| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:16 AM |
Porsche 997 style boost gauge pod
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[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0019.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0022.jpg[/IMG]
Having seen the speedo/tach cluster of the latest iteration of Porsche 911s (aka the 997 --> [url]http://www.germancarfans.com/photos.cfm/photoid/3040510.001/pageview/photo/photo/1008/page/1/size/regular/porsche/1.html[/url] ), it seems to me that having more than 3 round pods on the speedo/tach cluster isn't that distracting. I toyed with some possibilities, inspired by this concept (see [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=694741[/url] ).
Previously, I mounted a 2 1/16" boost gauge, along with 3 mini gauges, around an improvised speedo/tach cluster using smoked acrylic and painted PVC pipes shown below (see [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609935[/url] ). This was because I didn't like the fact that a-pillars and Defi style center pods are so visible from the outside.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash307.jpg[/IMG]
Regardless, the boost gauge is still quite visible, although easily removable per the way it is mounted (see [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=310009[/url] ). The 997 style cluster encouraged me to attempt a more recessed and integrated mounting of the boost gauge. The problem was, the 2 1/16" outer diameter size means that standard PVC pipe sizes cannot be used. Instead, I decided to use sheet metal. The following posts summarize the process. It is a very doable DIY in that no special tools are required. Just careful measurement & patience.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0022.jpg[/IMG]
Having seen the speedo/tach cluster of the latest iteration of Porsche 911s (aka the 997 --> [url]http://www.germancarfans.com/photos.cfm/photoid/3040510.001/pageview/photo/photo/1008/page/1/size/regular/porsche/1.html[/url] ), it seems to me that having more than 3 round pods on the speedo/tach cluster isn't that distracting. I toyed with some possibilities, inspired by this concept (see [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=694741[/url] ).
Previously, I mounted a 2 1/16" boost gauge, along with 3 mini gauges, around an improvised speedo/tach cluster using smoked acrylic and painted PVC pipes shown below (see [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609935[/url] ). This was because I didn't like the fact that a-pillars and Defi style center pods are so visible from the outside.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash307.jpg[/IMG]
Regardless, the boost gauge is still quite visible, although easily removable per the way it is mounted (see [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=310009[/url] ). The 997 style cluster encouraged me to attempt a more recessed and integrated mounting of the boost gauge. The problem was, the 2 1/16" outer diameter size means that standard PVC pipe sizes cannot be used. Instead, I decided to use sheet metal. The following posts summarize the process. It is a very doable DIY in that no special tools are required. Just careful measurement & patience.
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:19 AM |
Template #1
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The first step is to determine the general shape of the boost gauge pod that is supposed to match the pre-existing speedo/tach cluster made of smoked acrylic & trimmed PVC pipe shown above. Like constructing a paper mache, layer medium-strength adhesive tape to form the pod as well as to mark adjacent parts that intersect/mate.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0001.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0001.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:21 AM |
The second point to this tape template is to determine the general orientation of the gauge, in the sense of how the boost gauge will visually affect the speedo/tach cluster, and whether the orientation of the boost gauge glass lens will result in unwanted glare. Some experimentation results in a general orientation as shown, where the lens is nearly vertical, tilted slightly to the front window glass of the driver's side door.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0002.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0002.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:23 AM |
The third point of the tape template is to eyeball parts of the inner and outer bezels that need to be removed. This is because the boost gauge and the corresponding pod mounts somewhat recessed, so some parts have to hide "behind" the bezel.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0003.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0003.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:28 AM |
Template #2: PVC pipe
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The next step is to transfer the general tape template to a PVC pipe by peeling the entire tape template and using it to cut a similar shape out of PVC pipe. The PVC pipe chosen here has its outer diameter (OD) as close to the boost gauge's OD of 2 1/16". Note that this means the gauge cannot be inserted into the PVC pipe, but at least template #1 made of tape that matches the boost gauge's OD could be easily transferred to the PVC pipe. Using a PVC pipe at this stage allows one to refine the cuts where the boost gauge pod should intersect the tach's trim (also made of PVC pipe).
