| hotrod | 09-27-2006 12:07 AM |
Trailers for race cars
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Curious about peoples views on car trailers. I am thinking about building or buying one, and interested in any info folks might have on specific brands to look at, or avoid, and features that are or are not worth their cost.
I figure the folks on this site have probably seen 10,000 different trailer rigs, I'm sure a few of them had neat features that would be nice to include in a built car trailer.
I also figure some of you have put a few thousand miles on trailered cars and have some views about size, braking systems, tiedowns , ramps, hitches, lightning, extra storage cabinets etc. that would be useful to the community at large as well.
Larry
I figure the folks on this site have probably seen 10,000 different trailer rigs, I'm sure a few of them had neat features that would be nice to include in a built car trailer.
I also figure some of you have put a few thousand miles on trailered cars and have some views about size, braking systems, tiedowns , ramps, hitches, lightning, extra storage cabinets etc. that would be useful to the community at large as well.
Larry
| M | 09-27-2006 12:13 AM |
it all depends on what you need it for. What car is it for and how many?
| hotrod | 09-27-2006 12:29 AM |
[quote]it all depends on what you need it for. What car is it for and how many?[/quote]
How many what ?? ;)
single 3000# -5000# lb car
I specifically do not want to limit responses to a single car type or style of competition, so do not want to restrict usage to a single type of racing.
If comments would apply only to a certain class of racing please say so, but all the various racing styles probably have some useful input on trailer setups, be they Auto-x, rally, roadrace, drag racing, tractor pull etc.
Looking for info that will help folks evaluate trailer rigs and possibly come up with interesting home built setups that avoid pitfalls and expensive bad choices.
Larry
How many what ?? ;)
single 3000# -5000# lb car
I specifically do not want to limit responses to a single car type or style of competition, so do not want to restrict usage to a single type of racing.
If comments would apply only to a certain class of racing please say so, but all the various racing styles probably have some useful input on trailer setups, be they Auto-x, rally, roadrace, drag racing, tractor pull etc.
Looking for info that will help folks evaluate trailer rigs and possibly come up with interesting home built setups that avoid pitfalls and expensive bad choices.
Larry
| M | 09-27-2006 09:38 AM |
home built isn't reccomended unless you're already a well etablished fabricator/engineer. Otherwise you're asking for it.
| mrbigisbudgood | 09-27-2006 09:44 AM |
Go enclosed for sure. Get the trailer longer than you need so you can bring your toolboxes etc and throw an air matress in to sleep at the track. When it's parked, use it for storing your car. Install cabinets, air compressor, generator, etc. Enclosed trailers make much more sense than open.
| PhilC | 09-27-2006 09:53 AM |
My experience. Our trailer is a Worthington aluminum with dual 5000 pound axels. Electric brakes on both axels. We bought it used, we've had it about a year and a half and ~10,000 miles on it now. The trailer itself is a very short trailer with pull-out ramps. No ducktail and flip up fender on the drivers side only. Tie downs are simply four flip up rings, two front and two in the rear.
It works quite well and hauls our WRX without a problem.
Some things to think about that I consider negatives with our trailer. Axel attachement if it is an aluminum trailer, we quite literally ripped the front axel off the trailer when I hit a chunk of re-tread on the turnpike, the axel mounting to the trailer was not sufficient to begin with IMO and had fatigued over time. If you are buying used make darn sure to look at how the axels are attached to the trailer and for any metal fatigue in the welds. The jack is only a 600 pound jack, it cannot lift the trailer with the car on it. And the trailer doesn't have a spare tire mount even though we have a spare tire.
Things that I wish we had that I've seen on other trailers:
Ducktail and or slightly longer ramps would make it easier to load a low car.
Wider trailer, ours is only just wide enough to fit a WRX with 235s between the frame rails, no margin means that it really cannot be loaded by a single person without a spotter and it also means that if we decided to go to ESP in the future we'd either have to get a new trailer or swap off the race wheels to load the car.
Flip up fenders suck, you definitely want to find removable or a trailer with low enough fenders that the doors can clear with them in place.
Final thoughts: Aluminum trailers are nice for the weight (ours comes in at about 1700 pounds) and for not having to paint them once every year or two but you have to be VERY careful about how the axels and other hardware are attached to the aluminum frame and deck. I wish our trailer were 2 feet longer and had removable fenders instead of the flip-up. A weight-distributing hitch will help you to learn how to handle the loaded trailer if you've never towed before and even with a light load <5000 pounds in our case, I think it makes your towing, especially on long overnight runs, more relaxing. I would never ever ever put a car on a single axel trailer and I would never want to have surge brakes rather than electric brakes and a good brake controller. And last but not least, before you buy the trailer is the time to figure out where you are going to store it. We've got a home-owners association and cannot store it at home. For the first 6 months we paid $50 per month to park it outside at a U-Store-It 6 miles from here. Now we park it for free at Jen's work.
It works quite well and hauls our WRX without a problem.
Some things to think about that I consider negatives with our trailer. Axel attachement if it is an aluminum trailer, we quite literally ripped the front axel off the trailer when I hit a chunk of re-tread on the turnpike, the axel mounting to the trailer was not sufficient to begin with IMO and had fatigued over time. If you are buying used make darn sure to look at how the axels are attached to the trailer and for any metal fatigue in the welds. The jack is only a 600 pound jack, it cannot lift the trailer with the car on it. And the trailer doesn't have a spare tire mount even though we have a spare tire.
Things that I wish we had that I've seen on other trailers:
Ducktail and or slightly longer ramps would make it easier to load a low car.
Wider trailer, ours is only just wide enough to fit a WRX with 235s between the frame rails, no margin means that it really cannot be loaded by a single person without a spotter and it also means that if we decided to go to ESP in the future we'd either have to get a new trailer or swap off the race wheels to load the car.
