| crystalhelix | 11-16-2005 09:39 AM |
[QUOTE=rkevans]... Trophies are less important to me right now than 'grin factor.' I'm not even sure I know what that means... :)[/QUOTE]
It happens to most of us :devil: I feel the need...the need for speed. :lol:
It happens to most of us :devil: I feel the need...the need for speed. :lol:
| z3coupe | 11-18-2005 04:17 AM |
Ok, I am biting on this new Strano bar, but need to figure out what I should do. As in the other post, I will mention here what I have.
KW V3 double adjustable coilovers off the shelf. So not totally sure of the spring rates. I believe I was told around 450 front, and the rear is progressive with around 245 mid point. I currently have the COBB front and rear swaybars, with the rear set to full firm. I am also using the Whiteline swaybar links (the metal bracket with the yellow poly bushing in it, not the heim joint adjustable links). I use the PDE camber plates. Darin at Westend Alignment set the fronts to -2, and the rears (with Group N top mounts) to -1.5 - but when I go to the race, I set the front camber to -3. Not sure what he set the toe at, but it does go out a bit when I go down to the -3 camber in the front. I have 5Ziden GN+ 17X8.5 wheels, and Yok Neova AD07 tires in 245/40/17 with 38psi front and about 35-36psi rear. I set the camber and tire pressures like this from info Richard Jung suggested to me (EVO driver though ha ha), and so far it appears to work quite well. I seem to be able to get oversteer when I want it, but Max with his 06 STi was faster - some saying because he was more neutral in the turns than me.
After the initial install, the KW's felt nice and stiff, but now the weaker springs might be settling in, as it don't feel as stiff as when new (coming from using Zeal V6's with 10/8 spring rates). But with all the things I did above, for once in my life the front end sticks quite well, and even surpasses what I had hoped for. But after reading the other post, and the mention of the read diffs blowing out, and how going too stiff (in the rear at least) can actually hurt the times on the course, I wonder what would be the proper setup I should do:
keep both COBB bars, but set the rear to full soft?
get the Strano and keep the rear COBB, but set to full soft?
get the Strano and go back to the stock rear bar?
or also somewhere in there go back to the stock end links?
KW V3 double adjustable coilovers off the shelf. So not totally sure of the spring rates. I believe I was told around 450 front, and the rear is progressive with around 245 mid point. I currently have the COBB front and rear swaybars, with the rear set to full firm. I am also using the Whiteline swaybar links (the metal bracket with the yellow poly bushing in it, not the heim joint adjustable links). I use the PDE camber plates. Darin at Westend Alignment set the fronts to -2, and the rears (with Group N top mounts) to -1.5 - but when I go to the race, I set the front camber to -3. Not sure what he set the toe at, but it does go out a bit when I go down to the -3 camber in the front. I have 5Ziden GN+ 17X8.5 wheels, and Yok Neova AD07 tires in 245/40/17 with 38psi front and about 35-36psi rear. I set the camber and tire pressures like this from info Richard Jung suggested to me (EVO driver though ha ha), and so far it appears to work quite well. I seem to be able to get oversteer when I want it, but Max with his 06 STi was faster - some saying because he was more neutral in the turns than me.
After the initial install, the KW's felt nice and stiff, but now the weaker springs might be settling in, as it don't feel as stiff as when new (coming from using Zeal V6's with 10/8 spring rates). But with all the things I did above, for once in my life the front end sticks quite well, and even surpasses what I had hoped for. But after reading the other post, and the mention of the read diffs blowing out, and how going too stiff (in the rear at least) can actually hurt the times on the course, I wonder what would be the proper setup I should do:
keep both COBB bars, but set the rear to full soft?
get the Strano and keep the rear COBB, but set to full soft?
get the Strano and go back to the stock rear bar?
or also somewhere in there go back to the stock end links?
| sciolist | 11-18-2005 11:27 AM |
^ Get the Strano bar and try it first with the Cobb on soft, then with the OEM rear bar. With stiffer springs, you might very well prefer no rear bar at all.
| Crash477 | 11-18-2005 11:44 AM |
I have the strano bar with the progress rear bar on 24mm. My spring rates are 8kg/6kg and it feels really nice!
