| WagonRX | 11-04-2001 09:28 PM |
Removed Wagon Roof Rails (long)
[IMG]http://www.tein.co.jp/ti/comment/img/us302.jpg[/IMG]
Okay, That's not my car but it gives you a look how it will look like.
The removal of the wagon roof rails took about 2 hours. The headliner must be removed to access the hardware that holds the rail to the body.
The tools needed:
Phillips screwdriver
Straight screwdriver
10 & 14 mm sockets
Ratchet
Pickle fork door panel removal tool
1 - Remove the sunvisors including center visor. No brainer. Use a #2 Phillips head screw driver and just remove each screw.
2 - Remove all the grab handles. Under each end of the handle there is a cap. Becareful not to damage these caps because you will reuse them. I did not use anything to pry them off. The trick to get them off is to pull the handle and twist at the same time. With the other hand, simply pull on the covers. Be persistant. They will come off.
3 - Remove the seat belt attachments. All the seat belt anchors have covers. Becareful not to damage them. I used a straight head screw driver to gently pop them off. Twist the seat belt anchor to access the under side. I pryed them off there so if I did mark'em up, you won't see it. Under all the covers you will find a 14 mm bolt. Remove the bolts.
4 - Remove the interior panels. Here is where it gets fun. I started on the A-pillar (front @ windshield). Simply grab onto the top of the moulding about 3 inches down from the top and just pull towards yourself. They will pop free from the top. I just poped them loose @ the top and left them in the dash hanging free. Next the B-pillar. You will have to remove both upper and lower sections. Lossen the front and rear door jams sill covers. They will pop free by pulling them straght up. Get your finger underneth the moulding and pull up. On the rear area of the lower moulding you will find a push in plastic snap rivet. To remove the rivet all you need to do is use a straight screwdriver and gently slide it between the moulding and the rivet head. Not alot of force is needed. It will just slide right out. Also remove the part of the rivet left inside of the moulding. Now you must slowly remove the lower moulding by pulling over the door opening lip. Start at the side @ the front door by the top. You will have to work the moulding over the lip. The only way I can describe it is like replaceing a tire off a rim. Start at the top and slowly work it loose to the bottom. Once the foward edge is loose, simply pull the moulding towards the rear. It will come right out. The upper B-pillar moulding must be pulled from the top (same methond as the A-pillar). Once it comes loose at the top, slide the moulding upwards. The lower clip is too tight to come out.
5 - Remove the C-D pillar. Start by removing the rear cargo shade. Under those points where the shade goes into the panel you will find a phillps head screw. Remove the screw. At the rear you will also find a phillps head screw where the shade slides into. Remove that screw. Now using the same method as before, pull the moulding loose. I started at the C-pillar and then to the D-pilar. Once it was loose at both ends I worked it free by pulling straight out. At the same time a got my fingers in between the glass and the panel to help pop it free.
6 - Remove the rear moulding at the top of the cargo door area. It will come off by pulling straight down. Start on one side and work it free to the other.
7 - Repeat 4-6 on the other side.
8 - Remove to foward map light. Under the lens you will see two phillips head screws. Remove them. I used [URL=http://subaruparts.com/install/2002icompassmirror.pdf]subaruparts.com[/URL] to figure out how it comes out. Becareful not damage the lens. DO NOT TWIST the screwdriver to remove the lens. Just insert into slot and pry up. That will keep you from marking up the dome light. I learned the hard way. Unclip the wires to remove the entire assembly.
8 - Remove the snap in retainers that hold the headliner up. This is where you will need the pickle fork tool. There are 3 spots to remove these push-in type retainers. Under the rear moulding (step 6) you will find two of these. Slide the tool in between the headliner and the metal body to pop them free. The center tabs are just above the rear passenger area. These come out very easily. They are two-piece type so just gently remove the tab. I got my finger nail in between the tab and the headliner. It comes out without any force. These two pieces stay together and will pull out once the top pops out. The last roof tab is under the center visor area. This one was a mother but will come out using the pickle fork tool. Slide the tool in between the headliner and metal body.
9 - Remove dome light. The rear has a clear lens that has to be removed to access two phillpis head screws. Use a straight head screwdriver to remove the lens. Use the same methond as the other dome light. I left the wiring together and just slide the dome light assembly through the hole in the headliner.
10 - The headliner will now be free. Gently losen it free around all the rubber weatherstrips. Remove the headliner assembly through the rear cargo door. It might be helpful to have a friend guide it out. Put it some place safe where your cat won't claw on it or someone won't step on it.
11 - You will now see the rear attachment points where the roof rails bolts down at. The front attachment points are under the grab handle mounts. All bolts are 10mm. Remove the grabhandle mount by removing the two bolts. Now remove all the nuts that hold the rack in place. Your there. It's off now.
12 - At this point you will notice 8 holes under the roof rack attachment points that will leak water through if not sealed. I used 8 expansion plugs to seal em up. I got them @ Home Depot. The size is: #8-32 x 15/32. You will also need 8 screws: #8-32 x 1 inch.
12 - Insert the expansion plugs. The front must be inserted from the inside working the top through the hole. Insert one of the screws and tighten it down. At the same time hold onto the plug from the inside to keep it from turning. The rear has one easy one where you can just pop the plug in from the outside. The other one is the hardest. It must be inserted from the inside and it's hard to get your fingers up into the hole. Put a some vasaline on the plugs to help them slide in without damaing them.
