| 68Cadillac | 09-21-2011 10:52 AM |
[quote=Kentrik;35105192]Bump to see if anyone has the for-sure, personal, first-hand experience of running a lightweight pulley with a lightweight flywheel yet? Looking for adverse conditions from a legitimate setup (no unbalanced cobb pulleys or underdrives).[/quote]
I run an ACT Prolite flywheel and a set of Unorthodox lightweight under-driven pulleys on the Daily.
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_3768.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_3684.jpg[/IMG]
No problems. Bit of gear chatter on decel expecially in third. And it's touchy to launch. Love the acceleration. Damn it's fast.
I run an ACT Prolite flywheel and a set of Unorthodox lightweight under-driven pulleys on the Daily.
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_3768.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_3684.jpg[/IMG]
No problems. Bit of gear chatter on decel expecially in third. And it's touchy to launch. Love the acceleration. Damn it's fast.
| DarkKnightBaku | 09-21-2011 12:01 PM |
i have heard a lot of complaints about the prolite flywheel but no one ever actually says the problems it causes, i have been debating this for a while, what is your opinion for a DD
| 68Cadillac | 09-21-2011 03:37 PM |
[quote=DarkKnightBaku;35169538]i have heard a lot of complaints about the prolite flywheel but no one ever actually says the problems it causes, i have been debating this for a while, what is your opinion for a DD[/quote]
I'm willing to compromise oodles o' comfort for performance so I might not have a rounded opinion on the matter. Acceleration is lighting quick. Wow can this thing climb the revs'. It is touchy to launch and you will kill it. When trying to do some slow speed maneuvers, like reversing from a stop uphill in a parking lot with children near the Subie. In a situation like that I'll kill it about 20% of the time. Most of the time it's not a problem. You get used to it like you would any other clutch.
There is gear chatter in all the gears but most of it happens in third. And [U]only [/U]during light deceleration. Passengers will ask you what the noise is and if your car's okay. I really should make a video of it so all you all can hear and decide for yourselves.
I'm willing to compromise oodles o' comfort for performance so I might not have a rounded opinion on the matter. Acceleration is lighting quick. Wow can this thing climb the revs'. It is touchy to launch and you will kill it. When trying to do some slow speed maneuvers, like reversing from a stop uphill in a parking lot with children near the Subie. In a situation like that I'll kill it about 20% of the time. Most of the time it's not a problem. You get used to it like you would any other clutch.
There is gear chatter in all the gears but most of it happens in third. And [U]only [/U]during light deceleration. Passengers will ask you what the noise is and if your car's okay. I really should make a video of it so all you all can hear and decide for yourselves.
| fallehero_08 | 09-22-2011 05:55 AM |
[quote=68Cadillac;35171861]I'm willing to compromise oodles o' comfort for performance so I might not have a rounded opinion on the matter. Acceleration is lighting quick. Wow can this thing climb the revs'. It is touchy to launch and you will kill it. When trying to do some slow speed maneuvers, like reversing from a stop uphill in a parking lot with children near the Subie. In a situation like that I'll kill it about 20% of the time. Most of the time it's not a problem. You get used to it like you would any other clutch.
There is gear chatter in all the gears but most of it happens in third. And [U]only [/U]during light deceleration. Passengers will ask you what the noise is and if your car's okay. I really should make a video of it so all you all can hear and decide for yourselves.[/quote]
mine makes the exact same sound, and 3rd seems to be the loudest. with my clutch its really on or off the clutch, slipping carbon isnt too good for it and feathering it usually kills it. i love it because most of my friends kill it and ive gotten it down pretty good. i kill it all the time in parking lots though, and steep hills i usually cheat.
There is gear chatter in all the gears but most of it happens in third. And [U]only [/U]during light deceleration. Passengers will ask you what the noise is and if your car's okay. I really should make a video of it so all you all can hear and decide for yourselves.[/quote]
mine makes the exact same sound, and 3rd seems to be the loudest. with my clutch its really on or off the clutch, slipping carbon isnt too good for it and feathering it usually kills it. i love it because most of my friends kill it and ive gotten it down pretty good. i kill it all the time in parking lots though, and steep hills i usually cheat.
| Murphdog | 09-22-2011 12:23 PM |
I have my U-brace removed and added the Subimods H brace. I've ran multipal track days with some of my fastest times and feel no negative affects.
| SoCal_Scooby | 09-23-2011 12:44 AM |
[quote=Murphdog;35179857]I have my U-brace removed and added the Subimods H brace. I've ran multipal track days with some of my fastest times and feel no negative affects.[/quote]
have you tested it with it on and off during the same day?
have you tested it with it on and off during the same day?
| JDwhiteWRX | 10-21-2011 08:20 AM |
[B]EDIT: Its going to be too much work to move the exhaust, looking for something like a KSB700 or Cusco brace now that doesn't sit so high up under the floor, pitty because I think this brace would have been a lot stiffer.[/B]
Moving on to version 3 of the u-brace replacement now, still wasn't happy with the h-brace, I wanted something stiffer that would bolt directly to the back of the control arms i.e. a GC8 brace.
