| AndrewSS | 01-11-2006 11:37 PM |
[QUOTE=BlkWRXWag]No alignment is necessary afterwards.[/QUOTE]
well I need an alignment regardless, mine is pretty wacked out right now
well I need an alignment regardless, mine is pretty wacked out right now
| ericdc | 01-12-2006 10:31 PM |
Lubrication.... I have had my Strano bar off the car 5 times now to relube it. It is my wifes daily driver (around 15k a year) and the damn bar just squeaks like crazy. I just took it completely off last week cleaned until it was spotless and relubed it. Here it is a week later (and not even a tank of gas) and it is squeaking loud again. I used Park Tool Polylube bike grease as recommended. [url]http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=8&item=PPL-1[/url]
Anyone have any clue how to make this thing quiet for more than a few days? I feel like I am in a 79 Ford pickup when I drive it anymore. I actually find myself driving it conservatively so I don't make the suspension move and squeak. Ugh.
Anyone have any clue how to make this thing quiet for more than a few days? I feel like I am in a 79 Ford pickup when I drive it anymore. I actually find myself driving it conservatively so I don't make the suspension move and squeak. Ugh.
| z3coupe | 01-13-2006 03:46 AM |
Well, I have had mine on now for maybe about 2 weeks, and it too is making a rubber "squish" sound going over bumps. I tried the special grease used for trailer hitch balls (as was also reccomended). That didn't do it either. But it is liveable as long as I have the radio turned up, and only makes it going over big bumps (like speed bumps).
| AndrewSS | 01-13-2006 09:01 AM |
well... I talked to strano because my bar isnt here yet (its been like 10 days or so) and I guess addco ran out of some inventory and the bars will not be completed till late next week or so. Kinda sucks cause I was having an install day this weekend lol, but I am still gonna install my catback and a friend will help me with an alignment and we will relube my whiteline bar thats on right now.
| rankink | 01-13-2006 09:33 AM |
[QUOTE=z3coupe]Well, I have had mine on now for maybe about 2 weeks, and it too is making a rubber "squish" sound going over bumps. I tried the special grease used for trailer hitch balls (as was also reccomended). That didn't do it either. But it is liveable as long as I have the radio turned up, and only makes it going over big bumps (like speed bumps).[/QUOTE]
I am using some of the valvoline synthetic grease and it works for about 2-3 weeks until it starts squeaking again. And this is with lubing the hell out of the mounts, endlinks, everything. I guess it wants to make sure you know it is there or something.
I am using some of the valvoline synthetic grease and it works for about 2-3 weeks until it starts squeaking again. And this is with lubing the hell out of the mounts, endlinks, everything. I guess it wants to make sure you know it is there or something.
| MattNJ2.8 | 01-13-2006 09:57 AM |
[QUOTE=ericdc]Anyone have any clue how to make this thing quiet for more than a few days? I feel like I am in a 79 Ford pickup when I drive it anymore. I actually find myself driving it conservatively so I don't make the suspension move and squeak. Ugh.[/QUOTE]
This is probably verboten, but during the auto-x season when my Whiteline 26mm bar squeaked, I just put up with it.
However, during the auto-x offseason, I put in *extra* washers in between the bar and the endlinks and also between the endlinks and the frame.
I used heavy duty plastic washers, and it worked to dampen the noise and vibration. Obviously, there was a trade off in response, but it was worth it for me. I had to smush the washers in there.
The plastic washers were pretty chewed up by the end of the winter, so by the time the first autocross was coming I had removed the extra plastic washers.
This is probably verboten, but during the auto-x season when my Whiteline 26mm bar squeaked, I just put up with it.
However, during the auto-x offseason, I put in *extra* washers in between the bar and the endlinks and also between the endlinks and the frame.
I used heavy duty plastic washers, and it worked to dampen the noise and vibration. Obviously, there was a trade off in response, but it was worth it for me. I had to smush the washers in there.
