| D Money | 01-24-2011 11:04 PM |
haha you guys are nuts. lol
Tim (brcewayne) already did his abs delete and drives his car. He just used a different prop valve and more t's then I did. Same effect, just different stuff.
He can comment on it, im sure!
The way i did it is expensive, just because I like to make things look pretty and custom. You don't need to use all polished line/separators/clamps, SS fittings, and blue aluminun flare nuts. I just did it because im D Money! :lol:
Tim (brcewayne) already did his abs delete and drives his car. He just used a different prop valve and more t's then I did. Same effect, just different stuff.
He can comment on it, im sure!
The way i did it is expensive, just because I like to make things look pretty and custom. You don't need to use all polished line/separators/clamps, SS fittings, and blue aluminun flare nuts. I just did it because im D Money! :lol:
| brcewane | 01-25-2011 07:39 AM |
^^ LOL.. yeah.. I re-used all of the stock lines, bent them, flared them and put on new fittings. I just re-routed the lines up through the wiper cowl where I put my SSBC proportioning valve.
All I needed to do is add two "T" fittings.. one after the proportioning valve to the rear and one from the master cylinder to the two front brakes.
It is a standard non ABS brake configuration. The proportioning valve allows you to adjust the rears so that they don't lock up before the fronts.
All I needed to do is add two "T" fittings.. one after the proportioning valve to the rear and one from the master cylinder to the two front brakes.
It is a standard non ABS brake configuration. The proportioning valve allows you to adjust the rears so that they don't lock up before the fronts.
| bigboy | 01-25-2011 08:36 AM |
im just waiting to see some pics..so i can show my mechanic what to do! im not worried about money..
| tino | 01-25-2011 08:43 AM |
[quote=xxscaxx;33099306]i'm not really sure haha I am never able to make my mind up. I wanted to relocate it because i don't necessarily want to get rid of it. Convince me otherwise - is it a big deal losing the ABS?
I'd love to do a full shave (or close to it), but i just don't have the funds to get too involved. I'm going to be spending a lot more than i want on my motor build so i just figured what the hell, while the motor is out, lets get some **** out of the way.[/quote]
If i was you mate i would reroute the abs line. Not hard to do especially if you have a pipe bender. its only a few lines that need to be done. Once you have the lines just get the ends flared and your set to go..
ABS is very beneficial on road and even track imo
I'd love to do a full shave (or close to it), but i just don't have the funds to get too involved. I'm going to be spending a lot more than i want on my motor build so i just figured what the hell, while the motor is out, lets get some **** out of the way.[/quote]
If i was you mate i would reroute the abs line. Not hard to do especially if you have a pipe bender. its only a few lines that need to be done. Once you have the lines just get the ends flared and your set to go..
ABS is very beneficial on road and even track imo
| xxscaxx | 01-25-2011 12:15 PM |
[quote=tino;33107682]If i was you mate i would reroute the abs line. Not hard to do especially if you have a pipe bender. its only a few lines that need to be done. Once you have the lines just get the ends flared and your set to go..
ABS is very beneficial on road and even track imo[/quote]
your car is the one that inspired me to reroute it in the first place. I am going to try to reroute it before deleting it. I havent even begun to look at how it is even laid out or how i go about it, i'm waiting to pull the motor out first. Do you have any tips? I don't have a pipe bender but i can get one, not a problem.
ABS is very beneficial on road and even track imo[/quote]
your car is the one that inspired me to reroute it in the first place. I am going to try to reroute it before deleting it. I havent even begun to look at how it is even laid out or how i go about it, i'm waiting to pull the motor out first. Do you have any tips? I don't have a pipe bender but i can get one, not a problem.
| bigboy | 01-25-2011 02:58 PM |
im really just waiting on pics...i see things better when i look at pics and hear how other people did things. a write up would be awesome..but i know that takes a lot of time to put together..
| joshjames | 01-25-2011 03:12 PM |
Regardless of make, model or personal preference, you have to respect that level of attention to detail and workmanship. Just amazing. I think the horizontal mount makes for a particular challenge with this. I have seen one Suby with it done...see if I can find the pics
| D Money | 01-25-2011 03:21 PM |
[quote=bigboy;33111156]im really just waiting on pics...i see things better when i look at pics and hear how other people did things. a write up would be awesome..but i know that takes a lot of time to put together..[/quote]
I will, but im busy with school/work/gym right now. I will take pics and do a full-write up. I help everyone, just as they help me. Just be patient and I will make your life 100x easier then it was for me!
[quote=tino;33107682]If i was you mate i would reroute the abs line. Not hard to do especially if you have a pipe bender. its only a few lines that need to be done. Once you have the lines just get the ends flared and your set to go..
ABS is very beneficial on road and even track imo[/quote]
I'm sure the way you went cost alot of money in labor. How much did you pay?
The way I went cost more in parts, but that's because I chose those parts. I didn't NEED to..
Your way is great, and you retain abs, but you see brake lines all over the place. On my car, you won't be able to see any brake lines, besides the two 4" sections coming out of the MC.
I will, but im busy with school/work/gym right now. I will take pics and do a full-write up. I help everyone, just as they help me. Just be patient and I will make your life 100x easier then it was for me!
[quote=tino;33107682]If i was you mate i would reroute the abs line. Not hard to do especially if you have a pipe bender. its only a few lines that need to be done. Once you have the lines just get the ends flared and your set to go..
