| ratt_finkel | 06-30-2004 01:37 PM |
G-Stock setup
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Well until recently. I've been running my car with stock alignment specs. 2 weekends ago, I had -1.4 Front camber dialed in, and -1.6 in the rear. And also shod the car with Falken Azenis'...42F 38R pressures.
It was a pretty hot day out, and the car felt very sloppy. It didn't push as much coming out of turns as on the stock tires. But felt lose and disconnected.
This weekend I'll be on a much smaller slower course. However, I'll be expierementing with the Azenis's again.
My question is. Should I dial in more Negative front Camber, and set the rear to 0? Any other suggestions?
It was a pretty hot day out, and the car felt very sloppy. It didn't push as much coming out of turns as on the stock tires. But felt lose and disconnected.
This weekend I'll be on a much smaller slower course. However, I'll be expierementing with the Azenis's again.
My question is. Should I dial in more Negative front Camber, and set the rear to 0? Any other suggestions?
| Fred | 06-30-2004 01:59 PM |
If it's REALLY a GS car, you won't be dialing in more front camber than that. But less rear camber would be good (although you shouldn't be able to adjust that much, either.)
I'd try leaving the front alone, getting the rear camber as close to "upright" as you can, and monkey with rear toe-out (as in, as much as you can get without spinning the car constantly). But I'd also have a 22mm front bar, Koni inserts & Hoosiers. ;)
Might help to share what you've modified on the car.
edit: forgot to add that if you're using street tires, why don't you put a 20mm rear bar on it & run STS? (funner imo)
I'd try leaving the front alone, getting the rear camber as close to "upright" as you can, and monkey with rear toe-out (as in, as much as you can get without spinning the car constantly). But I'd also have a 22mm front bar, Koni inserts & Hoosiers. ;)
Might help to share what you've modified on the car.
edit: forgot to add that if you're using street tires, why don't you put a 20mm rear bar on it & run STS? (funner imo)
| ratt_finkel | 06-30-2004 03:20 PM |
Well I'm not far behind the Cooper S' and SVT Foci right now. And they are all on R-compounds. I know with the addition of those alone, I should be able to secure first 99% of the time.
Plus, I'd have some pretty serious competition in STS. So GS it is for me.
Only mods are a Stromung Cat-back, K&N. Also, I thought it was impossible to dial in an camber period in the rear. Which is why it was so odd to find that much.
Plus, I'd have some pretty serious competition in STS. So GS it is for me.
Only mods are a Stromung Cat-back, K&N. Also, I thought it was impossible to dial in an camber period in the rear. Which is why it was so odd to find that much.
| Brett555 | 06-30-2004 03:36 PM |
Here's my GS setup...
[url]http://www.teamsoloracer.com/drivers/bsetliff03_car.php[/url]
Car has been quick enough locally for many GS wins and a few PAX FTD's, but I still don't think it can hang with the Celicas, MINI's, etc.
I'm currently at 1/8 toe out front and rear. It definitely needs more toe out in the rear, but I've yet to mess with that. I ran Falkens for awhile and used 42F/50R pressures, which seemed to work well. Currently I run Kumho Ecsta V700's and about 42F/52R. Car will rotate sometimes, but not near as much as my old Type R ;-)
[url]http://www.teamsoloracer.com/drivers/bsetliff03_car.php[/url]
Car has been quick enough locally for many GS wins and a few PAX FTD's, but I still don't think it can hang with the Celicas, MINI's, etc.
I'm currently at 1/8 toe out front and rear. It definitely needs more toe out in the rear, but I've yet to mess with that. I ran Falkens for awhile and used 42F/50R pressures, which seemed to work well. Currently I run Kumho Ecsta V700's and about 42F/52R. Car will rotate sometimes, but not near as much as my old Type R ;-)
| Fred | 06-30-2004 03:58 PM |
So could you describe the differences in "feel" and handling characteristics with Kumho V700's vs. Azeni?
And do you have rubbing issues with the 225's and stock springs? I've had some with the STS car, but it's lowered 1.3" in the rear.
Thanks!
And do you have rubbing issues with the 225's and stock springs? I've had some with the STS car, but it's lowered 1.3" in the rear.
Thanks!
| ratt_finkel | 06-30-2004 03:59 PM |
Very cool Brett. I appreciate the help.
My next step will be the V700's. Then Koni Yellow's, and possibly a FSB.
On some of the faster courses the car will rotate a little using trail braking. And the majority of the other courses which are slow and tight, I have to use a combo of trail-braking, and a very mild scandanavian flick to get the car to do anything but push.
But I'm very pleased otherwise with the way the car behaves.
My next step will be the V700's. Then Koni Yellow's, and possibly a FSB.
On some of the faster courses the car will rotate a little using trail braking. And the majority of the other courses which are slow and tight, I have to use a combo of trail-braking, and a very mild scandanavian flick to get the car to do anything but push.
But I'm very pleased otherwise with the way the car behaves.
| Brett555 | 06-30-2004 04:09 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Fred [/i]
[B]So could you describe the differences in "feel" and handling characteristics with Kumho V700's vs. Azeni?
[/QUOTE]
I was real pleased with the Azenis. I ran them at several local events early in the year when it was still cool out (50-60 degrees) and the car handled great. The car definitely handles different with the V700's, but it's hard to explain. As you can see [URL=http://www.teamsoloracer.com/photos/2004_ascc_hartville_brett_1.jpg]here[/URL] body roll definitely becomes a bigger issue with the stickier rubber. When I first switched from the Azenis to the V700's, I hated the car, but as I got used to the Kumhos I got faster.
[QUOTE]
And do you have rubbing issues with the 225's and stock springs? I've had some with the STS car, but it's lowered 1.3" in the rear.
Thanks! [/B][/QUOTE]
Yes, that is the one downside to the 225 Kumhos. With my stock ride height, I get rubbing on the fenderlip in the rear. In fact, I rubbed thru the rubber strip on the drivers side and need to replace it. As the tires wear
they rub less and less, and now I hardly notice any rubbing. Another local 2.5 RS owner who runs in G Stock had the 225 Victoracers and those seemed to rub a little worse than mine.
[B]So could you describe the differences in "feel" and handling characteristics with Kumho V700's vs. Azeni?
[/QUOTE]
I was real pleased with the Azenis. I ran them at several local events early in the year when it was still cool out (50-60 degrees) and the car handled great. The car definitely handles different with the V700's, but it's hard to explain. As you can see [URL=http://www.teamsoloracer.com/photos/2004_ascc_hartville_brett_1.jpg]here[/URL] body roll definitely becomes a bigger issue with the stickier rubber. When I first switched from the Azenis to the V700's, I hated the car, but as I got used to the Kumhos I got faster.
[QUOTE]
And do you have rubbing issues with the 225's and stock springs? I've had some with the STS car, but it's lowered 1.3" in the rear.
Thanks! [/B][/QUOTE]
Yes, that is the one downside to the 225 Kumhos. With my stock ride height, I get rubbing on the fenderlip in the rear. In fact, I rubbed thru the rubber strip on the drivers side and need to replace it. As the tires wear
they rub less and less, and now I hardly notice any rubbing. Another local 2.5 RS owner who runs in G Stock had the 225 Victoracers and those seemed to rub a little worse than mine.
| ratt_finkel | 06-30-2004 04:23 PM |
So what kind of camber if any are you running? How are those toe settings affecting your daily driving tires?
