| eclip5e | 03-22-2007 10:47 AM |
Reducing vehicle weight
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I'd like to get a thread going about how to reduce vehicle weight.
First question beyond the obvious things:
Auxillary Emission control devices (canister, purge control solenoid valve, pressure control solenoid valve) : Do we need them, for what, how easy is it to remove them?
This is the little box you'll find under the body of the trunk, with hoses going back into your intake manifold. I believe it takes fuel vapors from the gas tank and burns them in the combustion process periodically, but I'm not sure.
First question beyond the obvious things:
Auxillary Emission control devices (canister, purge control solenoid valve, pressure control solenoid valve) : Do we need them, for what, how easy is it to remove them?
This is the little box you'll find under the body of the trunk, with hoses going back into your intake manifold. I believe it takes fuel vapors from the gas tank and burns them in the combustion process periodically, but I'm not sure.
| KC | 03-22-2007 10:57 AM |
What sucks is in your case I can't say 'go on a diet'. You're a farking rail as it is already. :lol:
Anything that won't throw a check engine light and hamper the ECU from keeping anything from working the way it should, IMHO, can be removed. :)
Info on that box:[QUOTE]Gasoline evaporates quite easily. In the past, these evaporative emissions were vented into the atmosphere. 20% of all HC emissions from the automobile are from the gas tank. In 1970 legislation was passed, prohibiting venting of gas tank fumes into the atmosphere. An evaporative control system was developed to eliminate this source of pollution. The function of the fuel evaporative control system is to trap and store evaporative emissions from the gas tank and carburetor. A charcoal canister is used to trap the fuel vapors. [B]The fuel vapors adhere to the charcoal, until the engine is started, and engine vacuum can be used to draw the vapors into the engine, so that they can be burned along with the fuel/air mixture. This system requires the use of a sealed gas tank filler cap.[/B] This cap is so important to the operation of the system, that a test of the cap is now being integrated into many state emission inspection programs. Pre-1970 cars released fuel vapors into the atmosphere through the use of a vented gas cap. Today with the use of sealed caps, redesigned gas tanks are used. The tank has to have the space for the vapors to collect so that they can then be vented to the charcoal canister. A purge valve is used to control the vapor flow into the engine. [B]The purge valve is operated by engine vacuum. One common problem with this system is that the purge valve goes bad and engine vacuum draws fuel directly into the intake system.[/B] This enriches the fuel mixture and will foul the spark plugs. Most charcoal canisters have a filter that should be replaced periodically. This system should be checked when fuel mileage drops.[/QUOTE]
I'd say that you might be able to replace that with just a hose that bypasses it. But that's just a guess. If you take out that system, then you need to program your fuel maps to compensate.
--kC
Anything that won't throw a check engine light and hamper the ECU from keeping anything from working the way it should, IMHO, can be removed. :)
Info on that box:[QUOTE]Gasoline evaporates quite easily. In the past, these evaporative emissions were vented into the atmosphere. 20% of all HC emissions from the automobile are from the gas tank. In 1970 legislation was passed, prohibiting venting of gas tank fumes into the atmosphere. An evaporative control system was developed to eliminate this source of pollution. The function of the fuel evaporative control system is to trap and store evaporative emissions from the gas tank and carburetor. A charcoal canister is used to trap the fuel vapors. [B]The fuel vapors adhere to the charcoal, until the engine is started, and engine vacuum can be used to draw the vapors into the engine, so that they can be burned along with the fuel/air mixture. This system requires the use of a sealed gas tank filler cap.[/B] This cap is so important to the operation of the system, that a test of the cap is now being integrated into many state emission inspection programs. Pre-1970 cars released fuel vapors into the atmosphere through the use of a vented gas cap. Today with the use of sealed caps, redesigned gas tanks are used. The tank has to have the space for the vapors to collect so that they can then be vented to the charcoal canister. A purge valve is used to control the vapor flow into the engine. [B]The purge valve is operated by engine vacuum. One common problem with this system is that the purge valve goes bad and engine vacuum draws fuel directly into the intake system.[/B] This enriches the fuel mixture and will foul the spark plugs. Most charcoal canisters have a filter that should be replaced periodically. This system should be checked when fuel mileage drops.[/QUOTE]
I'd say that you might be able to replace that with just a hose that bypasses it. But that's just a guess. If you take out that system, then you need to program your fuel maps to compensate.
