| B16A2NR | 12-26-2005 08:26 PM |
If you haven't already read this its a good source of basic info for weight reductions. Sorry if this is a repost. [url]http://www.importtuner.com/features/0407it_striptease/[/url]
| Uncle Scotty | 12-26-2005 08:36 PM |
[QUOTE=Phil Jr.]thats doesnt make it a wise invesment though, does it? ;)[/QUOTE]
...it does if it saves 40 pounds
...it does if it saves 40 pounds
| Phil Jr. | 12-26-2005 08:54 PM |
Oh I totally agree. But why not just buy a carbon fiber trunk which is cheaper/lighter? I guess some people like the OEM fitment.
I would really love to find out how much weight it actually saves. 40lbs is nothing to laugh at....might even be my next mod.... :D
I would really love to find out how much weight it actually saves. 40lbs is nothing to laugh at....might even be my next mod.... :D
| super-ru | 12-27-2005 01:44 PM |
Hey just found this thread, I've been treading through it for a while, but I have a very pointed questions. I am recently aware of how a car's polar inertia (resistance to spin around it's center point) affects it's handling. So what would be some effective mods to change the wrx sti's? I was thinking the bumper beams and anything you can relocate inside the cabin. thanks.
| BIGSKYWRX | 12-27-2005 02:50 PM |
While all weight reduction has it's advantages, some are better than others. Reduction of unsprung weight and reduction of rotational weight are both very advantageous. Reduction of weight in the front is benefical for our 60/40 cars. Weight lost up high is advantageous (or moving the same weight lower) as well.
Understeer can be dialed out by reducing weight in the front or relocating the same weight to the rearward (ie a battery to the trunk).
Understeer can be dialed out by reducing weight in the front or relocating the same weight to the rearward (ie a battery to the trunk).
| feelthebreak | 12-27-2005 07:05 PM |
i've heard of people using dryice to help remove the sound deadening material
| Uncle Scotty | 12-27-2005 07:29 PM |
[QUOTE=Phil Jr.]Oh I totally agree. But why not just buy a carbon fiber trunk which is cheaper/lighter? I guess some people like the OEM fitment.
I would really love to find out how much weight it actually saves. 40lbs is nothing to laugh at....might even be my next mod.... :D[/QUOTE]
...cf would NOT be lighter than aluminum.
a CF hood for a wrx is not lighter than the aluminum one which makes putting a cf hood on a wrx pointless...even rather dumb, really
I would really love to find out how much weight it actually saves. 40lbs is nothing to laugh at....might even be my next mod.... :D[/QUOTE]
...cf would NOT be lighter than aluminum.
a CF hood for a wrx is not lighter than the aluminum one which makes putting a cf hood on a wrx pointless...even rather dumb, really
| Phil Jr. | 12-27-2005 10:49 PM |
oh, really? Thats interesting. How is that???
| oldmansan | 12-27-2005 11:57 PM |
Yo
�
�
Scotty, BIGSKY, according to Myles the rear aluminum trunk saves 25-27 lbs. Not arguing with that, but I've lifted the stock trunk lid without a spoiler and the trunk "arms", and it wasn't heavy. I was seriously considering this trunk, as most of the carbon trunks have fitment issues and I think the aluminum is probably lighter, but the dollar to weight savings is pricey. I'll probably just do the rear bumper and cut my front bumper beam. Should save more weight overall without spending any money. I've also been looking at a carbon wing. Here's a link
[url]http://www.islandmotorsports.com/cgi-bin/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IMO&Product_Code=CFWING-WRX&Category_Code=CFP[/url]
They say it's full carbon.
San
[url]http://www.islandmotorsports.com/cgi-bin/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IMO&Product_Code=CFWING-WRX&Category_Code=CFP[/url]
They say it's full carbon.
San
| BIGSKYWRX | 12-28-2005 09:42 AM |
25 lbs sounds about right- I think that is close to the weight savings on the hood (vs a steel one). 25 lb drop w/ a oe piece is something I wouldn't hestitate on myself- ofcourse I sold my sedan and know own a wagon.
The shipping weight on the wing is high- might be due to size, more than weight.
