| satrya | 05-11-2003 03:48 PM |
how to match aftermarket gauge needles to your oem tach/speedo cluster (simple DIY)
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If you have aftermarket gauges whose needles do not match the oem tach/speedo cluster, you may be interested in this writeup.
The main goal for this writeup is to show one method I have chosen to open up the gauge, and depending on how your gauge is constructed, this may or may not be the right approach for you. Having said that, this is the second gauge that I have opened up and color-matched the needle. So far, so good.
I'll try to point out some things worth noting along the process.
As a preview, here is the original gauge, it is an AutoGage (by Autometer) number 2310, which is an inexpensive (read: less than US$30), 2 5/16" mechanical boost gauge. Here's how it looks:
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/before.jpg[/IMG]
For usdm GD impreza (the usdm my2002-2003 bug-eye), the tach/speedo cluster has translucent yellow needles with black center and black counterbalance. The final mod, which includes painting the inner rim tring silver, and some lines yellow and red, looks like this:
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/after.jpg[/IMG]
The main goal for this writeup is to show one method I have chosen to open up the gauge, and depending on how your gauge is constructed, this may or may not be the right approach for you. Having said that, this is the second gauge that I have opened up and color-matched the needle. So far, so good.
I'll try to point out some things worth noting along the process.
As a preview, here is the original gauge, it is an AutoGage (by Autometer) number 2310, which is an inexpensive (read: less than US$30), 2 5/16" mechanical boost gauge. Here's how it looks:
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/before.jpg[/IMG]
For usdm GD impreza (the usdm my2002-2003 bug-eye), the tach/speedo cluster has translucent yellow needles with black center and black counterbalance. The final mod, which includes painting the inner rim tring silver, and some lines yellow and red, looks like this:
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/after.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:00 PM |
basic idea
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Searching the web with google, the only documented instruction on opening aftermarket gauges I was able to find 2 months ago was for VDO gauges with plastic housing. That particular instruction suggested using a saw to cut the housing approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the front trim ring. Iirc, the documentation noted that the method I am documenting here is not advisable; I can only say that so far, I have used this method twice without problems. I can't think of why it wouldn't be a good approach.
Either way, it may not be a good idea if your gauge housing is made of metal, because the metal shavings may contaminate the sensitive gauge (depending on the type of the gauge), may cause electrical short circuit, and may be tough to do with regular home tools.
For the 2310 autogage and a vdo clock I have, the housing is made of metal. The front trim is attached to the housing by "folding" the trim over a flange on the housing. If the trim of your gauge is attached the same way, this DIY may work for you.
Either way, it may not be a good idea if your gauge housing is made of metal, because the metal shavings may contaminate the sensitive gauge (depending on the type of the gauge), may cause electrical short circuit, and may be tough to do with regular home tools.
For the 2310 autogage and a vdo clock I have, the housing is made of metal. The front trim is attached to the housing by "folding" the trim over a flange on the housing. If the trim of your gauge is attached the same way, this DIY may work for you.
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:09 PM |
Step 1: slowly pry the trim
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The trim may seem to be tightly clamped to the housing.
Start with a tool with a wide, but thin wedge like the one shown in the picture below. The key is to work on the edge little by little. Push the tool tip in (orange arrow), and slowly turn the tip to bend the trim away from the housing (green arrow). The smaller the increments, the less jagged edge will result.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step001.jpg[/IMG]
Start with a tool with a wide, but thin wedge like the one shown in the picture below. The key is to work on the edge little by little. Push the tool tip in (orange arrow), and slowly turn the tip to bend the trim away from the housing (green arrow). The smaller the increments, the less jagged edge will result.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step001.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:17 PM |
Note #1: Invest on good cut-resistant work gloves
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If you do a lot of DIY, or do a few that involves contact with sharp metal, it's a good idea to invest on an inexpensive pair of cut-resistant gloves.
As an example, [url]www.mcmaster.com[/url] sells heat and cut resistant gloves. Unlike cotton gloves, these last longer and could offer better protection, imho, for a little bit more money.
Medium duty plain kevlar gloves cost about US$5.00 each.
As a reference, product # 6086T23 in mcmaster works reasonably well. With practice, they allow enough dextrousity to type on a keyboard without much problems. So, you can still handle the smaller objects and not worry too much about getting a cut.
