| Uncle Scotty | 10-20-2004 03:45 PM |
[QUOTE=RC0310]Brille lightweight battery only weighs 11.5lbs.. and there's many other brands that offers light weight battery in the 12lbs range.[/QUOTE]
The non-MJ...no metal jacket version of the PC680....weighs 2 pounds less and has a lower MAX service temperature rating.
I researched these types of batteries at great length and the Braille does not seem to have the documentation of the Odyssey...that I can find, anyway.....
I fail to see what a pound or 2 will matter, anyway.....going to this length and NOT relocating the battery would be a pointless exercise to me....that is why I put mine under the seat.
The non-MJ...no metal jacket version of the PC680....weighs 2 pounds less and has a lower MAX service temperature rating.
I researched these types of batteries at great length and the Braille does not seem to have the documentation of the Odyssey...that I can find, anyway.....
I fail to see what a pound or 2 will matter, anyway.....going to this length and NOT relocating the battery would be a pointless exercise to me....that is why I put mine under the seat.
| RC0310 | 10-20-2004 04:29 PM |
heh, I'd relocate mine to the trunk probably.
I dunno much about batteries, but it seems like most ppl use Odyssey more than Brille~
I dunno much about batteries, but it seems like most ppl use Odyssey more than Brille~
| horshack | 10-20-2004 05:18 PM |
[QUOTE=RC0310]heh, I'd relocate mine to the trunk probably.
I dunno much about batteries, but it seems like most ppl use Odyssey more than Brille~[/QUOTE]
Dont forget to check the rule books!
In some rule books, a relo bat requires an external cut-off switch. So dont fail tech because you only performed half the mod.
I dunno much about batteries, but it seems like most ppl use Odyssey more than Brille~[/QUOTE]
Dont forget to check the rule books!
In some rule books, a relo bat requires an external cut-off switch. So dont fail tech because you only performed half the mod.
| Uncle Scotty | 10-20-2004 10:45 PM |
[QUOTE=horshack]Dont forget to check the rule books!
[/QUOTE]
[SIZE=3]Screw the rule book...[/SIZE]
...one of the biggest reasons that I get pissed offis people wanting me to 'go racing'...or whatever....I don't wanna hear any horse**** about the damned rules....it's a street car...not a race car.
[/QUOTE]
[SIZE=3]Screw the rule book...[/SIZE]
...one of the biggest reasons that I get pissed offis people wanting me to 'go racing'...or whatever....I don't wanna hear any horse**** about the damned rules....it's a street car...not a race car.
| catalySTi | 10-20-2004 11:07 PM |
[QUOTE=Uncle Scotty][SIZE=3]Screw the rule book...[/SIZE]
...one of the biggest reasons that I get pissed offis people wanting me to 'go racing'...or whatever....I don't wanna hear any horse**** about the damned rules....it's a street car...not a race car.[/QUOTE]
My sentiments exactly! I would have said it myself but you stated it first. Must be the time zone difference.
Zana
...one of the biggest reasons that I get pissed offis people wanting me to 'go racing'...or whatever....I don't wanna hear any horse**** about the damned rules....it's a street car...not a race car.[/QUOTE]
My sentiments exactly! I would have said it myself but you stated it first. Must be the time zone difference.
Zana
| RC0310 | 10-21-2004 02:39 AM |
[QUOTE=horshack]Dont forget to check the rule books!
In some rule books, a relo bat requires an external cut-off switch. So dont fail tech because you only performed half the mod.[/QUOTE]
heh, thanks for ur friendly reminder!
In some rule books, a relo bat requires an external cut-off switch. So dont fail tech because you only performed half the mod.[/QUOTE]
heh, thanks for ur friendly reminder!
| BIGSKYWRX | 10-21-2004 10:00 AM |
I didn't relocate mine to the trunk as the extra wiring (would need to be heavier gauge) than oem as well would negate the weight loss. It would be in better place granted (distribution wise), but just trimming 20 lbs off the front end w/o the hassle isn't too bad either. I also mounted mine (Odyssey 680) flat and w/ a heat shield.