--kC
| JoBoo | 03-22-2007 11:59 AM |
RR,
The obvious thing first, check the rule book. I think you can still easily remove about another 100lbs from your car legally, just a matter of how much $$$ you want to spend!
If youre going to go COM-SPB then there's more dieting that can be had! Dont know if youre planning running other series this year..
The obvious thing first, check the rule book. I think you can still easily remove about another 100lbs from your car legally, just a matter of how much $$$ you want to spend!
If youre going to go COM-SPB then there's more dieting that can be had! Dont know if youre planning running other series this year..
| eclip5e | 03-22-2007 12:53 PM |
These are all parts of my plan, I'm not taking action until I've read the rules a bit more.
KC, where'd you get that description? I want to see the source.
KC, where'd you get that description? I want to see the source.
| KC | 03-22-2007 12:57 PM |
[url]http://www.secinfo.com/d16j41.24.htm[/url]
--kC
--kC
| STiShawn | 03-22-2007 01:59 PM |
you can remove loads of weight for free or close to it. Read your rules and find out whats legal. then look at:
sound deadening and insulation
AC system
lexan windows?
interior trim
power to manual window conversion
remove parking brake
sunroof delete
gut hood and trunk supports
etc
my co-driver and I pulled 300+ lbs. out of our rally car and the only things that cost money were:
dry ice
beer/rum
aluminum sheet for roof
lexan/plexi
the rest was sweat equity and creativity
sound deadening and insulation
AC system
lexan windows?
interior trim
power to manual window conversion
remove parking brake
sunroof delete
gut hood and trunk supports
etc
my co-driver and I pulled 300+ lbs. out of our rally car and the only things that cost money were:
dry ice
beer/rum
aluminum sheet for roof
lexan/plexi
the rest was sweat equity and creativity
| JoBoo | 03-22-2007 02:03 PM |
just throwing more info for you...
if you have a leak or or plugup in the evap system you will most likely get a cel. This was true at least for the 02wrx. Marotta had this problem and it took a while to figure it out. Im not sure that even if you bypass it, the ecu will be happy. A reflash of the ecu could probably take care of that easily I would imagine
if you have a leak or or plugup in the evap system you will most likely get a cel. This was true at least for the 02wrx. Marotta had this problem and it took a while to figure it out. Im not sure that even if you bypass it, the ecu will be happy. A reflash of the ecu could probably take care of that easily I would imagine
| 555ideways | 03-22-2007 04:21 PM |
i was thinking a surge tank for the fuel system would be a huge help for saving weight. If you could run really light on fuel for a TT you'd squeeze out a couple tenths.
| JoBoo | 03-22-2007 06:03 PM |
Surge tank would be great! that way we dont always have to drive around with a half tank of gas!! Although, Im not sure that this was as big a problem withe the wrx as it is with the sti.
With weight reduction start at the front of the car. Even though there are easy things to get rid of in the back, you will have more effective weight reduction in the front such that you get better weight balance. Obviously, even more so as you drop unsprung weight.
With weight reduction start at the front of the car. Even though there are easy things to get rid of in the back, you will have more effective weight reduction in the front such that you get better weight balance. Obviously, even more so as you drop unsprung weight.
| eclip5e | 03-22-2007 07:33 PM |
[QUOTE=555ideways;17449878]i was thinking a surge tank for the fuel system would be a huge help for saving weight. If you could run really light on fuel for a TT you'd squeeze out a couple tenths.[/QUOTE]
Its a great idea. In corner 6 at NHIS (the bowl) i routinely get starvation anytime below 1/4 full, this would help.
[QUOTE=STiShawn;17447775]
...
my co-driver and I pulled 300+ lbs. out of our rally car and the only things that cost money were:
dry ice
beer/rum
aluminum sheet for roof
lexan/plexi
the rest was sweat equity and creativity[/QUOTE]
I was going to do the dry ice technique, but then i waited for a cold New England day and it worked just as nice. :banana:
Its a great idea. In corner 6 at NHIS (the bowl) i routinely get starvation anytime below 1/4 full, this would help.
[QUOTE=STiShawn;17447775]
...
my co-driver and I pulled 300+ lbs. out of our rally car and the only things that cost money were:
dry ice
beer/rum
aluminum sheet for roof
lexan/plexi
the rest was sweat equity and creativity[/QUOTE]
I was going to do the dry ice technique, but then i waited for a cold New England day and it worked just as nice. :banana:
| williaty | 03-22-2007 09:30 PM |
What about an aluminum or other lightweight hood?