Flip up fenders suck, you definitely want to find removable or a trailer with low enough fenders that the doors can clear with them in place.
Final thoughts: Aluminum trailers are nice for the weight (ours comes in at about 1700 pounds) and for not having to paint them once every year or two but you have to be VERY careful about how the axels and other hardware are attached to the aluminum frame and deck. I wish our trailer were 2 feet longer and had removable fenders instead of the flip-up. A weight-distributing hitch will help you to learn how to handle the loaded trailer if you've never towed before and even with a light load <5000 pounds in our case, I think it makes your towing, especially on long overnight runs, more relaxing. I would never ever ever put a car on a single axel trailer and I would never want to have surge brakes rather than electric brakes and a good brake controller. And last but not least, before you buy the trailer is the time to figure out where you are going to store it. We've got a home-owners association and cannot store it at home. For the first 6 months we paid $50 per month to park it outside at a U-Store-It 6 miles from here. Now we park it for free at Jen's work.
| LathanM | 09-27-2006 10:13 AM |
Tall order. You want to go no smaller than 16x8 for a hitch style trailer.It is big enough for most cars and has a little extra room for a small toolbox. 18x8 gives more room for tools and tire racks. If you are going bigger and have a tow rig that can handle it you can look into a 5th wheel model. This are the top level and can be set up as a rolling workshop. Your are going to pay big for one but the rewards are worth it.
Deck choices are going to be wood, diamond plate and expanded metal. If you are doing off road the expanded metal are fairly popular because it is easyier to clean the car while it is on the trailer with less build up on the deck. Wood decks are nice because boards and easily be replaced as they wear. Diamond plate is the strongest but also more expensive. One other issue with diamond plate is it reflects alot of light. In a hot paddock this can really suck. They can alse be slick when wet, so add some grip tape.
There is one additional choice in decking, skid trailers. These are the ones with 2 tracks for the cars tires to go into and an open space in between. These are kind of neat. for some cars they are almost like a mini lift. You can do any under car work with the car on the trailer saving some time.
Try and find one you can add a canopy to. Shade is a luxury at any event so any you cange is welcome. Not to mention protection from rain. Removable/replaceable side rails are also worth paying extra. Opening doors on a trailer can be tricky on trailers with tall rails. Anything over a foot tall should be removable.
Extras that are nice to have are build in tool box mounts. electric jacks for the hitch and 4 corner stabilizers. The last is one I would definately pay extra for if you plan on working on the car while it is on the trailer. These are 4 crank stule jacks that let you brace and level the trailer so it doesn't rock as you move around on it.
Brakes are going to dictated by how much you are towing. Most trailers will recommend a brakeing set for you so just follow their recommendations.
Customization of you trailer is entirely up to you. I see alot of solar battery chargers and power points for small tools. Small 1000w power inverters are also popular on off road trailers. Air tanks are starting to show up more and more. Things like the new co2 airtanks and small nitrogen bottle are droping in price and cam be used for tools or tires. Don't forget food. Tailgater style grills are always showing up on trailers.
Going custom and building your own will give you the most versitility. You you are good with a TIG then you are al set. TrailerPlans.com and other sell plans for $20 to $30 that are easy to follow with all the math already done so you don't overbuild. If you are a MIG guy/gal then modifying an existing trailer is best. The best mod for any trailer is replacing the thin fenders with step style ones. Sooner or later someone is going to try and use the fender as a step so you might as well build them right from the start. You can never have enough tie points so adding extra tabs is easy and can be done as a bolt or weld on.
If you are building or redoing a trailer by 2 wiring kits for the trailer and install both. If you can run the wire inside of the trailer tubes. Having a second set of wires alread run will make repairs easier. Skip fuses for the wiring in favor of breakers. Go for LED lights, they last longer and are more durable. While you are wiring don't forget to ad a circuit or 2 for lighting. Off road style light bars will make working at night easier.
Get good tires and a spare for your trailer. Flats happen and trailer tires are cheap so having a spare ready is a no brainer if you are going to be using the trailer alot. And don't forget a jack. The old style bumper ones are fine for this. If the trailers as built in jacks then you are set.
Ramps are the last piece of any trailer and are often forgotten. I prefer the full with ones over the rail style. These are easier to to load in the dark if you have to load the trialer by yourself. Avoid ramps that don't lock onto the trailer. The hook style ones have been know to stretch over time and slip. The ones that screw or pin to the trailer eliminate this problem.
Bottom line make a list of what you want to take with you to events and use that as you guide. Don't be afraid to start with a basic 18x8 trailer with no extras. You can add them as needed. Wood decks can be changed to metal, rails and boxes can be added, etc. I know several people that went this route and it is probly the most cost effective way to go.
Deck choices are going to be wood, diamond plate and expanded metal. If you are doing off road the expanded metal are fairly popular because it is easyier to clean the car while it is on the trailer with less build up on the deck. Wood decks are nice because boards and easily be replaced as they wear. Diamond plate is the strongest but also more expensive. One other issue with diamond plate is it reflects alot of light. In a hot paddock this can really suck. They can alse be slick when wet, so add some grip tape.
There is one additional choice in decking, skid trailers. These are the ones with 2 tracks for the cars tires to go into and an open space in between. These are kind of neat. for some cars they are almost like a mini lift. You can do any under car work with the car on the trailer saving some time.
Try and find one you can add a canopy to. Shade is a luxury at any event so any you cange is welcome. Not to mention protection from rain. Removable/replaceable side rails are also worth paying extra. Opening doors on a trailer can be tricky on trailers with tall rails. Anything over a foot tall should be removable.