| z3coupe | 12-03-2005 06:18 PM |
Does anyone have a LINK to the Strano bar? When I go to his website, there is nothing listed. Where can I get it, there only? Or are there other shops that sell these as well (in SoCal) where I can get one faster?
| kursplat | 12-03-2005 08:10 PM |
[URL=http://www.stranoparts.com/index.php]here's the site[/URL] just call to order it. i don't belive there is any possible way to do it online :p
| AndrewSS | 12-03-2005 08:18 PM |
is there an advantage of having the strano endlink design (im not talking really about durability) I am just wondering if the diff design they have over the stock pillow balls is better, if i remeber the strano has some soft style bushings or whatever.
| afpdl | 12-03-2005 08:19 PM |
[QUOTE=afpdl]Its there, its just hard to find. On the front page put in Subaru, Suspension and Stranoparts as the brand. Then just pick wrx as the model and leave the rest blank.[/QUOTE]
Last page. I got mine online.
Last page. I got mine online.
| makofoto | 12-03-2005 11:28 PM |
Rocky ... Check with Max ... he got his already ... those bushing's aren't soft!
| thesmokingman | 12-04-2005 12:38 AM |
Max with the wagon right? I wonder how this will fit a wagon with the alu gc arms?
| makofoto | 12-04-2005 12:43 AM |
Max w/ '06 STI (wagon is now the daily driver ... put back oem struts yesterday)
| ezparts | 12-11-2005 02:27 AM |
Now, i'm very confused :confused: big front sway bar improves steering??! I've always thought that big front sway bar makes the car push more.
companies like Hotchkis for example, offer stiff rear sway bar for the competition setup....
so, what does stiffer rear sway bar do?? make the car push?? i'm confused. is Hotchkis wrong??
companies like Hotchkis for example, offer stiff rear sway bar for the competition setup....
so, what does stiffer rear sway bar do?? make the car push?? i'm confused. is Hotchkis wrong??
| Corn-Picker | 12-11-2005 08:24 AM |
The big front sway bar works by minimizing camber loss during cornering. People like the big front swaybar because it keeps you A-stock legal.
That's all I can say, someone more knowledgable will have to add more.
That's all I can say, someone more knowledgable will have to add more.
| makofoto | 12-11-2005 09:03 AM |
Once you have a properly set up car ... a big front sway bar will produce push ... our Suby's aren't "properly" set-up when they are usdm oem. Jdm Suby's come with bigger bars ... EVO's come with bigger bars.
Our cars have so much front roll ... that you lose camber and grip when cornering hard = understeer.
At a certain point, too much is too much ... but the 27 mm whiteline and 32 mm hollow Stranos aren't there yet.
You can go with stiff springs and softer sway bars, or bigger sway bars and softer springs. Springs help under braking and cornering ... sway bars only in corner entry, transitional maneuvers ...
The stiffer rear bar makes the car looser ... anti-understeer.
Our cars have so much front roll ... that you lose camber and grip when cornering hard = understeer.
At a certain point, too much is too much ... but the 27 mm whiteline and 32 mm hollow Stranos aren't there yet.
You can go with stiff springs and softer sway bars, or bigger sway bars and softer springs. Springs help under braking and cornering ... sway bars only in corner entry, transitional maneuvers ...
The stiffer rear bar makes the car looser ... anti-understeer.
| ezparts | 12-11-2005 03:04 PM |
I am not familiar with autocross rules. so, only the front bar is allow to change? the rear has to be stock?
| ezparts | 12-11-2005 03:06 PM |
makofoto: the 27 mm whiteline and 32 mm hollow Stranos swaybars are not big enough??? :eek:
| crystalhelix | 12-11-2005 03:24 PM |
[QUOTE=ezparts]makofoto: the 27 mm whiteline and 32 mm hollow Stranos swaybars are not big enough??? :eek:[/QUOTE]
He is saying they are not too big that they are too stiff. It's all in how you read his post.
J
He is saying they are not too big that they are too stiff. It's all in how you read his post.
J
| Corn-Picker | 12-11-2005 08:03 PM |
[QUOTE=ezparts]I am not familiar with autocross rules. so, only the front bar is allow to change? the rear has to be stock?[/QUOTE]
Correct, for the stock-classes at least. Stock classes allow you new struts (as long as they remain the stock ride height), new tires (as long as they are DOT legal), new rims (as long as they are stock width by diameter and are close in offset), and a new front sway bar. There are some other allowances in stock classes, but those listed above are the big issues.