Fitting a GC8 brace involves trimming the u-brace mounting points a little
trim these mounting tabs off
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010008-9.jpg[/IMG]
gone
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010030-2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010028-2.jpg[/IMG]
painted
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010045-2.jpg[/IMG]
This is the brace I have chosen, its from Ultra Racing and is made from steel not aluminum alloy, I like the triangulation it has and I was able to pick it up for a good price by contacting the company direct via ebay.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010017-3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010025.jpg[/IMG]
It hits my exhaust at the moment so I haven't fully fitted it up yet but I wanted to get my exhaust tucked up a little closer to the floor so I will be getting my exhaust guy to make it clear the brace at the same time. If you have a 6 speed this brace won't fit.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010039-4.jpg[/IMG]
Moving on to version 3 of the u-brace replacement now, still wasn't happy with the h-brace, I wanted something stiffer that would bolt directly to the back of the control arms i.e. a GC8 brace.
Fitting a GC8 brace involves trimming the u-brace mounting points a little
trim these mounting tabs off
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010008-9.jpg[/IMG]
gone
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010030-2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010028-2.jpg[/IMG]
painted
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010045-2.jpg[/IMG]
This is the brace I have chosen, its from Ultra Racing and is made from steel not aluminum alloy, I like the triangulation it has and I was able to pick it up for a good price by contacting the company direct via ebay.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010017-3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010025.jpg[/IMG]
It hits my exhaust at the moment so I haven't fully fitted it up yet but I wanted to get my exhaust tucked up a little closer to the floor so I will be getting my exhaust guy to make it clear the brace at the same time. If you have a 6 speed this brace won't fit.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010039-4.jpg[/IMG]
| JDwhiteWRX | 11-16-2011 03:59 AM |
So I searched for another brace and luckily I found just the thing I wanted on ebay at a bargain price. Its a JIC Magic GC8 brace made from steel and because it mounts the the rear of the ALK it is not going to hit my exhaust.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010003-13.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010001-12.jpg[/IMG]
All I had to do was remove two bolts on each side and bolt it up. I thought once I removed the front control arm bolts it may drop a little and they would be hard to get back in but they didn't. the only thing I had to do was fit it up and then torque everything back up with the full weight of the car on the suspension so the rubber bushes wouldn't bind.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/Untitled-1.jpg[/IMG]
So all fitted up in about 1 hour and ready for a test drive, pitty it was raining so that will have to wait until later in the week.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010014-3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010012-5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010008-10.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010015-6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010003-13.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010001-12.jpg[/IMG]
All I had to do was remove two bolts on each side and bolt it up. I thought once I removed the front control arm bolts it may drop a little and they would be hard to get back in but they didn't. the only thing I had to do was fit it up and then torque everything back up with the full weight of the car on the suspension so the rubber bushes wouldn't bind.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/Untitled-1.jpg[/IMG]
So all fitted up in about 1 hour and ready for a test drive, pitty it was raining so that will have to wait until later in the week.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010014-3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010012-5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010008-10.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010015-6.jpg[/IMG]
| Omega_2nr | 11-16-2011 05:52 AM |
[quote=JDwhiteWRX;34975549]Seems to be a bit of a myth that the Spec C has no u-brace, this car is a spec c a guy down here is setting up for track and you can clearly see the u-brace.
[IMG]http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x120/BTWRX/180.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x120/BTWRX/230394_2083659854459_1334002012_32565454_6229543_n.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
You sure this car isn't a V-Limited STi (assuming it's JDM)?
The V-Limited's have the roof scoop and whatnot of the Spec C, but have all the trimmings of the "normal" STi. They came with the front "U-brace" as you call it.
[IMG]http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x120/BTWRX/180.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x120/BTWRX/230394_2083659854459_1334002012_32565454_6229543_n.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
You sure this car isn't a V-Limited STi (assuming it's JDM)?
The V-Limited's have the roof scoop and whatnot of the Spec C, but have all the trimmings of the "normal" STi. They came with the front "U-brace" as you call it.
| stu | 11-16-2011 12:40 PM |
here is a RPM subframe brace, its lighter and makes a very big differance in front end turn in. it eliminates almost all chassis flex. it can be had for 420$
[IMG]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l5/medved21/subframe1-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l5/medved21/subframe1-1.jpg[/IMG]
| JDwhiteWRX | 11-16-2011 05:11 PM |
[quote=Omega_2nr;35644793]You sure this car isn't a V-Limited STi (assuming it's JDM)?