Extras that are nice to have are build in tool box mounts. electric jacks for the hitch and 4 corner stabilizers. The last is one I would definately pay extra for if you plan on working on the car while it is on the trailer. These are 4 crank stule jacks that let you brace and level the trailer so it doesn't rock as you move around on it.
Brakes are going to dictated by how much you are towing. Most trailers will recommend a brakeing set for you so just follow their recommendations.
Customization of you trailer is entirely up to you. I see alot of solar battery chargers and power points for small tools. Small 1000w power inverters are also popular on off road trailers. Air tanks are starting to show up more and more. Things like the new co2 airtanks and small nitrogen bottle are droping in price and cam be used for tools or tires. Don't forget food. Tailgater style grills are always showing up on trailers.
Going custom and building your own will give you the most versitility. You you are good with a TIG then you are al set. TrailerPlans.com and other sell plans for $20 to $30 that are easy to follow with all the math already done so you don't overbuild. If you are a MIG guy/gal then modifying an existing trailer is best. The best mod for any trailer is replacing the thin fenders with step style ones. Sooner or later someone is going to try and use the fender as a step so you might as well build them right from the start. You can never have enough tie points so adding extra tabs is easy and can be done as a bolt or weld on.
If you are building or redoing a trailer by 2 wiring kits for the trailer and install both. If you can run the wire inside of the trailer tubes. Having a second set of wires alread run will make repairs easier. Skip fuses for the wiring in favor of breakers. Go for LED lights, they last longer and are more durable. While you are wiring don't forget to ad a circuit or 2 for lighting. Off road style light bars will make working at night easier.
Get good tires and a spare for your trailer. Flats happen and trailer tires are cheap so having a spare ready is a no brainer if you are going to be using the trailer alot. And don't forget a jack. The old style bumper ones are fine for this. If the trailers as built in jacks then you are set.
Ramps are the last piece of any trailer and are often forgotten. I prefer the full with ones over the rail style. These are easier to to load in the dark if you have to load the trialer by yourself. Avoid ramps that don't lock onto the trailer. The hook style ones have been know to stretch over time and slip. The ones that screw or pin to the trailer eliminate this problem.
Bottom line make a list of what you want to take with you to events and use that as you guide. Don't be afraid to start with a basic 18x8 trailer with no extras. You can add them as needed. Wood decks can be changed to metal, rails and boxes can be added, etc. I know several people that went this route and it is probly the most cost effective way to go.
| CTKAG | 09-27-2006 10:15 AM |
Agree on the enclosed trailer - it's like adding a garage bay on your house. I went with a 24' Haulmark, and quite honestly, it could have been bigger. After getting putting in cabinets and room for two sets of tires, gas cans, etc. there's not a whole lot of room left. Part of that is wasted space behind the car though. It's very easy to get the trailer to max out your towing capacity however - 2,500# trailer, 3,000# car, plus tools & spares - you probably need a vehicle with a 10,000# towing capacity.
The base Haulmark trailer is pretty inexpensive. About $5,000, for the 7,500# capacity trailer. The 10,000# trailer is a bit more.
Honestly, I haven't noticed much difference between the standard hitch setup and the weight distributing hitch I just switched to. That may have to do with the vehicle, I'm using a F250 diesel, hardly know the trailer is behind you.
-Keith-
The base Haulmark trailer is pretty inexpensive. About $5,000, for the 7,500# capacity trailer. The 10,000# trailer is a bit more.
Honestly, I haven't noticed much difference between the standard hitch setup and the weight distributing hitch I just switched to. That may have to do with the vehicle, I'm using a F250 diesel, hardly know the trailer is behind you.
-Keith-
| LathanM | 09-27-2006 10:26 AM |
Forgot one neat tip for sizing your trailer, map it out with tape. In a parking lot or long driveway park the car, tool boxes, tires, etc then us tape or chalk mark out the trailer. See if you have enough room to get to the car, will the doors open enough.
Half enclosed trailers are cheaper and give you extra lockable storage while still allowing you room to work on your car. Fully inclosed are normally too tight to work in.
Half enclosed trailers are cheaper and give you extra lockable storage while still allowing you room to work on your car. Fully inclosed are normally too tight to work in.
| haberkorn | 09-27-2006 10:42 AM |
I'd definitly go with an enclosed you can pick them up for fairly cheap if your patient. I picked up my 24ft enclosed with a finished interior for 4200 bucks locally, i haul my race car across the country for 7 months a year. Enclosed is the only way to go. Buy really really good locks also. I've got overkill for my set up I tow with a F350 powerstroke dullie, it works awesome.
| ITWRX4ME | 09-27-2006 12:43 PM |
Enclosed is definitely better. But you can make due with an open trailer if your car has windows that rollup or you tarp it.
I bought an old 26' Haulmark. After centering the car over the trailer axles, I'm left with about 9' in front and 3' in the rear. I don't have any cabinets or work benches yet. I just stack stuff in the front of it. Even with the car in the trailer, there's still plenty of room for a cot in front of it. I would have been just as happy with a 24'.
It sure came in handy at VIR when thunderstorm blew in suddenly at midnight. All I had to do was take the cover off my canopy, pull the car into the trailer and wait it out. The open trailer folks were probably snug in their motel rooms while tarps blew off their cars, rain poured into their open windows and their canopies disappeared into the night.
I bought an old 26' Haulmark. After centering the car over the trailer axles, I'm left with about 9' in front and 3' in the rear. I don't have any cabinets or work benches yet. I just stack stuff in the front of it. Even with the car in the trailer, there's still plenty of room for a cot in front of it. I would have been just as happy with a 24'.
