| scaryfastskier | 10-13-2004 03:17 PM |
Skid plates: at what point do you need to man up to 3/16"
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This may be the wrong forum, if so please feel free to move it to a more appropriate venue.
I am going to be purchasing some underbody protection for my 02 wrx. I will be rallyXing and occasionally messing around offroad with this car.
-At what point do you need the 3/16" opposed to the 1/8"?
-Is there a massive weight difference?
-Will a skidplate affect my ability to drive in snow at all? (I envision a "sled" affect)
thanks!
grant
I am going to be purchasing some underbody protection for my 02 wrx. I will be rallyXing and occasionally messing around offroad with this car.
-At what point do you need the 3/16" opposed to the 1/8"?
-Is there a massive weight difference?
-Will a skidplate affect my ability to drive in snow at all? (I envision a "sled" affect)
thanks!
grant
| Draken | 10-13-2004 03:42 PM |
I dont see the need for the 3/16" until you get into more serious stage rallying, or you know that you'll be driving into tree stumps. I had 1/8" on my 2.5RS, and it worked great. Ran over several interesting objects in the road without problems.
Chris H.
Chris H.
| Subie Gal | 10-13-2004 03:58 PM |
i had to "man up" when i crumpled my 2nd 3/16" skid plate
all depends on what you are driving OVER and how hard you're driving :)
jamie
[url]www.subiegal.com[/url]
2003, 2004 NorPac PGT Rally Champion
all depends on what you are driving OVER and how hard you're driving :)
jamie
[url]www.subiegal.com[/url]
2003, 2004 NorPac PGT Rally Champion
| Chromer | 10-13-2004 03:58 PM |
Steel or aluminum?
For $30 and an afternoon of your time you can make a nearly indestuctible one out of plywood and sheetmetal. Mine doesn't have the sheetmetal yet - logging road rocks will (have) take(n) chunks out of it.
It might weigh 20 lbs when I'm done the final 3/4" version. I should be able to jack the car up with it. Actually, the M8 tap and a tap handle cost me more than anything else...
Ghetto fabrication R us. OTOH, my rallyx beater has cost me $535 so far. Including buying the car...
I'd suspect it might be a smidge easier to get yourself high-centered in the snow.
For $30 and an afternoon of your time you can make a nearly indestuctible one out of plywood and sheetmetal. Mine doesn't have the sheetmetal yet - logging road rocks will (have) take(n) chunks out of it.
It might weigh 20 lbs when I'm done the final 3/4" version. I should be able to jack the car up with it. Actually, the M8 tap and a tap handle cost me more than anything else...
Ghetto fabrication R us. OTOH, my rallyx beater has cost me $535 so far. Including buying the car...
I'd suspect it might be a smidge easier to get yourself high-centered in the snow.
| Subie Gal | 10-13-2004 04:09 PM |
plywood? are you serious? :confused:
i'd absolutely destroy that thing in about 1.5 miles of rallying [i] OR L E S S [/i] :lol:
seriously, for rallyx and some off road fun?
1/8" should be just fine....
if you're going to get more aggressive? beef it up :)
and dont forget your rear skids (diff protector and/gas tank) - last thing you want to do is put a hole into your gas tank! :eek: (seen it happen on a TSD rally...)
cheers
Jamie
i'd absolutely destroy that thing in about 1.5 miles of rallying [i] OR L E S S [/i] :lol:
seriously, for rallyx and some off road fun?
1/8" should be just fine....
if you're going to get more aggressive? beef it up :)
and dont forget your rear skids (diff protector and/gas tank) - last thing you want to do is put a hole into your gas tank! :eek: (seen it happen on a TSD rally...)
cheers
Jamie
| Rallycarperson | 10-13-2004 04:20 PM |
Yeah, as Jamie said unless your gonna ProRally it, 1/8 will be fine.
I had a friend that ran the PBX road rally without any skidplate and...well...yeah. :lol:
-Mark
MAPmotors.com
I had a friend that ran the PBX road rally without any skidplate and...well...yeah. :lol:
-Mark
MAPmotors.com
| Chromer | 10-13-2004 04:24 PM |
[QUOTE=Subie Gal]plywood? are you serious? :confused:[/QUOTE]
Well I'm not suggesting he run Rim or MFR with it, but it IS a quick 'n' dirty low-buck solution for non-rally use.
Well I'm not suggesting he run Rim or MFR with it, but it IS a quick 'n' dirty low-buck solution for non-rally use.
| scaryfastskier | 10-13-2004 05:24 PM |
Where can I get the rear gas-tank skid plate?