The V-Limited's have the roof scoop and whatnot of the Spec C, but have all the trimmings of the "normal" STi. They came with the front "U-brace" as you call it.[/quote]
According to the owner its a spec c, when I asked him about the u-brace he said [I]"Both of our Spec C's have had them... and every other one I have seen?"[/I]
The V-Limited's have the roof scoop and whatnot of the Spec C, but have all the trimmings of the "normal" STi. They came with the front "U-brace" as you call it.[/quote]
According to the owner its a spec c, when I asked him about the u-brace he said [I]"Both of our Spec C's have had them... and every other one I have seen?"[/I]
| u2_m4r1n3 | 11-16-2011 05:25 PM |
[quote="stu"]here is a RPM subframe brace, its lighter and makes a very big differance in front end turn in. it eliminates almost all chassis flex. it can be had for 420$
[/quote]
I had that when I had the 06 STI; Did wonders in feel. I'd do it again if I bought another GD STI.
[/quote]
I had that when I had the 06 STI; Did wonders in feel. I'd do it again if I bought another GD STI.
| Ethan_Drift | 11-16-2011 05:34 PM |
Another way of removing the tar sound deading that I did in my 240 is to use dry ice. Buy about 4 bags of it and let it sit on top of the sound deadening for about 15 minutes. Then, hit it with a hammer or chisel and comes right off. Make sure you wear gloves when handling the dry ice.
| u2_m4r1n3 | 11-16-2011 06:24 PM |
I used my heat gun. Way less of a mess that way. Just very hot... Lol.
| JDwhiteWRX | 11-16-2011 06:44 PM |
Dry ice is the easy way to do it, pops off in big sheets.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010006-5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010006-5.jpg[/IMG]
| DarkKnightBaku | 11-16-2011 08:24 PM |
2 questions, has anyone weighed the OEM GD STI Hood and has anyone come up with a different parking brake solution to remove the rear drum parking brake, i have heard it weighs over 20lbs
| u2_m4r1n3 | 11-16-2011 10:08 PM |
[quote="DarkKnightBaku"]2 questions, has anyone weighed the OEM GD STI Hood and has anyone come up with a different parking brake solution to remove the rear drum parking brake, i have heard it weighs over 20lbs[/quote]
It's aluminum... My guess is around 30 lbs, probably mid to high 20s.
Only other "parking brake" is using a hydrolic e brake... Not really a good replacement. But it could work.
Or... Remove it completely. It's a manual trans, put it ob reverse when you park.
It's aluminum... My guess is around 30 lbs, probably mid to high 20s.
Only other "parking brake" is using a hydrolic e brake... Not really a good replacement. But it could work.
Or... Remove it completely. It's a manual trans, put it ob reverse when you park.
| DarkKnightBaku | 11-16-2011 10:41 PM |
saw a couple examples of the hydraulic e brake setup its pretty ridiculous but awesome, lots of work, definitely seems like a track car mod in terms of work to benefits ratio
| Murphdog | 11-17-2011 01:28 AM |
[quote=SoCal_Scooby;35186610]have you tested it with it on and off during the same day?[/quote]
Never tried that. I just have times from the same track with and without the U-brace on from different days. I felt no ill effects with it off and the Subimods brace on.
Never tried that. I just have times from the same track with and without the U-brace on from different days. I felt no ill effects with it off and the Subimods brace on.
| 573 | 11-17-2011 09:26 AM |
I took my weight reduction so seriously I got a Miata.
| u2_m4r1n3 | 11-17-2011 10:29 AM |
[quote="573"]I took my weight reduction so seriously I got a Miata.[/quote]
Funny...
I guess around a go-kart track it would be fun. No need for power there :/
It's about weight to power ratio buddy... Take it easy with the miata @__@
My M3s weight to power ratio is: 11.366 lbs per WHP (stock power, lightweight)
The 09 STI I had was: 10.46 lbs per WHP (basically all bolt ons, lightweight)
Funny...
I guess around a go-kart track it would be fun. No need for power there :/
It's about weight to power ratio buddy... Take it easy with the miata @__@
My M3s weight to power ratio is: 11.366 lbs per WHP (stock power, lightweight)
The 09 STI I had was: 10.46 lbs per WHP (basically all bolt ons, lightweight)
| 573 | 11-17-2011 02:38 PM |
[quote=u2_m4r1n3;35655494]Funny...