ABS is very beneficial on road and even track imo[/quote]
I'm sure the way you went cost alot of money in labor. How much did you pay?
The way I went cost more in parts, but that's because I chose those parts. I didn't NEED to..
Your way is great, and you retain abs, but you see brake lines all over the place. On my car, you won't be able to see any brake lines, besides the two 4" sections coming out of the MC.
| D Money | 01-25-2011 03:23 PM |
Check out the evo8 build through the shop I work at. I'm in charge of all the chroming/powder coating/bay shaving/parts ordering/etc etc. The bay is turning out great!!
[img]http://i771.photobucket.com/albums/xx351/Runthat_Evo/EVO%20Engine%20Bay/DSC00259.jpg[/img]
build thread:
[url]http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-show-shine/533162-akuma-motorsports-drag-show-evo8-build.html[/url]
[img]http://i771.photobucket.com/albums/xx351/Runthat_Evo/EVO%20Engine%20Bay/DSC00259.jpg[/img]
build thread:
[url]http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-show-shine/533162-akuma-motorsports-drag-show-evo8-build.html[/url]
| bigboy | 01-25-2011 03:32 PM |
D- i totally understand. im in no hurry. i have work and school as well..and my car is 3 hours away..cant exactly work on it every night...
so when i do go work on the car..i try to make my time worth while.
Nice Evo project you have going on there at the shop
so when i do go work on the car..i try to make my time worth while.
Nice Evo project you have going on there at the shop
| AkumaMotorsports | 01-25-2011 03:45 PM |
Heard that! I will definitely get pics up as soon as I finish everything up. I'm pulling it out of the show room tonight and into the shop, so i'll grab more pics then. :)
[email�protected]
[email�protected]
| bigboy | 01-25-2011 03:50 PM |
[quote=AkumaMotorsports;33111666]Heard that! I will definitely get pics up as soon as I finish everything up. I'm pulling it out of the show room tonight and into the shop, so i'll grab more pics then. :)
[email�protected][/quote]
just looked through the pics on that EVO build...that is just plain crazy
[email�protected][/quote]
just looked through the pics on that EVO build...that is just plain crazy
| xxscaxx | 01-25-2011 11:23 PM |
looking forward to the pics d (and a writeup :D) thanks for the help thus far! One day i wanna take a ride to the shop and check out your ride when its running.
| D Money | 01-25-2011 11:27 PM |
No prob man!
I am sure you will see me out at some events.
I am sure you will see me out at some events.
| xxscaxx | 01-25-2011 11:37 PM |
Yeah i'm sure..you are going to be taking them by storm :lol:
by the way, could you PM me the details of your custom tanks like the coolant overflow, brake reservoir, etc? also this may seem silly but what clamps are you using for the radiator hoses?
by the way, could you PM me the details of your custom tanks like the coolant overflow, brake reservoir, etc? also this may seem silly but what clamps are you using for the radiator hoses?
| D Money | 01-25-2011 11:52 PM |
haha! Idk man, there are alot of nice cars out there.
What did you want to know? I can answer them here in case anyone else wants to know, also. Did you mean fittings and such? Because I typed up a full list of every single fitting/part number/description for each section on the car if you want to check that out.
What did you want to know? I can answer them here in case anyone else wants to know, also. Did you mean fittings and such? Because I typed up a full list of every single fitting/part number/description for each section on the car if you want to check that out.
| xxscaxx | 01-26-2011 09:49 AM |
[quote=D Money;33116777]haha! Idk man, there are alot of nice cars out there.
What did you want to know? I can answer them here in case anyone else wants to know, also. Did you mean fittings and such? Because I typed up a full list of every single fitting/part number/description for each section on the car if you want to check that out.[/quote]
my bad just wasn't sure if you wanted to answer in the thread. I see that they are all JMF, i never heard of that company, i was looking to maybe just replace the overflow tank and power steering fluid reservoir to get rid of the plastic containers. I know it says custom so did you have to get them built for you?
What did you want to know? I can answer them here in case anyone else wants to know, also. Did you mean fittings and such? Because I typed up a full list of every single fitting/part number/description for each section on the car if you want to check that out.[/quote]
my bad just wasn't sure if you wanted to answer in the thread. I see that they are all JMF, i never heard of that company, i was looking to maybe just replace the overflow tank and power steering fluid reservoir to get rid of the plastic containers. I know it says custom so did you have to get them built for you?
| D Money | 01-26-2011 11:02 AM |
Yes, JMF=JM Fabrications. Their website is Jmfabrications.com
I basically drew and told Jim what I wanted, and the concept behind it and they made them. Notice how they all look like their floating and tie into the theme of the other custom stuff. JMF made all of my custom stuff, they're awesome!
If you want just a polished metal tank, Forge makes some nice stock location ones. If you go with something like I did, you're going to have to run all new lines, even if you don't go with -an fittings.
I can help you design some if you want!
I basically drew and told Jim what I wanted, and the concept behind it and they made them. Notice how they all look like their floating and tie into the theme of the other custom stuff. JMF made all of my custom stuff, they're awesome!
If you want just a polished metal tank, Forge makes some nice stock location ones. If you go with something like I did, you're going to have to run all new lines, even if you don't go with -an fittings.
