| fliz | 02-16-2006 04:10 PM |
[QUOTE=z3coupe]WUSS! :devil: Back when I lived in Chicago, we would go up to Lake Geneva and race on the frozen lakes. So there is no excuse for not doing something with your car. Heck, at the slower speeds on slippery ice or snow, you can use that to your advantage to learn better car control at those slower (and much safer) speeds. It will help a lot with learning extremely smooth and fine adjustments, as anything done will be greatly exagerated on those surfaces - not to mention a ball of fun! Eons ago, I used to be able to drive my 72 Triumph Spitfire through the driver's door window - going sideways for blocks on end, under full control. Guess that might be what I am missing these days as my driving sucks here in sunny Kalifornia these days :([/QUOTE]
The problem is none of the lakes are frozen. It's all open water.
I went to the one ice race that was held this year up in Eagle River. Everything else has been cancelled. :(
The problem is none of the lakes are frozen. It's all open water.
I went to the one ice race that was held this year up in Eagle River. Everything else has been cancelled. :(
| z3coupe | 02-16-2006 04:21 PM |
[QUOTE]The problem is none of the lakes are frozen. It's all open water.[/QUOTE]Still no excuse :devil: Where there is a will, there is a way. Instead of AWD, you could get one of these and have All Water Drive :devil: [IMG]http://www.geocities.com/amphicars/michelf.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://www.amphicar.com/images/vintage_amphicar_in_water.jpg[/IMG]
| fliz | 02-16-2006 05:00 PM |
:lol:
NICE!
Might get a little cold, but I've got a wetsuit.
NICE!
Might get a little cold, but I've got a wetsuit.
| sstrano | 02-16-2006 06:04 PM |
[QUOTE=fliz]The problem is none of the lakes are frozen. It's all open water.
[/QUOTE]
Scary....
[/QUOTE]
Scary....
| sstrano | 02-16-2006 06:22 PM |
BTW.... Have we resolved the "possible issue" with the rubbing of my bar? If so, can get maybe get the title of this thread changed to "no issue" or "issue resolved"????? I still haven't gotten a phone call from one person about this. And I think the subject line is a bit harsh considering, and cetainly would give pause to anyone who is unaware of the discussions and happenings.
Maybe a thread about how well it works? :)
Maybe a thread about how well it works? :)
| AndrewSS | 02-16-2006 07:43 PM |
^ I know what you are saying there... but there is a risk with people buying this bar, not everyone got rubbing issues, but some did - including me, I am not bitter and I definetly like my bar (even better than the former whiteline...) but I dunno how the rubbing ever got resolved... doesnt the fact remain that some will or have had rubbing issues...
Bottom line, people that dont want to have to consider a problem shouldnt get this bar, with this bar you should assume you could have some noises or rubbing, but if it happens to you be prepared to finese a little.
I am not trying to provoke anything, just saying (btw, I like my strano, the troubles were worth it)
Bottom line, people that dont want to have to consider a problem shouldnt get this bar, with this bar you should assume you could have some noises or rubbing, but if it happens to you be prepared to finese a little.
I am not trying to provoke anything, just saying (btw, I like my strano, the troubles were worth it)
| crystalhelix | 02-16-2006 08:49 PM |
[QUOTE=sstrano]BTW.... Have we resolved the "possible issue" with the rubbing of my bar? If so, can get maybe get the title of this thread changed to "no issue" or "issue resolved"????? I still haven't gotten a phone call from one person about this. And I think the subject line is a bit harsh considering, and cetainly would give pause to anyone who is unaware of the discussions and happenings.
Maybe a thread about how well it works? :)[/QUOTE]
I'll be calling you soon, but not to complain, to order parts, lol.
Justin
Maybe a thread about how well it works? :)[/QUOTE]
I'll be calling you soon, but not to complain, to order parts, lol.
Justin
| crystalhelix | 02-16-2006 08:50 PM |
[QUOTE=AndrewSS]
Bottom line, people that dont want to have to consider a problem shouldnt get this bar, with this bar you should assume you could have some noises or rubbing, but if it happens to you be prepared to finese a little.
I am not trying to provoke anything, just saying (btw, I like my strano, the troubles were worth it)[/QUOTE]
Funny, that's exactly what the disclaimer in the instructions says, lol.
sorry for the double.
J
Bottom line, people that dont want to have to consider a problem shouldnt get this bar, with this bar you should assume you could have some noises or rubbing, but if it happens to you be prepared to finese a little.
I am not trying to provoke anything, just saying (btw, I like my strano, the troubles were worth it)[/QUOTE]
Funny, that's exactly what the disclaimer in the instructions says, lol.
sorry for the double.
J
| AndrewSS | 02-17-2006 12:54 AM |
exactly? In away, it says "this bar was not designed as an original equipment replacement bar...... but does not install like the factory bar...."
yes that is a disclaimer, but since there is a fairly common issue with it, I think its reasonable enough to atleast mention it specifically, so people can be educated on the matter... however its not that big of a deal anyway, hopefully nobody will really care, because the people getting this bar shouldnt think it much of an issue.
yes that is a disclaimer, but since there is a fairly common issue with it, I think its reasonable enough to atleast mention it specifically, so people can be educated on the matter... however its not that big of a deal anyway, hopefully nobody will really care, because the people getting this bar shouldnt think it much of an issue.
| z3coupe | 02-17-2006 03:54 AM |
Sam, the title of this post is NOT that harsh. It says "POSSIBLE" rubbing problems, and that is true. It does not say "do not buy this bar under any circumstances". And it does not say "this bar is junk, it don't work, go buy the Whiteline instead". As a matter of fact, I never even mentioned the WL bar, you guys did. And as there is no "manufacturerer's fix" as of yet, I can not honestly change the topic to "no issues anymore" either. The topic might even be of some help to others who buy the bar, and have this problem. And in this post, we also now have a better "GRASP" of how the bushings, brackets, and washers should be installed, as the blurry photo copy that came with the bar hardly explains anything.
As for the noises, I still have them, just learning to live with it for now. But the bolt is still rubbing, and it is the FLAT side of the bolt, not the pointed side. That is what Max will assist with at a later time. But I would like to suggest to you, to try and find a few other STi's near you to see the problem first hand, and perhaps you could come up with a slight change in design -might even be as simple as longer sloted holes in the clamps, and better instructions that might add "use a pry bar to push the bar away from the steering bolt before tightening the clamp's bolts. THEN I could honestly change to topic to PROBLEMS SOLVED.