The plastic washers were pretty chewed up by the end of the winter, so by the time the first autocross was coming I had removed the extra plastic washers.
| AUTOwrXER | 01-13-2006 10:58 AM |
It would be uber-sweet if Addco could design a solid ball-bearing mount. Those are the best for noise and bind-free movement.
| D_REX | 01-13-2006 11:01 AM |
It would have to be shrink fitted to the tubing prior to bending and would be non serviceable but it'd be sweet :D
| Crash477 | 01-13-2006 11:25 AM |
Ah I dont mind the noises. My car is more autox car that daily driver now anyway. It makes so many squeaks and creaks.
| makofoto | 01-13-2006 11:29 AM |
Right ... if you are going to use fairly extreme suspension bits then NVH is going to be part of your world. Car makers spend a lot of time and money making cars quiet. You can't expect that if you going to go hardcore autocrossing.
| GotWRX03 | 01-13-2006 12:08 PM |
who's got a good deal on the Strano or whiteline 27+mm bars?
| D_REX | 01-13-2006 01:47 PM |
[QUOTE=AUTOwrXER]It would be uber-sweet if Addco could design a solid ball-bearing mount. Those are the best for noise and bind-free movement.[/QUOTE]
After some carefull consideration I beleive that something like this could be made and retrofitted to a post production bar. What is the maximum width of the blade and approximately the minimum bend radius of the bar?
This would not be very cheap to make btw.
After some carefull consideration I beleive that something like this could be made and retrofitted to a post production bar. What is the maximum width of the blade and approximately the minimum bend radius of the bar?
This would not be very cheap to make btw.
| Cosworth | 01-13-2006 01:57 PM |
[QUOTE=D_REX]After some carefull consideration I beleive that something like this could be made and retrofitted to a post production bar. What is the maximum width of the blade and approximately the minimum bend radius of the bar?
This would not be very cheap to make btw.[/QUOTE]
D, There are split cage roller bearings much like crank and cam bearings where there are two "hemispheres". Beyond that, a dust seal and a precision inner race seating area would be the next hurdle.
This would not be very cheap to make btw.[/QUOTE]
D, There are split cage roller bearings much like crank and cam bearings where there are two "hemispheres". Beyond that, a dust seal and a precision inner race seating area would be the next hurdle.
| z3coupe | 01-14-2006 11:46 PM |
PROBLEM with the Strano Bar
�
�
Guys, please read the new post Max and I started on here. There may be a problem with the Strano bar with it rubbing on a bolt for the power steering bracket
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=12313073#post12313073[/url]
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=12313073#post12313073[/url]
| AUTOwrXER | 01-15-2006 07:33 PM |
[QUOTE=z3coupe]Guys, please read the new post Max and I started on here. There may be a problem with the Strano bar with it rubbing on a bolt for the power steering bracket
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=12313073#post12313073[/url][/QUOTE]
Responded. Don't think it's anything to pull the fire alarm over.
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=12313073#post12313073[/url][/QUOTE]
Responded. Don't think it's anything to pull the fire alarm over.
| crystalhelix | 01-15-2006 08:03 PM |
[QUOTE=AUTOwrXER]Responded. Don't think it's anything to pull the fire alarm over.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, because you'll get that stuff on your hands that only show's up under UV light when the police come to your school to bust who-ever did it to get out of a gnarly test. :lol:
[IMG]http://www.hupd.harvard.edu/images/fire_alarm.jpg[/IMG]
Yeah, because you'll get that stuff on your hands that only show's up under UV light when the police come to your school to bust who-ever did it to get out of a gnarly test. :lol:
[IMG]http://www.hupd.harvard.edu/images/fire_alarm.jpg[/IMG]
| psyber_0ptix | 01-15-2006 08:53 PM |
i thought ink on your hands is a myth. i'd use a paper towel to pull an alarm
| crystalhelix | 01-15-2006 08:56 PM |
I guess I am just gullible and believe whatever anyone tells me. I am off to find that two headed monkey that guy told me about......
(I'd use a bag, so the die doesn't seep through the towel), just fyi..
(I'd use a bag, so the die doesn't seep through the towel), just fyi..
| AUTOwrXER | 01-16-2006 11:04 AM |
I'd use a glove that was too small for my hand, just so that I could say "If the glove doesn't fit, you can't convict"
(did I get that OJ quote right?)
(did I get that OJ quote right?)