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0004.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0004.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:30 AM |
Since the PVC pipe is rigid and thick enough, it is easy to verify whether the cut orientation results in proper orientation of the boost gauge. The second picture below shows more or less how far the boost gauge obstructs the tach with this mounting method.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0005.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0006.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0005.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0006.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:34 AM |
Template #3: card stock
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Card stock or somewhat rigid paper is used to make template #3 based on template #2. Particularly, the shape, orientation, and locations of the 2 notches that mate to the tach trim is transferred from template #2. Now, the distance from the boost gauge lens to the speedo/tach cluster plane can be adjusted by starting with a long template, and gradually cutting it to make the boost gauge be as close as possible to the speedo/tach plane. The boost gauge orientation will not change, so glare, which as taken into account in template #1 should not be an issue anymore. The second image shows a comparison between the orientation of the boost gauge using template #3 vs one of the earlier photoshop trials.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0007.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0008.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0007.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0008.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:38 AM |
Next is determining how the boost gauge interferes with the inner & outer bezels / shroud. To ensure proper orientation, template #3, made of card stock, is enforced by template #2 on the inside. Interference between the boost gauge+pod vs the inner & outer bezels can only be eyeballed at this point as shown below.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0009.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0009.jpg[/IMG]
| thesmokingman | 01-26-2005 12:38 AM |
Nice project.
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:41 AM |
Template #4
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To improve on the previous interference estimate, a portion of the PVC template (#2) is now trimmed so that the inner&outer bezel can be attached to the speedo/tach cluster faceplate as shown below. This is now template #4.
Since #4 has notches that allow it to seat properly with respect to the tach trim, this provides a very good estimate on which portions of inner & outer bezels to trim. Marks are scribbled on the tape affixed to the bezels for cutting.
Second & third images below show the inner bezel being cut & sanded
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0010.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0011.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0012.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0013.jpg[/IMG]
Since #4 has notches that allow it to seat properly with respect to the tach trim, this provides a very good estimate on which portions of inner & outer bezels to trim. Marks are scribbled on the tape affixed to the bezels for cutting.
Second & third images below show the inner bezel being cut & sanded
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0010.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0011.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0012.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0013.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:46 AM |
Template #5
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Before the final pod, a 5th template is made of the same material that the final boost gauge pod will be made of. I chose a relatively thin but rigid aluminum sheet metal. The sheet is easy to cut and bend, but makes a very rigid mount/pod for the boost gauge. At this point, it does not need to be permanently shaped into a cylinder. I simply taped both ends together with the blue tape as shown. The second image below compares how the boost gauge sits with template #5, vs the previous photoshop.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0014.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0015.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0014.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0015.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:48 AM |
Final cuts: outer bezel
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Finally, cut the outer bezel per the marked outlines described in the previous steps. The resulting cuts allow the boost gauge + pod to be partially recessed & integrated into the speedo/tach cluster.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0017.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0017.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:52 AM |
Final pod
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The final pod is copied from template #5, being a bit more careful with the cutting to make sure the edges are not jagged, and making sure that the sheet metal is bent gradually to generate a smooth, cylindrical curve. The full cylinder shape is made by clamping the 2 ends together in the manner shown in the insert of the image below. Aluminum this thin will break off if bent back and forth several times, so be sure to practice the seemingly simple seam prior to the final pod. (or keep making one until it works out).
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0018.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0018.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:56 AM |
Final pics
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Left closeup. The boost gauge pod obstructs the redline area of the tach. However, the needle can pass through as the pod does not go all the way to the tach's dial surface.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0020.jpg[/IMG]
Closeup of the PVC pipe overlap. Careful cutting & sanding is required here.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0021.jpg[/IMG]
View from outside of driver's side. Hopefully looks reasonably oem.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0022.jpg[/IMG]
Pedestrian's view when walking nearby, looking in through the passenger side. The boost gauge is barely noticeable.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0023.jpg[/IMG]
End of writeup.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0020.jpg[/IMG]
Closeup of the PVC pipe overlap. Careful cutting & sanding is required here.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0021.jpg[/IMG]
View from outside of driver's side. Hopefully looks reasonably oem.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0022.jpg[/IMG]
Pedestrian's view when walking nearby, looking in through the passenger side. The boost gauge is barely noticeable.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV4/v4_0023.jpg[/IMG]
End of writeup.
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:57 AM |
[QUOTE=thesmokingman]Nice project.[/QUOTE]
Thank you.
