| solo-x | 02-05-2007 03:50 PM |
Let me edit my post again... the SR20DET is perfectly legal in a Nissan chassis provided you don't have to perform an illegal modification to the chassis to facilitate the swap.
| solo-x | 02-05-2007 03:51 PM |
[QUOTE=Scooby South;16939667]This DOES not say you can use a motor that was NOT sold in the US...
Bill[/QUOTE]
[quote=teh r00lbook][b]This allows engine blocks
manufactured as production units for sale in other countries
such as Japan or Germany. [/b][/quote]
:huh:
Bill[/QUOTE]
[quote=teh r00lbook][b]This allows engine blocks
manufactured as production units for sale in other countries
such as Japan or Germany. [/b][/quote]
:huh:
| Scooby South | 02-05-2007 03:52 PM |
[QUOTE=afpdl;16939416]They may look the same, but it takes about 2 secs to prove that someone has a spec c trunk.
And what does the sr20 not being in a us production car have to do with anything? That is explicity allowed in the rule book. The only reason it would be illegal is if you have to do an illegal modification to the car to get it to fit (like you do for a fmic)[/QUOTE]
So you carry a magnet around with you???? or better yet...wonder if they are made out of same material...Ie: Steel...just a thinner gauge...on Spec C....
And what does the sr20 not being in a us production car have to do with anything? That is explicity allowed in the rule book. The only reason it would be illegal is if you have to do an illegal modification to the car to get it to fit (like you do for a fmic)[/QUOTE]
So you carry a magnet around with you???? or better yet...wonder if they are made out of same material...Ie: Steel...just a thinner gauge...on Spec C....
| Draken | 02-05-2007 04:00 PM |
"This allows engine blocks
manufactured as production units for sale in other countries
such as Japan or Germany. "
does it get any clearer than this?
edit: nate was teh faster.
manufactured as production units for sale in other countries
such as Japan or Germany. "
does it get any clearer than this?
edit: nate was teh faster.
| Scooby South | 02-05-2007 04:01 PM |
d. Engines must be derived from production automobiles available
in the USA.
in the USA.
| Scooby South | 02-05-2007 04:04 PM |
[QUOTE=Scooby South;16939667]This DOES not say you can use a motor that was NOT sold in the US...
Bill[/QUOTE]
[quote=teh r00lbook][b]This allows engine blocks
manufactured as production units for sale in other countries
such as Japan or Germany. [/b][/quote]
[QUOTE]:huh:[/QUOTE]
only if the vehicle like a Talon/Eclipe.....which shared the same engine...it does NOT allow a JDM engine...READ....
Theres even a section in there that says what to do with a JDM engined car....:rolleyes:
sheeeeeesh
Bill[/QUOTE]
[quote=teh r00lbook][b]This allows engine blocks
manufactured as production units for sale in other countries
such as Japan or Germany. [/b][/quote]
[QUOTE]:huh:[/QUOTE]
only if the vehicle like a Talon/Eclipe.....which shared the same engine...it does NOT allow a JDM engine...READ....
Theres even a section in there that says what to do with a JDM engined car....:rolleyes:
sheeeeeesh
| PhilC | 02-05-2007 04:15 PM |
If you find any other section in the SM ruleset about what to do with a JDM engined car please quote it. Otherwise the already quoted section specifically says it's legal.
Want that tri-rotor in an FD for SM2? It's legal as long as you don't swap the cross-member (that's an interesting question actually, how DID the Dr get one in there with the stock crossmember?) As long as the block was available in a production car of the same brand anywhere in the world and you can make it fit without changing another part of the car not SM legal then it's SM legal.
For that matter if you can fit a FMIC on a Subaru without cutting or removing the bumper beam that could be SM legal as well. I'm reasonably certain it could be done with a fairly hefty use of the friendly BFH on the bumper beam and that would be legal.
Want that tri-rotor in an FD for SM2? It's legal as long as you don't swap the cross-member (that's an interesting question actually, how DID the Dr get one in there with the stock crossmember?) As long as the block was available in a production car of the same brand anywhere in the world and you can make it fit without changing another part of the car not SM legal then it's SM legal.
For that matter if you can fit a FMIC on a Subaru without cutting or removing the bumper beam that could be SM legal as well. I'm reasonably certain it could be done with a fairly hefty use of the friendly BFH on the bumper beam and that would be legal.
| Scooby South | 02-05-2007 04:17 PM |
[QUOTE=PhilC;16940066]If you find any other section in the SM ruleset about what to do with a JDM engined car please quote it. Otherwise the already quoted section specifically says it's legal.
Want that tri-rotor in an FD for SM2? It's legal as long as you don't swap the cross-member (that's an interesting question actually, how DID the Dr get one in there with the stock crossmember?) As long as the block was available in a production car of the same brand anywhere in the world and you can make it fit without changing another part of the car not SM legal then it's SM legal.
For that matter if you can fit a FMIC on a Subaru without cutting or removing the bumper beam that could be SM legal as well. I'm reasonably certain it could be done with a fairly hefty use of the friendly BFH on the bumper beam and that would be legal.[/QUOTE]
Agree with all that....and I looking....I know its there....
Bill
Want that tri-rotor in an FD for SM2? It's legal as long as you don't swap the cross-member (that's an interesting question actually, how DID the Dr get one in there with the stock crossmember?) As long as the block was available in a production car of the same brand anywhere in the world and you can make it fit without changing another part of the car not SM legal then it's SM legal.