| crystalhelix | 01-16-2006 11:07 AM |
[johnny cochran]If the glove does not fit you must acquit![/cochran]
[IMG]http://aalbc.com/authors/images/johnnie.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://sportsmed.starwave.com/media/other/2002/0226/photo/a_simpson_i.jpg[/IMG]
Main Entry: ac�quit
Pronunciation: &-'kwit
Function: transitive verb
Inflected Form(s): ac�quit�ted; ac�quit�ting
Etymology: Middle English aquiten, from Old French aquiter, from a- (from Latin ad-) + quite free of -- more at QUIT
1 a archaic : to pay off (as a claim or debt) b obsolete : REPAY, REQUITE
2 : to discharge completely (as from an obligation or accusation) <the court acquitted the prisoner>
3 : to conduct (oneself) usually satisfactorily especially under stress <the recruits acquitted themselves like veterans>
synonym see BEHAVE, EXCULPATE
- ac�quit�ter noun
[IMG]http://aalbc.com/authors/images/johnnie.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://sportsmed.starwave.com/media/other/2002/0226/photo/a_simpson_i.jpg[/IMG]
Main Entry: ac�quit
Pronunciation: &-'kwit
Function: transitive verb
Inflected Form(s): ac�quit�ted; ac�quit�ting
Etymology: Middle English aquiten, from Old French aquiter, from a- (from Latin ad-) + quite free of -- more at QUIT
1 a archaic : to pay off (as a claim or debt) b obsolete : REPAY, REQUITE
2 : to discharge completely (as from an obligation or accusation) <the court acquitted the prisoner>
3 : to conduct (oneself) usually satisfactorily especially under stress <the recruits acquitted themselves like veterans>
synonym see BEHAVE, EXCULPATE
- ac�quit�ter noun
| bdi | 01-16-2006 11:31 AM |
Johnny Cochran
RIP
RIP
| AUTOwrXER | 01-16-2006 01:57 PM |
Werd, and thanks for the Websters entry.
| crystalhelix | 01-16-2006 03:29 PM |
I have to make sure I am spelling things right now, or not right on purpose otherwise I have to photoshop myself in a fire.
Back on topic
[url]www.stranoparts.com[/url]
LOL
Back on topic
[url]www.stranoparts.com[/url]
LOL
| petawabit | 01-25-2006 06:30 AM |
[QUOTE=psyber_0ptix]i was thinking that....
get a flat plate that has a lip and a hole to run across the normal sway bar mount. but have it extended end under the lip to house a second hole/welded nut.
that way it would ustilize the oem bolt location for the mount, but also have a way to secure a second bolt (yet utilizing the stock mounting lip)
i'm not good with a welder or manipulating metal though :([/QUOTE]
Wrenching on a friend's car, I noticed what you were talking about, but it seems like more of the difference between crossmembers, not so much the chassis itself. Meaning that if you were to use the wrx crossmember, that a gc can use the strano bar without much, if at all, fab work or are you talking about another connection of the swaybar to the chassis? Which crossmember are you currently using?
get a flat plate that has a lip and a hole to run across the normal sway bar mount. but have it extended end under the lip to house a second hole/welded nut.
that way it would ustilize the oem bolt location for the mount, but also have a way to secure a second bolt (yet utilizing the stock mounting lip)
i'm not good with a welder or manipulating metal though :([/QUOTE]
Wrenching on a friend's car, I noticed what you were talking about, but it seems like more of the difference between crossmembers, not so much the chassis itself. Meaning that if you were to use the wrx crossmember, that a gc can use the strano bar without much, if at all, fab work or are you talking about another connection of the swaybar to the chassis? Which crossmember are you currently using?
| psyber_0ptix | 01-25-2006 07:02 AM |
[QUOTE=petawabit]Wrenching on a friend's car, I noticed what you were talking about, but it seems like more of the difference between crossmembers, not so much the chassis itself. Meaning that if you were to use the wrx crossmember, that a gc can use the strano bar without much, if at all, fab work or are you talking about another connection of the swaybar to the chassis? Which crossmember are you currently using?[/QUOTE]
theres no doubt that the wrx subframe will work with the strano bar, it's just a 250 dollar ordeal Just to be able to run the sway bar (therfor the whitelines may be a wiser choice)
i'm currently using the early 90's turbo legacy crossmember witht he "older" sway bar mounting method.
the brackets are tiny and wont house a bushing that supports a bar larger than 25mm
theres no doubt that the wrx subframe will work with the strano bar, it's just a 250 dollar ordeal Just to be able to run the sway bar (therfor the whitelines may be a wiser choice)
i'm currently using the early 90's turbo legacy crossmember witht he "older" sway bar mounting method.
the brackets are tiny and wont house a bushing that supports a bar larger than 25mm
| petawabit | 01-25-2006 08:23 PM |
[QUOTE=psyber_0ptix]theres no doubt that the wrx subframe will work with the strano bar, it's just a 250 dollar ordeal Just to be able to run the sway bar (therfor the whitelines may be a wiser choice)
i'm currently using the early 90's turbo legacy crossmember witht he "older" sway bar mounting method.