The shipping weight on the wing is high- might be due to size, more than weight.
| aspera | 12-28-2005 10:56 PM |
[QUOTE=feelthebreak]i've heard of people using dryice to help remove the sound deadening material[/QUOTE]
Dry ice will only get you half way there. It works really well in the footwells IF IF IF you smash it up AND AND AND you let it sit there for quite a while. Don't be a dummy and hit it with a metal hammer. A rubber mallet is just fine. If the dry ice is working, then you don't even need a hammer. It should already be chipped, so you just need something to pry up the big chunks.
I suggest a 1 inch chisel and something to gently tap the handle. That will help you get the rest of the easy stuff.
Then you are left with the metal body hole plugs. You can either; A) leave them alone...covered with gooey tar, or B) chip away the tar and yellow body filler with the chisel. Once uncovered, they are bare metal and will eventually rust. :banana:
Anybody know what size rubber body plugs I need. :D My Toyota has rubber plugs for these. They are MUCH better, but I don't know it there is a weight savings.
As an aside, removeable rubber body plugs might be cool for a gutted autox car. A little extra airflow in the summertime is a good thing.
Dry ice will only get you half way there. It works really well in the footwells IF IF IF you smash it up AND AND AND you let it sit there for quite a while. Don't be a dummy and hit it with a metal hammer. A rubber mallet is just fine. If the dry ice is working, then you don't even need a hammer. It should already be chipped, so you just need something to pry up the big chunks.
I suggest a 1 inch chisel and something to gently tap the handle. That will help you get the rest of the easy stuff.
Then you are left with the metal body hole plugs. You can either; A) leave them alone...covered with gooey tar, or B) chip away the tar and yellow body filler with the chisel. Once uncovered, they are bare metal and will eventually rust. :banana:
Anybody know what size rubber body plugs I need. :D My Toyota has rubber plugs for these. They are MUCH better, but I don't know it there is a weight savings.
As an aside, removeable rubber body plugs might be cool for a gutted autox car. A little extra airflow in the summertime is a good thing.
| aspera | 12-29-2005 09:32 PM |
I'm finally getting around to the STi tranny mount. It looks like there is a little part labelled 'damper' on the center crossmember. Any reason why I shouldn't yank it?
| BIGSKYWRX | 12-29-2005 09:39 PM |
pic or go to subaruparts.com and post a diagram of what your talking about.
| Uncle Scotty | 12-29-2005 10:03 PM |
[QUOTE=BIGSKYWRX]pic or go to subaruparts.com and post a diagram of what your talking about.[/QUOTE]
[IMG]http://tinypic.com/jfemgx.jpg[/IMG]
.....LEAVE it......really
[IMG]http://tinypic.com/jfemgx.jpg[/IMG]
.....LEAVE it......really
| aspera | 12-29-2005 11:13 PM |
too late. Uh-oh. Do I need to put it back? What's the deal? Does it just make the car noisey? That sucker is pretty heavy.
Mine mounts from the top, like this:
[url]http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4190[/url]
Mine mounts from the top, like this:
[url]http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4190[/url]
| Uncle Scotty | 12-29-2005 11:30 PM |
[QUOTE=aspera]too late. Uh-oh. Do I need to put it back? What's the deal? Does it just make the car noisey? That sucker is pretty heavy.
Mine mounts from the top, like this:
[url]http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4190[/url][/QUOTE]
...if ya get any vibrations/noises at certain RPM's.....ya likely know why.
....don't dispose of it ;)
Mine mounts from the top, like this:
[url]http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4190[/url][/QUOTE]
...if ya get any vibrations/noises at certain RPM's.....ya likely know why.
....don't dispose of it ;)
| Davenow | 12-30-2005 12:01 AM |
I tossed mine with no issues.
| aspera | 12-30-2005 12:29 AM |
I just got back from a test drive. No problem.
EDIT: This is an easy weight reduction mod. Has somebody already put it in this thread? I mean, the thing is a chunk...is only there for NVH...and only two 10mm bolts are all that holds it on the car.
Good Easter egg!
EDIT: This is an easy weight reduction mod. Has somebody already put it in this thread? I mean, the thing is a chunk...is only there for NVH...and only two 10mm bolts are all that holds it on the car.
Good Easter egg!
| BIGSKYWRX | 12-30-2005 10:15 AM |
[QUOTE=aspera]I just got back from a test drive. No problem.