As an example, [url]www.mcmaster.com[/url] sells heat and cut resistant gloves. Unlike cotton gloves, these last longer and could offer better protection, imho, for a little bit more money.
Medium duty plain kevlar gloves cost about US$5.00 each.
As a reference, product # 6086T23 in mcmaster works reasonably well. With practice, they allow enough dextrousity to type on a keyboard without much problems. So, you can still handle the smaller objects and not worry too much about getting a cut.
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:20 PM |
Note #2: How far should you bend the trim
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Instead of working all the way around the trim, it's a good idea to just work on a little bit more than half of the trim, as shown in the picture below. Doing so retains a reasonable area intact (read: free from scratches and dents), and allows you to place the best looking area where it will be most visible.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step002.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step002.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:27 PM |
Step 2: pry the trim out
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After working on the trim for a while, carefully use a flat-tipped, dull tool, and poke it into the space between the trim and housing (as shown in the picture below). When it takes little effort to do so, stop prying the trim and pop it open. Otherwise, work on the trim again. The picture shows slight jagged edges on the trim. Using a more round-edged tool tips would minimize this.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step003.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step003.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:29 PM |
The disassembled trim
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The picture below shows the disassembled trim.
Note the flange on the housing that holds the trim. Also note that for this particular model, there is an inner trim that seats the glass properly.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step004.jpg[/IMG]
Note the flange on the housing that holds the trim. Also note that for this particular model, there is an inner trim that seats the glass properly.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step004.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:33 PM |
Step 3: mask the gauge
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With the cover pried open, the next job is to make a mask to cover everything but the gauge needle. An easy way is to use a transparent sheet of plastic, and cut it in the pattern shown by the yellow illustration on the sheet. Then, insert the cut so that the axis of the needle is in the diamond-shaped opening.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step006.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step006.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:38 PM |
Note 3: What not to use to mask the gauge!!
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I used the transparent plastic sheet used in junk mailings for the mask (see picture). Turns out that some (if not all) of these thin plastic can react with the thinner in the spray paint can. After several layers, this plastic can degrade. [B][U] Do not use these thin plastic sheets.[/U][/B]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step005.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step005.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:41 PM |
Note 4: use two sheets and orient them differently
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To minimize the chance of paint from accumulating on the mask and leak into the gauge, it's better to use at least two sheets of masking, and make sure that the opening/slits are oriented differently. This is illustrated in the picture below using the yellow and red arrows and dotted lines.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step007.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step007.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:44 PM |
Step 4: paint the needle yellow
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Below is the picture of the boost gauge, with the needle painted "Sun Yellow". Since the boost gauge came with opaque needles (that doesn't light up), any spray paint with matching color will do. For translucent needles that light up, it may be very difficult to replace the colored part with a different colored translucent plastic. I also painted the inner trim silver, to go with the oem GD impreza interior.
[B]Note the yellow sheet with holes on it (red arrow). That's the thin plastic reacting to the paint.[/B]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step008.jpg[/IMG]
[B]Note the yellow sheet with holes on it (red arrow). That's the thin plastic reacting to the paint.[/B]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step008.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:49 PM |
Step 5: paint the center and counterbalance area black
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To give it an oem look, the center and counterbalance part of the needle is painted black. I used a somewhat thick paint and brush it on. With enough layers, the paint fills the sharp corners and gives it a more solid, rounded look.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step009.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step009.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:53 PM |
Step 6 (optional): add yellow and red masks on the dial
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I also wanted to add coloring on some of the dials, to allow me to get a better idea on the level of boost without having to look directly at the gauge. I used a semi-translucent yellow tape (adhesive backed) sold for hobby RC airplanes. This roll cost US$3.30. For the red, I simply colored the yellow tape with a red permanent marker.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step010.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step010.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 04:58 PM |
Step 7 (optional): Reduce green reflection
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Since this particular gauge relies on a colored bulb cover, I wanted to reduce the amount of green glow reflection in the areas where I added the red and yellow translucent tape. The inner gauge housing around these areas are covered by yellow and red tape, as shown in the picture below. Although the green bulb cover filters out other colors (including red and yellow), and putting the yellow & red tape filters the light further, at least it will allow the yellow and red dials to show better than otherwise.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step011.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step011.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 05:00 PM |
Step 8: re-mount the inner trim and glass panel
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Re-mount the inner trim (painted silver) and glass panel. For this particular gauge, it's a matter of stacking them together. It may be easier to add glue so that the inner trim will stick to the housing.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step012.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step012.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 05:05 PM |
Step 9 (important step): re-clamp the outer trim
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The only important task left to do is to re-attach the outer trim.