I can help you design some if you want!
| xxscaxx | 01-26-2011 01:19 PM |
[quote=D Money;33120001]Yes, JMF=JM Fabrications. Their website is Jmfabrications.com
I basically drew and told Jim what I wanted, and the concept behind it and they made them. Notice how they all look like their floating and tie into the theme of the other custom stuff. JMF made all of my custom stuff, they're awesome!
If you want just a polished metal tank, Forge makes some nice stock location ones. If you go with something like I did, you're going to have to run all new lines, even if you don't go with -an fittings.
I can help you design some if you want![/quote]
oh ok that makes more sense now lol. I really like how all of your stuff is in tight with each other, especially the overflow tank (and how it appears as if they are floating).
I think it wouldn't be too difficult to design them, but do they need to be a certain volume/size etc or does it not really matter? Specifically the overflow tank. I know the brake reservoir probably doesn't have to be. I am using the aps coolant overflow, i'm going to keep that. But if i get rid of the ABS pump, i don't want the brake reservoir sitting there by itself, which is why i really liked how you made it tight against the radiator. looks awesome:banana:
I basically drew and told Jim what I wanted, and the concept behind it and they made them. Notice how they all look like their floating and tie into the theme of the other custom stuff. JMF made all of my custom stuff, they're awesome!
If you want just a polished metal tank, Forge makes some nice stock location ones. If you go with something like I did, you're going to have to run all new lines, even if you don't go with -an fittings.
I can help you design some if you want![/quote]
oh ok that makes more sense now lol. I really like how all of your stuff is in tight with each other, especially the overflow tank (and how it appears as if they are floating).
I think it wouldn't be too difficult to design them, but do they need to be a certain volume/size etc or does it not really matter? Specifically the overflow tank. I know the brake reservoir probably doesn't have to be. I am using the aps coolant overflow, i'm going to keep that. But if i get rid of the ABS pump, i don't want the brake reservoir sitting there by itself, which is why i really liked how you made it tight against the radiator. looks awesome:banana:
| AkumaMotorsports | 01-26-2011 02:12 PM |
[quote=xxscaxx;33121652]oh ok that makes more sense now lol. I really like how all of your stuff is in tight with each other, especially the overflow tank (and how it appears as if they are floating).
I think it wouldn't be too difficult to design them, but do they need to be a certain volume/size etc or does it not really matter? Specifically the overflow tank. I know the brake reservoir probably doesn't have to be. I am using the aps coolant overflow, i'm going to keep that. But if i get rid of the ABS pump, i don't want the brake reservoir sitting there by itself, which is why i really liked how you made it tight against the radiator. looks awesome:banana:[/quote]
The one on the passenger side of my radiator is power steering. That tank is also interally baffled, and has a non pressurized cap with a small hole and no rubber seal. The one on the driver side is coolant over flow. Same design as the PS tank, just a tad longer. The coolant bypass tank on top of the ps pump is the same volume as stock, so everything is in coherence.
I didn't make a new brake or clutch res, however I might. I just cleaned my stock ones and put Project mu caps on them. Tino made new ones for his and they turned out pretty sweet. I'll do them once I get the car running and everything all situated.
[email�protected]
I think it wouldn't be too difficult to design them, but do they need to be a certain volume/size etc or does it not really matter? Specifically the overflow tank. I know the brake reservoir probably doesn't have to be. I am using the aps coolant overflow, i'm going to keep that. But if i get rid of the ABS pump, i don't want the brake reservoir sitting there by itself, which is why i really liked how you made it tight against the radiator. looks awesome:banana:[/quote]
The one on the passenger side of my radiator is power steering. That tank is also interally baffled, and has a non pressurized cap with a small hole and no rubber seal. The one on the driver side is coolant over flow. Same design as the PS tank, just a tad longer. The coolant bypass tank on top of the ps pump is the same volume as stock, so everything is in coherence.
I didn't make a new brake or clutch res, however I might. I just cleaned my stock ones and put Project mu caps on them. Tino made new ones for his and they turned out pretty sweet. I'll do them once I get the car running and everything all situated.
[email�protected]
| Fat Black Pig Sac | 01-26-2011 07:35 PM |
Have you guys noticed any problems with cracking bondo? Body is flexible, right?
| Teh Police | 01-26-2011 07:45 PM |
[quote=Fat Black Pig Sac;33125721]Have you guys noticed any problems with cracking bondo? Body is flexible, right?[/quote]
Youd have to drive the car to find that out...
Youd have to drive the car to find that out...
| 2006whitesti | 01-26-2011 08:24 PM |
[quote=Teh Police;33125822]Youd have to drive the car to find that out...[/quote]
:lol: that is what I was thinking. Can't say much, mine has been down for about the same amount of time.
:lol: that is what I was thinking. Can't say much, mine has been down for about the same amount of time.
| D Money | 01-26-2011 10:39 PM |
[quote=Fat Black Pig Sac;33125721]Have you guys noticed any problems with cracking bondo? Body is flexible, right?[/quote]
Shaving engine bays isn't new. Hot rod guys do it, VW guys do it, honda guys do it...
