| ellisnc | 04-04-2003 06:44 AM |
haha, yeah I know how the living rooms gets when you're ripping parts out of the car :)
the rear belts are pretty heavy eh?
actually dude I found something else you could probably dump yesterday. The rear lower seat cushion has the two metal retaining brackets bolted to the floor on either side of the car. If no one is riding in the rear you can probably take those off and still get the cushion to stay in place.... Probably around a pound each.
oh yeah!!:disco:
the rear belts are pretty heavy eh?
actually dude I found something else you could probably dump yesterday. The rear lower seat cushion has the two metal retaining brackets bolted to the floor on either side of the car. If no one is riding in the rear you can probably take those off and still get the cushion to stay in place.... Probably around a pound each.
oh yeah!!:disco:
| ellisnc | 04-04-2003 06:57 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by aspera [/i]
[B]If you go really hardcore (and had a rollcage with side bars) you could saw out the inner door and remove the beams and window junk. [/B][/QUOTE]
actually I was looking in Option the other day and saw an Altezza that had this done
The inner panels were cut out of the doors and also on the sides where the doors meet with the sills he had taken a hole saw to them and cut about 6 holes up the side of each door :lol: now that's devotion :)
speed holes
[B]If you go really hardcore (and had a rollcage with side bars) you could saw out the inner door and remove the beams and window junk. [/B][/QUOTE]
actually I was looking in Option the other day and saw an Altezza that had this done
The inner panels were cut out of the doors and also on the sides where the doors meet with the sills he had taken a hole saw to them and cut about 6 holes up the side of each door :lol: now that's devotion :)
speed holes
| aspera | 04-04-2003 08:58 AM |
BAM!
�
�
[url]http://www.subaru.net/cpd/events/2003/rebuild/1/pages/k.htm[/url]
Lookie what I found. Even the PROs do it. Havir's car even keeps power windows!!
[aspera] looking around for a drill:)
One of the pictures shows plywood jammed down into the door so you don't drill ALL the way through.
Lookie what I found. Even the PROs do it. Havir's car even keeps power windows!!
[aspera] looking around for a drill:)
One of the pictures shows plywood jammed down into the door so you don't drill ALL the way through.
| aspera | 04-04-2003 09:01 AM |
[url]http://www.subaru.net/cpd/events/2003/rebuild/1/pages/l.htm[/url]
[music playing in the background]
"Murder by Numbers" by the Police
[music playing in the background]
"Murder by Numbers" by the Police
| ellisnc | 04-04-2003 01:42 PM |
WOOT
THIS IS THE BEST THREAD EVAR!!:lol:
THIS IS THE BEST THREAD EVAR!!:lol:
| bemani | 04-04-2003 02:01 PM |
How do you take out the rear center seatbelt? The reel part has a bolt under that carpet on the back, and I can't figure out how to take that carpet out.
Also, anything good to plug up those holes left from the child seat hooks?
Also, anything good to plug up those holes left from the child seat hooks?
| ellisnc | 04-04-2003 05:41 PM |
pull up... hard
actually I used pliers to squeeze the clips together from underneath and then pulled up
actually I used pliers to squeeze the clips together from underneath and then pulled up
| bemani | 04-04-2003 08:17 PM |
Do you have to take out the cabin stop light first? Because I can't figure out how that goes either.
| ellisnc | 04-04-2003 09:37 PM |
yeah it unbolts from underneath if I remember right
come on man get creative ;)
come on man get creative ;)
| Soon2Bgreat | 04-05-2003 06:36 PM |
so did anyone figure out how much the AC truly weighs?
| QAboy | 04-05-2003 11:09 PM |
i'll try and remember to weigh it when i go home tomorrow
| DoinkMobb | 04-06-2003 12:49 AM |
The rear seat cushions and seat belt mechanisms are next of my list of things to rip out, but I can't quite bring myself to do it.
I mean, if I wanted a 2-seater I would've bought an MR2 or a Miata. Then again, I drive the car alone 95% of the time and the only other passenger I ever have is my GF. Plus I'd be saving about 35 lbs (or so I've heard), which should bring me down to 2300 lbs.
I was thinking of getting some kind of material to cover up the bare metal and the hole to the trunk after the seats are taken out. I'm not sure I'd like to see exposed metal and wires in the back of my car.
I mean, if I wanted a 2-seater I would've bought an MR2 or a Miata. Then again, I drive the car alone 95% of the time and the only other passenger I ever have is my GF. Plus I'd be saving about 35 lbs (or so I've heard), which should bring me down to 2300 lbs.