Oh, and would be nice to add a small amount of what ever grease you prefer best to make the bar quieter - COBB sends grease with their bars. Just one of those nice little touches that could make someone go "KOOL" :devil:
As for the noises, I still have them, just learning to live with it for now. But the bolt is still rubbing, and it is the FLAT side of the bolt, not the pointed side. That is what Max will assist with at a later time. But I would like to suggest to you, to try and find a few other STi's near you to see the problem first hand, and perhaps you could come up with a slight change in design -might even be as simple as longer sloted holes in the clamps, and better instructions that might add "use a pry bar to push the bar away from the steering bolt before tightening the clamp's bolts. THEN I could honestly change to topic to PROBLEMS SOLVED.
Oh, and would be nice to add a small amount of what ever grease you prefer best to make the bar quieter - COBB sends grease with their bars. Just one of those nice little touches that could make someone go "KOOL" :devil:
| sstrano | 02-17-2006 01:47 PM |
If you were to stumble on this thread or any other in which the title was "possible problem", would you feel very good about the product? I doubt it.
Now, I understand that a few cars have had the bolt rub. But the vast majority of them do not have the issue at all. I just want to title to reflect that most cars do not rub at all. And even the ones that do, the folks who have the bar are quite pleased with the results. I don't think that's too much to ask. Do you?
As for grease. Clearly folks have their preferences. Plus most folks ordering such an item have an appropriate lube already. I don't see a need to supply it.
I support my product. Which is why I joined here in the first place. Yet, it seems that's not good enough. I'm wondering what is. I'm just asking for a little consideration. Put yourself in my shoes..... The title implies there are bigger issues, and then there are continual complaints, such as no grease, blurry pictures and so on. I look at it, and I think many other do as well in the other respect. I'm not going to have Addco retool a bar for a small minority of cars, especially when the bar fit the 2005 test car. And that we took the time and effort to supply such a part in the first place.
In short, there aren't going to be any forthcoming changes.
Now, I understand that a few cars have had the bolt rub. But the vast majority of them do not have the issue at all. I just want to title to reflect that most cars do not rub at all. And even the ones that do, the folks who have the bar are quite pleased with the results. I don't think that's too much to ask. Do you?
As for grease. Clearly folks have their preferences. Plus most folks ordering such an item have an appropriate lube already. I don't see a need to supply it.
I support my product. Which is why I joined here in the first place. Yet, it seems that's not good enough. I'm wondering what is. I'm just asking for a little consideration. Put yourself in my shoes..... The title implies there are bigger issues, and then there are continual complaints, such as no grease, blurry pictures and so on. I look at it, and I think many other do as well in the other respect. I'm not going to have Addco retool a bar for a small minority of cars, especially when the bar fit the 2005 test car. And that we took the time and effort to supply such a part in the first place.
In short, there aren't going to be any forthcoming changes.
| D_REX | 02-17-2006 01:50 PM |
[QUOTE=sstrano]In short, there aren't going to be any forthcoming changes.[/QUOTE]
I'm pretty sure that's what the thread started told you about the thread title too :lol:
I'm pretty sure that's what the thread started told you about the thread title too :lol:
| D_REX | 02-17-2006 01:52 PM |
Seriously though, you don't think that this is something that people installing your bar should be aware of? The fact that people are willing to work around it is great, and I would do the same without thinking twice, but if they aren't aware of the possibility they might do real damage to the bar before realizing it.
| sstrano | 02-17-2006 01:52 PM |
[QUOTE=AndrewSS]exactly? In away, it says "this bar was not designed as an original equipment replacement bar...... but does not install like the factory bar...."
yes that is a disclaimer, but since there is a fairly common issue with it, I think its reasonable enough to atleast mention it specifically, so people can be educated on the matter... however its not that big of a deal anyway, hopefully nobody will really care, because the people getting this bar shouldnt think it much of an issue.[/QUOTE]
Mention it... by all means. But the title of the thread implies a bigger problem than really exists. I've still not had a phone call from one person, NOT ONE about this. So I have to assume the "issue" is really not much of an issue at all! It's "tag lines" that can kill products. The Corvair died because it was "Unsafe at any Speed", even though it really wasn't. And FWIW, not much different than a period 911 or VW.... But the implication was there and the car was killed because of it. This isn't on the same scale, but is following the same pattern. I'm simply asking for a little consideration, especially when I've never claimed it to fit as OEM, and there is a disclaimer.
Is that understandable? I hope.
How about a title more along the lines of: Information regarding Strano FSB....
This is a classic case of how a very few can ruin a good thing. I'm now hesitating a bit on doing a wagon bar because of this. Frankly, this thread alone has hurt the amount of bars I've sold. And that will cause me to not do other part in the future, even though the majority of folks love them.
yes that is a disclaimer, but since there is a fairly common issue with it, I think its reasonable enough to atleast mention it specifically, so people can be educated on the matter... however its not that big of a deal anyway, hopefully nobody will really care, because the people getting this bar shouldnt think it much of an issue.[/QUOTE]
Mention it... by all means. But the title of the thread implies a bigger problem than really exists. I've still not had a phone call from one person, NOT ONE about this. So I have to assume the "issue" is really not much of an issue at all! It's "tag lines" that can kill products. The Corvair died because it was "Unsafe at any Speed", even though it really wasn't. And FWIW, not much different than a period 911 or VW.... But the implication was there and the car was killed because of it. This isn't on the same scale, but is following the same pattern. I'm simply asking for a little consideration, especially when I've never claimed it to fit as OEM, and there is a disclaimer.
Is that understandable? I hope.
How about a title more along the lines of: Information regarding Strano FSB....
This is a classic case of how a very few can ruin a good thing. I'm now hesitating a bit on doing a wagon bar because of this. Frankly, this thread alone has hurt the amount of bars I've sold. And that will cause me to not do other part in the future, even though the majority of folks love them.
| Draken | 02-17-2006 01:57 PM |
Nice refference to Ralph Nadar! hahaha.
BTW: when can i expect my kickback for helping too publiciize your bar so much? I have another "moped' that needs restoring.
Chris H.
BTW: when can i expect my kickback for helping too publiciize your bar so much? I have another "moped' that needs restoring.
Chris H.
| VpointVick | 02-17-2006 01:57 PM |
I've been a little surprised that you've been bumping this thread Sam. I'd thought that it was about dead a couple of times now.
Stop posting and I bet that it will dry up and go away.
Stop posting and I bet that it will dry up and go away.
| Sideshowbob | 02-17-2006 02:00 PM |
[QUOTE=D_REX]I'm pretty sure that's what the thread started told you about the thread title too :lol:[/QUOTE]
^ :lol: ^
^ :lol: ^
| sstrano | 02-17-2006 02:01 PM |
I'm not trying to hide anything. I *WANT* people to be aware of what they are getting. I also want them to be aware that the vast majority of cases have no trouble at all. That's why I have responded (and thereby bumped it).
| VpointVick | 02-17-2006 02:21 PM |
In that case, the thread title really isn't all that bad, and I think that the majority of the people that have posted here represent your target market, and have said "that doesn't sound like that big a deal, but, if you have a problem, you should call Sam."