Tino is probably the only one to drive on his shaved bay, since him and I are the only ones right now. Tim (brcewayne added pieces, so he won't have the same effect). Also, 9vapors did his bay, but he didn't get as crazy with the smoothing aspect, however he did fill all the holes. I know Tino tracked his car pretty hard and didn't have issues, so who knows. The majority of shaving is done with welding in metal plates, and thin-thin layers of body grade body filler. It's not just all plastered on. :lol:
[quote=Teh Police;33125822]Youd have to drive the car to find that out...[/quote]
That's not a very nice response...;)
[quote=2006whitesti;33126196]:lol: that is what I was thinking. Can't say much, mine has been down for about the same amount of time.[/quote]
Are you shaving your bay? Post pics!
Shaving engine bays isn't new. Hot rod guys do it, VW guys do it, honda guys do it...
Tino is probably the only one to drive on his shaved bay, since him and I are the only ones right now. Tim (brcewayne added pieces, so he won't have the same effect). Also, 9vapors did his bay, but he didn't get as crazy with the smoothing aspect, however he did fill all the holes. I know Tino tracked his car pretty hard and didn't have issues, so who knows. The majority of shaving is done with welding in metal plates, and thin-thin layers of body grade body filler. It's not just all plastered on. :lol:
[quote=Teh Police;33125822]Youd have to drive the car to find that out...[/quote]
That's not a very nice response...;)
[quote=2006whitesti;33126196]:lol: that is what I was thinking. Can't say much, mine has been down for about the same amount of time.[/quote]
Are you shaving your bay? Post pics!
| blue subie | 01-26-2011 10:40 PM |
ohh very nice I shall show mine soon
| tino | 01-27-2011 06:41 PM |
[quote=D Money;33111409]I
I'm sure the way you went cost alot of money in labor. How much did you pay?
The way I went cost more in parts, but that's because I chose those parts. I didn't NEED to..
Your way is great, and you retain abs, but you see brake lines all over the place. On my car, you won't be able to see any brake lines, besides the two 4" sections coming out of the MC.[/quote]
It cost me around 700 in parts and labour to mount it and do the lines. The lines were bent by hand due to the fact that everyone flaked when they saw what they had to do (which was fkall) and i had to get the car running that weekend. I will re-do those lines properly at some stage but i think it looks pretty good in anycase but im just a little bit perfectionist..hhaha
[quote=Fat Black Pig Sac;33125721]Have you guys noticed any problems with cracking bondo? Body is flexible, right?[/quote]
[quote=D Money;33127451]Shaving engine bays isn't new. Hot rod guys do it, VW guys do it, honda guys do it...
Tino is probably the only one to drive on his shaved bay, since him and I are the only ones right now. Tim (brcewayne added pieces, so he won't have the same effect). Also, 9vapors did his bay, but he didn't get as crazy with the smoothing aspect, however he did fill all the holes. I know Tino tracked his car pretty hard and didn't have issues, so who knows. The majority of shaving is done with welding in metal plates, and thin-thin layers of body grade body filler. It's not just all plastered on. :lol:
![/quote]
As D has said...
In my bay complete metal plates were put on either side and bottom plates were all welded to the body. On the firewall there were small plates welded in..
There is a skim layer of bog but not thick at all..
I have driven the car and tracked it probaly 10 times with no issues of cracking (touch wood) thus far. All looks pretty good...
I'm sure the way you went cost alot of money in labor. How much did you pay?
The way I went cost more in parts, but that's because I chose those parts. I didn't NEED to..
Your way is great, and you retain abs, but you see brake lines all over the place. On my car, you won't be able to see any brake lines, besides the two 4" sections coming out of the MC.[/quote]
It cost me around 700 in parts and labour to mount it and do the lines. The lines were bent by hand due to the fact that everyone flaked when they saw what they had to do (which was fkall) and i had to get the car running that weekend. I will re-do those lines properly at some stage but i think it looks pretty good in anycase but im just a little bit perfectionist..hhaha
[quote=Fat Black Pig Sac;33125721]Have you guys noticed any problems with cracking bondo? Body is flexible, right?[/quote]
[quote=D Money;33127451]Shaving engine bays isn't new. Hot rod guys do it, VW guys do it, honda guys do it...
Tino is probably the only one to drive on his shaved bay, since him and I are the only ones right now. Tim (brcewayne added pieces, so he won't have the same effect). Also, 9vapors did his bay, but he didn't get as crazy with the smoothing aspect, however he did fill all the holes. I know Tino tracked his car pretty hard and didn't have issues, so who knows. The majority of shaving is done with welding in metal plates, and thin-thin layers of body grade body filler. It's not just all plastered on. :lol:
![/quote]
As D has said...
In my bay complete metal plates were put on either side and bottom plates were all welded to the body. On the firewall there were small plates welded in..
There is a skim layer of bog but not thick at all..
I have driven the car and tracked it probaly 10 times with no issues of cracking (touch wood) thus far. All looks pretty good...
| xxscaxx | 01-28-2011 12:33 AM |
tino, what cost so much in the relocation? i thought if anything it would be cheaper lol, assuming you just need to get new line and bend/flair them. I realize labor costs a good amount i'm sure depending on the hours put in.
| bigboy | 01-28-2011 08:21 AM |
Tino-
do you pics of the relocation? im really curious to see how this looks or where you put it at?
Dustin
do you pics of the relocation? im really curious to see how this looks or where you put it at?
Dustin
| brcewane | 01-28-2011 09:11 AM |
[quote=xxscaxx;33139119]tino, what cost so much in the relocation? i thought if anything it would be cheaper lol, assuming you just need to get new line and bend/flair them. I realize labor costs a good amount i'm sure depending on the hours put in.[/quote]
Consider it taking at least a day 7-8 hours of labor at a typical $100/hr fabrication rate... and voila..