It sure came in handy at VIR when thunderstorm blew in suddenly at midnight. All I had to do was take the cover off my canopy, pull the car into the trailer and wait it out. The open trailer folks were probably snug in their motel rooms while tarps blew off their cars, rain poured into their open windows and their canopies disappeared into the night.
| hotrod | 09-27-2006 05:36 PM |
Very good input guys. You have touched on several of the considerations I was pondering. The solid wood deck would be a nice alternate (dry flat) place to work if you were in a location where good places to work on the car were hard to find, and the advantages of a open deck trailer using it like an old garage station lift had already been pondered.
Have any of you used tilt bed trailers or a trailer that "kneels" to help you load a car that has minimal front ground clearance? I know several folks that have a major hassel getting a car on their trailers without tearing up front splitters and or dragging the rear of the car as it pulls up the ramps.
On the one end the fully equiped enclosed trailer would be nice, but the problem of getting all three parts (tow vehicle, trailer and race car) is a key issue for many (at least in the beginning). You need to fit out a race car, a trailer and a towing vehicle all at once. Funding all three in a short period of time would be a challenge for most folks. If a person is only going to do a long distance haul once or twice a year, thats a pretty big chunk of change to tie up for an occasional use.
I was thinking of using a U-haul box truck as a tow rig in the beginning, just rent one when you needed to tow. The local U-haul guy says they discourage round trip rentals like that (both in that round trip rentals are not supposed to leave the state and with rates). It would actually be cheaper to get a one way rental to you destination. Haul out there, then rent a one way back and move all your stuff from one truck to the other.
Has anyone tried this sort of operation? Is one of the other rental companies more favorable for that sort of thing.
The other option that came to mind would be an incremental process. Buy or build a plain jane trailer, make some improvements then sell it and step up to a bigger better trailer. This gets you on the road at an affordable price at the cost of taking several years to get to the level of equipment that is really desirable up front.
How well do auto hauler trailers retain value in your area if you buy smart in the beginning?
Larry
Have any of you used tilt bed trailers or a trailer that "kneels" to help you load a car that has minimal front ground clearance? I know several folks that have a major hassel getting a car on their trailers without tearing up front splitters and or dragging the rear of the car as it pulls up the ramps.
On the one end the fully equiped enclosed trailer would be nice, but the problem of getting all three parts (tow vehicle, trailer and race car) is a key issue for many (at least in the beginning). You need to fit out a race car, a trailer and a towing vehicle all at once. Funding all three in a short period of time would be a challenge for most folks. If a person is only going to do a long distance haul once or twice a year, thats a pretty big chunk of change to tie up for an occasional use.
I was thinking of using a U-haul box truck as a tow rig in the beginning, just rent one when you needed to tow. The local U-haul guy says they discourage round trip rentals like that (both in that round trip rentals are not supposed to leave the state and with rates). It would actually be cheaper to get a one way rental to you destination. Haul out there, then rent a one way back and move all your stuff from one truck to the other.
Has anyone tried this sort of operation? Is one of the other rental companies more favorable for that sort of thing.
The other option that came to mind would be an incremental process. Buy or build a plain jane trailer, make some improvements then sell it and step up to a bigger better trailer. This gets you on the road at an affordable price at the cost of taking several years to get to the level of equipment that is really desirable up front.
How well do auto hauler trailers retain value in your area if you buy smart in the beginning?
Larry
| WickedSTI | 09-27-2006 06:05 PM |
What abought a older drive on style truck like this [url]http://www.moreenergy.com/mg_towing.html[/url] My best freind has a 90 or so chevy 4 door 6.2 diesel got it for a deal.Lots or room inside has lock boxes all around.I use this trailer [url]http://www.bigtextrailers.com/spec/70dm.html[/url] is way over built a little heavy.The ramp trucks or dovetails are good buys. Brad
| CTKAG | 09-28-2006 09:53 AM |
It is a big chunk to bite off all at once. I bought the F250 4x4 Supercab diesel and the 24' enclosed trailer - then had an engine failure in the car at the next event! Talk about a financial burden.
Just remember - a trailer is worth 2 seconds a lap! :D
-Keith-
Just remember - a trailer is worth 2 seconds a lap! :D
-Keith-
| hotrod | 09-28-2006 06:47 PM |
[quote]It is a big chunk to bite off all at once.[/quote]
[quote]Just remember - a trailer is worth 2 seconds a lap![/quote]
Although made in jest your comment does have some merit in that a trailered car is fully setup for the track when you arrive (time is money) so you get more lap time or prep time in the pits instead of swapping wheels, and changing street alignment settings etc. You should be more rested when you arrive vs flogging to load tires in a street car, driving to the track and then swapping everything off.
You get more miles on your tires if you have been driving to the track on race tires (not a good idea but many do it out of necessity)
It would be interesting to hear what the lifecycle costs of trailering are for some of you.
Cost of trailer
liscensing the trailer
storage of trailer if you don't have room for parking it near the house.
Cost for the tow rig if you would not have otherwise bought a truck.
Real world per mile cost when towing long distances ( fuel etc.)
Did any of you get special insurance riders on the tow rig due to its "occasional use" instead of being a daily driver?
value of having the tow rig (ie small moves now use your own truck instead of borrowing or renting one)
(It wouldn't take too many long distance tows to ge a broken race car home to make a nice down payment on a trailer)
Have folks come up with creative ways to share costs for the tow rig?
Things like advertising of sponsors on the side of the enclosed trailer (lots of ad space there, and exposure), loaning the trailer to a local shop or friends for a small fee for them to avoid paying huge tow truck fees etc.
Larry
[quote]Just remember - a trailer is worth 2 seconds a lap![/quote]
Although made in jest your comment does have some merit in that a trailered car is fully setup for the track when you arrive (time is money) so you get more lap time or prep time in the pits instead of swapping wheels, and changing street alignment settings etc. You should be more rested when you arrive vs flogging to load tires in a street car, driving to the track and then swapping everything off.