Before doing so, make sure there are no debris left inside the gauge.
As shown in the picture, use a solid tool and push the outer trim onto the housing. As in the disassembly process, working on small increments at a time works best.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step013.jpg[/IMG]
Before doing so, make sure there are no debris left inside the gauge.
As shown in the picture, use a solid tool and push the outer trim onto the housing. As in the disassembly process, working on small increments at a time works best.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step013.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 05:11 PM |
Final photo with the speedo/tach cluster
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Here's the result, shown with the speedo/tach cluster. The boost gauge is mounted via a [URL=http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=310009]DIY cluster bezel pod[/URL], and somehow appears a bit brighter than the speedo/tach cluster. In reality the yellow matches better than this picture.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step014.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step014.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 05:13 PM |
Lighted up
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Since the boost gauge came with opaque needles, the color match isn't as good when the gauges are lit. Nevertheles, it looks better than the original white needles, imho.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step016.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 05-11-2003 05:20 PM |
The picture below shows how the yellow needle and silver trim blends with the rest of the interior. The analog clock is a VDO gauge, and originally had red opaque needles. The analog clock is mounted on a [URL=http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=352814]custom center console with 2 round vents.[/URL] [IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/step017.jpg[/IMG]
End of writeup.
If you have similar or different approach, or have some thoughts/questions regarding color-matching gauge needles, I'd be interested to know :)
End of writeup.
If you have similar or different approach, or have some thoughts/questions regarding color-matching gauge needles, I'd be interested to know :)
| Oo DaRk StAr oO | 05-11-2003 06:29 PM |
HOLY ****!!!
Thats a busy cockipit.
Very nice!!!
Thats a busy cockipit.
Very nice!!!
| Capt Crunch | 05-11-2003 06:41 PM |
You are officially the king of DIY.
| DragII | 05-11-2003 07:43 PM |
Cool write up! thanks! :)
| pleue | 05-11-2003 10:37 PM |
Anyone figure out yet how to do the opposite i.e. match your cluster needles to lets say some defi gauges or something? never really been a fan of the yellow.
| imprezive one | 05-11-2003 10:56 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by pleue [/i]
[B]Anyone figure out yet how to do the opposite i.e. match your cluster needles to lets say some defi gauges or something? never really been a fan of the yellow. [/B][/QUOTE]
I've been trying to come up with a way to do this myself. I want all red interior lighting. Only feasible thing I've come up with thus far that wouldn't make the needles look crappy (ie uneven paint over the yellow tinted glass) is swapping the yellow needles found in the 02-03 model with the red needles found in the 04 models. I don't know if it's a direct swap and I'm certain you'd have to pay a crapload to get the dealer to do it (the needles are delicately balanced with oil and taking them off would really mess them up unless you're a subaru technician). So there's really no way that I've thought up yet that either doesn't guarantee great results, or keep the price down. Keep brainstorming. Also, props to you satrya for having the guts to go ahead and try this with your gauges. It certainly gave me some more ideas.
[B]Anyone figure out yet how to do the opposite i.e. match your cluster needles to lets say some defi gauges or something? never really been a fan of the yellow. [/B][/QUOTE]
I've been trying to come up with a way to do this myself. I want all red interior lighting. Only feasible thing I've come up with thus far that wouldn't make the needles look crappy (ie uneven paint over the yellow tinted glass) is swapping the yellow needles found in the 02-03 model with the red needles found in the 04 models. I don't know if it's a direct swap and I'm certain you'd have to pay a crapload to get the dealer to do it (the needles are delicately balanced with oil and taking them off would really mess them up unless you're a subaru technician). So there's really no way that I've thought up yet that either doesn't guarantee great results, or keep the price down. Keep brainstorming. Also, props to you satrya for having the guts to go ahead and try this with your gauges. It certainly gave me some more ideas.
| imprezive one | 05-11-2003 10:57 PM |
one more thought. You could swap the whole speedo cluster from the 04 model into the 02-03 model. I figure it would cost less than buying the individual needles fromt he stealership and the service charges but I doubt you want red needles THAT badly. heh heh.
| CirrusWRX | 05-11-2003 11:58 PM |
Amazing job dude - congrats on an excellent DIY mod!
