| MattSTi | 07-16-2005 10:49 PM |
Recommendations for swaybar setting at track day
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Before a recent track weekend, I installed both front and rear whiteline adjustable swaybars and endlinks. For my first event I decided to leave both of the bars on the softest setting. The car felt great, pretty close to neutral, along with my JIC FLT-A2 setup. However, I'm wondering how I should go about trying the other settings for my next track event. Would it make sense to go up 1 notch on both the front and rear at the same time? What would be the best/safest way to go about adjusting my swaybars at the track?
Thanks
-Matt
Thanks
-Matt
| snoboardr4life | 07-17-2005 02:26 AM |
GOD NO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Any change like that before going to the track is stupid. What happens when you're flying down the straits at 100+ and you have to turn with a car you used to know how it handled but you're not used to anymore???
One setting firmer on the sway bars is DRASTIC. My wrx has perrin bars on it, the softest setting is firmer than stock (not by much) On the hardest setting the back is so stiff I can get the rear to slide out everywhere :devil: I leave it in the middle.
The front I put on the Firm setting and left it there. Turn in is sharp, steering is precise, and the front doesn't push anymore. I'm happy with that.
Try this - change the front first, then drive it for a week to get used to how the car handles. Now change the rear and drive it for a week. Now you know what each change does to the car and how hard you can push it SAFELY. You also know what you like as far as handling goes so you can adjust the bars to how you drive. I just don't want to hear about another sti wreck on a track.
Any change like that before going to the track is stupid. What happens when you're flying down the straits at 100+ and you have to turn with a car you used to know how it handled but you're not used to anymore???
One setting firmer on the sway bars is DRASTIC. My wrx has perrin bars on it, the softest setting is firmer than stock (not by much) On the hardest setting the back is so stiff I can get the rear to slide out everywhere :devil: I leave it in the middle.
The front I put on the Firm setting and left it there. Turn in is sharp, steering is precise, and the front doesn't push anymore. I'm happy with that.
Try this - change the front first, then drive it for a week to get used to how the car handles. Now change the rear and drive it for a week. Now you know what each change does to the car and how hard you can push it SAFELY. You also know what you like as far as handling goes so you can adjust the bars to how you drive. I just don't want to hear about another sti wreck on a track.
| Arnie | 07-17-2005 03:04 AM |
[QUOTE=snoboardr4life]GOD NO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Any change like that before going to the track is stupid. What happens when you're flying down the straits at 100+ and you have to turn with a car you used to know how it handled but you're not used to anymore??? [/QUOTE]
Just because he is at the track doesn't mean he will be attacking every lap. he could also use his track time for shake down and trying different setups in a controlled environment. I would rather have him go off at the track than on the road.
However, I agree, do changes incrementally and definitely take it easy. make notes about the behavior on each setting in a notebook. If you can, make note of lap times and if there is an improvement once you've gotten adjusted to the feel of the car.
This is, assuming/hoping, you have the driver skill to appreciate the differences as well as know how to handle your car in the event of an emergncy situation.
Any change like that before going to the track is stupid. What happens when you're flying down the straits at 100+ and you have to turn with a car you used to know how it handled but you're not used to anymore??? [/QUOTE]
Just because he is at the track doesn't mean he will be attacking every lap. he could also use his track time for shake down and trying different setups in a controlled environment. I would rather have him go off at the track than on the road.
However, I agree, do changes incrementally and definitely take it easy. make notes about the behavior on each setting in a notebook. If you can, make note of lap times and if there is an improvement once you've gotten adjusted to the feel of the car.
This is, assuming/hoping, you have the driver skill to appreciate the differences as well as know how to handle your car in the event of an emergncy situation.
| MRF582 | 07-17-2005 04:21 AM |
ummm, go full stiff on both bars. i've been running 24mm/24mm F/R for a while now with zero camber in the rear and the car is decently neutral. still has the 'lack of a front LSD' push coming out of corners but anyways, what better place to setup and test your car than the track?
you could do it on the street but it's a lot safer on the track. just don't be an idiot and if for whatever reason it starts tank slapping, consider putting both feet in. other than that, you'll be fine.
you could do it on the street but it's a lot safer on the track. just don't be an idiot and if for whatever reason it starts tank slapping, consider putting both feet in. other than that, you'll be fine.
| MattSTi | 07-17-2005 11:21 AM |
I think i'll stiffen up the front first, and then try moving the rear to the middle setting for my next track event.