Thank you.
| Lachlan | 01-26-2005 12:57 AM |
I dunno, if you want to mount a pod so 0 psi is horizontal I'd get an omori or similar gauge. It just looks messy tilted like that.
| Blue Rabbit 02 | 01-26-2005 01:16 AM |
the DIY king strikes again! well done.... sometimes i think you just do mods to show-off. well done
| garie | 01-26-2005 05:40 AM |
wow...very nice work and very good writeup!
| subaru mike | 01-26-2005 07:47 AM |
Nice :cool:
| pezman04wrx | 01-26-2005 07:55 AM |
Cool ... Looks like it was made that way ... :D ... Don't mind the tilted gauge myself ... I find it helpful sometimes if you can simply glance at the gauge and see that the needle is straight up ... Makes it easier to read at a glance ... Good job ...
| psyber_0ptix | 01-26-2005 08:18 AM |
wow i hope you dont tach up that high lol...
would hte needle hit?
would hte needle hit?
| iguanamafia | 01-26-2005 10:03 AM |
Wow thats ballsy, I would be scared to ruin the big money OEM gauge cluster.
Nice job.Looks good, but as someone else mentioned it is kind of odd looking at the orientation of the gauge.
Iggy
Nice job.Looks good, but as someone else mentioned it is kind of odd looking at the orientation of the gauge.
Iggy
| satrya | 01-26-2005 10:18 AM |
garie, subaru mike, pezman04wrx ... thanks for the feedback
[QUOTE=Lachlan]I dunno, if you want to mount a pod so 0 psi is horizontal I'd get an omori or similar gauge. It just looks messy tilted like that.[/QUOTE]
Yes. Actually, there's another reason for that. The open space to the right of the tach is very tight, and given the recessed location, the mechanical boost gauge has to be tilted for the hose to clear. The horizontal 0 psi is so that the tilt somewhat makes sense. :)
[QUOTE=Blue Rabbit 02]sometimes i think you just do mods to show-off. well done[/QUOTE]
:) honestly, I thought since the DIY is doable and it hasn't been done in this specific way, perhaps I might encourage others to give it a try.
[QUOTE=psyber_0ptix]wow i hope you dont tach up that high lol...
would hte needle hit?[/QUOTE]
No. The boost gauge pod does not extend all the way to the surface. It ends just enough to clear the needle should it go past the redline.
[QUOTE=iguanamafia]Wow thats ballsy, I would be scared to ruin the big money OEM gauge cluster.[/QUOTE]
Actually, I wouldn't do that either. The OEM cluster, apart from the inner & outer bezels, are completely intact. With replacement inner & outer bezels, the cluster is completely back to oem spec. I don't do irreversible mods.
[QUOTE=Lachlan]I dunno, if you want to mount a pod so 0 psi is horizontal I'd get an omori or similar gauge. It just looks messy tilted like that.[/QUOTE]
Yes. Actually, there's another reason for that. The open space to the right of the tach is very tight, and given the recessed location, the mechanical boost gauge has to be tilted for the hose to clear. The horizontal 0 psi is so that the tilt somewhat makes sense. :)
[QUOTE=Blue Rabbit 02]sometimes i think you just do mods to show-off. well done[/QUOTE]
:) honestly, I thought since the DIY is doable and it hasn't been done in this specific way, perhaps I might encourage others to give it a try.
[QUOTE=psyber_0ptix]wow i hope you dont tach up that high lol...
would hte needle hit?[/QUOTE]
No. The boost gauge pod does not extend all the way to the surface. It ends just enough to clear the needle should it go past the redline.
[QUOTE=iguanamafia]Wow thats ballsy, I would be scared to ruin the big money OEM gauge cluster.[/QUOTE]
Actually, I wouldn't do that either. The OEM cluster, apart from the inner & outer bezels, are completely intact. With replacement inner & outer bezels, the cluster is completely back to oem spec. I don't do irreversible mods.
| psyber_0ptix | 01-26-2005 10:23 AM |
coolness, props to custom work!
| satrya | 01-26-2005 12:00 PM |
[QUOTE=psyber_0ptix]coolness, props to custom work![/QUOTE]
Thanks.
Thanks.
| mems3 | 09-01-2009 12:58 AM |
any pics of this?
| ejicon | 09-01-2009 01:13 AM |
same here... interested in pix
| litowrx | 09-01-2009 01:28 AM |
yeah... welcome to 4 years later :lol:
| mems3 | 09-01-2009 02:01 AM |
i know but its still curious
| silverF4turbo | 09-01-2009 02:05 AM |
unrelated find while I was trying to google what it looked like
this is not the 997 style boost gauge but it's german (sort of) + h0t
[img]http://www.dubtuning.com/shop/images/AWE_ventgauge_A3.jpg[/img]
someone get on this!
this is not the 997 style boost gauge but it's german (sort of) + h0t
[img]http://www.dubtuning.com/shop/images/AWE_ventgauge_A3.jpg[/img]
someone get on this!
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