Concerning jdm bumpers- can't speak to the GC8's, but on the GD's your talking the difference between 10 mph "crash" standard (US) and 5 mph (JDM). This was something the insurance companies pushed (and probably rightfully so) to insure a low mile/hour "crash" wouldn't result in more than X amount of $. I don't think there is much of a safety issue in a real "crash" between the two bumpers. May be a "safety" issue to your wallet in a fender bender :).
Concerning jdm bumpers- can't speak to the GC8's, but on the GD's your talking the difference between 10 mph "crash" standard (US) and 5 mph (JDM). This was something the insurance companies pushed (and probably rightfully so) to insure a low mile/hour "crash" wouldn't result in more than X amount of $. I don't think there is much of a safety issue in a real "crash" between the two bumpers. May be a "safety" issue to your wallet in a fender bender :).
| horshack | 10-21-2004 10:24 AM |
[QUOTE=Uncle Scotty][SIZE=3]Screw the rule book...[/SIZE]
...one of the biggest reasons that I get pissed offis people wanting me to 'go racing'...or whatever....I don't wanna hear any horse**** about the damned rules....it's a street car...not a race car.[/QUOTE]
Well if its really a street car that will never see any track time, what are you so worried about weight for? I mean, all the weight savings in the world wont eliminate the extra poundage of 4 folks in your car at the BK drive through!
Now a street legal race car and a street car are totally different in nature. I guess you have to determine you end goal for the car before you spend alot of time and money heading in a needless direction.
...one of the biggest reasons that I get pissed offis people wanting me to 'go racing'...or whatever....I don't wanna hear any horse**** about the damned rules....it's a street car...not a race car.[/QUOTE]
Well if its really a street car that will never see any track time, what are you so worried about weight for? I mean, all the weight savings in the world wont eliminate the extra poundage of 4 folks in your car at the BK drive through!
Now a street legal race car and a street car are totally different in nature. I guess you have to determine you end goal for the car before you spend alot of time and money heading in a needless direction.
| Uncle Scotty | 10-21-2004 10:31 AM |
[QUOTE=horshack]Well if its really a street car that will never see any track time, what are you so worried about weight for? I mean, all the weight savings in the world wont eliminate the extra poundage of 4 folks in your car at the BK drive through!
Now a street legal race car and a street car are totally different in nature. I guess you have to determine you end goal for the car before you spend alot of time and money heading in a needless direction.[/QUOTE]
It is fairly easy to build an AWESOME street car....one that will eat the vast majority of other cars encountered daily....that is a great kick to drive and is reliable.....BUT.....would be an 'also ran' as a race car, due to the 'foo roolz' and 'classification'.....
...and it is possible to build a great race car, according to some foo roolz, that is virtually impossible to drive daily.....
I've made my choice, and I drive it daily.
[SIZE=6]SCREW THE RULE BOOK.[/SIZE]
Now a street legal race car and a street car are totally different in nature. I guess you have to determine you end goal for the car before you spend alot of time and money heading in a needless direction.[/QUOTE]
It is fairly easy to build an AWESOME street car....one that will eat the vast majority of other cars encountered daily....that is a great kick to drive and is reliable.....BUT.....would be an 'also ran' as a race car, due to the 'foo roolz' and 'classification'.....
...and it is possible to build a great race car, according to some foo roolz, that is virtually impossible to drive daily.....
I've made my choice, and I drive it daily.
[SIZE=6]SCREW THE RULE BOOK.[/SIZE]
| aspera | 10-21-2004 11:39 AM |
Lighter is better. Plain and simple. Always has been, always will be. The question isn't "Why are you spending so much time and money for such a small gain?", but rather "Does that part really need to be there?". That focus on making the car lighter and faster, no matter how small of a change, no matter what the race rules are, no matter what the law says...is hot rodding.