I don't currently own one of your bars, but this thread certainly hasn't scared me off. I still want one bad!
And to the folks that are having a problem with rubbing, CALL SAM IF IT'S A BIG DEAL TO YOU!
I don't currently own one of your bars, but this thread certainly hasn't scared me off. I still want one bad!
And to the folks that are having a problem with rubbing, CALL SAM IF IT'S A BIG DEAL TO YOU!
| AndrewSS | 02-17-2006 03:35 PM |
[QUOTE=sstrano]Mention it... by all means. But the title of the thread implies a bigger problem than really exists. I've still not had a phone call from one person, NOT ONE about this. So I have to assume the "issue" is really not much of an issue at all! It's "tag lines" that can kill products. The Corvair died because it was "Unsafe at any Speed", even though it really wasn't. And FWIW, not much different than a period 911 or VW.... But the implication was there and the car was killed because of it. This isn't on the same scale, but is following the same pattern. I'm simply asking for a little consideration, especially when I've never claimed it to fit as OEM, and there is a disclaimer.
Is that understandable? I hope.
How about a title more along the lines of: Information regarding Strano FSB....
This is a classic case of how a very few can ruin a good thing. I'm now hesitating a bit on doing a wagon bar because of this. Frankly, this thread alone has hurt the amount of bars I've sold. And that will cause me to not do other part in the future, even though the majority of folks love them.[/QUOTE]
I see what you are saying... i dont know if this is ignorant or not, but isnt your target market basically here in motorsports forum... I mean people that are gonna consider an oversized bar like this probably arnt gonna let these possible problems stop them, whereas the average buyer will just want a little cobb/hotchkis bar... you see my point? I wonder how many people have been affected by this thread, overall this thread seems like a good thing... but I am not in your shoes. Whenever I am on IWSTI.com I recommned this bar to sway bar shoppers, but I do include the fact that you are gonna have to be willing to finese a little cause you could have some rubbing, I dont want to sound cliche or anything but this bar is for the "hardcore" anyway so these problems probably wont matter...
just my .02 :banana:
Is that understandable? I hope.
How about a title more along the lines of: Information regarding Strano FSB....
This is a classic case of how a very few can ruin a good thing. I'm now hesitating a bit on doing a wagon bar because of this. Frankly, this thread alone has hurt the amount of bars I've sold. And that will cause me to not do other part in the future, even though the majority of folks love them.[/QUOTE]
I see what you are saying... i dont know if this is ignorant or not, but isnt your target market basically here in motorsports forum... I mean people that are gonna consider an oversized bar like this probably arnt gonna let these possible problems stop them, whereas the average buyer will just want a little cobb/hotchkis bar... you see my point? I wonder how many people have been affected by this thread, overall this thread seems like a good thing... but I am not in your shoes. Whenever I am on IWSTI.com I recommned this bar to sway bar shoppers, but I do include the fact that you are gonna have to be willing to finese a little cause you could have some rubbing, I dont want to sound cliche or anything but this bar is for the "hardcore" anyway so these problems probably wont matter...
just my .02 :banana:
| z3coupe | 02-17-2006 05:21 PM |
So, just like a magazine that gets paid by advertising sales from BRAND X, and thus never mentions any problems with a so called "non-biased" review about BRAND X item, I should change the title as if there were no problems at all? Did I call your bar "unsafe at any speed, even sitting still"???? No Sam, I did not. Nor did I call this post "Strano vs Whiteline", but you sort of turned this into that as well.
So, what is the general consensus of how I should change the heading to?
Strano Bar Installation Q&A?
Strano vs Whiteline?
Safe at any speed?
Rubbing nuts can cause problems? :devil:
If there is someone more eloquent than me, please give me a suggestion for changing the topic to something more appropriate to satisfy Sam, yet still be a pointer to any who might have problems later on.
[QUOTE]I'm not going to have Addco retool a bar for a small minority of cars, especially when the bar [B]fit the 2005 test car[/B]. And that we took the time and effort to supply such a part in the first place.
In short, there aren't going to be any forthcoming changes.[/QUOTE]First off Sam, a single car does not alone represent all the same models. If you were just going to make if for that one driver, then that would have been the end of the story. But to open it up for retail sale, a bit more testing would have been in order. Do you honestly think that Whiteline (using them, as you seem to keep using their bar against yours) tested their parts on ONE car, then said OK, off to production? They would not be in business long if they did that (thought I think MRT does things like this, just look at their quality of parts LOL). I am no n00b to aftermarket parts. I had been in parts & service for 15 years with Toyota and a few others (BMW, Maserati, Nissan, etc), and sold many of their aftermarket parts, including racing parts - the early days of TRD, Mugen, HKS, Racing Beat, etc. . . . And I used to work for Arenco (their stores were known as European Parts Ind) and BAP GEON in the early days of sports cars and imports. Both of those were the EARLY PIONEERS of import car parts, with Arenco being the FIRST major distibutor (and mfgr) of aftermarket import parts. None of these would have survived as long as they did if they only tested it on one car.
As for no changes to the bar? I did not suggest changing the bar. I said why not elongate the holes in the CLAMPS that go over the bushings to the crossmember. Then you could easily adjust the bar's distance from the steering bolt by sliding the bar more rearward to gain clearance - and then just add that to the instructions. That would NOT be a major retool. But I would prefer it be done after testing by the mfgr, then try it on my own in case it might weaken it. You might have found that more metal would be needed before making the hole larger, considering the imense stress this larger bar causes.
So, what is the general consensus of how I should change the heading to?
Strano Bar Installation Q&A?
Strano vs Whiteline?
Safe at any speed?
Rubbing nuts can cause problems? :devil:
If there is someone more eloquent than me, please give me a suggestion for changing the topic to something more appropriate to satisfy Sam, yet still be a pointer to any who might have problems later on.
[QUOTE]I'm not going to have Addco retool a bar for a small minority of cars, especially when the bar [B]fit the 2005 test car[/B]. And that we took the time and effort to supply such a part in the first place.