Correct, for the stock-classes at least. Stock classes allow you new struts (as long as they remain the stock ride height), new tires (as long as they are DOT legal), new rims (as long as they are stock width by diameter and are close in offset), and a new front sway bar. There are some other allowances in stock classes, but those listed above are the big issues.
| psyber_0ptix | 12-20-2005 09:37 AM |
STR-STi 32MM
thats the partnumber
[url]http://www.stranoparts.com/index.php[/url]
heres the link to the site
thats the partnumber
[url]http://www.stranoparts.com/index.php[/url]
heres the link to the site
| frostyTSM | 12-22-2005 02:41 PM |
Dang, this thing took me two days to catch up on. :huh: And all I wanted was to learn about Front Sway Bars on WRXs.
Anyway, most of this discussion seems to be for STis or modded classes. I've got a WRX sedan that will be in DS. With shocks (or strut inserts or whatever they are technically called on a WRX) and an alignment being the only changes to the suspension, is this a good choice or is it too much?
Anyway, most of this discussion seems to be for STis or modded classes. I've got a WRX sedan that will be in DS. With shocks (or strut inserts or whatever they are technically called on a WRX) and an alignment being the only changes to the suspension, is this a good choice or is it too much?
| solo2wrx | 12-22-2005 02:59 PM |
[QUOTE=frostyTSM]Dang, this thing took me two days to catch up on. :huh: And all I wanted was to learn about Front Sway Bars on WRXs.
Anyway, most of this discussion seems to be for STis or modded classes. I've got a WRX sedan that will be in DS. With shocks (or strut inserts or whatever they are technically called on a WRX) and an alignment being the only changes to the suspension, is this a good choice or is it too much?[/QUOTE]
The Strano 32mm bar is fine for your car to be run in DS.
Anyway, most of this discussion seems to be for STis or modded classes. I've got a WRX sedan that will be in DS. With shocks (or strut inserts or whatever they are technically called on a WRX) and an alignment being the only changes to the suspension, is this a good choice or is it too much?[/QUOTE]
The Strano 32mm bar is fine for your car to be run in DS.
| frostyTSM | 12-22-2005 03:09 PM |
Thanks. :D
I'll probably get it in a few months as I want to gradually make changes to the car and learn to drive the car well at each stage. That and I'm fresh out of the Novice class.
I'll probably get it in a few months as I want to gradually make changes to the car and learn to drive the car well at each stage. That and I'm fresh out of the Novice class.
| DrBiggly | 12-22-2005 04:19 PM |
[QUOTE=frostyTSM]Dang, this thing took me two days to catch up on. :huh: And all I wanted was to learn about Front Sway Bars on WRXs.
Anyway, most of this discussion seems to be for STis or modded classes. I've got a WRX sedan that will be in DS. With shocks (or strut inserts or whatever they are technically called on a WRX) and an alignment being the only changes to the suspension, is this a good choice or is it too much?[/QUOTE]
Not too much at all. If I were running DS I'd definitely do it. :)
Anyway, most of this discussion seems to be for STis or modded classes. I've got a WRX sedan that will be in DS. With shocks (or strut inserts or whatever they are technically called on a WRX) and an alignment being the only changes to the suspension, is this a good choice or is it too much?[/QUOTE]
Not too much at all. If I were running DS I'd definitely do it. :)
| SUPAREX | 12-22-2005 05:20 PM |
I just put on a whiteline 24mm non adj. in the front and a 22-26 in the rear set at 22mm on my '02 WRX.
Is this a fairly safe setup for most driving conditions, i.e. snow and rain, or do I need to disconnect the bars when I encounter these conditions??
TIA
Is this a fairly safe setup for most driving conditions, i.e. snow and rain, or do I need to disconnect the bars when I encounter these conditions??
TIA
| AndrewSS | 12-31-2005 09:37 PM |
Well, today I placed an order for the Strano 32mm hollow bar, it will replace my whiteline 27-29mm solid bar... I look forward to replacing it with the strano bar, hopefully someone will buy my old whiteline off of me. Thanks for all the good info in this thread ;)
| AtomicRacer | 12-31-2005 09:41 PM |
[QUOTE=AndrewSS]Well, today I placed an order for the Strano 32mm hollow bar, it will replace my whiteline 27-29mm solid bar... I look forward to replacing it with the strano bar, hopefully someone will buy my old whiteline off of me. Thanks for all the good info in this thread ;)[/QUOTE]
I currently have the whiteline bar and am curious as to what your observations are once you have replaced it. Please post it.