I was thinking of getting some kind of material to cover up the bare metal and the hole to the trunk after the seats are taken out. I'm not sure I'd like to see exposed metal and wires in the back of my car.
| ellisnc | 04-06-2003 06:03 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Soon2Bgreat [/i]
[B]so did anyone figure out how much the AC truly weighs? [/B][/QUOTE]
I realize this is speculation, but my guess is about 35 pounds for everything... maybe 40
[B]so did anyone figure out how much the AC truly weighs? [/B][/QUOTE]
I realize this is speculation, but my guess is about 35 pounds for everything... maybe 40
| aspera | 04-06-2003 10:31 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by DoinkMobb [/i]
[B]
I was thinking of getting some kind of material to cover up the bare metal and the hole to the trunk after the seats are taken out. [/B][/QUOTE]
How much money ya got?:)
Carbon parts are available to "finish" the rear seat, seat back, and parcel shelf. Footwells and door cards are also made.
[url]http://www.rallytech.co.uk/s_group_n.php[/url]
[B]
I was thinking of getting some kind of material to cover up the bare metal and the hole to the trunk after the seats are taken out. [/B][/QUOTE]
How much money ya got?:)
Carbon parts are available to "finish" the rear seat, seat back, and parcel shelf. Footwells and door cards are also made.
[url]http://www.rallytech.co.uk/s_group_n.php[/url]
| DoinkMobb | 04-06-2003 09:37 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by aspera [/i]
[B]
How much money ya got?:)
Carbon parts are available to "finish" the rear seat, seat back, and parcel shelf. Footwells and door cards are also made.
[url]http://www.rallytech.co.uk/s_group_n.php[/url] [/B][/QUOTE]
I didn't even know parts like that existed. I bet they cost A LOT too.
I was thinking of getting some 1/4" black foam-like material - something I could cut to cover the shape of the back seat area. If you've ever removed the rear bottom seat cushion, there's some material like this covering some wires or something.
Before I rip everything out, I want to make sure I can cover it up again.
[B]
How much money ya got?:)
Carbon parts are available to "finish" the rear seat, seat back, and parcel shelf. Footwells and door cards are also made.
[url]http://www.rallytech.co.uk/s_group_n.php[/url] [/B][/QUOTE]
I didn't even know parts like that existed. I bet they cost A LOT too.
I was thinking of getting some 1/4" black foam-like material - something I could cut to cover the shape of the back seat area. If you've ever removed the rear bottom seat cushion, there's some material like this covering some wires or something.
Before I rip everything out, I want to make sure I can cover it up again.
| bemani | 04-07-2003 01:22 AM |
Anyone have primitive's light weight trunklid?
And if you have a fog cover, you can basically drummel out all the stuff on the bumper that used to hold the fog light. (Or, anything that the cover covers up ;) )
And if you have a fog cover, you can basically drummel out all the stuff on the bumper that used to hold the fog light. (Or, anything that the cover covers up ;) )
| aspera | 04-08-2003 06:07 PM |
*went to U-WRENCH-IT today...COLD!
*found shelter in a Legacy...decided to dissect side mirror:)
*found out that while the shell is plastic, the base is all metal
*found out that the adjuster was lightweight
*realized that I was a strange human because I was doing this:)
This seems like a pretty good place to save weight. Carbon mirrors look great and surely weigh less. They might also reduce drag, clear raindrops, and be quieter. The weight savings is in a good place (high and forward).
The only downsides are functionality and cost (mostly cost).
*found shelter in a Legacy...decided to dissect side mirror:)
*found out that while the shell is plastic, the base is all metal
*found out that the adjuster was lightweight
*realized that I was a strange human because I was doing this:)
This seems like a pretty good place to save weight. Carbon mirrors look great and surely weigh less. They might also reduce drag, clear raindrops, and be quieter. The weight savings is in a good place (high and forward).