the brackets are tiny and wont house a bushing that supports a bar larger than 25mm[/QUOTE]
good to hear. I thought you were running the wrx crossmember and that the swaybars mount to the frame itself. I'll post another thread about the install and such
i'm currently using the early 90's turbo legacy crossmember witht he "older" sway bar mounting method.
the brackets are tiny and wont house a bushing that supports a bar larger than 25mm[/QUOTE]
good to hear. I thought you were running the wrx crossmember and that the swaybars mount to the frame itself. I'll post another thread about the install and such
| sstrano | 02-10-2006 12:15 PM |
A new batch of bars just came in today. All on backorder will be sent and we have about 15 more (in case any of you are the folks that called wanting one, but didn't order).
:)
:)
| fliz | 02-10-2006 12:33 PM |
[QUOTE=sstrano]A new batch of bars just came in today. All on backorder will be sent and we have about 15 more (in case any of you are the folks that called wanting one, but didn't order).
:)[/QUOTE]
Order submitted. :banana:
:)[/QUOTE]
Order submitted. :banana:
| psyber_0ptix | 02-10-2006 01:34 PM |
[QUOTE=sstrano]A new batch of bars just came in today. All on backorder will be sent and we have about 15 more (in case any of you are the folks that called wanting one, but didn't order).
:)[/QUOTE]
any way to make them fit an older impreza? :p
:)[/QUOTE]
any way to make them fit an older impreza? :p
| Calamity Jesus | 02-10-2006 02:35 PM |
[QUOTE=psyber_0ptix]any way to make them fit an older impreza? :p[/QUOTE]
I asked this question last week in another thread. The reply I got was that it would be much too big for our subframe. I installed my 25mm FSB last weekend and left a review in that thread.
[url=http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12579745&postcount=40]25mm Addco Front Swaybar[/url]
I asked this question last week in another thread. The reply I got was that it would be much too big for our subframe. I installed my 25mm FSB last weekend and left a review in that thread.
[url=http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12579745&postcount=40]25mm Addco Front Swaybar[/url]
| psyber_0ptix | 02-10-2006 02:41 PM |
addco is hollow or solid???
| Scott Farmer | 02-10-2006 05:08 PM |
Hollow
| sstrano | 02-10-2006 07:26 PM |
The 25mm bar is solid (and we carry that as well). Our 32mm bar for hte STi and WRX sedans are hollow.
| Fierysun | 02-19-2006 06:12 AM |
Try using Moly-Graph multi-purpose grease. That should solve your squeaking problem.
[QUOTE=ericdc]Lubrication.... I have had my Strano bar off the car 5 times now to relube it. It is my wifes daily driver (around 15k a year) and the damn bar just squeaks like crazy. I just took it completely off last week cleaned until it was spotless and relubed it. Here it is a week later (and not even a tank of gas) and it is squeaking loud again. I used Park Tool Polylube bike grease as recommended. [url]http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=8&item=PPL-1[/url]
Anyone have any clue how to make this thing quiet for more than a few days? I feel like I am in a 79 Ford pickup when I drive it anymore. I actually find myself driving it conservatively so I don't make the suspension move and squeak. Ugh.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=ericdc]Lubrication.... I have had my Strano bar off the car 5 times now to relube it. It is my wifes daily driver (around 15k a year) and the damn bar just squeaks like crazy. I just took it completely off last week cleaned until it was spotless and relubed it. Here it is a week later (and not even a tank of gas) and it is squeaking loud again. I used Park Tool Polylube bike grease as recommended. [url]http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=8&item=PPL-1[/url]
Anyone have any clue how to make this thing quiet for more than a few days? I feel like I am in a 79 Ford pickup when I drive it anymore. I actually find myself driving it conservatively so I don't make the suspension move and squeak. Ugh.[/QUOTE]
| GEARHEAD23 | 02-19-2006 12:37 PM |
Wrap the bar with Teflon tape, then grease it .= no noise
| AndrewSS | 02-19-2006 12:48 PM |
anti seize works awesomely... seriously its great (i used some high temp drivetrain grease then added in a very generous amount of antiseize on the 2 main bushings.)
| LeRoy | 03-24-2006 10:33 AM |
I'm going to throw my 2 cents worth in here too.
I bought and installed the 32mm Strano bar, before I installed it I called Sam to ask advice, he was very helpful. I did exactly as instructed (synthetic wheel bearing grease on the inside of the bar bushings). It was a difficult install because of the way the end links fit.