Thanks,
-Paul
I currently have the whiteline bar and am curious as to what your observations are once you have replaced it. Please post it.
Thanks,
-Paul
| wm07 | 12-31-2005 10:15 PM |
I guess the solid whiteline 27-29mm would perform very similar to the hollow 32mm bar, but what do I know? :)
I am running the Strano bar as well, and can't believe how much front grip it increases compared to my old 22mm Cusco bar. Will someone make a 32mm+ solid bar? :devil:
I am running the Strano bar as well, and can't believe how much front grip it increases compared to my old 22mm Cusco bar. Will someone make a 32mm+ solid bar? :devil:
| Shoppingcart | 01-01-2006 01:03 AM |
I plan on going with the 32mm strano bar :)
| AndrewSS | 01-01-2006 03:26 AM |
[QUOTE=AtomicRacer]I currently have the whiteline bar and am curious as to what your observations are once you have replaced it. Please post it.
Thanks,
-Paul[/QUOTE]
i let you know dude, i doubt i will notice much though
Thanks,
-Paul[/QUOTE]
i let you know dude, i doubt i will notice much though
| AtomicRacer | 01-01-2006 03:45 AM |
I am curious as to the exact weight of the strano bar and my whiteline bar (don't want to take it off just to weigh it).
-Paul
-Paul
| crystalhelix | 01-01-2006 11:57 AM |
the weight has been posted a couple times.....
| Whiteghost 2.5 | 01-06-2006 05:06 PM |
Can this bar be adapted to the GC8 RS's?
Thanks
Josh
Thanks
Josh
| psyber_0ptix | 01-06-2006 07:39 PM |
[QUOTE=Whiteghost 2.5]Can this bar be adapted to the GC8 RS's?
Thanks
Josh[/QUOTE]
no because the way our sway bars mount to the chassis, wont allow for a bushing to hold that bar. all aftermarket bushings wont work at 32mm with out brackets. the largest we can run is 25mm unless you shave the bushing (whcih will get dangerously thin with a bar that size.
Thanks
Josh[/QUOTE]
no because the way our sway bars mount to the chassis, wont allow for a bushing to hold that bar. all aftermarket bushings wont work at 32mm with out brackets. the largest we can run is 25mm unless you shave the bushing (whcih will get dangerously thin with a bar that size.
| petawabit | 01-06-2006 07:49 PM |
[QUOTE=psyber_0ptix]no because the way our sway bars mount to the chassis, wont allow for a bushing to hold that bar. all aftermarket bushings wont work at 32mm with out brackets. the largest we can run is 25mm unless you shave the bushing (whcih will get dangerously thin with a bar that size.[/QUOTE]
where do the gd mount? so you're saying that new brackets will fix this?Time for some experimenting
where do the gd mount? so you're saying that new brackets will fix this?Time for some experimenting
| psyber_0ptix | 01-06-2006 08:26 PM |
the 02+ use a larger bushing bracket and uses 2 bolts to secure the bracket down.
unfortunately the early imprezas use a "lip and bolt" method of attatchment which really limits bracket replacement/bushing size and options.
i checked already and energy suspension doesnt have anything that will fit the front larger than 25mm. prothane is similar.
anything after that uses a fatter bushing which wont be able to fit in our brackets.
02+ dont have this problem as they use really large brackets in the first place. and the aftermarket brackets can be slightly bent to fit (being that they are secured by 2 bolts)
:(
i checked. however anyone wants to experement/R&D i'd be willing to collaborate as i'm interested in this bar as well. and i cant justify spending 280 dollars for a new front crossmember and steering rack woes...
unfortunately the early imprezas use a "lip and bolt" method of attatchment which really limits bracket replacement/bushing size and options.
i checked already and energy suspension doesnt have anything that will fit the front larger than 25mm. prothane is similar.
anything after that uses a fatter bushing which wont be able to fit in our brackets.