As Arnie said, I would much rather test this on a closed track with lots of runoff than anywhere on public roads.
-Matt
As Arnie said, I would much rather test this on a closed track with lots of runoff than anywhere on public roads.
-Matt
| slickvic | 07-17-2005 11:36 AM |
Thats an excellent idea, and I wouldn't worry too much about adjusting the swaybar and all the sudden losing control of the car, its not that dramatic. For examble currently I'm running the cusco adjustable rear on the stiffest setting with the stock front bar on tein flexs (10k/8k) and the car is easily controlled at the track and on autoxs.
| Arnie | 07-17-2005 12:21 PM |
^^^ I'd have to disagree. Don't underestimate the effect your swaybar adjustments can make. in all honesty, it can be pretty dramatic. depending on your swaybar bias (how stiff you go at either end), severe and very sudden lift throttle oversteer can occur. If you aren't ready for it and/or don't know how to handle it, you will spin. Its easy enough to spin the car at low autocross speeds with stock suspension, so be aware of that when you start to play with your setup on a road course. Carefully feel out the limits and conciously induce actions with the car, don't wait to have to react to something unexpected.
You may eventually get to the setting of full stiff on both bars, but the point is to test out the car's reactions at all the settings (if you have the time and patience). The swaybars have useful variations throughout all the adjustment ranges and full stiff is not necessarily always the best one depending on the track, conditions, tires, bumps, etc.
Just bring a set of ramps with you and adjustments are a piece of cake.
You may eventually get to the setting of full stiff on both bars, but the point is to test out the car's reactions at all the settings (if you have the time and patience). The swaybars have useful variations throughout all the adjustment ranges and full stiff is not necessarily always the best one depending on the track, conditions, tires, bumps, etc.
Just bring a set of ramps with you and adjustments are a piece of cake.
| SgWRX | 07-18-2005 12:28 AM |
Arnie, maybe i'm missing something, but ultimately doesn't it come down to the ratio between front/rear stiffness? stiffening the front without stiffening the rear would be more of a drastic change than stiffening both at the same time ie, keeping the ratio of stiffness the same?
oh, i suppose it depends on the stiffness change of the front vs. the rear. still, it's hard to argue with at least LEARNING the difference in feel of 1 change at a time - espeically when dealing with suspension.
oh, i suppose it depends on the stiffness change of the front vs. the rear. still, it's hard to argue with at least LEARNING the difference in feel of 1 change at a time - espeically when dealing with suspension.
| slickvic | 07-18-2005 12:30 AM |
[QUOTE=Arnie]^^^ I'd have to disagree. Don't underestimate the effect your swaybar adjustments can make. in all honesty, it can be pretty dramatic. depending on your swaybar bias (how stiff you go at either end), severe and very sudden lift throttle oversteer can occur. If you aren't ready for it and/or don't know how to handle it, you will spin. Its easy enough to spin the car at low autocross speeds with stock suspension, so be aware of that when you start to play with your setup on a road course. Carefully feel out the limits and conciously induce actions with the car, don't wait to have to react to something unexpected.[/QUOTE]
Yes I agree, adjust in increments, and test the results in a controlled enviornment (at the track). I'm just saying that one should not be afraid to make the adjustments because they feel that they are going to loose control of the car.
Yes I agree, adjust in increments, and test the results in a controlled enviornment (at the track). I'm just saying that one should not be afraid to make the adjustments because they feel that they are going to loose control of the car.
| snoboardr4life | 07-18-2005 12:42 AM |
Come on guys - who can actually say they would go to the track and not have a little fun with the car.
Thats why he should adjust the settings NOW before he's at the track. Driving the car on the street is a perfect way to get used to how the car handles when you are driving it MUCH slower than you would be at a track.
The changes will also seem less dramatic on the street when you aren't pushing the car to its limits.
Thats why he should adjust the settings NOW before he's at the track. Driving the car on the street is a perfect way to get used to how the car handles when you are driving it MUCH slower than you would be at a track.
The changes will also seem less dramatic on the street when you aren't pushing the car to its limits.
| Chin | 07-18-2005 12:03 PM |
[QUOTE=snoboardr4life]The changes will also seem less dramatic on the street when you aren't pushing the car to its limits.[/QUOTE]
Which is EXACTLY why it should be done in a controlled enviroment! If you are so convinced that people have no self control at the track, how is your methodolgy going to help?