I like it because it is more 'pure' than prepping the car for racing.
I like it because it is more 'pure' than prepping the car for racing.
| Wayne_Coots | 10-22-2004 06:37 AM |
Those of you with GC's should take a look at these two links. When he is finished it should be a nice weight reduction. Front carbon fenders 2lb's, carbon hood 6lb's, carbon side skirts, rear carbon fenders, and carbon front and rear bumper covers. making fenders and hoods that are that light will also help with weight distribution.
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22528&page=1[/url]
[url]http://www.aerosim-research.com/services_subaru.html[/url]
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22528&page=1[/url]
[url]http://www.aerosim-research.com/services_subaru.html[/url]
| bemani | 10-22-2004 01:42 PM |
Speaking of carbon sideskirts, are the sideskirts there for cosmetic or aerodynamic reasons?
| Uncle Scotty | 10-22-2004 05:52 PM |
Depends on how low it is and how the skirts are shaped/mounted/sealed to the car.
| exhacker | 10-26-2004 08:57 PM |
:furious: I hate to be the one to say this... if you're not "adding" to the weight reduction discussion, please bicker over PM's. Thanks :banana: This thing is already 13 #@$%ing pages.
| aspera | 10-28-2004 07:35 PM |
This thread is ghastly heavy.:D
| bemani | 10-28-2004 07:36 PM |
[QUOTE=Uncle Scotty]Depends on how low it is and how the skirts are shaped/mounted/sealed to the car.[/QUOTE]
What are the 02 oem sideskirts for?
What are the 02 oem sideskirts for?
| HalfBaked | 11-11-2004 01:35 PM |
[QUOTE=peanut]i dont want to remove just the cover.. but all the brakets to.. there is a couple pounds right there.. and well every little bit adds up right :)[/QUOTE]
Hi person who has the member number right before me.
Hi person who has the member number right before me.
| BIGSKYWRX | 11-11-2004 09:27 PM |
Anyone have accurate weights of the WRX oem calipers/rotors front and rear?
Danka
Danka
| Uncle Scotty | 11-11-2004 09:31 PM |
[QUOTE=bemani]What are the 02 oem sideskirts for?[/QUOTE]
To cover the part of the car that they cover in a plausibly deniable material ;)
To cover the part of the car that they cover in a plausibly deniable material ;)
| Uncle Scotty | 11-11-2004 09:35 PM |
[QUOTE=BIGSKYWRX]Anyone have accurate weights of the WRX oem calipers/rotors front and rear?
Danka[/QUOTE]
I can try to get some weighed in the next day or two if nobody else can....the rotors are easy...the calipers are a bit more work....I gotta dig them out of storage ;)
Danka[/QUOTE]
I can try to get some weighed in the next day or two if nobody else can....the rotors are easy...the calipers are a bit more work....I gotta dig them out of storage ;)
| BIGSKYWRX | 11-11-2004 09:42 PM |
[QUOTE=Uncle Scotty]I can try to get some weighed in the next day or two if nobody else can....the rotors are easy...the calipers are a bit more work....I gotta dig them out of storage ;)[/QUOTE]
Thank you kind sir!
Thank you kind sir!
| bemani | 11-15-2004 02:03 PM |
[QUOTE=Uncle Scotty]To cover the part of the car that they cover in a plausibly deniable material ;)[/QUOTE]
Then its gone!
I have weights for the rotor but they're not accurate since they're used ...
Then its gone!
I have weights for the rotor but they're not accurate since they're used ...
| RC0310 | 12-13-2004 11:51 AM |
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/BlitzScooby/IMG_1641.jpg[/IMG]
not bad for an 04 :)
1320kg ~ 2910lbs
not bad for an 04 :)
1320kg ~ 2910lbs
| bemani | 12-23-2004 03:06 AM |
I have a Cobra Imola 2 seat in my car now, that Wedge bracket is heavier than the seat, its ridiculous. I went with no sliders on my passenger side to save more weight.