I am impressed, it made a very significant difference in the way the car handles. I was not impressed by the noise I got 2 days later. The noise was coming from the bar bushings not the endlinks. Although it is evident the center washers on the endlinks have hit the bracket several times, enough to bend and scar the brackets but not damage that will affect performance in my opinion.
I called Sam again and discussed it with him. He is a nice guy full of advice but I learned this is a work in progress. He offered advice on different methods to try to quiet the bar down but it was just that, advice, not true product support.
I took the bar off and upon close inspection I think the noise is due to the paint on the bar and the texture of the bar itself. The grease was still in place inside the bushings and the bar was coated with grease. The majority of the paint had been rubbed off the bar where the bushings run. The paint that had been rubbed off was "plied up" inside the bushings. It was very hard and had been pressed into the plastic of the bushings forming humps and bumps. I used a sharp knife to scrape the humps off the inside of the bushing, it was obvious this is paint not plastic. A close look at the bar showed several places where the paint humps had polished and or scratched the bar. There were places that were mirror smooth, scratched steel and scuffed black paint still in place. This leads me to believe the surface of the steel has high and low spots, the high spots rubbed the paint off and deposited it in the low spots where it packed and piled up.
I used a Scotchbrite pad to clean all the paint off the bar where the bushings run and scraped / scrubbed the inside of the bushing. I then wrapped the bar with teflon tape and coated it with the white grease that came with my shifter bushings (klick-it kit). So far no noise after about a week.
I considered putting the synthetic wheel bearing grease back but I'm too lazy/busy to experiment too much. My guess is it would work fine based on the amount left inside the bushings when I disassembled it.
Bottom line, my opinion is this could be a great product. I think Sam is a great guy but this isn't his main line and has not been developed as well as it could be. It does make quite a difference in the way a STi corners.
I bought and installed the 32mm Strano bar, before I installed it I called Sam to ask advice, he was very helpful. I did exactly as instructed (synthetic wheel bearing grease on the inside of the bar bushings). It was a difficult install because of the way the end links fit.
I am impressed, it made a very significant difference in the way the car handles. I was not impressed by the noise I got 2 days later. The noise was coming from the bar bushings not the endlinks. Although it is evident the center washers on the endlinks have hit the bracket several times, enough to bend and scar the brackets but not damage that will affect performance in my opinion.
I called Sam again and discussed it with him. He is a nice guy full of advice but I learned this is a work in progress. He offered advice on different methods to try to quiet the bar down but it was just that, advice, not true product support.
I took the bar off and upon close inspection I think the noise is due to the paint on the bar and the texture of the bar itself. The grease was still in place inside the bushings and the bar was coated with grease. The majority of the paint had been rubbed off the bar where the bushings run. The paint that had been rubbed off was "plied up" inside the bushings. It was very hard and had been pressed into the plastic of the bushings forming humps and bumps. I used a sharp knife to scrape the humps off the inside of the bushing, it was obvious this is paint not plastic. A close look at the bar showed several places where the paint humps had polished and or scratched the bar. There were places that were mirror smooth, scratched steel and scuffed black paint still in place. This leads me to believe the surface of the steel has high and low spots, the high spots rubbed the paint off and deposited it in the low spots where it packed and piled up.
I used a Scotchbrite pad to clean all the paint off the bar where the bushings run and scraped / scrubbed the inside of the bushing. I then wrapped the bar with teflon tape and coated it with the white grease that came with my shifter bushings (klick-it kit). So far no noise after about a week.
I considered putting the synthetic wheel bearing grease back but I'm too lazy/busy to experiment too much. My guess is it would work fine based on the amount left inside the bushings when I disassembled it.
Bottom line, my opinion is this could be a great product. I think Sam is a great guy but this isn't his main line and has not been developed as well as it could be. It does make quite a difference in the way a STi corners.
| AUTOwrXER | 03-24-2006 12:01 PM |
It sounds like maybe you overtorqued the brackets. If it's so tight that it took the paint off, how could the bar be moving freely? Try backing off the torque somewhat, IMO.
| GreasedLightning | 03-24-2006 07:01 PM |
The force required to twist a thick bar will shove the bar hard against the top of one bracket and the bottom of the other. Friction and heat will strip the paint off. The teflon tape will lower the friction which reduces the noise and heat as long as road grit doesn't get between the bar and the brackets.
| Aaron B | 03-25-2006 02:12 AM |
[QUOTE=AUTOwrXER]It sounds like maybe you overtorqued the brackets. If it's so tight that it took the paint off, how could the bar be moving freely? Try backing off the torque somewhat, IMO.[/QUOTE]
You bring up a good point, what would be a recommended torque for the brackets? I've had mine apart to regrease once after the install and I keep getting squeeks after a couple days.
