| TurmultTee | 08-13-2006 05:11 PM |
MAking carbon fiber pieces
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Well this is something that I am wanting to do, but it is hard to find people/places that can help online much less locally. I found 2 tutorials online that seem ok one better than the other. The question is has anyone done it that can help or provide some insight. I want to make some interior pieces for the car.
The two tutorials that I found were these
[URL=http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/carbon-fiber-motorcycle-parts/]http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/carbon-fiber-motorcycle-parts/[/URL]
[URL=http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutorial:Carbon_Fiber_Layup]http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutorial:Carbon_Fiber_Layup[/URL]
The two tutorials that I found were these
[URL=http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/carbon-fiber-motorcycle-parts/]http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/carbon-fiber-motorcycle-parts/[/URL]
[URL=http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutorial:Carbon_Fiber_Layup]http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutorial:Carbon_Fiber_Layup[/URL]
| BlackEyeII | 08-13-2006 05:21 PM |
Not Yet
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I have not tried it yet but I am very interested.
I especially like the vac bag trick.
Keep us posted...
I especially like the vac bag trick.
Keep us posted...
| 03twrx | 08-13-2006 05:22 PM |
Dosent reall look that hard. Prep the piece, lay the fibre, coat. I'd clear the pieces. this is kinda cool. I've been thinking about laying fibre on the roof of my STi.
| stentorian | 08-13-2006 05:29 PM |
Haven't tried it yet, but I am about to test some things out ;) I will post it up if all goes well, kinda a secret project :D
-Joe
-Joe
| TurmultTee | 08-14-2006 03:43 AM |
I want to try the center counsel, but what I really want is the dash.
| STiShawn | 08-14-2006 09:40 AM |
as long as you're using the correct epoxy resin's and use quality materials it is pretty easy to use. Try your parts in fiberglass first as its cheaper if you screw up and you can get some working experience (fiberglass and CF work about the same.) Depending on the part and the required strength you may have to vary your weave directions or use bi-directional cloth. Spend the most time on your molds you choose to use, if you skimp or cut a corner here your part will reflect it.
| eric rxb | 08-14-2006 09:59 AM |
I've made parts out of carbon fiber (a seat and shell for a formula SAE car) and there are A few things that make a huge difference when starting out:
I've found that the cheaper resins were harder to use, and had a tendency to eat through some of my molds. I liked the fiberglass resins from West Marine, they weren't too expensive, and they had nice pumps on the containers so it was easier to measure the correct amounts of each component of the resin. Plus West Marines are pretty common so you don't have to wait for mail order stuff.
If you're making more complex parts make sure you have a variety of different size brushes, and rollers. The rollers have more of an effect if you're not vaccum bagging the parts because it allows you to spread the resin evenly, without distorting the cf weave like the paint brushes do.
Having a nice sharp knife / scissors helps when you're cutting the cf. If you don't have a sharp set the cf weave can easily be distorted.
Other than that I'd say just start by making simpler parts and work up to the more complex ones.
I've found that the cheaper resins were harder to use, and had a tendency to eat through some of my molds. I liked the fiberglass resins from West Marine, they weren't too expensive, and they had nice pumps on the containers so it was easier to measure the correct amounts of each component of the resin. Plus West Marines are pretty common so you don't have to wait for mail order stuff.
If you're making more complex parts make sure you have a variety of different size brushes, and rollers. The rollers have more of an effect if you're not vaccum bagging the parts because it allows you to spread the resin evenly, without distorting the cf weave like the paint brushes do.
Having a nice sharp knife / scissors helps when you're cutting the cf. If you don't have a sharp set the cf weave can easily be distorted.
Other than that I'd say just start by making simpler parts and work up to the more complex ones.
| JRL | 08-14-2006 11:07 PM |
I work with fiberglass for a living. I make mostly aerospace parts. A large portion of my work is vacuumed, but, I do have a little bit of experience with hand layups.
Best advice: Practice with fiberglass first. You will waste a LOT of material learning how to use this stuff.
And if all your doing is cosmetic CF layups where part strength isnt an issue then your better off using "black fiberglass". [url]www.fiberglast.com[/url] sells it. Its cheaper, looks identical, and no one will ever know.
For cutting CF. Mask off the areas to be cut with painters tape (the blue low tach stuff). Cut through the tape and then remove it when your finished. Your edges will come out much cleaner. $60 scissors are always another option.
By the way I recomend buying nothing else from fiberglast.com its prices suck but they seem to be the only one who carrys black fiberglass.
Best advice: Practice with fiberglass first. You will waste a LOT of material learning how to use this stuff.