You get more miles on your tires if you have been driving to the track on race tires (not a good idea but many do it out of necessity)
It would be interesting to hear what the lifecycle costs of trailering are for some of you.
Cost of trailer
liscensing the trailer
storage of trailer if you don't have room for parking it near the house.
Cost for the tow rig if you would not have otherwise bought a truck.
Real world per mile cost when towing long distances ( fuel etc.)
Did any of you get special insurance riders on the tow rig due to its "occasional use" instead of being a daily driver?
value of having the tow rig (ie small moves now use your own truck instead of borrowing or renting one)
(It wouldn't take too many long distance tows to ge a broken race car home to make a nice down payment on a trailer)
Have folks come up with creative ways to share costs for the tow rig?
Things like advertising of sponsors on the side of the enclosed trailer (lots of ad space there, and exposure), loaning the trailer to a local shop or friends for a small fee for them to avoid paying huge tow truck fees etc.
Larry
| akuhner | 09-28-2006 09:53 PM |
[QUOTE=hotrod;15423068]Have folks come up with creative ways to share costs for the tow rig?
Things like advertising of sponsors on the side of the enclosed trailer (lots of ad space there, and exposure), loaning the trailer to a local shop or friends for a small fee for them to avoid paying huge tow truck fees etc.[/QUOTE]
Don't loan out your trailer. Stick to something you can afford and keep it for yourself. If you loan it out, you'll get to the day before race day, have to pick it up at someone's back yard and find they busted a light and a bearing is going bad. I went through that last time I borrowed a trailer... :cool:
(edit - just realized you meant to share the cost of the tow rig, not just the trailer... oops!)
Things like advertising of sponsors on the side of the enclosed trailer (lots of ad space there, and exposure), loaning the trailer to a local shop or friends for a small fee for them to avoid paying huge tow truck fees etc.[/QUOTE]
Don't loan out your trailer. Stick to something you can afford and keep it for yourself. If you loan it out, you'll get to the day before race day, have to pick it up at someone's back yard and find they busted a light and a bearing is going bad. I went through that last time I borrowed a trailer... :cool:
(edit - just realized you meant to share the cost of the tow rig, not just the trailer... oops!)
| Jack | 09-28-2006 10:14 PM |
Some thoughts for you.
I used to tow with a Jeep Wrangler, of all vehicles. Not recommended, by the way. But it made me think light all around. With gas at $3 a year ago, I did a nearly straight up swap of the Jeep for a Yukon XL, but kept the trailer.
Mine is a custom built 14 foot CargoPro. Dual 3500 pound torsion axles with 4 electric brakes. I looked at all of the usual suspects for aluminums. I was underwhelmed with Trailex and Featherlite. Look at a CargoPro. You won't break a hitch point hitting something on the highway as told in another post above. Way heavy duty and everything is welded. Duck tail and slide in aluminum ramps. I use a manual boat winch in case the car doesn't run. I've found that at the track, you can get people to push your car onto your trailer faster than you can get to the front of the trailer to even touch a winch. This is open. I've thought about going enclosed and would go CargoPro again. They have 2 types of trailers for my needs. Both 16 foot and 81 inches wide. "cargo" trailer is just over $7500 new with D rings and front side door. All welded aluminum. Smaller frame with 2" ball. Same axles and brakes as my open. No duck tail. Same thing in car trailer has a larger frame and duck tail for about $8500. Both in the 2000 or less pounds. V in front is nice for stuff and aerodynamics.
I drag home parts cars for my racecar on occation and drag what's left to the junkyard, so have stuck with the open trailer for now. The enclosed (still thinking about it) would add a garage space for me, which I desperately need!
Wanna hear about my boat trailer? :D
jack
I used to tow with a Jeep Wrangler, of all vehicles. Not recommended, by the way. But it made me think light all around. With gas at $3 a year ago, I did a nearly straight up swap of the Jeep for a Yukon XL, but kept the trailer.
Mine is a custom built 14 foot CargoPro. Dual 3500 pound torsion axles with 4 electric brakes. I looked at all of the usual suspects for aluminums. I was underwhelmed with Trailex and Featherlite. Look at a CargoPro. You won't break a hitch point hitting something on the highway as told in another post above. Way heavy duty and everything is welded. Duck tail and slide in aluminum ramps. I use a manual boat winch in case the car doesn't run. I've found that at the track, you can get people to push your car onto your trailer faster than you can get to the front of the trailer to even touch a winch. This is open. I've thought about going enclosed and would go CargoPro again. They have 2 types of trailers for my needs. Both 16 foot and 81 inches wide. "cargo" trailer is just over $7500 new with D rings and front side door. All welded aluminum. Smaller frame with 2" ball. Same axles and brakes as my open. No duck tail. Same thing in car trailer has a larger frame and duck tail for about $8500. Both in the 2000 or less pounds. V in front is nice for stuff and aerodynamics.
I drag home parts cars for my racecar on occation and drag what's left to the junkyard, so have stuck with the open trailer for now. The enclosed (still thinking about it) would add a garage space for me, which I desperately need!
Wanna hear about my boat trailer? :D
jack
| hotrod | 09-29-2006 01:32 AM |
I already considered the idea of putting some sort of winch on the front of the trailer. Years ago I worked on a wrecker and having the ability to drag a broken car on the trailer is certainly desirable. The one time you will really need it of course no one else will be around.
Also one of the advantages of the full decked trailers vs the skid type trailer as it is much easier to get a car with a broken front suspension on a bare deck trailer than to get it to come up on the tire skids when it wants to slide sideways.
