| bigjon | 08-16-2005 03:29 AM |
Lube every bushing, center and end link, on every surface that contacts something else. It's the only way to insure no squeaks. I use marine grease (the blue-green stuff) since it wll resist washing away from road spray. You can find it at any boat supply store.
You do not have to see visible compression in the end link bushings for them to work properly. Visibly compressing them can lead to compression set and early failure. The torque needed is very low.
That being said, there may be times when you want to play with tightening one side harder then the other to preload the bar. This is done sometimes in stock classes to shift the corner weights when no other method is available.
You do not have to see visible compression in the end link bushings for them to work properly. Visibly compressing them can lead to compression set and early failure. The torque needed is very low.
That being said, there may be times when you want to play with tightening one side harder then the other to preload the bar. This is done sometimes in stock classes to shift the corner weights when no other method is available.
| SloRice | 08-16-2005 09:44 AM |
Woot Woot, I installed my FSB last night. Not to terribly bad. Had to use the jack to compress all the bushings. I also only used 2 of the 4 supplied washers. I took it out for a quick test drive on street tires and the front end of the car is noticeably tighter and more responsive. I came in pretty aggressive into the entrance of my girlfriends apt. to see how it would react and the car plowed a little but I also wasn't taking a very good line. So i'll try again today. :lol:
One question I have is the position of the endlink. In the attached picture I stole from Joel, the suspension looks unloaded and the endlinks go straight up and down - mine does this also. But when the car is on the ground, my bolt is at an angle shown by the yellow line. Any reason for this? Is the car to low? I think I'm sitting at ~13.75" from wheel center to the fender. I'll see if I can get a picture today.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/SloRice/FrontSwayBar2.jpg[/IMG]
One question I have is the position of the endlink. In the attached picture I stole from Joel, the suspension looks unloaded and the endlinks go straight up and down - mine does this also. But when the car is on the ground, my bolt is at an angle shown by the yellow line. Any reason for this? Is the car to low? I think I'm sitting at ~13.75" from wheel center to the fender. I'll see if I can get a picture today.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/SloRice/FrontSwayBar2.jpg[/IMG]
| dbenz | 08-17-2005 01:45 PM |
OK, I scrolled through the thread and didn't see anyone who has got the bar installed on anything but an STI. Has anybody got one on an 02-04 WRX yet? I think the fitment should be the same, but aparently nobody has officially tested it yet. Just want to make sure before I order one.
Thanks
Thanks
| AUTOwrXER | 08-17-2005 04:52 PM |
SloRice - It's normal for the bolt to be at that angle when the car is on the ground.
| SloRice | 08-18-2005 08:49 AM |
Joel - I would think that would put quite a bit of side load force on the bolt and eventually shear it off??
| AUTOwrXER | 08-18-2005 10:16 AM |
I thought about that when we were testing the prototypes for fitment. The issue is that if the bolt was straight when the car was on the ground, you would never be able to install the bar with the car in the air. Obviously there is some shear stress on the bolt, but given the size of it I don't think it will be a problem.
| Calamity Jesus | 08-18-2005 11:11 AM |
Who installs a bar in the air? You're supposed to install them while the suspension is compressed to avoid preload or binding, are you not? Not only does it make installing the bar tons easier, it keeps the above situation from occuring. Nevermind the static position when the car is at rest, what happens when the front axle hits a bump?
| AUTOwrXER | 08-18-2005 02:03 PM |
I did mine on a lift. It beats laying on your back.
Not sure I understand your question about hitting a bump...
Not sure I understand your question about hitting a bump...
| Smittys_STi | 08-18-2005 03:09 PM |
[QUOTE=AUTOwrXER]I did mine on a lift. It beats laying on your back.
Not sure I understand your question about hitting a bump...[/QUOTE]
<---- bar installed in the air, endlinks installed with suspension compressed
Not sure I understand your question about hitting a bump...[/QUOTE]
<---- bar installed in the air, endlinks installed with suspension compressed
| AUTOwrXER | 08-18-2005 03:37 PM |
[QUOTE=Beaverboy]Who installs a bar in the air? You're supposed to install them while the suspension is compressed to avoid preload or binding, are you not? Not only does it make installing the bar tons easier, it keeps the above situation from occuring. Nevermind the static position when the car is at rest, what happens when the front axle hits a bump?[/QUOTE]
I think I just realized what you were talking about with regards to preload. Preload would only happen if the wheels were at a different position relative to each other. If the car has both front wheels on the ground, or if both front wheels are in the air, the bar will not be under preload. Now if you only raised half the car (as in changing wheels), you would encounter loading on the bar.