Personally, I have never experienced this "whole new world" feeling when changing my rear bar one setting. There is a difference, as I have experienced, but it isn't like it is a whole new car to get used too... Just change it one setting, try it out, rinse, and repeat.
Which is EXACTLY why it should be done in a controlled enviroment! If you are so convinced that people have no self control at the track, how is your methodolgy going to help?
Personally, I have never experienced this "whole new world" feeling when changing my rear bar one setting. There is a difference, as I have experienced, but it isn't like it is a whole new car to get used too... Just change it one setting, try it out, rinse, and repeat.
| Arnie | 07-18-2005 12:52 PM |
[QUOTE=Chin]Personally, I have never experienced this "whole new world" feeling when changing my rear bar one setting. There is a difference, as I have experienced, but it isn't like it is a whole new car to get used too... Just change it one setting, try it out, rinse, and repeat.[/QUOTE]
Each setting is fairly noticeable, though not huge I agree. that's why its for fine tuning roll stiffness. However, just in case some other folk hop in this thread who are going from stock to larger swaybars, its going to be a huge difference and pretty dangerous for them to just throw on a bar and go full stiff.
[QUOTE]Arnie, maybe i'm missing something, but ultimately doesn't it come down to the ratio between front/rear stiffness? stiffening the front without stiffening the rear would be more of a drastic change than stiffening both at the same time ie, keeping the ratio of stiffness the same?[/QUOTE]
Yes, the ratio of front/rear stiffness is what can get someone in trouble. However, if you look at the stock swaybar settings, they are usually setup for a safe, understeer biased setup. So going to larger swaybars can go to a more oversteer biased setup. Most newbs are not familiar with the handling intricacies of the Impreza platform with Lift Throttle Oversteer being the most dangerous, especiall if you are not used to dealing with it. However, regardless of the ratio, increasing roll stiffness increases the relatively "snappiness" of the car. The car will react less progressively at the limit, all things being the same, than with the stock bars. The car will be less forgiving at the limit and if you don't know how to deal with it...ouch.
I'm just erring on the side of caution for people who are not accustomed to adjustable swaybars and larger swaybars. Practicing on the track, probing the cars reactions around different corners in the safety of a road course is the best way to do it. Of course you can do that on the street and most of us, me included, are "guilty" of it. However, we need to at least acknowledge the right way to do things before we throw those rules/tips to the wind.
Each setting is fairly noticeable, though not huge I agree. that's why its for fine tuning roll stiffness. However, just in case some other folk hop in this thread who are going from stock to larger swaybars, its going to be a huge difference and pretty dangerous for them to just throw on a bar and go full stiff.
[QUOTE]Arnie, maybe i'm missing something, but ultimately doesn't it come down to the ratio between front/rear stiffness? stiffening the front without stiffening the rear would be more of a drastic change than stiffening both at the same time ie, keeping the ratio of stiffness the same?[/QUOTE]
Yes, the ratio of front/rear stiffness is what can get someone in trouble. However, if you look at the stock swaybar settings, they are usually setup for a safe, understeer biased setup. So going to larger swaybars can go to a more oversteer biased setup. Most newbs are not familiar with the handling intricacies of the Impreza platform with Lift Throttle Oversteer being the most dangerous, especiall if you are not used to dealing with it. However, regardless of the ratio, increasing roll stiffness increases the relatively "snappiness" of the car. The car will react less progressively at the limit, all things being the same, than with the stock bars. The car will be less forgiving at the limit and if you don't know how to deal with it...ouch.
I'm just erring on the side of caution for people who are not accustomed to adjustable swaybars and larger swaybars. Practicing on the track, probing the cars reactions around different corners in the safety of a road course is the best way to do it. Of course you can do that on the street and most of us, me included, are "guilty" of it. However, we need to at least acknowledge the right way to do things before we throw those rules/tips to the wind.
| Chin | 07-18-2005 01:00 PM |
Agreed, Arnie.
| Element Tuning | 07-18-2005 01:37 PM |
Matt,
Try to be more specific with the handling of your car such as:
Deceleration turning: over steer
Steady state turning: neutral
Accelerating while turning: slight over steer
With this information you can get more specific advice. This is how we have our car setup and it's definitely not for a novice driver. We run a stock front sway bar and a rear bar set full stiff. Keep in mind our suspension is extremely stiff so we don�t get as much weight transfer as a street setup.