I am getting the primitive front and rear-diff protectors I think. I contacted primitive, and the weight difference is ~7.5lbs, and the price difference is around $40. Even though it sounds like I don't need the bigger set for now, the cost/weight increase is so minimal its hard not to upgrade. Any reason not to?
grant
ps i am allready in open class, so don't worry about any restrictions
pps sorry jamie, perhaps "man-up" wasn't the best phrase to use in your domain :lol: oops
I am getting the primitive front and rear-diff protectors I think. I contacted primitive, and the weight difference is ~7.5lbs, and the price difference is around $40. Even though it sounds like I don't need the bigger set for now, the cost/weight increase is so minimal its hard not to upgrade. Any reason not to?
grant
ps i am allready in open class, so don't worry about any restrictions
pps sorry jamie, perhaps "man-up" wasn't the best phrase to use in your domain :lol: oops
| Gravel Spray | 10-13-2004 05:34 PM |
if you are "going off road", use 1/4". And have it made to mount correctly.
| Subie Gal | 10-13-2004 05:44 PM |
you cannot just buy gas tank skids - ya gotta fabricate them
I use high density plastic... about 1/4" thick - weighs very little
cut and fit over the gas tank
Each and every time i get my RS up on a lift i CRINGE at how lucky i got when TSD/Rallycrossing that car... there are massive dents in the gas tank... i lucked out and had no idea i was even at a risk :) I mean i was "just" rallycrossing and "just" running a few gravel roads....
best to be safe than sorry with a chaching $$$$ gas tank repair ahead of you :)
best off searching in your region for a plastics supplier
good luck :)
Jamie
I use high density plastic... about 1/4" thick - weighs very little
cut and fit over the gas tank
Each and every time i get my RS up on a lift i CRINGE at how lucky i got when TSD/Rallycrossing that car... there are massive dents in the gas tank... i lucked out and had no idea i was even at a risk :) I mean i was "just" rallycrossing and "just" running a few gravel roads....
best to be safe than sorry with a chaching $$$$ gas tank repair ahead of you :)
best off searching in your region for a plastics supplier
good luck :)
Jamie
| patr | 10-14-2004 01:28 AM |
Jamie, lots of people sell gas tank protectors
I have aluminum tig welded gas tank skid plates in stock, as used my many Canadian rallyists. Rally tough.
$400 canadian for a set, includes both left and right hand side. Mounts directly to rear subframe and floor. Price does not include hardware, which differs depending on model year.
I have carbon kevlar gas tank proctetors also available (special order from Japan), price depends on quantity.
Call 604 892 0151 if you are interested or email me for pics. I dont reply often to the board, so email or call if you really want one.
-Pat
I have aluminum tig welded gas tank skid plates in stock, as used my many Canadian rallyists. Rally tough.
$400 canadian for a set, includes both left and right hand side. Mounts directly to rear subframe and floor. Price does not include hardware, which differs depending on model year.
I have carbon kevlar gas tank proctetors also available (special order from Japan), price depends on quantity.
Call 604 892 0151 if you are interested or email me for pics. I dont reply often to the board, so email or call if you really want one.
-Pat
| orbit03 | 10-14-2004 08:21 AM |
Pfft. Aluminum isn't manning up. heh. We build our own Kevlar plates. Haven't been able to break one yet. :D ;)
| speedyHAM | 10-14-2004 11:30 AM |
How thick of a section do you make your kevlar plates? Anything thinner than 1/4" I can see breaking pretty easy at LSPR. And how much do they cost?
Chromer- the real problem with plywood is that if you get even a small oil leak the exhaust manifold will heat the oil soaked plywood and burn your car to the ground. Not a real good idea. If you are in a situation where you need a skidplate, you are also in a position to crack/ loosen and oil fitting or line, not to mention the oil pan itself.
Chromer- the real problem with plywood is that if you get even a small oil leak the exhaust manifold will heat the oil soaked plywood and burn your car to the ground. Not a real good idea. If you are in a situation where you need a skidplate, you are also in a position to crack/ loosen and oil fitting or line, not to mention the oil pan itself.
| sirfrankwilliams | 10-14-2004 09:38 PM |
[QUOTE=patr]lots of people sell gas tank protectors[/QUOTE]
I've done a fruitless google search for other sellers. Anyone know of other places to buy gas tank skid plates?