13 - Reverse the step to reassemly. Becarful with all the weatherstrip so you don't deform or cut them. Dont forget to reinstall the grab handle mounting plates before you reinstall the headliner. Also, It's a good idea to wash your hands before handling the headliner so you don't mark it up.
Now step back and check it out. Looks great. I just need the roof mouldings to finish the job. The Canadian TS Model comes without the roof rails so you can use them. I don't have the part #'s from these rails but I will call a Canadian dealer on Monday to order these mouldings. If anyone knows the part #'s let me know. I'm also selling the roof rails that I've taken off and would like to trade mouldings with a Canadian owner. Anybody want'em ?
Okay, That's not my car but it gives you a look how it will look like.
The removal of the wagon roof rails took about 2 hours. The headliner must be removed to access the hardware that holds the rail to the body.
The tools needed:
Phillips screwdriver
Straight screwdriver
10 & 14 mm sockets
Ratchet
Pickle fork door panel removal tool
1 - Remove the sunvisors including center visor. No brainer. Use a #2 Phillips head screw driver and just remove each screw.
2 - Remove all the grab handles. Under each end of the handle there is a cap. Becareful not to damage these caps because you will reuse them. I did not use anything to pry them off. The trick to get them off is to pull the handle and twist at the same time. With the other hand, simply pull on the covers. Be persistant. They will come off.
3 - Remove the seat belt attachments. All the seat belt anchors have covers. Becareful not to damage them. I used a straight head screw driver to gently pop them off. Twist the seat belt anchor to access the under side. I pryed them off there so if I did mark'em up, you won't see it. Under all the covers you will find a 14 mm bolt. Remove the bolts.
4 - Remove the interior panels. Here is where it gets fun. I started on the A-pillar (front @ windshield). Simply grab onto the top of the moulding about 3 inches down from the top and just pull towards yourself. They will pop free from the top. I just poped them loose @ the top and left them in the dash hanging free. Next the B-pillar. You will have to remove both upper and lower sections. Lossen the front and rear door jams sill covers. They will pop free by pulling them straght up. Get your finger underneth the moulding and pull up. On the rear area of the lower moulding you will find a push in plastic snap rivet. To remove the rivet all you need to do is use a straight screwdriver and gently slide it between the moulding and the rivet head. Not alot of force is needed. It will just slide right out. Also remove the part of the rivet left inside of the moulding. Now you must slowly remove the lower moulding by pulling over the door opening lip. Start at the side @ the front door by the top. You will have to work the moulding over the lip. The only way I can describe it is like replaceing a tire off a rim. Start at the top and slowly work it loose to the bottom. Once the foward edge is loose, simply pull the moulding towards the rear. It will come right out. The upper B-pillar moulding must be pulled from the top (same methond as the A-pillar). Once it comes loose at the top, slide the moulding upwards. The lower clip is too tight to come out.
5 - Remove the C-D pillar. Start by removing the rear cargo shade. Under those points where the shade goes into the panel you will find a phillps head screw. Remove the screw. At the rear you will also find a phillps head screw where the shade slides into. Remove that screw. Now using the same method as before, pull the moulding loose. I started at the C-pillar and then to the D-pilar. Once it was loose at both ends I worked it free by pulling straight out. At the same time a got my fingers in between the glass and the panel to help pop it free.
6 - Remove the rear moulding at the top of the cargo door area. It will come off by pulling straight down. Start on one side and work it free to the other.
7 - Repeat 4-6 on the other side.
8 - Remove to foward map light. Under the lens you will see two phillips head screws. Remove them. I used [URL=http://subaruparts.com/install/2002icompassmirror.pdf]subaruparts.com[/URL] to figure out how it comes out. Becareful not damage the lens. DO NOT TWIST the screwdriver to remove the lens. Just insert into slot and pry up. That will keep you from marking up the dome light. I learned the hard way. Unclip the wires to remove the entire assembly.
8 - Remove the snap in retainers that hold the headliner up. This is where you will need the pickle fork tool. There are 3 spots to remove these push-in type retainers. Under the rear moulding (step 6) you will find two of these. Slide the tool in between the headliner and the metal body to pop them free. The center tabs are just above the rear passenger area. These come out very easily. They are two-piece type so just gently remove the tab. I got my finger nail in between the tab and the headliner. It comes out without any force. These two pieces stay together and will pull out once the top pops out. The last roof tab is under the center visor area. This one was a mother but will come out using the pickle fork tool. Slide the tool in between the headliner and metal body.
9 - Remove dome light. The rear has a clear lens that has to be removed to access two phillpis head screws. Use a straight head screwdriver to remove the lens. Use the same methond as the other dome light. I left the wiring together and just slide the dome light assembly through the hole in the headliner.
10 - The headliner will now be free. Gently losen it free around all the rubber weatherstrips. Remove the headliner assembly through the rear cargo door. It might be helpful to have a friend guide it out. Put it some place safe where your cat won't claw on it or someone won't step on it.