I think I just realized what you were talking about with regards to preload. Preload would only happen if the wheels were at a different position relative to each other. If the car has both front wheels on the ground, or if both front wheels are in the air, the bar will not be under preload. Now if you only raised half the car (as in changing wheels), you would encounter loading on the bar.
| ericdc | 08-22-2005 02:25 PM |
Got mine installed. It was squeaking like crazy so I took it back down liberally coated it with dilectric grease. After about 50 miles it got noisy again. It is fine on the highway but pulling into the driveway, over speed bumps, or sudden acceleration where weight shifts it makes a noticable noise. Oh, and the end links are plenty tight. The noise is from the chassis mounts.
Seems pretty nice on course though. I was able to take some sections of the course this weekend faster than anything other than a few BM cars and I am on Falkens :). Pretty impressive overall.
Seems pretty nice on course though. I was able to take some sections of the course this weekend faster than anything other than a few BM cars and I am on Falkens :). Pretty impressive overall.
| BlueSTI4Me | 08-22-2005 07:56 PM |
[QUOTE=ericdc]Got mine installed. It was squeaking like crazy so I took it back down liberally coated it with dilectric grease. After about 50 miles it got noisy again. It is fine on the highway but pulling into the driveway, over speed bumps, or sudden acceleration where weight shifts it makes a noticable noise. Oh, and the end links are plenty tight. The noise is from the chassis mounts.
Seems pretty nice on course though. I was able to take some sections of the course this weekend faster than anything other than a few BM cars and I am on Falkens :). Pretty impressive overall.[/QUOTE]
Dielectric grease is not good for a strut bar bushing, not enough lubricity. Try marine grease as previously mentioned or something with graphite in it.
We used bicycle grease which is water repellant and really slick. Dielectric grease is good to insulate components that conduct electricity and nothing else.
Blue
Seems pretty nice on course though. I was able to take some sections of the course this weekend faster than anything other than a few BM cars and I am on Falkens :). Pretty impressive overall.[/QUOTE]
Dielectric grease is not good for a strut bar bushing, not enough lubricity. Try marine grease as previously mentioned or something with graphite in it.
We used bicycle grease which is water repellant and really slick. Dielectric grease is good to insulate components that conduct electricity and nothing else.
Blue
| ghostshadow | 08-22-2005 10:39 PM |
for you guys running this bar in AS, how're you getting your car to rotate with this bar? overall grip and turn-in are awesome.. definitely faster. i'm just getting a little more push than i'd like. ran 65# rear tire pressures on my victo's which helped somewhat..
i guess toe out is my only option- running 0 toe all around right now.
i guess toe out is my only option- running 0 toe all around right now.
| bigjon | 08-23-2005 01:55 AM |
More toe out will get better turning. 0 is safe for the streets, but probably not "lively" enough for autox.
| Virgil | 08-23-2005 08:36 AM |
[QUOTE=ghostshadow]for you guys running this bar in AS, how're you getting your car to rotate with this bar? overall grip and turn-in are awesome.. definitely faster. i'm just getting a little more push than i'd like. ran 65# rear tire pressures on my victo's which helped somewhat..
i guess toe out is my only option- running 0 toe all around right now.[/QUOTE]
Slow down a little more before the turn then throttle earlier and harder. Instant rotation.
i guess toe out is my only option- running 0 toe all around right now.[/QUOTE]
Slow down a little more before the turn then throttle earlier and harder. Instant rotation.
| Smittys_STi | 08-23-2005 09:59 AM |
[QUOTE=Virgil]Slow down a little more before the turn then throttle earlier and harder. Instant rotation.[/QUOTE]
I would tend to agree. It makes the car a bit more of a "slow in-fast out" type car.
Also, are you a left foot braker? In the tighter corners, trail braking has been a decent way to get more rotation for me.
As a reference, my current alignment is also 0 toe all around since the car is still my daily driver.
I would tend to agree. It makes the car a bit more of a "slow in-fast out" type car.
Also, are you a left foot braker? In the tighter corners, trail braking has been a decent way to get more rotation for me.
As a reference, my current alignment is also 0 toe all around since the car is still my daily driver.
| Corn-Picker | 08-23-2005 10:20 AM |
Does ayone change their toe for auto-x events? Could you do something as simple as turning each tie rod x number of times before the event, and x number of times in the opposite direction after you get back home, to take the car back to zero toe? I don't know how much hysteresis there are in tie rods, so this may result in toe being way off.
We have trick electronic differentials on our car, what Subaru should add are some servos coupled to the tie rod ends so that we can change toe from inside the cabin :)
We have trick electronic differentials on our car, what Subaru should add are some servos coupled to the tie rod ends so that we can change toe from inside the cabin :)
| sciolist | 08-23-2005 11:07 AM |
I really don't think it's a big deal to run a little toe on the street. My fronts have 1/8", and that is perfectly managable. We are a stud-legal ski town, so there are some rutted areas of pavement where the car trams pretty hard, but other than that it's just fine.