The only downsides are functionality and cost (mostly cost).
| ellisnc | 04-08-2003 07:08 PM |
Just in case you guys that are into saving weight on your car haven't really felt the results
I had mine on the track this weekend - one word - amazing
Awesome amounts of grip and changes direction at will
My instructor who was driving a more or less stock WRX was quite impressed and said the car was very nice to drive after taking the wheel in mine. Another instructor who was driving a Z06 said "this car flies" after just riding in the car. I pushed a very well driven C5 very hard in the corners so he had to let me by on the straight.
anyway, it's ALL worth it
I'll post more results from the PCA event in May at Mid Ohio... hopefully there'll be some more humbling going on ;)
I had mine on the track this weekend - one word - amazing
Awesome amounts of grip and changes direction at will
My instructor who was driving a more or less stock WRX was quite impressed and said the car was very nice to drive after taking the wheel in mine. Another instructor who was driving a Z06 said "this car flies" after just riding in the car. I pushed a very well driven C5 very hard in the corners so he had to let me by on the straight.
anyway, it's ALL worth it
I'll post more results from the PCA event in May at Mid Ohio... hopefully there'll be some more humbling going on ;)
| WR xplosive | 04-09-2003 12:15 AM |
struts
�
�
I didnt even know that the TEIN SS coil-over are actually lighter than OEM shocks and struts. TEIN SS weighs 73lbs while in the packaging that includes the wrenches. OEM weighs aprrox. 100lbs :eek: by doing this, I already reduced the weight while having the benefits of the coil-over :cool:
| NeoGeo | 04-09-2003 03:26 PM |
[QUOTE]I didn't even know parts like that existed. I bet they cost A LOT too. [/QUOTE]
Actually, according to [URL=http://www.rhrperformance.com]rhr performance[/URL], the rear seat cushion and back are 550 total. Not that bad for 22lbs of weight savings. They cost less than a pair of CF mirrors.
Actually, according to [URL=http://www.rhrperformance.com]rhr performance[/URL], the rear seat cushion and back are 550 total. Not that bad for 22lbs of weight savings. They cost less than a pair of CF mirrors.
| aspera | 04-10-2003 03:30 PM |
[url]http://www.percyshp.com/sporcommolap.html[/url]
Honda dudes can get Speedglass (polycarbonate) windshields for less than $500. Jeep guys only pay a little over $300.
If the price was lower, I guess you could just replace it if and when it got too scratched up. A rear window would be more streetable, though.
How much would you guys pay for a scratch resistant smoked polycarbonate rear window?
Honda dudes can get Speedglass (polycarbonate) windshields for less than $500. Jeep guys only pay a little over $300.
If the price was lower, I guess you could just replace it if and when it got too scratched up. A rear window would be more streetable, though.
How much would you guys pay for a scratch resistant smoked polycarbonate rear window?
| ellisnc | 04-10-2003 08:24 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by aspera [/i]
[B][url]http://www.percyshp.com/sporcommolap.html[/url]
Honda dudes can get Speedglass (polycarbonate) windshields for less than $500. Jeep guys only pay a little over $300.
If the price was lower, I guess you could just replace it if and when it got too scratched up. A rear window would be more streetable, though.
How much would you guys pay for a scratch resistant smoked polycarbonate rear window? [/B][/QUOTE]
we could just order the STi rear glass when that car comes out...
[B][url]http://www.percyshp.com/sporcommolap.html[/url]
Honda dudes can get Speedglass (polycarbonate) windshields for less than $500. Jeep guys only pay a little over $300.
If the price was lower, I guess you could just replace it if and when it got too scratched up. A rear window would be more streetable, though.
How much would you guys pay for a scratch resistant smoked polycarbonate rear window? [/B][/QUOTE]
we could just order the STi rear glass when that car comes out...
| tifosi77 | 04-11-2003 12:51 AM |
I just happened upon this thread and I thought that I should through my .02 in on this, The WRX is a really nose heavy car and I have done just about every weight saving thing that can be done, but by far the biggest difference was removing al the pieces of the A/C the front of the car feels lighter and the engine seems to rev a little easier (I am not really a butt dyno guy but this actually shocked me) probaly 40lbs, carpet 5-10lbs, all seats and airbages (at least 100lbs), sound deaedining and sealer on the floor pan (this was probably 40lbs), lighter weight brembos, forged colks (14.5lbs each less tires) head liner and door cards, speakers, radio, stock steering wheel, all trunk trim, all interior trim. I am going to weigh my car and let people know how much lighter than stock. The doenside is my car is really really loud, this car is going to seam welded and caged so for mee it is no big deal. For other type of weight loss you will get that from composite door panels, false floors (Carbon Fiber), front seats, rims, and brakes. If anyone needs composites for their WRX let me know I can supply wuite a few things.
| aspera | 04-11-2003 01:08 AM |
How much did the headliner weigh? It couldn't have been much.