And I snagged this pic from your site because it looks so similar to mine :)
[img]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDU2NTA0NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDU2NTAzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[/img]
And I snagged this pic from your site because it looks so similar to mine :)
[img]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDU2NTA0NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDU2NTAzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[/img]
| Brett555 | 06-30-2004 04:31 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by ratt_finkel [/i]
[B]So what kind of camber if any are you running? How are those toe settings affecting your daily driving tires?
And I snagged this pic from your site because it looks so similar to mine :)
[/B][/QUOTE]
Not sure exactly on my camber settings, I'd have to dig up the specs, but the local alignment shop got as much negative camber as they could. I haven't really noticed any abnormal wear on my street tires, but then again I don't drive the car that much. One of our local Impreza drivers adjusts his rear toe at the event site then sets it back for street driving. I need to try that but I'm too lazy ;-)
And yea, that pic does look familiar! Lots of body roll with these cars!
[B]So what kind of camber if any are you running? How are those toe settings affecting your daily driving tires?
And I snagged this pic from your site because it looks so similar to mine :)
[/B][/QUOTE]
Not sure exactly on my camber settings, I'd have to dig up the specs, but the local alignment shop got as much negative camber as they could. I haven't really noticed any abnormal wear on my street tires, but then again I don't drive the car that much. One of our local Impreza drivers adjusts his rear toe at the event site then sets it back for street driving. I need to try that but I'm too lazy ;-)
And yea, that pic does look familiar! Lots of body roll with these cars!
| Scooby Freak | 07-01-2004 07:32 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by [email][email�protected][/email][/i]
[B] One of our local Impreza drivers adjusts his rear toe at the event site then sets it back for street driving. I need to try that but I'm too lazy ;-)[/B][/QUOTE]
I just started doing this and it makes the car feel great. I have the rear toe maxed out and it makes the car feel very loose, but I haven't spun it yet. (knocks on wood) I bring a set of ramps & a 17mm rachet to loosen the cam bolt, then spin it all the way & tighten it. I put a couple marks so that I can return it to zero easily.
I run in D-stock, but it looks like the setup is the same.
A thicker front sway bar will control some of that body roll and make the car feel better through slaloms.
[B] One of our local Impreza drivers adjusts his rear toe at the event site then sets it back for street driving. I need to try that but I'm too lazy ;-)[/B][/QUOTE]
I just started doing this and it makes the car feel great. I have the rear toe maxed out and it makes the car feel very loose, but I haven't spun it yet. (knocks on wood) I bring a set of ramps & a 17mm rachet to loosen the cam bolt, then spin it all the way & tighten it. I put a couple marks so that I can return it to zero easily.
I run in D-stock, but it looks like the setup is the same.
A thicker front sway bar will control some of that body roll and make the car feel better through slaloms.
| subrew2 | 07-01-2004 08:00 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by ratt_finkel [/i]
[B]Very cool Brett. I appreciate the help.
My next step will be the V700's. Then Koni Yellow's, and possibly a FSB.
[/B][/QUOTE]
You might consider just running the Koni's up front, and KYB AGX in the rear. The front of the 2.5 can benefit from mucho increased front rebound, to help keep it sucked down on the soft springs. But, it also benefits from some decent compression in the rear to help it rotate and drive off corners better. Brian Priebe ran stock Konis and KYBs on Koni's dyno (i have the charts he sent me somewhere...) and the stock Konis didn't have enough compression in the back, in his opinion. He ended up revalving several sets of Konis for his use, and his final rear setup ended up just about a match for stock KYBs.
If I jumped into G-stock again, I would run revalved konis up front and stock KYBs in the rear.
Have you guys tried a bigger front bar yet? I ran a 22mm mrt front bar.
Chris H.
[url]www.subrew.com[/url]
[B]Very cool Brett. I appreciate the help.
My next step will be the V700's. Then Koni Yellow's, and possibly a FSB.
[/B][/QUOTE]
You might consider just running the Koni's up front, and KYB AGX in the rear. The front of the 2.5 can benefit from mucho increased front rebound, to help keep it sucked down on the soft springs. But, it also benefits from some decent compression in the rear to help it rotate and drive off corners better. Brian Priebe ran stock Konis and KYBs on Koni's dyno (i have the charts he sent me somewhere...) and the stock Konis didn't have enough compression in the back, in his opinion. He ended up revalving several sets of Konis for his use, and his final rear setup ended up just about a match for stock KYBs.
If I jumped into G-stock again, I would run revalved konis up front and stock KYBs in the rear.
Have you guys tried a bigger front bar yet? I ran a 22mm mrt front bar.
Chris H.
[url]www.subrew.com[/url]
| ratt_finkel | 07-01-2004 06:03 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by subrew2 [/i]
[B]You might consider just running the Koni's up front, and KYB AGX in the rear. The front of the 2.5 can benefit from mucho increased front rebound, to help keep it sucked down on the soft springs. But, it also benefits from some decent compression in the rear to help it rotate and drive off corners better. Brian Priebe ran stock Konis and KYBs on Koni's dyno (i have the charts he sent me somewhere...) and the stock Konis didn't have enough compression in the back, in his opinion. He ended up revalving several sets of Konis for his use, and his final rear setup ended up just about a match for stock KYBs.
If I jumped into G-stock again, I would run revalved konis up front and stock KYBs in the rear.
Have you guys tried a bigger front bar yet? I ran a 22mm mrt front bar.
Chris H.
[url]www.subrew.com[/url] [/B][/QUOTE]
I thought the Koni's offerd not only more dampening, but more adjustment as well. Can you tell me why in more detail that the KYB's would be better(lamens terms).
Would I be better off just going with KYB's all around? I've never liked the idea of mis-matching shocks.
[B]You might consider just running the Koni's up front, and KYB AGX in the rear. The front of the 2.5 can benefit from mucho increased front rebound, to help keep it sucked down on the soft springs. But, it also benefits from some decent compression in the rear to help it rotate and drive off corners better. Brian Priebe ran stock Konis and KYBs on Koni's dyno (i have the charts he sent me somewhere...) and the stock Konis didn't have enough compression in the back, in his opinion. He ended up revalving several sets of Konis for his use, and his final rear setup ended up just about a match for stock KYBs.
If I jumped into G-stock again, I would run revalved konis up front and stock KYBs in the rear.
Have you guys tried a bigger front bar yet? I ran a 22mm mrt front bar.
Chris H.
[url]www.subrew.com[/url] [/B][/QUOTE]
I thought the Koni's offerd not only more dampening, but more adjustment as well. Can you tell me why in more detail that the KYB's would be better(lamens terms).
Would I be better off just going with KYB's all around? I've never liked the idea of mis-matching shocks.
| subrew2 | 07-02-2004 08:07 AM |
stock Konis have a fixed compression valving, and only the rebound is adjustable. KYBs adjust both the rebound and compression at the same time.
From my experience, the front of a G-stock 2.5RS can benefit from increased rebound valving, but doesn't need/want lots of compression. In the rear, good amounts of both compression and rebound are helpful. KYB rears have more compression capability (when turned up) than stock Konis.
Chris H.
From my experience, the front of a G-stock 2.5RS can benefit from increased rebound valving, but doesn't need/want lots of compression. In the rear, good amounts of both compression and rebound are helpful. KYB rears have more compression capability (when turned up) than stock Konis.