11 - You will now see the rear attachment points where the roof rails bolts down at. The front attachment points are under the grab handle mounts. All bolts are 10mm. Remove the grabhandle mount by removing the two bolts. Now remove all the nuts that hold the rack in place. Your there. It's off now.
12 - At this point you will notice 8 holes under the roof rack attachment points that will leak water through if not sealed. I used 8 expansion plugs to seal em up. I got them @ Home Depot. The size is: #8-32 x 15/32. You will also need 8 screws: #8-32 x 1 inch.
12 - Insert the expansion plugs. The front must be inserted from the inside working the top through the hole. Insert one of the screws and tighten it down. At the same time hold onto the plug from the inside to keep it from turning. The rear has one easy one where you can just pop the plug in from the outside. The other one is the hardest. It must be inserted from the inside and it's hard to get your fingers up into the hole. Put a some vasaline on the plugs to help them slide in without damaing them.
13 - Reverse the step to reassemly. Becarful with all the weatherstrip so you don't deform or cut them. Dont forget to reinstall the grab handle mounting plates before you reinstall the headliner. Also, It's a good idea to wash your hands before handling the headliner so you don't mark it up.
Now step back and check it out. Looks great. I just need the roof mouldings to finish the job. The Canadian TS Model comes without the roof rails so you can use them. I don't have the part #'s from these rails but I will call a Canadian dealer on Monday to order these mouldings. If anyone knows the part #'s let me know. I'm also selling the roof rails that I've taken off and would like to trade mouldings with a Canadian owner. Anybody want'em ?
| LAYLOW | 11-05-2001 01:20 AM |
Does this apply for the old wagon too I guess.
| Kostamojen | 11-05-2001 01:41 AM |
*drool*
I really like the wagon now! :eek:
I really like the wagon now! :eek:
| WagonRX | 11-05-2001 01:45 AM |
Here's some more pics
[IMG]http://www.tein.co.jp/ti/comment/img/us301.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.tein.co.jp/ti/comment/img/us303.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.tein.co.jp/ti/comment/img/us301.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.tein.co.jp/ti/comment/img/us303.jpg[/IMG]
| dbrier | 11-05-2001 09:12 AM |
Thanks
Thanks again Russell! :)
| BigElm | 11-05-2001 09:29 AM |
Damn....Now THAT'S what I'm talking about....
Good stuff WagonRX!;)
Good stuff WagonRX!;)
| wrx182 | 11-05-2001 10:00 AM |
hmmmm...can you say my weekend project?:D thanks
| IceOwl | 11-05-2001 01:22 PM |
personally
wagons look better with the rails, so bland without them, not crazy enough for a wagon to look right
| H8YNERS | 11-05-2001 01:30 PM |
First off...I like the "clean" look of no rails but this is not why I bought the wagon. I have a need to carry skis and bikes so this option is a no-go for me.
Secondly, in regards to the pics of the blue wagon, what rims are these?? They're really clean and tight, IMHO :rolleyes:
Stephen
Secondly, in regards to the pics of the blue wagon, what rims are these?? They're really clean and tight, IMHO :rolleyes:
Stephen
| WagonRX | 11-05-2001 02:17 PM |
Laylow,
I not sure if it does. It might be the same.
H8yners,
The wheels are made by Enkei (I assume because of the stickers on the side of the car) and are 18 x 7.5 48et. I don't think these are available here in the US.
I not sure if it does. It might be the same.
H8yners,
The wheels are made by Enkei (I assume because of the stickers on the side of the car) and are 18 x 7.5 48et. I don't think these are available here in the US.
| BigElm | 11-05-2001 03:40 PM |
When I get my wagon, I won't have the need for the rails either.
WagonRX:
Can you post pics of the top of the roof? Just to see how it looks, I want to get a feel of what I'm facing when the time comes ;)
WagonRX:
Can you post pics of the top of the roof? Just to see how it looks, I want to get a feel of what I'm facing when the time comes ;)
| H8YNERS | 11-05-2001 06:31 PM |
Thanks WagonRX:
Figures that the wheels aren't available in the US of A! Oh well...maybe they'll become available as the aftermarket continues to take off for the WRX. Here's hoping! :)
Stephen
Stephen
| WagonRX | 11-06-2001 01:26 PM |
Here are the part #'s for the Canadian roof mouldings. Left side is 91046FE010 and right side is 91046FE000. I just ordered mine through [URL=http://www.subaruparts.com/]subaruparts.com[/URL] and they have them in thier data base. They sell for $ 51.44 each. I'll update when I get them installed.
Here's another wagon without roof rails
[URL=http://www.car-promenade.co.jp/liberal/17.html]pics[/URL]
Here's another wagon without roof rails
[URL=http://www.car-promenade.co.jp/liberal/17.html]pics[/URL]
| dbrier | 11-06-2001 09:39 PM |
Wow! $51 each. My cheap modification idea just got expensive. If you are going to do it, at least do it right.
| WagonRX | 11-20-2001 10:05 PM |
I got the new mouldings today. They fit and look perfect. It took about 10 min in the dark with a drop light.
