Chủ Nhật, 8 tháng 1, 2017

Need some expert rally-x advice! part 1

Opie 03-04-2004 10:36 AM

Need some expert rally-x advice!
Florida is finally realizing that rally is taking the nation by storm and I'm taking my autocrossing experience to the first ever rally-x sanctioned by the SCCA in this are this weekend and need some advice, tips.

I'll be running my Legacy, which tire combo would be a better choice?
- 15"x6.5" Wheels with a set of crappy Yokohama Response GT tires - 195/60R15

- 16"x7" Wheels with a decent set of Bridgestone RE92 tires - 205/55R16

Any tips on tire pressure? The surface should be sandy soil, some grass, some pine needles, no gravel, no rocks.

How should I modify my driving style, seating position, etc from my auto-x?

Any tips or advice is appriciated! :D
10th Warrior 03-04-2004 10:58 AM

not sure what the Yoks are like, but since you describe them as "crappy" that should probably be your first hint to use the others ;) RE92s aren't great (suprise suprise) but they do ok. when i used them, i ran in the neighborhood of 35psi all around. good balence between stiffness and not popping a bead.

as for driving style etc, its pretty similar to auto-x. drive the line. stay inside on corners. maybe chuck it a bit more to get it to turn, but that's it. if you go drifto style, you'll be slow. smooth is fast, as usual.

oh, try to run a later heat (if possible). then, all the grass and pine needles will be long gone. you will have to worry about ruts is its really sandy.

most importantly, have fun!! try different techniques and see what works for you.
kwh29 03-04-2004 12:28 PM

I'd use the RE-92's. Just crank up the tire pressure to keep from losing a bead. Several people at the Tarheel rallyx were running 40 PSI on crappy streety tires and still blew beads.

Fred should kick in here but I was pretty successful at both rallycrosses driving at 90% and trying to find traction, rather than the theoretical best line. The autocross line ended up badly rutted and slick while some funky lines allowed excellent power application.

Don't hit any cones! All the times add together at rallycross, so clean driving is even more important than usual!

--Kevin H.
rob 03-04-2004 01:08 PM

Drop your tire pressure to 25 all around to start with. If you understeer through the corners, drop the fronts a couple of psi to help compensate. Getting the attitude of your car setup for a straight exit is more important than hitting the normal line. You will need to work on rotating the rear of the car to achieve this. Left foot stab the brakes at corner entry (as you start to turn) to get a little more front grip and to start the rear rotation. If you can find a little patch of grass or other higher traction spot right next to the cone on the entry, try to get a front tire on that and hang the rear out in the slop for a little more front traction. This may be a little contrary to your auto-x habbits since it's not the line you will naturally go for.

This is my driving style anyway, and I do pretty well.

The RE92s are barely mediocre, but sounds like the best you got. Time for new tires this week?

-Rob
Subie Gal 03-04-2004 01:11 PM

Rob does very well!!!

and that's decent advice...

i ran 21psi last weekend at our rallyx
but that was on rally tyres...

and i was SLIDEWAYS all over the place... :D fun stuff...
not fast.. but the kids i let ride along loved it :lol:

fastest = smoothest

although the sideways looks good,
it's not effective on a rallyx course

be smooth, drive the line and you'll do great :)

Jamie
[url]www.subiegal.com[/url]
rupertberr 03-04-2004 01:13 PM

I agree with all of the above. Most important is high tire pressures. Popped tires are the most common form of DNF in our region. RallyCross is the one thing RE-92's are good at. Second is be smooth and consistant. You aren't trying to get the fastest single lap but the best time over many laps. Third depending on traction turn in sooner then you would on pavement. Dirt equals serious understeer. Fourth wipe that smile off your face when it is all over.:D
KC 03-04-2004 01:15 PM

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by rupertberr[/i]
[B] Fourth wipe that smile off your face when it is all over.:D [/B][/QUOTE]

That's the really hard one to abide by.
rob 03-04-2004 01:16 PM

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Subie Gal[/i]
[B] Rob does very well!!!
[/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks!
[QUOTE][B]
and that's [U]decent[/U] advice...
[/B][/QUOTE]
I think? :lol:
rob 03-04-2004 01:22 PM

I should make a clarification on the tire pressure. We run on grass/dirt/mud. It's pretty soft stuff, so chances of pulling the tire off is pretty low. The softer it is, the lower your tire pressure should be.
Opie 03-04-2004 01:29 PM

Thanks for the tips from everyone so far! I can't wait to give it a try, and the site is only 40 miles from my house! (Closer than 75% of the auto-x's).

The "crappy" tires are the result of a bad alignment and letting the car sit on the tires while flat for 3 months, all by the previous owner. I had a line on some Kumho R700's :D but didn't have the time to follow up on them. Oh well, I want to learn a little first!