It's one of those things that isn't "hard".. it just is tinker work that eats up time!!
Consider it taking at least a day 7-8 hours of labor at a typical $100/hr fabrication rate... and voila..
It's one of those things that isn't "hard".. it just is tinker work that eats up time!!
| D Money | 01-28-2011 11:11 AM |
I ended up with $350 in parts when it was all said and done. I may take my brake line tube over to my polisher and have it mirror polished. :lol:
| xxscaxx | 01-28-2011 12:06 PM |
[quote=brcewane;33140701]Consider it taking at least a day 7-8 hours of labor at a typical $100/hr fabrication rate... and voila..
It's one of those things that isn't "hard".. it just is tinker work that eats up time!![/quote]
yeah i figured that :lol: i'm going to do this myself so i guess the cheaper option would be relocating. Hoping to pull my motor out soon and get this going (just so i can actually take a damn look at how to tackle this lol).
bigboy - here is the link to Tino's thread where he rerouted the abs.
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1470621&page=30[/url]
It's one of those things that isn't "hard".. it just is tinker work that eats up time!![/quote]
yeah i figured that :lol: i'm going to do this myself so i guess the cheaper option would be relocating. Hoping to pull my motor out soon and get this going (just so i can actually take a damn look at how to tackle this lol).
bigboy - here is the link to Tino's thread where he rerouted the abs.
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1470621&page=30[/url]
| bigboy | 01-28-2011 02:06 PM |
[quote=xxscaxx;33142236]yeah i figured that :lol: i'm going to do this myself so i guess the cheaper option would be relocating. Hoping to pull my motor out soon and get this going (just so i can actually take a damn look at how to tackle this lol).
bigboy - here is the link to Tino's thread where he rerouted the abs.
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1470621&page=30[/url][/quote]
thanks man...i remember lookin at his thread in the past...before my motor went KABOOM...time to really look into his thread and get ideas
bigboy - here is the link to Tino's thread where he rerouted the abs.
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1470621&page=30[/url][/quote]
thanks man...i remember lookin at his thread in the past...before my motor went KABOOM...time to really look into his thread and get ideas
| xxscaxx | 01-31-2011 11:03 PM |
[quote=bigboy;33143555]thanks man...i remember lookin at his thread in the past...before my motor went KABOOM...time to really look into his thread and get ideas[/quote]
i'm pretty sure i'm going to go with the rerouting. Hopefully should have my motor out within the next week or so.
i'm pretty sure i'm going to go with the rerouting. Hopefully should have my motor out within the next week or so.
| vwbeaner | 02-02-2011 03:43 AM |
[IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i63/dubsport87/91%20GTI/IMG_4130.jpg[/IMG]
| vwbeaner | 02-02-2011 03:52 AM |
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/frechem/IMG_1534.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z228/_M_u_r_p_h_/IMG_0848.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.vwvortex.com/gallery/albums//Events/Enthusiast/H20%20International/2009/Golf%202%20-%[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k31/carlossoria/100_0402.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss197/AKM-Amir/mybay-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z228/_M_u_r_p_h_/H2O%2009/DSC_0102.jpg[/IMG]
I know they are all VW's, I recently came from vw's and I don't have any subie pics.
[IMG]http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z228/_M_u_r_p_h_/IMG_0848.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.vwvortex.com/gallery/albums//Events/Enthusiast/H20%20International/2009/Golf%202%20-%[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k31/carlossoria/100_0402.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss197/AKM-Amir/mybay-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z228/_M_u_r_p_h_/H2O%2009/DSC_0102.jpg[/IMG]
I know they are all VW's, I recently came from vw's and I don't have any subie pics.
| kh15 | 02-02-2011 07:50 AM |
those vdub guys are crazy! i dont even know how thats possible...
beautiful none the less
beautiful none the less
| kfcfish160 | 02-02-2011 09:18 AM |
Heres a nice clean subaru engine bay
| bigboy | 02-02-2011 06:46 PM |
[quote=xxscaxx;33171480]i'm pretty sure i'm going to go with the rerouting. Hopefully should have my motor out within the next week or so.[/quote]
yea i agree...my motor has been out since august..so its time to start looking into things..once it warms back up
yea i agree...my motor has been out since august..so its time to start looking into things..once it warms back up
| xxscaxx | 02-06-2011 02:45 PM |
[quote=bigboy;33190847]yea i agree...my motor has been out since august..so its time to start looking into things..once it warms back up[/quote]
unfortunately i'm in a race with time as i'm dropping my car off in the beginning of march to have the motor built, so i'm trying to get this crap done asap, even though its freezing out :lol:
I keep going back and forth with it, I hate rushing things. Unfortunately i won't have enough time to get the engine bay repainted or anything like that unless a buddy of mine can do it within the next couple weeks. I don't plan on welding shut any holes or anything, i was thinking of maybe trying to tackle what brcewayne did and make panels to cover the sides. Its just not in my budget right now to be able to get that kind of work done.
Tino, D, etc - what size do the new brake lines need to be flared out to? I'm assuming all i need is a pipe bender, flaring kit, and new lines. And pick up new nuts for the ends.