And if all your doing is cosmetic CF layups where part strength isnt an issue then your better off using "black fiberglass". [url]www.fiberglast.com[/url] sells it. Its cheaper, looks identical, and no one will ever know.
For cutting CF. Mask off the areas to be cut with painters tape (the blue low tach stuff). Cut through the tape and then remove it when your finished. Your edges will come out much cleaner. $60 scissors are always another option.
By the way I recomend buying nothing else from fiberglast.com its prices suck but they seem to be the only one who carrys black fiberglass.
| b00stedreams | 08-15-2006 04:19 PM |
[QUOTE=JRL]And if all your doing is cosmetic CF layups where part strength isnt an issue then your better off using "black fiberglass". Its cheaper, looks identical, and no one will ever know.
For cutting CF. Mask off the areas to be cut with painters tape (the blue low tach stuff). Cut through the tape and then remove it when your finished. Your edges will come out much cleaner. $60 scissors are always another option.
By the way I recomend buying nothing else...its prices suck but they seem to be the only one who carrys black fiberglass.[/QUOTE]
Would you apply the "black figerglass" the same way described in the 350z article posted above or would you use a different method?
For cutting CF. Mask off the areas to be cut with painters tape (the blue low tach stuff). Cut through the tape and then remove it when your finished. Your edges will come out much cleaner. $60 scissors are always another option.
By the way I recomend buying nothing else...its prices suck but they seem to be the only one who carrys black fiberglass.[/QUOTE]
Would you apply the "black figerglass" the same way described in the 350z article posted above or would you use a different method?
| skate enjoi | 08-15-2006 04:36 PM |
awesome... i cant wait to try this
| JRL | 08-15-2006 08:52 PM |
[QUOTE=b00stedreams]Would you apply the "black figerglass" the same way described in the 350z article posted above or would you use a different method?[/QUOTE]
Exactly the same. What he's doing in that article is called and "over lay". Basically he's permanantly bonding the fiber to the part.
If I were going to attempt what he was doing I would spray a LIGHT coat of interior glue on the part to be copied and then lay the CF on top of it while its tacky. I dont really like his taping things in place method. Glueing the part in place will make sure the fiber is completely flat against it and stays there. If its left unsecured it will keep lifting untill the cloth is fully saturated.
Another thing to keep in mind is when laying glass or cf make sure the weave pattern is diagonal in comparison to the direction your laying it. It will contour corners much better than if the weave pattern and lay direction are parallel.
Exactly the same. What he's doing in that article is called and "over lay". Basically he's permanantly bonding the fiber to the part.
If I were going to attempt what he was doing I would spray a LIGHT coat of interior glue on the part to be copied and then lay the CF on top of it while its tacky. I dont really like his taping things in place method. Glueing the part in place will make sure the fiber is completely flat against it and stays there. If its left unsecured it will keep lifting untill the cloth is fully saturated.
Another thing to keep in mind is when laying glass or cf make sure the weave pattern is diagonal in comparison to the direction your laying it. It will contour corners much better than if the weave pattern and lay direction are parallel.
| skate enjoi | 08-15-2006 11:05 PM |
i think ill go with the fiberglass version... what resin is best to use??? i found a good site to buy the epoxy from [url]http://www.uscomposites.com/products.html[/url] ... just need to know if polyester or epoxy resin is best to use??? i plan on ordering this stuff tomorrow so a quick answer would be great
| f1vlad | 08-15-2006 11:29 PM |
I am going to try this for sure, thanks for those two links.
| JRL | 08-15-2006 11:33 PM |
Use epoxy. It dries clearer. Polyester is a whole nother animal, plus it smells horrible.
Mark at uscomposites is a cool dude. Their like 4 miles from my house. Good to see you'll be buying from him. We use their epoxy at work.
Mark at uscomposites is a cool dude. Their like 4 miles from my house. Good to see you'll be buying from him. We use their epoxy at work.
| crzyjulius | 08-15-2006 11:53 PM |
so on fiberglast a 1-yard roll is 50"x1-yard?? Just making sure :)
| lukeskywrx | 08-16-2006 01:05 AM |
layer of really fine light weave fiberglass (<1.5oz) on top of CF gives you something to polish extra smooth and it reduces pinholes. expensive cutting tools are not necessary just get an old par of scissors and hit em on the bench grinder to give them a fresh edge when they dull.
there is lots of information on vacuum bagging in the model sailplane hobby, all the best sailplanes are composite and created using methods that can be applied to automotive parts. I used west system epoxy for years and it always worked great.