:eek:
:eek:
| satrya | 05-12-2003 12:46 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Oo DaRk StAr oO [/i]
[B]Thats a busy cockipit.[/B][/QUOTE]
Yes. It turned out to be busier than I intended. The original intention for the cluster panel was so that it matches the DIY center console I made. I probably went a bit too far.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Capt Crunch[/i]
[B]You are officially the king of DIY.[/B][/QUOTE]
Thank you.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Drag II[/i]
[B]Cool write up! thanks![/B][/QUOTE]
You're welcome. The mod gets easier the second time around, so if you plan on doing this DIY, I suggest trying it on the least favorite or least expensive one first.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by CirrusWRX[/i]
[B]Amazing job dude - congrats on an excellent DIY mod![/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. I like the inexpensive autogage boost gauge more now. :)
[B]Thats a busy cockipit.[/B][/QUOTE]
Yes. It turned out to be busier than I intended. The original intention for the cluster panel was so that it matches the DIY center console I made. I probably went a bit too far.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Capt Crunch[/i]
[B]You are officially the king of DIY.[/B][/QUOTE]
Thank you.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Drag II[/i]
[B]Cool write up! thanks![/B][/QUOTE]
You're welcome. The mod gets easier the second time around, so if you plan on doing this DIY, I suggest trying it on the least favorite or least expensive one first.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by CirrusWRX[/i]
[B]Amazing job dude - congrats on an excellent DIY mod![/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. I like the inexpensive autogage boost gauge more now. :)
| satrya | 05-12-2003 01:02 AM |
Yellow needle --> red needle swap
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[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by imprezive one [/i]
[B].....Only feasible thing I've come up with thus far that wouldn't make the needles look crappy (ie uneven paint over the yellow tinted glass) is swapping the yellow needles found in the 02-03 model with the red needles found in the 04 models. I don't know if it's a direct swap and I'm certain you'd have to pay a crapload to get the dealer to do it (the needles are delicately balanced with oil and taking them off would really mess them up unless you're a subaru technician).....[/B][/QUOTE]
This is a good topic to discuss, but I think there are two major "challenges".
(1) replacing the whole speedo/tach cluster may require some legal process. Although I'm not familiar with it, I remember reading a post years ago, before or right when the bug eye was about to come into the US. Someone did an STi cluster mod (on a GC?). Iirc, there are some legal paperwork you need to do because of the odometer change. All I remember from reading the discussion was it was a headache, including
warranty issues.
(2) replacing the neeldes by removing the oem ones and swapping with usdm my2004 or other red needles (the SG5 forester has red needles, and their cluster is very similar to the GD impreza), as some pointed in other threads, is tricky because you need to make sure the replacements are mounted correctly. Any error in angle will result in erroneous readings; if the needles are pushed in too much, then they may stick. I recall reading problems with indiglo gauges, where the needles are removed first before the indiglo overlay is installed.
A third option, although it seems rather absurd, is to leave the center and counterbalance parts of the original needle, and cut the translucent yellow part. Replace it with red ones, or whatever color of choice. The legal issues encountered in option one should not be an issue. The sticking and bias issue in option two would be nonexistent either; provided that the trimming of the yellow part and the glueing of the replacement needle is done carefully. I'm not sure how difficult it would be to cut the yellow part though.
Any other options/thoughts?
[B].....Only feasible thing I've come up with thus far that wouldn't make the needles look crappy (ie uneven paint over the yellow tinted glass) is swapping the yellow needles found in the 02-03 model with the red needles found in the 04 models. I don't know if it's a direct swap and I'm certain you'd have to pay a crapload to get the dealer to do it (the needles are delicately balanced with oil and taking them off would really mess them up unless you're a subaru technician).....[/B][/QUOTE]
This is a good topic to discuss, but I think there are two major "challenges".
(1) replacing the whole speedo/tach cluster may require some legal process. Although I'm not familiar with it, I remember reading a post years ago, before or right when the bug eye was about to come into the US. Someone did an STi cluster mod (on a GC?). Iirc, there are some legal paperwork you need to do because of the odometer change. All I remember from reading the discussion was it was a headache, including
warranty issues.