02+ dont have this problem as they use really large brackets in the first place. and the aftermarket brackets can be slightly bent to fit (being that they are secured by 2 bolts)
:(
i checked. however anyone wants to experement/R&D i'd be willing to collaborate as i'm interested in this bar as well. and i cant justify spending 280 dollars for a new front crossmember and steering rack woes...
| petawabit | 01-07-2006 02:36 AM |
are the mounting points(on the gd chassis being 2 bolt, and the gc chassis having that lip and bolt method) spaced similiarly? is the bracket size noticably different? I should be getting this bar soon so I'll let everyone know my findings on the subject
| MPME | 01-09-2006 02:38 PM |
The original topic starting question was somewhat basic (I don't mean simple like "dumb," but simple like "I just want a straightforward answer",) so I don't want to get overly complicated here, but, what you might want from sway bar options will also be heavily based on what type of track you are on, or how tight your auto-X course will be.
If you are dealing with a course that is very slow and tight, you might be better off disconnecting your front bar, and using your rear bar to both control the front of the car, and allow better front traction off the tight corners (ones where front traction is rewarded over rear traction).
I can answer more questions directly if you like, but just know that although it might sounds backwards, tuning one end of a chassis by manipulating the opposite end of the car is a very common method in racecar engineering.
If you are dealing with a course that is very slow and tight, you might be better off disconnecting your front bar, and using your rear bar to both control the front of the car, and allow better front traction off the tight corners (ones where front traction is rewarded over rear traction).
I can answer more questions directly if you like, but just know that although it might sounds backwards, tuning one end of a chassis by manipulating the opposite end of the car is a very common method in racecar engineering.
| makofoto | 01-09-2006 04:47 PM |
... but doesn't the front of the car enter the corner first ... usually. :)
With our Suby's if you lose front camber with front roll ... the game is half over already.
With our Suby's if you lose front camber with front roll ... the game is half over already.
| Whiteghost 2.5 | 01-09-2006 08:38 PM |
[QUOTE=psyber_0ptix]the 02+ use a larger bushing bracket and uses 2 bolts to secure the bracket down.
unfortunately the early imprezas use a "lip and bolt" method of attatchment which really limits bracket replacement/bushing size and options.
i checked already and energy suspension doesnt have anything that will fit the front larger than 25mm. prothane is similar.
anything after that uses a fatter bushing which wont be able to fit in our brackets.
02+ dont have this problem as they use really large brackets in the first place. and the aftermarket brackets can be slightly bent to fit (being that they are secured by 2 bolts)
:(
i checked. however anyone wants to experement/R&D i'd be willing to collaborate as i'm interested in this bar as well. and i cant justify spending 280 dollars for a new front crossmember and steering rack woes...[/QUOTE]
So if we could use the 02+ brackets then this bar would work? Correct?
I think I will be doing some fabbing soon.
Josh
unfortunately the early imprezas use a "lip and bolt" method of attatchment which really limits bracket replacement/bushing size and options.
i checked already and energy suspension doesnt have anything that will fit the front larger than 25mm. prothane is similar.
anything after that uses a fatter bushing which wont be able to fit in our brackets.
02+ dont have this problem as they use really large brackets in the first place. and the aftermarket brackets can be slightly bent to fit (being that they are secured by 2 bolts)
:(
i checked. however anyone wants to experement/R&D i'd be willing to collaborate as i'm interested in this bar as well. and i cant justify spending 280 dollars for a new front crossmember and steering rack woes...[/QUOTE]
So if we could use the 02+ brackets then this bar would work? Correct?
I think I will be doing some fabbing soon.
Josh
| psyber_0ptix | 01-09-2006 10:28 PM |
the 02+ brackets are spaced differently, it houses a MUCH larger bushing within.
if you can safely fab something up, i'd be interested as well...
and petawabit; the mouinting points are very different. the actual mounting bracket (thats a part of the subframne) is in fact smaller than the ones found on the 02+, however i'm sure something can be worked out....
i'd love to rock this bar !
if you can safely fab something up, i'd be interested as well...
and petawabit; the mouinting points are very different. the actual mounting bracket (thats a part of the subframne) is in fact smaller than the ones found on the 02+, however i'm sure something can be worked out....
i'd love to rock this bar !
| MPME | 01-10-2006 01:52 AM |
[QUOTE=makofoto]... but doesn't the front of the car enter the corner first ... usually. :)
With our Suby's if you lose front camber with front roll ... the game is half over already.[/QUOTE]
*Our Suby's*...?...compared to whay, my Yugo?...;-)
You can use the rear bar to both control the roll at the front, and based upon the setting of the rear bar, promote rotation.