You bring up a good point, what would be a recommended torque for the brackets? I've had mine apart to regrease once after the install and I keep getting squeeks after a couple days.
| LeRoy | 03-25-2006 02:45 AM |
I really don't think the torque of the brackets is the problem. The brackets lay against the frame and overtightening them won't compress the bushings further, it might break a bolt or stud though. I used my built in torque wrench (tight).
| sstrano | 03-27-2006 01:42 PM |
Urethane is hard, and a bit sticky, and squeaks are not uncommon with urethane bushings (as anyone with them in the control arms and so on can attest). The nature of the bar twisting in the urethane can cause some squeaks. That said, we want the bushings to be tight around the bar. Any play there makes the bar not as effective because when you turn in, the bar has to get to a point that it doesn't move to actually offer it's roll stiffness. In short, if the bushings were sloppy, the bar would shift and you'd get some nasty stuff happening. You do NOT want those things to happen. The bar is meant to be a performance part. Noise can be dealt with and/or fixed. Some folks care, some don't at all. They all want the handling associated with the bar. :)
It's very common for the paint or coating to wear off of a bar from friction. That's why you lube them. The issue here is that some folks have found things they prefer for this job. That is 100% fine. As long as the bar isn't bound up, whatever you want to use it just fine.....
It's very common for the paint or coating to wear off of a bar from friction. That's why you lube them. The issue here is that some folks have found things they prefer for this job. That is 100% fine. As long as the bar isn't bound up, whatever you want to use it just fine.....
| JPotter | 03-29-2006 06:37 PM |
Well I hate to say it but now my bar is all kinds of noisy as well.....
I put the Strano bar on two weeks ago and i've put over 500 miles on since (took a trip out of town). All was quite and great up until about 2 day ago, which would be the last about 20 miles. First I noticed a slight squeek, which didn't bother me at all, I expected some noise. But the squeek turned into a squeek with a slight bang.
Now I have a louder squeek along with a loud bang over uneven surfaces. I can kinda feel it in my feet through the floorboard. I can easily make the sound if I roll over a speedbump where the front wheels go over the bump at separate times.
It sounds like when my old MR2's rear sway endlink came undone and the bar was banging around. I checked the enlinks and they are still attached, what else should I check?
I put the Strano bar on two weeks ago and i've put over 500 miles on since (took a trip out of town). All was quite and great up until about 2 day ago, which would be the last about 20 miles. First I noticed a slight squeek, which didn't bother me at all, I expected some noise. But the squeek turned into a squeek with a slight bang.
Now I have a louder squeek along with a loud bang over uneven surfaces. I can kinda feel it in my feet through the floorboard. I can easily make the sound if I roll over a speedbump where the front wheels go over the bump at separate times.
It sounds like when my old MR2's rear sway endlink came undone and the bar was banging around. I checked the enlinks and they are still attached, what else should I check?
| AndrewSS | 03-29-2006 06:49 PM |
^ you need to lube!!!! I had those symptoms bad with my old WL bar, re lube it man!
| 112nick | 04-12-2006 10:36 PM |
Updates? jpotter, did you get rid of your noises? I'm curious if there are any vendors in the great northwest that have the strano bar for sale, or even the 29mm Whiteline XRD front sway bar. I've just purchased an '06 STi and I'm looking for some extra stability.
| LeRoy | 04-13-2006 07:43 AM |
Another quick update. Its been about 3 weeks and mine is still quiet. I slid under to give it a quick look amd I don't see much evidence of grease or teflon tape squirting out.
My rear strut noise is back though....
My rear strut noise is back though....
| JPotter | 05-11-2006 01:41 PM |
[QUOTE=112nick]Updates? jpotter, did you get rid of your noises? I'm curious if there are any vendors in the great northwest that have the strano bar for sale, or even the 29mm Whiteline XRD front sway bar. I've just purchased an '06 STi and I'm looking for some extra stability.[/QUOTE]
Sorry for the lenthy delay between responses, I wanted to wait awhile and see if the noise came back. After re-lubing and putting on some teflon tape so far after a month it is still quiet as stock. It turns out I did in fact need to relube the bushings. This time I used a lube call Formula 5 Bushing Lube (also called Pre-Lube at some places don't know why). Its made by Energy Suspension for urethane bushings.