I've done a fruitless google search for other sellers. Anyone know of other places to buy gas tank skid plates?
| krillz | 10-14-2004 10:03 PM |
[url]www.rallyarmor.com[/url] has some that i was very impressed with
| GooseMan | 10-14-2004 10:04 PM |
back when I was making skidplates for the WRX, It was made from 3/16". They were quite large, but they weighed in at around 17 lbs. ;)
| orbit03 | 10-14-2004 10:25 PM |
[QUOTE=speedyHAM]How thick of a section do you make your kevlar plates? Anything thinner than 1/4" I can see breaking pretty easy at LSPR. And how much do they cost?
Chromer- the real problem with plywood is that if you get even a small oil leak the exhaust manifold will heat the oil soaked plywood and burn your car to the ground. Not a real good idea. If you are in a situation where you need a skidplate, you are also in a position to crack/ loosen and oil fitting or line, not to mention the oil pan itself.[/QUOTE]
The thickness varies across the skid plate depending on what is above it. :) The min thickness is about 3/16" to 1/4", the thicker sections may have a little carbon and/or core material to give a stiffer section. Up to about 1/2" or so under the important bits. We've hit some serious stuff at speed and haven't done much damage. Cost wise for a VW (the latest ones we've made) is around $400.
Chromer- the real problem with plywood is that if you get even a small oil leak the exhaust manifold will heat the oil soaked plywood and burn your car to the ground. Not a real good idea. If you are in a situation where you need a skidplate, you are also in a position to crack/ loosen and oil fitting or line, not to mention the oil pan itself.[/QUOTE]
The thickness varies across the skid plate depending on what is above it. :) The min thickness is about 3/16" to 1/4", the thicker sections may have a little carbon and/or core material to give a stiffer section. Up to about 1/2" or so under the important bits. We've hit some serious stuff at speed and haven't done much damage. Cost wise for a VW (the latest ones we've made) is around $400.
| Subie Gal | 10-15-2004 01:05 PM |
[QUOTE=patr]Jamie, lots of people sell gas tank protectors
I have aluminum tig welded gas tank skid plates in stock, as used my many Canadian rallyists. Rally tough.
$400 canadian for a set, includes both left and right hand side. Mounts directly to rear subframe and floor. Price does not include hardware, which differs depending on model year.
I have carbon kevlar gas tank proctetors also available (special order from Japan), price depends on quantity.
Call 604 892 0151 if you are interested or email me for pics. I dont reply often to the board, so email or call if you really want one.
-Pat[/QUOTE]
SWEET thanks Pat! :)
didnt even THINK about the Kevlar plates, i mean i knew they existed...
but damn the price to hell i say!!! :lol: (Ill just add it to the 'someday when i'm rich' list... )
cheers
Jam~
I have aluminum tig welded gas tank skid plates in stock, as used my many Canadian rallyists. Rally tough.
$400 canadian for a set, includes both left and right hand side. Mounts directly to rear subframe and floor. Price does not include hardware, which differs depending on model year.
I have carbon kevlar gas tank proctetors also available (special order from Japan), price depends on quantity.
Call 604 892 0151 if you are interested or email me for pics. I dont reply often to the board, so email or call if you really want one.
-Pat[/QUOTE]
SWEET thanks Pat! :)
didnt even THINK about the Kevlar plates, i mean i knew they existed...
but damn the price to hell i say!!! :lol: (Ill just add it to the 'someday when i'm rich' list... )
cheers
Jam~
| JC_595 | 10-15-2004 02:41 PM |
[QUOTE=patr]Jamie, lots of people sell gas tank protectors
I have aluminum tig welded gas tank skid plates in stock, as used my many Canadian rallyists. Rally tough.
$400 canadian for a set, includes both left and right hand side. Mounts directly to rear subframe and floor. Price does not include hardware, which differs depending on model year.
I have carbon kevlar gas tank proctetors also available (special order from Japan), price depends on quantity.
Call 604 892 0151 if you are interested or email me for pics. I dont reply often to the board, so email or call if you really want one.
-Pat[/QUOTE]
Hey Pat-
Roush is starting to make Carbon/Kevlar skids now too, here is MI. Equivelent in nature to the Prodrive ones. Frnt skid, rear skid, half shaft covers, R&L floor pan skids too. I didnt design a fuel tank skid for them though... Maybe I should get on that, I just figured for ~$400, a person would switch to a fuel cell...
If you (or anyone) is interested, PM me for the contact info.
I will have a full set next month & in use for S*D 05 if anyone wants to see em.
JC
I have aluminum tig welded gas tank skid plates in stock, as used my many Canadian rallyists. Rally tough.
$400 canadian for a set, includes both left and right hand side. Mounts directly to rear subframe and floor. Price does not include hardware, which differs depending on model year.
I have carbon kevlar gas tank proctetors also available (special order from Japan), price depends on quantity.