| ellisnc | 04-11-2003 05:44 AM |
hey tifosi
if you're going all the way with the car and when you have it seam welded and take all the electrical harnesses out of the car you should remove the unnecessary circuits from them. Wire can add up!
if you're going all the way with the car and when you have it seam welded and take all the electrical harnesses out of the car you should remove the unnecessary circuits from them. Wire can add up!
| ellisnc | 04-11-2003 05:45 AM |
also I think I may have found something else that we could remove.
in the trunk are there is a silver box that looks like an audio amplifier tucked up under the wheelhouse on the right hand side
can anyone confirm what this unit is?
in the trunk are there is a silver box that looks like an audio amplifier tucked up under the wheelhouse on the right hand side
can anyone confirm what this unit is?
| Quick WRX | 04-12-2003 01:25 AM |
This may be stupid, I havent really looked at the rear brakes, but what about removing the backing plate on the rears. Also I have seen race preaped cars with sections of the engine bay walls and floors removed. Just a thought.
| aspera | 04-16-2003 02:28 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by ellisnc [/i]
[B]also I think I may have found something else that we could remove.
in the trunk are there is a silver box that looks like an audio amplifier tucked up under the wheelhouse on the right hand side
can anyone confirm what this unit is? [/B][/QUOTE]
I was looking for something to do today.:)
[B]also I think I may have found something else that we could remove.
in the trunk are there is a silver box that looks like an audio amplifier tucked up under the wheelhouse on the right hand side
can anyone confirm what this unit is? [/B][/QUOTE]
I was looking for something to do today.:)
| NeoGeo | 04-16-2003 05:47 PM |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by ellisnc
also I think I may have found something else that we could remove.
in the trunk are there is a silver box that looks like an audio amplifier tucked up under the wheelhouse on the right hand side
can anyone confirm what this unit is? [/QUOTE]
If we're talking about the same thing (the box before bumper w/couple rubber hoses?), as per Dave of Rallispec, it's a "emission-control" unit. Not sure how essential it is though.
also I think I may have found something else that we could remove.
in the trunk are there is a silver box that looks like an audio amplifier tucked up under the wheelhouse on the right hand side
can anyone confirm what this unit is? [/QUOTE]
If we're talking about the same thing (the box before bumper w/couple rubber hoses?), as per Dave of Rallispec, it's a "emission-control" unit. Not sure how essential it is though.
| ellisnc | 04-16-2003 08:17 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by NeoGeo [/i]
[B]
If we're talking about the same thing (the box before bumper w/couple rubber hoses?), as per Dave of Rallispec, it's a "emission-control" unit. Not sure how essential it is though. [/B][/QUOTE]
no no... this is inside the trunk... it's machined aluminum with what looks like heat sinks on it
[B]
If we're talking about the same thing (the box before bumper w/couple rubber hoses?), as per Dave of Rallispec, it's a "emission-control" unit. Not sure how essential it is though. [/B][/QUOTE]
no no... this is inside the trunk... it's machined aluminum with what looks like heat sinks on it
| Aspen | 04-17-2003 02:29 PM |
[QUOTE]in the trunk are there is a silver box that looks like an audio amplifier tucked up under the wheelhouse on the right hand side[/QUOTE]
It sounds like the fuel controller. You'll need this to run your fuel pump correctly. If you bypass this, you'll be running a bit rich down below.
It sounds like the fuel controller. You'll need this to run your fuel pump correctly. If you bypass this, you'll be running a bit rich down below.
| 128d | 04-17-2003 05:51 PM |
Check out ScoobyMods.com They have some info on this.
| ellisnc | 04-17-2003 05:53 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by 128d [/i]
[B]Check out ScoobyMods.com They have some info on this. [/B][/QUOTE]
got a link?
[B]Check out ScoobyMods.com They have some info on this. [/B][/QUOTE]
got a link?
| 128d | 04-17-2003 08:39 PM |
[url]www.ScoobyMods.com[/url]
| ellisnc | 04-17-2003 08:56 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by 128d [/i]
[B][url]www.ScoobyMods.com[/url] [/B][/QUOTE]
haha, thanks smart guy :)
I meant like to a specific place on the site... I've looked for things there previously and it's pretty poorly organized it seems like and I couldn't find what I was looking for or it took 30 minutes to find something that should have taken 2.
[B][url]www.ScoobyMods.com[/url] [/B][/QUOTE]
haha, thanks smart guy :)
I meant like to a specific place on the site... I've looked for things there previously and it's pretty poorly organized it seems like and I couldn't find what I was looking for or it took 30 minutes to find something that should have taken 2.
| 128d | 04-17-2003 09:00 PM |
Heres the link your looking for...