The old mouldings will pop straight off. Pull upwards and they will come loose. Becareful not to loose the clips because they will be needed to resecure the new mouldings. The clips will slid off the old mouldings. Take the clips and slide them back on the attachment points of the roof. You will see how they slide back on once you are there. Keep the clips flush with the outside edge. Sounds confusing now but again you will see what I mean. You will notice that you will be short 1 clip on each side. This is because the roof rails covered one attachment point. I am not worried about the new mouldings falling off but I guess you could order 2 when you order the mouldings. Make sure to space the clips out evenly. I think the one empty spot I chose was the third from the rear. Just use your best judgement. The rails will now be installed from the front to the back. Insert the new moulding and make sure that the moulding is under the front windshield weatherstrip. This is the side with a guide-clip attached to it. Now press down at the spot where the clips were. Becareful not to bend the new mouldings. They will sit flush on the outer edge but leave a gap on the inboard edge. Look at the old mouldings to see what I mean.
Just a side note. The roof rails will rub the paint some and will need to be polished out. It's probably better to polish the roof without the mouldings so you don't get compond on them. I couldn't wait. It's probably also better to do this mod early so to minimze the rubbing of the paint.
I will get a hold a digital camera this weekend and post the final pics.
Enjoy,
Russell
The old mouldings will pop straight off. Pull upwards and they will come loose. Becareful not to loose the clips because they will be needed to resecure the new mouldings. The clips will slid off the old mouldings. Take the clips and slide them back on the attachment points of the roof. You will see how they slide back on once you are there. Keep the clips flush with the outside edge. Sounds confusing now but again you will see what I mean. You will notice that you will be short 1 clip on each side. This is because the roof rails covered one attachment point. I am not worried about the new mouldings falling off but I guess you could order 2 when you order the mouldings. Make sure to space the clips out evenly. I think the one empty spot I chose was the third from the rear. Just use your best judgement. The rails will now be installed from the front to the back. Insert the new moulding and make sure that the moulding is under the front windshield weatherstrip. This is the side with a guide-clip attached to it. Now press down at the spot where the clips were. Becareful not to bend the new mouldings. They will sit flush on the outer edge but leave a gap on the inboard edge. Look at the old mouldings to see what I mean.
Just a side note. The roof rails will rub the paint some and will need to be polished out. It's probably better to polish the roof without the mouldings so you don't get compond on them. I couldn't wait. It's probably also better to do this mod early so to minimze the rubbing of the paint.
I will get a hold a digital camera this weekend and post the final pics.
Enjoy,
Russell
| dbrier | 11-21-2001 09:32 AM |
I am guessing with the new Canadian roof trim, you do not need the expansion plugs to fill the holes, right?
I can't wait to see the pictures.
Thanks again for the great write up.
I can't wait to see the pictures.
Thanks again for the great write up.
| Tuning Factory Inc. | 11-21-2001 10:04 AM |
I was wondering that too and I thought you'd still need the plugs to cover the holes since I doubt that cover is water proof. Please let us know. I HATE these gay roof rails with a passion. I'll have to take an afternoon and remove them soon.
| wrx182 | 11-21-2001 06:44 PM |
You do need the expansion plugs with the mouldings in order to keep the water out.
Hey Dan - have fun trying to find the expansion plugs around here. I tried 3 different home depots and couldn't find them - the help at those stores is useless. But Russell hooked me up.
Hey Dan - have fun trying to find the expansion plugs around here. I tried 3 different home depots and couldn't find them - the help at those stores is useless. But Russell hooked me up.
| WagonRX | 11-21-2001 08:19 PM |
Jim (WRX182),
So did you get the plugs and new mouldings ?
So did you get the plugs and new mouldings ?
| wrx182 | 11-21-2001 09:15 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by WagonRX [/i]
[B]Jim (WRX182),
So did you get the plugs and new mouldings ? [/B][/QUOTE]
I'm expecting the plugs from you anyday now. I did mail out a check to you also. I haven't gotten the mouldings yet - haven't even heard from subaruparts.com about my order status. I'll have to send them an email and see what's up. So how do you like it? Also, you have any idea of the part numbers of those clips?
Thanks again Russell.
Jim
[B]Jim (WRX182),
So did you get the plugs and new mouldings ? [/B][/QUOTE]
I'm expecting the plugs from you anyday now. I did mail out a check to you also. I haven't gotten the mouldings yet - haven't even heard from subaruparts.com about my order status. I'll have to send them an email and see what's up. So how do you like it? Also, you have any idea of the part numbers of those clips?
Thanks again Russell.
Jim
| WagonRX | 11-22-2001 01:15 AM |
Jim,
I think they subaruparts.com is always slow but they do have the best prices. I e-mail "C. Scott Williams" <[email protected]>" when I send an inquiry and always get a respones. He's the parts director. I think it looks great ! You can't even tell that the roof rails were even there. As far as the part #'s for the clips, I don't know. When I was installing the mouldings I didn't think about looking at the clips for a part #. I guess I was too excited. The plugs were sent out Sunday so I would think you would get them anyday. I hope they show up before the weekend so you can do the destall of the rails.
Russell
I think they subaruparts.com is always slow but they do have the best prices. I e-mail "C. Scott Williams" <[email protected]>" when I send an inquiry and always get a respones. He's the parts director. I think it looks great ! You can't even tell that the roof rails were even there. As far as the part #'s for the clips, I don't know. When I was installing the mouldings I didn't think about looking at the clips for a part #. I guess I was too excited. The plugs were sent out Sunday so I would think you would get them anyday. I hope they show up before the weekend so you can do the destall of the rails.