Call 604 892 0151 if you are interested or email me for pics. I dont reply often to the board, so email or call if you really want one.
-Pat[/QUOTE]
Hey Pat-
Roush is starting to make Carbon/Kevlar skids now too, here is MI. Equivelent in nature to the Prodrive ones. Frnt skid, rear skid, half shaft covers, R&L floor pan skids too. I didnt design a fuel tank skid for them though... Maybe I should get on that, I just figured for ~$400, a person would switch to a fuel cell...
If you (or anyone) is interested, PM me for the contact info.
I will have a full set next month & in use for S*D 05 if anyone wants to see em.
JC
| PeterJ | 10-15-2004 08:23 PM |
For your purposes, I dont think that there will be a large benefit in going to 3/16, and most of the stuff available out there is made of cheap 3000 or 5000 series aluminum, and it bends fairly easily. Ive made mine out of 1/8 thick 6061-T651 and have slightly bent it too. I think that if your hardcore rallying, then 1/4 is the way to go, but if your just rally crossing or may be running over road debris like truck tires and roadkill then a well designed 1/8 sheet will do. Search for "Rally Skidplate" in the forum archives to get more info (hopefully the pics still work). As far as getting stuck in the snow, some people say that its worse to have one. But, I think that all of the times that I have gotten stuck, I probably would have anyway; so why not protect my headers, oil pan and PS lines etc...
| PabloEscobar'd | 10-15-2004 11:09 PM |
wow, this thread has proven interesting, I thought the most a skid plate could handle would be the thin aluminum, (for deflection) otherwise if it were made of heavy fabrication it would bend the car frame, IIRC????
Im looking at a few skidplates as well, I was eyeballing a rallyarmor one..
Im curious to see how it would handle in the snow? wouldnt snow trap over the plate under the car and aid rust????
Im looking at a few skidplates as well, I was eyeballing a rallyarmor one..
Im curious to see how it would handle in the snow? wouldnt snow trap over the plate under the car and aid rust????
| thechickencow | 10-15-2004 11:10 PM |
I haven't had snow trapped above my front skid, but it probably melts up in there. The rear diff guard I got from duffguard fills up a bit with mud though if you're in deep stuff.
| Costas | 10-16-2004 12:50 AM |
Snow wont stay up there, its completely covered,
heres the rallyarmor one:
[IMG]http://www.rallyarmor.com/images/skidplates/wrx_sti_front.jpg[/IMG]
Too stiff is bad for your frame, "softer" metals work better for applications like these because they will give just enough...
heres the rallyarmor one:
[IMG]http://www.rallyarmor.com/images/skidplates/wrx_sti_front.jpg[/IMG]
Too stiff is bad for your frame, "softer" metals work better for applications like these because they will give just enough...
| Protege Menace | 10-16-2004 05:04 AM |
[QUOTE=Rallycarperson]Yeah, as Jamie said unless your gonna ProRally it, 1/8 will be fine.
I had a friend that ran the PBX road rally without any skidplate and...well...yeah. :lol:
-Mark
MAPmotors.com[/QUOTE]
what about club rally.....
when we got high centered on a BOULDER at ojibwe, it was out skid plate that kept our engine intact, and once another rallyer pulled us off we finished the entire race due to that diomond plating under our engine.
I had a friend that ran the PBX road rally without any skidplate and...well...yeah. :lol:
-Mark
MAPmotors.com[/QUOTE]
what about club rally.....
when we got high centered on a BOULDER at ojibwe, it was out skid plate that kept our engine intact, and once another rallyer pulled us off we finished the entire race due to that diomond plating under our engine.
| JC_595 | 12-06-2004 07:30 PM |
OK-
Roush now has Kevlar skids avail-
-Belly pans
-Front skids
-Half shaft covers
-Rear skid
-Fuel tank covers
I have a few pics of them at my site:
[url]http://www.gnimotorsports.com/Kevlar_underbody_pics.htm[/url]
And, I have a full set of the production ones to sell this week at a discount- anyone interested email or PM me-
JC
Roush now has Kevlar skids avail-
-Belly pans
-Front skids
-Half shaft covers
-Rear skid
-Fuel tank covers
I have a few pics of them at my site:
[url]http://www.gnimotorsports.com/Kevlar_underbody_pics.htm[/url]
And, I have a full set of the production ones to sell this week at a discount- anyone interested email or PM me-
JC
| LyveWRX | 12-07-2004 08:27 AM |
Thanks...
On POR this year Smith/Jensen holed the fuel tank in their Focus... The were in front of me and I could see the fuel pouring out of their tank....