Don't forget the front and rear JDM bumper beams.
Removal of the front subframe if you're not worried about head on impacts.
Does anyone actually make a manual window conversion for the GD/GGs?
Don't forget the front and rear JDM bumper beams.
Removal of the front subframe if you're not worried about head on impacts.
Does anyone actually make a manual window conversion for the GD/GGs?
| RyanC | 03-22-2007 10:39 PM |
Hey Rockstar, what class you running this year?
Before you go and spend any chedda on the ride and making it lighter, lets make sure you are taking advantage of everything you already have, first. That leaves more dough for yer JDM honey, y0!
Before you go and spend any chedda on the ride and making it lighter, lets make sure you are taking advantage of everything you already have, first. That leaves more dough for yer JDM honey, y0!
| martinus | 03-22-2007 11:41 PM |
You [i]need[/i] the charcoal canister and all the plumbing that goes along with it.
Its is also the reason you do not want to overfill your gas tank. ( on any car. ) Stop pumping at the 1st click. ( you do not want to clog any of it. )
Since we ALL KNOW that its the fuel/gas vapors/fumes that are flamable not the liquid form. I def. would not do it. Even if it is a "racecar".
I guess if you do NOT garage the thing, ( and I def. would keep it a garage with fumes escaping ) put a huge sign on it that states :
" please do not smoke around my car, I removed important componets of my car which causes fuel vapors to escape and hang around my car. So please do not turn my car and yourself into huge fire ball. "
Just as someone quoted above. The fuel tank is not sealed it "breathes" into the charcoal canister, ( fuel vapors need somwhere to go, or else a non vented fuel tank vould look like beach ball after a while. A vented straight to atmosphere tank would need the sign I was joking about. ) which the engine then ( after start up ) burns.
I prolly start with all the easy stuff. Spare, tools, seats, door cars, headliner, sunroof, bumper beams, glass, all the rubber door seals, carpet, dash, etc.
Depends on how hard core you are. I had a 96 jetta down to 1850 Lbs. ( wet ) it wasnt a drag race car eiter ...
Its is also the reason you do not want to overfill your gas tank. ( on any car. ) Stop pumping at the 1st click. ( you do not want to clog any of it. )
Since we ALL KNOW that its the fuel/gas vapors/fumes that are flamable not the liquid form. I def. would not do it. Even if it is a "racecar".
I guess if you do NOT garage the thing, ( and I def. would keep it a garage with fumes escaping ) put a huge sign on it that states :
" please do not smoke around my car, I removed important componets of my car which causes fuel vapors to escape and hang around my car. So please do not turn my car and yourself into huge fire ball. "
Just as someone quoted above. The fuel tank is not sealed it "breathes" into the charcoal canister, ( fuel vapors need somwhere to go, or else a non vented fuel tank vould look like beach ball after a while. A vented straight to atmosphere tank would need the sign I was joking about. ) which the engine then ( after start up ) burns.
I prolly start with all the easy stuff. Spare, tools, seats, door cars, headliner, sunroof, bumper beams, glass, all the rubber door seals, carpet, dash, etc.
Depends on how hard core you are. I had a 96 jetta down to 1850 Lbs. ( wet ) it wasnt a drag race car eiter ...
| KC | 03-23-2007 08:04 AM |
[QUOTE=RyanC;17454545]Hey Rockstar, what class you running this year?
Before you go and spend any chedda on the ride and making it lighter, lets make sure you are taking advantage of everything you already have, first. That leaves more dough for yer JDM honey, y0![/QUOTE]
Always thinking, you.
What class are you in? I'm looking at ST4 right now, just a few more things to buy for the Honda (brakes/seats/roll bar, maybe steering wheel) and the suspension is ready to go in. Engine and tranny is in, and from what I hear, it sounds good.
How much leeway is there with the tire rule, specifically with tires that may go out of the fenderwell (the angle wording has me all confused).
--kC
(Can't wait for a Honda m4d t1t3 t0ug3 b4tt13 this year...) :lol:
Before you go and spend any chedda on the ride and making it lighter, lets make sure you are taking advantage of everything you already have, first. That leaves more dough for yer JDM honey, y0![/QUOTE]
Always thinking, you.