Chris H.
| ratt_finkel | 07-02-2004 10:50 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by subrew2 [/i]
[B]stock Konis have a fixed compression valving, and only the rebound is adjustable. KYBs adjust both the rebound and compression at the same time.
From my experience, the front of a G-stock 2.5RS can benefit from increased rebound valving, but doesn't need/want lots of compression. In the rear, good amounts of both compression and rebound are helpful. KYB rears have more compression capability (when turned up) than stock Konis.
Chris H. [/B][/QUOTE]
By compression do you mean Bound? As in when the shock is pushed in, versus rebound where it is extended, i.e. Massive amounts of body roll.
[B]stock Konis have a fixed compression valving, and only the rebound is adjustable. KYBs adjust both the rebound and compression at the same time.
From my experience, the front of a G-stock 2.5RS can benefit from increased rebound valving, but doesn't need/want lots of compression. In the rear, good amounts of both compression and rebound are helpful. KYB rears have more compression capability (when turned up) than stock Konis.
Chris H. [/B][/QUOTE]
By compression do you mean Bound? As in when the shock is pushed in, versus rebound where it is extended, i.e. Massive amounts of body roll.
| subrew2 | 07-02-2004 11:00 AM |
Compression is somtimes referred to as "bump." And yes, compression or bump is when the shock is compressed. Rebound is when the shock is being extended. Adjusting the valving characteristics of both parameters can effect the car differently.
Chris H.
Chris H.
| ratt_finkel | 07-02-2004 11:06 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by subrew2 [/i]
[B]Compression is somtimes referred to as "bump." And yes, compression or bump is when the shock is compressed. Rebound is when the shock is being extended. Adjusting the valving characteristics of both parameters can effect the car differently.
Chris H. [/B][/QUOTE]
Right, as the last key in reducing body movments.
[B]Compression is somtimes referred to as "bump." And yes, compression or bump is when the shock is compressed. Rebound is when the shock is being extended. Adjusting the valving characteristics of both parameters can effect the car differently.
Chris H. [/B][/QUOTE]
Right, as the last key in reducing body movments.
| ratt_finkel | 03-09-2005 03:45 PM |
Well I just orderd the 710's and have run a couple events with a 22mm iPd Bar. Shocks will be next on my list. Chris, could you possibly dig up those specs that Brian sent you? Or send him over here?
Jeremy "going to be wrestling with fitting oversized tires in the rear of a GC this weekend" Foley
Jeremy "going to be wrestling with fitting oversized tires in the rear of a GC this weekend" Foley
| solo-x | 03-11-2005 10:08 AM |
[QUOTE=subrew2]stock Konis have a fixed compression valving, and only the rebound is adjustable. KYBs adjust both the rebound and compression at the same time.
From my experience, the front of a G-stock 2.5RS can benefit from increased rebound valving, but doesn't need/want lots of compression. In the rear, good amounts of both compression and rebound are helpful. KYB rears have more compression capability (when turned up) than stock Konis.
Chris H.[/QUOTE]
i don't really agree with that statement on the kyb's. i've seen dynos of the kyb's for civics compared to koni's for civics and the forces the kyb's generated weren't higher in the low speed range in either bump or rebound compared to the koni's. [url=http://www.koni-na.com/presentations/civic/slide9.html]click here for dyno plot.[/url] the kyb's DO have more high speed bump force, making for a shock that feels harsher and gives the impression of more bump force at low speed. revalved koni inserts are going to give you the wide adjustment range in rebound the koni's have plus a boatload of low speed bump. convert them to DA and you're even better off.
From my experience, the front of a G-stock 2.5RS can benefit from increased rebound valving, but doesn't need/want lots of compression. In the rear, good amounts of both compression and rebound are helpful. KYB rears have more compression capability (when turned up) than stock Konis.
Chris H.[/QUOTE]
i don't really agree with that statement on the kyb's. i've seen dynos of the kyb's for civics compared to koni's for civics and the forces the kyb's generated weren't higher in the low speed range in either bump or rebound compared to the koni's. [url=http://www.koni-na.com/presentations/civic/slide9.html]click here for dyno plot.[/url] the kyb's DO have more high speed bump force, making for a shock that feels harsher and gives the impression of more bump force at low speed. revalved koni inserts are going to give you the wide adjustment range in rebound the koni's have plus a boatload of low speed bump. convert them to DA and you're even better off.
| ratt_finkel | 03-11-2005 11:19 AM |
Well I don't know how to read a shock dyno. But I appreciate the help and 2nd opinion. I've been contemplating just running some JDM v6 STi shocks.
EDIT: Do you have any practical experience autocrossing or racing on the KYB's and Koni's in an RS?
EDIT: Do you have any practical experience autocrossing or racing on the KYB's and Koni's in an RS?
| 10th Warrior | 03-11-2005 12:31 PM |
the AGX vary quite a bit from one application to the next though.
| Draken | 03-11-2005 12:34 PM |
Looking at that koni chart...for the Civic, i guess i'm not sure how solo-x disagrees with me. At full firm, the KYB and Koni have similar rebound low-speed valving up to roughly 0.060 m/sec. The KYB has greater low speed bump than the koni in those same piston shaft speeds. That is what i referenced. Basically, for a g-stock 2.5RS, Brian Priebe found that increased low-speed bump valving in the rear was a good thing, to help it drive off corners better. All i said, was that in a low cost application, KYB AGX are better than off-the-shelf konis in this respect.
I fully agree that you can revalve the konis and convert to DA. But we were talking cheap solutions.
My g-stock setup consited of used ($200) KYBs and a used (case of beer) 22mm front bar. If i was doing it now, i would have the money to spend on shocks.
Chris H.
I fully agree that you can revalve the konis and convert to DA. But we were talking cheap solutions.
My g-stock setup consited of used ($200) KYBs and a used (case of beer) 22mm front bar. If i was doing it now, i would have the money to spend on shocks.
Chris H.
| ratt_finkel | 03-11-2005 02:51 PM |
[QUOTE=Draken]Looking at that koni chart...for the Civic, i guess i'm not sure how solo-x disagrees with me. At full firm, the KYB and Koni have similar rebound low-speed valving up to roughly 0.060 m/sec. The KYB has greater low speed bump than the koni in those same piston shaft speeds. That is what i referenced. Basically, for a g-stock 2.5RS, Brian Priebe found that increased low-speed bump valving in the rear was a good thing, to help it drive off corners better. All i said, was that in a low cost application, KYB AGX are better than off-the-shelf konis in this respect.
I fully agree that you can revalve the konis and convert to DA. But we were talking cheap solutions.
My g-stock setup consited of used ($200) KYBs and a used (case of beer) 22mm front bar. If i was doing it now, i would have the money to spend on shocks.
Chris H.[/QUOTE]
Hey Chris, I'd be more than happy to accept donated shocks ;)
I fully agree that you can revalve the konis and convert to DA. But we were talking cheap solutions.
My g-stock setup consited of used ($200) KYBs and a used (case of beer) 22mm front bar. If i was doing it now, i would have the money to spend on shocks.
Chris H.[/QUOTE]
Hey Chris, I'd be more than happy to accept donated shocks ;)
| adhowe70 | 03-11-2005 07:46 PM |
My KYB's are about to come off my Impreza. But the spring perch is already worn out. :p
| ratt_finkel | 03-14-2005 12:51 PM |
[QUOTE=adhowe70]My KYB's are about to come off my Impreza. But the spring perch is already worn out. :p[/QUOTE]
haha!