I guess around a go-kart track it would be fun. No need for power there :/
It's about weight to power ratio buddy... Take it easy with the miata @__@
My M3s weight to power ratio is: 11.366 lbs per WHP (stock power, lightweight)
The 09 STI I had was: 10.46 lbs per WHP (basically all bolt ons, lightweight)[/quote]
I say that in good humor because I used to legitimately post in this thread before I hit a deer in my WRX, totaling it.
There's more to it than power to weight ratio, though. A good power to weight ratio only helps with acceleration. Being light weight helps acceleration, steering, and braking. The Miata I got has boost, and a power to weight ratio right around 11 lbs/whp. Not bad, and the car still has a lot left in it. ;)
I don't want to derail the thread, though. Just trying to make a funny.
I guess around a go-kart track it would be fun. No need for power there :/
It's about weight to power ratio buddy... Take it easy with the miata @__@
My M3s weight to power ratio is: 11.366 lbs per WHP (stock power, lightweight)
The 09 STI I had was: 10.46 lbs per WHP (basically all bolt ons, lightweight)[/quote]
I say that in good humor because I used to legitimately post in this thread before I hit a deer in my WRX, totaling it.
There's more to it than power to weight ratio, though. A good power to weight ratio only helps with acceleration. Being light weight helps acceleration, steering, and braking. The Miata I got has boost, and a power to weight ratio right around 11 lbs/whp. Not bad, and the car still has a lot left in it. ;)
I don't want to derail the thread, though. Just trying to make a funny.
| u2_m4r1n3 | 11-17-2011 03:07 PM |
[quote="573"]
I say that in good humor because I used to legitimately post in this thread before I hit a deer in my WRX, totaling it.
There's more to it than power to weight ratio, though. A good power to weight ratio only helps with acceleration. Being light weight helps acceleration, steering, and braking. The Miata I got has boost, and a power to weight ratio right around 11 lbs/whp. Not bad, and the car still has a lot left in it. ;)
I don't want to derail the thread, though. Just trying to make a funny.[/quote]
Haha, all good!
And a good weight distribution!
My buddy has a miata.. he wants to boosts it too. We kid around, we are known as: LWC (light-weight crew). Lol, not really, we are the only 2 :l
I plan on being around a 9.95 lb per whp soon (300 whp); pulleys and cf driveshaft only power mods, all N/A. Just that light, for a big car.
I say that in good humor because I used to legitimately post in this thread before I hit a deer in my WRX, totaling it.
There's more to it than power to weight ratio, though. A good power to weight ratio only helps with acceleration. Being light weight helps acceleration, steering, and braking. The Miata I got has boost, and a power to weight ratio right around 11 lbs/whp. Not bad, and the car still has a lot left in it. ;)
I don't want to derail the thread, though. Just trying to make a funny.[/quote]
Haha, all good!
And a good weight distribution!
My buddy has a miata.. he wants to boosts it too. We kid around, we are known as: LWC (light-weight crew). Lol, not really, we are the only 2 :l
I plan on being around a 9.95 lb per whp soon (300 whp); pulleys and cf driveshaft only power mods, all N/A. Just that light, for a big car.
| JDwhiteWRX | 12-10-2011 12:05 AM |
Inspired by 68Cadillac I used a spot weld removal tool on my engine bay to shave off a few brackets I no longer use.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010006-8.jpg[/IMG]
finished and painted
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010009-7.jpg[/IMG]
[URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/member.php?u=95901"][/URL][/COLOR]
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010006-8.jpg[/IMG]
finished and painted
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010009-7.jpg[/IMG]
[URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/member.php?u=95901"][/URL][/COLOR]
| Nick05sti | 12-10-2011 01:51 AM |
What kind of "small" batteries do you guys use?
| 573 | 12-10-2011 09:09 AM |
The Odyssey PC680 is small, but can still start the car in freezing temperatures. It's a good choice if you daily drive your car in a colder climate. Weights ~15lbs, which is a good bit less than the stock one.
| DarkKnightBaku | 12-10-2011 09:47 AM |
[quote=JDwhiteWRX;35843431]Inspired by 68Cadillac I used a spot weld removal tool on my engine bay to shave off a few brackets I no longer use.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010006-8.jpg[/IMG]
finished and painted
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010009-7.jpg[/IMG]
[URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/member.php?u=95901"][/URL][/COLOR][/quote]
looks clean how long did it take you paint and all?
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010006-8.jpg[/IMG]
finished and painted
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010009-7.jpg[/IMG]
[URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/member.php?u=95901"][/URL][/COLOR][/quote]
looks clean how long did it take you paint and all?
| trollarc | 12-10-2011 10:04 AM |
[quote="573"]
I say that in good humor because I used to legitimately post in this thread before I hit a deer in my WRX, totaling it.