So i'm assuming i'd only need
- 3/16 brake line
- new tube nuts
- brake fluid :lol:
Was it a pita to refill after you pulled the system out? Like having to deal with air in the system? I haven't changed my brake fluid yet on my car so this gives me reason to finally :lol:
Sorry for the repetitive questions, i just want to get this right.
edit: another thing i forgot about is my intercooler piping. Tino doesn't have any in the fender area because of his setup, and my aps piping sits right in that location. Guess i will have to try to measure and see if there is enough space.
unfortunately i'm in a race with time as i'm dropping my car off in the beginning of march to have the motor built, so i'm trying to get this crap done asap, even though its freezing out :lol:
I keep going back and forth with it, I hate rushing things. Unfortunately i won't have enough time to get the engine bay repainted or anything like that unless a buddy of mine can do it within the next couple weeks. I don't plan on welding shut any holes or anything, i was thinking of maybe trying to tackle what brcewayne did and make panels to cover the sides. Its just not in my budget right now to be able to get that kind of work done.
Tino, D, etc - what size do the new brake lines need to be flared out to? I'm assuming all i need is a pipe bender, flaring kit, and new lines. And pick up new nuts for the ends.
So i'm assuming i'd only need
- 3/16 brake line
- new tube nuts
- brake fluid :lol:
Was it a pita to refill after you pulled the system out? Like having to deal with air in the system? I haven't changed my brake fluid yet on my car so this gives me reason to finally :lol:
Sorry for the repetitive questions, i just want to get this right.
edit: another thing i forgot about is my intercooler piping. Tino doesn't have any in the fender area because of his setup, and my aps piping sits right in that location. Guess i will have to try to measure and see if there is enough space.
| D Money | 02-06-2011 04:26 PM |
The brake line needs to be anealed stainless steel, seemless. You need .028 thickness, and it needs to be 37 degreed flares on all ends. All fittings MUST be stainless or regular steel, but you can use aluminum tube nuts and flare nuts.
I am stuck on what to do with my rear brake lines because I believe the stock line is seemed, which means it can be 37 degreed flares, only double flare. You won't need to worry about this if you're using a stock valve, because it has two in's and two out's. I'm trying to T the rear brakes into one in. That's why I am having problems.
Use the fitting list I gave you!!
I am stuck on what to do with my rear brake lines because I believe the stock line is seemed, which means it can be 37 degreed flares, only double flare. You won't need to worry about this if you're using a stock valve, because it has two in's and two out's. I'm trying to T the rear brakes into one in. That's why I am having problems.
Use the fitting list I gave you!!
| maxnn | 02-06-2011 06:26 PM |
It's really nice.....
| Teh Police | 02-06-2011 06:59 PM |
[quote=maxnn;33225450]It's really nice.....[/quote]
someone ban this mother****er.
someone ban this mother****er.
| xxscaxx | 02-07-2011 12:26 PM |
[quote=D Money;33224661]The brake line needs to be anealed stainless steel, seemless. You need .028 thickness, and it needs to be 37 degreed flares on all ends. All fittings MUST be stainless or regular steel, but you can use aluminum tube nuts and flare nuts.
I am stuck on what to do with my rear brake lines because I believe the stock line is seemed, which means it can be 37 degreed flares, only double flare. You won't need to worry about this if you're using a stock valve, because it has two in's and two out's. I'm trying to T the rear brakes into one in. That's why I am having problems.
Use the fitting list I gave you!![/quote]
Thanks D, i thought that list was only geared towards people who wanted to do a delete of the ABS.
I am stuck on what to do with my rear brake lines because I believe the stock line is seemed, which means it can be 37 degreed flares, only double flare. You won't need to worry about this if you're using a stock valve, because it has two in's and two out's. I'm trying to T the rear brakes into one in. That's why I am having problems.
Use the fitting list I gave you!![/quote]
Thanks D, i thought that list was only geared towards people who wanted to do a delete of the ABS.
| bigboy | 02-07-2011 02:48 PM |
[quote=xxscaxx;33224028]unfortunately i'm in a race with time as i'm dropping my car off in the beginning of march to have the motor built, so i'm trying to get this crap done asap, even though its freezing out :lol:
I keep going back and forth with it, I hate rushing things. Unfortunately i won't have enough time to get the engine bay repainted or anything like that unless a buddy of mine can do it within the next couple weeks. I don't plan on welding shut any holes or anything, i was thinking of maybe trying to tackle what brcewayne did and make panels to cover the sides. Its just not in my budget right now to be able to get that kind of work done.
[/quote]
i hear ya...i have plenty of time to go mine...im just trying to figure out the best way to do things...
and i am always going back and forth..back and forth on what projects to tackle and what to leave alone for another time.
I keep going back and forth with it, I hate rushing things. Unfortunately i won't have enough time to get the engine bay repainted or anything like that unless a buddy of mine can do it within the next couple weeks. I don't plan on welding shut any holes or anything, i was thinking of maybe trying to tackle what brcewayne did and make panels to cover the sides. Its just not in my budget right now to be able to get that kind of work done.