(2) replacing the neeldes by removing the oem ones and swapping with usdm my2004 or other red needles (the SG5 forester has red needles, and their cluster is very similar to the GD impreza), as some pointed in other threads, is tricky because you need to make sure the replacements are mounted correctly. Any error in angle will result in erroneous readings; if the needles are pushed in too much, then they may stick. I recall reading problems with indiglo gauges, where the needles are removed first before the indiglo overlay is installed.
A third option, although it seems rather absurd, is to leave the center and counterbalance parts of the original needle, and cut the translucent yellow part. Replace it with red ones, or whatever color of choice. The legal issues encountered in option one should not be an issue. The sticking and bias issue in option two would be nonexistent either; provided that the trimming of the yellow part and the glueing of the replacement needle is done carefully. I'm not sure how difficult it would be to cut the yellow part though.
Any other options/thoughts?
| pleue | 05-12-2003 03:31 AM |
possibly a translucent paint but it owuld be hard to get it done evenly. I'm also interested in the red interior lighting scheme. You can light them up red pretty easily, haven't really figured out that feasible a way to make them red though. Thought of all the options before hand but not sure if it's worth the hassle or the risk. Any other ideas anyone? Sorry to hijack somewhat.
| satrya | 05-12-2003 11:10 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by pleue [/i]
[B]possibly a translucent paint but it owuld be hard to get it done evenly. I'm also interested in the red interior lighting scheme. You can light them up red pretty easily, haven't really figured out that feasible a way to make them red though.[/B][/QUOTE]
Overlaying the translucent yellow needle with translucent red paint will not result in a "real" red. Think of the original yellow color as a passive filter that only transmits frequencies that correspond to yellow (as well as other nearby frequencies, but not as strong as the yellow "frequency"). Adding translucent red will filter this light further, letting frequencies around red pass more than the others. Overall, both frequencies around yellow and red gets passed through. The result may be an orange-ish hue.
[SIZE=1]For those familiar with signal processing or color filtering, please excuse my somewhat loose description above. The main point I wanted to get across was the two filters can result in an unexpected color.[/SIZE]
[B]possibly a translucent paint but it owuld be hard to get it done evenly. I'm also interested in the red interior lighting scheme. You can light them up red pretty easily, haven't really figured out that feasible a way to make them red though.[/B][/QUOTE]
Overlaying the translucent yellow needle with translucent red paint will not result in a "real" red. Think of the original yellow color as a passive filter that only transmits frequencies that correspond to yellow (as well as other nearby frequencies, but not as strong as the yellow "frequency"). Adding translucent red will filter this light further, letting frequencies around red pass more than the others. Overall, both frequencies around yellow and red gets passed through. The result may be an orange-ish hue.
[SIZE=1]For those familiar with signal processing or color filtering, please excuse my somewhat loose description above. The main point I wanted to get across was the two filters can result in an unexpected color.[/SIZE]
| CirrusWRX | 05-12-2003 03:34 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by satrya [/i]
[B]
[SIZE=1]The main point I wanted to get across was the two filters can result in an unexpected color.[/SIZE] [/B][/QUOTE]
like puke orange!
[B]
[SIZE=1]The main point I wanted to get across was the two filters can result in an unexpected color.[/SIZE] [/B][/QUOTE]
like puke orange!
| satrya | 05-14-2003 11:03 AM |
regarding the red needle conversion
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[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by CirrusWRX [/i]
[B]like puke orange! [/B][/QUOTE]
That's possible.
I believe it's also possible to achieve the correct red by painting a transparent paint that results in red being transmitted; the only drawback will be that the needles will not glow as bright;
relatively speaking yellow is not that "far" from red, and it may be possible to use a certain pink transparent paint and overlay it on the yellow needles to get the perfect red.
The easiest and safest way to experiment with this is to buy clear plastic and a [B]tanslucent[/B] yellow paint that matches the oem needles, and a few hues of [B]transparent[/B] pink. If there is a satisfactory match, then the oem needles can be modified without worries.
[SIZE=1]I'm making the distinction between translucent and transparent because we'd want to reproduce the slightly blurry yellow color of the oem GD/GG tach/speedo needles, but we don't want to use translucent pink because we don't want to reduce the light output too much.[/SIZE]
[B]like puke orange! [/B][/QUOTE]
That's possible.