What class are you in? I'm looking at ST4 right now, just a few more things to buy for the Honda (brakes/seats/roll bar, maybe steering wheel) and the suspension is ready to go in. Engine and tranny is in, and from what I hear, it sounds good.
How much leeway is there with the tire rule, specifically with tires that may go out of the fenderwell (the angle wording has me all confused).
--kC
(Can't wait for a Honda m4d t1t3 t0ug3 b4tt13 this year...) :lol:
| crystalhelix | 03-23-2007 09:47 AM |
Scooby South Started a component weight thread
some info I put together..(with help)
[url]http://www.spryracing.com/FAQS/technical/componentweights/ComponentWeightsMaster.htm[/url]
some info I put together..(with help)
[url]http://www.spryracing.com/FAQS/technical/componentweights/ComponentWeightsMaster.htm[/url]
| leecea | 03-23-2007 11:28 AM |
[QUOTE=martinus;17455166]...fuel vapors need somwhere to go, or else a non vented fuel tank vould look like beach ball after a while...[/QUOTE]
I very much doubt that the pressure inside a closed tank will get very high. We have closed gasoline containers all the time - the little red plastic 'lawn mower' type jugs. Sure, they get pressurized but not enough to expand the container. There must be a reason not to have a closed tank, but I don't think that's it.
I very much doubt that the pressure inside a closed tank will get very high. We have closed gasoline containers all the time - the little red plastic 'lawn mower' type jugs. Sure, they get pressurized but not enough to expand the container. There must be a reason not to have a closed tank, but I don't think that's it.
| Jack | 03-23-2007 01:16 PM |
Do you plan to stay in ST? As much as it gives you a lot of leaway on brakes and suspension, it gives you none as far as engine is concerned. Just like in SCCA....if the rulebook doesn't specifically say you CAN do it, you can't. Jumping to SPB is a Huge jump. But if you already have engine mods, then you're there anyways. Welcome to competition with CTKAG :D.
Now, if you REALLY want to have fun.....just skip right by SP and join me in the true darkside and run prepared. Then, your only limit is your imagination. Lexan side windows? What side windows? Look closely at my CRX. Actually you don't have to look real close to notice lack of luxury items like a dash, heater, lights. A sawzall is your friend. I'd expect to be able to get that pig down to a hair over 2000 pounds.
jack
Now, if you REALLY want to have fun.....just skip right by SP and join me in the true darkside and run prepared. Then, your only limit is your imagination. Lexan side windows? What side windows? Look closely at my CRX. Actually you don't have to look real close to notice lack of luxury items like a dash, heater, lights. A sawzall is your friend. I'd expect to be able to get that pig down to a hair over 2000 pounds.
jack
| RyanC | 03-23-2007 01:17 PM |
[QUOTE=KC;17457047]Always thinking, you.
What class are you in? I'm looking at ST4 right now, just a few more things to buy for the Honda (brakes/seats/roll bar, maybe steering wheel) and the suspension is ready to go in. Engine and tranny is in, and from what I hear, it sounds good.
How much leeway is there with the tire rule, specifically with tires that may go out of the fenderwell (the angle wording has me all confused).
--kC
(Can't wait for a Honda m4d t1t3 t0ug3 b4tt13 this year...) :lol:[/QUOTE]
SPC - motor swap dictates this by default, plus I have lexan side windows and a fiberglass hood.
The top of the tire needs to stay within the fenderwell, and you can't move the fender lip to get it to cover a tire that sticks out. I'm running 205/50 15s and the tire is tucked pretty far inside; what setup do you have that makes you concerned?
What class are you in? I'm looking at ST4 right now, just a few more things to buy for the Honda (brakes/seats/roll bar, maybe steering wheel) and the suspension is ready to go in. Engine and tranny is in, and from what I hear, it sounds good.
How much leeway is there with the tire rule, specifically with tires that may go out of the fenderwell (the angle wording has me all confused).
--kC
(Can't wait for a Honda m4d t1t3 t0ug3 b4tt13 this year...) :lol:[/QUOTE]
SPC - motor swap dictates this by default, plus I have lexan side windows and a fiberglass hood.