Actually I may be interested in them. PM me the details.
haha!
Actually I may be interested in them. PM me the details.
| ratt_finkel | 04-04-2005 05:58 PM |
Ok, guys I'm gonna need your help on this. Everyone in my region is pushing me to get shocks on the suby. I might be a decent driver, but I can't tell where the shocks are lacking. I need new ones, the big ones, by tonight!
No seriously. What's the verdict? Revalved Koni's in the front? Kyb's in the rear? kyb's or Koni's all around? I would like a tad more rotation.
P.S. Can anyone get ahold of Brian Priebe?
No seriously. What's the verdict? Revalved Koni's in the front? Kyb's in the rear? kyb's or Koni's all around? I would like a tad more rotation.
P.S. Can anyone get ahold of Brian Priebe?
| Fred | 04-04-2005 07:47 PM |
pm fullup1 about his setup. I think it's ots konis front, AGXes rear, rear toe-out & V710's. Not sure about front bar; might be stock.
he just took ftpax at a local autox on Sunday over trhoppe, so whatever he has, it's working... :lol:
he just took ftpax at a local autox on Sunday over trhoppe, so whatever he has, it's working... :lol:
| ax_sti | 04-04-2005 08:32 PM |
don't think he has any rear toe out. believe it to be set at zero. IIRC he does have a larger than stock front sway bar.
matt
47 ESP / STU
blue ridge region scca
matt
47 ESP / STU
blue ridge region scca
| adhowe70 | 04-04-2005 09:09 PM |
He has to have toe out in the rear unless its slick asphalt. More grip = more rear toe out. And trhoppe is a hack. Anyone can out PAX him! ;)
Regarding the original topic: Shocks - What's your budget? Seriously. Shocks can run you from $100 to $2000 per corner, depending on what you want to spend. There is an improvement in performance with the higher dollar units, too. Off the shelf, the KYB's are pretty good. A set can be had for $500 new.
A better question is: Why shocks? What are you trying to fix? This will determine the correct answer. If your budget is limited, do your research and take your time. Get dyno charts for the different shocks if you can. If you have questions, ask (even email me if you want).
Andy H. <----- loves his Penske DA remote reservoir shocks, just not their price tag
Regarding the original topic: Shocks - What's your budget? Seriously. Shocks can run you from $100 to $2000 per corner, depending on what you want to spend. There is an improvement in performance with the higher dollar units, too. Off the shelf, the KYB's are pretty good. A set can be had for $500 new.
A better question is: Why shocks? What are you trying to fix? This will determine the correct answer. If your budget is limited, do your research and take your time. Get dyno charts for the different shocks if you can. If you have questions, ask (even email me if you want).
Andy H. <----- loves his Penske DA remote reservoir shocks, just not their price tag
| Butt Dyno | 04-05-2005 01:20 AM |
[QUOTE=ratt_finkel]Plus, I'd have some pretty serious competition in STS. So GS it is for me.[/QUOTE]The flip side of this is - you always know where you are. You can see how much you're losing/gaining versus the people who are always successful. Not as easy in a smaller/less contested class.
| Craigs | 04-05-2005 01:38 AM |
The next things I would get for the car are:
a harness if not already
toe out in rear
shocks - koni fronts and kyb rears
front bar
rota slipstreams
hoosiers or v710s - sizing dependent upon gearing - it you aren't running out of 2nd then 215 40
My car with KYBs front bar and Azenis
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/davenow/DSCN0153.jpg[/IMG]
a harness if not already
toe out in rear
shocks - koni fronts and kyb rears
front bar
rota slipstreams
hoosiers or v710s - sizing dependent upon gearing - it you aren't running out of 2nd then 215 40
My car with KYBs front bar and Azenis
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/davenow/DSCN0153.jpg[/IMG]
| ax_sti | 04-05-2005 07:55 AM |
he "has" to have toe out?
I dunno. I know phil and the car pretty well, and I'm 99% certain the toe is set at zero.
if you are being ironic or humorous, then forgive me; obviously I miseed it. no coffee yet this morning.
I dunno. I know phil and the car pretty well, and I'm 99% certain the toe is set at zero.
if you are being ironic or humorous, then forgive me; obviously I miseed it. no coffee yet this morning.
| ratt_finkel | 04-05-2005 01:50 PM |
The cars current setup is iPd 22m front bar, Stromung cat-back, and 225/50/16 710's. 1/4" toe out in the front, max negative camber all around.
That setup with me driving was good enough for 13th in PAX at the Houston Tour, 2nd in class.
Andy, I would like to reduce body roll, and brake dive more. Budget is undetermined right now. But consider it low. Unless I get a new job (will know next week). I might not have any budget.
EDIT: That was only my 3rd event on R-Compounds. So obviously I have lots of improvment I can do. But I learned alot about the "new" limits of the car at that tour.
That setup with me driving was good enough for 13th in PAX at the Houston Tour, 2nd in class.
Andy, I would like to reduce body roll, and brake dive more. Budget is undetermined right now. But consider it low. Unless I get a new job (will know next week). I might not have any budget.
EDIT: That was only my 3rd event on R-Compounds. So obviously I have lots of improvment I can do. But I learned alot about the "new" limits of the car at that tour.
| Fred | 04-05-2005 04:04 PM |
You're not going to reduce body roll much more on a GS 2.5RS without spending a whole lot of money. :(
All the upgraded struts will do is better control compression & extension of the springs, to really reduce body roll you'll have to have some SERIOUS damping. :eek: :lol:
I had a set of Tein HG's which had 200 lb/in front & 170 lb/in rear springs, and VERY little body roll... the rebound damping was stiffer than the Konis at full stiff, and the compression damping was almost equal to the rebound. They were also about $2000 for a set of 4 struts... :lol:
All the upgraded struts will do is better control compression & extension of the springs, to really reduce body roll you'll have to have some SERIOUS damping. :eek: :lol:
I had a set of Tein HG's which had 200 lb/in front & 170 lb/in rear springs, and VERY little body roll... the rebound damping was stiffer than the Konis at full stiff, and the compression damping was almost equal to the rebound. They were also about $2000 for a set of 4 struts... :lol:
| trhoppe | 04-05-2005 04:14 PM |
I would agree with ots konis front and agxs rear for a budget setup. Otherwise, get the fronts degassed and the rebound cranked, while having the rear compression and rebound cranked on a set of konis that you were to have revalved.
22-24mm bar, toe out, V710s and you are set.
-Tom
22-24mm bar, toe out, V710s and you are set.
-Tom
| ratt_finkel | 04-05-2005 05:10 PM |
[QUOTE=trhoppe]I would agree with ots konis front and agxs rear for a budget setup. Otherwise, get the fronts degassed and the rebound cranked, while having the rear compression and rebound cranked on a set of konis that you were to have revalved.
22-24mm bar, toe out, V710s and you are set.
-Tom[/QUOTE]
Where can I find a 24mm bar? Or bigger?
Where to get OTS Koni's revalved like you stated?
22-24mm bar, toe out, V710s and you are set.
-Tom[/QUOTE]
Where can I find a 24mm bar? Or bigger?