EDIT: This is an easy weight reduction mod. Has somebody already put it in this thread? I mean, the thing is a chunk...is only there for NVH...and only two 10mm bolts are all that holds it on the car.
Good Easter egg![/QUOTE]
put it on a scale :)
EDIT: This is an easy weight reduction mod. Has somebody already put it in this thread? I mean, the thing is a chunk...is only there for NVH...and only two 10mm bolts are all that holds it on the car.
Good Easter egg![/QUOTE]
put it on a scale :)
| 0BlueSTi4 | 12-30-2005 08:20 PM |
Weight reduction sounds great in theory but is all the money spent on lighter parts gonna really make that much difference? It might be easier to increase the power output of your engine with some minor bolt-ons, a lil more boosting and possibly some tuning. But than again, you go look at the Audio & Video forum and those guys are headed in a completely different direction adding pounds of amps and subs in perfectly built enclosures!
| Phil Jr. | 12-30-2005 08:25 PM |
I think a lot of simple and free weight reduction mods do add up. Think about it. A downpipe and accessport only add speed. Weight reduction improves acceleration, braking, and handling. And if you are able to shave 10-15 lbs of unsprung weight off the car with lighter wheels/tires and possibly two piece rotors you WILL feel the difference that makes. I guarantee.
| BIGSKYWRX | 12-30-2005 08:39 PM |
There are a lot of heavy, high horsepower cars out there- they can often be quite embarassed by a lighter weight, lower horsepower car. As Phil points out it's not just acceleration- braking and handling often play even a bigger role.
| aspera | 12-30-2005 10:51 PM |
[QUOTE=0BlueSTi4]Weight reduction sounds great in theory but is all the money spent on lighter parts gonna really make that much difference? It might be easier to increase the power output of your engine with some minor bolt-ons, a lil more boosting and possibly some tuning. [/QUOTE]
*IF* you're only talking about drag racing, then money is better spent on making power. BUT, you'd also do the weight reduction stuff in addition to making power if you wanted to win. You might even remove stuff like the power steering, entire HVAC, swaybars, etc. Those are all free, btw.
*IF* you're only talking about drag racing, then money is better spent on making power. BUT, you'd also do the weight reduction stuff in addition to making power if you wanted to win. You might even remove stuff like the power steering, entire HVAC, swaybars, etc. Those are all free, btw.
| aspera | 12-30-2005 10:55 PM |
[QUOTE=0BlueSTi4] But than again, you go look at the Audio & Video forum and those guys are headed in a completely different direction adding pounds of amps and subs in perfectly built enclosures![/QUOTE]
...and those guys are gay. Just kidding. Seriously, they're just harmless poseurs. I kid, I kid.
Okay, I'll try again. They are a bunch of tech saavy music lovers that don't want to impress anybody.
:lol:
...and those guys are gay. Just kidding. Seriously, they're just harmless poseurs. I kid, I kid.
Okay, I'll try again. They are a bunch of tech saavy music lovers that don't want to impress anybody.
:lol:
| scooby007 | 12-31-2005 04:59 PM |
i dont know if anyone has metioned it, because i really dont feel like scanning throught 400+ posts...... but you could also get plexiglass windows..... its a easy way to drop up around 50lbs...
| MattNJ2.8 | 12-31-2005 06:36 PM |
[QUOTE=interiot]:eek: Sweet. Good to know. That tames my lust for the Lotus Elise just a little. Which is good since the safety laws in the US make it impossible to import one at a resonable price at the moment, but freely let monstrous dangerous SUV's with high bumpers onto the street. :mad:[/QUOTE]
You can get one now!
You can get one now!
| The Beast | 12-31-2005 07:16 PM |
I've stripped the interior in my supra, and let me tell ya, if you live in a cold area, I definately wouldnt recommend you strip the front carpet/sound proofing. after driving half an hour in the rain, my feet are numb. I've directed the heater down to rightr in front of my pedals, but for some reason, it still dosent greatly improve the experiance, ant to mention, carpet looks better, unless you paint the floor, and maybe accent it with some grip tape. althopugh, I've noticed the rear kicks out A LOT easier that before.
| comradeboris | 12-31-2005 07:45 PM |
after reading all of this, what is the rule of thumb for reducing weight? IIRC isnt it something like 100lb lighter = ~a 10hp improvement?
| BIGSKYWRX | 12-31-2005 08:21 PM |
I've never seen a horsepower rule of thumb (there may be one however), but have read that a 100lb loss would equate to a tenth of second lower 1/4 mile time.