Here's a link to the event website: [url]http://www.planetarydomination.com/rally.htm[/url]

Here's the site description:
[QUOTE]The land is reclaimed phosphate mining area and offers a mixture of hard-pack, soft loam and sandy soils. Rocks are minimal and small.[/QUOTE]
Plus there's a 20% chance of rain on Sat.
KC 03-04-2004 01:42 PM

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by rob[/i]
[B] I should make a clarification on the tire pressure. We run on grass/dirt/mud. It's pretty soft stuff, so chances of pulling the tire off is pretty low. The softer it is, the lower your tire pressure should be. [/B][/QUOTE]

I've known oif many cars with street pressure on stock rims to throw beads. Every event here in the north east when there's ruts involved there's at least 1 or 2 cars.

Higher pressure helps prevent that.

--kC
ITWRX4ME 03-04-2004 02:39 PM

Drop your tire pressures then raise them then drop them again.

it works for me. :D

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

In that sandy soil, with low tire pressures, won't the tires separate from the bead a little and let grit into the gap?
RRR-K2 03-04-2004 05:21 PM

I use Hakka 1's on my '91 2.2 Legacy, and usually run my pressures in the low 20s. If it's icey (which I know, you'll never see in FL :lol: ) I tend to run 15-18psi. In over 5 years of RallyCrossing with this set-up I've [B]NEVER[/B] popped a bead, and it's not like I tip-toe around the course (just ask anybody in the NE :D )

I tend to think that the reason people pop so many beads is that they inflate their tires too much, which means they don't have enough give; so instead of flexing, they just pop. Also, make sure you are sliding the car to set it for a turn, NOT to scrub speed; that will also lead to rolling a tire over and popping the bead.

And as Rob said, a higher pressure in the rear will help the car to "oversteer" - just like a stiffer sway-bar in the rear.

Matt Kennedy
[URL=http://www.RockyRoadRacing.com][U][COLOR=darkred]www.RockyRoadRacing.com[/COLOR][/U][/URL]
"Tires - the forgotten link in a car's suspension."
ANZAC_1915 03-04-2004 06:31 PM

I'd run 32-35 PSI or lower if VERY muddy. [PS sorry I meant on rally meats, not the RE92s]

The trick with rallycross is to remember your times are cumulative. Try to set good consistent fast times without losing it.

Autocross rewards the "one fast run" you make. Rallycross is like rally. To finish first, first you must finish...

Glenn
Fred 03-04-2004 08:31 PM

Tires - I set my extremely soft sidewalled Continentals at 40psi front & rear and then ignored them for the rest of the day.

Driving style - I drove a modified autox line. Don't remember all the details, but basically you just constantly sample the traction and keep your foot off the floor unless you're going straight for a while or you're sideways - which I was a lot for the first couple of runs. :lol: Brake and try to pitch the car so that you power out of the turn heading straight for the next element, but don't pitch the car too much or you'll get off the line and be extremely slow - you'll expend a LOT of energy trying to get back where you wanted to be. Don't try to pendulum turn, drift or whatever like you see on TV - you'll be extremely slow if you do. (Unless you just want to have fun. Fast is fun, but imo slower can be even more fun. ;) ) Run the tightest line you can for turnarounds, and if you feel like you're going too slow, you're just about right. Certain people at the last rallyx here pitched their cars and drifted the turnarounds full throttle, and my wife kicked their hineys (but they were pretty entertaining). If there are muddy or super-deep ruts, don't get sucked into them - drive around them. You shouldn't lose any time, and your car will like you better. Drive where the grip is - at start or wherever - meaning if other folks have dug up the grass in 2 ruts leaving loose dirt or mud, straddle the ruts to get stronger acceleration.

That's about all I can think right now, except

RUN WITH YOUR WINDOWS UP!!! :eek:

:lol:

And have fun. I'll be rooting for you.
slowmike 03-04-2004 09:13 PM

I ran RE92's at the Ridgecrest Rally-X and had them at 44 PSI, still rolled one of them over enough to get dirt in the bead and a slow leak after the third run. I drove like a mad man, not smooth at all and had the time of my life. Greatfully they stopped the competition after the third run or I would have DNFed. Bring spares in case you do roll a bead off.
Burnout 03-04-2004 11:33 PM

My modo, throw as much dirt up as you can, get as sideways as you can as fast as you can!:disco: Oh yeh, have fun.

[IMG]http://www.nctuners.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46;id=42;image[/IMG]
Fred 03-05-2004 08:29 AM

Yeah, that was definitely fun to watch. :D Note the guy shielding himself from the dirt bath at the left of the 4th frame. :lol:
DrBiggly 03-05-2004 10:33 AM

I was there...what those photos don't show is how friggin cold it was that day! It was something like 20 degrees plus a significant wind when we got there. It warmed up to about 30 during lunch and we were all like "Wow it's warm outside!" :lol:

I'd still do it again. :D
DrBiggly 03-05-2004 10:34 AM

I just remembered! Here is a picture of Kevin Hoff's car from the same rallyx...