[/quote]
The deer or the WRX?
I say that in good humor because I used to legitimately post in this thread before I hit a deer in my WRX, totaling it.
[/quote]
The deer or the WRX?
| 68Cadillac | 12-10-2011 10:11 AM |
[IMG]http://www.gotbatteries.com/images/enersys/37L141S5.jpg[/IMG]
For the past 5 years I've used the Odyssey PC545. Okay for warm climates if you willing to put up with the issues that come with running such a small battery. I would warn anyone from using this battery in a location that regularly gets below freezing 0C (32F). Also, leaving the interior light on over night will drain it. Taking it out and weighing on my bathroom scale that reads in 0.2 lb increments it's 11.0 lb (5.0 kg). Factory rates it at 12.6 lb(5.7kg). Looks like it's lost 1.6lb (0.7 kg) since I installed it.
[IMG]http://www.atvsource.com/images/article-images/press-releases/2010/odyssey/020310-pc625-battery-ps.jpg[/IMG]
I just switched out to the Odyssey PC625, [B]yesterday[/B]. Weight on my bathroom scale that reads in 0.2 lb increments it's 13.2 lb (6.0 kg). Factory rates it at 13.2 lb (6.0 kg).
Why did I choose the PC625 over the PC680? Its has better Hot Cranking Amps(measured at 80F) and Marine Cranking Amps(measured at 32F). It also weighs 2.2 lb (1.0 kg) less. CCA is not a factor where I live. <------See side bar
[URL="http://www.odysseyfactory.com/battspecs.html"]Odyssey Battery Specs[/URL]
For the past 5 years I've used the Odyssey PC545. Okay for warm climates if you willing to put up with the issues that come with running such a small battery. I would warn anyone from using this battery in a location that regularly gets below freezing 0C (32F). Also, leaving the interior light on over night will drain it. Taking it out and weighing on my bathroom scale that reads in 0.2 lb increments it's 11.0 lb (5.0 kg). Factory rates it at 12.6 lb(5.7kg). Looks like it's lost 1.6lb (0.7 kg) since I installed it.
[IMG]http://www.atvsource.com/images/article-images/press-releases/2010/odyssey/020310-pc625-battery-ps.jpg[/IMG]
I just switched out to the Odyssey PC625, [B]yesterday[/B]. Weight on my bathroom scale that reads in 0.2 lb increments it's 13.2 lb (6.0 kg). Factory rates it at 13.2 lb (6.0 kg).
Why did I choose the PC625 over the PC680? Its has better Hot Cranking Amps(measured at 80F) and Marine Cranking Amps(measured at 32F). It also weighs 2.2 lb (1.0 kg) less. CCA is not a factor where I live. <------See side bar
[URL="http://www.odysseyfactory.com/battspecs.html"]Odyssey Battery Specs[/URL]
| 68Cadillac | 12-10-2011 10:13 AM |
[quote=JDwhiteWRX;35843431]Inspired by 68Cadillac...[/quote]
Now you got me blushing. :D Go forth and weigh less!
Now you got me blushing. :D Go forth and weigh less!
| 573 | 12-10-2011 10:38 AM |
[quote=trollarc;35844866]The deer or the WRX?[/quote]
Both. :mad:
Both. :mad:
| wrxman02 | 12-10-2011 10:45 AM |
go to aluminum piston return springs, muffler bearings and key off return lever. Carbon fibre oil filter and wiper blades are a must. Winter air vs summer air in the tires is weight savings. I also was told that using only 3/5 lugs will save rotating mass. You will make out really wel. Good luck. LOL.
| gtasti | 12-10-2011 11:08 AM |
remove post made mistake
| gtasti | 12-10-2011 11:10 AM |
[quote=JDwhiteWRX;35843431]Inspired by 68Cadillac I used a spot weld removal tool on my engine bay to shave off a few brackets I no longer use.
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010006-8.jpg[/IMG]
finished and painted
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010009-7.jpg[/IMG]
[/color][/quote]
where did you get the spot welder tool from
and what kinda wire did u use to relocate the battery
really like to do this mod
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010006-8.jpg[/IMG]
finished and painted
[IMG]http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/P1010009-7.jpg[/IMG]
[/color][/quote]
where did you get the spot welder tool from
and what kinda wire did u use to relocate the battery
really like to do this mod
| u2_m4r1n3 | 12-10-2011 04:50 PM |
[quote=gtasti;35845151]where did you get the spot welder tool from
and what kinda wire did u use to relocate the battery
really like to do this mod[/quote]
Probably 0 to 1 gauge wire for the positive, or 2 to 3 gauge is you want to cut down on more weight... just need to be careful on the electronics you're running; and 6-8 for the neg (since it will be screwed down somewhere in the trunk).