(how much? (just the fuel tank covers))
On POR this year Smith/Jensen holed the fuel tank in their Focus... The were in front of me and I could see the fuel pouring out of their tank....
(how much? (just the fuel tank covers))
| JC_595 | 12-07-2004 01:24 PM |
UPDATE:
THe prototype parts are SOLD. But...
I have the production parts this week for sale. 1 full set. Need money to complete the car for S*D, so my rush is your gain. Get the production quality parts for wholesale costs.
-Belly skid set (R & L)= $600 (retail $1800)
-Front skid (mounts with or without the black US subframe)= $250 (retail $375-ish)
-Rear skid= $150 (retail $200)
-Fuel tank cover set (R&L)= $175 (retail $275-ish)
-Rear half shaft cover set (R&L)= $100 (retail $175-ish)
These should go fast. Gimme an email at jcirisan AT faac DOT com
I take Paypal.
$1200 + shipping for the whole lot.
JC
#595
[url]www.gnimotorsports.com[/url]
PS- I just cut/pasted cuz I am in a hurry... Basically this set is my personal 2nd set to offset my time/effort to help Roush with the design work/testing. I believe Chaste Auto [url]http://www.chasteauto.com[/url] will be distributing them if anyone is interested- call Jeff. THe retail guesstimates are not set in stone yet(could be more or less, I dont know), but I am blowing these out to fund the completion of the PGT car before SnoDrift.
PLEASE PM or EM me- I dont get a chance to check this forum much with my day job...
:)
THe prototype parts are SOLD. But...
I have the production parts this week for sale. 1 full set. Need money to complete the car for S*D, so my rush is your gain. Get the production quality parts for wholesale costs.
-Belly skid set (R & L)= $600 (retail $1800)
-Front skid (mounts with or without the black US subframe)= $250 (retail $375-ish)
-Rear skid= $150 (retail $200)
-Fuel tank cover set (R&L)= $175 (retail $275-ish)
-Rear half shaft cover set (R&L)= $100 (retail $175-ish)
These should go fast. Gimme an email at jcirisan AT faac DOT com
I take Paypal.
$1200 + shipping for the whole lot.
JC
#595
[url]www.gnimotorsports.com[/url]
PS- I just cut/pasted cuz I am in a hurry... Basically this set is my personal 2nd set to offset my time/effort to help Roush with the design work/testing. I believe Chaste Auto [url]http://www.chasteauto.com[/url] will be distributing them if anyone is interested- call Jeff. THe retail guesstimates are not set in stone yet(could be more or less, I dont know), but I am blowing these out to fund the completion of the PGT car before SnoDrift.
PLEASE PM or EM me- I dont get a chance to check this forum much with my day job...
:)
| WickedSTI | 12-07-2004 04:46 PM |
Looks like strong built skids i would like to see how they mount.I see your front in the pic has a bar in the rear from one side of sub to the outher.Is that part needed for the mount?I know you are bizzy but if you could post some pics with all the parts on car and show how they all bolt up.Once again i like the look of your parts and am glad to see someone in the USA building parts like these i hope you get many orders for your time you spent on these.Thanks for any help you can give us.Brad :banana: :banana:
| JC_595 | 12-07-2004 06:55 PM |
The front skid uses the two bolts at the front of the core support bottom in front, and then 2 bolts from the Black subrframe piece.
You do not need the rear tie bar to use the skid, but I installed it to do three things:
1) make removal/install of the skid easier/quiker during services(one person can do it easily by hooking the rear of the front skid, and bolting the front bolts in place.
2) add addtl support for the rear of the skid
3) tie the subframe together with another adjustable point
You can also use the skid wihtout the Black US mandated subframe(that's just dead weight anyway). You would then have to make at least on addtl crossmember up by the oil pan tho...
Thanx
JC
You do not need the rear tie bar to use the skid, but I installed it to do three things:
1) make removal/install of the skid easier/quiker during services(one person can do it easily by hooking the rear of the front skid, and bolting the front bolts in place.
2) add addtl support for the rear of the skid
3) tie the subframe together with another adjustable point
You can also use the skid wihtout the Black US mandated subframe(that's just dead weight anyway). You would then have to make at least on addtl crossmember up by the oil pan tho...
Thanx
JC
| orbit03 | 12-07-2004 07:51 PM |
JC and gang, if they don't make a specific part/plate you want, PM me. I can make custom parts.
| AJ711 | 12-07-2004 10:27 PM |
Edit: Nevermind, newer body style specific. Nothing applicable to the GC body style.
AJ
AJ
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