For my time and money, it's easier to just swap settings at the end of the season. Doing so for every event is kind of crazy, IMO.
For my time and money, it's easier to just swap settings at the end of the season. Doing so for every event is kind of crazy, IMO.
| bigjon | 08-23-2005 01:22 PM |
You don't way what class you are in, but in a class with camber plates you can maximize the toe out at maximum camber. Then setting them to a lesser camber will also reduce the toe out for the street. Find your settings on an alignment rack.
| ghostshadow | 08-23-2005 02:55 PM |
[QUOTE=Smittys_STi]I would tend to agree. It makes the car a bit more of a "slow in-fast out" type car.
Also, are you a left foot braker? In the tighter corners, trail braking has been a decent way to get more rotation for me.
As a reference, my current alignment is also 0 toe all around since the car is still my daily driver.[/QUOTE]
yeah, i do set up for slow in fast out- the sti has some serious juice on corner exit. i love it. and yes, i am a left foot braker- i have no problem getting the car to rotate in sweepers either lifting or trail braking. it's where i can't trail brake or lift that i'm experiencing push. how many of you are in AS running this bar? feeling the same thing?
i have to try toe-out.. driving technique and tire pressures can only do so much.
on a side note, tire wear blows in our cars for AS... wish we could get the same neg camber up front as those evo's, and have the 'right' camber curve!
Also, are you a left foot braker? In the tighter corners, trail braking has been a decent way to get more rotation for me.
As a reference, my current alignment is also 0 toe all around since the car is still my daily driver.[/QUOTE]
yeah, i do set up for slow in fast out- the sti has some serious juice on corner exit. i love it. and yes, i am a left foot braker- i have no problem getting the car to rotate in sweepers either lifting or trail braking. it's where i can't trail brake or lift that i'm experiencing push. how many of you are in AS running this bar? feeling the same thing?
i have to try toe-out.. driving technique and tire pressures can only do so much.
on a side note, tire wear blows in our cars for AS... wish we could get the same neg camber up front as those evo's, and have the 'right' camber curve!
| crystalhelix | 08-23-2005 03:12 PM |
I picked up one of these bars too. Putting it on tonight as last night I had power problems in the garage. From what Sam tells me it should be nothing but sweet.
J
J
| Corn-Picker | 08-23-2005 03:27 PM |
[QUOTE=ghostshadow]yeah, i do set up for slow in fast out- the sti has some serious juice on corner exit. i love it. and yes, i am a left foot braker- i have no problem getting the car to rotate in sweepers either lifting or trail braking. it's where i can't trail brake or lift that i'm experiencing push. how many of you are in AS running this bar? feeling the same thing?
i have to try toe-out.. driving technique and tire pressures can only do so much.
on a side note, tire wear blows in our cars for AS... wish we could get the same neg camber up front as those evo's, and have the 'right' camber curve![/QUOTE]
It'd be nice if Subarus allowed for more negative camber out of the box. The outside of my RE070s wear even at max negative camber -- hopefully the new sway bar will help this by preventing some camber loss under cornering. I would also like to see threaded rear suspension linkages from the factory, so we could adjust rear toe and camber to our hearts delight. Maybe Subaru will add it on the redesigned models, here's hoping...
i have to try toe-out.. driving technique and tire pressures can only do so much.
on a side note, tire wear blows in our cars for AS... wish we could get the same neg camber up front as those evo's, and have the 'right' camber curve![/QUOTE]
It'd be nice if Subarus allowed for more negative camber out of the box. The outside of my RE070s wear even at max negative camber -- hopefully the new sway bar will help this by preventing some camber loss under cornering. I would also like to see threaded rear suspension linkages from the factory, so we could adjust rear toe and camber to our hearts delight. Maybe Subaru will add it on the redesigned models, here's hoping...
| Smittys_STi | 08-23-2005 03:40 PM |
[QUOTE=ghostshadow]how many of you are in AS running this bar? feeling the same thing?
on a side note, tire wear blows in our cars for AS... wish we could get the same neg camber up front as those evo's, and have the 'right' camber curve![/QUOTE]
I'm an AS car, FWIW. I guess since I've never felt the car totally neutral I must be getting used to that pesky understeer ;). It's also going to be pretty surface/speed dependant .... that may be another factor playing in here.
I'd agree on the tire wear ... my Hoosiers got destroyed on the outside corners. :rolleyes:
on a side note, tire wear blows in our cars for AS... wish we could get the same neg camber up front as those evo's, and have the 'right' camber curve![/QUOTE]
I'm an AS car, FWIW. I guess since I've never felt the car totally neutral I must be getting used to that pesky understeer ;). It's also going to be pretty surface/speed dependant .... that may be another factor playing in here.