With our Suby's if you lose front camber with front roll ... the game is half over already.[/QUOTE]
*Our Suby's*...?...compared to whay, my Yugo?...;-)
You can use the rear bar to both control the roll at the front, and based upon the setting of the rear bar, promote rotation.
| makofoto | 01-10-2006 02:00 AM |
It is generally acknowledged that where as with most cars that have some semblance of balance a stiffer front sway bar promotes understeer. But in general stock WRX's and STI's reduce their under steer when going to a stiffer front sway bar that reduces front roll and subsequent loss of camber. Going to a stiffer rear bar FIRST will also help but doesn't seem to help as much as a stiffer front bar.
What is your experience in achieving better balance with WRX's/STI's?
What is your experience in achieving better balance with WRX's/STI's?
| wm07 | 01-10-2006 02:03 AM |
mako is correct. I am also a believer in big front sway bar.
<-- went from stock to 22mm and now 32mm
<-- went from stock to 22mm and now 32mm
| Corn-Picker | 01-10-2006 09:03 AM |
[QUOTE=MPME]*Our Suby's*...?...compared to whay, my Yugo?...;-)
You can use the rear bar to both control the roll at the front, and based upon the setting of the rear bar, promote rotation.[/QUOTE]
Many of us do not want to change the rear bar, that would move us out of A-Stock.
You can use the rear bar to both control the roll at the front, and based upon the setting of the rear bar, promote rotation.[/QUOTE]
Many of us do not want to change the rear bar, that would move us out of A-Stock.
| makofoto | 01-10-2006 10:29 AM |
Anyone know why one is only allowed to change the FSB in stock classes? Would it be more useful to change the RSB first on _most_ "sporty" cars?
| ratt_finkel | 01-10-2006 10:32 AM |
[QUOTE=makofoto]Anyone know why one is only allowed to change the FSB in stock classes? Would it be more useful to change the RSB first on _most_ "sporty" cars?[/QUOTE]
It's a subject that is always under great debate and has been beaten to death longer than most care to remember.
It mostly has to due with safety, and the fact that when the rule was implemented, mist cars didn't have any swaybars.
It's a subject that is always under great debate and has been beaten to death longer than most care to remember.
It mostly has to due with safety, and the fact that when the rule was implemented, mist cars didn't have any swaybars.
| Crash477 | 01-10-2006 11:03 AM |
[QUOTE=wm07]mako is correct. I am also a believer in big front sway bar.
<-- went from stock to 22mm and now 32mm[/QUOTE]
Went from stock to 32mm FSB!! :D
<-- went from stock to 22mm and now 32mm[/QUOTE]
Went from stock to 32mm FSB!! :D
| McGuyver | 01-10-2006 12:31 PM |
Does anyone know if the new 32mm bar would fit in a 2002 2.5RS application? When I bought my 22mm bar from Whiteline, I seem to remember that there were different part numbers for the 2.5RS and WRX but it's been a few years and my memory is fading rapidly.
Thanks for your help.
Chris
Thanks for your help.
Chris
| frostyTSM | 01-10-2006 02:47 PM |
[QUOTE=makofoto]Anyone know why one is only allowed to change the FSB in stock classes? Would it be more useful to change the RSB first on _most_ "sporty" cars?[/QUOTE]
When I've talked to some old timers they've noted that the FSB alone doesn't do much, although this was for cars in general (not the WRX). It could be something of a "stock" thing and for some reason the FSB got allowed. Granted, I don't consider Stock by autox rules to quite be stock in any stretch of the mind. Bald tires with two "treads" just ain't stock.
When I've talked to some old timers they've noted that the FSB alone doesn't do much, although this was for cars in general (not the WRX). It could be something of a "stock" thing and for some reason the FSB got allowed. Granted, I don't consider Stock by autox rules to quite be stock in any stretch of the mind. Bald tires with two "treads" just ain't stock.
| Whiteghost 2.5 | 01-10-2006 08:38 PM |
[QUOTE=psyber_0ptix]the 02+ brackets are spaced differently, it houses a MUCH larger bushing within.
if you can safely fab something up, i'd be interested as well...
and petawabit; the mouinting points are very different. the actual mounting bracket (thats a part of the subframne) is in fact smaller than the ones found on the 02+, however i'm sure something can be worked out....
i'd love to rock this bar ![/QUOTE]
How about welding a steel plate to the RS sway bar bracket, with studs placed in it so as you could use the 02+ sway bar mount?