[IMG]http://drbiggly.com/racing/photos/rallyx1-31-2004/IMG_6765-small.jpg[/IMG]
kwh29 03-05-2004 11:40 AM

lol that pic is my least favorite of the batch because I'm so off line.

It was a very fun event, despite the cold.

--Kevin H.
DrBiggly 03-05-2004 12:03 PM

Bah. The picture looks cool. Go find a better one and put it up if you don't like that one! :p
RB5 Clone 03-05-2004 03:15 PM

1st...secret to FAST rallyX runs
Stick to first gear for the whole run. Sounds crazy, but works.

You hit the rev limiter alot, sure, but this means you just stop accelerating for a second or two and then it's time to slow down for the next turn anyways. You don't lose time shifting up and down, which adds up quickly.

Snap-lifting from the top of 1st is quite effective as braking, plus then you have max torque available to dig you out of one turn and into the next.

Cars with unusually high 1st-gear ratios have a real advantage when driven this way. Older Mitsu Galants make awesome rallyX wagens because of an unusually tall 1st gear. Scoobys (esp GC8 2.5 RS w/close-ratio gearboxes) can benefit greatly from running higher-profile tires (like 205/70 forester or Outback units) , which effectively raise gear ratios.

Try it, you'll be amazed.

Cheers,

Dave G
Last Ditch Racing
Opie 03-05-2004 03:21 PM

I would...but mine's an auto :)

I guess I could hit the old "Manual" mode button and put it in first that way.....
Fred 03-05-2004 03:49 PM

Holy crap - you guys must have really tight courses! On our courses, I exceed 50mph in the RS several times - although when I played around with my mom's auto tranny Forester on the course during the "field prep" day, I only wanted second gear in a couple of spots, briefly. And it did get a little tighter after the cones were laid out, so the Forester auto probably would've just bumped the limiter a couple of times during the actual event.
Chromer 03-05-2004 04:02 PM

In that case, leave the line in first, shift it to second before you hit the rev limiter, and then just leave it there.

At least, that worked OK for me the one time I rallycrossed my auto Forester. With practice it's possible to smoothly manually blip a 4eat back down to first gear under braking, but I doubt you'll have time to think about it. I certainly didn't.

Oh yeah, in 2nd the auto's torque-split is locked, so you can hang the tail out easily...
wrrrx 03-05-2004 04:54 PM

Yeah, I think Auto trannys prolly work great for RallyX!

This thread brings up an excellent point that always perplexes me- "air up" or "air down"?:confused: :confused:
Even the folks agreeing w/ each other "disagree" on that...
We've got 44psi to 25psi! I generally run 23-25 psi, but since Rob's been showing up, I'll hafta figure out a new tactic... :lol:
Oh well- I guess it wouldn't be as bad to be beat by an RS (wouldn't be the first time!) rather than his frickin' Ce-LEEK-uh (Brit pronounciation).. :lol:

Hmmm... Since I'll be in Open this year, and haven't a snowball's chance in H-ee-dbl toothpicks (<- new FCC appvd swear word! ;) ) of trophying, mebbe I'll experiment- 2 runs at 44psi and 2 runs at 22 psi!?
Sounds like a plan...

Russ R
RB5 Clone 03-05-2004 05:00 PM

1st = best
Here in the NEDiv (Northeast), we have quite the active rallyX program, basically a race every month all year. Courses ARE tight, in a deliberate effort to keep speeds down so that the average street driver in average street car (modded somewhat, to be sure) keeps things shiny side up.

High-end speeds are maybe 45 mph but you all know that in rallyX, run-to-run consistency counts way more than momentary top speed for a few meters of a certain course section.

Staying in first is the way the top guys in NEDiv stay on top. It's a classic case of "sometimes to go fast you gotta go slow" because often the guys who grab second get going way too quick on the faster sections, which lulls them into smacking cones or getting big OCs when the course setters bite them in the butt by luring you into tight squiggles after fast sweepers. (Which the Evil Course Setter Guys love to do, right?)

Staying in first keeps you slow enough to stay out of big trouble, yet gets you back up to speed so fast after the tight bits that it all ends up faster than you realize. Try it, and initially you might think, "well, THAT run sucked" when in fact it's one of the day's fastest.

Go ahead, keep running in second so I can beat ya!