Russell
| moss | 11-22-2001 08:00 PM |
So is it now a 5 door WRX hatchback? :)
| wrx182 | 11-23-2001 02:15 PM |
Russell,
Great news dude - the plugs & stuff came today...I'm starting the whole project right now. Thanks again man - and your check should be there tomorrow or monday. My AEM CAI should be here today also, I hope that comes so that I can do this all at once and be ready to show off my stuff at the track tomorrow.
Thanks again man,
Jim
Great news dude - the plugs & stuff came today...I'm starting the whole project right now. Thanks again man - and your check should be there tomorrow or monday. My AEM CAI should be here today also, I hope that comes so that I can do this all at once and be ready to show off my stuff at the track tomorrow.
Thanks again man,
Jim
| Tuning Factory Inc. | 11-23-2001 11:29 PM |
Jim know any local source for the little parts? I plan to do mine soon. My side skirts should be here next week.
| robert99b | 11-24-2001 01:47 AM |
Great writeup! I just picked up a wagon, and wanted to get rid of the roof rack. Glad the how-to was available, so I didn't have to tear everything apart and possibly break something.
What are expansion plugs? Can you please post a picture of this?
Thanks!
What are expansion plugs? Can you please post a picture of this?
Thanks!
| wrx182 | 11-28-2001 08:48 AM |
The expansion plugs are little rubber plugs with a flared top on them and a bolt hole through the center. The screws kept jamming when I was putting them in - so I just put in the plugs and covered / surrounded them with silicon sealant - Worked great.
My moldiings are on their way, finally.
Here is what the expansion plug package says (compliments of Russell):
EXPANSION NUT
COARSE THREAD
USS
# 8-32 x 15/32"
4.2
STEEL / RUBBER
Dr # 511 1 Pcs
030699839582 (below UPC Bars)
CROWN BOLT INC.
You also need machine screws #8-32 x 1" Zinc Plated.
And one other thing:
Besure to do this while there is plenty of daylight - and make sure you have plenty for about 2+ hours. This mod is a pain in the ass...Getting all the plastic panels back into place is the worst part...Overall, I give this mod a 6 out of 10 on the pain-in-the-ass scale...But it looks great when your done.
Jim
My moldiings are on their way, finally.
Here is what the expansion plug package says (compliments of Russell):
EXPANSION NUT
COARSE THREAD
USS
# 8-32 x 15/32"
4.2
STEEL / RUBBER
Dr # 511 1 Pcs
030699839582 (below UPC Bars)
CROWN BOLT INC.
You also need machine screws #8-32 x 1" Zinc Plated.
And one other thing:
Besure to do this while there is plenty of daylight - and make sure you have plenty for about 2+ hours. This mod is a pain in the ass...Getting all the plastic panels back into place is the worst part...Overall, I give this mod a 6 out of 10 on the pain-in-the-ass scale...But it looks great when your done.
Jim
| robert99b | 11-28-2001 01:28 PM |
Thanks! It's on my mod list under 'definitely do' :D
| Kartoffel | 01-16-2002 01:40 AM |
I just got my roof moulding parts from subaruparts.com The invoice was for:
91046FE000 MOULDING ROOF RH
91046FE010 MOULDING ROOF LH
But only the RH moulding is correct. The LH one is a foot too long and it's curved. I'm pretty sure that it's for an Impreza or Legacy sedan.
Everyone, be sure that your parts numbers are correct. I believe subaruparts.com screwed up my order as an honest mistake, but make sure that they send you the right stuff!
Tomorrow morning I'm going to try to call subaruparts.com and send back the wrong moulding. Hopefully they'll refund me the cost of shipping since it was their mistake in sending the wrong part.
91046FE000 MOULDING ROOF RH
91046FE010 MOULDING ROOF LH
But only the RH moulding is correct. The LH one is a foot too long and it's curved. I'm pretty sure that it's for an Impreza or Legacy sedan.
Everyone, be sure that your parts numbers are correct. I believe subaruparts.com screwed up my order as an honest mistake, but make sure that they send you the right stuff!
Tomorrow morning I'm going to try to call subaruparts.com and send back the wrong moulding. Hopefully they'll refund me the cost of shipping since it was their mistake in sending the wrong part.
| WagonRX | 01-16-2002 10:55 AM |
Kartoffel,
Sorry to hear about your luck. The parts is director C. Scott Williams. I'd contact him. I'm sure they will take of you.
Russell
Sorry to hear about your luck. The parts is director C. Scott Williams. I'd contact him. I'm sure they will take of you.
Russell
| Kartoffel | 01-16-2002 06:03 PM |
SubaruParts.com contacted me today and we've already worked out a solution, I think. :D
To ship the mystery lefthand roof moulding back to Tacoma would end up costing me $50-$80 because it's 6 feet long, curved and I dont' have a l33t vendor shipping discount.
Scott told me to just keep the moulding and they'd ship me a lefthand MY02 Impreza Wagon moulding as soon as they get one in stock.
I felt bad about them losing out on that sedan moulding (or whatever it may be), especially since they already undercut local dealerships so much. Scott thought it would be cheaper for all parties involved for me to simply not send back the sedan moulding. :(
For the time being I've got moulding on one side only and a bare channel on the left. Holes are currently plugged with exterior grade silicone caulking, since no hardware store in the known universe seems to carry those darn expansion nut things.
WagonRX, thanks for posting the instructions. I printed 'em out and was able to get the whole job done in just over 2 hours.
To ship the mystery lefthand roof moulding back to Tacoma would end up costing me $50-$80 because it's 6 feet long, curved and I dont' have a l33t vendor shipping discount.
Scott told me to just keep the moulding and they'd ship me a lefthand MY02 Impreza Wagon moulding as soon as they get one in stock.
I felt bad about them losing out on that sedan moulding (or whatever it may be), especially since they already undercut local dealerships so much. Scott thought it would be cheaper for all parties involved for me to simply not send back the sedan moulding. :(
For the time being I've got moulding on one side only and a bare channel on the left. Holes are currently plugged with exterior grade silicone caulking, since no hardware store in the known universe seems to carry those darn expansion nut things.
WagonRX, thanks for posting the instructions. I printed 'em out and was able to get the whole job done in just over 2 hours.
| Evan J. Kelly | 01-16-2002 06:29 PM |
wrx182 did it. an he got the expansion plugs from mwagonRX too.
It looks infinetly cleaner.
It looks infinetly cleaner.
| kerrym | 05-28-2002 11:19 PM |
Hi all,
Great descriptions of how to remove the rails. Was wondering about mounting a Yakima or Thule bike rack on the car after the rails are removed and the plugs put in. Do the plugs stick up at all? After the Canadian strips are put in, is there anything sticking up that would interfere with mounting a bike rack? Don't like the look of the rails, but do need to carry a few bikes from time to time, and don't mind having a bike rack on just during those times.
Thanks much,
Kerry Montgomery
Great descriptions of how to remove the rails. Was wondering about mounting a Yakima or Thule bike rack on the car after the rails are removed and the plugs put in. Do the plugs stick up at all? After the Canadian strips are put in, is there anything sticking up that would interfere with mounting a bike rack? Don't like the look of the rails, but do need to carry a few bikes from time to time, and don't mind having a bike rack on just during those times.
Thanks much,
Kerry Montgomery
| gtwagon941 | 06-04-2002 01:40 AM |
pictures please
WagonRX:
Any pics yet. I've pretty interested in this whole deal but was wondering if it would be the same for the rails on my 98 gt wagon?
Thanks
Jared
Any pics yet. I've pretty interested in this whole deal but was wondering if it would be the same for the rails on my 98 gt wagon?
Thanks
Jared
| TypeRex | 08-13-2002 11:48 AM |
Holy Shipping!!
$75 to ship these moldings!! Ouch, time to bend over.
Anyone bought these moldings through their local Subaru dealer?
Anyone bought these moldings through their local Subaru dealer?
| WagonRX | 08-13-2002 02:15 PM |
I gave up on subaruparts.com. They are too slow. I get parts through [URL=http://www.renickmotorsports.com]Renick Subaru[/URL] . Ask for Brett in parts @ 714-680-0222. He'll quote you parts and shipping over the phone. He seems to have the same prices as them also.
| wayoutwest | 08-13-2002 04:24 PM |
FWIW, I also got my replacement trim pieces from Renick (that's where I bought my car). It took like a week to get them, but thats pretty quick considering they are from out of the country.
| MK19 | 05-11-2003 06:16 PM |
Plugs- detailed pic
OK, I did mine Saturday- sweet- simple and I love the look!!! I followed the original write up, although I did not use a pickle fork- didn't need it. the entire interior was stripped in about 45 minutes. To plug up the holes, I used these from Lowes:
5mm Nylon Rivet Screw In Part number 793619 Qty (2)
I inserted mine from the top. They worked well and I sealed them in and out with GE pure silicone.
Also, got my rails from Jamie (subie gal) over at [url]www.allsubaru.com[/url] total shipped was only $125!!!!
[IMG]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-5/188613/AUT_0267.JPG[/IMG]
5mm Nylon Rivet Screw In Part number 793619 Qty (2)
I inserted mine from the top. They worked well and I sealed them in and out with GE pure silicone.
Also, got my rails from Jamie (subie gal) over at [url]www.allsubaru.com[/url] total shipped was only $125!!!!
[IMG]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-5/188613/AUT_0267.JPG[/IMG]
| sonicblue | 05-12-2003 08:54 AM |
Here's my $0.02......
I did mine a while back, too. To seal my holes, I used simple 1/4" and 5/16" nylon plugs. I forget how many of each - IIRC, there are two 5/16" round holes, one 1/4" round hole and an oval-shaped round hole that you need a 1/4" plug for. For the round holes, the plugs are perfect - they have little tabs and just "snap" into place. The plug isn't a great fit in the oval hole but it's very good. If you're going to do this, just buy 8 of each plug (they're like $0.20 each) and return what you don't use. I then covered the plugs with a little dollop of exterior-grade black silicone sealant.
[IMG]http://tishandtighe.20m.com/wrx/norails1.jpg[/IMG]
I did mine a while back, too. To seal my holes, I used simple 1/4" and 5/16" nylon plugs. I forget how many of each - IIRC, there are two 5/16" round holes, one 1/4" round hole and an oval-shaped round hole that you need a 1/4" plug for. For the round holes, the plugs are perfect - they have little tabs and just "snap" into place. The plug isn't a great fit in the oval hole but it's very good. If you're going to do this, just buy 8 of each plug (they're like $0.20 each) and return what you don't use. I then covered the plugs with a little dollop of exterior-grade black silicone sealant.
[IMG]http://tishandtighe.20m.com/wrx/norails1.jpg[/IMG]
| Bolster | 05-13-2003 09:24 PM |
I also noticed that it was $75 to ship the mouldings. Can't they be rolled up, or are they harder than I'm thinking they are?
| pittkid333 | 05-13-2003 10:33 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Bolster [/i]
[B]I also noticed that it was $75 to ship the mouldings. Can't they be rolled up, or are they harder than I'm thinking they are? [/B][/QUOTE]
Just go to you dealer the are a "normal" order part.
[B]I also noticed that it was $75 to ship the mouldings. Can't they be rolled up, or are they harder than I'm thinking they are? [/B][/QUOTE]
Just go to you dealer the are a "normal" order part.
| WagonRX | 05-14-2003 03:10 AM |
Nice to see this post come back to life. Mine's been done for about 1 1/2 years now with no extra sealant and I have NO leaks at all. I wonder how many wagon owners have removed them ?
Russell
Russell
| sonicblue | 05-14-2003 09:19 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Bolster [/i]
[B]I also noticed that it was $75 to ship the mouldings. Can't they be rolled up, or are they harder than I'm thinking they are? [/B][/QUOTE]
I hear SubieGal has a great price on them - IIRC, her price is lower than a dealer and shipping is low, low, low. My dealer gets stuff in quick (3 days, I think), so my impatience led me to order from them, but I think Jamie would have saved me about $25.
No, they definitely can't be rolled up - they're barely flexible.
[B]I also noticed that it was $75 to ship the mouldings. Can't they be rolled up, or are they harder than I'm thinking they are? [/B][/QUOTE]
I hear SubieGal has a great price on them - IIRC, her price is lower than a dealer and shipping is low, low, low. My dealer gets stuff in quick (3 days, I think), so my impatience led me to order from them, but I think Jamie would have saved me about $25.
No, they definitely can't be rolled up - they're barely flexible.
| dbrier | 05-14-2003 03:56 PM |
Sometimes you can find someone in Canada who is upgrading to roof rails. Rails are an option on the TS in Canada.
I bought mine that way. $70.00 shipped.
I filled the holes in my roof with an industrial silicone sealant. Put some duct tape on the inside of the car and "pressure fill" the hole. Swirl the sealant around the top so it becomes larger than the hole.
Works like charm.
I bought mine that way. $70.00 shipped.
I filled the holes in my roof with an industrial silicone sealant. Put some duct tape on the inside of the car and "pressure fill" the hole. Swirl the sealant around the top so it becomes larger than the hole.
Works like charm.
| pittkid333 | 05-14-2003 07:39 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by sonicblue [/i]
[B]
I hear SubieGal has a great price on them - IIRC, her price is lower than a dealer and shipping is low, low, low. My dealer gets stuff in quick (3 days, I think), so my impatience led me to order from them, but I think Jamie would have saved me about $25.
No, they definitely can't be rolled up - they're barely flexible. [/B][/QUOTE]
Just picked them up today from my dealer...list is $68, "invoice" is 54. Got mine for 117:D
[B]
I hear SubieGal has a great price on them - IIRC, her price is lower than a dealer and shipping is low, low, low. My dealer gets stuff in quick (3 days, I think), so my impatience led me to order from them, but I think Jamie would have saved me about $25.
No, they definitely can't be rolled up - they're barely flexible. [/B][/QUOTE]
Just picked them up today from my dealer...list is $68, "invoice" is 54. Got mine for 117:D
| NeoteriX | 05-14-2003 08:46 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by sonicblue [/i]
[B]
[IMG]http://tishandtighe.20m.com/wrx/norails1.jpg[/IMG] [/B][/QUOTE]
Did you get the stock rims powdercoated gunmetal and then the lips polished?
[B]
[IMG]http://tishandtighe.20m.com/wrx/norails1.jpg[/IMG] [/B][/QUOTE]
Did you get the stock rims powdercoated gunmetal and then the lips polished?
| sonicblue | 05-15-2003 09:17 AM |
It's Duplicolor's Wheel paint in "graphite" - I just masked off the lip before painting. However, I made the mistake of not scoring the tape off and a few areas of the edge didn't look great. Also, weird thing happened and a couple of my valve caps fused to the stem and I had to replace the stems. The wheels took a beating during that process and the paint shows it. I'm going to give them a couple fresh coats soon (since I'll be cleaning my rotors and calipers) but painting is worthwhile for daily drivers I think, especially considering the, oh, $15 of total outlay.
| AllSubaru.com | 05-15-2003 11:15 AM |
$54 each side....
shipping of $10-15 depending on where you live...
i have 2 sets in stock. let me know if i can help guys...
these are not on line, email or pm me for more info.
cheers Jamie - [url]www.allsubaru.com[/url] || [email][email protected][/email]
shipping of $10-15 depending on where you live...
i have 2 sets in stock. let me know if i can help guys...
these are not on line, email or pm me for more info.
cheers Jamie - [url]www.allsubaru.com[/url] || [email][email protected][/email]
| Wolfen42 | 05-15-2003 11:23 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by AllSubaru.com [/i]
[B]$54 each side....
shipping of $10-15 depending on where you live...
i have 2 sets in stock. let me know if i can help guys...
these are not on line, email or pm me for more info.
cheers Jamie - [url]www.allsubaru.com[/url] || [email][email protected][/email] [/B][/QUOTE]
Woohoo! just PMed you :)
[B]$54 each side....
shipping of $10-15 depending on where you live...
i have 2 sets in stock. let me know if i can help guys...
these are not on line, email or pm me for more info.
cheers Jamie - [url]www.allsubaru.com[/url] || [email][email protected][/email] [/B][/QUOTE]
Woohoo! just PMed you :)
| Bolster | 05-19-2003 03:51 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by AllSubaru.com [/i]
[B]$54 each side....
shipping of $10-15 depending on where you live...
i have 2 sets in stock. let me know if i can help guys...
these are not on line, email or pm me for more info.
cheers Jamie - [url]www.allsubaru.com[/url] || [email][email protected][/email] [/B][/QUOTE]
That's a great price- I just ordered them from my local dealer- wish I had checked with you. My rails are officially off now! Sealing the holes right now.....
[B]$54 each side....
shipping of $10-15 depending on where you live...
i have 2 sets in stock. let me know if i can help guys...
these are not on line, email or pm me for more info.
cheers Jamie - [url]www.allsubaru.com[/url] || [email][email protected][/email] [/B][/QUOTE]
That's a great price- I just ordered them from my local dealer- wish I had checked with you. My rails are officially off now! Sealing the holes right now.....
| Subie Gal | 05-19-2003 03:56 PM |
Check w/me next time ya need something...
[i]i took this job to help you guys!!! [/i]
;)
have fun... wagon powaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!
Jamie
[img]http://www.subiegal.com/SGRacing/Team%20Schedule/subiegalwave.gif[/img]
[i]i took this job to help you guys!!! [/i]
;)
have fun... wagon powaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!
Jamie
[img]http://www.subiegal.com/SGRacing/Team%20Schedule/subiegalwave.gif[/img]
| MK19 | 05-19-2003 07:18 PM |
You go girl...
WTG J!!! Helpin out us wagoneers!!! Hey J, do you know of any cool wagon parts? Mods? Body parts/kits??? Being a wagon owner, you gotta take care of us!!! Thanks as always!!
damon
So, you gonna de-rail the rally beast?
damon
So, you gonna de-rail the rally beast?
| crank0r | 12-03-2004 09:58 PM |
just reviving an old thread, was going to do this mod after xmas and was looking into all my options, thanks for the nice howto :)
| only1agam | 12-03-2004 11:52 PM |
i got 90% of the raills off i just gotta screw em off of my 00 OBS but which moldings will fit my car?? and plus i'm gonna have six holes on my roof too so should i just try the plugs? and wat size
| chewbakarox | 12-04-2004 04:55 PM |
[QUOTE=WagonRX]Laylow,
The wheels are made by Enkei (I assume because of the stickers on the side of the car) and are 18 x 7.5 48et. I don't think these are available here in the US.[/QUOTE]
The wheels are Enkei RPO2-J's. They are available in the US (or at least the Enkei USA website shows them) with 48 ET in 17 and 18 inch. Sweet rims IMHO.
[url]http://www.enkei.com/HPSpecPAGES/rpo2-jSpecs.html[/url]
The wheels are made by Enkei (I assume because of the stickers on the side of the car) and are 18 x 7.5 48et. I don't think these are available here in the US.[/QUOTE]
The wheels are Enkei RPO2-J's. They are available in the US (or at least the Enkei USA website shows them) with 48 ET in 17 and 18 inch. Sweet rims IMHO.
[url]http://www.enkei.com/HPSpecPAGES/rpo2-jSpecs.html[/url]
| R_W | 12-06-2004 09:51 PM |
Need some roof rails...
If anyone has done the roof rail pull and wants to get rid of some rails, I need a set. I bought a WRX wagon this weekend that had the mod, but unfortunately I race bicycles so need some back...
Feel free to e-mail me.
Robert
Feel free to e-mail me.
Robert
| crank0r | 12-07-2004 02:47 AM |
where you located R_W ? if your in cali we can just swap rails...
| dbrier | 12-07-2004 03:06 PM |
That is your best bet, find someone who wants to remove their rails and trade your roof trim for thier roof trim and rails. You shouldn't have too much trouble finding someone.
| only1agam | 12-07-2004 05:31 PM |
i just derailed my 99 OBS does anyone know whether or not the 02-04 moldings will fit my car??
| only1agam | 12-07-2004 11:02 PM |
anyone??
| R_W | 12-08-2004 12:11 AM |
[QUOTE=crank0r]where you located R_W ? if your in cali we can just swap rails...[/QUOTE]
I'm in Tennessee......
I'm in Tennessee......
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