In short, there aren't going to be any forthcoming changes.[/QUOTE]First off Sam, a single car does not alone represent all the same models. If you were just going to make if for that one driver, then that would have been the end of the story. But to open it up for retail sale, a bit more testing would have been in order. Do you honestly think that Whiteline (using them, as you seem to keep using their bar against yours) tested their parts on ONE car, then said OK, off to production? They would not be in business long if they did that (thought I think MRT does things like this, just look at their quality of parts LOL). I am no n00b to aftermarket parts. I had been in parts & service for 15 years with Toyota and a few others (BMW, Maserati, Nissan, etc), and sold many of their aftermarket parts, including racing parts - the early days of TRD, Mugen, HKS, Racing Beat, etc. . . . And I used to work for Arenco (their stores were known as European Parts Ind) and BAP GEON in the early days of sports cars and imports. Both of those were the EARLY PIONEERS of import car parts, with Arenco being the FIRST major distibutor (and mfgr) of aftermarket import parts. None of these would have survived as long as they did if they only tested it on one car.
As for no changes to the bar? I did not suggest changing the bar. I said why not elongate the holes in the CLAMPS that go over the bushings to the crossmember. Then you could easily adjust the bar's distance from the steering bolt by sliding the bar more rearward to gain clearance - and then just add that to the instructions. That would NOT be a major retool. But I would prefer it be done after testing by the mfgr, then try it on my own in case it might weaken it. You might have found that more metal would be needed before making the hole larger, considering the imense stress this larger bar causes.
| fliz | 02-17-2006 05:53 PM |
Leave the title. No sense in rewriting history.
Plus, this will make it easier for other 05 owners to search and find this thread when the Strano bar they have rubs. And it WILL happen to somebody else. It might only be 5% of the 05's that it doesn't fit...but more than one of those owners will be searching here to figure out how to get their bar to fit.
Sam - I'm not sure this thread cost you any sales. I bought the Strano in spite of this title & your attitude.
Plus, this will make it easier for other 05 owners to search and find this thread when the Strano bar they have rubs. And it WILL happen to somebody else. It might only be 5% of the 05's that it doesn't fit...but more than one of those owners will be searching here to figure out how to get their bar to fit.
Sam - I'm not sure this thread cost you any sales. I bought the Strano in spite of this title & your attitude.
| silver arrow | 02-17-2006 10:18 PM |
[QUOTE=sstrano]Mention it... by all means. But the title of the thread implies a bigger problem than really exists. I've still not had a phone call from one person, NOT ONE about this. So I have to assume the "issue" is really not much of an issue at all! It's "tag lines" that can kill products. The Corvair died because it was "Unsafe at any Speed", even though it really wasn't. And FWIW, not much different than a period 911 or VW.... But the implication was there and the car was killed because of it. This isn't on the same scale, but is following the same pattern. I'm simply asking for a little consideration, especially when I've never claimed it to fit as OEM, and there is a disclaimer.
Is that understandable? I hope.
How about a title more along the lines of: Information regarding Strano FSB....
This is a classic case of how a very few can ruin a good thing. I'm now hesitating a bit on doing a wagon bar because of this. Frankly, this thread alone has hurt the amount of bars I've sold. And that will cause me to not do other part in the future, even though the majority of folks love them.[/QUOTE]
Mine doesn't rub and I really like it, but you installation instructions are very poor and don't give even a reasonable idea of how to properly mount the bar. It's a case of a good product with poor instructions causing you grief. You kind of caused it yourself.
Is that understandable? I hope.
How about a title more along the lines of: Information regarding Strano FSB....
This is a classic case of how a very few can ruin a good thing. I'm now hesitating a bit on doing a wagon bar because of this. Frankly, this thread alone has hurt the amount of bars I've sold. And that will cause me to not do other part in the future, even though the majority of folks love them.[/QUOTE]
Mine doesn't rub and I really like it, but you installation instructions are very poor and don't give even a reasonable idea of how to properly mount the bar. It's a case of a good product with poor instructions causing you grief. You kind of caused it yourself.
| bcblues | 02-19-2006 06:36 PM |
I will be putting my Strano FSB on my 04 STi as soon as weather permits (this spring). I just want to be sure I understand how to install the end links properly. Maybe Sam can confirm or deny if this is the correct way to assemble the bushing stack on the end links. The way I understand it is that each rubber bushing's flat end (the end without the rubber nub or nipple) mates with the cupped end of a gold washer. Note the orientation of the cupped washers:
[IMG]http://eteamz.active.com/dakota_sti/images/stranobarend.jpg[/IMG]
Exploded view:
[IMG]http://eteamz.active.com/dakota_sti/images/stranobarendexploded.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://eteamz.active.com/dakota_sti/images/stranobarend.jpg[/IMG]
Exploded view:
[IMG]http://eteamz.active.com/dakota_sti/images/stranobarendexploded.jpg[/IMG]
| fliz | 02-19-2006 07:19 PM |
The only change I would make is to flip the bolt so the threads don't get messed up by road debris.
| silver arrow | 02-19-2006 08:00 PM |
[QUOTE=bcblues]I will be putting my Strano FSB on my 04 STi as soon as weather permits (this spring). I just want to be sure I understand how to install the end links properly. Maybe Sam can confirm or deny if this is the correct way to assemble the bushing stack on the end links. The way I understand it is that each rubber bushing's flat end (the end without the rubber nub or nipple) mates with the cupped end of a gold washer. Note the orientation of the cupped washers:
[IMG]http://eteamz.active.com/dakota_sti/images/stranobarend.jpg[/IMG]
Exploded view:
[IMG]http://eteamz.active.com/dakota_sti/images/stranobarendexploded.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
The bracket should be vertical not horizontal like you have it.
[IMG]http://eteamz.active.com/dakota_sti/images/stranobarend.jpg[/IMG]
Exploded view:
[IMG]http://eteamz.active.com/dakota_sti/images/stranobarendexploded.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
The bracket should be vertical not horizontal like you have it.
| AndrewSS | 02-19-2006 11:33 PM |
^ huh? I though that was the correct way the endlink bracket was supposed to be oriented...
| AtomicRacer | 02-20-2006 01:46 AM |
[QUOTE=AndrewSS]^ huh? I though that was the correct way the endlink bracket was supposed to be oriented...[/QUOTE]
So did I.
-Paul
So did I.
-Paul
| VpointVick | 02-20-2006 06:25 AM |
Pretty sure that bracket is correct as shown.
| wm07 | 02-20-2006 08:27 AM |
That's how i did mine. with the long side horizontally.
| jamesohoh7 | 02-20-2006 08:43 AM |
[QUOTE=VpointVick]Pretty sure that bracket is correct as shown.[/QUOTE]
+1 .. the exploded view pic is sideways... it won't be assembled in that orientation on the car. The pic shows relative positions of the parts to each other, not 'final installed orientation'.
