| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:03 AM |
Smoked speedo/tach cluster faceplate DIY
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This is a simple DIY that replaces the opaque speedo/tach cluster faceplate with a smoked one. The result looks as shown in the picture below. The various instrument indicator (for handbrake, ABS, battery, oil, doors, etc) are invisible until lit. They are hidden behind the smoked acrylic sheet that serves as the new faceplate.
The following few posts summarize the general steps.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash_3.jpg[/IMG]
The following few posts summarize the general steps.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash_3.jpg[/IMG]
| elijah25rs | 08-09-2004 11:06 AM |
... :huh:
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:07 AM |
Parts & Tools
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The required parts are:
(1) 1/8" smoked acrylic sheet (about 6 x 14")
(2) Several matching diameter PVC pipes or hoses (described later) for the trim rings
(3) Small machine screws (better than self taping screw for attaching the trim rings to the brittle and thin acrylic sheet).
(4) Paint (for the trim rings)
(5) Original instrument indicator overlay (for the turn signal, brakes, ABS, etc) from the oem faceplate.
(6) Electrical tape
The required tools are:
(a) Hole cutter --> essential for making nice clean holes for the speedo, tach , & fuel - water temp openings
(b) Drum sander --> to smooth out cut edges
(c) Hacksaw, or better yet, a router. --> to cut the acrylic faceplate
(d) Drill bits
(e) Power drill that is compatible with (a), (b), & (d) above.
(1) 1/8" smoked acrylic sheet (about 6 x 14")
(2) Several matching diameter PVC pipes or hoses (described later) for the trim rings
(3) Small machine screws (better than self taping screw for attaching the trim rings to the brittle and thin acrylic sheet).
(4) Paint (for the trim rings)
(5) Original instrument indicator overlay (for the turn signal, brakes, ABS, etc) from the oem faceplate.
(6) Electrical tape
The required tools are:
(a) Hole cutter --> essential for making nice clean holes for the speedo, tach , & fuel - water temp openings
(b) Drum sander --> to smooth out cut edges
(c) Hacksaw, or better yet, a router. --> to cut the acrylic faceplate
(d) Drill bits
(e) Power drill that is compatible with (a), (b), & (d) above.
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:12 AM |
background
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This is not so relevant to the DIY process, but prior to this, having driven with the following speedo/tach cluster and center analog clock DIY, the chosen color and the angle of the analog clock panel/trim resulted in uncomfortable glare from sunlight in certain conditions.
(See the following thread for the center vent panel DIY for the analog clock: [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352814[/url] )
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash200.jpg[/IMG]
So I fixed the clock's position by adding a pvc pipe that was angle cut much like many gauge pods are, and changed the trim color to a metallic flaked-black. Now the speedo/tach's silver color scheme no longer match. Time for another DIY.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/v3pod001.jpg[/IMG]
(See the following thread for the center vent panel DIY for the analog clock: [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352814[/url] )
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash200.jpg[/IMG]
So I fixed the clock's position by adding a pvc pipe that was angle cut much like many gauge pods are, and changed the trim color to a metallic flaked-black. Now the speedo/tach's silver color scheme no longer match. Time for another DIY.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/v3pod001.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:14 AM |
[QUOTE=elijah25rs]... :huh:[/QUOTE]
What's wrong?
What's wrong?
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:16 AM |
Find matching diameter PVC pipes / tubes
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It is not difficult to find matching PVC material for this DIY. An example is shown in the picture below.
Note the silver faceplate (my ver.2) to be replaced by the smoked faceplate (ver.3).
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash300.jpg[/IMG]
Note the silver faceplate (my ver.2) to be replaced by the smoked faceplate (ver.3).
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash300.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:18 AM |
Measure, cut, and smooth out edges
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With pipes that have matching inner & outer diameter, cut to proper height, and use the drum sander to smooth out the edges. Having a vice and something rigid to clamp on to helps speed things up.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash301.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash301.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:26 AM |
Acrylic sheet
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Next, using the oem faceplate, trace a pattern for the acrylic replacement. Cut the outline of the faceplate first, then use the hole cutter to cut the 3 large holes. It is best to cut the center hole first imho, and then carefully cut the other 2. At this point, the acrylic can easily crack if handled carelessly.