Next ... aluminum, carbon fiber, or fiber glass trunk lid?
Next ... aluminum, carbon fiber, or fiber glass trunk lid?
| Uncle Scotty | 12-23-2004 08:13 AM |
[QUOTE=bemani]I have a Cobra Imola 2 seat in my car now, that Wedge bracket is heavier than the seat, its ridiculous. I went with no sliders on my passenger side to save more weight.
Next ... aluminum, carbon fiber, or fiber glass trunk lid?[/QUOTE]
I'd be all over one of those aluminum spec C rear lids in a heartbeat.
Factory part, factory fit, lightweight. Done.
Next ... aluminum, carbon fiber, or fiber glass trunk lid?[/QUOTE]
I'd be all over one of those aluminum spec C rear lids in a heartbeat.
Factory part, factory fit, lightweight. Done.
| CTKAG | 12-23-2004 08:47 AM |
I'd love a Spec C trunk as well, though I hear a good CF lid is only 5lbs! Still, $1,000 is a bunch to save 30#.
Anyone have an idea about the rear JDM bumper beam? How much lighter? Availability?
-Keith-
Anyone have an idea about the rear JDM bumper beam? How much lighter? Availability?
-Keith-
| BIGSKYWRX | 12-23-2004 09:43 AM |
[QUOTE=Uncle Scotty]I'd be all over one of those aluminum spec C rear lids in a heartbeat.
Factory part, factory fit, lightweight. Done.[/QUOTE]
Ditto :) ofcourse I have a wagon so that's not an option for me :rolleyes:
Factory part, factory fit, lightweight. Done.[/QUOTE]
Ditto :) ofcourse I have a wagon so that's not an option for me :rolleyes:
| bemani | 12-23-2004 01:24 PM |
But the rear gate has so much stuff that you can gut out!
| BIGSKYWRX | 12-23-2004 03:01 PM |
[QUOTE=bemani]But the rear gate has so much stuff that you can gut out![/QUOTE]
This true- if it wasn't my wife's daily driver :)
This true- if it wasn't my wife's daily driver :)
| burnera | 01-12-2005 05:55 PM |
i know i'm digging up an 'old' thread but:
Has anyone thought of lightening just the front of the car, to try and get the weight balance nuetral?
Would this help with handling? as far as roll, lift, dive, where the CG is?
Has anyone thought of lightening just the front of the car, to try and get the weight balance nuetral?
Would this help with handling? as far as roll, lift, dive, where the CG is?
| BIGSKYWRX | 01-12-2005 09:15 PM |
We'll never have a 50:50 car (shouldn't say never because someone w/ major alterations just might:)), but obvioulsy lightening up the front end will help. I noticed a improvement in handling by shedding ~ 40 lbs right off of the front- jdm bumper beam, lightweight battery.
It would shift the CG ever so slightly rearward by shaving weight off of the front.
Personally I think it's worth while losing weight at all ends, but weight lost up front cetainly helps.
Big Sky
It would shift the CG ever so slightly rearward by shaving weight off of the front.
Personally I think it's worth while losing weight at all ends, but weight lost up front cetainly helps.
Big Sky
| exhacker | 01-12-2005 11:45 PM |
[QUOTE=BIGSKYWRX]I noticed a improvement in handling by shedding ~ 40 lbs right off of the front- jdm bumper beam, lightweight battery.[/QUOTE]
Anyone have current links to good prices on the above? Any downsides to reliability in Alabama/Tennessee climates with a lightweight battery? I know the risks of a lightweight bumper thingy.
Anyone have current links to good prices on the above? Any downsides to reliability in Alabama/Tennessee climates with a lightweight battery? I know the risks of a lightweight bumper thingy.
| burnera | 01-13-2005 12:44 AM |
Lightwieght batteries risk: depends on what battery you get.