I'd agree on the tire wear ... my Hoosiers got destroyed on the outside corners. :rolleyes:
| crystalhelix | 08-23-2005 03:59 PM |
[QUOTE=Corn-Picker]It'd be nice if Subarus allowed for more negative camber out of the box. The outside of my RE070s wear even at max negative camber -- hopefully the new sway bar will help this by preventing some camber loss under cornering. I would also like to see threaded rear suspension linkages from the factory, so we could adjust rear toe and camber to our hearts delight. Maybe Subaru will add it on the redesigned models, here's hoping...[/QUOTE]
You can adjust rear toe. The adjustment is on the innner side of the rear most trailing arms. There is an offset bolt in there just like for adjusting the camber in the front.
J
You can adjust rear toe. The adjustment is on the innner side of the rear most trailing arms. There is an offset bolt in there just like for adjusting the camber in the front.
J
| crystalhelix | 08-23-2005 10:23 PM |
Ok, tried to install the Strano bar tonight. I have a few questions and issues.
2004 STi
Issue with steering rack frame section. I had to slot the edge of the bracket to clear the frame. (Edit: This worked out fine)
[IMG]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/DSCF2667.JPG[/IMG]
Secondly. The brackets come awfully close to the tie-rods and could possibly make contact during AutoX.
I want to cut the end off the bracket. What does everyone think?
(Edit: This worked out fine)
[IMG]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/DSCF2665.JPG[/IMG]
Thanks,
Justin
Also, I think I may make some better instructions for this thing with a proper diagram/stuff.
2004 STi
Issue with steering rack frame section. I had to slot the edge of the bracket to clear the frame. (Edit: This worked out fine)
[IMG]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/DSCF2667.JPG[/IMG]
Secondly. The brackets come awfully close to the tie-rods and could possibly make contact during AutoX.
I want to cut the end off the bracket. What does everyone think?
(Edit: This worked out fine)
[IMG]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/DSCF2665.JPG[/IMG]
Thanks,
Justin
Also, I think I may make some better instructions for this thing with a proper diagram/stuff.
| SloRice | 08-23-2005 11:12 PM |
Are the brackets on the correct way? Mine didn't have any problems like that.
| crystalhelix | 08-23-2005 11:38 PM |
[QUOTE=SloRice]Are the brackets on the correct way? Mine didn't have any problems like that.[/QUOTE]
Yep. I tried a swap and they only fit one way due to the tab being bent on one end of the bracket.
J
Yep. I tried a swap and they only fit one way due to the tab being bent on one end of the bracket.
J
| AtomicRacer | 08-24-2005 12:53 PM |
How much does the new bar weigh? Just the bar, not the endlinks.
-Paul
-Paul
| funsti | 08-24-2005 01:03 PM |
[QUOTE=AtomicRacer]How much does the new bar weigh? Just the bar, not the endlinks.
-Paul[/QUOTE]
I don't know if Joel is comparing stock + mounting hardware to this new bar + its mounting hardware but here is the post where he says it weighs about 1 lb more than the stock bar :D:
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10547880&postcount=183[/url]
-Paul[/QUOTE]
I don't know if Joel is comparing stock + mounting hardware to this new bar + its mounting hardware but here is the post where he says it weighs about 1 lb more than the stock bar :D:
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10547880&postcount=183[/url]
| engineerx | 08-24-2005 01:17 PM |
Yep - looks too close
I had same problem - ended up trimming edge and bending beracket's edge (about 5mm of the edge) I've done about 3 full day track events and bracket has performed w/o problems.
I'm not using the same bar as you - but I'm using a similar bracket since I changed the bushings to Energy Suspension brand and those required larger brackets.
You can barely see the edge of the bracket bent downwards to make more space between it and the steering tie-rod
[IMG]http://subaru-wrx-sti.com/web/MODS/vbrace3.jpg[/IMG]
I had same problem - ended up trimming edge and bending beracket's edge (about 5mm of the edge) I've done about 3 full day track events and bracket has performed w/o problems.
I'm not using the same bar as you - but I'm using a similar bracket since I changed the bushings to Energy Suspension brand and those required larger brackets.
You can barely see the edge of the bracket bent downwards to make more space between it and the steering tie-rod
[IMG]http://subaru-wrx-sti.com/web/MODS/vbrace3.jpg[/IMG]
| crystalhelix | 08-24-2005 01:28 PM |
[QUOTE=engineerx]Yep - looks too close
I had same problem - ended up trimming edge and bending beracket's edge (about 5mm of the edge) I've done about 3 full day track events and bracket has performed w/o problems.
I'm not using the same bar as you - but I'm using a similar bracket since I changed the bushings to Energy Suspension brand and those required larger brackets.
You can barely see the edge of the bracket bent downwards to make more space between it and the steering tie-rod
[/QUOTE]
Looks Like I will be griding and ganking tonight, lol.
I had same problem - ended up trimming edge and bending beracket's edge (about 5mm of the edge) I've done about 3 full day track events and bracket has performed w/o problems.