The picture below shows the acrylic sheet, with the protective masking tape still on (light brown color), and with the cut PVC pipes bolted on to the acrylic using several miniature machine screws. Drill a hole for the odometer stalk/button.
As a side note, smoked acrylic is relatively easy to find. Afaik, it would be more difficult to find smoked polycarbonate or other smoked plastic. In addition, acrylic has a very good optical clarity. The downside to acrylic is that it is more brittle than, for example, ABS plastic. Care must be taken when drilling or cutting. Acrylic can be found from [url]www.mcmaster.com[/url] , or [url]www.tapplastics.com[/url] . Tap Plastics also have some local stores.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash302.jpg[/IMG]
The picture below shows the acrylic sheet, with the protective masking tape still on (light brown color), and with the cut PVC pipes bolted on to the acrylic using several miniature machine screws. Drill a hole for the odometer stalk/button.
As a side note, smoked acrylic is relatively easy to find. Afaik, it would be more difficult to find smoked polycarbonate or other smoked plastic. In addition, acrylic has a very good optical clarity. The downside to acrylic is that it is more brittle than, for example, ABS plastic. Care must be taken when drilling or cutting. Acrylic can be found from [url]www.mcmaster.com[/url] , or [url]www.tapplastics.com[/url] . Tap Plastics also have some local stores.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash302.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:29 AM |
Overlapping gauge trim
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Given the available PVC pipes and tubes, it was impossible for the gauge trims not to overlap one another. As can be seen in the picture below, the center trim's outer diameter extends slightly beyond the side trim's inner diameter. This requires trimming off the offending pieces. The picture below also shows 2 additional small PVC pipes that is also slightly overlapped.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash303.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash303.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:35 AM |
Extra mini gauges
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Adding gauge mounts that try to blend in with the DIY faceplate makes sense at this point, especially if you have mini gauges. They give you the information needed and do not take much space. These are 1 1/2" electrical gauges.
As it is, the gauges do not blend in with the new color scheme (see the right hand side of the picture below). A simple mod similar to shown in [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359679[/url] makes them look closer to the new color scheme. Yellow needles and some silver accent. Masking the "Auto_gage" lettering makes them look more oem imho.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash304.jpg[/IMG]
As it is, the gauges do not blend in with the new color scheme (see the right hand side of the picture below). A simple mod similar to shown in [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359679[/url] makes them look closer to the new color scheme. Yellow needles and some silver accent. Masking the "Auto_gage" lettering makes them look more oem imho.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash304.jpg[/IMG]
| elijah25rs | 08-09-2004 11:38 AM |
[QUOTE=satrya]What's wrong?[/QUOTE]
Lol sorry. I was looking at it and there were no instructions. Why not all in one post?
Lol sorry. I was looking at it and there were no instructions. Why not all in one post?
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:41 AM |
Test fit
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The picture below shows the new faceplate-trim test-fitted with the mini gauges and the oem cluster shroud.
The original instrument overlays (with the turn signal, hand brake, doors, ABS, etc icons) are attached to the back side of the smoked acrylic. I used black electrical tape to attach them. The color scheme is made to match the new center panel, with metallic-flake black as the main color, and accents of silver for secondary information, and yellow for primary information. In retrospect, the metallic color is not a good choice for the cluster shroud. As shown in the picture below, they reflect more light than I expected.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash305.jpg[/IMG]
The original instrument overlays (with the turn signal, hand brake, doors, ABS, etc icons) are attached to the back side of the smoked acrylic. I used black electrical tape to attach them. The color scheme is made to match the new center panel, with metallic-flake black as the main color, and accents of silver for secondary information, and yellow for primary information. In retrospect, the metallic color is not a good choice for the cluster shroud. As shown in the picture below, they reflect more light than I expected.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash305.jpg[/IMG]
| NeoteriX | 08-09-2004 11:42 AM |
[QUOTE=elijah25rs]Lol sorry. I was looking at it and there were no instructions. Why not all in one post?[/QUOTE]
This way it's scoobymods compatible.