The top of the tire needs to stay within the fenderwell, and you can't move the fender lip to get it to cover a tire that sticks out. I'm running 205/50 15s and the tire is tucked pretty far inside; what setup do you have that makes you concerned?
| KC | 03-23-2007 02:41 PM |
13x9s with 225/50-13 Hoosiers. :)
So what you're saying is if I run enough negative camber.... :lol:
--kC
So what you're saying is if I run enough negative camber.... :lol:
--kC
| eclip5e | 03-23-2007 03:05 PM |
[QUOTE=RyanC;17454545]Hey Rockstar, what class you running this year?
Before you go and spend any chedda on the ride and making it lighter, lets make sure you are taking advantage of everything you already have, first. That leaves more dough for yer JDM honey, y0![/QUOTE]
ST2.
[QUOTE=Jack ffr1846;17460504]Do you plan to stay in ST? As much as it gives you a lot of leaway on brakes and suspension, it gives you none as far as engine is concerned. Just like in SCCA....if the rulebook doesn't specifically say you CAN do it, you can't. Jumping to SPB is a Huge jump. But if you already have engine mods, then you're there anyways. Welcome to competition with CTKAG :D.
Now, if you REALLY want to have fun.....just skip right by SP and join me in the true darkside and run prepared. Then, your only limit is your imagination. Lexan side windows? What side windows? Look closely at my CRX. Actually you don't have to look real close to notice lack of luxury items like a dash, heater, lights. A sawzall is your friend. I'd expect to be able to get that pig down to a hair over 2000 pounds.
jack[/QUOTE]
I'm happy with brakes and suspension right now, I just need to play with the settings a bit.
SPB is for next season.
Before you go and spend any chedda on the ride and making it lighter, lets make sure you are taking advantage of everything you already have, first. That leaves more dough for yer JDM honey, y0![/QUOTE]
ST2.
[QUOTE=Jack ffr1846;17460504]Do you plan to stay in ST? As much as it gives you a lot of leaway on brakes and suspension, it gives you none as far as engine is concerned. Just like in SCCA....if the rulebook doesn't specifically say you CAN do it, you can't. Jumping to SPB is a Huge jump. But if you already have engine mods, then you're there anyways. Welcome to competition with CTKAG :D.
Now, if you REALLY want to have fun.....just skip right by SP and join me in the true darkside and run prepared. Then, your only limit is your imagination. Lexan side windows? What side windows? Look closely at my CRX. Actually you don't have to look real close to notice lack of luxury items like a dash, heater, lights. A sawzall is your friend. I'd expect to be able to get that pig down to a hair over 2000 pounds.
jack[/QUOTE]
I'm happy with brakes and suspension right now, I just need to play with the settings a bit.
SPB is for next season.
| Jack | 03-23-2007 03:13 PM |
[QUOTE=KC;17461789]13x9s with 225/50-13 Hoosiers. :)
So what you're saying is if I run enough negative camber.... :lol:
--kC[/QUOTE]
You got something against the 225-45-13's?
9 inch wheels!!! I got the above on 7 inchers and Chang used to run them on 5.5's!
Prepared......do whateverthehellyouwanttothebody. Come to the dark side!
jack
So what you're saying is if I run enough negative camber.... :lol:
--kC[/QUOTE]
You got something against the 225-45-13's?
9 inch wheels!!! I got the above on 7 inchers and Chang used to run them on 5.5's!
Prepared......do whateverthehellyouwanttothebody. Come to the dark side!
jack
| KC | 03-23-2007 03:33 PM |
[QUOTE=Jack ffr1846;17462236]Prepared......do whateverthehellyouwanttothebody. Come to the dark side!
jack[/QUOTE] Maybe if I put in a good amt of overtime, and get the raise I'm expecting in July. ;)
Heck, at this point in time, I don't even know if I'm going to make it to ANY track days with the car this year... Most of them are on weekdays...
--kC
jack[/QUOTE] Maybe if I put in a good amt of overtime, and get the raise I'm expecting in July. ;)
Heck, at this point in time, I don't even know if I'm going to make it to ANY track days with the car this year... Most of them are on weekdays...
--kC
| RyanC | 03-23-2007 06:19 PM |
[QUOTE=KC;17462500]Maybe if I put in a good amt of overtime, and get the raise I'm expecting in July. ;)
Heck, at this point in time, I don't even know if I'm going to make it to ANY track days with the car this year... Most of them are on weekdays...
--kC[/QUOTE]
Meh, I thought you were dedicated... wuss!