For that matter if you can fit a FMIC on a Subaru without cutting or removing the bumper beam that could be SM legal as well. I'm reasonably certain it could be done with a fairly hefty use of the friendly BFH on the bumper beam and that would be legal.[/QUOTE]
Agree with all that....and I looking....I know its there....
Bill
| Scooby South | 02-05-2007 04:42 PM |
maybe it was in fastrack...but it had a specific Rule regarding JDM swaps...
still looking...If I am wrong..I apologize...
Bill
still looking...If I am wrong..I apologize...
Bill
| solo-x | 02-05-2007 04:46 PM |
Bill, you're probably thinking of the original ruleset that did not explicitly state that JDM/EDM engines were legal. The rule has since been revised to reflect that JDM/EDM motors are allowed.
| Scooby South | 02-05-2007 04:54 PM |
[QUOTE=solo-x;16940507]Bill, you're probably thinking of the original ruleset that did not explicitly state that JDM/EDM engines were legal. The rule has since been revised to reflect that JDM/EDM motors are allowed.[/QUOTE]
that quite possibly could be it...:)...but I remember something specific on it...thanks...sorry for the confusion...carry on...
Bill
that quite possibly could be it...:)...but I remember something specific on it...thanks...sorry for the confusion...carry on...
Bill
| RainMaker | 02-05-2007 04:56 PM |
[QUOTE=PhilC;16940066]For that matter if you can fit a FMIC on a Subaru without cutting or removing the bumper beam that could be SM legal as well. I'm reasonably certain it could be done with a fairly hefty use of the friendly BFH on the bumper beam and that would be legal.[/QUOTE]
It would be legal. It is not practical. The turbos that work well for auto-X dont like much volume to fill prior to fuel enrichment. The little Injen FMIC is the one thats small enough to allow the bumper beam to stay. In testing, it works no better than a larger TMIC, especially given that I have water injection. The TMIC provides measurably better tip-in and response. It can be sprayed (alot) before the run to keep heatsoak from becoming an issue.
The only last issue is that since Ive tried all the ways to fit a FMIC and test it, the front bumper skin is now highly abbreviated. Thats SM legal, but somewhat ugly.
It would be legal. It is not practical. The turbos that work well for auto-X dont like much volume to fill prior to fuel enrichment. The little Injen FMIC is the one thats small enough to allow the bumper beam to stay. In testing, it works no better than a larger TMIC, especially given that I have water injection. The TMIC provides measurably better tip-in and response. It can be sprayed (alot) before the run to keep heatsoak from becoming an issue.
The only last issue is that since Ive tried all the ways to fit a FMIC and test it, the front bumper skin is now highly abbreviated. Thats SM legal, but somewhat ugly.
| afpdl | 02-05-2007 05:03 PM |
[QUOTE=Scooby South;16939700]So you carry a magnet around with you???? [/QUOTE]
Seriously :confused: There are hundreds of magnets at every autox I have ever been to. They are pretty popular to use as numbers.
Seriously :confused: There are hundreds of magnets at every autox I have ever been to. They are pretty popular to use as numbers.
| PhilC | 02-05-2007 05:06 PM |
Didn't say anything about whether it would be a good idea or not. :)
| jamesohoh7 | 02-05-2007 05:38 PM |
[QUOTE=j-rho;16938903]Well, I did leave out the part about the satanic goat sacrifices carried out in the garage. Somehow I doubt Vic and Bob go to all the trouble of filling their tires with the dying gasps of wretched bovines, even if it is worth a tenth or two...[/QUOTE]
:lol: I don't know you, and I'll never be good enough to go to nationals and see you/your car in person, but I will root for you from now on simply b/c of this post... that's a hilarious visual, for sure... made my afternoon, thanks!
:lol: I don't know you, and I'll never be good enough to go to nationals and see you/your car in person, but I will root for you from now on simply b/c of this post... that's a hilarious visual, for sure... made my afternoon, thanks!
| Chiketkd | 02-05-2007 06:47 PM |
[QUOTE=j-rho;16938903]Well, I did leave out the part about the satanic goat sacrifices carried out in the garage. Somehow I doubt Vic and Bob go to all the trouble of filling their tires with the dying gasps of wretched bovines, even if it is worth a tenth or two...[/QUOTE]
Good luck to you Jason. I had to post this on NASIOC after seeing your thread on Fresh Alloy! Good luck in '07! :cool:
Good luck to you Jason. I had to post this on NASIOC after seeing your thread on Fresh Alloy! Good luck in '07! :cool:
| dwx | 02-05-2007 10:31 PM |
My 02 WRX in like 2005 was 2950 lbs with a JDM 6MT. In a perfect world the 6MT would be ditched for a 5MT dogbox. I don't think getting a GD chassis down to 2880 is a huge feat, but like Homemade WRX said, you could put a rollcage in a GC8 and get to the same weight. You can't put a crazy rally rollcage into the car, but I think 8 point cages are legal.
| nxttruck2002 | 02-05-2007 10:54 PM |
[QUOTE=afpdl;16940786]Seriously :confused: There are hundreds of magnets at every autox I have ever been to. They are pretty popular to use as numbers.[/QUOTE]
Alex, check your PM's.
Alex, check your PM's.
| JMS Landshark | 02-06-2007 07:30 AM |
anybody know what wing Tunnell, Sias, and McKee are running?
I have been looking into wings lately and am trying to get a few reference points.