This way it's scoobymods compatible.
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:45 AM |
Color scheme
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Picture below shows how the new color scheme looks like relative to the other colors in the interior.
Personally, the mini-gauges do not look that oem imho, although they probably don't scream "look at me!!!" either.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash306.jpg[/IMG]
Personally, the mini-gauges do not look that oem imho, although they probably don't scream "look at me!!!" either.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash306.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:48 AM |
[QUOTE=elijah25rs]Lol sorry. I was looking at it and there were no instructions. Why not all in one post?[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=NeoteriX]This way it's scoobymods compatible.[/QUOTE]
:)
One thing for sure, if you know you're going to write a very long post, it is really annoying when, after all that writing, either something happens to your computer, the internet connection, or the web forum server you intend to post to. --> happened to me before
With something this long, cutting it in batches is a good idea.
my 2 cents.
[QUOTE=NeoteriX]This way it's scoobymods compatible.[/QUOTE]
:)
One thing for sure, if you know you're going to write a very long post, it is really annoying when, after all that writing, either something happens to your computer, the internet connection, or the web forum server you intend to post to. --> happened to me before
With something this long, cutting it in batches is a good idea.
my 2 cents.
| satrya | 08-09-2004 11:52 AM |
Final post
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Picture below shows a comparison between the faceplate when lit and unlit. I also experimented with putting smoked acrylic on the speedo, tach, and fuel - water temp openings to make it look like the my2004+ STi cluster, but concluded that for daytime driving, even when the instrument lighting is put on to max, there is significantly less gauge visibility for it to be a responsible & safe mod.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash307.jpg[/IMG]
Just as an aside, the picture below shows current and previous iterations of the faceplate. V.1 is an overlay of the oem faceplate, while V.2 & 3 (current) are replacements.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash_1_2_3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash307.jpg[/IMG]
Just as an aside, the picture below shows current and previous iterations of the faceplate. V.1 is an overlay of the oem faceplate, while V.2 & 3 (current) are replacements.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/dashV3/dash_1_2_3.jpg[/IMG]
| 128d | 08-09-2004 11:57 AM |
You never seize to amaze me satrya good job, it looks nice.
| satrya | 08-09-2004 12:02 PM |
[QUOTE=128d]You never seize to amaze me satrya good job, it looks nice.[/QUOTE]
Thank you. :)
Imho this is a very doable DIY that can be made to look very nice. See my versions 1 & 2 in one of the latter posts to see what I mean. Using smoked acrylic & regular PVC pipe, and a lot of sanding is a lot better than using thin sheet metal, for this kind of DIY anyway.
Thank you. :)
Imho this is a very doable DIY that can be made to look very nice. See my versions 1 & 2 in one of the latter posts to see what I mean. Using smoked acrylic & regular PVC pipe, and a lot of sanding is a lot better than using thin sheet metal, for this kind of DIY anyway.
| brunetmj | 08-09-2004 12:53 PM |
Nice job satrya . Looks like something even i could do.
| satrya | 08-09-2004 12:56 PM |
[QUOTE=brunetmj]Nice job satrya . Looks like something even i could do.[/QUOTE]
Thanks. Imho, the only real requirement to this DIY is patience. The tools are simple enough.
Thanks. Imho, the only real requirement to this DIY is patience. The tools are simple enough.
| subieworx | 08-09-2004 03:59 PM |
I don't understand why you took out the cetner vents and put the analog clock in their place when you still have the stock clock. Please explain.
Other than that it looks pretty good. Does this mean you have to drive with your lights on all the time?