Hey, make me up some decals, wouldya? 239 SPC in a copper red would do fine
Heck, at this point in time, I don't even know if I'm going to make it to ANY track days with the car this year... Most of them are on weekdays...
--kC[/QUOTE]
Meh, I thought you were dedicated... wuss!
Hey, make me up some decals, wouldya? 239 SPC in a copper red would do fine
| greg donovan | 03-23-2007 07:59 PM |
[QUOTE=leecea;17458876]I very much doubt that the pressure inside a closed tank will get very high. We have closed gasoline containers all the time - the little red plastic 'lawn mower' type jugs. Sure, they get pressurized but not enough to expand the container. There must be a reason not to have a closed tank, but I don't think that's it.[/QUOTE]
i have had those little red gas tanks get "puffy" looking.
i have had those little red gas tanks get "puffy" looking.
| UnNaturalinc | 03-24-2007 03:50 PM |
I love making cars lighter.... It's like a match of creativeness versus personal comfort level.
| 68Cadillac | 03-24-2007 06:27 PM |
The Search Button
�
�
We could start this all over again or you could [URL="http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292590"]just go here[/URL].
| solo-x | 03-24-2007 10:56 PM |
Jack, you don't need a sawzall to get a 93 Si down to 2000lbs. Now, to get some parts of the rear suspension out....
The wheels are actually 13x8's with a 5" backspace. I thought autocrossers were the rules nazi's? :D
The wheels are actually 13x8's with a 5" backspace. I thought autocrossers were the rules nazi's? :D
| martinus | 03-24-2007 11:13 PM |
[QUOTE=leecea;17458876]I very much doubt that the pressure inside a closed tank will get very high. We have closed gasoline containers all the time - the little red plastic 'lawn mower' type jugs. Sure, they get pressurized but not enough to expand the container. There must be a reason not to have a closed tank, but I don't think that's it.[/QUOTE]
I don't want to "flame" you... but have you noticed that all the new gas tanks or containers have an auto breater/pop-off valve. ( why do you think that is ? )
Try, and buy one of the "old" fashoned gas containers. ( The kind with the little nipple with the cap on it, oppisite the pour nozzle. )
If you have one put a cup of gas/fuel in it and leave it in the sun. See what happenes. OK I'm not a total ass, don't do that. Yes it would look like a beach ball. Right before it pops.
The gas tank is also vented so air can get in. Think about it all the gas gooing to the motor must get replaced with air. ..or it would implode.
... and that is why you should NEVER replace your gas cap with a cheap gas station/wall mart kind.
... and diesel's dont have any of it. ( evap crap. )
I don't want to "flame" you... but have you noticed that all the new gas tanks or containers have an auto breater/pop-off valve. ( why do you think that is ? )
Try, and buy one of the "old" fashoned gas containers. ( The kind with the little nipple with the cap on it, oppisite the pour nozzle. )
If you have one put a cup of gas/fuel in it and leave it in the sun. See what happenes. OK I'm not a total ass, don't do that. Yes it would look like a beach ball. Right before it pops.
The gas tank is also vented so air can get in. Think about it all the gas gooing to the motor must get replaced with air. ..or it would implode.
... and that is why you should NEVER replace your gas cap with a cheap gas station/wall mart kind.
... and diesel's dont have any of it. ( evap crap. )
| kwh29 | 03-24-2007 11:31 PM |
And this thread has all the relevant motorsports parts listed if you want to ignore all the annoying "just drive naked" posts in the other component weights thread:
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=945980[/url]
--Kevin H.
[url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=945980[/url]
--Kevin H.
| Craigs | 03-27-2007 12:07 AM |
In ST trim its tough to remove a great deal of weight.
Rear seat and rear carpet, seats, wheels, battery, AC, and radio can go or be changed. Other than that its gonna be protestable.
Rear seat and rear carpet, seats, wheels, battery, AC, and radio can go or be changed. Other than that its gonna be protestable.
| eclip5e | 03-27-2007 01:11 AM |
[QUOTE=Craigs;17497745]In ST trim its tough to remove a great deal of weight.
Rear seat and rear carpet, seats, wheels, battery, AC, and radio can go or be changed. Other than that its gonna be protestable.[/QUOTE]
I'm just about there now, but i have to listen to my Tears for Fears & George Michael. They're fabulous.