I have been looking into wings lately and am trying to get a few reference points.
| wrrrx | 02-06-2007 09:34 AM |
[QUOTE=RainMaker;16940699]It would be legal. It is not practical. The turbos that work well for auto-X dont like much volume to fill prior to fuel enrichment. The little Injen FMIC is the one thats small enough to allow the bumper beam to stay. In testing, it works no better than a larger TMIC, especially given that I have water injection. The TMIC provides measurably better tip-in and response. It can be sprayed (alot) before the run to keep heatsoak from becoming an issue.
The only last issue is that since Ive tried all the ways to fit a FMIC and test it, the front bumper skin is now highly abbreviated. Thats SM legal, but somewhat ugly.[/QUOTE]
Well, sure, it's a no-brainer that TMIC would work best for AutoX. In fact, if one had an [I][B]AX-specific car[/B][/I], you could certainly get away w/ no intercooler whatsoever! (Although I'd prolly run WI for a bit of cooling).
If you'd really tried [I][B]all[/B] the ways [/I]to fit a FMIC, Chris ;) -how did my "Holy Grail" of intercoolers work out? That would be a rotated manifold tied to a V-mount I/C. (As ever, that *$%# front bumper beam will be a beeotch)
Russ R
PS- this won't get my season off to a good start, but uhhhh... sadly, I will miss the AutoX kickoff party (and PDXT bbq!) this w/e -I'm retrieving my old Mustang out of long, long, [I]looong [/I]term storage.
:disco:
The only last issue is that since Ive tried all the ways to fit a FMIC and test it, the front bumper skin is now highly abbreviated. Thats SM legal, but somewhat ugly.[/QUOTE]
Well, sure, it's a no-brainer that TMIC would work best for AutoX. In fact, if one had an [I][B]AX-specific car[/B][/I], you could certainly get away w/ no intercooler whatsoever! (Although I'd prolly run WI for a bit of cooling).
If you'd really tried [I][B]all[/B] the ways [/I]to fit a FMIC, Chris ;) -how did my "Holy Grail" of intercoolers work out? That would be a rotated manifold tied to a V-mount I/C. (As ever, that *$%# front bumper beam will be a beeotch)
Russ R
PS- this won't get my season off to a good start, but uhhhh... sadly, I will miss the AutoX kickoff party (and PDXT bbq!) this w/e -I'm retrieving my old Mustang out of long, long, [I]looong [/I]term storage.
:disco:
| Homemade WRX | 02-06-2007 09:55 AM |
I think a v-mount/upper radiator fmic would be best for auto-x, small light, short piping and retains the front bumper beam...a tmic sucks for performance (especially when you have to sit still and heat soak it between runs) but does help a small amount with front/rear weight distribution...
| RainMaker | 02-06-2007 02:14 PM |
If you are running water injection, 112 octance, and a Evo3-16g (ie small) snail, a TMIC is actually adequate. A aftermarket TMIC is helpful because it has a lower pressure drop across the intercooler, adding a few tenths of a PSI in boost for the same exhaust back pressure.
I've got to work the tune out, but with the WI and 112, I am thinking I'll be able to run 1st-3rd essentially with the wastegate closed at all times, and some pretty knarly ignition advance. We'll see...
Its *really* hard to tune tip-in enrichment to account for the added volume of even a small FMIC. That loss in response is really a mess in an auto-X
I've got to work the tune out, but with the WI and 112, I am thinking I'll be able to run 1st-3rd essentially with the wastegate closed at all times, and some pretty knarly ignition advance. We'll see...
Its *really* hard to tune tip-in enrichment to account for the added volume of even a small FMIC. That loss in response is really a mess in an auto-X
| Homemade WRX | 02-06-2007 03:13 PM |
I thought akly wasn't allowed?...if I recall there was debate about it and everyone came to the conclusion it wasn't legal...if it is, then a tmic would be fine...still will heat soak sitting in line
as for the fmic and throttle response that isn't anything mild antilag can't take care of
as for the fmic and throttle response that isn't anything mild antilag can't take care of
| RainMaker | 02-06-2007 03:25 PM |
Alky is not allowed. I only inject de-ionized water. I agree alcohol isnt legal as an injectant.
As for anti-lag, the systems that give anti-lag as a reasonable option are systems that actually DO allow you to program the tip-in response correctly (in the time dimension). But then again, a full EM with "Real" anti-lag is Motronic or similar... more than I will spend for now :)
As for anti-lag, the systems that give anti-lag as a reasonable option are systems that actually DO allow you to program the tip-in response correctly (in the time dimension). But then again, a full EM with "Real" anti-lag is Motronic or similar... more than I will spend for now :)
| dwx | 02-06-2007 05:14 PM |
[QUOTE=RainMaker;16951883]If you are running water injection, 112 octance, and a Evo3-16g (ie small) snail, a TMIC is actually adequate. A aftermarket TMIC is helpful because it has a lower pressure drop across the intercooler, adding a few tenths of a PSI in boost for the same exhaust back pressure.
I've got to work the tune out, but with the WI and 112, I am thinking I'll be able to run 1st-3rd essentially with the wastegate closed at all times, and some pretty knarly ignition advance. We'll see...
Its *really* hard to tune tip-in enrichment to account for the added volume of even a small FMIC. That loss in response is really a mess in an auto-X[/QUOTE]
I had a APS 500? whatever their small FMIC was back a couple years ago and that really is the most important part, the tip-in throttle response. I didn't have a noticable amount of lag in that car versus a larger TMIC. Higher compression ratios help with that as well.
My SM car has an A/W setup in it right now but I may test a larger TMIC as well just to see what gains the A/W system gets me, if any. The A/W system is certainly much more complex and like you say, how much gain is there when running a relatively small turbo on C16 gas...