I know Hawker batteries are more than capable, at 70*F they can dump 1400amps. Worst case half that at 0*F, dunno what temp "CCA"s are measured at.
Unknown batteries: unknown results.
I know Hawker batteries are more than capable, at 70*F they can dump 1400amps. Worst case half that at 0*F, dunno what temp "CCA"s are measured at.
Unknown batteries: unknown results.
| quentinberg007 | 01-13-2005 01:08 AM |
[QUOTE=Wayne_Coots]Those of you with GC's should take a look at these two links. When he is finished it should be a nice weight reduction. Front carbon fenders 2lb's, carbon hood 6lb's, carbon side skirts, rear carbon fenders, and carbon front and rear bumper covers. making fenders and hoods that are that light will also help with weight distribution.
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22528&page=1[/url]
[url]http://www.aerosim-research.com/services_subaru.html[/url][/QUOTE]
Actually, the carbon rear fenders are mounted on top of the stock rear fenders, so you are actually adding weight there. Otherwise you are spot on.
~~Quentin
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22528&page=1[/url]
[url]http://www.aerosim-research.com/services_subaru.html[/url][/QUOTE]
Actually, the carbon rear fenders are mounted on top of the stock rear fenders, so you are actually adding weight there. Otherwise you are spot on.
~~Quentin
| STi-MAN | 01-13-2005 05:27 AM |
is the alt. supported by the a/c compressor? if so how did some of u remove the a/c compressor?
| BIGSKYWRX | 01-13-2005 09:50 AM |
[QUOTE=exhacker]Anyone have current links to good prices on the above? Any downsides to reliability in Alabama/Tennessee climates with a lightweight battery? I know the risks of a lightweight bumper thingy.[/QUOTE]
I'm using odyssey 680 w/ the metal jacket (if you leave it in the engine bay you want the metal jacket)- the lowest price I found was on ebay
here's one w/ metal jacket and terminals for $70
[url]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7946948995&category=6763[/url]
Mine is only a "summer" battery, we're @ -21 (F) this morning w/ a high expected of -7 :rolleyes:
gruppe-s or kingofimports for the beams
I'm using odyssey 680 w/ the metal jacket (if you leave it in the engine bay you want the metal jacket)- the lowest price I found was on ebay
here's one w/ metal jacket and terminals for $70
[url]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7946948995&category=6763[/url]
Mine is only a "summer" battery, we're @ -21 (F) this morning w/ a high expected of -7 :rolleyes:
gruppe-s or kingofimports for the beams
| Uncle Scotty | 01-13-2005 11:30 AM |
[QUOTE=BIGSKYWRX]I'm using odyssey 680 w/ the metal jacket (if you leave it in the engine bay you want the metal jacket)- the lowest price I found was on ebay
here's one w/ metal jacket and terminals for $70
[url]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7946948995&category=6763[/url]
Mine is only a "summer" battery, we're @ -21 (F) this morning w/ a high expected of -7 :rolleyes:
gruppe-s or kingofimports for the beams[/QUOTE]
My 680 has been in daily service since SEP03 and has worked in temps as low as 25�F. It cranks a bit slow, but I have found that turning the key to the 'ON' position for a couple secondsand letting the fuel pump pressure the system prior to starting the car yeilds almost instant starts.
Mike....it might be interesting to see if the 680 will work in those temps... :D
here's one w/ metal jacket and terminals for $70
[url]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7946948995&category=6763[/url]
Mine is only a "summer" battery, we're @ -21 (F) this morning w/ a high expected of -7 :rolleyes:
gruppe-s or kingofimports for the beams[/QUOTE]
My 680 has been in daily service since SEP03 and has worked in temps as low as 25�F. It cranks a bit slow, but I have found that turning the key to the 'ON' position for a couple secondsand letting the fuel pump pressure the system prior to starting the car yeilds almost instant starts.