+1 .. the exploded view pic is sideways... it won't be assembled in that orientation on the car. The pic shows relative positions of the parts to each other, not 'final installed orientation'.
| sstrano | 02-20-2006 01:34 PM |
My attitude? Guys, I haven't said one thing out of the way, and I've been more than willing to discuss things with you. The fact you think my attitude is bad is amazing to me. So be it, you don't need to like me I guess.... I'll refrain from being so helpful. Clearly my willingness to come on here and lend a hand results in some ill-will. I can get ill-will by saying nothing and being helpful only to those willing to take the time to call me. But that is not the right thing to do--if that's a bad attitude, I'm guilty. :(
As for the directions. Bear in mind that I do NOT BUILD THE BAR. Addco does it for me, they were the ones whom put it all together, not me. I am trying to get them to clarify directions, but in the meantime I've ALREADY DONE IT here. See page 7, posts 160 and 164. And FWIW, they have the correct orientation of the brackets listed. The above is correct....
The world is not perfect, I'm doing my best.
As for the directions. Bear in mind that I do NOT BUILD THE BAR. Addco does it for me, they were the ones whom put it all together, not me. I am trying to get them to clarify directions, but in the meantime I've ALREADY DONE IT here. See page 7, posts 160 and 164. And FWIW, they have the correct orientation of the brackets listed. The above is correct....
The world is not perfect, I'm doing my best.
| omahasubaru | 02-20-2006 01:43 PM |
Sam you've gone above and beyond what any non-NASIOC vendor has done on this site. Usually this site only gets filled with speculation and no one ever finds out the true answer. I think you should just ignore the nay-sayers on here. It surely is a lion's den on here if anyone has ever had even one minor problem with someones product as they make a stink about it all over this place.
It's almost better to stay away from this site, but your willingness to answer people on here shows you are making an effort to resolve any issues with your product and frankly, everyone on here with your product should be grateful.
I for one have never purchased your products, but am glad to see you on here helping out customers. I am hoping to pick up your wagon based sway bar once it's available to try on my swapped car.
Just my $0.02
Take care and thanks again for your time, it is appreciated by many I'm sure.
It's almost better to stay away from this site, but your willingness to answer people on here shows you are making an effort to resolve any issues with your product and frankly, everyone on here with your product should be grateful.
I for one have never purchased your products, but am glad to see you on here helping out customers. I am hoping to pick up your wagon based sway bar once it's available to try on my swapped car.
Just my $0.02
Take care and thanks again for your time, it is appreciated by many I'm sure.
| bcblues | 02-20-2006 02:25 PM |
Thank you for the clarification, Sam. I thought that I had it right in my photos, based on several hours of pouring over this and other threads on the subject. Personally, I appreciate your customer service. I was pleasantly surprised to get a personal phone call from you after placing my order, and your willingness to offer advice and suggestions. I also think that you have done a great job on this forum explaining your role in the manufacture and distribution of the sway bar. Don't take it too personally if you get a naysayer or two out of a crowd this size. 273 posts so far and only a couple had beefs with you or your bar. You clearly can't please all the people all the time, and you will go crazy if you try.
Thanks again for your time and energy to set this matter straight. I will post up some new pics that have the exploded view oriented the correct direction. I think that that alone will help to aleviate what few customer complaints that there seem to be.
Finally, thanks for tuning into NASIOC to stand behind your (or ADDCO's) product. And thanks for not punting out of the forum when a couple members got a little testy towards you. I for one appreciate the level of service and commitment that you bring to the table.
Thanks again for your time and energy to set this matter straight. I will post up some new pics that have the exploded view oriented the correct direction. I think that that alone will help to aleviate what few customer complaints that there seem to be.
Finally, thanks for tuning into NASIOC to stand behind your (or ADDCO's) product. And thanks for not punting out of the forum when a couple members got a little testy towards you. I for one appreciate the level of service and commitment that you bring to the table.
| crystalhelix | 02-20-2006 03:08 PM |
I :heart: stranoparts too!
I wish my check would clear so I can order my clutch/flywheel/rotors..
I wish my check would clear so I can order my clutch/flywheel/rotors..
| awesome2.5rs | 02-20-2006 07:22 PM |
Thanks for clearing up the info on the bracket. My friend and I did an install on his car a while ago, and I became unsure if it was done correctly by what was said previously in this thread, but now I am at peace....lol :)
| -OneWay- | 02-25-2006 02:10 AM |
[QUOTE=Neek]My 32mm is waiting to go on as we speak. Can you go into details about exactly what you did here? I am not sure what you mean.[/QUOTE]
I didn't take a picture of that bracket when I posted the pictures of my install on the first page.
To show what I was talking about
I edited one someone posted of thier 04 that shows the bushing I am talking about that we put the pry bar against to pry the bar over a little bit as we tightened that bracket down on both sides.
If I remember right it is a frame bushing bracket.
[IMG]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/-oneway-/bracket3copy.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=makofoto]Anti Seize is what you should be using ... best for sway bar bushing lube[/QUOTE]
I don't know about "Anti Seize is what you should be using"
I would think your better off using something designed for what it is being used for.
Anti Seize isn't as tacky as the Formula 5 Grease I used (Formula 5 feels like wet silicone sealant) and anti seize isn't specifically developed for lubricating urethane bushings like formula 5, It's been years since I read the make up of an anti seize,
But the last time I checked they where mostly abrasive metal based products and the Non metal based products were corrosive to a lot of different metals and most metal platings.
It might work for quieting down the noise but in most cases Anti Seize isn't what you "should" be using on a part that is going to be seeing a lot of movement, it is anti seize not lubricant.
FWIW my bar is still as quiet as the day I did the reinstall.
after a few track days and a couple of autox events I can say I do like this bar and it does kick ass.
Oh since I seen this mentioned I am sure this bar as it is can be made to fit ANY 05 STi it might just take a little attention to detail
So,
IMHO there is no reason for a retool of the bar or change in the product besides the update to the instructions and they are welcome to use any of the pictures I posted of my install.
I didn't take a picture of that bracket when I posted the pictures of my install on the first page.
To show what I was talking about
I edited one someone posted of thier 04 that shows the bushing I am talking about that we put the pry bar against to pry the bar over a little bit as we tightened that bracket down on both sides.
If I remember right it is a frame bushing bracket.
[IMG]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/-oneway-/bracket3copy.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=makofoto]Anti Seize is what you should be using ... best for sway bar bushing lube[/QUOTE]
I don't know about "Anti Seize is what you should be using"
I would think your better off using something designed for what it is being used for.