I'm not using the same bar as you - but I'm using a similar bracket since I changed the bushings to Energy Suspension brand and those required larger brackets.
You can barely see the edge of the bracket bent downwards to make more space between it and the steering tie-rod
[/QUOTE]
Looks Like I will be griding and ganking tonight, lol.
| BlueSTI4Me | 08-24-2005 09:10 PM |
[QUOTE=SloRice]Are the brackets on the correct way? Mine didn't have any problems like that.[/QUOTE]
Had a chance to install the commercial bar and the brackets supplied were not trimmed like the prototype brackets. Had to trim the square corners (eight on two brackets) to clear the tie rod flange and the center crossmember. It appears the manufacturer missed a trimming step on the brackets as the prototype brackets were trimmed not square. If Strano doesn't know someone should advise him. (thought a certain party would provide feedback).
When I get time I was gonna post revised instructions. So much to do, so little time.
Blue
Had a chance to install the commercial bar and the brackets supplied were not trimmed like the prototype brackets. Had to trim the square corners (eight on two brackets) to clear the tie rod flange and the center crossmember. It appears the manufacturer missed a trimming step on the brackets as the prototype brackets were trimmed not square. If Strano doesn't know someone should advise him. (thought a certain party would provide feedback).
When I get time I was gonna post revised instructions. So much to do, so little time.
Blue
| AUTOwrXER | 08-24-2005 09:49 PM |
I didn't have any issues with my brackets. I guess it is related to the trimming issue. I'll mention it to Sam. I know he has been checking in on this thread as well. He tried to register for the site and got an odd error or I'm sure he'd respond himself.
I weighed the stock bar with stock hardware against the Strano bar with Strano hardware and got the 1 lb difference. It was a high-capacity scale that only measured in 1/4 lb increments, so told hold me to a 16oz. difference exactly...
I weighed the stock bar with stock hardware against the Strano bar with Strano hardware and got the 1 lb difference. It was a high-capacity scale that only measured in 1/4 lb increments, so told hold me to a 16oz. difference exactly...
| crystalhelix | 08-25-2005 12:00 AM |
Sam wants everyone to know that the bar weighs 9lbs.
Thanks,
Justin
Thanks,
Justin
| crystalhelix | 08-25-2005 08:53 AM |
I cut the end off the brackets and got everthing on. For the endlinks I tightened the bolt until there were 5 threads showing for the most part.
Haven't driven the car because I am swapping springs, got the front springs done last night and will do the back springs tonight. I'll comment on the bar after I drive with it.
J
Haven't driven the car because I am swapping springs, got the front springs done last night and will do the back springs tonight. I'll comment on the bar after I drive with it.
J
| Smittys_STi | 08-25-2005 09:44 AM |
[QUOTE=BlueSTI4Me]Had a chance to install the commercial bar and the brackets supplied were not trimmed like the prototype brackets. Had to trim the square corners (eight on two brackets) to clear the tie rod flange and the center crossmember. It appears the manufacturer missed a trimming step on the brackets as the prototype brackets were trimmed not square. If Strano doesn't know someone should advise him. (thought a certain party would provide feedback).
When I get time I was gonna post revised instructions. So much to do, so little time.
Blue[/QUOTE]
Planned on e-mailing Sam about that, but I've been home from work sick the past few days.
Joel, if you can pass that on I'd appreciate it, thanks. The step that was missed was trimming the corners of the square brackets that hold the bushings (diagonal cuts).
-Smitty
When I get time I was gonna post revised instructions. So much to do, so little time.
Blue[/QUOTE]
Planned on e-mailing Sam about that, but I've been home from work sick the past few days.
Joel, if you can pass that on I'd appreciate it, thanks. The step that was missed was trimming the corners of the square brackets that hold the bushings (diagonal cuts).
-Smitty
| AUTOwrXER | 08-25-2005 09:46 AM |
Got it. I emailed Sam and Addco last night. No response yet, but I'll post when I hear back (unless it's after 5:00 PM today, when I'll be computer-free until Monday).
| crystalhelix | 08-25-2005 05:08 PM |
Rocked out some new instructions so you can clearly see how everything goes together.
Justin
[url]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/AddcoSubaruBarInstructions.jpg[/url]
[url]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/ADDCOBAR.jpg[/url]
Sorry 56k
[IMG]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/AddcoSubaruBarInstructions.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/Render.jpg[/IMG]
EDIT: I realize these links are broken, I'll try to fix them here in the near future.