Even having some handy anchor points up on the front of the trailer to use with cable come-alongs would get the job done (although very slowly).
Thinking light and the negative issues of closed trailers, (ie too tight to work in, etc. ) Has anyone built or seen an open trailer design with removable side boards and hoops with a tarp over the top. You get the advantages of a removable top and sides for access, but have an enclosure for the worst of the weather. Obviously your pilfer resistance would be negligable.
Thinking of trailer theft while loaded, what measures do folks use to keep things from being stolen while on the road. I have on a couple of occasions, backed trailers up against solid objects so doors couldn't be opened even if locks were cut, and blocked the front of the tow vehicle with a companion car snugged up to its front so it could not so easily be hotwired and driven off.
I know some folks take measures like removing the ball hitch coupling off the front of a trailer if it needs to be parked unattended.
There are possible ways to lock the trailers wheels so it will not tow until the lock is released, and of course you could drop the money for a lowjack or gps system to know where the trailer is.
Larry
Also one of the advantages of the full decked trailers vs the skid type trailer as it is much easier to get a car with a broken front suspension on a bare deck trailer than to get it to come up on the tire skids when it wants to slide sideways.
Even having some handy anchor points up on the front of the trailer to use with cable come-alongs would get the job done (although very slowly).
Thinking light and the negative issues of closed trailers, (ie too tight to work in, etc. ) Has anyone built or seen an open trailer design with removable side boards and hoops with a tarp over the top. You get the advantages of a removable top and sides for access, but have an enclosure for the worst of the weather. Obviously your pilfer resistance would be negligable.
Thinking of trailer theft while loaded, what measures do folks use to keep things from being stolen while on the road. I have on a couple of occasions, backed trailers up against solid objects so doors couldn't be opened even if locks were cut, and blocked the front of the tow vehicle with a companion car snugged up to its front so it could not so easily be hotwired and driven off.
I know some folks take measures like removing the ball hitch coupling off the front of a trailer if it needs to be parked unattended.
There are possible ways to lock the trailers wheels so it will not tow until the lock is released, and of course you could drop the money for a lowjack or gps system to know where the trailer is.
Larry
| Impala SS AutoXer | 09-29-2006 07:54 AM |
I picked up an open trailer earlier this year, to haul both the Impala and WRX (plus future car projects). I got an 18 ft Sloan Kwik-Load ( [url]www.kwikload.com[/url] ) . Wasn't cheap, but a VERY nice trailer. The bed slides back and tilts, and you just drive onto it. Can load with one person easily. Lot nicer than messing with ramps, and REALLY nice for vehicles that are low (i.e. ground clearance issues).
Don't skimp on the trailer....period!
Also be sure your tow vehicle is sufficient. For enclosed, definitely go 3/4 or 1 ton. For open with a LIGHT vehicle, half-ton will "work" but be a bit strained if you drive in real mountains (i.e. western US). For my use and for future flexibility, I got a GMC Sierra 2500HD with the Duramax....it makes easy work of pretty much anything while towing :) . With my Impala on the trailer (car plus trailer weight = approx 6400 lbs), it'll still pull down 15 MPG while towing!
Don't skimp on the trailer....period!
Also be sure your tow vehicle is sufficient. For enclosed, definitely go 3/4 or 1 ton. For open with a LIGHT vehicle, half-ton will "work" but be a bit strained if you drive in real mountains (i.e. western US). For my use and for future flexibility, I got a GMC Sierra 2500HD with the Duramax....it makes easy work of pretty much anything while towing :) . With my Impala on the trailer (car plus trailer weight = approx 6400 lbs), it'll still pull down 15 MPG while towing!
| Jack | 09-29-2006 12:16 PM |
[QUOTE=hotrod;15427179]Has anyone built or seen an open trailer design with removable side boards and hoops with a tarp over the top. [/QUOTE]
[img]http://www.serpentexpress.com/images/se_adams_shrink.jpg[/img]
[url]http://www.serpentexpress.com/[/url]
They have steel and aluminum trailers with the covers as shown.
jack
[img]http://www.serpentexpress.com/images/se_adams_shrink.jpg[/img]
[url]http://www.serpentexpress.com/[/url]
They have steel and aluminum trailers with the covers as shown.
jack
| AlbaScoob | 09-29-2006 05:57 PM |
good thread
I thought this was interesting if you want to go the DIY route...
[url]http://www.trailerplans.com/[/url]
I thought this was interesting if you want to go the DIY route...
[url]http://www.trailerplans.com/[/url]
| hotrod | 09-29-2006 07:13 PM |
Thanks good find on the [url]http://www.trailerplans.com/[/url] site.
Has much of what I was looking for to price out a home built trailer.
Larry
Has much of what I was looking for to price out a home built trailer.
Larry
| Easy Rider | 09-30-2006 12:16 PM |
All the talk is of inclosed trailers - which are great if you are doing every type of motorsport EXCEPT rally.
I rally - and getting an enclosed trailer into some stage roads is impossible.
Not to mention loading the car from many weird angles some times.
SO - if you want to go rally - buy an open trailer.
My 2�
I rally - and getting an enclosed trailer into some stage roads is impossible.
Not to mention loading the car from many weird angles some times.
SO - if you want to go rally - buy an open trailer.
My 2�
| Vostok 7 | 09-30-2006 12:32 PM |
We bought a toter-home and 4 car trailer with lift that used to be owned by ESX. We use it to haul 3 cars for when we go to the Silver State Classic Challenge.
- Patrick
- Patrick
| rallynutdon | 10-01-2006 09:56 AM |
[QUOTE=Easy Rider;15442120]All the talk is of inclosed trailers - which are great if you are doing every type of motorsport EXCEPT rally.
I rally - and getting an enclosed trailer into some stage roads is impossible.