Anti Seize isn't as tacky as the Formula 5 Grease I used (Formula 5 feels like wet silicone sealant) and anti seize isn't specifically developed for lubricating urethane bushings like formula 5, It's been years since I read the make up of an anti seize,
But the last time I checked they where mostly abrasive metal based products and the Non metal based products were corrosive to a lot of different metals and most metal platings.
It might work for quieting down the noise but in most cases Anti Seize isn't what you "should" be using on a part that is going to be seeing a lot of movement, it is anti seize not lubricant.
FWIW my bar is still as quiet as the day I did the reinstall.
after a few track days and a couple of autox events I can say I do like this bar and it does kick ass.
Oh since I seen this mentioned I am sure this bar as it is can be made to fit ANY 05 STi it might just take a little attention to detail
So,
IMHO there is no reason for a retool of the bar or change in the product besides the update to the instructions and they are welcome to use any of the pictures I posted of my install.
| Fierysun | 02-25-2006 11:40 PM |
There's an easy fix for the rubbing bolt problem. You can find a high grade steel Allen head with reduce height (head) bolt in many hardware stores. Just find the one with the right threads and length. Done deal. Think like a racer, and not a consumer.
If Strano feels kind, he can have that bolt included with the kit.
If Strano feels kind, he can have that bolt included with the kit.
| Calamity Jesus | 02-27-2006 10:55 AM |
For bushing lube, I'm testing out this stuff:
[img]http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images//img/ptx/24110.jpg[/img]
It's made to grease the guide pins in sliding calipers. Even after some heavy under-car washing (it's only been a few weeks since I bolted up my Addco bar) there is still some grease clinging to the bar around the bushings. An 8oz bottle like that is $10 at Advance Auto and comes with a brush built into the lid. If it starts squeaking before the season is over, I'll let you know. Oh.. it's also 'green' and supposedly environmentally friendly. ;)
[QUOTE=Fierysun]There's an easy fix for the rubbing bolt problem. You can find a high grade steel Allen head with reduce height (head) bolt in many hardware stores. Just find the one with the right threads and length. Done deal. Think like a racer, and not a consumer.
If Strano feels kind, he can have that bolt included with the kit.[/QUOTE]
As was already stated several times in this thread, modifying or swapping that bolt may not be kosher with the rules that people are buying the bar to race by. Thinking like a racer often means considering the rules.
[img]http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images//img/ptx/24110.jpg[/img]
It's made to grease the guide pins in sliding calipers. Even after some heavy under-car washing (it's only been a few weeks since I bolted up my Addco bar) there is still some grease clinging to the bar around the bushings. An 8oz bottle like that is $10 at Advance Auto and comes with a brush built into the lid. If it starts squeaking before the season is over, I'll let you know. Oh.. it's also 'green' and supposedly environmentally friendly. ;)
[QUOTE=Fierysun]There's an easy fix for the rubbing bolt problem. You can find a high grade steel Allen head with reduce height (head) bolt in many hardware stores. Just find the one with the right threads and length. Done deal. Think like a racer, and not a consumer.
If Strano feels kind, he can have that bolt included with the kit.[/QUOTE]
As was already stated several times in this thread, modifying or swapping that bolt may not be kosher with the rules that people are buying the bar to race by. Thinking like a racer often means considering the rules.
| sstrano | 03-04-2006 10:11 PM |
[QUOTE=awesome2.5rs]Thanks for clearing up the info on the bracket. My friend and I did an install on his car a while ago, and I became unsure if it was done correctly by what was said previously in this thread, but now I am at peace....lol :)[/QUOTE]
No problem...
No problem...
| sstrano | 03-04-2006 10:13 PM |
[QUOTE=Beaverboy]For bushing lube, I'm testing out this stuff:
[img]http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images//img/ptx/24110.jpg[/img]
It's made to grease the guide pins in sliding calipers. Even after some heavy under-car washing (it's only been a few weeks since I bolted up my Addco bar) there is still some grease clinging to the bar around the bushings. [/QUOTE]
That'll probably work very well. It's synthetic grease, so water should not bother it, which is why I tell folks something like synthetic wheel bearing grease works very well. :) YMMV, MHO, etc.
[img]http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images//img/ptx/24110.jpg[/img]
It's made to grease the guide pins in sliding calipers. Even after some heavy under-car washing (it's only been a few weeks since I bolted up my Addco bar) there is still some grease clinging to the bar around the bushings. [/QUOTE]
That'll probably work very well. It's synthetic grease, so water should not bother it, which is why I tell folks something like synthetic wheel bearing grease works very well. :) YMMV, MHO, etc.
| wm07 | 03-04-2006 10:19 PM |
You know what? I had synthetic grease on and it was still making noises. Now I have teflon tape with those grease, and no noise for a month now. Hopefully it will stay quiet.
| BlueSTI4Me | 03-11-2006 06:20 PM |
If it has not been posted (don't wish to re-read this entire thread again). I have an answer on the in-famous 2005 bolt interference issue.
I installed one of the first commercial versions of the 32mm bar last spring on a 2004 STi. I've done the equivalent of 4 installs the first of which on a 2005 STi this afternoon. Yes the steering gear bracket 15 mm bolt which appears to have been added on the 2005 model may contact the swaybar in the installed position. Versus changing the bolt to a button-head hex style bolt, I recommend this simple solution.
The 15mm bolt has a flat and lock washer, using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel carefully cut off of the bolt both the flat washer and lock washer. Apply Loc-tite to the threads of the bolt and re-install. You will now have at least 6mm clearance between the bar and the bolt.
Something I learned on this install, if the bar is loose in the bushing retainers and I load the suspension (this was a hoist install) installing the links is the easiest.
Cheers,
Blue
BTW, Sam the product is good as you well know. Install issues will arise as there is always build variation vehicle to vehicle from what I'm finding even the off-shore manufacturers are not exempt.
Lastly, my apologies for resurrecting this thread. :D
I installed one of the first commercial versions of the 32mm bar last spring on a 2004 STi. I've done the equivalent of 4 installs the first of which on a 2005 STi this afternoon. Yes the steering gear bracket 15 mm bolt which appears to have been added on the 2005 model may contact the swaybar in the installed position. Versus changing the bolt to a button-head hex style bolt, I recommend this simple solution.
The 15mm bolt has a flat and lock washer, using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel carefully cut off of the bolt both the flat washer and lock washer. Apply Loc-tite to the threads of the bolt and re-install. You will now have at least 6mm clearance between the bar and the bolt.
Something I learned on this install, if the bar is loose in the bushing retainers and I load the suspension (this was a hoist install) installing the links is the easiest.
Cheers,
Blue
BTW, Sam the product is good as you well know. Install issues will arise as there is always build variation vehicle to vehicle from what I'm finding even the off-shore manufacturers are not exempt.