Rear seat and rear carpet, seats, wheels, battery, AC, and radio can go or be changed. Other than that its gonna be protestable.[/QUOTE]
I'm just about there now, but i have to listen to my Tears for Fears & George Michael. They're fabulous.
| bdi | 03-27-2007 10:33 PM |
[QUOTE=Craigs;17497745]In ST trim its tough to remove a great deal of weight.
Rear seat and rear carpet, seats, wheels, battery, AC, and radio can go or be changed. Other than that its gonna be protestable.[/QUOTE]
I thought the rear seats had to stay in for ST classes?
Rear seat and rear carpet, seats, wheels, battery, AC, and radio can go or be changed. Other than that its gonna be protestable.[/QUOTE]
I thought the rear seats had to stay in for ST classes?
| Warp3 | 03-28-2007 11:08 AM |
[QUOTE=bdi;17509151]I thought the rear seats had to stay in for ST classes?[/QUOTE]
They do...as does the "rear carpet" unless he is referring to the trunk mat.
They do...as does the "rear carpet" unless he is referring to the trunk mat.
| KC | 03-28-2007 11:15 AM |
[QUOTE=bdi;17509151]I thought the rear seats had to stay in for ST classes?[/QUOTE]
This isn't SCCA classing we're talking about but ST classes for COM Time Trials/HPDE up here in New England. reading the thread, you'd see no mention of SCCA, and all these different class names... ;)
--kC
This isn't SCCA classing we're talking about but ST classes for COM Time Trials/HPDE up here in New England. reading the thread, you'd see no mention of SCCA, and all these different class names... ;)
--kC
| bdi | 03-28-2007 01:02 PM |
[QUOTE=KC;17514172]This isn't SCCA classing we're talking about but ST classes for COM Time Trials/HPDE up here in New England. reading the thread, you'd see no mention of SCCA, and all these different class names... ;)
--kC[/QUOTE]
Gotcha. Thanks
--kC[/QUOTE]
Gotcha. Thanks
| rallynutdon | 03-29-2007 01:12 PM |
[QUOTE=martinus;17455166]You [i]need[/i] the charcoal canister and all the plumbing that goes along with it.
Its is also the reason you do not want to overfill your gas tank. ( on any car. ) Stop pumping at the 1st click. ( you do not want to clog any of it. )
Since we ALL KNOW that its the fuel/gas vapors/fumes that are flamable not the liquid form. I def. would not do it. Even if it is a "racecar".
I guess if you do NOT garage the thing, ( and I def. would keep it a garage with fumes escaping ) put a huge sign on it that states :
" please do not smoke around my car, I removed important componets of my car which causes fuel vapors to escape and hang around my car. So please do not turn my car and yourself into huge fire ball. "
[/QUOTE]
I hate to disagree. But I have a complete WRX drive train in my 93 Impreza rally car without the canister, either the original in the front or the WRX one in the back. It's garaged all the time, sometimes for weeks on end without being touched or moved. Runs fine. No problems with vapors.
Its is also the reason you do not want to overfill your gas tank. ( on any car. ) Stop pumping at the 1st click. ( you do not want to clog any of it. )
Since we ALL KNOW that its the fuel/gas vapors/fumes that are flamable not the liquid form. I def. would not do it. Even if it is a "racecar".
I guess if you do NOT garage the thing, ( and I def. would keep it a garage with fumes escaping ) put a huge sign on it that states :
" please do not smoke around my car, I removed important componets of my car which causes fuel vapors to escape and hang around my car. So please do not turn my car and yourself into huge fire ball. "
[/QUOTE]
I hate to disagree. But I have a complete WRX drive train in my 93 Impreza rally car without the canister, either the original in the front or the WRX one in the back. It's garaged all the time, sometimes for weeks on end without being touched or moved. Runs fine. No problems with vapors.
| martinus | 03-30-2007 09:41 PM |
[QUOTE=rallynutdon;17529447]I hate to disagree. But I have a complete WRX drive train in my 93 Impreza rally car without the canister, either the original in the front or the WRX one in the back. It's garaged all the time, sometimes for weeks on end without being touched or moved. Runs fine. No problems with vapors.[/QUOTE]
Let me re-read, to make sure I understand ...
You have a gas tank,
in car,
that is vented to the atmoshere,
stored in gargage,
and the vapors from the fuel DO NOT fill the garage. Ever. Not even for extemded peroids of time.