[url]http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=117[/url]
[url]http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=117[/url]
| aspera | 04-18-2003 01:05 AM |
***?:)
Sorry, I haven't gotten around to looking at it. I DO remember reading about the fuel controller on NASIOC somewhere. Let me see what I can find.
Sorry, I haven't gotten around to looking at it. I DO remember reading about the fuel controller on NASIOC somewhere. Let me see what I can find.
| aspera | 04-18-2003 01:23 AM |
from the "what is a GMA" thread...
�
�
[url]http://www.freebmw.net/yamarocket630/secretproject/Fuel_Pump_Contr/[/url]
Does it look like the silver box in these pix?
EDIT: just noticed that GC cars have the big gray bar under the rear seats, too
Does it look like the silver box in these pix?
EDIT: just noticed that GC cars have the big gray bar under the rear seats, too
| aspera | 04-18-2003 01:40 AM |
THERE be dragons
�
�
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Aspen [/i]
[B]
It sounds like the fuel controller. You'll need this to run your fuel pump correctly. If you bypass this, you'll be running a bit rich down below. [/B][/QUOTE]
If you have engine management, could you bypass it and run the fuel pump at the "high" voltage? Would this heat up the pump and kill it or maybe heat up your gas and make for poor emissions (horrors!)? The WRX fuel system is something that few souls have been brave enough to explore.
Do you mean low RPM or low throttle position? If its low throttle position then this might be a cheap fix for manual boost controllers, right?
[B]
It sounds like the fuel controller. You'll need this to run your fuel pump correctly. If you bypass this, you'll be running a bit rich down below. [/B][/QUOTE]
If you have engine management, could you bypass it and run the fuel pump at the "high" voltage? Would this heat up the pump and kill it or maybe heat up your gas and make for poor emissions (horrors!)? The WRX fuel system is something that few souls have been brave enough to explore.
Do you mean low RPM or low throttle position? If its low throttle position then this might be a cheap fix for manual boost controllers, right?
| ellisnc | 04-18-2003 06:25 AM |
yeah that's it
looks like they've moved it and rewired it there though
oh well... my dreams go out the window:lol:
looks like they've moved it and rewired it there though
oh well... my dreams go out the window:lol:
| Aspen | 04-18-2003 11:04 AM |
[QUOTE]It sounds like the fuel controller. You'll need this to run your fuel pump correctly. If you bypass this, you'll be running a bit rich down below.[/QUOTE]
I guess I was right. :p
I guess I was right. :p
| aspera | 04-18-2003 09:50 PM |
fuel controller and new candidate for removal
�
�
The fuel controller looks to be mounted pretty well. It *could* be a little lower and closer to the center of the car, but is pretty good where it is. I unhooked the remote fuel door release when I was messing around back there. Its easy to do with one hand, but a little harder to put it back. The fuel door flops out if it is unhooked.
I then poked around the grommets in the spare wheel well. I removed the very bottom one (under the spare wheel mounting bolt), and made a small hole in it. Drain holes don't drain when plugged up. They just make rust.
Next, I removed and lightened the bracket behind the rear license plate. This is a typical cheap steel bracket that doesn't do very much. Some stainless fender washers would be better. The great thing about removing this bracket is that it is at the very end of the car, and it doesn't mess up emissions or safety.
I then poked around the grommets in the spare wheel well. I removed the very bottom one (under the spare wheel mounting bolt), and made a small hole in it. Drain holes don't drain when plugged up. They just make rust.
Next, I removed and lightened the bracket behind the rear license plate. This is a typical cheap steel bracket that doesn't do very much. Some stainless fender washers would be better. The great thing about removing this bracket is that it is at the very end of the car, and it doesn't mess up emissions or safety.
| ellisnc | 04-18-2003 10:30 PM |
Re: fuel controller and new candidate for removal
�
�
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by aspera [/i]
[B]The fuel controller looks to be mounted pretty well. It *could* be a little lower and closer to the center of the car, but is pretty good where it is. I unhooked the remote fuel door release when I was messing around back there. Its easy to do with one hand, but a little harder to put it back. The fuel door flops out if it is unhooked.
I then poked around the grommets in the spare wheel well. I removed the very bottom one (under the spare wheel mounting bolt), and made a small hole in it. Drain holes don't drain when plugged up. They just make rust.