and what kinda wire did u use to relocate the battery
really like to do this mod[/quote]
Probably 0 to 1 gauge wire for the positive, or 2 to 3 gauge is you want to cut down on more weight... just need to be careful on the electronics you're running; and 6-8 for the neg (since it will be screwed down somewhere in the trunk).
| gtasti | 12-10-2011 06:00 PM |
[quote=u2_m4r1n3;35846941]Probably 0 to 1 gauge wire for the positive, or 2 to 3 gauge is you want to cut down on more weight... just need to be careful on the electronics you're running; and 6-8 for the neg (since it will be screwed down somewhere in the trunk).[/quote]
aww ok thanks
aww ok thanks
| JDwhiteWRX | 12-11-2011 12:01 AM |
[quote=Nick05sti;35843916]What kind of "small" batteries do you guys use?[/quote]
Odyssey PC680, works perfect.
Odyssey PC680, works perfect.
| JDwhiteWRX | 12-11-2011 12:13 AM |
[quote=DarkKnightBaku;35844792]looks clean how long did it take you paint and all?[/quote]
Whole job took about 2 hours, its not a super neat paint job but its no show car either. If you wanted to do show quality or even OEM finish it would take a lot longer, you would need to file down all the spot welds flat and possibly use some filler to get the bay smooth again before painting.
[quote=gtasti;35845151]where did you get the spot welder tool from
and what kinda wire did u use to relocate the battery
really like to do this mod[/quote]
I went to about 3 places to find it but they are on ebay if you're not in a hurry. The place I got it was a welding supplies and tool shop but no point mentioning where as I am in Australia.
Some details on my battery install [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=33486439&postcount=73[/url]
Whole job took about 2 hours, its not a super neat paint job but its no show car either. If you wanted to do show quality or even OEM finish it would take a lot longer, you would need to file down all the spot welds flat and possibly use some filler to get the bay smooth again before painting.
[quote=gtasti;35845151]where did you get the spot welder tool from
and what kinda wire did u use to relocate the battery
really like to do this mod[/quote]
I went to about 3 places to find it but they are on ebay if you're not in a hurry. The place I got it was a welding supplies and tool shop but no point mentioning where as I am in Australia.
Some details on my battery install [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=33486439&postcount=73[/url]
| vicious_fishes | 12-16-2011 08:51 AM |
just installed an ACT streetlite flywheel to go with my standard diameter lightweight crank pulley set.
damn it's grumpy now. occasionally stalls when you dump the throttle, you need to be extremely proficient with a clutch, cold starts piss it off & take a half dozen cranks...
but no CEL and damn it's fast :D
damn it's grumpy now. occasionally stalls when you dump the throttle, you need to be extremely proficient with a clutch, cold starts piss it off & take a half dozen cranks...
but no CEL and damn it's fast :D
| u2_m4r1n3 | 12-16-2011 11:09 AM |
You can always remove the charcoal canister. Depending on the vehicle, good for 5-10 lbs.
Just need to plug the line that goes to the gas tank with a 1-way filter/vent...
Just need to plug the line that goes to the gas tank with a 1-way filter/vent...
| gtasti | 12-16-2011 12:05 PM |
[quote=u2_m4r1n3;35895682]You can always remove the charcoal canister. Depending on the vehicle, good for 5-10 lbs.
Just need to plug the line that goes to the gas tank with a 1-way filter/vent...[/quote]
can you explain this more I would love to remove it
Just need to plug the line that goes to the gas tank with a 1-way filter/vent...[/quote]
can you explain this more I would love to remove it
| u2_m4r1n3 | 12-16-2011 02:09 PM |
Basically, it goes down like this.....
1) You find the charcoal canister.
2) Trace the lines that go the gas tank and to the engine (throttle body or intake tube, depends on vehicle)
3) Remove the canister.
4) Remove all the extra lines, except the one going to the gas tank, plug the hole in the throttle body or air intake.
5) Buy the 1-way air vent ([ame="http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47149-Vacuum-Check-Valve/dp/B000COCU0M?tag=citofgamonlco-20"]Amazon.com: Dorman 47149 Vacuum Check Valve: Automotive[/ame]), put that in the tube that connects to the gas tank.
6) Ensure the gas tank tube is out of the way and zip tied down somewhere.
Now you've lost some weight and took one more piece off the car that can break. Down side is, you vent gas fumes to the atmosphere. I've done a ton of research and a LOT of people do this; obviously as well as race cars/dedicated track cars.
1) You find the charcoal canister.
2) Trace the lines that go the gas tank and to the engine (throttle body or intake tube, depends on vehicle)
3) Remove the canister.