I'm not a drag racer so this only what I've read :)
I'm not a drag racer so this only what I've read :)
| DoctorNick | 12-31-2005 09:03 PM |
[img]http://homepage.mac.com/importedgrey/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2005-02-03%2010.06.32%20-0800/nothinginside.jpg[/img]
Light and ready to fight. Weight reduction FTW.
I heard of the dry ice thing, I just went with the simple scraper + hammer approach. Whatever didn't come off got a little mineral sprits and a bigger hammer.
Light and ready to fight. Weight reduction FTW.
I heard of the dry ice thing, I just went with the simple scraper + hammer approach. Whatever didn't come off got a little mineral sprits and a bigger hammer.
| TheLegacy | 12-31-2005 11:07 PM |
friend comes up to me and goes hey look at what i did to the evo... look cant see dark and tints... look harder
wow dammmn. He took EVERYTHING out
1 seat no spkrs, no door cards,
empty back there
thats weight reduction
however me.. i think of it... but nawww ive got alum skid plate, 6 spkrs, 2 amps, 2 subs, full interior...
but I its comfy and just to make up with it... just keep making it faster... Because of the skidplate ill go from 285whp to try get near 300WHP maybe. And if down the road try for 400-500WHP just to make up for weight! LOL
wow dammmn. He took EVERYTHING out
1 seat no spkrs, no door cards,
empty back there
thats weight reduction
however me.. i think of it... but nawww ive got alum skid plate, 6 spkrs, 2 amps, 2 subs, full interior...
but I its comfy and just to make up with it... just keep making it faster... Because of the skidplate ill go from 285whp to try get near 300WHP maybe. And if down the road try for 400-500WHP just to make up for weight! LOL
| aspera | 01-03-2006 03:48 AM |
[QUOTE=DoctorNick][img]http://homepage.mac.com/importedgrey/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2005-02-03%2010.06.32%20-0800/nothinginside.jpg[/img]
Light and ready to fight. Weight reduction FTW.
I heard of the dry ice thing, I just went with the simple scraper + hammer approach. Whatever didn't come off got a little mineral sprits and a bigger hammer.[/QUOTE]
Every time I see the spare tire well I want to cut it out.
:D
Is the little rubber plug in the spare tire well the same size as the metal plugs in the rest of the floor?
Light and ready to fight. Weight reduction FTW.
I heard of the dry ice thing, I just went with the simple scraper + hammer approach. Whatever didn't come off got a little mineral sprits and a bigger hammer.[/QUOTE]
Every time I see the spare tire well I want to cut it out.
:D
Is the little rubber plug in the spare tire well the same size as the metal plugs in the rest of the floor?
| Slamsitin | 01-06-2006 04:39 PM |
Not bad for a newbie
| DoctorNick | 01-06-2006 04:41 PM |
[QUOTE=aspera]Every time I see the spare tire well I want to cut it out.
:D
Is the little rubber plug in the spare tire well the same size as the metal plugs in the rest of the floor?[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I want to cut mine out too :lol: maybe ad a fuel cell while I am at it :banana:
Which metal plugs are you refering too? The "drain" plug at the bottom?
:D
Is the little rubber plug in the spare tire well the same size as the metal plugs in the rest of the floor?[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I want to cut mine out too :lol: maybe ad a fuel cell while I am at it :banana:
Which metal plugs are you refering too? The "drain" plug at the bottom?
| aspera | 01-07-2006 08:21 PM |
Yeah, the drain plugs.
I've seen the tub cut out on a few cars. Easystreet did it to the drag car and put a flat piece of metal there instead.
The beautiful, beautiful, beautiful Autosport Engineering (I think?) car had an even stranger mod. The tub was cut out and then welded back in about an inch lower. That let the spare tire (required for a rally car) sit an inch lower.
...which brings us to Jeeps. :lol: Jeeps sometimes use transfer case spacers to drop the T-case. That improves the driveshaft angle.