Mike....it might be interesting to see if the 680 will work in those temps... :D
| BIGSKYWRX | 01-13-2005 01:08 PM |
[QUOTE=Uncle Scotty]My 680 has been in daily service since SEP03 and has worked in temps as low as 25�F. It cranks a bit slow, but I have found that turning the key to the 'ON' position for a couple secondsand letting the fuel pump pressure the system prior to starting the car yeilds almost instant starts.
Mike....it might be interesting to see if the 680 will work in those temps... :D[/QUOTE]
Scotty- my oe battery is barely keeping up w/ these temps :) (that's w/ the car plugged in-block heater!)- should be fun tonight they're calling for -32:eek:
SoCal is looking better all the time :cool:
Mike
Mike....it might be interesting to see if the 680 will work in those temps... :D[/QUOTE]
Scotty- my oe battery is barely keeping up w/ these temps :) (that's w/ the car plugged in-block heater!)- should be fun tonight they're calling for -32:eek:
SoCal is looking better all the time :cool:
Mike
| Uncle Scotty | 01-13-2005 03:05 PM |
[QUOTE=BIGSKYWRX]Scotty- my oe battery is barely keeping up w/ these temps :) (that's w/ the car plugged in-block heater!)- should be fun tonight they're calling for -32:eek:
SoCal is looking better all the time :cool:
Mike[/QUOTE]
:lol: ....shorts and tee shirt's here....yesterday was one of those 'perfect' days here....makes up for all those 95� & 90% August days.... :lol:
SoCal is looking better all the time :cool:
Mike[/QUOTE]
:lol: ....shorts and tee shirt's here....yesterday was one of those 'perfect' days here....makes up for all those 95� & 90% August days.... :lol:
| aspera | 01-17-2005 04:48 AM |
Thanks for the tip on letting the fuel pump run for a second. I'll have to try that. I also turn off the lights, radio, and heater fan before I attempt starting the car. Those are things that are usually left 'on' when I park the car.
I know the car is fuel injected, but I usually give it a little gas for when it starts to "take". If it doesn't start on the first crank...time to hunt for the jumper cables. :rolleyes: So far, I'm not having problems with single digit temps. It was less than +5*F yesterday and it started right up. :D
I know the car is fuel injected, but I usually give it a little gas for when it starts to "take". If it doesn't start on the first crank...time to hunt for the jumper cables. :rolleyes: So far, I'm not having problems with single digit temps. It was less than +5*F yesterday and it started right up. :D
| ToddStratton | 01-18-2005 02:50 PM |
For those of you who have done the following mods, I've got a few questions:
Removing AC: If you have the semi-auto climate control, did you just remove the A/C fuse or does the system get confused and try to still turn it on?
Replacing a front seat: Is there a good fix for the SRS warning light? If a resistor is all it takes, what did you use?
Over the next month I've got a Braille battery, JDM bumper beam and Evo seat coming. Between those items, removing the AC and taking out the rear seats/belts and a stripped trunk, I'll be finished with "phase 1" of weight reduction.
Thanks.
TRS
Removing AC: If you have the semi-auto climate control, did you just remove the A/C fuse or does the system get confused and try to still turn it on?
Replacing a front seat: Is there a good fix for the SRS warning light? If a resistor is all it takes, what did you use?
Over the next month I've got a Braille battery, JDM bumper beam and Evo seat coming. Between those items, removing the AC and taking out the rear seats/belts and a stripped trunk, I'll be finished with "phase 1" of weight reduction.
Thanks.