Justin
[url]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/AddcoSubaruBarInstructions.jpg[/url]
[url]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/ADDCOBAR.jpg[/url]
Sorry 56k
[IMG]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/AddcoSubaruBarInstructions.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://spryracing.com/Technical/addcobar/Render.jpg[/IMG]
EDIT: I realize these links are broken, I'll try to fix them here in the near future.
| ericdc | 08-25-2005 06:23 PM |
^^^^^^ What a show off :)
| SloRice | 08-25-2005 09:08 PM |
someone was bored at work today :lol:
| crystalhelix | 08-25-2005 09:19 PM |
[QUOTE=SloRice]someone was bored at work today :lol:[/QUOTE]
It pays to sit in on user trials with your lap-top because someone from engineering has to be ther.......what? A little overboard? ;)
It pays to sit in on user trials with your lap-top because someone from engineering has to be ther.......what? A little overboard? ;)
| Zoinks | 08-25-2005 09:33 PM |
Fitment aside, would a bar of this size still be effective for a WRX? I know the same camber issues exist, but I didn't know if there were any other factors that might make a difference between the two models. What about STU/STX, where higher static negative camber can be achieved - still good then?
I knew my 22mm Cusco wasn't the biggest, but I thought it still qualified as a "big front swaybar". I had no idea that I was off 10mm. :)
I knew my 22mm Cusco wasn't the biggest, but I thought it still qualified as a "big front swaybar". I had no idea that I was off 10mm. :)
| crystalhelix | 08-25-2005 09:47 PM |
[QUOTE=Zoinks]Fitment aside, would a bar of this size still be effective for a WRX? I know the same camber issues exist, but I didn't know if there were any other factors that might make a difference between the two models. What about STU/STX, where higher static negative camber can be achieved - still good then?
I knew my 22mm Cusco wasn't the biggest, but I thought it still qualified as a "big front swaybar". I had no idea that I was off 10mm. :)[/QUOTE]
We get camber plates in ESP as well. I would say it would benefit as well. I am not sure due to the fact your tires aren't pushing back as much as R comps.
I knew my 22mm Cusco wasn't the biggest, but I thought it still qualified as a "big front swaybar". I had no idea that I was off 10mm. :)[/QUOTE]
We get camber plates in ESP as well. I would say it would benefit as well. I am not sure due to the fact your tires aren't pushing back as much as R comps.
| Crash477 | 09-04-2005 08:01 PM |
SO has anyone tested this on a 02 WRX yet? After driving a car with this bar and a 24mm RSB, like mine, I want this bar!! I would imagine it should fit, but not sure. Please someone shed some light on this.
I have 24mm Progress RSB with Poltec Endlinks, Megan Racing Coilovers 8g/6g rates with camber plates. I can get a ****e load of -camber in the front with these plates. I autox in STX with stock wheels and Azenis right now.
I have 24mm Progress RSB with Poltec Endlinks, Megan Racing Coilovers 8g/6g rates with camber plates. I can get a ****e load of -camber in the front with these plates. I autox in STX with stock wheels and Azenis right now.
| crystalhelix | 09-04-2005 11:15 PM |
[QUOTE=Crash477]SO has anyone tested this on a 02 WRX yet? After driving a car with this bar and a 24mm RSB, like mine, I want this bar!! I would imagine it should fit, but not sure. Please someone shed some light on this.
I have 24mm Progress RSB with Poltec Endlinks, Megan Racing Coilovers 8g/6g rates with camber plates. I can get a ****e load of -camber in the front with these plates. I autox in STX with stock wheels and Azenis right now.[/QUOTE]
I would say that it would not fit. A WRX has different front lower suspension arms and swaybar pick-up points. This bar would most likely be too long (wide) to fit. If you put the STi aluminum suspension arms than you would probably have a winner.
I have 24mm Progress RSB with Poltec Endlinks, Megan Racing Coilovers 8g/6g rates with camber plates. I can get a ****e load of -camber in the front with these plates. I autox in STX with stock wheels and Azenis right now.[/QUOTE]
I would say that it would not fit. A WRX has different front lower suspension arms and swaybar pick-up points. This bar would most likely be too long (wide) to fit. If you put the STi aluminum suspension arms than you would probably have a winner.
| afpdl | 09-04-2005 11:19 PM |
Where did you get that from? No one else sells different sways for the wrx and STi the endlinks bolt up to the same location.
On a side note is anyone else getting contact between the bar and the front wheels at full lock?
On a side note is anyone else getting contact between the bar and the front wheels at full lock?
| Crash477 | 09-05-2005 10:45 AM |
anyone else know if it will work with a WRX????? Where is the maker of this bar, is he not in this thread anymore?
Steven
Steven
| crystalhelix | 09-05-2005 02:55 PM |
Sam from Stranoparts.com sells this bar and he is having issues with NASIOC not letting him post. I was thinking of the rear bars then, they only fit Forresters and STi's
[QUOTE=Sam Strano]
Justin,
I try to answer the questions on NAISOC site. I can log in, but it
won't let me respond. I get this:
"Sam Strano, you do not have permission to access this page. This could
be due to one of several reasons:
Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this
page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative
features or some other privileged system?