So, when I was under the WRX today installing some Kartboy bushings I noticed that the transmission crossmembers could be spaced if somebody wanted to. Same goes for the engine and it's crossmember. That would leave plenty of room for a one-piece driveshaft. But what else would it do? It would lower the heavy engine and transaxle. There ends up being more room for the front halfshafts, but the control arms would have to be addressed. (correct me if I'm wrong) The front part of the control arms are bolted to the front crossmember, while the rear part is bolted to the frame. A Whiteline ALK or similar and roll center adjusters might be needed.
Let's say the engine tranny is dropped an inch. The rest of the car stays closer to normal ride height, so tire rubbing isn't a problem. The only sacrifice is an inch of ground clearance...and we have skidplates for that.
The other thing is that it clears up an inch of room ON TOP OF the engine. That might be handy if you want to flip the intake manifold while keeping the A/C, or tilt the TMIC 45 degrees.
I've seen the tub cut out on a few cars. Easystreet did it to the drag car and put a flat piece of metal there instead.
The beautiful, beautiful, beautiful Autosport Engineering (I think?) car had an even stranger mod. The tub was cut out and then welded back in about an inch lower. That let the spare tire (required for a rally car) sit an inch lower.
...which brings us to Jeeps. :lol: Jeeps sometimes use transfer case spacers to drop the T-case. That improves the driveshaft angle.
So, when I was under the WRX today installing some Kartboy bushings I noticed that the transmission crossmembers could be spaced if somebody wanted to. Same goes for the engine and it's crossmember. That would leave plenty of room for a one-piece driveshaft. But what else would it do? It would lower the heavy engine and transaxle. There ends up being more room for the front halfshafts, but the control arms would have to be addressed. (correct me if I'm wrong) The front part of the control arms are bolted to the front crossmember, while the rear part is bolted to the frame. A Whiteline ALK or similar and roll center adjusters might be needed.
Let's say the engine tranny is dropped an inch. The rest of the car stays closer to normal ride height, so tire rubbing isn't a problem. The only sacrifice is an inch of ground clearance...and we have skidplates for that.
The other thing is that it clears up an inch of room ON TOP OF the engine. That might be handy if you want to flip the intake manifold while keeping the A/C, or tilt the TMIC 45 degrees.
| DoctorNick | 01-07-2006 08:42 PM |
Um yeah. Your crazy. :lol:
| aspera | 01-07-2006 08:54 PM |
[QUOTE=DoctorNick]Um yeah. Your crazy. :lol:[/QUOTE]
Thank you.
:D
That's my second favorite compliment.
Thank you.
:D
That's my second favorite compliment.
| specialev | 01-09-2006 09:44 PM |
I removed maybe 1-2 lbs of mud, dirt, gravel, and other debris from behind my front fender liners over my holiday break. Specifically, all that that had colllected right in front of the rockers.
My cars not any faster, more efficient. But every little bit, helps, right?
My cars not any faster, more efficient. But every little bit, helps, right?
| aspera | 01-30-2006 02:10 PM |
UPDATE: I got the rubber plugs today...not much of a mod, but I like it. Part number SU90321AA020 is what you need. That's the same rubber plug in the spare tire well in the trunk. It is marked "40P".
There are 10 metal plugs in the floor that are covered by caulk and gooey tar. Even so, they'll eventually rust. Pry them out with a screwdiver and replace with rubber plugs. Done.
If your daily driver is gutted, then pull the plugs in the summertime. Ten holes circulate the air really well when moving or parked. Crack your windows when parked for full effect. Air flows OUT when the A/C is turned on, so no worries there.
DON'T drive down a gravel road with the plugs pulled. :D
There are 10 metal plugs in the floor that are covered by caulk and gooey tar. Even so, they'll eventually rust. Pry them out with a screwdiver and replace with rubber plugs. Done.
If your daily driver is gutted, then pull the plugs in the summertime. Ten holes circulate the air really well when moving or parked. Crack your windows when parked for full effect. Air flows OUT when the A/C is turned on, so no worries there.
DON'T drive down a gravel road with the plugs pulled. :D
| CTKAG | 01-31-2006 09:00 AM |
Make sure you don't live in an area with little critters - leaving those plugs out sounds like an invitation to a mouse party!