If you can get your car setup so it's neutral during steady state turning and under acceleration but it over steers under deceleration you can stiffen up the front compression or lower the rear ride height (increase front) to reduce that tendency.
As you become a more experienced driver your handling tastes will change. If you like the way the car handles now, I would increase the front and rear equally and if the car starts pushing wide and you are unable to tighten up your line, decrease the front sway bar.
Good luck!
Phil
[url]www.elementtuning.com[/url]
Try to be more specific with the handling of your car such as:
Deceleration turning: over steer
Steady state turning: neutral
Accelerating while turning: slight over steer
With this information you can get more specific advice. This is how we have our car setup and it's definitely not for a novice driver. We run a stock front sway bar and a rear bar set full stiff. Keep in mind our suspension is extremely stiff so we don�t get as much weight transfer as a street setup.
If you can get your car setup so it's neutral during steady state turning and under acceleration but it over steers under deceleration you can stiffen up the front compression or lower the rear ride height (increase front) to reduce that tendency.
As you become a more experienced driver your handling tastes will change. If you like the way the car handles now, I would increase the front and rear equally and if the car starts pushing wide and you are unable to tighten up your line, decrease the front sway bar.
Good luck!
Phil
[url]www.elementtuning.com[/url]
| SgWRX | 07-18-2005 06:37 PM |
Arnie, good points! As a matter of fact, it's always in the back of my mind about what might happen when i'm cruising down the highway and have to take sudden action with all the changes. time and practice.
| GarySheehan | 07-18-2005 07:18 PM |
[QUOTE=snoboardr4life]GOD NO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Any change like that before going to the track is stupid. What happens when you're flying down the straits at 100+ and you have to turn with a car you used to know how it handled but you're not used to anymore??? [/QUOTE]
That statement is a bit overly dramatic. If you are going to go out on a racetrack your first lap or two should be at a fairly leisurely pace in order to notice any changes to the track surface AND ensure everything is OK with your car. Then, with changes to your set-up, the driver will begin to explore the handling of the car.
You can safely experiment with MASSIVE changes to set-up if you work your way into it. It's safer and more productive to experiment on the track than on the street.
Gary
Sheehan Motor Racing
[url]www.teamSMR.com[/url]
Any change like that before going to the track is stupid. What happens when you're flying down the straits at 100+ and you have to turn with a car you used to know how it handled but you're not used to anymore??? [/QUOTE]
That statement is a bit overly dramatic. If you are going to go out on a racetrack your first lap or two should be at a fairly leisurely pace in order to notice any changes to the track surface AND ensure everything is OK with your car. Then, with changes to your set-up, the driver will begin to explore the handling of the car.
You can safely experiment with MASSIVE changes to set-up if you work your way into it. It's safer and more productive to experiment on the track than on the street.
Gary
Sheehan Motor Racing
[url]www.teamSMR.com[/url]
| MattSTi | 07-18-2005 07:43 PM |
Wow, thanks a lot guys, very very informative replies. I'm cautious on the track usually, but I will definitely take extra caution when making changes (I think I will try out both front and rear on the middle setting next). I would say that right now my car's handling characteristics are:
Off throttle - mild oversteer
Steady state - close to neutral but with a hint of understeer
On throttle - slight oversteer
In the future I will really focus on taking notes, as a lot of these observations get lost in the blur of a track day.
Thanks again,
Matt
Off throttle - mild oversteer
Steady state - close to neutral but with a hint of understeer
On throttle - slight oversteer
In the future I will really focus on taking notes, as a lot of these observations get lost in the blur of a track day.
Thanks again,
Matt
| GarySheehan | 07-18-2005 08:16 PM |
If you're serious about notes, take notes after every session and detail braking, turn-in, corner entry, apex and corner-exit handling characteristics. Your car will not behave the same in all corners.
Then when you make changes and you take notes the next time at the same track, you can see exactly where the changes impacted handling and laptimes.
Gary
Sheehan Motor Racing
[url]www.teamSMR.com[/url]
Then when you make changes and you take notes the next time at the same track, you can see exactly where the changes impacted handling and laptimes.
Gary
Sheehan Motor Racing
[url]www.teamSMR.com[/url]
| Butt Dyno | 07-18-2005 09:45 PM |
Matt: what settings are you running on your coilovers? Are they off the shelf JIC's or custom valved/spring rates?