Next, I removed and lightened the bracket behind the rear license plate. This is a typical cheap steel bracket that doesn't do very much. Some stainless fender washers would be better. The great thing about removing this bracket is that it is at the very end of the car, and it doesn't mess up emissions or safety. [/B][/QUOTE]
this thread is useless without pics!
[B]The fuel controller looks to be mounted pretty well. It *could* be a little lower and closer to the center of the car, but is pretty good where it is. I unhooked the remote fuel door release when I was messing around back there. Its easy to do with one hand, but a little harder to put it back. The fuel door flops out if it is unhooked.
I then poked around the grommets in the spare wheel well. I removed the very bottom one (under the spare wheel mounting bolt), and made a small hole in it. Drain holes don't drain when plugged up. They just make rust.
Next, I removed and lightened the bracket behind the rear license plate. This is a typical cheap steel bracket that doesn't do very much. Some stainless fender washers would be better. The great thing about removing this bracket is that it is at the very end of the car, and it doesn't mess up emissions or safety. [/B][/QUOTE]
this thread is useless without pics!
| aspera | 04-19-2003 12:27 AM |
_____________
|____________|
The bracket is shaped like that.:)
|____________|
The bracket is shaped like that.:)
| ellisnc | 04-19-2003 06:36 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by aspera [/i]
[B]_____________
|____________|
The bracket is shaped like that.:) [/B][/QUOTE]
:lol:
[B]_____________
|____________|
The bracket is shaped like that.:) [/B][/QUOTE]
:lol:
| aspera | 05-14-2003 09:51 PM |
mostest stupiest mod evar
�
�
I figured that I'd install a passenger rear WRX door handle on the front. That way I could get rid of the lock. I never use it anyway. The whole assembly is modelstly priced and comes prepainted. Sweet!
Weight must go!
Anyway, I easily remove the old one and try to install the new one. Oops! They aren't the same. The rear bolt hole on the one with the lock is moved up over the lock. The non-lock handle has it's bolt hole on the centerline.
F it! I decide to put the original one back in, but without the lock. I just need something to plug the hole. Rally cars use carbon fiber discs for this job. I don't have any carbon fiber discs lying around, so I try a quarter. Too small. Need something bigger.
I now have a Sacagawea dollar where the lock was.:) It's a tight fit, but it works.
Weight must go!
Anyway, I easily remove the old one and try to install the new one. Oops! They aren't the same. The rear bolt hole on the one with the lock is moved up over the lock. The non-lock handle has it's bolt hole on the centerline.
F it! I decide to put the original one back in, but without the lock. I just need something to plug the hole. Rally cars use carbon fiber discs for this job. I don't have any carbon fiber discs lying around, so I try a quarter. Too small. Need something bigger.
I now have a Sacagawea dollar where the lock was.:) It's a tight fit, but it works.
| 128d | 05-15-2003 02:11 AM |
^
Are you kidding? :confused:
Are you kidding? :confused:
| aspera | 05-15-2003 04:05 AM |
I bet nobody's ever done this before...:)
�
�
Sadly, no, but it's only temporary. It looks kinda neat actually. Most people would never notice becasue the lock is chrome and the dollar is also shiny metal.
Eventually, I'd like to have carbon fiber or plastic plug. I just like to copy the little details of the rally cars. If it's good enough for Prodrive, it's good enough for me.
Eventually, I'd like to have carbon fiber or plastic plug. I just like to copy the little details of the rally cars. If it's good enough for Prodrive, it's good enough for me.
| dust12 | 05-15-2003 10:00 AM |
Heres an idea to remove weight from your car. Get an ECUtek flash or Accessflash and sell me your Utec for cheap. That should be good for about 1 lb weight savings.:)
| ellisnc | 07-15-2003 07:11 PM |
updated info...
[IMG]http://24.210.66.43/trunk.jpg[/IMG]
:banana:
any of you boys still around? I can tell you a 2800 pound WRX with race tires feels very very nice on the race track. Even nicer pulling away from 993's down straights with just a boost controller and de-cat.
[IMG]http://24.210.66.43/trunk.jpg[/IMG]
:banana:
any of you boys still around? I can tell you a 2800 pound WRX with race tires feels very very nice on the race track. Even nicer pulling away from 993's down straights with just a boost controller and de-cat.
| aspera | 07-16-2003 12:22 AM |
looks great
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How'd you DO that? Is that color matched spray paint? It looks a little dark, but not bad. You must have taped up everything pretty well. I don't see any overspray.