[/quote]
i hear ya...i have plenty of time to go mine...im just trying to figure out the best way to do things...
and i am always going back and forth..back and forth on what projects to tackle and what to leave alone for another time.
| D Money | 02-07-2011 04:46 PM |
[quote=xxscaxx;33230836]Thanks D, i thought that list was only geared towards people who wanted to do a delete of the ABS.[/quote]
Oops, I totally forgot! Then you need all of the following I listed, and your fittings should look like this.
anplumbing.com/shop
part number 0110316C
[img]http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/images/2607_0110316Cw.jpg[/img]
You need (2) of these at the master, (2) for the front wheels, and however many you need for the abs pump. I can't find mine to see how many ports there are. With these fittings, you slide them on the 3/16 line and DOUBLE FLARE them.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Oops, I totally forgot! Then you need all of the following I listed, and your fittings should look like this.
anplumbing.com/shop
part number 0110316C
[img]http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/images/2607_0110316Cw.jpg[/img]
You need (2) of these at the master, (2) for the front wheels, and however many you need for the abs pump. I can't find mine to see how many ports there are. With these fittings, you slide them on the 3/16 line and DOUBLE FLARE them.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
| bigboy | 02-07-2011 07:14 PM |
D-
thanks for all the good info with part numbers and non sense..lol
thanks for all the good info with part numbers and non sense..lol
| D Money | 02-07-2011 10:23 PM |
yup! I want to do a write up on it but im scared. This takes serious understanding of what you're doing. One wrong thing or bit of info and you're going to waste alot of money. I'd rather help people out individually so if you have questions, feel free to ask!
| xxscaxx | 02-08-2011 12:04 AM |
lol that's why you throw a big disclaimer at the top of the thread :D
thanks for the help D. I started tearing down my motor last night, i'm going to work on it this week to get it prepped for coming out of the bay.
I will probably take a lot of pics of the process with the ABS when i do it.
wait, so i need what you listed in your previous post and those fittings? I thought i just needed those fittings and lines. I'm confusing myself :lol: Can't wait to actually get the motor out and look at this goddamn thing, it will all make sense then.
what else can i move/delete while the motor is out to clean it up a bit? Where did you route both sides of your engine harness (where the big plugs are)?
thanks for the help D. I started tearing down my motor last night, i'm going to work on it this week to get it prepped for coming out of the bay.
I will probably take a lot of pics of the process with the ABS when i do it.
wait, so i need what you listed in your previous post and those fittings? I thought i just needed those fittings and lines. I'm confusing myself :lol: Can't wait to actually get the motor out and look at this goddamn thing, it will all make sense then.
what else can i move/delete while the motor is out to clean it up a bit? Where did you route both sides of your engine harness (where the big plugs are)?
| djb97ek | 02-08-2011 02:37 AM |
them vw bays are sick
| Token-Negro | 02-08-2011 09:59 PM |
When flaring OEM brake lines do not flare them 37 degree, the steel is to soft. On the Subaru the OEM tube nuts for ABS Pump, Master cylinder, etc are all M10x1 you can reuse them from the old lines if you are making new lines. When using stainless tubing cut the tubing with a high number tooth hack saw in a vice. This is to keep from over heating the cut and work hardening the end. With the stainless when you work harden it, you make it very hard to double flare it. I would use a hydraulic flare tool or the Eastwood tool to do inverted flares. Most others say not to use with SS. Also your 3/16 tube will be equivalent to -3an with brakes I always use steel everything, Tube nuts, sleeve, bulkhead everything is steel or stainless. NO reason to use Aluminum because everything you need in a brake setup is made in steel. You can even make your own braided stainless lines for clutch, and brake right at home with a few hand tools, but thats another class. LOL
| jaegmeister | 02-08-2011 10:21 PM |
[quote=Teh Police;33225634]someone ban this mother****er.[/quote]
:popcorn:
:popcorn:
| AlxSti | 02-08-2011 10:46 PM |
These tucked engine bays amaze me. I'd love to have my engine bay look that clean. I can only imagine how much work it takes though..
| D Money | 02-08-2011 11:38 PM |
[quote=Token-Negro;33247139]When flaring OEM brake lines do not flare them 37 degree, the steel is to soft. On the Subaru the OEM tube nuts for ABS Pump, Master cylinder, etc are all M10x1 you can reuse them from the old lines if you are making new lines. When using stainless tubing cut the tubing with a high number tooth hack saw in a vice. This is to keep from over heating the cut and work hardening the end. With the stainless when you work harden it, you make it very hard to double flare it. I would use a hydraulic flare tool or the Eastwood tool to do inverted flares. Most others say not to use with SS. Also your 3/16 tube will be equivalent to -3an with brakes I always use steel everything, Tube nuts, sleeve, bulkhead everything is steel or stainless. NO reason to use Aluminum because everything you need in a brake setup is made in steel. You can even make your own braided stainless lines for clutch, and brake right at home with a few hand tools, but thats another class. LOL[/quote]
Correct on all points. Well said, but I still think making a thread with something like this will only confuse people. You really need to understand it before you just go and do it.