Yeah, I'm going to call bull **** on that one.
Where do the fuel vapors/fumes go after exiting the gas tank ?
What did you leave out ? Only a cup of fuel in the tank ? ( fuel fumes are heavier than air so they would find the lowest "spot" to "sit" maybe not enough to leave the tank ... ) open windows on the garage ? no garage door ?
Let me re-read, to make sure I understand ...
You have a gas tank,
in car,
that is vented to the atmoshere,
stored in gargage,
and the vapors from the fuel DO NOT fill the garage. Ever. Not even for extemded peroids of time.
Yeah, I'm going to call bull **** on that one.
Where do the fuel vapors/fumes go after exiting the gas tank ?
What did you leave out ? Only a cup of fuel in the tank ? ( fuel fumes are heavier than air so they would find the lowest "spot" to "sit" maybe not enough to leave the tank ... ) open windows on the garage ? no garage door ?
| speedyHAM | 03-30-2007 09:47 PM |
[QUOTE=martinus;17548511]Let me re-read, to make sure I understand ...
You have a gas tank,
in car,
that is vented to the atmoshere,
stored in gargage,
and the vapors from the fuel DO NOT fill the garage. Ever. Not even for extemded peroids of time.
Yeah, I'm going to call bull **** on that one.
Where do the fuel vapors/fumes go after exiting the gas tank ?
What did you leave out ? Only a cup of fuel in the tank ? ( fuel fumes are heavier than air so they would find the lowest "spot" to "sit" maybe not enough to leave the tank ... ) open windows on the garage ? no garage door ?[/QUOTE]
The '93 gas tank is not vented, my '96 is not vented either and I also am without a vent or charcoal canister anywhere to be found. You don't need it. The gas tank will not explode or balloon out.
You can remove all that junk and have a sealed gas tank without any problems.
You have a gas tank,
in car,
that is vented to the atmoshere,
stored in gargage,
and the vapors from the fuel DO NOT fill the garage. Ever. Not even for extemded peroids of time.
Yeah, I'm going to call bull **** on that one.
Where do the fuel vapors/fumes go after exiting the gas tank ?
What did you leave out ? Only a cup of fuel in the tank ? ( fuel fumes are heavier than air so they would find the lowest "spot" to "sit" maybe not enough to leave the tank ... ) open windows on the garage ? no garage door ?[/QUOTE]
The '93 gas tank is not vented, my '96 is not vented either and I also am without a vent or charcoal canister anywhere to be found. You don't need it. The gas tank will not explode or balloon out.
You can remove all that junk and have a sealed gas tank without any problems.
| rallynutdon | 04-01-2007 04:17 PM |
[QUOTE=martinus;17548511]Let me re-read, to make sure I understand ...
You have a gas tank,
in car,
that is vented to the atmoshere,
stored in gargage,
and the vapors from the fuel DO NOT fill the garage. Ever. Not even for extemded peroids of time.
Yeah, I'm going to call bull **** on that one.
Where do the fuel vapors/fumes go after exiting the gas tank ?
What did you leave out ? Only a cup of fuel in the tank ? ( fuel fumes are heavier than air so they would find the lowest "spot" to "sit" maybe not enough to leave the tank ... ) open windows on the garage ? no garage door ?[/QUOTE]
Nope, never said it was vented to the atmosphere. Just said it doesn't have any canisters. It's vented back into itself, just not thru a canister. No vapor, no fumes cause it's a closed system. Because of that, it fills very slowly cause the displaced air has to come back out the filler tube. Works just fine for a race car!
You have a gas tank,
in car,
that is vented to the atmoshere,
stored in gargage,
and the vapors from the fuel DO NOT fill the garage. Ever. Not even for extemded peroids of time.
Yeah, I'm going to call bull **** on that one.
Where do the fuel vapors/fumes go after exiting the gas tank ?
What did you leave out ? Only a cup of fuel in the tank ? ( fuel fumes are heavier than air so they would find the lowest "spot" to "sit" maybe not enough to leave the tank ... ) open windows on the garage ? no garage door ?[/QUOTE]
Nope, never said it was vented to the atmosphere. Just said it doesn't have any canisters. It's vented back into itself, just not thru a canister. No vapor, no fumes cause it's a closed system. Because of that, it fills very slowly cause the displaced air has to come back out the filler tube. Works just fine for a race car!
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