4) Remove all the extra lines, except the one going to the gas tank, plug the hole in the throttle body or air intake.
5) Buy the 1-way air vent ([ame="http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47149-Vacuum-Check-Valve/dp/B000COCU0M?tag=citofgamonlco-20"]Amazon.com: Dorman 47149 Vacuum Check Valve: Automotive[/ame]), put that in the tube that connects to the gas tank.
6) Ensure the gas tank tube is out of the way and zip tied down somewhere.
Now you've lost some weight and took one more piece off the car that can break. Down side is, you vent gas fumes to the atmosphere. I've done a ton of research and a LOT of people do this; obviously as well as race cars/dedicated track cars.
| 68Cadillac | 12-16-2011 06:22 PM |
I was honestly surprised how much the EVAP system weighed.
[quote=68Cadillac;33102616]
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_3650.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_3651.jpg[/IMG]
EVAP system. Including everything but the hard line that runs over the top of the fuel tank. [B]4.080 kg! (8.995 lbm)[/B][/quote]
[quote=68Cadillac;33102616]
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_3650.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/SubaruParts/IMG_3651.jpg[/IMG]
EVAP system. Including everything but the hard line that runs over the top of the fuel tank. [B]4.080 kg! (8.995 lbm)[/B][/quote]
| u2_m4r1n3 | 12-16-2011 09:48 PM |
Thing looks heavy!
| subieslide | 12-16-2011 10:14 PM |
10lbs quick!
�
�
ex-lax ;)
| u2_m4r1n3 | 12-16-2011 11:02 PM |
Not if you have an athletic body and low body fat ;)
10 lbs off the car is a permanent 10 lbs off the car (unless you put it back on).
10 lbs off the car is a permanent 10 lbs off the car (unless you put it back on).
| Ethan_Drift | 12-17-2011 06:16 AM |
[quote=68Cadillac;35899668]I was honestly surprised how much the EVAP system weighed.[/quote]
Is there any write-up you used to complete this? Definitely would like to get this done sometime soon!
Is there any write-up you used to complete this? Definitely would like to get this done sometime soon!
| u2_m4r1n3 | 12-17-2011 11:01 AM |
[quote=Ethan_Drift;35902619]Is there any write-up you used to complete this? Definitely would like to get this done sometime soon![/quote]
Look at post #1242... should basically be the same for any car.
Look at post #1242... should basically be the same for any car.
| gtasti | 12-17-2011 11:17 AM |
wow 41lbs for that evap
I might have to get that done some how
hey cadillac can you explain what u removed from under the hood part
I might have to get that done some how
hey cadillac can you explain what u removed from under the hood part
| 68Cadillac | 12-17-2011 04:31 PM |
[quote=gtasti;35903334]wow 41lbs for that evap[/quote]
Looks like you shifted a decimal and used the wrong unit.[B] 4.080 kg[/B]. A kilogram is not a pound.
Looks like you shifted a decimal and used the wrong unit.[B] 4.080 kg[/B]. A kilogram is not a pound.
| u2_m4r1n3 | 12-17-2011 06:46 PM |
Does no one read post around pictures? o_O
| vicious_fishes | 12-17-2011 10:23 PM |
evap system just allows the fual tank to pressurise right? i.e when fuel goes out, air's gotta go in?
| u2_m4r1n3 | 12-18-2011 08:38 AM |
It let's controls the fumes by circulating it back to the intake/throttle body and lets pressure out of the tank.
Tht fuel and fuel pump make plenty of pressure, but when the pressure gets to high, it needs to be released. Supposedly the gas tanks fuel cap lets air in and out, but I would play it safe and not plug the fuel tank hose (EVAP to fule tank, once the EVAP is removed) and put that one way vaccume valve in. let's pressure out, but won't let air in.
Tht fuel and fuel pump make plenty of pressure, but when the pressure gets to high, it needs to be released. Supposedly the gas tanks fuel cap lets air in and out, but I would play it safe and not plug the fuel tank hose (EVAP to fule tank, once the EVAP is removed) and put that one way vaccume valve in. let's pressure out, but won't let air in.
| vicious_fishes | 12-18-2011 09:51 AM |
here i thought the tank would actually be under negative pressure as the fuel was pumped out... interesting.
so a 1 way valve to let air out but not in, and that's all there is to it?
so a 1 way valve to let air out but not in, and that's all there is to it?
| u2_m4r1n3 | 12-18-2011 11:35 AM |
From my weeks of internet research, yes. lol.
basically the fumes of the fuel create the pressure and the fuel pump helps as well. Not sure of the science behind it, but they work hand in hand... makes sense I guess.
there are 2 ways to go about it, put the 1 way valve or plug the hose. I've read people doing both, some plugging the hose and claiming fuel cap lets air in and out and will last just fine and others saying that plugging it will cause too much pressure and weaken the gas tank quicker (not months) than if it was vented; hence why some people vent it. I've also read that some people just leave the hose as is and zip tie up some where open.