I've got to work the tune out, but with the WI and 112, I am thinking I'll be able to run 1st-3rd essentially with the wastegate closed at all times, and some pretty knarly ignition advance. We'll see...
Its *really* hard to tune tip-in enrichment to account for the added volume of even a small FMIC. That loss in response is really a mess in an auto-X[/QUOTE]
I had a APS 500? whatever their small FMIC was back a couple years ago and that really is the most important part, the tip-in throttle response. I didn't have a noticable amount of lag in that car versus a larger TMIC. Higher compression ratios help with that as well.
My SM car has an A/W setup in it right now but I may test a larger TMIC as well just to see what gains the A/W system gets me, if any. The A/W system is certainly much more complex and like you say, how much gain is there when running a relatively small turbo on C16 gas...
| Homemade WRX | 02-06-2007 08:55 PM |
[QUOTE=RainMaker;16952878]As for anti-lag, the systems that give anti-lag as a reasonable option are systems that actually DO allow you to program the tip-in response correctly (in the time dimension). But then again, a full EM with "Real" anti-lag is Motronic or similar... more than I will spend for now :)[/QUOTE]
or hydra or link or autronic or uber expensive motec...can't recall if aem does or not...
or hydra or link or autronic or uber expensive motec...can't recall if aem does or not...
| RainMaker | 02-06-2007 10:51 PM |
I'm under the impression that real anti-lag (massive injector duty-cycle combined with significant ignition retard [essentially igniting the fuel as it goes out the exhaust valve]) is a bit more rare than that. I'm not aware of a Subaru that has it that isnt in the WRC or similar. I guess I am not that "bleeding edge". :)
And sorry... I meant Motec, not Motronic. That would be kinda funny if Motronic had a hidden anti-lag function. Its exactly what every Volvo 850 needs. ;)
And sorry... I meant Motec, not Motronic. That would be kinda funny if Motronic had a hidden anti-lag function. Its exactly what every Volvo 850 needs. ;)
| Homemade WRX | 02-06-2007 11:21 PM |
yes, I know what antilag is and I know link has a full blown anitlag function (not on the standard 44s but extra) and have been told that hydra has it as well...
There have also been several cars posted on here with it...most not in the US...I will for sure have an antilag map for fun though...besides, I get my dyno time for free :D
There have also been several cars posted on here with it...most not in the US...I will for sure have an antilag map for fun though...besides, I get my dyno time for free :D
| RainMaker | 02-07-2007 02:23 AM |
The Hydra anti-lag stops functioning when the car is in motion, so it's not for the purpose I had in mind...
Showing up with a 06 STi with a Link EM would be bleeding edge to me ;)
I personally think the 380 or so awhp you can get with a Evo3-16g + WI and 112 is enough. The handling, the weight management, and the [I]driving[/I] are all far more beyond my expertise than the power. If it came down to power, I might have had a chance. The $2000 I would spend on a V-mount, EM, or whatever could be well used trying to go to driving schools and would have a much more lasting, fun, and significant result...
J-Rho's cool car, in my hands, wouldnt even trophy. *That* is most of our #1 issue ;)
Showing up with a 06 STi with a Link EM would be bleeding edge to me ;)
I personally think the 380 or so awhp you can get with a Evo3-16g + WI and 112 is enough. The handling, the weight management, and the [I]driving[/I] are all far more beyond my expertise than the power. If it came down to power, I might have had a chance. The $2000 I would spend on a V-mount, EM, or whatever could be well used trying to go to driving schools and would have a much more lasting, fun, and significant result...
J-Rho's cool car, in my hands, wouldnt even trophy. *That* is most of our #1 issue ;)
| JMS Landshark | 02-07-2007 07:06 AM |
There is a car in Jacksonville running some fairly big power and anti-lag.
No info on wings of choice for SM/SM2?
No info on wings of choice for SM/SM2?
| Homemade WRX | 02-07-2007 10:20 AM |
bummer about hydra only being a two step antilag system :(
guess I'll have to get another link ;)
guess I'll have to get another link ;)
| RainMaker | 02-07-2007 10:25 AM |
[QUOTE=JMS Landshark;16961527]No info on wings of choice for SM/SM2?[/QUOTE]
Generally, we (gd subies) all have front traction/pushing issues where we need help. I think it would take a few more notches up before many of us would need a functional rear wing for auto-X. Others should disagree if Im wrong...
Generally, we (gd subies) all have front traction/pushing issues where we need help. I think it would take a few more notches up before many of us would need a functional rear wing for auto-X. Others should disagree if Im wrong...
| JMS Landshark | 02-07-2007 11:33 AM |
[QUOTE=RainMaker;16963003]Generally, we (gd subies) all have front traction/pushing issues where we need help. I think it would take a few more notches up before many of us would need a functional rear wing for auto-X. Others should disagree if Im wrong...[/QUOTE]
I know, there was just alot of good SM discussion and I figured I would ask because spme people on the board may have experience with more than just subies. Thats why I mention Sias, Tunnell, etc. The 240 being built for SM/SM2 is going to have to do the same.
I am still a ways off before I will need the aero. I still don't have a motor at the house to put in the car yet. The interior is getting there.
I know, there was just alot of good SM discussion and I figured I would ask because spme people on the board may have experience with more than just subies. Thats why I mention Sias, Tunnell, etc. The 240 being built for SM/SM2 is going to have to do the same.