Where to get OTS Koni's revalved like you stated?
| trhoppe | 04-05-2005 05:16 PM |
Bar - Whiteline, 22, 24, or 28 [url]http://www.whiteline.com.au/[/url]
Konis - Koni, ProParts, TriPoint
Konis - Koni, ProParts, TriPoint
| ratt_finkel | 04-05-2005 06:31 PM |
[QUOTE=trhoppe]Bar - Whiteline, 22, 24, or 28 [url]http://www.whiteline.com.au/[/url]
Konis - Koni, ProParts, TriPoint[/QUOTE]
Aren't those for the GC8?
So I should call either of those vendors and say I want the fronts degassed, and the rebound cranked up? That doesn't sounds like it's enough info.
Konis - Koni, ProParts, TriPoint[/QUOTE]
Aren't those for the GC8?
So I should call either of those vendors and say I want the fronts degassed, and the rebound cranked up? That doesn't sounds like it's enough info.
| adhowe70 | 04-05-2005 08:56 PM |
Brake dive: increase front compression and rear rebound.
Body roll: increase damping all around.
Both of these need to happen at stupid damping rates which will kill you over the bumps. So, you want a double digressive build (digressive on both compression and rebound) and you want the digressive break to happen at about 1 inch per second.
Damping rates: You need lots of rear roll stiffness in general, so try 250 pounds at 1 inch per second compression and 300 pounds at one inch per second rebound. At the front end, I'd probably use similar rebound rates, but softer on compression. Go adjustable and have the adjustment give you a wide range to work with.
Sway bars... I know they make 20 and 22mm non-adjustable front bars that fit the GC6. Talk to 10th Warrior (mugwump on SCCAForums) because he has (had?) my old 20mm front bar. Also get some solid front endlinks.
Andy H.
Body roll: increase damping all around.
Both of these need to happen at stupid damping rates which will kill you over the bumps. So, you want a double digressive build (digressive on both compression and rebound) and you want the digressive break to happen at about 1 inch per second.
Damping rates: You need lots of rear roll stiffness in general, so try 250 pounds at 1 inch per second compression and 300 pounds at one inch per second rebound. At the front end, I'd probably use similar rebound rates, but softer on compression. Go adjustable and have the adjustment give you a wide range to work with.
Sway bars... I know they make 20 and 22mm non-adjustable front bars that fit the GC6. Talk to 10th Warrior (mugwump on SCCAForums) because he has (had?) my old 20mm front bar. Also get some solid front endlinks.
Andy H.
| Draken | 04-05-2005 09:06 PM |
I had a 22mm MRT front bar on my G-stock RS.
Chris H.
Chris H.
| Craigs | 04-05-2005 09:14 PM |
The heavy duty endlinks (not the wire ones) from whiteline and 22mm bsf19x or 24mm bsf20x bars.
Craig
Craig
| ratt_finkel | 04-06-2005 09:57 AM |
[QUOTE=adhowe70]Brake dive: increase front compression and rear rebound.
Body roll: increase damping all around.
Both of these need to happen at stupid damping rates which will kill you over the bumps. So, you want a double digressive build (digressive on both compression and rebound) and you want the digressive break to happen at about 1 inch per second.
Damping rates: You need lots of rear roll stiffness in general, so try 250 pounds at 1 inch per second compression and 300 pounds at one inch per second rebound. At the front end, I'd probably use similar rebound rates, but softer on compression. Go adjustable and have the adjustment give you a wide range to work with.
Sway bars... I know they make 20 and 22mm non-adjustable front bars that fit the GC6. Talk to 10th Warrior (mugwump on SCCAForums) because he has (had?) my old 20mm front bar. Also get some solid front endlinks.
Andy H.[/QUOTE]
Thanks Andy, I'm guessing a revalve like that on OTS Koni's would be well over $1k.
And I have a 22mm bar right now. I just need another one.
I think the stock endlinks are pretty beefy as it is. I might look into solid versions if and when I find a bigger bar.
Body roll: increase damping all around.
Both of these need to happen at stupid damping rates which will kill you over the bumps. So, you want a double digressive build (digressive on both compression and rebound) and you want the digressive break to happen at about 1 inch per second.
Damping rates: You need lots of rear roll stiffness in general, so try 250 pounds at 1 inch per second compression and 300 pounds at one inch per second rebound. At the front end, I'd probably use similar rebound rates, but softer on compression. Go adjustable and have the adjustment give you a wide range to work with.
Sway bars... I know they make 20 and 22mm non-adjustable front bars that fit the GC6. Talk to 10th Warrior (mugwump on SCCAForums) because he has (had?) my old 20mm front bar. Also get some solid front endlinks.
Andy H.[/QUOTE]
Thanks Andy, I'm guessing a revalve like that on OTS Koni's would be well over $1k.
And I have a 22mm bar right now. I just need another one.
I think the stock endlinks are pretty beefy as it is. I might look into solid versions if and when I find a bigger bar.
| Fred | 04-06-2005 10:25 AM |
You definitely need to replace the stock endlinks. I tried them out (brief test drive) with a 25mm Addco front bar, and they kept popping at the slightest turn. I was afraid they were going to break before I could get back home. :lol:
I've put the basic whiteline links (~ $100 for the pair) through lots of track days, autoxes & rallyxes & they're still doing great.
I've put the basic whiteline links (~ $100 for the pair) through lots of track days, autoxes & rallyxes & they're still doing great.
| ratt_finkel | 04-06-2005 04:09 PM |
[QUOTE=Fred]You definitely need to replace the stock endlinks. I tried them out (brief test drive) with a 25mm Addco front bar, and they kept popping at the slightest turn. I was afraid they were going to break before I could get back home. :lol:
I've put the basic whiteline links (~ $100 for the pair) through lots of track days, autoxes & rallyxes & they're still doing great.[/QUOTE]
Where and how much did you pay for the 25mm bar?
I've put the basic whiteline links (~ $100 for the pair) through lots of track days, autoxes & rallyxes & they're still doing great.[/QUOTE]
Where and how much did you pay for the 25mm bar?
| 10th Warrior | 04-06-2005 04:17 PM |
25mm??? seriously?? on a Stock-legal GM6??? i find it hard to believe. i don't know of anything larger then a 22mm, and even if it existed, i sure as hell wouldn't want to try to install it :)
and make some solid endlinks. worth their weight in gold, i tell yee!
ps-Andy, your bar is still on my car, though i ran a 22mm at Nats last year.
and make some solid endlinks. worth their weight in gold, i tell yee!
ps-Andy, your bar is still on my car, though i ran a 22mm at Nats last year.
| Fred | 04-07-2005 08:11 AM |
the 25 was bought used from somebody; I sold to somebody else, who has since sold it to somebody else (see a pattern here?). :lol:
It was on an STS GC6 (the blue one), and it also had KYB AGXes, stock springs, a 24mm rear bar, and endlinks, along with 215/45/16 Azeni on stock wheels. I FTPAXed my first THSCC event with that setup. FTPAXed the next event after that one after just changing to V5/RA springs.
It transitioned UNBELIEVABLY, but if there was a sweeper of any decent size, I was on/off the gas a lot to keep it rotating. I ended up going with stiffer springs & a 22mm front bar, leaving the rear @24. Worked really well for concrete, and I'd just change the rear to 22 for asphalt to keep the rear bumper behind the front one.