Good Idea? Yea-nay?
Josh
if you can safely fab something up, i'd be interested as well...
and petawabit; the mouinting points are very different. the actual mounting bracket (thats a part of the subframne) is in fact smaller than the ones found on the 02+, however i'm sure something can be worked out....
i'd love to rock this bar ![/QUOTE]
How about welding a steel plate to the RS sway bar bracket, with studs placed in it so as you could use the 02+ sway bar mount?
Good Idea? Yea-nay?
Josh
| psyber_0ptix | 01-10-2006 11:14 PM |
[QUOTE=Whiteghost 2.5]How about welding a steel plate to the RS sway bar bracket, with studs placed in it so as you could use the 02+ sway bar mount?
Good Idea? Yea-nay?
Josh[/QUOTE]
i was thinking that....
get a flat plate that has a lip and a hole to run across the normal sway bar mount. but have it extended end under the lip to house a second hole/welded nut.
that way it would ustilize the oem bolt location for the mount, but also have a way to secure a second bolt (yet utilizing the stock mounting lip)
i'm not good with a welder or manipulating metal though :(
Good Idea? Yea-nay?
Josh[/QUOTE]
i was thinking that....
get a flat plate that has a lip and a hole to run across the normal sway bar mount. but have it extended end under the lip to house a second hole/welded nut.
that way it would ustilize the oem bolt location for the mount, but also have a way to secure a second bolt (yet utilizing the stock mounting lip)
i'm not good with a welder or manipulating metal though :(
| MPME | 01-11-2006 04:34 PM |
[QUOTE=makofoto]It is generally acknowledged that where as with most cars that have some semblance of balance a stiffer front sway bar promotes understeer. But in general stock WRX's and STI's reduce their under steer when going to a stiffer front sway bar that reduces front roll and subsequent loss of camber. Going to a stiffer rear bar FIRST will also help but doesn't seem to help as much as a stiffer front bar.
What is your experience in achieving better balance with WRX's/STI's?[/QUOTE]
My experience is using whatever chassis tools--dampers, springs, ride height, camber, toe, sway bars, tire pressures, and aero to tune an STI to whatever course conditions I'm faced with. I don't have nearly as many options with my Yugo though... ;-)
What is your experience in achieving better balance with WRX's/STI's?[/QUOTE]
My experience is using whatever chassis tools--dampers, springs, ride height, camber, toe, sway bars, tire pressures, and aero to tune an STI to whatever course conditions I'm faced with. I don't have nearly as many options with my Yugo though... ;-)
| Whiteghost 2.5 | 01-11-2006 04:46 PM |
[QUOTE=psyber_0ptix]i was thinking that....
get a flat plate that has a lip and a hole to run across the normal sway bar mount. but have it extended end under the lip to house a second hole/welded nut.
that way it would ustilize the oem bolt location for the mount, but also have a way to secure a second bolt (yet utilizing the stock mounting lip)
i'm not good with a welder or manipulating metal though :([/QUOTE]
Yeah thats a good Idea and I have a friend that is good with a welder. I think this will be a new project.
Josh
get a flat plate that has a lip and a hole to run across the normal sway bar mount. but have it extended end under the lip to house a second hole/welded nut.
that way it would ustilize the oem bolt location for the mount, but also have a way to secure a second bolt (yet utilizing the stock mounting lip)
i'm not good with a welder or manipulating metal though :([/QUOTE]
Yeah thats a good Idea and I have a friend that is good with a welder. I think this will be a new project.
Josh
| D_REX | 01-11-2006 04:52 PM |
Isn't the track narrower on the GC8? I would think that would be a deal breaker by itself.
| psyber_0ptix | 01-11-2006 06:40 PM |
[QUOTE=Whiteghost 2.5]Yeah thats a good Idea and I have a friend that is good with a welder. I think this will be a new project.