I am still a ways off before I will need the aero. I still don't have a motor at the house to put in the car yet. The interior is getting there.
| crystalhelix | 02-07-2007 12:05 PM |
[QUOTE=j-rho;16938903]Well, I did leave out the part about the satanic goat sacrifices carried out in the garage. Somehow I doubt Vic and Bob go to all the trouble of filling their tires with the dying gasps of wretched bovines, even if it is worth a tenth or two...[/QUOTE]
I knew there was something in my setup I was missing.:lol:
I knew there was something in my setup I was missing.:lol:
| Chiketkd | 02-11-2007 02:10 PM |
[B]Update:[/B]
[url]http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=163184&page=2[/url]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/leftside1.jpg[/img]
[quote]Exhaust parts are getting their thermal coating and won't be back for a few weeks. Lots to do in the meantime - vacuum system, breater system, all the new wiring, mount passenger seat.
Gotta get hacking away on the fenders, do the flares, and decide whether or not I want to paint the car...
Trying to be ready for some events in mid/late March here in So Cal (SD Tour and Fontana ProSolo).[/quote]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/gaugetest2.jpg[/img]
[quote]I'll probably be leaving camber mostly alone initially, at least until I get some control over the roll centers and camber curves with some adjustable LCAs. Hoosiers tend to like a lot of camber, though I haven't run on them since the A3S03, so maybe that has changed somewhat.
Kumho is releasing a 305/30-18, so that opens up a 285/305 or the ginormous 305/345 as possible combinations of V710 to run.
Here is a mockup I made of the gauge and switch panel I'll be installing. It was designed using software from Front Panel Express, whose software will also estimate cost and provides a mechanism for ordering. I'll be changing 1-2 little details, then get it ordered in 3 or 4mm thick aluminum.
I'm sure some of you are thinking "with the gauges so far out of the way, how will he ever see them". My answer to is that during an autocross run, we don't ever have time to really look at gauges, except maybe the tach for the 1-2 shift. Unlike the track where you have time in the straightaways to look down and make sure everything is okay, an autocrosser's attention is elsewhere pretty much 100% of the time, so the gauges are more for monitoring things between runs. I'll be datalogging all the important variables anyway, so if something is happening with the motor during a run, if it doesn't blow up right then and there, I'll be able to see what was going on later in looking at the data.[/quote]
[url]http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=163184&page=2[/url]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/leftside1.jpg[/img]
[quote]Exhaust parts are getting their thermal coating and won't be back for a few weeks. Lots to do in the meantime - vacuum system, breater system, all the new wiring, mount passenger seat.
Gotta get hacking away on the fenders, do the flares, and decide whether or not I want to paint the car...
Trying to be ready for some events in mid/late March here in So Cal (SD Tour and Fontana ProSolo).[/quote]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/gaugetest2.jpg[/img]
[quote]I'll probably be leaving camber mostly alone initially, at least until I get some control over the roll centers and camber curves with some adjustable LCAs. Hoosiers tend to like a lot of camber, though I haven't run on them since the A3S03, so maybe that has changed somewhat.
Kumho is releasing a 305/30-18, so that opens up a 285/305 or the ginormous 305/345 as possible combinations of V710 to run.
Here is a mockup I made of the gauge and switch panel I'll be installing. It was designed using software from Front Panel Express, whose software will also estimate cost and provides a mechanism for ordering. I'll be changing 1-2 little details, then get it ordered in 3 or 4mm thick aluminum.
I'm sure some of you are thinking "with the gauges so far out of the way, how will he ever see them". My answer to is that during an autocross run, we don't ever have time to really look at gauges, except maybe the tach for the 1-2 shift. Unlike the track where you have time in the straightaways to look down and make sure everything is okay, an autocrosser's attention is elsewhere pretty much 100% of the time, so the gauges are more for monitoring things between runs. I'll be datalogging all the important variables anyway, so if something is happening with the motor during a run, if it doesn't blow up right then and there, I'll be able to see what was going on later in looking at the data.[/quote]
| KCRex | 02-11-2007 03:34 PM |
[QUOTE=JMS Landshark;16961527]
No info on wings of choice for SM/SM2?[/QUOTE]
lots of the big wings are modified apr units: [url]www.aprperformance.com[/url]
No info on wings of choice for SM/SM2?[/QUOTE]
lots of the big wings are modified apr units: [url]www.aprperformance.com[/url]
| Homemade WRX | 02-11-2007 07:31 PM |
looks like someone is running antilag :devil: also wondering what traction control system he's running.
that car should be quite potent when all is said and done.
that car should be quite potent when all is said and done.
| Chiketkd | 03-01-2007 12:02 PM |
There don't seem to be any new updates on the fresh alloy forum - I think the car is out at the paint shop. J-Rho is registered in SM at the SD Nat'l Tour so it should be interesting to see how he does in the class...
| j-rho | 03-01-2007 02:25 PM |
Car hasn't been out of its garage since it got back from Kansas. With any luck, it'll be running in time to get tuned in advance of the SD Tour.
I'll probably have another update this weekend.
I'll probably have another update this weekend.
| JMS Landshark | 03-01-2007 03:20 PM |
[QUOTE=j-rho;17224394]Car hasn't been out of its garage since it got back from Kansas. With any luck, it'll be running in time to get tuned in advance of the SD Tour.
I'll probably have another update this weekend.[/QUOTE]
I am enjoying weatching you build-up. I am doing my own SM2 build-up (but might end up in XP instead), but at a much slower pace and much smaller budget.