The stuff is nasty, its so water resistant you can't really wash it off your hands. I had to rub it off on rags until I couldn't feel it anymore. Wear rubber gloves!
Sorry for the lenthy delay between responses, I wanted to wait awhile and see if the noise came back. After re-lubing and putting on some teflon tape so far after a month it is still quiet as stock. It turns out I did in fact need to relube the bushings. This time I used a lube call Formula 5 Bushing Lube (also called Pre-Lube at some places don't know why). Its made by Energy Suspension for urethane bushings.
The stuff is nasty, its so water resistant you can't really wash it off your hands. I had to rub it off on rags until I couldn't feel it anymore. Wear rubber gloves!
| makofoto | 05-11-2006 01:49 PM |
Use Liquid Glove or Gloves in a Bottle before handling stuff like that ... or try any heavy hand cream ...
| Corn-Picker | 05-11-2006 01:50 PM |
For everyone's info, I've had my bar on ~1-2 months and no noise as of yet. I lubed the bar (Walmart marine grease), put teflon tape around it, lubed over the teflon tape, and lubed the busings :lol: I had a ton of grease squirt out when I tightened it down, but I haven't heard a peep out of the bar yet *crosses fingers*
I have my first auto-x with the big bar this Sunday. It'll be hard to quantify the effect, as this will also be my first event on Kuhmo V700's (last auto-x tires were RE070s).
I should have a lot more grip than I did last year, whether that will translate into faster times remains to be seen.
I have my first auto-x with the big bar this Sunday. It'll be hard to quantify the effect, as this will also be my first event on Kuhmo V700's (last auto-x tires were RE070s).
I should have a lot more grip than I did last year, whether that will translate into faster times remains to be seen.
| DrBiggly | 05-11-2006 02:23 PM |
[QUOTE=JPotter]Sorry for the lenthy delay between responses, I wanted to wait awhile and see if the noise came back. After re-lubing and putting on some teflon tape so far after a month it is still quiet as stock. It turns out I did in fact need to relube the bushings. This time I used a lube call Formula 5 Bushing Lube (also called Pre-Lube at some places don't know why). Its made by Energy Suspension for urethane bushings.
The stuff is nasty, its so water resistant you can't really wash it off your hands. I had to rub it off on rags until I couldn't feel it anymore. Wear rubber gloves![/QUOTE]
Where would one find this particular lube? :)
-Biggly
The stuff is nasty, its so water resistant you can't really wash it off your hands. I had to rub it off on rags until I couldn't feel it anymore. Wear rubber gloves![/QUOTE]
Where would one find this particular lube? :)
-Biggly
| AndrewSS | 05-11-2006 02:44 PM |
my strano bars lube has gone dry, and the thing is going nuts, sooooo much noise from it - its so annoying. Well, I guess I gotta relube... I am going to wrap it with teflon under the bushings and then put some lube on over it... that formula 5 bushing lube is interesting... where do you find it? Anyway I dont look forward to relubing the thing, but it has to be done.
| P40vic | 05-11-2006 03:50 PM |
Many of you won't agree with this, but here's a tip from the offroad crowd that I've used and it works and hasn't required any maintenance in 9 months. Rough up the inside of the bushing with some sandpaper, then install with grease. The theory is that the smooth surface causes the squeaking, the roughed up surface doesn't, and it also holds the grease better. Of course you don't want to sand it so much that it becomes loose around the bar. YMMV
| JPotter | 05-11-2006 07:01 PM |
deleted
| JPotter | 05-11-2006 07:02 PM |
[QUOTE=AndrewSS]my strano bars lube has gone dry, and the thing is going nuts, sooooo much noise from it - its so annoying. Well, I guess I gotta relube... I am going to wrap it with teflon under the bushings and then put some lube on over it... that formula 5 bushing lube is interesting... where do you find it? Anyway I dont look forward to relubing the thing, but it has to be done.[/QUOTE]
I ordered the 8oz. tub from:
[url]http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9%2E11104[/url]
If you only want to use it once the also a "one time" use kit for like $3:
[url]http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9%2E11110[/url]
I also spoke with Arlyn Strano about the bar. She said you really need to use a heavy duty water resistant grease like the Formula 5 or Marine Grease. I think the Formula 5 is the way to go since the consistancy stays very thick, almost like undried silicone sealant - but this stuff won't dry and it seems to stay NASTY. But like I said its as quiet as stock, if it starts squeeking anytime soon I'll be sure to post here.