-Keith-
-Keith-
| B16A2NR | 01-31-2006 11:18 AM |
[QUOTE=aspera]UPDATE: I got the rubber plugs today...not much of a mod, but I like it. Part number SU90321AA020 is what you need. That's the same rubber plug in the spare tire well in the trunk. It is marked "40P".
There are 10 metal plugs in the floor that are covered by caulk and gooey tar. Even so, they'll eventually rust. Pry them out with a screwdiver and replace with rubber plugs. Done.
DON'T drive down a gravel road with the plugs pulled. :D[/QUOTE]
How much is this a reduction in weight and how much did the 10 plugs cost you?
There are 10 metal plugs in the floor that are covered by caulk and gooey tar. Even so, they'll eventually rust. Pry them out with a screwdiver and replace with rubber plugs. Done.
DON'T drive down a gravel road with the plugs pulled. :D[/QUOTE]
How much is this a reduction in weight and how much did the 10 plugs cost you?
| lilsix | 01-31-2006 05:30 PM |
[QUOTE=CTKAG]Make sure you don't live in an area with little critters - leaving those plugs out sounds like an invitation to a mouse party!
-Keith-[/QUOTE]
Yeah and also could you imagine the exhaust smell you would get. ugh!!
-Keith-[/QUOTE]
Yeah and also could you imagine the exhaust smell you would get. ugh!!
| BIGSKYWRX | 03-12-2006 04:58 PM |
Anyone have the weight of the rear bumper beam on the WRX? Also would the "energy absorber" be reused to keep the shape of the rear bumper cover?
I know in Japan and else where - there is no rear bumper beam- not even a light one- none.
I know in Japan and else where - there is no rear bumper beam- not even a light one- none.
| aspera | 03-12-2006 05:35 PM |
Mine's been off for a long time but, from memory, I think it was 30#. I don't think I have any styrofoam left on the car either. Sorry I can't give you a better answer.
One thing that you'll want to do is pitch the metal bracket that the license plate bolts to. IIRC, I trimmed mine by cutting the extra metal away.
Are you going to remove all of the tow hooks and stuff?
One thing that you'll want to do is pitch the metal bracket that the license plate bolts to. IIRC, I trimmed mine by cutting the extra metal away.
Are you going to remove all of the tow hooks and stuff?
| S.G.D | 03-12-2006 06:13 PM |
speaking of bumper beams. just ordered a light weight front to match my light weight rear.
can't wait to get them both installed. the car is going to be so alive! turn in is going to be insane.
can't wait to get them both installed. the car is going to be so alive! turn in is going to be insane.
| BIGSKYWRX | 03-12-2006 07:00 PM |
You must have a GC or GF ^ :)
aspera- thanks- I'm assuming there must be some bracket or the like that helps keep the rear cover's shape?
I was thinking I might want to keep the toe hook on- not that I anticipate any off-course excursions :D
aspera- thanks- I'm assuming there must be some bracket or the like that helps keep the rear cover's shape?
I was thinking I might want to keep the toe hook on- not that I anticipate any off-course excursions :D
| S.G.D | 03-12-2006 07:20 PM |
i do indeed.
next up, light battery and hopefully an alu hood sometime.
next up, light battery and hopefully an alu hood sometime.
| BIGSKYWRX | 03-12-2006 07:37 PM |
Must be nice- weight starts lower and appears to be a little easier to shed as well :).
| oldmansan | 03-12-2006 08:14 PM |
[QUOTE=BIGSKYWRX]You must have a GC or GF ^ :)
I was thinking I might want to keep the toe hook on- not that I anticipate any off-course excursions :D[/QUOTE]
Nobody does. That said mine is gone.
San
I was thinking I might want to keep the toe hook on- not that I anticipate any off-course excursions :D[/QUOTE]
Nobody does. That said mine is gone.
San
| BIGSKYWRX | 03-12-2006 09:21 PM |
:) ^
I was looking at the oem subwoofer under the passenger seat, I think I may velcro the back (and forego the bracket) that way I can unclip it and pull it right out- don't know what it weighs (yet :D)
I was looking at the oem subwoofer under the passenger seat, I think I may velcro the back (and forego the bracket) that way I can unclip it and pull it right out- don't know what it weighs (yet :D)
| S.G.D | 03-12-2006 09:58 PM |
[QUOTE=BIGSKYWRX]Must be nice- weight starts lower and appears to be a little easier to shed as well :).[/QUOTE]
yah, best part about these cars :D
yah, best part about these cars :D
| aspera | 03-13-2006 06:57 AM |
[QUOTE=BIGSKYWRX]
aspera- thanks- I'm assuming there must be some bracket or the like that helps keep the rear cover's shape?