Not to mention loading the car from many weird angles some times.
SO - if you want to go rally - buy an open trailer.
My 2�[/QUOTE]
Not to forget, the enclosed trailer will shake itself apart after a couple of good trips down those dirt roads to pick up the disabled/wrecked car!
I rally - and getting an enclosed trailer into some stage roads is impossible.
Not to mention loading the car from many weird angles some times.
SO - if you want to go rally - buy an open trailer.
My 2�[/QUOTE]
Not to forget, the enclosed trailer will shake itself apart after a couple of good trips down those dirt roads to pick up the disabled/wrecked car!
| Paisan | 10-02-2006 03:30 PM |
I went with an open trailer for my trailer. It's been good for me so far. Mine was a utility trailer which is very well built, but after buying it and going to the track I've seen a lot of things I'd rather have...
1) Load floor height- You want to get one that is the lowest possible. Mine isn't all that low and sometimes we have issues loading. Sometimes we have to find a nice hump/hill and back it up to that to load it.
2) Floor- I have wood, which is nice cause it provides a great place to store gear above the flooded/muddy paddock and in the summer it's a nice deck to sit on between sessions. The wood has a bit better grip than metal and is cooler in the summer
3) Brakes- I have single axle electric brakes, next trailer I'd get dual axle brakes.
4) Bearing Buddies/lubable bearings- definitely worth having as blowing a bearing out in the middle of nowhere is a royal PITA
5) Lights- try to get lights that are built into the frame or are otherwise protected. I've seen my share of trailers with broken lights due to people backing into things. If the lights are in the frame no such issues.
6) Winch- I bought one at walmart for around $50 or so and built a mount for it on the front. It's a cheap one that doesn't pull very fast, it's portable though so you can use it for other things. Generally you only need this if your car gets wrecked or imobilized so I've not had to use it too often, hence the less expensive portable one
7) Spare tire- worth it's weight in Gold and in some states required.
8) Trailer AAA plan- AAA and almost all vehicle warranties do not cover towing of your trailer if your tow vehicle becomes disabled or if your trailer becomes disabled, the AAA doesn't cover that. I have Seatow for my boat and they offered a trailer towing service for all my trailers so I added it, well worth the money IMHO.
9) Tow Vehicle- My suggestion is to get a tow vehicle that will tow about 25% more than the max of your trailer. Also remember any gear you load into your vehicle is subtracted from your trailer towing (in general) So for instance I have a 2004 Nissan Armada-
Towing Capacity 9000lbs
3 Friends coming to track @ 150lbs eats -450lbs
Extra tires, tools, tent, coolers, jacks, etc -600lbs
New Towing capacity 7950lbs
You can never have an overkill for a tow vehicle. I used to tow my ~5000lb car trailer to events with my 2000 Isuzu Trooper w/6000lb towing capacity. While it towed it w/o issue, towing with the Armada now yields me better gas milage and nearly effortless towing, which helps to keep you more relaxed and focused on the track rather than getting there and home.
-mike
1) Load floor height- You want to get one that is the lowest possible. Mine isn't all that low and sometimes we have issues loading. Sometimes we have to find a nice hump/hill and back it up to that to load it.
2) Floor- I have wood, which is nice cause it provides a great place to store gear above the flooded/muddy paddock and in the summer it's a nice deck to sit on between sessions. The wood has a bit better grip than metal and is cooler in the summer
3) Brakes- I have single axle electric brakes, next trailer I'd get dual axle brakes.
4) Bearing Buddies/lubable bearings- definitely worth having as blowing a bearing out in the middle of nowhere is a royal PITA
5) Lights- try to get lights that are built into the frame or are otherwise protected. I've seen my share of trailers with broken lights due to people backing into things. If the lights are in the frame no such issues.
6) Winch- I bought one at walmart for around $50 or so and built a mount for it on the front. It's a cheap one that doesn't pull very fast, it's portable though so you can use it for other things. Generally you only need this if your car gets wrecked or imobilized so I've not had to use it too often, hence the less expensive portable one
7) Spare tire- worth it's weight in Gold and in some states required.
8) Trailer AAA plan- AAA and almost all vehicle warranties do not cover towing of your trailer if your tow vehicle becomes disabled or if your trailer becomes disabled, the AAA doesn't cover that. I have Seatow for my boat and they offered a trailer towing service for all my trailers so I added it, well worth the money IMHO.
9) Tow Vehicle- My suggestion is to get a tow vehicle that will tow about 25% more than the max of your trailer. Also remember any gear you load into your vehicle is subtracted from your trailer towing (in general) So for instance I have a 2004 Nissan Armada-
Towing Capacity 9000lbs
3 Friends coming to track @ 150lbs eats -450lbs
Extra tires, tools, tent, coolers, jacks, etc -600lbs
New Towing capacity 7950lbs
You can never have an overkill for a tow vehicle. I used to tow my ~5000lb car trailer to events with my 2000 Isuzu Trooper w/6000lb towing capacity. While it towed it w/o issue, towing with the Armada now yields me better gas milage and nearly effortless towing, which helps to keep you more relaxed and focused on the track rather than getting there and home.
-mike
| hotrod | 10-03-2006 09:42 AM |
[quote]1) Load floor height- You want to get one that is the lowest possible. Mine isn't all that low and sometimes we have issues loading. Sometimes we have to find a nice hump/hill and back it up to that to load it.[/quote]
That is why I was interested in tilt bed trailers or designs that can "kneel down" for loading.
What is the pull capacity and cable length you settled on for the portable winch?
Larry
That is why I was interested in tilt bed trailers or designs that can "kneel down" for loading.
What is the pull capacity and cable length you settled on for the portable winch?