I ordered the 8oz. tub from:
[url]http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9%2E11104[/url]
If you only want to use it once the also a "one time" use kit for like $3:
[url]http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9%2E11110[/url]
I also spoke with Arlyn Strano about the bar. She said you really need to use a heavy duty water resistant grease like the Formula 5 or Marine Grease. I think the Formula 5 is the way to go since the consistancy stays very thick, almost like undried silicone sealant - but this stuff won't dry and it seems to stay NASTY. But like I said its as quiet as stock, if it starts squeeking anytime soon I'll be sure to post here.
| sil0nt | 05-12-2006 10:00 AM |
I get noise from my bar very occasionally, but its a distinct knock, not really a creak or bushing sound. I had the car up on a lift, and I noticed that the metal bracket holding the bushings has actually been bent away from the bar.. so my bar is contacting the bracket, it appears.
| AndrewSS | 05-12-2006 02:23 PM |
[QUOTE=JPotter]I ordered the 8oz. tub from:
[url]http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9%2E11104[/url]
If you only want to use it once the also a "one time" use kit for like $3:
[url]http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9%2E11110[/url]
I also spoke with Arlyn Strano about the bar. She said you really need to use a heavy duty water resistant grease like the Formula 5 or Marine Grease. I think the Formula 5 is the way to go since the consistancy stays very thick, almost like undried silicone sealant - but this stuff won't dry and it seems to stay NASTY. But like I said its as quiet as stock, if it starts squeeking anytime soon I'll be sure to post here.[/QUOTE]
ok, cool thanks for the links! :)
I plan to do the teflon tape wrap + grease combo like I did on my RSB
[url]http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9%2E11104[/url]
If you only want to use it once the also a "one time" use kit for like $3:
[url]http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9%2E11110[/url]
I also spoke with Arlyn Strano about the bar. She said you really need to use a heavy duty water resistant grease like the Formula 5 or Marine Grease. I think the Formula 5 is the way to go since the consistancy stays very thick, almost like undried silicone sealant - but this stuff won't dry and it seems to stay NASTY. But like I said its as quiet as stock, if it starts squeeking anytime soon I'll be sure to post here.[/QUOTE]
ok, cool thanks for the links! :)
I plan to do the teflon tape wrap + grease combo like I did on my RSB
| copterdr | 05-12-2006 03:30 PM |
[QUOTE=sil0nt]I get noise from my bar very occasionally, but its a distinct knock, not really a creak or bushing sound. I had the car up on a lift, and I noticed that the metal bracket holding the bushings has actually been bent away from the bar.. so my bar is contacting the bracket, it appears.[/QUOTE]
I had to grind part of my bracket (the left one) It was making contact on the bar. No big deal. This Bar is the greatest. :)
I had to grind part of my bracket (the left one) It was making contact on the bar. No big deal. This Bar is the greatest. :)
| Corn-Picker | 05-15-2006 09:04 AM |
Had my first auto-x with the new bar on yesterday.
In five runs, I managed to hit five cones, all of them on the inside of the corners, so I guess the new bar works. The bar definitely eliminated the understeer. I only understeered once, and that was when I tried to take a corner about 10 mph too quickly :lol: The bar also made transitions through slaloms less sloppy.
In five runs, I managed to hit five cones, all of them on the inside of the corners, so I guess the new bar works. The bar definitely eliminated the understeer. I only understeered once, and that was when I tried to take a corner about 10 mph too quickly :lol: The bar also made transitions through slaloms less sloppy.
| BlueSTI4Me | 05-15-2006 10:32 PM |
[QUOTE=copterdr]I had to grind part of my bracket (the left one) It was making contact on the bar. No big deal. This Bar is the greatest. :)[/QUOTE]
Did you install all of the bushings and washers supplied with the kit?
Blue
Did you install all of the bushings and washers supplied with the kit?
Blue
| kursplat | 05-16-2006 01:20 AM |
[QUOTE=BlueSTI4Me]Did you install all of the bushings and washers supplied with the kit?
Blue[/QUOTE]yup, i hung the bar from the middle bushings first. then for the endlinks i installed the bolts from the bottom. stacked everything but the last bushing/washer and used a small floorjack to compress everything. makes it fairly easy.
good luck
Blue[/QUOTE]yup, i hung the bar from the middle bushings first. then for the endlinks i installed the bolts from the bottom. stacked everything but the last bushing/washer and used a small floorjack to compress everything. makes it fairly easy.
good luck
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