You CAN use aluminum tube nuts/sleeves. There is no benefit, or disadvantage. They're rated to about 10,000psi and the brakes will never see that. Plus they're a cool blue. :P
So let me ask you a question about my dilema. I want to T the two rear brake lines into 1 for my wilwood brake prop valve. Here are the options:
[B]1. Cut the old m10x1.0 fittings off, put a tube nut/sleeve, 37 degree flare it, -3an tee, and run it into the valve. [/B]
**problem with this is like you said, stock line may be too soft, and could also have a seem in it. Also, stock line is meant to be double flared with inverted fittings, however then you can't use a tube nut/sleeve on it**
[B]2. Run m10x1.0--> -3an male flare conversion fitting. [/B]
**This may work, but I can't figure out if it will be more prone to leaking or cause any issues down the road. The only disadvantage to this is you need to run an extra set of tube nut/sleeves**
anplumbing.com part number: 989545
[img]http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/images/989545.jpg[/img]
[B]3. Find a 3-way m10x1.0 metric tee. Run the two rear brakes into the two ports, and run a m10x1.0-->-3an male flare out of it.[/B]
**Problem with this is, I CANNOT FIND ANYONE WITH A 3-WAY METRIC TEE ANYWHERE!!!**
I would not have this issues if I didn't want to run this valve. Stock valve has two in's, two outs. I just had to be difficult! :lol:
Correct on all points. Well said, but I still think making a thread with something like this will only confuse people. You really need to understand it before you just go and do it.
You CAN use aluminum tube nuts/sleeves. There is no benefit, or disadvantage. They're rated to about 10,000psi and the brakes will never see that. Plus they're a cool blue. :P
So let me ask you a question about my dilema. I want to T the two rear brake lines into 1 for my wilwood brake prop valve. Here are the options:
[B]1. Cut the old m10x1.0 fittings off, put a tube nut/sleeve, 37 degree flare it, -3an tee, and run it into the valve. [/B]
**problem with this is like you said, stock line may be too soft, and could also have a seem in it. Also, stock line is meant to be double flared with inverted fittings, however then you can't use a tube nut/sleeve on it**
[B]2. Run m10x1.0--> -3an male flare conversion fitting. [/B]
**This may work, but I can't figure out if it will be more prone to leaking or cause any issues down the road. The only disadvantage to this is you need to run an extra set of tube nut/sleeves**
anplumbing.com part number: 989545
[img]http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/images/989545.jpg[/img]
[B]3. Find a 3-way m10x1.0 metric tee. Run the two rear brakes into the two ports, and run a m10x1.0-->-3an male flare out of it.[/B]
**Problem with this is, I CANNOT FIND ANYONE WITH A 3-WAY METRIC TEE ANYWHERE!!!**
I would not have this issues if I didn't want to run this valve. Stock valve has two in's, two outs. I just had to be difficult! :lol:
| Teh Police | 02-08-2011 11:44 PM |
If you are using a T to make your own brake lines what keeps you from using whatever thread you want? Why do you need a metric T? You could just run AN fittings on the line and use a 3-way AN T-fitting.
| AkumaMotorsports | 02-09-2011 10:51 AM |
^No, you cannot. That's what I have and planned on using, but the only way that would work is if you 37 degree flare the stock rear lines and put -an tube nuts/sleeves on it. The problem is listed in my question, that the stock rear lines may not be able to be flared that way due to many reasons.
If I had a metric tee, I would be able to leave them and start making the new lines for the front right from the 3rd port on the tee.
[email�protected]
If I had a metric tee, I would be able to leave them and start making the new lines for the front right from the 3rd port on the tee.
[email�protected]
| sleepersoob02 | 02-09-2011 11:38 AM |
My other car with a slight wire tuck among other things :lol:
[img]http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs486.snc3/26600_396321298904_500318904_3604468_3711605_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs486.snc3/26600_396321313904_500318904_3604471_2137513_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs506.snc3/26600_396321323904_500318904_3604473_1416885_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs486.snc3/26600_396321298904_500318904_3604468_3711605_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs486.snc3/26600_396321313904_500318904_3604471_2137513_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs506.snc3/26600_396321323904_500318904_3604473_1416885_n.jpg[/img]
| EviljokerSTI | 02-09-2011 03:00 PM |
I know its not a pic, but there is a shot of the engine bay, there is othing else in the bay besides the motor. and evwerything is tucked
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atZq47WWqc4&feature=related"]YouTube - Monster 2200 HP NRE TT 632(10.3 L) BBC. Tom Nelson.[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atZq47WWqc4&feature=related"]YouTube - Monster 2200 HP NRE TT 632(10.3 L) BBC. Tom Nelson.[/ame]
| demartinoink | 02-09-2011 03:57 PM |
^insane
| Token-Negro | 02-10-2011 11:19 AM |
[quote=AkumaMotorsports;33250907]^No, you cannot. That's what I have and planned on using, but the only way that would work is if you 37 degree flare the stock rear lines and put -an tube nuts/sleeves on it. The problem is listed in my question, that the stock rear lines may not be able to be flared that way due to many reasons.
If I had a metric tee, I would be able to leave them and start making the new lines for the front right from the 3rd port on the tee.
[email�protected][/quote]
Simple solution for a simple problem use SAE inverted flare tube nuts. Now its easy to find a Tee, they are easy to locate, and they can done on the softer steel oem brake lines.
If I had a metric tee, I would be able to leave them and start making the new lines for the front right from the 3rd port on the tee.
[email�protected][/quote]
Simple solution for a simple problem use SAE inverted flare tube nuts. Now its easy to find a Tee, they are easy to locate, and they can done on the softer steel oem brake lines.
| evoklr101 | 02-10-2011 11:27 AM |
^^^ Kendrick has an easy solution! also D, have you talked with johann about all the brake line stuff? He tried to explain to me about it all but I just got lost! Lol
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