I'll probably have another update this weekend.[/QUOTE]
I am enjoying weatching you build-up. I am doing my own SM2 build-up (but might end up in XP instead), but at a much slower pace and much smaller budget.
| Chiketkd | 03-02-2007 12:58 PM |
Looks like Bob Tunnell is selling his 2006 Nationals SM winning M3:
[img]http://bimmerhaus.com/carlot/tunnell/front.jpg[/img]
[URL="http://bimmerhaus.com/carlot/tunnell/sm1.html"]http://bimmerhaus.com/carlot/tunnell/sm1.html[/URL]
Bob is also giving the buyer a 2 year non-compete agreement and a year's worth of tech support.
[B]Update: [/B]Car was sold to Kevin Youngers.
[img]http://bimmerhaus.com/carlot/tunnell/front.jpg[/img]
[URL="http://bimmerhaus.com/carlot/tunnell/sm1.html"]http://bimmerhaus.com/carlot/tunnell/sm1.html[/URL]
Bob is also giving the buyer a 2 year non-compete agreement and a year's worth of tech support.
[B]Update: [/B]Car was sold to Kevin Youngers.
| PhilC | 03-02-2007 01:56 PM |
$20K for the yellow E30 M3 STX car. If that car were straight I'd buy that in a second. Heck that's like buying that set of shocks and getting a pretty good M3 for $8000. :)
| AUTOwrXER | 03-02-2007 02:39 PM |
[QUOTE=PhilC;17236341]$20K for the yellow E30 M3 STX car. If that car were straight I'd buy that in a second. Heck that's like buying that set of shocks and getting a pretty good M3 for $8000. :)[/QUOTE]
The black E30 M3 is pretty cool too...
The black E30 M3 is pretty cool too...
| Chiketkd | 03-09-2007 11:46 AM |
[B]Update:[/B]
[url]http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=163184&page=3[/url]
[quote]Got an absurd amount of work to do over the next week, don't know how I'm going to get it done.
Some stuff came in today, all the really hot exhaust stuff got a Swaintech coating.
The gauge/switch panel from Front Panel Express arrived also. Pretty happy with it, though the letters came out a bit fatter in the final piece than the print version.[/quote]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/swaincoat.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/frontpanel.jpg[/img]
[url]http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=163184&page=3[/url]
[quote]Got an absurd amount of work to do over the next week, don't know how I'm going to get it done.
Some stuff came in today, all the really hot exhaust stuff got a Swaintech coating.
The gauge/switch panel from Front Panel Express arrived also. Pretty happy with it, though the letters came out a bit fatter in the final piece than the print version.[/quote]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/swaincoat.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/frontpanel.jpg[/img]
| Chiketkd | 03-09-2007 02:06 PM |
One more update:
[quote]If all goes well, the SD Tour will be the car's first event since the metamorphosis. But I still have to:
[LIST][*]Weld quarterpanel area and install flares[*]Complete wiring of AEM EMS, injector resistors, boost solenoid, fans, etc.[*]Fabricate oil return line[*]Finish breather box fittings[*]Get car running, ensure no leaks, and get dyno tuned[*]Get alignment done[*]Mount passenger seat[/LIST][/quote]
[quote]If all goes well, the SD Tour will be the car's first event since the metamorphosis. But I still have to:
[LIST][*]Weld quarterpanel area and install flares[*]Complete wiring of AEM EMS, injector resistors, boost solenoid, fans, etc.[*]Fabricate oil return line[*]Finish breather box fittings[*]Get car running, ensure no leaks, and get dyno tuned[*]Get alignment done[*]Mount passenger seat[/LIST][/quote]
| Chiketkd | 03-16-2007 01:17 PM |
[b]Dyno numbers:[/b]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/dyno14lbs.jpg[/img]
[quote]Had a couple issues at the dyno, (PS pump blew up, fixed now, long story) so the session wasn't complete. We only had time to tune up to 14 pounds of boost. Looks like a pretty autocross friendly curve. Will try to get back to the dyno in the next week or two to get it where it needs to be (20-21lbs). I know some bigger cams would help the top end but I care more about what's happening between 3000-4000 than I do 6000-7000; perhaps if somebody makes a torque and turbo-friendly set with some more lift I'd try them.
Had a little "oops" run with power to the WG turned off (not pictured) - I thought my switch would make it run just off the spring, instead it did the opposite and got to 19psi @3550rpm, where the dyno operator quickly lifted. Torque was already well above peak torque of the run pictured above, so that bodes well for the future.
Ice was good for 2-3 10+ second full-throttle pulls, so it should be good for at least 1-2 autocross runs. If it's a short course and cool out I suspect I can go all 3 runs without messing with it.
I have only driven the car a couple hundred feet since it went on jackstands last October. It now has new spring rates, a new diff, a mostly-removed interior, solid subframe bushings, the crazy clutch and flywheel, etc. etc. It used to feel like a car, now it's some sort of alien spacecraft jalope. Hopefully I can figure out how to drive it quickly around an autocross course by Saturday. Still have a bunch to do tomorrow to get it fully ready, including a wash. I'll get some pics then.[/quote]
[url]http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=163184&page=4[/url]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/dyno14lbs.jpg[/img]
[quote]Had a couple issues at the dyno, (PS pump blew up, fixed now, long story) so the session wasn't complete. We only had time to tune up to 14 pounds of boost. Looks like a pretty autocross friendly curve. Will try to get back to the dyno in the next week or two to get it where it needs to be (20-21lbs). I know some bigger cams would help the top end but I care more about what's happening between 3000-4000 than I do 6000-7000; perhaps if somebody makes a torque and turbo-friendly set with some more lift I'd try them.