Dave G

PS--running in second definitely helps in low-grip situations like snow or ice (less crazy wasteful wheelspin), but that's not likely in the South. In the deep dirt, you won't believe the difference!
ANZAC_1915 03-05-2004 07:34 PM

I once had a run that was something like .04 from FTOD that included forgetting to use the clutch when braking hard in mud and stalling the engine and restarting it. :)
Fred 03-05-2004 08:00 PM

I haven't had a whole lot of experience in the dirt (actually running a defined course, that is) but I feel like I can rotate the car easier in 2nd than in 1st. Am I doing something wrong?

Also - the RS I have has had a problem when trying to go into 1st gear once it's rolling, so I just avoid trying to downshift to 1st at all once I'm in 2nd.

Oh, at the 1st rallyx I would lock up the brakes and downshift to 1st for tighter stuff, so that experience is what I'm using for comparison to the 2nd rallyx, where I stayed in 2nd the entire course. Placed 3rd overall the 1st time, won the 2nd one. (that had more to do with trying to have fun vs. trying to go fast, though... ;) ) Set FTD on the afternoon course at both events. (takes a little time for me to get the funsies out of my system :lol: )
MRF582 03-05-2004 11:04 PM

sooo, what pressures then for RE-92's? i'll be at the one in Fort Meade, a nice 3hr drive for me but i think it'll be worth it. i've driven in snow quite often since i lived in rochester, NY for 2 years and Pittsburgh, PA for 4 years. how different is gravel, mud compared to that?
wrrrx 03-06-2004 01:10 PM

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by MRF582 [/i]
[B]sooo, what pressures then for RE-92's? i'll be at the one in Fort Meade, a nice 3hr drive for me but i think it'll be worth it. i've driven in snow quite often since i lived in rochester, NY for 2 years and Pittsburgh, PA for 4 years. how different is gravel, mud compared to that? [/B][/QUOTE]

I don't think you'll get a consensus, judging from the rest of the thread...
Some will tell you 44 psi, some 25psi!

My .02 is; if it's pretty flat (i.e. no real elevation changes), and slick, either from mud or a water truck, is go "low".
Of course, feel free to do a run or two at high psi and compare!

Good luck!
Don't sweat it too much- just go have fun,
Russ R
thechickencow 03-06-2004 01:50 PM

I always ran my re92's @ 40psi or so. Our course usually gets pretty rutted. I tend to ride with the ruts also, so that may be another thing that helped me never pop a bead.

Then I got rally tires....
Opie 03-06-2004 10:59 PM

:D <----- Me after today's rally-x :D

I did way better than I ever expected! My ole 4EAT '91 Legacy Turbo got put in a class called O4 with all of the WRX's & STi's (basically anything AWD with large displacement or a turbo and standard street tires) and I ended up in 2nd place! I was actually tied with the STi that beat me up until the last run where I picked a bad line and lost 2 hundreths of a seconds to the STi! :( I did however beat 2 other STi drivers and quite a few WRX'rs! :disco:

I ended up running the RE92's at 38psi all the way around and it seemed pretty good, course was dry & dusty and got pretty rutted up but it was a blast! Also ran the car with the Manual Mode turned "on" and in 2nd gear...fun, fun stuff. Results should be posted on the website soon...I was #19 :D

Thanks for all the advice!

EDIT:fixed the class! tnks!
MRF582 03-07-2004 07:36 AM

yeah you beat me man, i came in 4th. so i lost to you and 2 other STi's. and i lost to you by a lot too. like almost .30 of a minute. good job man. i was in car # 142 btw.

EDIT : we were in O4 btw not U4. U4 was for N/A awd under 2.5L
Opie 03-07-2004 07:45 PM

...and how hard was I pushing you ask! :D

[IMG]http://www.mitsubishirally.com/rally/rally_409.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.mitsubishirally.com/rally/rally_298.jpg[/IMG]

More details and pics in this thread: [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=516506[/url]
Fred 03-07-2004 08:56 PM

Way to go! :)
RRR-K2 03-07-2004 09:59 PM

Congrats!

By the way, who did you steal the rims from ;)

Matt Kennedy
[URL=http://www.RockyRoadRacing.com][COLOR=darkred][U]www.RockyRoadRacing.com[/U][/COLOR][/URL]
Opie 03-07-2004 11:10 PM

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by RRR-K2 [/i]
[B]Congrats!
By the way, who did you steal the rims from ;) [/B][/QUOTE]
<----They are the stockers off my other Subaru! :D
RRR-K2 03-07-2004 11:23 PM

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Opie [/i]
[B]<----They are the stockers off my other Subaru! :D [/B][/QUOTE]

I know, that's what the ;) was for.

I'll be sure to use the [COLOR=darkblue][sarcasm] [/sarcasm][/COLOR] tag next time ;) ;)

Matt
Opie 03-09-2004 01:03 PM

Results are up! : [url]http://www.planetarydomination.com/Rally/Results/Results_030604.htm[/url]

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