Oh, I weighed the bar & it was 12 lbs. I think the stock one is around 5 lbs. :eek:
edit: forgot to mention, on a stock-legal RS, you won't get anything bigger than a 25 in there & still be able to have bushings. :lol: (they were WAF-FEAR theen with the 25)
It was on an STS GC6 (the blue one), and it also had KYB AGXes, stock springs, a 24mm rear bar, and endlinks, along with 215/45/16 Azeni on stock wheels. I FTPAXed my first THSCC event with that setup. FTPAXed the next event after that one after just changing to V5/RA springs.
It transitioned UNBELIEVABLY, but if there was a sweeper of any decent size, I was on/off the gas a lot to keep it rotating. I ended up going with stiffer springs & a 22mm front bar, leaving the rear @24. Worked really well for concrete, and I'd just change the rear to 22 for asphalt to keep the rear bumper behind the front one.
Oh, I weighed the bar & it was 12 lbs. I think the stock one is around 5 lbs. :eek:
edit: forgot to mention, on a stock-legal RS, you won't get anything bigger than a 25 in there & still be able to have bushings. :lol: (they were WAF-FEAR theen with the 25)
| ratt_finkel | 04-07-2005 12:15 PM |
[QUOTE=Fred]the 25 was bought used from somebody; I sold to somebody else, who has since sold it to somebody else (see a pattern here?). :lol:
It [/QUOTE]
So who initially made it? Or purchased it? And where is it now?
EDIT: Andy, can those specs be performed on Koni Sports? Or am I going to have to go with another company, liek Advance design, or Bilstein, or Penske's? Estimated price for a revalve like that?
It [/QUOTE]
So who initially made it? Or purchased it? And where is it now?
EDIT: Andy, can those specs be performed on Koni Sports? Or am I going to have to go with another company, liek Advance design, or Bilstein, or Penske's? Estimated price for a revalve like that?
| ratt_finkel | 04-07-2005 06:38 PM |
What about V7/V8 STI struts? Worth the time or money?
| Fred | 04-07-2005 06:52 PM |
I bought it from Templar, who is one of only 2 people I know of who were original owners of the 25mm Addco bar. pleaides is the other - I think he still has his...
If you REALLY, REALLY want to know where the one I once owned is, I can look into it for you.
If you REALLY, REALLY want to know where the one I once owned is, I can look into it for you.
| ratt_finkel | 04-07-2005 07:53 PM |
[QUOTE=Fred]I bought it from Templar, who is one of only 2 people I know of who were original owners of the 25mm Addco bar. pleaides is the other - I think he still has his...
If you REALLY, REALLY want to know where the one I once owned is, I can look into it for you.[/QUOTE]
I would very much appreciate it.
If you REALLY, REALLY want to know where the one I once owned is, I can look into it for you.[/QUOTE]
I would very much appreciate it.
| adhowe70 | 04-07-2005 09:01 PM |
I'm pretty sure you can get the Advance Design or Bilsteins made that way. I *know* Penske's can be built that way. The cat's meow on the Impreza would be Penske 8760's all around... then you have all four real adjustments to work with. My 8100's have a compression adjustment that's pretty useless.
I *believe* the Koni Yellows could be built that way, but I don't know how effective the rebound adjustment would be. I'm also not sure how durable they would be with the super stiff valving in them. I dont' know much about Koni guts. I believe the yellows are single adjustable... Without compression adjustment, invest in spare kidneys. It'll be super harsh on the street.
Another thing to remember... my values are not a cure all... just a wild ass guess that should get you in the ballpark. A proper build is an iterative process and costs (literally) thousands of dollars spent a few hundred at a time.
If anyone is interested, I can start building solid front endlinks again. The set Jeff has were built by me... and I need to build another set. So, let me know. Its just as easy for me to buy parts for 2 or 3 sets as it is to buy parts for one set.
I *believe* the Koni Yellows could be built that way, but I don't know how effective the rebound adjustment would be. I'm also not sure how durable they would be with the super stiff valving in them. I dont' know much about Koni guts. I believe the yellows are single adjustable... Without compression adjustment, invest in spare kidneys. It'll be super harsh on the street.
Another thing to remember... my values are not a cure all... just a wild ass guess that should get you in the ballpark. A proper build is an iterative process and costs (literally) thousands of dollars spent a few hundred at a time.
If anyone is interested, I can start building solid front endlinks again. The set Jeff has were built by me... and I need to build another set. So, let me know. Its just as easy for me to buy parts for 2 or 3 sets as it is to buy parts for one set.
| ChrisDP | 04-07-2005 10:53 PM |
Since I just told fullup1 on sunday AFTER the event how to adjust his rear toe for autox events... i'm pretty sure he doesn't have anything really crazy going on there. :)
| fullup1 | 04-08-2005 01:03 AM |
Can't say I've messed with the toe out, although both ChrisDP and Fred have told me that setting it all the way out in the rear will help the car immensely. This is pretty much what I'm dealing with right now:
-Konis Front set at full soft
-KYB AGX Rear set at full stiff
-22mm IPD bar
-Stock Endlinks
-Stock Brackets and Bushings
-16x7 Kazera KZ-U's (light and sport performance....inside joke)
-225/50R16 Kumho V710s
- -1.2 deg right front (as far as it would go)
- -1.6 deg left front (also as far as it would go)
-Neutral toe front and rear
-SPT catback with the muffler cut out and replaced with a straightpipe
-K&N drop-in filter
-Schroth Rallye 4 Harness
-Stock Subaru brake pads
-250 shot NOS
I used to run some 245/45R16 Kumho VictoRacers (a used set) and I would run the pressures at 45F/35R. More recently I had a set of 225/50R16 Yokohama A032Rs that I would run the pressures at 44F/32R. Currently I have a new set of V710s that I'm working on figuring out tire pressures for, but at the CCR event I ran 4 runs with 48F/60R and my last run with 48F/35R and I didn't notice any difference.
In my experience the lower pressure in the back has always given the car just a little more snap, whatever that means.
-Konis Front set at full soft
-KYB AGX Rear set at full stiff
-22mm IPD bar
-Stock Endlinks
-Stock Brackets and Bushings
-16x7 Kazera KZ-U's (light and sport performance....inside joke)
-225/50R16 Kumho V710s
- -1.2 deg right front (as far as it would go)
- -1.6 deg left front (also as far as it would go)
-Neutral toe front and rear
-SPT catback with the muffler cut out and replaced with a straightpipe
-K&N drop-in filter
-Schroth Rallye 4 Harness
-Stock Subaru brake pads
-250 shot NOS
I used to run some 245/45R16 Kumho VictoRacers (a used set) and I would run the pressures at 45F/35R. More recently I had a set of 225/50R16 Yokohama A032Rs that I would run the pressures at 44F/32R. Currently I have a new set of V710s that I'm working on figuring out tire pressures for, but at the CCR event I ran 4 runs with 48F/60R and my last run with 48F/35R and I didn't notice any difference.
In my experience the lower pressure in the back has always given the car just a little more snap, whatever that means.
| ratt_finkel | 04-08-2005 11:44 AM |
[QUOTE=fullup1]
I used to run some 245/45R16 Kumho VictoRacers (a used set) and I would run the pressures at 45F/35R. More recently I had a set of 225/50R16 Yokohama A032Rs that I would run the pressures at 44F/32R. Currently I have a new set of V710s that I'm working on figuring out tire pressures for, but at the CCR event I ran 4 runs with 48F/60R and my last run with 48F/35R and I didn't notice any difference.
In my experience the lower pressure in the back has always given the car just a little more snap, whatever that means.[/QUOTE]
Hey, thanks for responding. At Houston, only my 3rd event on R-compounds and the 710's period. I ran much lower presures. I ran 35 front, 35 rear. Though I'm going to try running 40 in the rear next time. As the car didn't rotate quite as nicely as I wanted. But it still felt very good.
That was the 2nd day. On the 1st we started at 35 all around, and by the last runs it was up to 42 all around. The car didn't feel any better at the higher pressures.
It's going to be a couple more weeks before I get to try them out on grippy concrete. But I imagine a few more psi will be needed.
How do you like the current strut setup versus stock?
How did you arrive at those settings?
Andy, solid endlinks would be huge. What type of price are we talking? PM me an answer.
I used to run some 245/45R16 Kumho VictoRacers (a used set) and I would run the pressures at 45F/35R. More recently I had a set of 225/50R16 Yokohama A032Rs that I would run the pressures at 44F/32R. Currently I have a new set of V710s that I'm working on figuring out tire pressures for, but at the CCR event I ran 4 runs with 48F/60R and my last run with 48F/35R and I didn't notice any difference.
In my experience the lower pressure in the back has always given the car just a little more snap, whatever that means.[/QUOTE]
Hey, thanks for responding. At Houston, only my 3rd event on R-compounds and the 710's period. I ran much lower presures. I ran 35 front, 35 rear. Though I'm going to try running 40 in the rear next time. As the car didn't rotate quite as nicely as I wanted. But it still felt very good.
That was the 2nd day. On the 1st we started at 35 all around, and by the last runs it was up to 42 all around. The car didn't feel any better at the higher pressures.
It's going to be a couple more weeks before I get to try them out on grippy concrete. But I imagine a few more psi will be needed.
How do you like the current strut setup versus stock?
How did you arrive at those settings?
Andy, solid endlinks would be huge. What type of price are we talking? PM me an answer.
| fullup1 | 04-08-2005 01:13 PM |
Yeah, I've gotten used to the car pushing all over the place, but through the sweepers a little let off and then blip of the throttle will typically get the car positioned better, at least for me.
For the tire pressures, in the front I run whatever pressure indicates no roll over onto the sidewall, which seems to be around 48 psi for the V710s. For the rears I typically do something similar, so that's why my other setups have been 32~35 psi. Everyone I've talked to has said that I should run really high pressures in the rear, but the time I've felt most comfortable with the car is when I drop the pressure in the rear....maybe I've just never jacked the pressure up in the rear tires enough. I haven't come to any particular rear tire pressure for the V710s yet, but I anticipate dropping the pressure some more from the 35 psi I was experimenting with last weekend.
For the shock setup, I'd say the difference is extremely noticeable. In fact, the KYBs made the back end of the car quite a bit stiffer than I had expected. As for the setup with soft front/stiff rear, I've had the shocks on for a few events now (since January, but a few of the events I went to were snow/rain/slush), and I've always left the rear at full stiff and then just messed around with the front setting. At a recent Blue Ridge Region event we put 69 runs on the A032Rs I had, and with my experience and my codrivers' feedback I ended up dialing the front shocks all the way down. The car just felt like it didn't push as much when the setting was at full soft.
I've only had this car since mid-August, but I've already put on 19K miles, about 16K of those on the stock struts, and this setup feels MUCH better than the OEM setup. I can't say I really feel much of an impact from the front bar, but I only had an event or two between installing the shocks and then installing the bar, so it's possible that I just lumped the cumulative effect together.
As for a little disclaimer, this is what I have found to be most comfortable with my driving style, and I'm not advocating this as the BEST setup, it just seems to work well for me.
Here's a video of my car at a Lynchburg, VA Blue Ridge Region event (last time running A032Rs):
[url]http://filebox.vt.edu/users/pgillett/Philip%20-%203.wmv[/url]
Here's a video of my car at the CCR event last weekend (only event running V710s):
[url]http://filebox.vt.edu/users/pgillett/Philip%20-%205.wmv[/url]
For the tire pressures, in the front I run whatever pressure indicates no roll over onto the sidewall, which seems to be around 48 psi for the V710s. For the rears I typically do something similar, so that's why my other setups have been 32~35 psi. Everyone I've talked to has said that I should run really high pressures in the rear, but the time I've felt most comfortable with the car is when I drop the pressure in the rear....maybe I've just never jacked the pressure up in the rear tires enough. I haven't come to any particular rear tire pressure for the V710s yet, but I anticipate dropping the pressure some more from the 35 psi I was experimenting with last weekend.
For the shock setup, I'd say the difference is extremely noticeable. In fact, the KYBs made the back end of the car quite a bit stiffer than I had expected. As for the setup with soft front/stiff rear, I've had the shocks on for a few events now (since January, but a few of the events I went to were snow/rain/slush), and I've always left the rear at full stiff and then just messed around with the front setting. At a recent Blue Ridge Region event we put 69 runs on the A032Rs I had, and with my experience and my codrivers' feedback I ended up dialing the front shocks all the way down. The car just felt like it didn't push as much when the setting was at full soft.
I've only had this car since mid-August, but I've already put on 19K miles, about 16K of those on the stock struts, and this setup feels MUCH better than the OEM setup. I can't say I really feel much of an impact from the front bar, but I only had an event or two between installing the shocks and then installing the bar, so it's possible that I just lumped the cumulative effect together.
As for a little disclaimer, this is what I have found to be most comfortable with my driving style, and I'm not advocating this as the BEST setup, it just seems to work well for me.
Here's a video of my car at a Lynchburg, VA Blue Ridge Region event (last time running A032Rs):
[url]http://filebox.vt.edu/users/pgillett/Philip%20-%203.wmv[/url]
Here's a video of my car at the CCR event last weekend (only event running V710s):
[url]http://filebox.vt.edu/users/pgillett/Philip%20-%205.wmv[/url]
| ratt_finkel | 04-08-2005 01:54 PM |
Wow, your car is SO much flater than mine. All last season I ran on Azenis and ran high pressures like you did. And worked my way around the understeer as well. The front bar made a huge difference to me. Being able to take a much tighter line, and hold onto it even powering out of a turn.
Seriously, try some lower pressures on the 710's. I think the rear pressures are way way too high. The Kumho rep I spoke to said to run them about 5-10 psi less than Vitcoracers. Which is how I arrived at the mid 35 region.
Well seeing how your car handled, I think I may do revalved koni's in the front, and the kyb's in the rear.
EDIT: What size spacers are you running? Are you rubbing anywhere?
I'd love to compete with you. Where is blacksburg?
I know this is a crappy pic, but you can see how much roll the car has. Of course, everyone know this already. This is from Houston.
[img]http://www.hondavision.com/photohosting/data/500/110front_wheel_pullsmall.jpg[/img]
Here is another while I was scrubbing in the tires.
[img]http://www.hondavision.com/photohosting/data/500/110710rearlean.jpg[/img]
Seriously, try some lower pressures on the 710's. I think the rear pressures are way way too high. The Kumho rep I spoke to said to run them about 5-10 psi less than Vitcoracers. Which is how I arrived at the mid 35 region.
Well seeing how your car handled, I think I may do revalved koni's in the front, and the kyb's in the rear.
EDIT: What size spacers are you running? Are you rubbing anywhere?