Lastly, my apologies for resurrecting this thread. :D
| AtomicRacer | 03-13-2006 10:22 AM |
Well I installed the 32mm bar on Saturday and raced with it on Sunday. The installation was pretty reasonable, I had no fitment issues, it did not hit the steering bolt on my 2005. I did however remove a small amount of material from the inside of the passenger side mounting bracket although I don't think it was required.
The only hard part was assembly of the end links. I was not able to use all four metal washers as the stack height was too tall to get the nut started. So I removed one of the washers from the middle and it assembled fine. I believe this will have zero impact on function and wear of the end links.
For lubrication I wraped the bar with teflon tape and used the below previously mentioned lubricant. So far it is silent, zero noise at all.
[img]http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images//img/ptx/24110.jpg[/img]
My suggestion to anyone installing this bar is to install the endlinks and assemble them before you install the bar into the brackets. Made it much easier.
-Paul
The only hard part was assembly of the end links. I was not able to use all four metal washers as the stack height was too tall to get the nut started. So I removed one of the washers from the middle and it assembled fine. I believe this will have zero impact on function and wear of the end links.
For lubrication I wraped the bar with teflon tape and used the below previously mentioned lubricant. So far it is silent, zero noise at all.
[img]http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images//img/ptx/24110.jpg[/img]
My suggestion to anyone installing this bar is to install the endlinks and assemble them before you install the bar into the brackets. Made it much easier.
-Paul
| AtomicRacer | 03-13-2006 10:25 AM |
On a side not, Sam's 32mm bar is replacing the 27mm Whiteline bar I had set to full stiff. After racing with it yesterday on a very fast autox course I can say that it is staying in the car. The bar feels stiffer, looks like we are actually going to remove a small bit of camber bacause of it. The car also feels better in transitions, more linear feel at turn in, I think that might be related to the end link style.
Nice bar Sam, thanks.
-Paul
Nice bar Sam, thanks.
-Paul
| sstrano | 03-13-2006 01:43 PM |
Hey Paul... Glad you like the bar, it's what makes it all worth it. Also, my thanks for taking the time to post your findings about the stiffness of my bar vs the Whiteline 27.
That has been a hot topic of conversation, and to my knowledge you are the only one who'd actually run both (and the fact you had your old bar @ Full stiff is even better). :)
That has been a hot topic of conversation, and to my knowledge you are the only one who'd actually run both (and the fact you had your old bar @ Full stiff is even better). :)
| wrxkix | 03-13-2006 04:12 PM |
Just to update on the bar. I ran mine for the first event in a
DS prepped 06 WRX and it works great. 2nd in PAX with 115 cars. As for the squeeks, I went with teflon tape and no grease and no problems yet. Thanks Sam!
DS prepped 06 WRX and it works great. 2nd in PAX with 115 cars. As for the squeeks, I went with teflon tape and no grease and no problems yet. Thanks Sam!
| kursplat | 03-14-2006 01:12 AM |
[QUOTE=AtomicRacer]...The car also feels better in transitions, more linear feel at turn in, I think that might be related to the end link style.
Nice bar Sam, thanks.
-Paul[/QUOTE]
ordered mine friday :D :D and the end link comment cracked me up. after wrenching mopars for 25 years it's the subbie endlinks that look strange...
Nice bar Sam, thanks.
-Paul[/QUOTE]
ordered mine friday :D :D and the end link comment cracked me up. after wrenching mopars for 25 years it's the subbie endlinks that look strange...
| Fierysun | 03-14-2006 03:35 AM |
[QUOTE=Beaverboy]
As was already stated several times in this thread, modifying or swapping that bolt may not be kosher with the rules that people are buying the bar to race by. Thinking like a racer often means considering the rules.[/QUOTE]
If the rule lets you change the FSB, changing the bolt will be kosher. Think about it.
As was already stated several times in this thread, modifying or swapping that bolt may not be kosher with the rules that people are buying the bar to race by. Thinking like a racer often means considering the rules.[/QUOTE]
If the rule lets you change the FSB, changing the bolt will be kosher. Think about it.
| sstrano | 03-14-2006 12:00 PM |
To keep the thread on topic--I spoke with AtomicRacer yesterday....
He has an '05 STi, and the bolt that had rubbed for those few folks (and I *STILL* haven't heard from anyone else, and never on the phone) isn't even close on his car either. :)
I wonder how many cars it'll take NOT rubbing that bolt to outweigh the very few that did. BTW, the total number of bars sold now is just about 70. So the percentage of "good" vs. "possible rubbing" is just getting smaller and smaller making my hunch it's a Subaru production line variance and not a bar issue and more likely, and less and less theory. :)
He has an '05 STi, and the bolt that had rubbed for those few folks (and I *STILL* haven't heard from anyone else, and never on the phone) isn't even close on his car either. :)
I wonder how many cars it'll take NOT rubbing that bolt to outweigh the very few that did. BTW, the total number of bars sold now is just about 70. So the percentage of "good" vs. "possible rubbing" is just getting smaller and smaller making my hunch it's a Subaru production line variance and not a bar issue and more likely, and less and less theory. :)
| 10th Warrior | 03-14-2006 01:03 PM |
[quote]I wonder how many cars it'll take NOT rubbing that bolt to outweigh the very few that did.[/quote]
For those of us that know you, I'd say one :) Keep up the great work, Sam!
For those of us that know you, I'd say one :) Keep up the great work, Sam!
| kursplat | 03-17-2006 12:26 AM |
[QUOTE=sstrano]I wonder how many cars it'll take NOT rubbing that bolt to outweigh the very few that did. BTW, the total number of bars sold now is just about 70. So the percentage of "good" vs. "possible rubbing" is just getting smaller and smaller making my hunch it's a Subaru production line variance and not a bar issue and more likely, and less and less theory. :)[/QUOTE]
don't you realize that the slightest problem with an aftermarket (cough race) part by a small but vocal minority is grounds for declaring the product a P.O.S. ?
makes ya wonder why people still buy coilovers for the street :rolleyes:
don't you realize that the slightest problem with an aftermarket (cough race) part by a small but vocal minority is grounds for declaring the product a P.O.S. ?
makes ya wonder why people still buy coilovers for the street :rolleyes:
| IBAUCLAPlaya | 03-17-2006 01:42 AM |
Just thought I'd chime in. The Strano bar fits fine on my 04 WRX, non-STi. Had to work a bit to get the endlinks on, but it fits great and no rubbing problems w/ the steering rack bolt. Can't wait to get the coilovers on and test it out at an event.
| Calamity Jesus | 03-17-2006 09:49 AM |
[QUOTE=Fierysun]If the rule lets you change the FSB, changing the bolt will be kosher. Think about it.[/QUOTE]
If the rules allow you to change the swaybar and mounting hardware for the sole purpose of mounting the swaybar... such as the SCCA Solo rules.. there is no allowance for swapping bolts on the steering system for the swaybar. You can't just put an LS1 in the engine bay because it cleared your 50mm swaybar better than the EJ25.. the rules don't work like that.
