, then re install. It would blend in with the rest of the car and still be functional. Hey, thats such a good idea, I might have to try it! :D[/QUOTE]
Damn it......
| StealthWRX | 02-06-2005 12:06 AM |
Here is mine :)
[IMG]http://img219.exs.cx/img219/5805/img046225vs.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img219.exs.cx/img219/5805/img046225vs.jpg[/IMG]
| Seranin | 02-06-2005 12:31 AM |
nice photo... very creepy ;)
| Marx92x | 02-06-2005 01:33 AM |
Yeah, that WRX is blacker than black. Also it looks like it must have genitals. What with that big censor bar over its rear...
| StealthWRX | 02-06-2005 01:50 AM |
haha i just did that to cover the plate :D Heres one more....(not its current look.) (sorry its huge)
[IMG]http://img209.exs.cx/img209/4347/img05096kw.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img209.exs.cx/img209/4347/img05096kw.jpg[/IMG]
| Marx92x | 02-06-2005 02:16 AM |
Thats awesome. Are those Black Rota Actions? I'm thinking of getting some for my black wagon. The all black stealth look is teh tightne55!!!!11!
of course I have SAAB, no one will know what it is anyway... :confused:
of course I have SAAB, no one will know what it is anyway... :confused:
| StealthWRX | 02-06-2005 02:29 AM |
yea rota actions. thanks! and put up a pic of your 92x id love to see it in black!
| the_owl | 02-06-2005 02:32 AM |
metal slug. Welded, grinded, sanded and painted.
Left my old lock in the stock STi trunk.
I dont get the leaving it there thing, but looks like you spent some time on it.
[IMG]http://www.nmnetsys.net/hosted/shaved.jpg[/IMG]
Left my old lock in the stock STi trunk.
I dont get the leaving it there thing, but looks like you spent some time on it.
[IMG]http://www.nmnetsys.net/hosted/shaved.jpg[/IMG]
| jojor512 | 02-06-2005 12:25 PM |
damn owl thats a hot looking car, any more pics?
| emnm79 | 02-06-2005 03:24 PM |
^ ditto :)
I wonder if the lock is aluminum, then you could maybe get the top annodized... looks and functionality
I wonder if the lock is aluminum, then you could maybe get the top annodized... looks and functionality
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