Why do you still have the center rear seat hook?
Ever consider spraying the rear parcel shelf flat black and losing the cover? That area can be cleaned up pretty easily. There's a ground wire for the rear window defroster that can be relocated to an empty bolt hole behind the driver's C-post cover. Of course that means keeping both C-post covers, but they look nice even though they are heavier.:)
Why do you still have the center rear seat hook?
Ever consider spraying the rear parcel shelf flat black and losing the cover? That area can be cleaned up pretty easily. There's a ground wire for the rear window defroster that can be relocated to an empty bolt hole behind the driver's C-post cover. Of course that means keeping both C-post covers, but they look nice even though they are heavier.:)
| aspera | 07-16-2003 12:30 AM |
Oh, hey. I noticed that you have a forged eyebolt for a harness. I went crazy with those things. I put 'em almost every place that they'd go. The rear shoulder bolts are the best. I've got a net from a WRX wagon hanging between them...but it is empty right now because I'm a weight nut.:)
| ellisnc | 07-16-2003 06:24 AM |
I just got some blue rustoleum at the local hardware store and it matched pretty well... a little bit dark but I didn't want really bright blue either. This is after the melt sheets have all been stripped. The paint looks a little spotty because of the flash... looks cool in person.
The rear seat hook is still there because the rear seat goes in and out depending on what I'm doing with the car. I run the car in SM so I want to try to be at least borderline legal. I mean it's one thing to be taking out the tar and then put everything else back.... it's entirely different to just gut the interior.
There's this rubber/foam mat that covers the whole firewall in the front of the car. It weighs a lot. However I don't suggest taking it out unless you're going all the way with the car. I haven't driven the car yet as the paint is still drying and the carpet has to go back in, but it's going to be loud. There is also some foam crap stuffed into the rear of the front fenders. You can see it if you open the front doors. It's silver. That is coming out too.
I've ordered a roll bar for the car and I use the eyebolts for Takata harnesses ;)
The rear seat hook is still there because the rear seat goes in and out depending on what I'm doing with the car. I run the car in SM so I want to try to be at least borderline legal. I mean it's one thing to be taking out the tar and then put everything else back.... it's entirely different to just gut the interior.
There's this rubber/foam mat that covers the whole firewall in the front of the car. It weighs a lot. However I don't suggest taking it out unless you're going all the way with the car. I haven't driven the car yet as the paint is still drying and the carpet has to go back in, but it's going to be loud. There is also some foam crap stuffed into the rear of the front fenders. You can see it if you open the front doors. It's silver. That is coming out too.
I've ordered a roll bar for the car and I use the eyebolts for Takata harnesses ;)
| aspera | 07-17-2003 12:16 AM |
Silver foam crap in the fenders? Gotta look for that one. Is it legal to have the rear seats installed, but not the pass thru? The pass thru/ arm rest is where most of the weight is. Can you retrofit an older seat back? or maybe an STi seat back?
"Goin' all the way" with the car? That sounds suggestive.:) Tell us how noisy is gets with that pad out. I might have to pull it eventually.
Did you remove the silver tar strips from inside the rear doors? The doors just sound tinny now when you tap on them, thats all.
I just read the fuel tank article in Drive (the Subaru mag). I'm thinking about yanking the remote cable and unbolting the fuel door spring (one nut). If I get hood pins, I could yank both cables and the hood latch.
"Goin' all the way" with the car? That sounds suggestive.:) Tell us how noisy is gets with that pad out. I might have to pull it eventually.
Did you remove the silver tar strips from inside the rear doors? The doors just sound tinny now when you tap on them, thats all.
I just read the fuel tank article in Drive (the Subaru mag). I'm thinking about yanking the remote cable and unbolting the fuel door spring (one nut). If I get hood pins, I could yank both cables and the hood latch.
| ellisnc | 07-17-2003 06:13 AM |
Is that stuff only in the rear doors? I'll have to look for it sometime. Got any pics?
As far as taking the remote release cables out... I took the torsion bars out of the trunk so the lid doesn't hold itself up anymore. I was kind of hoping that the remote release wouldn't work anymore so I could remove that cable but it still works so I'll leave it for now.
Also I took that interior safety latch on the top of the trunk lid out. There is a cable attached to it as well.