TRS
| BIGSKYWRX | 01-19-2005 09:29 AM |
good questions- bump
a little tidbit- weighed some oe WRX struts/springs/tops vs STi ones- always assumed the thicker piston in the STi would add a lb or two- wrong, they are actually lighter ~ 1 lb/corner in the front and ~ 1/4 lb/corner in the rear- I was pleasantly suprise :)
a little tidbit- weighed some oe WRX struts/springs/tops vs STi ones- always assumed the thicker piston in the STi would add a lb or two- wrong, they are actually lighter ~ 1 lb/corner in the front and ~ 1/4 lb/corner in the rear- I was pleasantly suprise :)
| abaxter34 | 01-19-2005 06:25 PM |
[QUOTE=ToddStratton]For those of you who have done the following mods, I've got a few questions:
Removing AC: If you have the semi-auto climate control, did you just remove the A/C fuse or does the system get confused and try to still turn it on?
Replacing a front seat: Is there a good fix for the SRS warning light? If a resistor is all it takes, what did you use?
Over the next month I've got a Braille battery, JDM bumper beam and Evo seat coming. Between those items, removing the AC and taking out the rear seats/belts and a stripped trunk, I'll be finished with "phase 1" of weight reduction.
Thanks.
TRS[/QUOTE]
can you keep us posted on how that braille battery does? ive read the testing procedure that was used on braille's website but have yet to here any feedback about the battery from daily users.
Removing AC: If you have the semi-auto climate control, did you just remove the A/C fuse or does the system get confused and try to still turn it on?
Replacing a front seat: Is there a good fix for the SRS warning light? If a resistor is all it takes, what did you use?
Over the next month I've got a Braille battery, JDM bumper beam and Evo seat coming. Between those items, removing the AC and taking out the rear seats/belts and a stripped trunk, I'll be finished with "phase 1" of weight reduction.
Thanks.
TRS[/QUOTE]
can you keep us posted on how that braille battery does? ive read the testing procedure that was used on braille's website but have yet to here any feedback about the battery from daily users.
| RokketRide | 01-19-2005 06:54 PM |
[QUOTE=BIGSKYWRX]good questions- bump
a little tidbit- weighed some oe WRX struts/springs/tops vs STi ones- always assumed the thicker piston in the STi would add a lb or two- wrong, they are actually lighter ~ 1 lb/corner in the front and ~ 1/4 lb/corner in the rear- I was pleasantly suprise :)[/QUOTE]
Ditto.
I weighed the complete assemblies just as they came off the car, and then the new ones before they went on. The new Prodrive Inverted Bilsteins with Group N tops weighed a little more than 1 lb less than the stockers. And since they are inverted, there is a reduction in unsprung weight as well.
a little tidbit- weighed some oe WRX struts/springs/tops vs STi ones- always assumed the thicker piston in the STi would add a lb or two- wrong, they are actually lighter ~ 1 lb/corner in the front and ~ 1/4 lb/corner in the rear- I was pleasantly suprise :)[/QUOTE]
Ditto.
I weighed the complete assemblies just as they came off the car, and then the new ones before they went on. The new Prodrive Inverted Bilsteins with Group N tops weighed a little more than 1 lb less than the stockers. And since they are inverted, there is a reduction in unsprung weight as well.
| Dan3381 | 01-20-2005 12:08 AM |
Ive got a connection for the braille battery. If any one needs one pm me.
| aspera | 01-22-2005 02:13 AM |
Old idea: lightweight shift knob (Duracon, delrin, plastic)
| exhacker | 01-22-2005 04:48 PM |
Can anyone link to a document on safely removing the factory 03 WRX security system?
| .RYAN | 03-12-2005 08:35 PM |
Any pics of 'daily driven gutted STi's'?
| lawn boy | 03-13-2005 11:46 AM |
I stripped my entire trunk and i really noticed the difference. I would say with the jack, spare, trunk carpet, and wood reinforcement thing I lost a good ~35 pounds
| RC0310 | 03-28-2005 03:28 AM |
[img]http://img227.exs.cx/img227/3448/slimscooby4xp.jpg[/img]
1310kg = 2888.05lbs :)
1310kg = 2888.05lbs :)
| BIGSKYWRX | 03-28-2005 09:13 AM |
^^ nice- that's a good drop! I need to weigh mine (04 wagon)- I've figured I've shed close to 200 lbs (a portion of that running 1/4 tank of gas vs full and emptying the trunk of spare/tools/etc)- should be ~ 2970ish
| RC0310 | 03-28-2005 03:12 PM |
keep it up.. :)
| bemani | 04-01-2005 12:24 PM |
I'm going to take off my brake pads' backing plates the next time I do brakes.