luke
there is lots of information on vacuum bagging in the model sailplane hobby, all the best sailplanes are composite and created using methods that can be applied to automotive parts. I used west system epoxy for years and it always worked great.
luke
| crzyjulius | 08-16-2006 01:53 AM |
for "surfacing wax" what exactly should I get??
| hybrid gti 2 | 08-16-2006 01:58 AM |
I wanted to try the same thing. good info :)
| 03twrx | 08-16-2006 02:23 AM |
I wish you could ge carbon kevlar just like the black CF.
| STiShawn | 08-16-2006 08:56 AM |
you can...aircraft spruce and supply
| skate enjoi | 08-16-2006 09:10 AM |
sweet then i will be ordering this stuff today thanks
| skate enjoi | 08-16-2006 01:57 PM |
i ordered the black fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin and the pumps for the containers, hopefully i will get to mess around with this stuff this weekend....
| TurmultTee | 08-16-2006 02:45 PM |
So is all I need is the material, epoxy, brushes, and safety equiptment.
| skate enjoi | 08-16-2006 06:41 PM |
yeah, make sure you get lots of brushes because you can only use them once.... and the place i bought the resin from had the option of buying pumps. for every one pump of hardener you pump 4 of resin.... sounded a lot easier than trying to measure it out...
EDIT- i bought my resin from [url]http://www.uscomposites.com/products.html[/url]
bought the black fiberglass from [url]www.fiberglast.com[/url]
ended up costing like 90 including shipping and that was for a 1ydx50" on black fiberglass and a gallon of resin and all the hardener needed and the pumps....
EDIT- i bought my resin from [url]http://www.uscomposites.com/products.html[/url]
bought the black fiberglass from [url]www.fiberglast.com[/url]
ended up costing like 90 including shipping and that was for a 1ydx50" on black fiberglass and a gallon of resin and all the hardener needed and the pumps....
| hybrid gti 2 | 08-16-2006 07:43 PM |
^ nice thanx for the info. please post pics durring and after if you don't mind :)
| JRL | 08-16-2006 09:19 PM |
[QUOTE=skate enjoi] for every one pump of hardener you pump 4 of resin.... sounded a lot easier than trying to measure it out....[/QUOTE] If you want a ball park figure on how much resin to use just weight your cloth and mix the exact same amount of resin.
And an fyi, each pump on those pumps equals 1 oz of resin/hardner.
You can buy cheap digital scales at office depot. Mine was $40 and has a maximum capacity of 5 lbs.
And an fyi, each pump on those pumps equals 1 oz of resin/hardner.
You can buy cheap digital scales at office depot. Mine was $40 and has a maximum capacity of 5 lbs.
| robbieshonda | 08-16-2006 09:50 PM |
There are a few really well put together write ups on [URL=http://www.honda-tech.com]http://www.honda-tech.com[/URL]
Either search for it or look under fabrication and there is ussually a post right near the top.
Either search for it or look under fabrication and there is ussually a post right near the top.
| skate enjoi | 08-17-2006 11:08 AM |
ooh i didnt even think of that.... i will have to do that... cool thanks
| TurmultTee | 01-09-2008 10:31 PM |
Bumping my old thread.
Any of you people that actually did this have updates. I still haven't done anything yet.
Any of you people that actually did this have updates. I still haven't done anything yet.
| Blamecanada999 | 01-10-2008 01:27 AM |
Thanks for bumping, a-hole. Had you not done that, I wouldn't now have the wicked urge to replace everything in my car with carbon fiber. :mad::lol:
| pleue | 01-10-2008 01:38 AM |
haha youtube has carbon fiber tutorials as well. search those out.
| jdmimprez | 01-10-2008 11:22 AM |
I've played around w/ a few pieces. I use epoxy resin w/ the "medium" hardener w/ a 2:1 ratio. My pieces usually dry (hard enough to sand & clear coat) in about a day & a half. It's fun, you've just got to have patience. Going to get ballzy this spring & overlay my trunk! :banana:
| TurmultTee | 01-11-2008 06:10 PM |
bump :D:D
| skate enjoi | 01-11-2008 07:23 PM |
I tried this and got mixed results. The first few pieces Ive made came out alright with the exception of little bubbles. Then about a year later I tried making a couple pieces for my bike and the resin never seemed to cure. So I re-ordered some resin and hardener and pumps and I plan on making a couple small bs pieces first so I dont have to mess anything up that Ill have to pay to replace
| Ricer118 | 01-12-2008 03:27 AM |
Just curious if anyone has pictures of some good/bad pieces that they have completed and which pattern of material is everyone in agreement on?
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