Other than that it looks pretty good. Does this mean you have to drive with your lights on all the time?
| satrya | 08-09-2004 04:42 PM |
[QUOTE=subieworx]I don't understand why you took out the cetner vents and put the analog clock in their place when you still have the stock clock. Please explain.[/QUOTE]
Actually, I mentioned the reason in one of the referred thread above when I initially started that center clock DIY.
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352814[/url]
Basically, I preferred being able to tell time by glancing at the analog clock instead of reading the digital numbers. In addition, under certain lighting conditions when the contrast between sunlight and shadows are high, the analog clock is preferrable. I was planning to remove the stock digital clock but never got the motivation to do so. Removing it means having to fabricate something to cover the panel. Maybe for a latter navigation panel DIY, but not yet.
By the way, the center vents are still functional, replaced by those eyeball-style vents.
[QUOTE]Does this mean you have to drive with your lights on all the time?[/QUOTE]
Not sure what you mean about driving with the lights on all the time. While I contemplated about putting smoked acrylic on the speedo/tach gauges as well, making them more like the my2004+ STi cluster, my testing indicated that it is not a good idea. So, only the indicator lights such as turn signal, ABS, doors, hand brake, etc., are located behind the smoked acrylic. These will be visible w/o problems in daylight, without turning the interior lights on.
Thanks for your feedback.
Actually, I mentioned the reason in one of the referred thread above when I initially started that center clock DIY.
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352814[/url]
Basically, I preferred being able to tell time by glancing at the analog clock instead of reading the digital numbers. In addition, under certain lighting conditions when the contrast between sunlight and shadows are high, the analog clock is preferrable. I was planning to remove the stock digital clock but never got the motivation to do so. Removing it means having to fabricate something to cover the panel. Maybe for a latter navigation panel DIY, but not yet.
By the way, the center vents are still functional, replaced by those eyeball-style vents.
[QUOTE]Does this mean you have to drive with your lights on all the time?[/QUOTE]
Not sure what you mean about driving with the lights on all the time. While I contemplated about putting smoked acrylic on the speedo/tach gauges as well, making them more like the my2004+ STi cluster, my testing indicated that it is not a good idea. So, only the indicator lights such as turn signal, ABS, doors, hand brake, etc., are located behind the smoked acrylic. These will be visible w/o problems in daylight, without turning the interior lights on.
Thanks for your feedback.
| krillz | 10-02-2004 10:46 AM |
how much you want?
| satrya | 10-02-2004 11:54 AM |
[QUOTE=krillz]how much you want?[/QUOTE]
Is this for an unrelated thread?
Is this for an unrelated thread?
| krillz | 10-02-2004 12:47 PM |
haha, nope, it was an offer for yours gauges, or wether or not you would do this again for someone
| satrya | 10-03-2004 12:31 AM |
[QUOTE=krillz]... offer for yours gauges, or wether or not you would do this again for someone[/QUOTE]
That means I would probably have to get a vendor status, or simply sell it when I'm selling my GD in "private for sale". I'm planning to do neither at the moment, sorry.
However, imho, it is not a terribly difficult DIY, and I'll be more than happy to describe additional details.
That means I would probably have to get a vendor status, or simply sell it when I'm selling my GD in "private for sale". I'm planning to do neither at the moment, sorry.
However, imho, it is not a terribly difficult DIY, and I'll be more than happy to describe additional details.
| twistedsymphony | 01-20-2005 09:39 PM |
[QUOTE=krillz]how much you want?[/QUOTE]
That was my question too...
I have a friend with a plasma cutter so the smoke plate would be no problem by I couldn't get PVC to look that nice.... :eek:
That was my question too...
I have a friend with a plasma cutter so the smoke plate would be no problem by I couldn't get PVC to look that nice.... :eek:
| satrya | 01-20-2005 09:47 PM |
[QUOTE=twistedsymphony]..I couldn't get PVC to look that nice.... :eek:[/QUOTE]
:)
After hours of sanding, it will look nice, with semi-rounded edges and all. That's all there is to it.
:)
After hours of sanding, it will look nice, with semi-rounded edges and all. That's all there is to it.
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