As for the rear seat... technically it's only legal to remove the actual seat. I had the whole pass through out so I could fit race tires and all my junk I take to the track. (I really need a truck and trailer) Also gutting the trunk is technically not legal either but that stuff doesn't really weigh much anyway. Also I explained in another thread... locally the competition is good, but no one is even near as close to the end of their weight savings as I am. Again... in my mind it's one thing to have a few things taken out purely for convenience that are marginally against the rules, but it's entirely different to have no carpet, no door panels, no headliner, wipers, etc. and run your car in SM. At nationals it's going to be a different story.
As far as taking the remote release cables out... I took the torsion bars out of the trunk so the lid doesn't hold itself up anymore. I was kind of hoping that the remote release wouldn't work anymore so I could remove that cable but it still works so I'll leave it for now.
Also I took that interior safety latch on the top of the trunk lid out. There is a cable attached to it as well.
As for the rear seat... technically it's only legal to remove the actual seat. I had the whole pass through out so I could fit race tires and all my junk I take to the track. (I really need a truck and trailer) Also gutting the trunk is technically not legal either but that stuff doesn't really weigh much anyway. Also I explained in another thread... locally the competition is good, but no one is even near as close to the end of their weight savings as I am. Again... in my mind it's one thing to have a few things taken out purely for convenience that are marginally against the rules, but it's entirely different to have no carpet, no door panels, no headliner, wipers, etc. and run your car in SM. At nationals it's going to be a different story.
| alster | 07-17-2003 07:13 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by ellisnc [/i]
[B]updated info...
[IMG]http://24.210.66.43/trunk.jpg[/IMG]
:banana:
any of you boys still around? I can tell you a 2800 pound WRX with race tires feels very very nice on the race track. Even nicer pulling away from 993's down straights with just a boost controller and de-cat. [/B][/QUOTE]
Talk about luggage space:rolleyes:. I can't believe you forgot to remove the 3rd brake light. Something like that must way tons!:p
[B]updated info...
[IMG]http://24.210.66.43/trunk.jpg[/IMG]
:banana:
any of you boys still around? I can tell you a 2800 pound WRX with race tires feels very very nice on the race track. Even nicer pulling away from 993's down straights with just a boost controller and de-cat. [/B][/QUOTE]
Talk about luggage space:rolleyes:. I can't believe you forgot to remove the 3rd brake light. Something like that must way tons!:p
| ellisnc | 07-17-2003 07:41 PM |
Like I said... don't remove bits of the interior that look like you're just ripping and tearing!!
Just weighed all the junk I took out at it's right at 10kg = 22lbs - not bad, but looking back on how much I actually did I think I probably wouldn't do it again... it sure looks cool though :rolleyes:
Okay, off to drive the car and see what it sounds like... I doubt it's going to be pretty. :D
Just weighed all the junk I took out at it's right at 10kg = 22lbs - not bad, but looking back on how much I actually did I think I probably wouldn't do it again... it sure looks cool though :rolleyes:
Okay, off to drive the car and see what it sounds like... I doubt it's going to be pretty. :D
| subarud | 07-18-2003 12:56 AM |
ellis~ You could actually get a 3rd brake light cover to fit over the hole if you took that plastic 3rd brake light out.
They are available from cc-b, I think they are around $20 shipped.
~Evan
They are available from cc-b, I think they are around $20 shipped.
~Evan
| ellisnc | 07-18-2003 06:23 PM |
I'd rather spend money on other things... I have it disconnected and you can't see it from the outside anyway because of the tint.
;)
;)
| twhawky | 07-18-2003 08:05 PM |
hey i don't believe any of u metioned cutting out the cat or exsess
sheilding on the exuast put in a light wieght fuel cell get drilled and slotted discs there is some plating and such underneith as well that might be removed could put in a light weight raiator
all things i have looked into or have dun to my capri any thing for a little wate lose to make up for lack of horse power and heavy stereo eq. dropped about 100 lbs which isn't to bad off of a 2400 lb car but its all negated when i get in at need 300lbs my self
th
ps also remove rear (insurance seat) nobody fits in the back any way and all the excess intake plumbing also put in lighter speakers frount doors
sheilding on the exuast put in a light wieght fuel cell get drilled and slotted discs there is some plating and such underneith as well that might be removed could put in a light weight raiator
all things i have looked into or have dun to my capri any thing for a little wate lose to make up for lack of horse power and heavy stereo eq. dropped about 100 lbs which isn't to bad off of a 2400 lb car but its all negated when i get in at need 300lbs my self
th
ps also remove rear (insurance seat) nobody fits in the back any way and all the excess intake plumbing also put in lighter speakers frount doors
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