I'd love to compete with you. Where is blacksburg?
I know this is a crappy pic, but you can see how much roll the car has. Of course, everyone know this already. This is from Houston.
[img]http://www.hondavision.com/photohosting/data/500/110front_wheel_pullsmall.jpg[/img]
Here is another while I was scrubbing in the tires.
[img]http://www.hondavision.com/photohosting/data/500/110710rearlean.jpg[/img]
| fullup1 | 04-08-2005 02:24 PM |
I'm not running spacers at all. I'm considering getting some 1/4" spacers for the front, but there's really no funding for much right now.
I've had rubbing all over:
-rear wheel well lip --> those rubber pieces were gone after 2 events or so
-front wheel well lip --> the wheel well liner has been rubbed quite a bit....I'm pretty sure I've lost the plastic attaching pieces due to tires rubbing the liner
-front wheel well liners
The shocks have definitely alleviated a lot of the rubbing, but I do hear just a little bit every once in a while.
I'll be tweaking the pressures some more, but at least I have a decent starting point (at least I hope I do....we'll find out).
Blacksburg is where Virginia Tech is, it's about 2 hours NE of Bristol, TN. I'll be heading down to Atlanta for the ProSolo on the 16th-17th....my first one. After that I'm going to try to get to these events:
-Toledo, OH National Tour (June 11-12)
-Atlanta, GA SEDiv Divisional (June 18-19)
-Oscoda, MI ProSolo (June 25-26) --> this one is a maybe
-Nashville, TN SEDiv Divisional (July 30-31)
-Toledo, OH ProSolo (August 6-7)
I'll also try to make it to all of the Subaru Challenge events I can get to, so maybe I'll see you at one of those too. Then again, if I get owned by too many Mini's and Celica's I might not do as many National and Pro events as I have planned. I haven't run against too many high caliber Mini or Celica drivers yet, so next weekend should be the litmus test.
As for body roll, I've still got plenty, but it used to be worse....I feel your pain:
[img]http://filebox.vt.edu/users/pgillett/Divisional%20-%20Body%20roll.jpg[/img]
I've had rubbing all over:
-rear wheel well lip --> those rubber pieces were gone after 2 events or so
-front wheel well lip --> the wheel well liner has been rubbed quite a bit....I'm pretty sure I've lost the plastic attaching pieces due to tires rubbing the liner
-front wheel well liners
The shocks have definitely alleviated a lot of the rubbing, but I do hear just a little bit every once in a while.
I'll be tweaking the pressures some more, but at least I have a decent starting point (at least I hope I do....we'll find out).
Blacksburg is where Virginia Tech is, it's about 2 hours NE of Bristol, TN. I'll be heading down to Atlanta for the ProSolo on the 16th-17th....my first one. After that I'm going to try to get to these events:
-Toledo, OH National Tour (June 11-12)
-Atlanta, GA SEDiv Divisional (June 18-19)
-Oscoda, MI ProSolo (June 25-26) --> this one is a maybe
-Nashville, TN SEDiv Divisional (July 30-31)
-Toledo, OH ProSolo (August 6-7)
I'll also try to make it to all of the Subaru Challenge events I can get to, so maybe I'll see you at one of those too. Then again, if I get owned by too many Mini's and Celica's I might not do as many National and Pro events as I have planned. I haven't run against too many high caliber Mini or Celica drivers yet, so next weekend should be the litmus test.
As for body roll, I've still got plenty, but it used to be worse....I feel your pain:
[img]http://filebox.vt.edu/users/pgillett/Divisional%20-%20Body%20roll.jpg[/img]
| ratt_finkel | 04-08-2005 04:25 PM |
[QUOTE=fullup1]I've had rubbing all over:
-rear wheel well lip --> those rubber pieces were gone after 2 events or so
-front wheel well lip --> the wheel well liner has been rubbed quite a bit....I'm pretty sure I've lost the plastic attaching pieces due to tires rubbing the liner
-front wheel well liners
The shocks have definitely alleviated a lot of the rubbing, but I do hear just a little bit every once in a while.
I'll be tweaking the pressures some more, but at least I have a decent starting point (at least I hope I do....we'll find out).
-Nashville, TN SEDiv Divisional (July 30-31)
[/QUOTE]
I can't believe you're running without spacers. In the front I have no clearance issues. But in the rear, if I tired to run without a spacer it would rub all over the strut. Right now I'm getting some rubbing on the spring perch, but it's minimal.
By the way, I picked up my wheels spacers for $10 from a ghetto wheel shop.
I might be able to make it to the above event. All the others are way too far. And as far as I'm aware, there aren't any subaru challenges this year. :(
-rear wheel well lip --> those rubber pieces were gone after 2 events or so
-front wheel well lip --> the wheel well liner has been rubbed quite a bit....I'm pretty sure I've lost the plastic attaching pieces due to tires rubbing the liner
-front wheel well liners
The shocks have definitely alleviated a lot of the rubbing, but I do hear just a little bit every once in a while.
I'll be tweaking the pressures some more, but at least I have a decent starting point (at least I hope I do....we'll find out).
-Nashville, TN SEDiv Divisional (July 30-31)
[/QUOTE]
I can't believe you're running without spacers. In the front I have no clearance issues. But in the rear, if I tired to run without a spacer it would rub all over the strut. Right now I'm getting some rubbing on the spring perch, but it's minimal.
By the way, I picked up my wheels spacers for $10 from a ghetto wheel shop.
I might be able to make it to the above event. All the others are way too far. And as far as I'm aware, there aren't any subaru challenges this year. :(
| 10th Warrior | 04-08-2005 04:51 PM |
[quote]If anyone is interested, I can start building solid front endlinks again. The set Jeff has were built by me... and I need to build another set. So, let me know. Its just as easy for me to buy parts for 2 or 3 sets as it is to buy parts for one set[/quote]
they're nice. you all should buy them :D
they're nice. you all should buy them :D
| gpatmac | 04-08-2005 05:01 PM |
[QUOTE=ratt_finkel]I can't believe you're running without spacers. In the front I have no clearance issues. But in the rear, if I tired to run without a spacer it would rub all over the strut. Right now I'm getting some rubbing on the spring perch, but it's minimal.
By the way, I picked up my wheels spacers for $10 from a ghetto wheel shop.
I might be able to make it to the above event. All the others are way too far. And as far as I'm aware, there aren't any subaru challenges this year. :([/QUOTE]
[img]http://gpatmac.us/New_RS/4APR/4APR_AutoX_RS5.jpg[/img]
225/45/17 on stock suspension. 45 offset.;) No rub.
By the way, I picked up my wheels spacers for $10 from a ghetto wheel shop.
I might be able to make it to the above event. All the others are way too far. And as far as I'm aware, there aren't any subaru challenges this year. :([/QUOTE]
[img]http://gpatmac.us/New_RS/4APR/4APR_AutoX_RS5.jpg[/img]
225/45/17 on stock suspension. 45 offset.;) No rub.
| ratt_finkel | 04-08-2005 05:18 PM |
[QUOTE=gpatmac][img]massive subaru body roll[/img]
225/45/17 on stock suspension. 45 offset.;) No rub.[/QUOTE]
Are your 225's over 9 inches wide?
225/45/17 on stock suspension. 45 offset.;) No rub.[/QUOTE]
Are your 225's over 9 inches wide?
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