| BIGSKYWRX | 04-01-2005 02:57 PM |
[QUOTE=bemani]I'm going to take off my brake pads' backing plates the next time I do brakes.[/QUOTE]
I don't know- they may be advantageous as far as heat transfer is concerned. Race shops sell custom titanium pad backing plates just for that purpose.
I think ours were designed for "squeal" resistance, but can't help but think they may help w/ preventing heat transfer as well????
I don't know- they may be advantageous as far as heat transfer is concerned. Race shops sell custom titanium pad backing plates just for that purpose.
I think ours were designed for "squeal" resistance, but can't help but think they may help w/ preventing heat transfer as well????
| bemani | 04-01-2005 07:38 PM |
That would depend on the pad itself wouldn't it?
| cencalballer | 04-01-2005 08:24 PM |
i dint read the whole thread but plexiglass or lexan windows, swaybars if u only drag race, carpet, dynamat material in trunk and other places. different seats and theres a lot of other things u an do i just cant remeber alllof them right now.
| exhacker | 04-01-2005 09:24 PM |
[QUOTE=cencalballer]i dint read the whole thread but plexiglass or lexan windows, swaybars if u only drag race, carpet, dynamat material in trunk and other places. different seats and theres a lot of other things u an do i just cant remeber alllof them right now.[/QUOTE]
Well, it never hurts to shed unsprung weight first... there's your best way to improve handling. Trade everything under the chassis for stiff, lightweight components. Of course, for an Impreza you're talking $$$$.
Well, it never hurts to shed unsprung weight first... there's your best way to improve handling. Trade everything under the chassis for stiff, lightweight components. Of course, for an Impreza you're talking $$$$.
| BIGSKYWRX | 04-02-2005 11:39 AM |
[QUOTE=bemani]That would depend on the pad itself wouldn't it?[/QUOTE]
Not really- the shims should help as a thermal barrier regardless of pad choice. How beneficial this would be is purely speculative, but did find it interesting that there is a prety good market for pad backers just to provide that barrier. The barrier is more to prevent heat from the pads/rotors from going into the calipers- helping the seals and reducing fluid temp. Again how much the oe shims help in this matter (if any) is speculative..
Not really- the shims should help as a thermal barrier regardless of pad choice. How beneficial this would be is purely speculative, but did find it interesting that there is a prety good market for pad backers just to provide that barrier. The barrier is more to prevent heat from the pads/rotors from going into the calipers- helping the seals and reducing fluid temp. Again how much the oe shims help in this matter (if any) is speculative..
| exhacker | 04-03-2005 01:39 PM |
DBA has 2-piece rotors, for those of you ready to do a brake job. Get you some cryo-treated rotors & pads. I did, but I have the "Cobb Stage 2" kit, which aren't 2-piece :( The 2-piece rotors are "ultra-light" according to the site. I would be interested for someone to compare the weight of an un-used stock rotor with the rotor and hat from DBA. Shawn? Do you have the weight of yours?
[url]http://www.dba.com.au/[/url]
[url]http://www.dba.com.au/[/url]
| BIGSKYWRX | 04-03-2005 02:00 PM |
I have the DBA 5000 rotors (for the four pots- 5010 is for the oem 2pot sliders)- they are slightly oversized vs oem 295mm vs 294 and 25.4 vs 24mm, they still provide ~ 1.5 lbs/side weight reduction. The other benefit is temp reduction in the wheel bearing :) They are spendy, but when the discs go you just buy the outer disc and reuse the hats.
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