[/QUOTE]
Not really. IIRC, on our cars the bumper beam isn't really what supports the cover.
Also, I <gasp> added weight to the car today. Now I have a pretty Cusco bracket under my fuel filter. Hey Kartboy! Make these out of aluminum. ;)
Back to bumpers, did anyone ever find out if the aluminum Forester bumpers were bolt-in? Does the new STi have aluminum bumpers? Why the heck not?
aspera- thanks- I'm assuming there must be some bracket or the like that helps keep the rear cover's shape?
[/QUOTE]
Not really. IIRC, on our cars the bumper beam isn't really what supports the cover.
Also, I <gasp> added weight to the car today. Now I have a pretty Cusco bracket under my fuel filter. Hey Kartboy! Make these out of aluminum. ;)
Back to bumpers, did anyone ever find out if the aluminum Forester bumpers were bolt-in? Does the new STi have aluminum bumpers? Why the heck not?
| BIGSKYWRX | 03-13-2006 09:37 AM |
I'll have to pull the cover off and take a peak. Forester aluminum bumper? News to me. Front or rear?
I wonder what the chances of the lightweight rear GC/GF bumper beam working on our GD/GG's- I would prefer to lighten if possible vs outright remove :)
I wonder what the chances of the lightweight rear GC/GF bumper beam working on our GD/GG's- I would prefer to lighten if possible vs outright remove :)
| S.G.D | 03-13-2006 10:55 AM |
i can take some pics and measurements for you...
| Rizzo314 | 03-13-2006 12:34 PM |
Maybe I won't catch as much flack by posting in this thread compared to posting in the Gallery.
Just picked these up from Stephen at Innovative Automotive. I'm wanting to shed some weight off of the car, so I decided to swap out the rear window motors for cranks. It wasn't as easy as I had thought it was going to be, but once I got the first one done the second was easy. The color on the panels matches, but for some reason the flash made it look a lot lighter.
[img]http://ri22o.automotivelifestyle.com/wrx/interior/IMG_2996.JPG[/img]
[img]http://ri22o.automotivelifestyle.com/wrx/interior/IMG_2997.JPG[/img]
I have also removed all of the tar and sound deadening (even most of the stuff under the dash). Rear speakers and stock sub are gone, brackets under the rear seat, rear child brackets, rear center seat belt, installed STi rear seat (no pass-through), mat behind the rear seat, brackets under the dash, a/c removed, removing fog lights, misc brackets, and I have a wingless trunk. Going to get carbon buckets for the front, lightweight driveshaft, and who knows what else.
Just picked these up from Stephen at Innovative Automotive. I'm wanting to shed some weight off of the car, so I decided to swap out the rear window motors for cranks. It wasn't as easy as I had thought it was going to be, but once I got the first one done the second was easy. The color on the panels matches, but for some reason the flash made it look a lot lighter.
[img]http://ri22o.automotivelifestyle.com/wrx/interior/IMG_2996.JPG[/img]
[img]http://ri22o.automotivelifestyle.com/wrx/interior/IMG_2997.JPG[/img]
I have also removed all of the tar and sound deadening (even most of the stuff under the dash). Rear speakers and stock sub are gone, brackets under the rear seat, rear child brackets, rear center seat belt, installed STi rear seat (no pass-through), mat behind the rear seat, brackets under the dash, a/c removed, removing fog lights, misc brackets, and I have a wingless trunk. Going to get carbon buckets for the front, lightweight driveshaft, and who knows what else.
| BIGSKYWRX | 03-13-2006 03:02 PM |
[QUOTE=S.G.D]i can take some pics and measurements for you...[/QUOTE]
That would be super! If they bolted up the same- a litlle trimming here or there wouldn't bother me a bit :)
Thanks
No flack here for shedding weight :lol:
That would be super! If they bolted up the same- a litlle trimming here or there wouldn't bother me a bit :)
Thanks
No flack here for shedding weight :lol:
| S.G.D | 03-13-2006 05:14 PM |
alright, i'll do the back for you and the front will have to wait since i dont have it in my hands just yet :P
check back in a little bit.
check back in a little bit.
| aspera | 03-13-2006 08:06 PM |
[QUOTE=BIGSKYWRX]I'll have to pull the cover off and take a peak. Forester aluminum bumper? News to me. Front or rear?