I used to run 21/24 sways, but when I put my 9k/10k JIC's on I put the rear bar on full soft (22). It felt too loose for me, so I swapped it to an 18mm. I liked that better for a while but then started stiffening the rear shocks. (I have a lot of fiddling to do yet, I might still swap the big bar back on if adjusting the damping doesn't do it for me)
Basically, IMHO it's hard to definitively give advice without knowing more about the rest of your setup.
john
I used to run 21/24 sways, but when I put my 9k/10k JIC's on I put the rear bar on full soft (22). It felt too loose for me, so I swapped it to an 18mm. I liked that better for a while but then started stiffening the rear shocks. (I have a lot of fiddling to do yet, I might still swap the big bar back on if adjusting the damping doesn't do it for me)
Basically, IMHO it's hard to definitively give advice without knowing more about the rest of your setup.
john
| GravelRash | 07-20-2005 04:53 AM |
[QUOTE=MattSTi]...I'm cautious on the track usually, but I will definitely take extra caution when making changes (I think I will try out both front and rear on the middle setting next). I would say that right now my car's handling characteristics are:
Off throttle - mild oversteer
Steady state - close to neutral but with a hint of understeer
On throttle - slight oversteer
...
Matt[/QUOTE]
So...what's not to like? :) In fact, comparing to Phil's notes you're not far off, with a bit more margin for error.
You haven't actually said what your goals are for further changes...
Off throttle - mild oversteer
Steady state - close to neutral but with a hint of understeer
On throttle - slight oversteer
...
Matt[/QUOTE]
So...what's not to like? :) In fact, comparing to Phil's notes you're not far off, with a bit more margin for error.
You haven't actually said what your goals are for further changes...
| alcrudojr #00 | 07-20-2005 10:19 AM |
I think suspension setting are diferent for each driver and specially tracks. Like Gary says take notes and do tests between heats. The most important is that you feel conftable with the car. Also keep in mind that depending on the tire you are using, air pressure and the aligment of it may also change the way the cars handles, so maybe if you just need a little adjustments you may try those other things.
My personal settings on my STI vary from a lot of my customers, I always use oem front swaybar, 24mm rear swaybar in the hardest position, front shock at half the setting and the rears at the hardest. On Aligment I use -3.25 camber front and -1.5 on the rears. Our tracks have long straights with close 2nd and 3rd gear turns. I use 245/35-18 Hoosier Tires.
My personal settings on my STI vary from a lot of my customers, I always use oem front swaybar, 24mm rear swaybar in the hardest position, front shock at half the setting and the rears at the hardest. On Aligment I use -3.25 camber front and -1.5 on the rears. Our tracks have long straights with close 2nd and 3rd gear turns. I use 245/35-18 Hoosier Tires.
| MattSTi | 07-30-2005 01:25 PM |
Sorry I haven't check back on this thread in a while.
Buttdyno- I have off the shelf 7k/5k JIC's
Well I just went to the track yesterday, and I decided to play with the dampening settings instead of the sways. I started off with the front set at 3 clicks from full stiff and rear 5 clicks from full stiff - I eventually ended up with the front at 5 clicks from full stiff and the rear at 3 from full stiff. I was able to dial out most of the understeer by adjusting the dampening and the car felt much better by the end of the day. The car will still understeer slightly, but I have found that a lot of that has to do with my driving. The car is neutral if I do not turn-in early, but sometimes when I'm off on my turn-in, the understeer becomes an issue. When hard on the throttle hard, the car kicks the tail out slightly, and it feels great. I feel that I learned a tremendous amount about my car by taking detailed notes that included hot tire pressures, dampening settings, and notes on how the car felt under different conditions (as Phil mentioned).
Next time I will put the rear bar up a notch to the middle setting and play around with my dampening a bit more. I still have a lot of room for adjustment and I think I will be able to get everything where I want it.
I appreciate everyone's input.
-matt
Buttdyno- I have off the shelf 7k/5k JIC's
Well I just went to the track yesterday, and I decided to play with the dampening settings instead of the sways. I started off with the front set at 3 clicks from full stiff and rear 5 clicks from full stiff - I eventually ended up with the front at 5 clicks from full stiff and the rear at 3 from full stiff. I was able to dial out most of the understeer by adjusting the dampening and the car felt much better by the end of the day. The car will still understeer slightly, but I have found that a lot of that has to do with my driving. The car is neutral if I do not turn-in early, but sometimes when I'm off on my turn-in, the understeer becomes an issue. When hard on the throttle hard, the car kicks the tail out slightly, and it feels great. I feel that I learned a tremendous amount about my car by taking detailed notes that included hot tire pressures, dampening settings, and notes on how the car felt under different conditions (as Phil mentioned).