I prefer to start with the 1-way vent, it's a good middle area to start; if it doesn't work i can always plug it. worst than can happen with the 1-way vent is that there isn't enough pressure. If thats the case (which I'm sure it wont be) then i know leaving the hose open to flow both ways would not be good either, since the air pressure would be equal to the exterior, therefore no pressure in the tank.
I'm doing it to my car next week sometime; hopefully by Wed.
basically the fumes of the fuel create the pressure and the fuel pump helps as well. Not sure of the science behind it, but they work hand in hand... makes sense I guess.
there are 2 ways to go about it, put the 1 way valve or plug the hose. I've read people doing both, some plugging the hose and claiming fuel cap lets air in and out and will last just fine and others saying that plugging it will cause too much pressure and weaken the gas tank quicker (not months) than if it was vented; hence why some people vent it. I've also read that some people just leave the hose as is and zip tie up some where open.
I prefer to start with the 1-way vent, it's a good middle area to start; if it doesn't work i can always plug it. worst than can happen with the 1-way vent is that there isn't enough pressure. If thats the case (which I'm sure it wont be) then i know leaving the hose open to flow both ways would not be good either, since the air pressure would be equal to the exterior, therefore no pressure in the tank.
I'm doing it to my car next week sometime; hopefully by Wed.
| gtasti | 12-18-2011 11:30 PM |
u2_m4r1n3
do a write on it when you do it and yes I can read
I just want to make sure I no what I'm removing..
also this doesnt throw any codes with the sensor being removed for the evap
talking about the sensor right by the alternator
[img]http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/9910/cars006c.jpg[/img]
do a write on it when you do it and yes I can read
I just want to make sure I no what I'm removing..
also this doesnt throw any codes with the sensor being removed for the evap
talking about the sensor right by the alternator
[img]http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/9910/cars006c.jpg[/img]
| u2_m4r1n3 | 12-19-2011 09:09 AM |
[quote="gtasti"]u2_m4r1n3
do a write on it when you do it and yes I can read
I just want to make sure I no what I'm removing..
also this doesnt throw any codes with the sensor being removed for the evap
talking about the sensor right by the alternator
[/quote]
I will do a write up, issue is I have a M3 now. So other than hose comparison, the vehicles placement of the EVAP could be different. But I'm pretty sure the basic idea the same; I don't think they would make each EVAP completely different (connection wise) for every vehicle. They all serve the same purpose, so hopefully it is for both our vehicles.
do a write on it when you do it and yes I can read
I just want to make sure I no what I'm removing..
also this doesnt throw any codes with the sensor being removed for the evap
talking about the sensor right by the alternator
[/quote]
I will do a write up, issue is I have a M3 now. So other than hose comparison, the vehicles placement of the EVAP could be different. But I'm pretty sure the basic idea the same; I don't think they would make each EVAP completely different (connection wise) for every vehicle. They all serve the same purpose, so hopefully it is for both our vehicles.
| 68Cadillac | 12-23-2011 02:04 PM |
[quote=gtasti;35913869]...
also this doesnt throw any codes with the sensor being removed for the evap
talking about the sensor right by the alternator[/quote]
Is that a question?
Yes removing the EVAP system will throw codes.
ECU throwing codes for a system you've disabled?: [URL="http://romraider.com/"]RomRaider[/URL]
also this doesnt throw any codes with the sensor being removed for the evap
talking about the sensor right by the alternator[/quote]
Is that a question?
Yes removing the EVAP system will throw codes.
ECU throwing codes for a system you've disabled?: [URL="http://romraider.com/"]RomRaider[/URL]
| vicious_fishes | 12-31-2011 08:15 AM |
just started ripping all the firewall sound deadening out. man is that stuff dense! there's a lot of weight in there, and right up the front of the car too.
| gtasti | 12-31-2011 02:29 PM |
[quote=68Cadillac;35952055]Is that a question?
Yes removing the EVAP system will throw codes.
ECU throwing codes for a system you've disabled?: [URL="http://romraider.com/"]RomRaider[/URL][/quote]
yea it was a question
my tuner can prob delete the codes for me either way
can someone post some pics of the evap removed from under the hood
Yes removing the EVAP system will throw codes.
ECU throwing codes for a system you've disabled?: [URL="http://romraider.com/"]RomRaider[/URL][/quote]
yea it was a question
my tuner can prob delete the codes for me either way
can someone post some pics of the evap removed from under the hood
Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét