| CaptainMorgan | 10-18-2002 11:42 AM |
Swap stereo bulbs with LED
Does anyone know the voltage on the stock stereo ilumination bulbs? I want to swap in some blue LED's there but I need to know the voltage before I solder them in. Also, how do you get access to the gauges to remove the green on the back? I'd like to remove that and change the odo color too. I did a search but couldnt find any instructions on how to. Thanks!
| Kartoffel | 10-18-2002 05:39 PM |
Re: Swap stereo bulbs with LED
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by CaptainMorgan [/i]
[B]Does anyone know the voltage on the stock stereo ilumination bulbs? I want to swap in some blue LED's there but I need to know the voltage before I solder them in. [/B][/QUOTE]
If you're soldering you probably have a multimeter, right?
[B]Does anyone know the voltage on the stock stereo ilumination bulbs? I want to swap in some blue LED's there but I need to know the voltage before I solder them in. [/B][/QUOTE]
If you're soldering you probably have a multimeter, right?
| Mulder | 10-18-2002 06:51 PM |
You'll have to remove the HU completely and open it up to see if there are replaceable bulbs that can be changed for different bulbs or LEDs. If it is possible you will need to know not only the voltage to the bulbs but the polarity as well since LEDs are diodes and thus polarity-sensitive. Once you know the voltage for the existing bulbs, you will need to calculate the appropriate series resistor to use with each LED.
| khail19 | 10-19-2002 02:07 AM |
What mulder said. If you want some LED bulbs that plug right in to the instrument cluster (no soldering) then look for a thread called Dash Lighting in this forum. I'll go find it right now and bump it to the top for you. Not sure what the stereo uses for bulbs, though, so I don't know if thes will work on that as well.
Khail
Khail
| Malico | 10-23-2002 12:39 PM |
I am going to see what I can do about finding out the voltage on the stock bulbs in the radio... I will post it here when I find out, but if anyone else knows, would be appreciated.
| CaptainMorgan | 10-23-2002 03:27 PM |
Thanks for your help, but I figured it out. The voltage on each of the lights is about 9.5v. Ireplaced all the incandescent lamps in the stereo with 3.7v 2600mcd blue LED's from radio shack and a 330ohm resistor. The HArdest were the ones lighting up the LCD. I ended up cutting the trace on the back and running the resistor over the gap. and since I dont have any SMT resistors, its a mess. But it works. Really well!
| wrxlvr | 10-23-2002 03:58 PM |
Let's see pics!
| CaptainMorgan | 10-23-2002 11:16 PM |
Here's the stereo. Sorry its blurry. It's hard to hold the camera still while I have the apature open for 1 second.
[IMG]http://morganp22.home.mchsi.com/images/photo3/blue_stereo.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://morganp22.home.mchsi.com/images/photo3/blue_buttons.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://morganp22.home.mchsi.com/images/photo3/blue_stereo.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://morganp22.home.mchsi.com/images/photo3/blue_buttons.jpg[/IMG]
| superhawk44 | 10-24-2002 12:12 AM |
awsome
OMG that is so awsome you have to do that for me I have no electronics knowledge at all but NEED to have that done!!!!!
SWWEEEEEETTTT!!!!!!!!! CHRIS.......:eek: :eek: :eek:
SWWEEEEEETTTT!!!!!!!!! CHRIS.......:eek: :eek: :eek:
| Malico | 10-24-2002 07:41 AM |
Where did you get the LEDS you used?
I got my Gauges looking like that, next step is the stereo!
I got my Gauges looking like that, next step is the stereo!
| CaptainMorgan | 10-24-2002 09:15 AM |
Go down to Radio Shack. By yourself like 11 Blue LED's 276-316. Also get 2 packs of 330 ohm resistors 271-1315. Get a soldering pencil and file it to a sharp point. Get some fine gauge solder 64-013 and some solder braid 64-2090. It took me maybe an hour and a half to do the whole stereo with the new bulbs. It's real easy. The board is laid out nice to work on. The only problem is finding the polarity on the board for the LED's. Maybe I might post some instructions to do it, though I dont have any "before pics" I think you could figure it out. Its really bright. It's brighter than stock I think. In case you're wondering the blue is not as deep a color as it is on VW's, this is more of an "electric" blue. If you've ever seen a telsa coil discharge, its that color of blue. If anyone in Iowa wants me to do there's for them like this, PM me.
| Malico | 10-24-2002 11:52 AM |
That is just standard blue LEDS? wow...
| il96 | 10-24-2002 09:54 PM |
I di that to my nokia cell phone :) except i used surface mount led's. The blue leds ARE bright, so you'll probably have to wear sunglasses....
Btw they make the LED's in Purple, White, Orange, Ulra Green, Ultra Red, Yellow, etc.
Blue, White, and Green will probably look the best because the transparrent layer on the buttons is green-ish.
Btw they make the LED's in Purple, White, Orange, Ulra Green, Ultra Red, Yellow, etc.
Blue, White, and Green will probably look the best because the transparrent layer on the buttons is green-ish.
| Javabean2 | 10-25-2002 02:32 AM |
That looks incredible! Now you just have to change all the other interior lights to match :)
Can you take some pics with the camera braced or resting on the front seats? It should make it easy to get a fairly sharp reduced picture even at low shutter speeds.
Can you take some pics with the camera braced or resting on the front seats? It should make it easy to get a fairly sharp reduced picture even at low shutter speeds.
| CaptainMorgan | 10-25-2002 10:12 AM |
I'm gonna try and get some better pics as soon as I get the new LED's for the cluster. I'll have to set the camera on something and set the delay. The only problem is that the blue light bleeds in the pictures, so its gonna be a bit fuzzy no matter what.
| Malico | 10-28-2002 08:01 AM |
I did the Radio yesterday and it came out AWESOME!!!
Captain I plan to send you an email on this but I found a easy way to figure out the polarity and I plan to work on a writeup on this as well.
You can find the polarity with the board out of the headunit.
Get a Multimeter, stick it into the Ohm Meter Selection and probe across the current bulb leads on the board. Technically if you probe ground to ground there should be little to no resistance since ground is a straight shot, I was getting .6 ohms.
Example:
There were 7 bulbs on the board, find two of them...
Stick your probes one lead one on bulb one and on lead one of bulb two. You should have four combinations max for two bulbs but go through each combo until you get a resistance reading of 1 ohm or less. These are your Negitive leads.
This is how I did mine and I got the polarity correct on every bulb without having to probe it under power.
Thanks again Captain, I will be on contact with you via email
Captain I plan to send you an email on this but I found a easy way to figure out the polarity and I plan to work on a writeup on this as well.
You can find the polarity with the board out of the headunit.
Get a Multimeter, stick it into the Ohm Meter Selection and probe across the current bulb leads on the board. Technically if you probe ground to ground there should be little to no resistance since ground is a straight shot, I was getting .6 ohms.
Example:
There were 7 bulbs on the board, find two of them...
Stick your probes one lead one on bulb one and on lead one of bulb two. You should have four combinations max for two bulbs but go through each combo until you get a resistance reading of 1 ohm or less. These are your Negitive leads.
This is how I did mine and I got the polarity correct on every bulb without having to probe it under power.
Thanks again Captain, I will be on contact with you via email
| IggDawg | 10-28-2002 10:56 AM |
Did you use the same LEDs to do the environmental controls? Those are just white incandescent bulbs with green condoms. I worry about vewing angle.
-IggDawg
-IggDawg
| WRXerist | 10-28-2002 01:57 PM |
This is cool. I would like to do this mod someday.:)
| CaptainMorgan | 10-28-2002 02:12 PM |
Yes, I replaced the bulbs in the HVAC unit with LED's. There it is a bit dimmer because there is nothing to redirect the light like in the stereo, but it is still very visible.
We're working on getting some instructions togeterh on how to do this yourself. Hopefully that will be up on ScoobyMods soon.
We're working on getting some instructions togeterh on how to do this yourself. Hopefully that will be up on ScoobyMods soon.
| wrxlvr | 10-28-2002 04:26 PM |
Thats awesome! First time I've seen it look that good. Now, can you do the clock, dash lights, and odometer? This is definately on the future mods list.
| Malico | 10-29-2002 07:24 AM |
I have totaly completed all my interior lights with this...
I have been working with Captain Morgan on it and I plan to make a write up in the next couple of weeks. Waiting to get my hands on a digital camera and also waiting on another interior mod. Going to rip my dash apart and take detailed pics all at the same time.
This is what I coverted below :
Fog & Cruise Light - Done with LEDs - Very easy and came out nice and clean.
HVAC Controls - Done with LEDs, pain in the ass. I am waiting on some bulbs to see if they can be done eaiser. Will put both ways in write up.
Stock Radio - Done with LEDs - Not too hard to do as long as you have decent electronics and soildering knowledge. I found a easy way to figure polarity on the board with it out of the HU. THis part does require some cutting of circut traces on the faceplate board. May want a friend to do it for you if you feel uncomfortable doing so.
Gauges & Odo - LED Bulb sockets - Was able to convert the stock Gauges to the same blue color. The Odometer matches the color of the LCD you see on the radio in the pic above.
The whole setup looks sweet, takes some work and expect to spend about $100-120 for all the bulbs are misc parts needed.
Captain - For the HVAC I completed last night, I put some foil strips inside the HVAC and it helped to brighten it up.
Expect to have the write-up by the end of November, sorry for the delay but I will be leaving town next week for 10 days and unable to do anything but when I return I will make a very detailed and full write up with pics.
If you want me to email you when the writeup is complete drop me an email at [email][email protected][/email] and I will email it to you when it is complete. Put in the subject line "LED Mod" that way I know what it is about and can separate it from the porn spam ;)
I have been working with Captain Morgan on it and I plan to make a write up in the next couple of weeks. Waiting to get my hands on a digital camera and also waiting on another interior mod. Going to rip my dash apart and take detailed pics all at the same time.
This is what I coverted below :
Fog & Cruise Light - Done with LEDs - Very easy and came out nice and clean.
HVAC Controls - Done with LEDs, pain in the ass. I am waiting on some bulbs to see if they can be done eaiser. Will put both ways in write up.
Stock Radio - Done with LEDs - Not too hard to do as long as you have decent electronics and soildering knowledge. I found a easy way to figure polarity on the board with it out of the HU. THis part does require some cutting of circut traces on the faceplate board. May want a friend to do it for you if you feel uncomfortable doing so.
Gauges & Odo - LED Bulb sockets - Was able to convert the stock Gauges to the same blue color. The Odometer matches the color of the LCD you see on the radio in the pic above.
The whole setup looks sweet, takes some work and expect to spend about $100-120 for all the bulbs are misc parts needed.
Captain - For the HVAC I completed last night, I put some foil strips inside the HVAC and it helped to brighten it up.
Expect to have the write-up by the end of November, sorry for the delay but I will be leaving town next week for 10 days and unable to do anything but when I return I will make a very detailed and full write up with pics.
If you want me to email you when the writeup is complete drop me an email at [email][email protected][/email] and I will email it to you when it is complete. Put in the subject line "LED Mod" that way I know what it is about and can separate it from the porn spam ;)
| TheShadowWRX | 10-29-2002 09:44 AM |
Do the lights dim with the dimmer switch thing on the headlight stalk?
Mike
Mike
| ScreaminFast | 10-29-2002 10:28 AM |
if I just want to go with white to match the Defi BF gauges is it easier to just go in there and replace the icandesants with white ones? or will they match better with white leds?
| Malico | 10-29-2002 10:38 AM |
Yes all the lights dim with the dimmer control
As for white, all of the bulbs are color by bulb condoms. So removing the bulb condoms would give you a whiteish light except for on the LCD's where you would still get a hint of green.
As for white, all of the bulbs are color by bulb condoms. So removing the bulb condoms would give you a whiteish light except for on the LCD's where you would still get a hint of green.
| CaptainMorgan | 10-29-2002 11:27 AM |
malico: I just got my LED's for the dash in last night. They are a bit dimmer than I had hoped and dont diffuse well enough. I got them from Autodynamic.com [url]http://209.87.151.155/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=194-LED-Blue-4.[/url] What kind did you get? I'm kind of upset about the hot spots in certain areas.
Yeah the HVAC controls were a bitch. I had to file my solder iron down to a sharp point to get into those little caps to attach the LED's.
ScreaminFast: Actually if you remove the bulb condoms in the stereo it come out a pinkish yellow. The incandescents glow like a normal house light on a dimmer turned all the way down. You can do the mod with white LED's and it will probably give you the pure white you're looking for.
Yeah the HVAC controls were a bitch. I had to file my solder iron down to a sharp point to get into those little caps to attach the LED's.
ScreaminFast: Actually if you remove the bulb condoms in the stereo it come out a pinkish yellow. The incandescents glow like a normal house light on a dimmer turned all the way down. You can do the mod with white LED's and it will probably give you the pure white you're looking for.
| Malico | 10-29-2002 11:40 AM |
Those are the ones I am using now Morgan and I have already had 2 of them burn out... I do not think they were built well at all. I also have those hot spots.
When I do the writeup I plan to put NOT to use those bulbs
These are the ones I ordered, should give better spread of light, be direct replacements to the current incan's so you can use the stock sockets and they should not burnout since they are made to replace incans. The one downfall is a 4-6 week deliverly time.
[url]http://www.netdisty.net/ds/WF150/[/url]
This is what I am waiting on to see how they work out... Then from there build the writeup.
Also after thinking about it I may use the Rack Shack LED's we used for the radio on the odo LCD. So that way they match
When I do the writeup I plan to put NOT to use those bulbs
These are the ones I ordered, should give better spread of light, be direct replacements to the current incan's so you can use the stock sockets and they should not burnout since they are made to replace incans. The one downfall is a 4-6 week deliverly time.
[url]http://www.netdisty.net/ds/WF150/[/url]
This is what I am waiting on to see how they work out... Then from there build the writeup.
Also after thinking about it I may use the Rack Shack LED's we used for the radio on the odo LCD. So that way they match
| CaptainMorgan | 10-29-2002 01:20 PM |
I was going to order those but they cost a bit more. They are the same ones thatthey sell at Autodynamic.com but they were out of stock there. I think that the LED behind the LCD will cause a hot spot, but if you angle it right you should get that to clear up. I actually like the way the green odo looks with the blue gauges, because the needles actually turn green too.
The other thing I noticed is that the green backing on the gauge faces is not over the entire surface. It only covers say half of the speedo gauge, all of the tach, and none of the fuel and temp gauges. So I think what I'll do is put a Radio Shack LED behind the fuel and temp gauges and the rest with the high intensities.
I'll get some pics tonight or tomorrow of the gauge cluster, and some ofthe pictures of the rest of the controls.
Keep in touch man.
The other thing I noticed is that the green backing on the gauge faces is not over the entire surface. It only covers say half of the speedo gauge, all of the tach, and none of the fuel and temp gauges. So I think what I'll do is put a Radio Shack LED behind the fuel and temp gauges and the rest with the high intensities.
I'll get some pics tonight or tomorrow of the gauge cluster, and some ofthe pictures of the rest of the controls.
Keep in touch man.
| Malico | 10-29-2002 01:45 PM |
The ones from that LEDtronics supposedly fit right it from what someone else told me. As for the aiming the LED I have mine on an angle so the LCD is nice and smooth.
Let me know how the Rack Scrap LED's work... I won't have my WRX tonight, leaving it at the dealer for them to remove some dents that were in it on deliverly.
If the radio shack ones work good I may cancel my order with LEDTronics and just use those.
How many LED's for the Gauges again, if my memory serves me right it is 7.
Let me know how the Rack Scrap LED's work... I won't have my WRX tonight, leaving it at the dealer for them to remove some dents that were in it on deliverly.
If the radio shack ones work good I may cancel my order with LEDTronics and just use those.
How many LED's for the Gauges again, if my memory serves me right it is 7.
| CaptainMorgan | 10-29-2002 02:14 PM |
I think there are 6. One for the fuel, one for the temp, one for the odo and then the speedo and tach share three.
Did you get your LED's to fit directly into the holes, or are they kinda just sitting on the outside a bit? The ones I have are a bit too wide, and I dont feel like shaving the holes or the LEDs down to make them fit at this point.
Did you get your LED's to fit directly into the holes, or are they kinda just sitting on the outside a bit? The ones I have are a bit too wide, and I dont feel like shaving the holes or the LEDs down to make them fit at this point.
| Malico | 10-29-2002 08:45 PM |
Yea they are sitting on the edge...
I think I may go hit rack shack again this weekend and pick up a couple of those LED's we used in the radio and see how they work out in the Gauge Cluster...
I am working on something that may help to spread the light some too.
I think I may go hit rack shack again this weekend and pick up a couple of those LED's we used in the radio and see how they work out in the Gauge Cluster...
I am working on something that may help to spread the light some too.
| IggDawg | 10-30-2002 07:31 AM |
Just for those less electrically inclined... The light bulbs in the fog and cruise switches are set up on 5 volts. You'll need a 150 Ohm resistor if you want to set up the LEDs on the same power supply as the little bulbs in there. the blue LEDs everyone is using will fit into the socket the bulb comes out of on the switches. However, you'll get a much nicer light if you take the switch apart and set it on a 90* angle so the lens is facing outward. Feed the leads through the hole and use a generous amount of solder to attache them to the resistor and the power contacts. That will hold the LED in place nicely.
-IggDawg
-IggDawg
| Malico | 10-30-2002 07:45 AM |
Incorrect, the lights in the buttons are approx 9.5 volts, same as the radio and HVAC.
The way I have the light setup inside there it comes out nice and even, which I will show in the write-up.
The way I have the light setup inside there it comes out nice and even, which I will show in the write-up.
| IggDawg | 10-30-2002 08:10 AM |
You sure about that? my multitester said 5 volts, and I used a 150 Ohm resistor. The LED lights bright and doesn't blow. I used the multitester across the 2 metal rails the light sits on. the light that illuminates the symbol (not the on-light). Where did you test from?
-IggDawg
-IggDawg
| Malico | 10-30-2002 09:10 AM |
The same points...
I am using a 330 ohm resistor on it now, same setup as I did in radio and HVAC. If I had a 330 ohm with a 5 volt power source it would be very dim.
I may be doing some work on it this weekend, so maybe I will pull it and doubel check but I beleive it is 9-9.5
I am using a 330 ohm resistor on it now, same setup as I did in radio and HVAC. If I had a 330 ohm with a 5 volt power source it would be very dim.
I may be doing some work on it this weekend, so maybe I will pull it and doubel check but I beleive it is 9-9.5
| CaptainMorgan | 10-30-2002 10:13 AM |
Actually, I think that the fog buttons are at 12v, just like the gauge cluster, and the HVAC controls. Make sure that you have the dimmer turned all the way on when you check. Also, we are using 5mm LED's from Radio Shack. These will not fit in the opening for the fog light. Maybe if you use a 3mm is will, but the 5 is too big so you need to take the unit apart.
| MightyWRX02 | 10-30-2002 10:36 AM |
That's a beautifull CEL that compliments the stereo!:p
~~MikE--
~~MikE--
| IggDawg | 10-30-2002 10:37 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by CaptainMorgan [/i]
[B]Actually, I think that the fog buttons are at 12v, just like the gauge cluster, and the HVAC controls. Make sure that you have the dimmer turned all the way on when you check. Also, we are using 5mm LED's from Radio Shack. These will not fit in the opening for the fog light. Maybe if you use a 3mm is will, but the 5 is too big so you need to take the unit apart. [/B][/QUOTE]
Huh.. well I tested 5 volts with dimmer on full, and I'm using the proper resistor for 5 volts and everything seems to be working fine :confused:
Also, the 5mm will fit if you force it a little. the opening is like 4.5 mm or something, and its all soft-ish plastic. it won't fit *through*, but it will fit *in* the opening. the lip will not pass through.
-IggDawg
[B]Actually, I think that the fog buttons are at 12v, just like the gauge cluster, and the HVAC controls. Make sure that you have the dimmer turned all the way on when you check. Also, we are using 5mm LED's from Radio Shack. These will not fit in the opening for the fog light. Maybe if you use a 3mm is will, but the 5 is too big so you need to take the unit apart. [/B][/QUOTE]
Huh.. well I tested 5 volts with dimmer on full, and I'm using the proper resistor for 5 volts and everything seems to be working fine :confused:
Also, the 5mm will fit if you force it a little. the opening is like 4.5 mm or something, and its all soft-ish plastic. it won't fit *through*, but it will fit *in* the opening. the lip will not pass through.
-IggDawg
| Malico | 10-30-2002 11:00 AM |
The 5mm is actually a perfect fit for it... They push in up to their lower lip, nice tight fit that allows for easy routing of the LED Leads.
I still remember around 9.5 on the multimeter... Will have to double check it.
I still remember around 9.5 on the multimeter... Will have to double check it.
| IggDawg | 10-30-2002 12:18 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Malico [/i]
[B]The 5mm is actually a perfect fit for it... They push in up to their lower lip, nice tight fit that allows for easy routing of the LED Leads.
I still remember around 9.5 on the multimeter... Will have to double check it. [/B][/QUOTE]
I was wrong once back in '82, so it could happen again.
-IggDawg
[B]The 5mm is actually a perfect fit for it... They push in up to their lower lip, nice tight fit that allows for easy routing of the LED Leads.
I still remember around 9.5 on the multimeter... Will have to double check it. [/B][/QUOTE]
I was wrong once back in '82, so it could happen again.
-IggDawg
| avk | 10-30-2002 02:39 PM |
Might it be possible to simplify the conversion by using a proper single resistor in the illumination circuit,
or maybe one for the radio and one for the instrument cluster?
or maybe one for the radio and one for the instrument cluster?
| Malico | 10-30-2002 10:37 PM |
The radio's circut board would not allow for that nor would I feel comfortable doing it without a schematic...
The buttons get power from two different leads
The HVAC wiring is inaccessible
and the Gauges in my experience have more than one power source coming in, once again the need for a schematic would be needed here.
Any luck with yours captian? I am hitting Rack Scrap tomorrow for more LEDS to see how they fit in the cluster.
The buttons get power from two different leads
The HVAC wiring is inaccessible
and the Gauges in my experience have more than one power source coming in, once again the need for a schematic would be needed here.
Any luck with yours captian? I am hitting Rack Scrap tomorrow for more LEDS to see how they fit in the cluster.
| avk | 10-30-2002 11:16 PM |
Getting the schematics isn't an obstacle. The idea was to identify the illumination leads in the harnesses, then mount the resistor[s] externally.
| IggDawg | 10-31-2002 07:37 AM |
The only potential problem I would see is if the dummy lights are wired to the same power source as the gauge lights. they don't dim, but perhaps the dimmer pot comes after the power source splits :confused:
-IggDawg
-IggDawg
| Malico | 10-31-2002 08:15 AM |
MUCH easier to just put a resistor on each LED... I see a lot of potential problems with doing it any other way.
| avk | 10-31-2002 08:33 AM |
I'd call it a matter of preference. After all, all backlight bulbs are fed from one illum. control module.
| CaptainMorgan | 10-31-2002 10:25 AM |
If you put a single resistor for the whole circuit, it'd have to be able to handle quite a bit of power, a lot more than the ¼ watt resistors we're using on LED's now. Plus it'd have to be like a 20 or 33 ohm resistor to get it all balanced out. And this is assuming that nothing else draws power from this circuit and that its the only one for the lights. All in all, it aint worth the hassel or the possible damage it'll do to the equipment.
| avk | 10-31-2002 01:11 PM |
If you are dropping 9.5-3.7=5.8 Volts on a 330 Ohm resistor, there is about 0.1W of heat. If a component has, say, up to 10 bulbs, the total is 1W. This total would be the same with a single res., so a 2W rating would be enough. The bulbs being replaced are about 1W each, so heat damage is unlikely.
| IggDawg | 10-31-2002 01:51 PM |
update: found out my rat-shack multitester is poo. that's why I was getting such low voltage readings. I think you have to actually multiply the voltage reading by 2 on the 20V scale. whatever. ym last multitester was much better. but anyways, this shows the diodes are robust. the resistor is less than half the value it should be, and the diode is not burning out.
-IggDawg
-IggDawg
| verbal | 10-31-2002 11:13 PM |
[url]http://www.netdisty.net/ds/WF150/[/url]
Has anybody ordered and installed those lights? How did they turn out? I'm very close to ordering them, but want to make sure somebody has used them. Is delivery time still 4-6 weeks?
Has anybody ordered and installed those lights? How did they turn out? I'm very close to ordering them, but want to make sure somebody has used them. Is delivery time still 4-6 weeks?
| austenf740 | 11-01-2002 02:05 AM |
there was a thread a little while back where people used those to replace the HVAC and gauge lights.
| Malico | 11-01-2002 07:07 AM |
I am still waiting for mine to come, been about 2 weeks into the 4-6 week delivery.
NOTE : DO NOT ORDER THE LED BULBS FROM AUTODYNAMIC!!! They are burning out on my constantly being in the Gauge cluster and they resistors on them should more than handle the power.
This weekend I am going to try a little something, going to email Morgan on it and get his thoughts. I do not feel like waiting for the ones from LEDTronics to come in. Will let you all know if it actually works out.
NOTE : DO NOT ORDER THE LED BULBS FROM AUTODYNAMIC!!! They are burning out on my constantly being in the Gauge cluster and they resistors on them should more than handle the power.
This weekend I am going to try a little something, going to email Morgan on it and get his thoughts. I do not feel like waiting for the ones from LEDTronics to come in. Will let you all know if it actually works out.
| IggDawg | 11-01-2002 07:36 AM |
I did my HVAC cluster yesterday. and yeah. it was a beotch to get the diodes into those bulb holders right. I clipped one lead on the diode as close to the plastic as possible, leaving a few millimeters to solder to. I soldered in a resistor (with a few mm left on one end) right up to the plastic and left about 6 or so mm on the trailing end so it was as long as the other lead. I was killing myself trying to get the two leads into those 2 little holes in the bottom of the holder. what eventually worked was rolling up a little electrical tape to act as a pressure source. put the roll of tape between the 2 leads and force the diode down. leave the trailing lead of the resistor curled up along the outside of the resistor such that it can contact the metal in the bulb holder. The tape will push the 2 leads against their respective contacts in the bulb holder and also provide spring force to keep the whole assembly together.
Someone mentioned putting foil in the HVAC controls somehow to make it a little brighter. what exactly did you do? Its bright, but not as bright as stock. also, the periphery is a little dim. not too bad, but a little dim. I'd like to make it a little brighter all around.
-IggDawg
Someone mentioned putting foil in the HVAC controls somehow to make it a little brighter. what exactly did you do? Its bright, but not as bright as stock. also, the periphery is a little dim. not too bad, but a little dim. I'd like to make it a little brighter all around.
-IggDawg
| Malico | 11-01-2002 07:52 AM |
I took strips of foil and placed it on the back inside of the front HVAC control face and along the inside of the white control housing where the LED's are. Tacked it in with hotglue
| IggDawg | 11-01-2002 07:57 AM |
Sorry for the stupid questions, but... I thought the whole HVAC console was immobile. I've tried removing it a couple times but failed like the bitch I am. How do you remove and disassemble it? or at least remove it. I an take it from there.
-IggDawg
-IggDawg
| Malico | 11-01-2002 08:05 AM |
Ok, you know the black face that has the overlays on it? Remove that then the HVAC housing is exposed ( Where the bulbs/led's are ). This is white...
I placed the foil on the inside of the black face being careful not to cover light from any of the overlays then I placed some inside that white housing.
I placed the foil on the inside of the black face being careful not to cover light from any of the overlays then I placed some inside that white housing.
| sonicblue | 11-01-2002 08:24 AM |
MAN, I want do this!!!! No real experience with soldering, but am very mechanically inclined and a quick learner.....
BUT MUST SEE SOME PICS! Someone post, please!
BUT MUST SEE SOME PICS! Someone post, please!
| Malico | 11-01-2002 08:27 AM |
Waiting to get my hands on a digital cam... I may be able to get the writeup done sooner, but as soon as I get the time I will post it.
| ScreaminFast | 11-01-2002 08:49 AM |
Hey Captain...
What about those LED socket things....you think those'd glow pure white?
What about those LED socket things....you think those'd glow pure white?
| verbal | 11-01-2002 09:33 AM |
But has anybody actually used those bulbs? I want to avoid soldering unless I have to. I know soldering needs to be done for the radio and maybe the cruise/fog controls. So, anybody use those bulbs yet?
| Malico | 11-01-2002 09:53 AM |
I know people have used the LEDTronics bulbs and they DO work...
As for the Fog/Cruise you HAVE to use LED's
As for the Fog/Cruise you HAVE to use LED's
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