If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your
account, or it may be awaiting activation."
I can't find who to e-mail to fix it, and I can't post. Can you maybe
put this up to make folks aware that I'm monitoring the thread and any
questions they want me to answer have to come to me for right now?
[B][COLOR=Red]As for the bars and fitting a WRX. There are a few out there with
them, they just don't fit the wagons which are narrower. We've used WRX
bars on the STi the past, so fitment should not be an issue on a sedan,
it *IS* a problem for wagons.[/COLOR][/B]
Thanks for any help....
Sam[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Sam Strano]
Justin,
I try to answer the questions on NAISOC site. I can log in, but it
won't let me respond. I get this:
"Sam Strano, you do not have permission to access this page. This could
be due to one of several reasons:
Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this
page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative
features or some other privileged system?
If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your
account, or it may be awaiting activation."
I can't find who to e-mail to fix it, and I can't post. Can you maybe
put this up to make folks aware that I'm monitoring the thread and any
questions they want me to answer have to come to me for right now?
[B][COLOR=Red]As for the bars and fitting a WRX. There are a few out there with
them, they just don't fit the wagons which are narrower. We've used WRX
bars on the STi the past, so fitment should not be an issue on a sedan,
it *IS* a problem for wagons.[/COLOR][/B]
Thanks for any help....
Sam[/QUOTE]
| Scott Farmer | 09-05-2005 10:37 PM |
[QUOTE=afpdl]Where did you get that from? No one else sells different sways for the wrx and STi the endlinks bolt up to the same location.
On a side note is anyone else getting contact between the bar and the front wheels at full lock?[/QUOTE]
I'm getting some contact, I'm not sure if it's the front wheels or something else. Whenever I back up and turn at the same time, I hear and feel a clunk noise. I've lubed all the bushings and tightened them...to no avail. Anyone with any ideas?
On a side note is anyone else getting contact between the bar and the front wheels at full lock?[/QUOTE]
I'm getting some contact, I'm not sure if it's the front wheels or something else. Whenever I back up and turn at the same time, I hear and feel a clunk noise. I've lubed all the bushings and tightened them...to no avail. Anyone with any ideas?
| makofoto | 09-06-2005 02:24 AM |
My oem wagon front sway bar works with wagon and sedan A arms ... as does my Hotchkis sedan front sway bar ... with Poltec heim joint endlinks
| SloRice | 09-06-2005 10:30 AM |
I get a little bit of rubbing on the A-arm with the bar.
On a side note, I had my first auto-x with the new bar at the Toledo Airport this past Sunday and man what a difference!!! The first 2/3 of the course was almost identical to the Nat. Tour event at Toledo and there was a 3 cone slolam that I had to get out of the gas for b/c the rear end would start sliding out at the Nat. Tour and on Sunday, I was full throttle and banging 3rd through it....and I had good V710's at the tour and bad V710's this past Sunday (15 events) :banana:
On a side note, I had my first auto-x with the new bar at the Toledo Airport this past Sunday and man what a difference!!! The first 2/3 of the course was almost identical to the Nat. Tour event at Toledo and there was a 3 cone slolam that I had to get out of the gas for b/c the rear end would start sliding out at the Nat. Tour and on Sunday, I was full throttle and banging 3rd through it....and I had good V710's at the tour and bad V710's this past Sunday (15 events) :banana:
| Crash477 | 09-06-2005 11:23 AM |
awesome, as soon as I get some cash I will order one of these for my 02 WRX then. Hopefully in time for the Subaru Challenge!
| sciolist | 09-06-2005 12:07 PM |
[QUOTE=Scott Farmer]I'm getting some contact, I'm not sure if it's the front wheels or something else. Whenever I back up and turn at the same time, I hear and feel a clunk noise. I've lubed all the bushings and tightened them...to no avail. Anyone with any ideas?[/QUOTE]
When I initially bolted my bar up, I tightened the end links down to the point that five threads were left exposed on the bolt shaft. There was a bit of a clunk only on the driver's side when tunring and unloading at the sime time, eg. turning over a speed bump or steep apron. I then loosened the endlink tension so that only three threads were left exposed, and the clunk disappeared. I was subsequently able to tighten the links back to a little more than four threads exposed without clunkage.
No race events with the bar yet, but it feels great on the street.
Thanks Sam!
When I initially bolted my bar up, I tightened the end links down to the point that five threads were left exposed on the bolt shaft. There was a bit of a clunk only on the driver's side when tunring and unloading at the sime time, eg. turning over a speed bump or steep apron. I then loosened the endlink tension so that only three threads were left exposed, and the clunk disappeared. I was subsequently able to tighten the links back to a little more than four threads exposed without clunkage.
No race events with the bar yet, but it feels great on the street.