I wonder what the chances of the lightweight rear GC/GF bumper beam working on our GD/GG's- I would prefer to lighten if possible vs outright remove :)[/QUOTE]
The front one was aluminum for sure...not sure about the rear one. This was on the last version of the Forester though. Subaru pointed it out as a selling point for the Forester, too.
From looking at the new sticky thread on weighs, it looks a C&R radiator and Spal fans might be one of the more worthwhile mods. IIRC, it drops 8 pounds off the nose.
That thread also shows the gas tank as being 47 pounds empty. Yikes! :eek: I'm trying to figure out what that includes and which tank. IIRC there are two sizes of tanks for the Impreza. Also, the Impreza uses a steel tank, while most cars have plastic tanks. What up wit dat?
I wish that I had 'FE' money to mount a fuel cell in the trunk, so then I could mount a remote mount turbo in the empty space where the stock gas tank was.
I wonder what the chances of the lightweight rear GC/GF bumper beam working on our GD/GG's- I would prefer to lighten if possible vs outright remove :)[/QUOTE]
The front one was aluminum for sure...not sure about the rear one. This was on the last version of the Forester though. Subaru pointed it out as a selling point for the Forester, too.
From looking at the new sticky thread on weighs, it looks a C&R radiator and Spal fans might be one of the more worthwhile mods. IIRC, it drops 8 pounds off the nose.
That thread also shows the gas tank as being 47 pounds empty. Yikes! :eek: I'm trying to figure out what that includes and which tank. IIRC there are two sizes of tanks for the Impreza. Also, the Impreza uses a steel tank, while most cars have plastic tanks. What up wit dat?
I wish that I had 'FE' money to mount a fuel cell in the trunk, so then I could mount a remote mount turbo in the empty space where the stock gas tank was.
| Rizzo314 | 03-13-2006 08:15 PM |
[QUOTE=aspera]The front one was aluminum for sure...not sure about the rear one. This was on the last version of the Forester though. Subaru pointed it out as a selling point for the Forester, too.
From looking at the new sticky thread on weighs, it looks a C&R radiator and Spal fans might be one of the more worthwhile mods. IIRC, it drops 8 pounds off the nose.
That thread also shows the gas tank as being 47 pounds empty. Yikes! :eek: I'm trying to figure out what that includes and which tank. IIRC there are two sizes of tanks for the Impreza. Also, the Impreza uses a steel tank, while most cars have plastic tanks. What up wit dat?
I wish that I had 'FE' money to mount a fuel cell in the trunk, so then I could mount a remote mount turbo in the empty space where the stock gas tank was.[/QUOTE]
I have an aluminum C&R radiator with fans that I don't need any more, if you're interested.
From looking at the new sticky thread on weighs, it looks a C&R radiator and Spal fans might be one of the more worthwhile mods. IIRC, it drops 8 pounds off the nose.
That thread also shows the gas tank as being 47 pounds empty. Yikes! :eek: I'm trying to figure out what that includes and which tank. IIRC there are two sizes of tanks for the Impreza. Also, the Impreza uses a steel tank, while most cars have plastic tanks. What up wit dat?
I wish that I had 'FE' money to mount a fuel cell in the trunk, so then I could mount a remote mount turbo in the empty space where the stock gas tank was.[/QUOTE]
I have an aluminum C&R radiator with fans that I don't need any more, if you're interested.
| BIGSKYWRX | 03-13-2006 08:41 PM |
I wish I had taken some weights when I had my aluminum radiator in my sedan- it was larger capacity (37mm vs 22mm- AWR), but just going by memory I thought it weighed about the same as the stocker- the stocker was pretty light (plastic).
Is the C&R the same capacity as the oe one or larger?
SGD- thanks :)
Is the C&R the same capacity as the oe one or larger?
SGD- thanks :)
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