Larry
| Jack | 10-03-2006 03:44 PM |
Larry,
To post my 3rd reply on this topic....I thought it would be timely.
I'm picking up a new CargoPro enclosed aluminum trailer tomorrow. 8.5 feet wide inside, so plenty of room to drive the car in and get out of the car in the trailer. I'm selling my old (if you can call 2 years old) CargoPro open aluminum custom 14 footer to a rally driver (sean...on this board). I have one other NESIC'er who also was ready and willing to come over with a check. I lost very little on the sale of the trailer. I'm still surprised how much aluminums hold their value.
So the new one is 18' long V nose 4 wheel, 2 torsion axle cargo trailer. Since my cars are light, a cargo trailer gives up 500-1000 pounds of capacity but saves a couple $k in price and several hundred dollars in cost. Mine weighs 2070 pounds.
I've had 4 winches on my trailers (3 of them). First one was a cheapo Harbor Freight portable 2000 pounder that I paid $49 for. I broke it trying to haul a Neon with frozen brakes onto it. (duh) I replaced it with an 8000 pound monster that could haul a car with no wheels whatsoever. Too heavy duty for what I needed. Sold it to CTKAG in this thread above. Put a boat manual winch on the open aluminum. Worked very well for what I need. In a pinch, I can get the car on the trailer and it locks so I use it as one of 2 points to hold the front of the car.
I'll either get another $49 harbor freight one for the new trailer if I decide to do electric or another boat manual one.
Why enclosed over open?
I need more storage space. I have enough "stuff" that should be inside and my garage is full. I figured out that even if we build another garage (2 car), I still won't fit everything. Add to that rainy days at the track and snowy days for snowmobiles and storage capacity......
Good luck in your search. I hope to keep this one for more than 2 years (longest I've held onto one so far)
jack
To post my 3rd reply on this topic....I thought it would be timely.
I'm picking up a new CargoPro enclosed aluminum trailer tomorrow. 8.5 feet wide inside, so plenty of room to drive the car in and get out of the car in the trailer. I'm selling my old (if you can call 2 years old) CargoPro open aluminum custom 14 footer to a rally driver (sean...on this board). I have one other NESIC'er who also was ready and willing to come over with a check. I lost very little on the sale of the trailer. I'm still surprised how much aluminums hold their value.
So the new one is 18' long V nose 4 wheel, 2 torsion axle cargo trailer. Since my cars are light, a cargo trailer gives up 500-1000 pounds of capacity but saves a couple $k in price and several hundred dollars in cost. Mine weighs 2070 pounds.
I've had 4 winches on my trailers (3 of them). First one was a cheapo Harbor Freight portable 2000 pounder that I paid $49 for. I broke it trying to haul a Neon with frozen brakes onto it. (duh) I replaced it with an 8000 pound monster that could haul a car with no wheels whatsoever. Too heavy duty for what I needed. Sold it to CTKAG in this thread above. Put a boat manual winch on the open aluminum. Worked very well for what I need. In a pinch, I can get the car on the trailer and it locks so I use it as one of 2 points to hold the front of the car.
I'll either get another $49 harbor freight one for the new trailer if I decide to do electric or another boat manual one.
Why enclosed over open?
I need more storage space. I have enough "stuff" that should be inside and my garage is full. I figured out that even if we build another garage (2 car), I still won't fit everything. Add to that rainy days at the track and snowy days for snowmobiles and storage capacity......
Good luck in your search. I hope to keep this one for more than 2 years (longest I've held onto one so far)
jack
| hotrod | 04-01-2007 11:51 PM |
Thought it was time for a bump to bring this discussion back to the top since folks are beginning to think about a new racing season.
Any new finds on good trailers or accessories, or hard learned lessons to share?
Larry
Any new finds on good trailers or accessories, or hard learned lessons to share?
Larry
| eastcoastbumps | 04-02-2007 12:32 AM |
Test your winch before picking up a rolling shell. I drove 6 hours to pick up my '99 RS and spent another 3 hours loading it. I had to chock the trailer wheels and pull the car up onto the trailer with my van using all four tie down straps. It was a real pita. And too top it off, the seller had removed the front axles and hub fell apart as we were loading it. I wasn't a happy camper.
| Fitz | 04-02-2007 06:24 AM |
I picked up a used open trailer from a friend of mine. It was built by the Independent Trailer Company of Chicago and rated for 12,000 pounds although in my opinion the design is slightly minimal at best. It's a wood bottom trailer with dual eectric axle brakes. I installed a new deck for $200 and added all new lights for $40. Frankly, it's seen more time hauling other "stuff" than the race car includng my neighbors entire cinder block chimney which we tore down, countless couches, the interior of my first floor when I was gutting paneling/sheetrock, etc... I can't help but wonder if I would have subjected a high dollar aluminum enclosed trailer to such abuse. Don't kid yourself though, I'll be the first one to rub up against jackffr's new trailer when I see it on Monday....
Oh.. and towing. I acquired a 1996 E350 Ambulance with a 7.3 liter turbo diesel. Shore line. Air compressor. Plenty of cabinetry. Block warmer, cruise control, etc... great tow rig.
Fitz
Oh.. and towing. I acquired a 1996 E350 Ambulance with a 7.3 liter turbo diesel. Shore line. Air compressor. Plenty of cabinetry. Block warmer, cruise control, etc... great tow rig.
Fitz
| hotrod | 04-02-2007 07:19 AM |
I agree some of the used industrial trucks and vans have great potential as tow vehicles.
Larry
Larry
| 12mphspool | 04-02-2007 12:59 PM |
you can see mine in the background [URL="www.myspace.com/nabiljamali"]here[/URL] , its got a partial kitchen, and fold down bunks inside. makes it really nice for long events
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