Next time I will put the rear bar up a notch to the middle setting and play around with my dampening a bit more. I still have a lot of room for adjustment and I think I will be able to get everything where I want it.
I appreciate everyone's input.
-matt
| SgWRX | 07-31-2005 12:01 AM |
i think every novice to car handling is now smarter because of this post! EDIT: because yes, how you drive makes a big difference too
[QUOTE=MattSTi]Sorry I haven't check back on this thread in a while.
Buttdyno- I have off the shelf 7k/5k JIC's
Well I just went to the track yesterday, and I decided to play with the dampening settings instead of the sways. I started off with the front set at 3 clicks from full stiff and rear 5 clicks from full stiff - I eventually ended up with the front at 5 clicks from full stiff and the rear at 3 from full stiff. I was able to dial out most of the understeer by adjusting the dampening and the car felt much better by the end of the day. The car will still understeer slightly, but I have found that a lot of that has to do with my driving. The car is neutral if I do not turn-in early, but sometimes when I'm off on my turn-in, the understeer becomes an issue. When hard on the throttle hard, the car kicks the tail out slightly, and it feels great. I feel that I learned a tremendous amount about my car by taking detailed notes that included hot tire pressures, dampening settings, and notes on how the car felt under different conditions (as Phil mentioned).
Next time I will put the rear bar up a notch to the middle setting and play around with my dampening a bit more. I still have a lot of room for adjustment and I think I will be able to get everything where I want it.
I appreciate everyone's input.
-matt[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=MattSTi]Sorry I haven't check back on this thread in a while.
Buttdyno- I have off the shelf 7k/5k JIC's
Well I just went to the track yesterday, and I decided to play with the dampening settings instead of the sways. I started off with the front set at 3 clicks from full stiff and rear 5 clicks from full stiff - I eventually ended up with the front at 5 clicks from full stiff and the rear at 3 from full stiff. I was able to dial out most of the understeer by adjusting the dampening and the car felt much better by the end of the day. The car will still understeer slightly, but I have found that a lot of that has to do with my driving. The car is neutral if I do not turn-in early, but sometimes when I'm off on my turn-in, the understeer becomes an issue. When hard on the throttle hard, the car kicks the tail out slightly, and it feels great. I feel that I learned a tremendous amount about my car by taking detailed notes that included hot tire pressures, dampening settings, and notes on how the car felt under different conditions (as Phil mentioned).
Next time I will put the rear bar up a notch to the middle setting and play around with my dampening a bit more. I still have a lot of room for adjustment and I think I will be able to get everything where I want it.
I appreciate everyone's input.
-matt[/QUOTE]
| Handsdown | 09-08-2005 12:25 PM |
on an adjustable rear sway, the further the endlink is mounted from the vertex of the sway(the mounting point/sway bushing), the LESS stiff it is, correct? so if you're looking at the sway bar...
X
||
0||||||||---o1---o2---o3-H
where X= swaybar mount, H= end of swaybar, 0= place where swaybar curves from lateral to longitudinal, and o1,o2,o3 are possible endlink mounting points...
o1 would be stiffest
o2 would be medium
o3 would be softest, correct?
X
||
0||||||||---o1---o2---o3-H
where X= swaybar mount, H= end of swaybar, 0= place where swaybar curves from lateral to longitudinal, and o1,o2,o3 are possible endlink mounting points...
o1 would be stiffest
o2 would be medium
o3 would be softest, correct?
| maxpower45 | 09-08-2005 01:56 PM |
^^ That is the way I understand it. The closer the hole is to the mount, the greater the force required to flex the bar.
| sciolist | 09-08-2005 02:17 PM |
I would start with the bars by increasing the front stiffness. My suspicion is that you'll like that more. You can probably get a fairly good idea of the car's general characteristics by experimenting with f/r bar stiffness on the street beforehand.
From the safety standpoint, the thing to avoid would be increasing rear stiffness too much and then jumping right into high speed cornering.
From the safety standpoint, the thing to avoid would be increasing rear stiffness too much and then jumping right into high speed cornering.
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