Had a little "oops" run with power to the WG turned off (not pictured) - I thought my switch would make it run just off the spring, instead it did the opposite and got to 19psi @3550rpm, where the dyno operator quickly lifted. Torque was already well above peak torque of the run pictured above, so that bodes well for the future.
Ice was good for 2-3 10+ second full-throttle pulls, so it should be good for at least 1-2 autocross runs. If it's a short course and cool out I suspect I can go all 3 runs without messing with it.
I have only driven the car a couple hundred feet since it went on jackstands last October. It now has new spring rates, a new diff, a mostly-removed interior, solid subframe bushings, the crazy clutch and flywheel, etc. etc. It used to feel like a car, now it's some sort of alien spacecraft jalope. Hopefully I can figure out how to drive it quickly around an autocross course by Saturday. Still have a bunch to do tomorrow to get it fully ready, including a wash. I'll get some pics then.[/quote]
[url]http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=163184&page=4[/url]
| DrBiggly | 03-16-2007 02:19 PM |
That's a pretty decent dyno plot. Not a shabby amount of power either. :)
-Biggly
-Biggly
| crystalhelix | 03-16-2007 02:25 PM |
I can't wait to see real deal tuning, and anit-lag dyno curves..
| Homemade WRX | 03-16-2007 05:03 PM |
the blue horspower and torque curves don't match up...and if that is the real torque, he needs a better turbo and some cams...
| afpdl | 03-16-2007 06:12 PM |
[QUOTE=Homemade WRX;17381515]the blue horspower and torque curves don't match up...and if that is the real torque, he needs a better turbo and some cams...[/QUOTE]
They are both just above 360 at aprox 5252, how much do you want them to line up?
They are both just above 360 at aprox 5252, how much do you want them to line up?
| Homemade WRX | 03-16-2007 06:59 PM |
I'm talking the top end...notice hos drastically the torque falls while the hp doesn't really fall or taper until the end.
| afpdl | 03-16-2007 07:05 PM |
Do the math, I checked 6000, 6500 and 6993rpms and torque hp matched fine.
| solo2wrx | 03-16-2007 07:28 PM |
[QUOTE=Homemade WRX;17382801]I'm talking the top end...notice hos drastically the torque falls while the hp doesn't really fall or taper until the end.[/QUOTE]
Jason said he is aware of the torque fall off at the top end and it doesn't bother him all that much because he has a great mid-range on the car and that is what is most important for an autocross car. The dyno plot doesn't look bad to me at all considering that this was the initial tune on the car and he is still working on it.
Jason said he is aware of the torque fall off at the top end and it doesn't bother him all that much because he has a great mid-range on the car and that is what is most important for an autocross car. The dyno plot doesn't look bad to me at all considering that this was the initial tune on the car and he is still working on it.
| Homemade WRX | 03-16-2007 08:13 PM |
[QUOTE=afpdl;17382850]Do the math, I checked 6000, 6500 and 6993rpms and torque hp matched fine.[/QUOTE]
yeah...looks kinda funny...you are right though.
yeah...looks kinda funny...you are right though.
| Chiketkd | 03-16-2007 08:22 PM |
I can't wait to see the final power numbers when his set-up is tuned to 20-21psi! :eek:
| RainMaker | 03-17-2007 09:16 AM |
My 3" green had a power curve kinda like that,, but with more midrange torque.
It was terrible for autoX :(
He needs more from 2-4k rpm
It was terrible for autoX :(
He needs more from 2-4k rpm
| Chiketkd | 03-19-2007 11:12 AM |
[B]Update:[/B]
[quote=J_Rho]Unfortunately today was a bit of an anitclimax, the power steering saga.
Timeline/history:
~Jan. 2007 - order HICAS pro eliminator kit. Remove HICAS solenoid, distribution block, rack, and lines from the car. Kit comes with a couple bolts, which fit perfectly where the high pressure pump output for the rear line went.
Last Tuesday, 2007 - car starts up for the first time since October 2006. No drips or issues observed.
Last Wednesday - Car is driven onto trailer and into a driveway. Some small drippage/seepage observed, could be from errant filling?
Last Thursday - Car is put on dyno. After a bit of time at higher rpm (3-4k) at part throttle, pump begins spewing fluid everywhere. Scramble to Nissan wrecker is made - non-HICAS pump is sourced. We soon discover non-HICAS pump will not bolt onto HICAS-based power steering bracketry. We open up HICAS pump, removed vanes from rear trochoid, and finish dyno. Some small leakage/seepage is observed but nothing too bad.
Friday - Drive the car around a little bit, it's leaking pretty badly. Steering feels bizarre and makes some funny noises.
Today - Arrive early to get PS system working. Remove and disassemble pump. Notice housing is cracked where primary high pressure line inserts - likely my fault due to overtightening. Decide HICAS pump is FUBAR, decide I need to source non-HICAS PS brackets to work with my already acquired non-HICAS pump. Between run groups 2 and 4, travel almost to Mexico (not that far away when you're in SD) to junkyards, and find what is needed in the third one. I get just the brackets because I already have a pump, right? Get back to car, put on non-HICAS bracket, and non-HICAS pump, which doesn't fit at all due to the under-pulley bracket, used for adjusting belt tension, being quite different. Game over, no time left to remedy. Run buddy's STU Evo IX in SM, get spanked with times that would place me at or near the top of STU.
Tomorrow? Wake up early, travel north to father's storage unit. Turns out the S15 SR20DET he bought to swap into his 510 (should be done by the end of '07 I'd wager ) came with a HICAS pump. They're the same, right?? So I'm going to grab that, and see if I can make it work by plugging the HICAS rear channel output, and removing the vanes from its trochoid, as I did with my original pump. And hope it doesn't leak. I can also return to my original plan of putting a zip-tied "diaper" on using a small folded towel, in case it does.