If the rules allow you to change the swaybar and mounting hardware for the sole purpose of mounting the swaybar... such as the SCCA Solo rules.. there is no allowance for swapping bolts on the steering system for the swaybar. You can't just put an LS1 in the engine bay because it cleared your 50mm swaybar better than the EJ25.. the rules don't work like that.
| frostyTSM | 03-17-2006 12:29 PM |
[QUOTE=Beaverboy]If the rules allow you to change the swaybar and mounting hardware for the sole purpose of mounting the swaybar... such as the SCCA Solo rules.. there is no allowance for swapping bolts on the steering system for the swaybar. You can't just put an LS1 in the engine bay because it cleared your 50mm swaybar better than the EJ25.. the rules don't work like that.[/QUOTE]
Swapping a bolt that is functionally the same can't be compared with an engine swap. :huh:
If this bolt is different lengths on different STis of the same model year and configuration, then there is no reason you shouldn't be able to swap the bolt.
Edit: Removed incorrect rules detail on bolts (see next post).
Swapping a bolt that is functionally the same can't be compared with an engine swap. :huh:
If this bolt is different lengths on different STis of the same model year and configuration, then there is no reason you shouldn't be able to swap the bolt.
Edit: Removed incorrect rules detail on bolts (see next post).
| wm07 | 03-17-2006 01:54 PM |
In Solo Rules, 13, sixth paragraph says:
"Hardware items (nuts, bolts, etc.) may be replaced by similar items of unrestricted origin. Safety wire, threadlocker compounds, and locking nuts are permitted. These allowances are strictly to allow components to be replaced from alternate sources other than the original manufacturer. They should not be construed as allowance to replace omponents with those which could be considered a 'higher performance' alternative. Parts available as replacements through the dealers parts departments, the factory, or any other source which do not meet standard part specifications (e.g., hardness, size, etc.) are not legal in Stock Category, except as specifically provided elsewhere in these rules."
So, as long as the bolt is "similar", then it should be fine. :)
"Hardware items (nuts, bolts, etc.) may be replaced by similar items of unrestricted origin. Safety wire, threadlocker compounds, and locking nuts are permitted. These allowances are strictly to allow components to be replaced from alternate sources other than the original manufacturer. They should not be construed as allowance to replace omponents with those which could be considered a 'higher performance' alternative. Parts available as replacements through the dealers parts departments, the factory, or any other source which do not meet standard part specifications (e.g., hardness, size, etc.) are not legal in Stock Category, except as specifically provided elsewhere in these rules."
So, as long as the bolt is "similar", then it should be fine. :)
| AndrewSS | 03-17-2006 02:08 PM |
^ similar... well what about if my bolt was marred up a bit :)
| wm07 | 03-17-2006 02:42 PM |
didn't a rock hit your bolt and chipped it? :lol:
| Calamity Jesus | 03-17-2006 04:25 PM |
My point was that the order of manitude of the change doesn't matter, the rules is the rules.
But then:
[QUOTE=wm07]In Solo Rules, 13, sixth paragraph says:
"Hardware items (nuts, bolts, etc.) may be replaced by similar items of unrestricted origin. Safety wire, threadlocker compounds, and locking nuts are permitted. These allowances are strictly to allow components to be replaced from alternate sources other than the original manufacturer. They should not be construed as allowance to replace omponents with those which could be considered a 'higher performance' alternative. Parts available as replacements through the dealers parts departments, the factory, or any other source which do not meet standard part specifications (e.g., hardness, size, etc.) are not legal in Stock Category, except as specifically provided elsewhere in these rules."
So, as long as the bolt is "similar", then it should be fine. :)[/QUOTE]
AAhhhhh. Thank you.
--
I don't think the 'a rock hit your bolt and chipped it' would work either.. unless you think saying that a fender bender actually bent your fenders out and that a curbing incident gave you more camber. Remember the 'fender liners can't have holes', thing.
But then:
[QUOTE=wm07]In Solo Rules, 13, sixth paragraph says:
"Hardware items (nuts, bolts, etc.) may be replaced by similar items of unrestricted origin. Safety wire, threadlocker compounds, and locking nuts are permitted. These allowances are strictly to allow components to be replaced from alternate sources other than the original manufacturer. They should not be construed as allowance to replace omponents with those which could be considered a 'higher performance' alternative. Parts available as replacements through the dealers parts departments, the factory, or any other source which do not meet standard part specifications (e.g., hardness, size, etc.) are not legal in Stock Category, except as specifically provided elsewhere in these rules."
So, as long as the bolt is "similar", then it should be fine. :)[/QUOTE]
AAhhhhh. Thank you.
--
I don't think the 'a rock hit your bolt and chipped it' would work either.. unless you think saying that a fender bender actually bent your fenders out and that a curbing incident gave you more camber. Remember the 'fender liners can't have holes', thing.
| kursplat | 03-29-2006 11:48 PM |
well the big honkin' 32mm bar is in :D . no fitament problems, i have about an 1/8" of space between the bolt from hell and the bar. subaru was even nice enough to have installed it with the "flat" orientated properly. hardest part was pulling all the other stuff to get to it. no noise either, so far. i wrapped the bar with a self-adhesive plastic laminate sheet where the bushings ride. put a little anti-seize on and it's good so far.
[QUOTE] [I]AtomicRacer[/I] The only hard part was assembly of the end links. I was not able to use all four metal washers as the stack height was too tall to get the nut started. So I removed one of the washers from the middle and it assembled fine. I believe this will have zero impact on function and wear of the end links.[/QUOTE] i hung the bar from the middle bushings first. then for the endlinks i installed the bolts from the bottom. stacked everything but the last bushing/washer and used a small floorjack to compress everything. used to do it this way on MOPARS all the time. can't wait to try this on the track.
[QUOTE] [I]AtomicRacer[/I] The only hard part was assembly of the end links. I was not able to use all four metal washers as the stack height was too tall to get the nut started. So I removed one of the washers from the middle and it assembled fine. I believe this will have zero impact on function and wear of the end links.[/QUOTE] i hung the bar from the middle bushings first. then for the endlinks i installed the bolts from the bottom. stacked everything but the last bushing/washer and used a small floorjack to compress everything. used to do it this way on MOPARS all the time. can't wait to try this on the track.
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