Josh[/QUOTE]
please let me know as i'd be interested in a set as well. :)
Josh[/QUOTE]
please let me know as i'd be interested in a set as well. :)
| psyber_0ptix | 01-11-2006 06:40 PM |
[QUOTE=D_REX]Isn't the track narrower on the GC8? I would think that would be a deal breaker by itself.[/QUOTE]
i was hoping to try it with my STi control arms, maybe it will fit and if anything i'm sure theres a way to adapt the endlink somehow be it mount it on the other side than noted in directions.
i was hoping to try it with my STi control arms, maybe it will fit and if anything i'm sure theres a way to adapt the endlink somehow be it mount it on the other side than noted in directions.
| AndrewSS | 01-11-2006 09:00 PM |
Ok, well me and a few friends are gonna install the strano 32mm bar on my car this weekend. We have access to a dealer for the install so we can put it on a lift, even a "drive on hoist" <- we can use that to have the wheels on ground this the suspension is compressed, it sounded like that is a good idea, well atleast required when tightening the endlinks.
So my main question has to do with the dropping of the subframe, I am wondering what sort of torque specs should be subframe bolts? Did you guys drop the cross member too, it looked like it would be easier to move that out of the way too - again, with the crossmember do I need to be concerned about the torque on those bolts too. Then finally, it seemed the consensus of the endlinks and then the bushings-brackets just need to be tighend with some independence... just get a feel for what doesnt clunk and then doesnt loosen.
Ok then, about lube, I saw many recommend "marine" grease and biccycle grease. But I was told that synthetic bearing grease was the one to use, what do you guys say?
OK, last thing- are the endlink brackets revised now (or was there really a real problem?) it sounded like people were having issues with them contacting the steering tierod or then the lower control arm (sorry if im getting the names wrong).
Anyway, hopefully you guys can steer me in the right direction, I am a little bit nervous about the install but it should be ok. Oh yeah, I am gonna do an alignment too, should this be done after the FSB or does it matter? Ok thanks a lot!
So my main question has to do with the dropping of the subframe, I am wondering what sort of torque specs should be subframe bolts? Did you guys drop the cross member too, it looked like it would be easier to move that out of the way too - again, with the crossmember do I need to be concerned about the torque on those bolts too. Then finally, it seemed the consensus of the endlinks and then the bushings-brackets just need to be tighend with some independence... just get a feel for what doesnt clunk and then doesnt loosen.
Ok then, about lube, I saw many recommend "marine" grease and biccycle grease. But I was told that synthetic bearing grease was the one to use, what do you guys say?
OK, last thing- are the endlink brackets revised now (or was there really a real problem?) it sounded like people were having issues with them contacting the steering tierod or then the lower control arm (sorry if im getting the names wrong).
Anyway, hopefully you guys can steer me in the right direction, I am a little bit nervous about the install but it should be ok. Oh yeah, I am gonna do an alignment too, should this be done after the FSB or does it matter? Ok thanks a lot!
| BlkWRXWag | 01-11-2006 09:08 PM |
I installed 2 Strano bars last weekend. Here are my top tips:-
Subframe bolts are not that tight as you will see when you undo them. Nor are the crossmember bolts (which you will need to take off). Just tighten them back up to hand tight.
Bolt up Strano mount brackets with no bar first to make sure they sit flush.
Hang bar by endlinks (no bushings) and then attach mounts. This will ensure bar is centered.
Insert bushing in both endlinks all except the top one and put nut loosely on top.
Place jack under each endlink and raise enough so that you have enough clearance to insert yop bushing and then tighten top nut so it has a few threads showing
Subframe bolts are not that tight as you will see when you undo them. Nor are the crossmember bolts (which you will need to take off). Just tighten them back up to hand tight.
Bolt up Strano mount brackets with no bar first to make sure they sit flush.
Hang bar by endlinks (no bushings) and then attach mounts. This will ensure bar is centered.
Insert bushing in both endlinks all except the top one and put nut loosely on top.
Place jack under each endlink and raise enough so that you have enough clearance to insert yop bushing and then tighten top nut so it has a few threads showing
| BlkWRXWag | 01-11-2006 09:09 PM |
No alignment is necessary afterwards.
| Crash477 | 01-11-2006 11:35 PM |
Only people that had problems with the brackets were 02-03 wrx owners.
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