I just want to drive the damn thing! The number of people who expressed their profound disappointment at not getting to see it run was staggering.[/quote]
[quote=J_Rho]Didn't run at all today, was still digging through the near-Mexico junkyards looking for a pump through my run group. Note, that the S15 SR PS pump won't work on a KA, because the adjuster bracket works in a different plane.
So, we'll have to wait for the ProSolo next weekend. In the meantime, here are a couple pics as I went to put the car back in the garage.
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/sm240_1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/sm240_2.jpg[/img]
I still need to install the passenger side hood pin, and do something about the cut I had to make in the hood to clear the motor bits. Also to remove the white clips for the fender's plastic parts. Of course, that's just scratching the surface of the to-do list..[/quote]
[quote=J_Rho]Unfortunately today was a bit of an anitclimax, the power steering saga.
Timeline/history:
~Jan. 2007 - order HICAS pro eliminator kit. Remove HICAS solenoid, distribution block, rack, and lines from the car. Kit comes with a couple bolts, which fit perfectly where the high pressure pump output for the rear line went.
Last Tuesday, 2007 - car starts up for the first time since October 2006. No drips or issues observed.
Last Wednesday - Car is driven onto trailer and into a driveway. Some small drippage/seepage observed, could be from errant filling?
Last Thursday - Car is put on dyno. After a bit of time at higher rpm (3-4k) at part throttle, pump begins spewing fluid everywhere. Scramble to Nissan wrecker is made - non-HICAS pump is sourced. We soon discover non-HICAS pump will not bolt onto HICAS-based power steering bracketry. We open up HICAS pump, removed vanes from rear trochoid, and finish dyno. Some small leakage/seepage is observed but nothing too bad.
Friday - Drive the car around a little bit, it's leaking pretty badly. Steering feels bizarre and makes some funny noises.
Today - Arrive early to get PS system working. Remove and disassemble pump. Notice housing is cracked where primary high pressure line inserts - likely my fault due to overtightening. Decide HICAS pump is FUBAR, decide I need to source non-HICAS PS brackets to work with my already acquired non-HICAS pump. Between run groups 2 and 4, travel almost to Mexico (not that far away when you're in SD) to junkyards, and find what is needed in the third one. I get just the brackets because I already have a pump, right? Get back to car, put on non-HICAS bracket, and non-HICAS pump, which doesn't fit at all due to the under-pulley bracket, used for adjusting belt tension, being quite different. Game over, no time left to remedy. Run buddy's STU Evo IX in SM, get spanked with times that would place me at or near the top of STU.
Tomorrow? Wake up early, travel north to father's storage unit. Turns out the S15 SR20DET he bought to swap into his 510 (should be done by the end of '07 I'd wager ) came with a HICAS pump. They're the same, right?? So I'm going to grab that, and see if I can make it work by plugging the HICAS rear channel output, and removing the vanes from its trochoid, as I did with my original pump. And hope it doesn't leak. I can also return to my original plan of putting a zip-tied "diaper" on using a small folded towel, in case it does.
I just want to drive the damn thing! The number of people who expressed their profound disappointment at not getting to see it run was staggering.[/quote]
[quote=J_Rho]Didn't run at all today, was still digging through the near-Mexico junkyards looking for a pump through my run group. Note, that the S15 SR PS pump won't work on a KA, because the adjuster bracket works in a different plane.
So, we'll have to wait for the ProSolo next weekend. In the meantime, here are a couple pics as I went to put the car back in the garage.
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/sm240_1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.jrho.com/sm240/sm240_2.jpg[/img]
I still need to install the passenger side hood pin, and do something about the cut I had to make in the hood to clear the motor bits. Also to remove the white clips for the fender's plastic parts. Of course, that's just scratching the surface of the to-do list..[/quote]
| crystalhelix | 03-19-2007 11:28 AM |
who sells fender flares like that? I think i'd like to see how one would look on my STi...
off topic so PM me if you know...thanks!
off topic so PM me if you know...thanks!
| Chiketkd | 03-19-2007 11:38 AM |
^
Justin,
Jason never said, but I asked him the question over on the Fresh Alloy forum. I'll let you know his reply...
Chike
Justin,
Jason never said, but I asked him the question over on the Fresh Alloy forum. I'll let you know his reply...
Chike
| Chiketkd | 03-19-2007 01:03 PM |
[QUOTE=crystalhelix;17404812]who sells fender flares like that? I think i'd like to see how one would look on my STi...
off topic so PM me if you know...thanks![/QUOTE]
Not too off topic as this thread is about JRho's car! See answer below:
[quote=J_Rho]Flares and hood were made by raceonusa.com, which has a warehouse only a moderate distance from me - I could pick the parts up instead of paying shipping. The rear flares went pretty well, the front are a bit undersized for my current wheels/tires. The hood was nice and light, and the fit was actually not that bad. Mostly I went with these parts because they were inexpensive.[/quote]
off topic so PM me if you know...thanks![/QUOTE]
Not too off topic as this thread is about JRho's car! See answer below:
[quote=J_Rho]Flares and hood were made by raceonusa.com, which has a warehouse only a moderate distance from me - I could pick the parts up instead of paying shipping. The rear flares went pretty well, the front are a bit undersized for my current wheels/tires. The hood was nice and light, and the fit was actually not that bad. Mostly I went with these parts because they were inexpensive.[/quote]
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