I believe it's also possible to achieve the correct red by painting a transparent paint that results in red being transmitted; the only drawback will be that the needles will not glow as bright;
relatively speaking yellow is not that "far" from red, and it may be possible to use a certain pink transparent paint and overlay it on the yellow needles to get the perfect red.
The easiest and safest way to experiment with this is to buy clear plastic and a [B]tanslucent[/B] yellow paint that matches the oem needles, and a few hues of [B]transparent[/B] pink. If there is a satisfactory match, then the oem needles can be modified without worries.
[SIZE=1]I'm making the distinction between translucent and transparent because we'd want to reproduce the slightly blurry yellow color of the oem GD/GG tach/speedo needles, but we don't want to use translucent pink because we don't want to reduce the light output too much.[/SIZE]
| satrya | 05-14-2003 11:33 AM |
better daytime photo
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Here's a better daytime photo of how the opaque yellow needle compares with the oem translucent speedo & tach needles. It somehow looks better than the ones I previously posted. During the daytime, it became much easier to get an idea of the state of boost without having to draw attention away from the road because now it is easier to distinguish between the boost needle and the numbers & dials. Originally, they were all white.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/day01.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200305boost/day01.jpg[/IMG]
| Tobey | 05-14-2003 05:59 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by imprezive one [/i]
[B]one more thought. You could swap the whole speedo cluster from the 04 model into the 02-03 model. I figure it would cost less than buying the individual needles fromt he stealership and the service charges but I doubt you want red needles THAT badly. heh heh. [/B][/QUOTE]
this is the first thing i am going to do after someone confirms that it is plug and play. went to the parts dept and the 04 wrx and sti clusters appear to be the same price.
if both are plug and play, i will do the sti cluster.
as far as mileage goes, i have heard the dealers can program the clusters to match. they must have the power, what if one got stolen or bashed apart in a break-in or something? might cost an arm and a leg though... but it shouldn't:disco:
[B]one more thought. You could swap the whole speedo cluster from the 04 model into the 02-03 model. I figure it would cost less than buying the individual needles fromt he stealership and the service charges but I doubt you want red needles THAT badly. heh heh. [/B][/QUOTE]
this is the first thing i am going to do after someone confirms that it is plug and play. went to the parts dept and the 04 wrx and sti clusters appear to be the same price.
if both are plug and play, i will do the sti cluster.
as far as mileage goes, i have heard the dealers can program the clusters to match. they must have the power, what if one got stolen or bashed apart in a break-in or something? might cost an arm and a leg though... but it shouldn't:disco:
| Vostok 7 | 05-14-2003 06:34 PM |
What did you do to your cluster? That looks sweet!
Vostok 7
Vostok 7
| satrya | 05-14-2003 07:40 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Vostok 7 [/i]
[B]What did you do to your cluster? That looks sweet![/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. It's a DIY cluster face. It all started when I wanted to have a bigger silver trim around the tach/speedo, before the my2004 STi (which essentially has the nice silver trims that I wanted) came out. It evolved to something very different.
The DIY is very easy to do. The materials area:
(1) a piece of aluminum sheet metal (for the basic faceplate)
(2) a few rubber plugs (for the speedo, tach & fuel/temp gauges),
(3) some rubber grommets (for the smaller displays like the turn signal indicator
(4) small machine screws and hex nuts
(5) windshield tint (the static cling type; so that the 2 virtual gauges behind the 3 gauge cluster shows the brake and door signs)
[SIZE=1]If you're interested in making some kind of a face plate, let me know. I made a scan of some of the critical measurements of the gauge cluster. [/SIZE]
[B]What did you do to your cluster? That looks sweet![/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. It's a DIY cluster face. It all started when I wanted to have a bigger silver trim around the tach/speedo, before the my2004 STi (which essentially has the nice silver trims that I wanted) came out. It evolved to something very different.
The DIY is very easy to do. The materials area:
(1) a piece of aluminum sheet metal (for the basic faceplate)
(2) a few rubber plugs (for the speedo, tach & fuel/temp gauges),
(3) some rubber grommets (for the smaller displays like the turn signal indicator
(4) small machine screws and hex nuts
(5) windshield tint (the static cling type; so that the 2 virtual gauges behind the 3 gauge cluster shows the brake and door signs)
[SIZE=1]If you're interested in making some kind of a face plate, let me know. I made a scan of some of the critical measurements of the gauge cluster. [/SIZE]
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