Thanks Sam!
| Scott Farmer | 09-10-2005 05:16 PM |
I got under the car yesterday and tried to see where the clunk was coming from. I can't remember exactly where it was (hopefully my friend solo2wrx will chime in; he noticed it). We also noticed that the paint on the bar in one place had been worn because of tire rubbage. I only have the RE070s, so I'm concerned what will happen if I move up to 245/45s. Anyone else notice this?
| afpdl | 09-10-2005 05:23 PM |
I have no problem with my 245s touching, its the wheel itself that is rubbing on mine.
| sciolist | 09-12-2005 11:30 AM |
Interesting.
I have about 15mm clearance at the bar and around 8mm at the strut with OEM tires and wheels (225/45-17 on 7.5x17). This is with KW race coilovers. Obviously I'm limited at the strut, so most additional tire width has to go outboard. I checked the 255's last night - no problem with the bar at full lock.
People are using 255's in AS on both the 7.5" and 8.0" OEM wheels, so they must have pretty good clearance at the OEM strut. Based on that, I can't see how your tire could be rubbing the bar and clearing the strut.
[QUOTE=Scott Farmer]I got under the car yesterday and tried to see where the clunk was coming from. I can't remember exactly where it was (hopefully my friend solo2wrx will chime in; he noticed it). We also noticed that the paint on the bar in one place had been worn because of tire rubbage. I only have the RE070s, so I'm concerned what will happen if I move up to 245/45s. Anyone else notice this?[/QUOTE]
I have about 15mm clearance at the bar and around 8mm at the strut with OEM tires and wheels (225/45-17 on 7.5x17). This is with KW race coilovers. Obviously I'm limited at the strut, so most additional tire width has to go outboard. I checked the 255's last night - no problem with the bar at full lock.
People are using 255's in AS on both the 7.5" and 8.0" OEM wheels, so they must have pretty good clearance at the OEM strut. Based on that, I can't see how your tire could be rubbing the bar and clearing the strut.
[QUOTE=Scott Farmer]I got under the car yesterday and tried to see where the clunk was coming from. I can't remember exactly where it was (hopefully my friend solo2wrx will chime in; he noticed it). We also noticed that the paint on the bar in one place had been worn because of tire rubbage. I only have the RE070s, so I'm concerned what will happen if I move up to 245/45s. Anyone else notice this?[/QUOTE]
| solo2wrx | 09-12-2005 10:24 PM |
Scott was talking about a clunking when he was driving in reverse so we climbed underneath to have a look. The first think I noticed was the endlink of the bar actually hitting the control arm when steering was turned. This was solved by adding a small spacer on the endlink between the bar and the control arm mount. The rubbing that I noticed from the tires occurs at full lock and probably under load as Scott tracks the car. I recommended him not to get 245 series tires without switching his wheel offset first. I can't figure out how the bar is rubbing with the stock tires when there are plenty of other guys running this bar with no issues. :confused:
| crystalhelix | 09-12-2005 10:38 PM |
I am running +48 offset + 5mm spacer....soo... I am starting off 10mm further from teh bar than stock wheels if that helps at all.
| Got Pink? | 09-13-2005 09:37 AM |
I did have to grind off a bit of one of the brackets to get it to fit but I don't get any rubbing on the bar itself either even with stock wheels and 245/45/17 azenis. I guess it could be different with different struts, I have the KW V3's with cusco camber plates on a 45deg angle for caster and camber adjustment. The tires have rubbed the fender liners severly though and I recommend shorter tires if you want a lower ride height or lower offset wheels.
Cystalhelix where did you get the wheel spacers and do they work out well with the stock studs?
Nate
Cystalhelix where did you get the wheel spacers and do they work out well with the stock studs?
Nate
| crystalhelix | 09-13-2005 10:57 AM |
[QUOTE=Got Pink?]I did have to grind off a bit of one of the brackets to get it to fit but I don't get any rubbing on the bar itself either even with stock wheels and 245/45/17 azenis. I guess it could be different with different struts, I have the KW V3's with cusco camber plates on a 45deg angle for caster and camber adjustment. The tires have rubbed the fender liners severly though and I recommend shorter tires if you want a lower ride height or lower offset wheels.
Cystalhelix where did you get the wheel spacers and do they work out well with the stock studs?
Nate[/QUOTE]
they work fine, plenty of thread engagement still. I actually got them from a friend off of his VW beetle. They just slip over the stock studs and work well. I may buy some H+R trak+ spacers for next year as I am going to try to fit 275/40's.
Cystalhelix where did you get the wheel spacers and do they work out well with the stock studs?
Nate[/QUOTE]
they work fine, plenty of thread engagement still. I actually got them from a friend off of his VW beetle. They just slip over the stock studs and work well. I may buy some H+R trak+ spacers for next year as I am going to try to fit 275/40's.
Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét