| satrya | 08-09-2004 12:12 PM |
WRC-look headlights, yea or nay? (comparison pics)
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[B][U]***Pictures are no longer available***[/U][/B]
There have been many posts mentioning how the wrc-look headlights are bad, how poor the surface finish quality is, and that no matter what you do, the lights still blind oncoming traffic.
I had gotten intrigued enough to buy a pair and see for myself. As I hope to show in the next few posts, imho, [B][U]they are not suitable for public road use, but is probably a better lighting for off-road/private use, and potentially better than the oems for public, on-road use when the low beams and turn signals are modified.[/U][/B]
To start off, below is a picture comparing the oem headlight (with a slight eyelid that doesn't affect this comparison imho) vs. the wrc-look headlights commonly found in eBay. The picture shows 4 different situations: (1) city/parking lights, (2) turn signal/ hazard lights, (3) low beams, and (4) high beams. I should note that the wiring harness is modified such that only 1 unit per side lights up in high beam. There have been posts here mentioning the fact that unmodified, the wrc-look headlights are wired such that 2 lights light up in high beam mode, resulting in 2 half-brightness units.
From the picture below, one can argue that from head-on, qualitatively:
(1) The 5W city/parking lights are about the same brightness
(2) The 21W turn/hazard lights of the oem is superior (probably thanks to the reflector design)
(3) The low & high beams of the wrc-look is more concentrated & "bright". (brighter is not always better imho, because the beam pattern matters as much)
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrclights/wrc100banbara.jpg[/IMG]
There have been many posts mentioning how the wrc-look headlights are bad, how poor the surface finish quality is, and that no matter what you do, the lights still blind oncoming traffic.
I had gotten intrigued enough to buy a pair and see for myself. As I hope to show in the next few posts, imho, [B][U]they are not suitable for public road use, but is probably a better lighting for off-road/private use, and potentially better than the oems for public, on-road use when the low beams and turn signals are modified.[/U][/B]
To start off, below is a picture comparing the oem headlight (with a slight eyelid that doesn't affect this comparison imho) vs. the wrc-look headlights commonly found in eBay. The picture shows 4 different situations: (1) city/parking lights, (2) turn signal/ hazard lights, (3) low beams, and (4) high beams. I should note that the wiring harness is modified such that only 1 unit per side lights up in high beam. There have been posts here mentioning the fact that unmodified, the wrc-look headlights are wired such that 2 lights light up in high beam mode, resulting in 2 half-brightness units.
From the picture below, one can argue that from head-on, qualitatively:
(1) The 5W city/parking lights are about the same brightness
(2) The 21W turn/hazard lights of the oem is superior (probably thanks to the reflector design)
(3) The low & high beams of the wrc-look is more concentrated & "bright". (brighter is not always better imho, because the beam pattern matters as much)
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrclights/wrc100banbara.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 08-09-2004 12:21 PM |
projected beam pattern
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The picture below compares the two units in the previous post when projected to a wall about 8 feet away. Ideally, a distance of 25 feet would've been better since one method of aligning the low, high, and fogs use 25 feet as a reference, but it wasn't possible in this case. The pictures were taken from inside the car, and comparisons should only be made between the left-vs-right, not up-down.
The observations in the previous post is confirmed somewhat with this picture. Note that the turn/hazard light of the oem is much more concentrated to oncoming traffic, and is spread more horizontally. The wrc-looks' on the other hand, wastes some upwards where it is irrelevant, and downwards where it could reach oncoming traffic through road surface glare.
The low & high beams of the wrc-look is more akin to the spot auxiliary driving lamps. For off-road use, this is probably not a big issue. Commpared to the oem, it is most likely not DOT compliant. Also note that the oem's low & high is a superposition of a strong beam with a horizontal level, and a weaker beam tilted counterclockwise.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrclights/wrc101.jpg[/IMG]
The observations in the previous post is confirmed somewhat with this picture. Note that the turn/hazard light of the oem is much more concentrated to oncoming traffic, and is spread more horizontally. The wrc-looks' on the other hand, wastes some upwards where it is irrelevant, and downwards where it could reach oncoming traffic through road surface glare.
The low & high beams of the wrc-look is more akin to the spot auxiliary driving lamps. For off-road use, this is probably not a big issue. Commpared to the oem, it is most likely not DOT compliant. Also note that the oem's low & high is a superposition of a strong beam with a horizontal level, and a weaker beam tilted counterclockwise.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrclights/wrc101.jpg[/IMG]
| Mulder | 08-09-2004 12:25 PM |
[quote]There have been posts here mentioning the fact that unmodified, the wrc-look headlights are wired such that 2 lights light up in high beam mode, resulting in 2 half-brightness units. [/quote]
This is not done by design, they are just plain wired wrong. The common is not on the center pin of the headlight connector where it belongs. Once wired properly the lows and highs light up separately with full brightness, and the lows do not stay on with the highs.
It's cool to see that you're playing with these knowing exactly what they are and aren't.
This is not done by design, they are just plain wired wrong. The common is not on the center pin of the headlight connector where it belongs. Once wired properly the lows and highs light up separately with full brightness, and the lows do not stay on with the highs.
It's cool to see that you're playing with these knowing exactly what they are and aren't.
| satrya | 08-09-2004 12:29 PM |
Simple mod experiments
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Looking at the reflector design, it is clear that the identical low & high beams of the wrc-look headlights allow a lot of light emitted upwards beyond the horizontal level required by the DOT standards (and probably the ECE as well). The following are 2 versions of a simple mod that were done to see whether the safety aspect can be improved without a replacement of the low beam module with a pair of good Hella 90mm low beam projectors.
The mods involve cutting a shield from a thin aluminum sheet that covers the bulb in certain areas such that minimal light is transmitted above the horizontal line.
The first pattern is shown in the picture below. The teal circle around the low beam as well as the dark blue, red, and green lines serve as a reference of the shape of the cover relative to the cylindrical side of the bulb. The illustration on top of the picture shows the shape of the first cover. The inset shows how the cover looks, colored blue for easy identification. The blue-colored cover can be seen installed on the low beams.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrclights/wrc102.jpg[/IMG]
A second larger pattern is shown in the picture below. Instead of the curved shield, a simple rectangle that covers more area is chosen. An inset in the picture below shows how the top reflectors now become unused due to the larger shield. Note the asymmetry to mimic a DOT-compliant pattern.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrclights/wrc103.jpg[/IMG]
The mods involve cutting a shield from a thin aluminum sheet that covers the bulb in certain areas such that minimal light is transmitted above the horizontal line.
The first pattern is shown in the picture below. The teal circle around the low beam as well as the dark blue, red, and green lines serve as a reference of the shape of the cover relative to the cylindrical side of the bulb. The illustration on top of the picture shows the shape of the first cover. The inset shows how the cover looks, colored blue for easy identification. The blue-colored cover can be seen installed on the low beams.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrclights/wrc102.jpg[/IMG]
A second larger pattern is shown in the picture below. Instead of the curved shield, a simple rectangle that covers more area is chosen. An inset in the picture below shows how the top reflectors now become unused due to the larger shield. Note the asymmetry to mimic a DOT-compliant pattern.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrclights/wrc103.jpg[/IMG]
| Samirr76 | 08-09-2004 12:33 PM |
The light pattern of the WRC fakes is terrible! :eek:
| satrya | 08-09-2004 12:37 PM |
Shield comparison
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The picture below shows a comparison between the different shields vs no shielding. The wrc-look headlight is still installed on the driver's side (left hand side), and the oem is on the passenger side. Again, the pictures cannot be directly compared in a vertical manner. Rather, comparison should be made to the oem next to it, since the conditions when the pictures are taken may have been different.
The pictures below show a difference (that is a lot easier to see in person unfortunately) where as the shielding covers more of the upper surface of the bulb, there is less amount of light emitted upwards. One problem with this solution though, is that the focus of the beam is still angled higher than the oems, even when the low beam unit is adjusted to aim as low to the ground as possible.
The fact that shielding the upper portion of the bulb to minimize glare above the horizontal line is unfortunately due to the fact that the bulbs are exposed. From the point of view of the reflector, this significantly reduces the overall light output to the useful areas as well.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrclights/wrc104.jpg[/IMG]
The pictures below show a difference (that is a lot easier to see in person unfortunately) where as the shielding covers more of the upper surface of the bulb, there is less amount of light emitted upwards. One problem with this solution though, is that the focus of the beam is still angled higher than the oems, even when the low beam unit is adjusted to aim as low to the ground as possible.
The fact that shielding the upper portion of the bulb to minimize glare above the horizontal line is unfortunately due to the fact that the bulbs are exposed. From the point of view of the reflector, this significantly reduces the overall light output to the useful areas as well.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrclights/wrc104.jpg[/IMG]
| BrysImpreza | 08-09-2004 12:38 PM |
[QUOTE=Mulder]This is not done by design, they are just plain wired wrong. The common is not on the center pin of the headlight connector where it belongs. Once wired properly the lows and highs light up separately with full brightness, and the lows do not stay on with the highs.
QUOTE]
I had that exact problem, I ended up rewiring an aftermarket system controlled by the factory lighting switches.
The way these lights come wired is an electricians worst nightmare. They use a common ground and interrupt the positive signal, which actually sends a charge back to the switch and will in time mess up your controls.
These lights are definitely NOT plug and play if you want them to work properly. You need to know how to proper wire these using a single pole double throw relay.
As for adjusting them, thats pretty tough, I've adjusted them all the way down and over and they still shine like HIDs without a projector.
QUOTE]
I had that exact problem, I ended up rewiring an aftermarket system controlled by the factory lighting switches.
The way these lights come wired is an electricians worst nightmare. They use a common ground and interrupt the positive signal, which actually sends a charge back to the switch and will in time mess up your controls.
These lights are definitely NOT plug and play if you want them to work properly. You need to know how to proper wire these using a single pole double throw relay.
As for adjusting them, thats pretty tough, I've adjusted them all the way down and over and they still shine like HIDs without a projector.
| rukkie | 08-09-2004 12:41 PM |
Aren't those the ebay headlights that people kept warning others to stay away from?
| satrya | 08-09-2004 12:42 PM |
Final nit-pick
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And a final nit-pick to the wrc-look headlights, not for the sake of criticism, but so that potential buyers know what to expect (and possibly come up with a way to compensate/correct them):
(1) Surface quality of the black abs plastic is such that some fine streaks may be visible (dark blue circle in the picture below)
(2) The ABS plastic used is very thin (light blue). Iirc, it is no thicker than 2mm, maybe even less in some areas. --> be careful when baking this headlight.
(3) The level adjuster is not enough to settle the low & high beams to a good horizontal position (at least in the pair I tested) (green circle)
(4) The wiring of the low & highs are not correct in most if not all of the cases (yellow circle)
(5) The turn/city/parking/hazard signal bulb is partially visible, exposing the unsightly socket. The lens cover has an alternating pattern of clear and frosted --> not my cup of tea. The lens cover is poorly adhered to the ABS plastic. While it is secure enough, you can see the adhesive when inspected closely.
Overall, this is not a plug-and-play kind of replacement. It makes for a good DIY platform imho.
(1) Surface quality of the black abs plastic is such that some fine streaks may be visible (dark blue circle in the picture below)
(2) The ABS plastic used is very thin (light blue). Iirc, it is no thicker than 2mm, maybe even less in some areas. --> be careful when baking this headlight.
(3) The level adjuster is not enough to settle the low & high beams to a good horizontal position (at least in the pair I tested) (green circle)
(4) The wiring of the low & highs are not correct in most if not all of the cases (yellow circle)
(5) The turn/city/parking/hazard signal bulb is partially visible, exposing the unsightly socket. The lens cover has an alternating pattern of clear and frosted --> not my cup of tea. The lens cover is poorly adhered to the ABS plastic. While it is secure enough, you can see the adhesive when inspected closely.
Overall, this is not a plug-and-play kind of replacement. It makes for a good DIY platform imho.
| satrya | 08-09-2004 12:44 PM |
[QUOTE=Mulder]This is not done by design, they are just plain wired wrong. [/QUOTE]
Thanks. I'm aware of this thanks to prior posts, including your information to those asking for wiring info on these units.
One note though, is that I've lurked around eBay a while before deciding to test a pair, and I noticed different vendors selling them with different connector & wire colors, so it is possible that not all of them are wired incorrectly.
Thanks. I'm aware of this thanks to prior posts, including your information to those asking for wiring info on these units.
One note though, is that I've lurked around eBay a while before deciding to test a pair, and I noticed different vendors selling them with different connector & wire colors, so it is possible that not all of them are wired incorrectly.
| satrya | 08-09-2004 12:46 PM |
[QUOTE=Samirr76]The light pattern of the WRC fakes is terrible! :eek:[/QUOTE]
For north american and european public road use, I would agree. :)
But the Hella 90mm low beam projectors could fit nicely with some DIY. Those can be set for RHD or LHD, and has a very nice beam pattern.
For north american and european public road use, I would agree. :)
But the Hella 90mm low beam projectors could fit nicely with some DIY. Those can be set for RHD or LHD, and has a very nice beam pattern.
| satrya | 08-09-2004 12:48 PM |
[QUOTE=BrysImpreza]The way these lights come wired is an electricians worst nightmare.
...
These lights are definitely NOT plug and play if you want them to work properly.
...As for adjusting them, thats pretty tough, I've adjusted them all the way down and over and they still shine like HIDs without a projector.[/QUOTE]
Agree on all 3 counts.
...
These lights are definitely NOT plug and play if you want them to work properly.
...As for adjusting them, thats pretty tough, I've adjusted them all the way down and over and they still shine like HIDs without a projector.[/QUOTE]
Agree on all 3 counts.
| satrya | 08-09-2004 12:52 PM |
[QUOTE=rukkie]Aren't those the ebay headlights that people kept warning others to stay away from?[/QUOTE]
Yes. Regardless, people still buy them. And in one of the recent Sport Compact Car magazine, there was an article covering Rim of The World and Oregon Trail rallies, and there was at least one entrant that sported the wrc-replica. That alone could encourage people from buying these "dual projector" lights (even though they are spot-beam pattern reflectors). That is why I decided to post [B][U]with pictures[/U][/B] so they know what to expect.
My position is that it is not a piece of junk. It's just not a plug-and-play & DOT compliant replacement. While it has a [U][B]lot[/B][/U] of shortcomings, it's a good starting point for a DIY.
Yes. Regardless, people still buy them. And in one of the recent Sport Compact Car magazine, there was an article covering Rim of The World and Oregon Trail rallies, and there was at least one entrant that sported the wrc-replica. That alone could encourage people from buying these "dual projector" lights (even though they are spot-beam pattern reflectors). That is why I decided to post [B][U]with pictures[/U][/B] so they know what to expect.
My position is that it is not a piece of junk. It's just not a plug-and-play & DOT compliant replacement. While it has a [U][B]lot[/B][/U] of shortcomings, it's a good starting point for a DIY.
| Mulder | 08-09-2004 01:14 PM |
Well in my estimation, for street use in their unmodified form (even when wired correctly) I would consider them junk. This is the way that 99% of people who purchase them are going to use them, as their main consideration in making the purchase is the cheap price compared to a proper set of projectors such as Morettes, EDMs, UKs etc.
However I can see the potential of using them as the basis of a well-thought-out DIY headlight project using quality materials and the proper modifications. Of course at the conclusion of said project, there will have been no savings in cost and certainly more labor involved than with a set of premade lights.
I give you a lot of credit for the time and effort that went into what you have posted here. Next time someone asks about these lights we will have a good thread to point them to.
However I can see the potential of using them as the basis of a well-thought-out DIY headlight project using quality materials and the proper modifications. Of course at the conclusion of said project, there will have been no savings in cost and certainly more labor involved than with a set of premade lights.
I give you a lot of credit for the time and effort that went into what you have posted here. Next time someone asks about these lights we will have a good thread to point them to.
| rukkie | 08-09-2004 02:04 PM |
I think they'd look a lot better if you paint over the plastic housing, either paint it flat black, use a net and overspray a CF pattern, or paint match it to sonic yellow. :) It should come up very nicely and well worth the extra time... consider how much time you already invested into these lights, you might as well take it to the next level =)
| Hank3 | 08-09-2004 02:54 PM |
Good job with the write-up...
| satrya | 08-09-2004 04:51 PM |
[QUOTE=Mulder]Well in my estimation, for street use in their unmodified form (even when wired correctly) ...., as their main consideration in making the purchase is the cheap price compared to a proper set of projectors such as Morettes, EDMs, UKs etc. [/QUOTE]
In that sense, I agree completely. I prefer to look at it as a baseline/starting point for a DIY. It is my hope that the observations I made be useful to potential buyers of such wrc-look headlights, knowing better what to expect. [B]I do hope that no one uses these units for public road use [U]as-is[/U].[/B]
[QUOTE]Of course at the conclusion of said project, there will have been no savings in cost and certainly more labor involved than with a set of premade lights.[/QUOTE]
To be honest, I'm 50-50 now between thinking it is a worthwile DIY and not. Costwise, imho it is possible to get: (1) 1 pair of wrc-look headlights, (2) 1 pair of Hella 90 mm low beam projectors, (3) headlight lens protection for the low beam & high beam, & (4) 1 pair of Hella turn signal, for less than US$300. Afaik, a new Morette would cost more than US$400. The others aren't even close. The cost of labor will be tremendous no doubt, but if it is a DIY/for fun kind of project, you may just end up with a challenging DIY and unique but functional headlights.
[QUOTE]I give you a lot of credit for the time and effort that went into what you have posted here. Next time someone asks about these lights we will have a good thread to point them to.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for your feedback.
In that sense, I agree completely. I prefer to look at it as a baseline/starting point for a DIY. It is my hope that the observations I made be useful to potential buyers of such wrc-look headlights, knowing better what to expect. [B]I do hope that no one uses these units for public road use [U]as-is[/U].[/B]
[QUOTE]Of course at the conclusion of said project, there will have been no savings in cost and certainly more labor involved than with a set of premade lights.[/QUOTE]
To be honest, I'm 50-50 now between thinking it is a worthwile DIY and not. Costwise, imho it is possible to get: (1) 1 pair of wrc-look headlights, (2) 1 pair of Hella 90 mm low beam projectors, (3) headlight lens protection for the low beam & high beam, & (4) 1 pair of Hella turn signal, for less than US$300. Afaik, a new Morette would cost more than US$400. The others aren't even close. The cost of labor will be tremendous no doubt, but if it is a DIY/for fun kind of project, you may just end up with a challenging DIY and unique but functional headlights.
[QUOTE]I give you a lot of credit for the time and effort that went into what you have posted here. Next time someone asks about these lights we will have a good thread to point them to.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for your feedback.
| satrya | 08-09-2004 04:56 PM |
[QUOTE=Hank3]Good job with the write-up...[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=rukkie]I think they'd look a lot better if you paint over the plastic housing, either paint it flat black, use a net and overspray a CF pattern, or paint match it to sonic yellow. :) It should come up very nicely and well worth the extra time... consider how much time you already invested into these lights, you might as well take it to the next level =)[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the feedback.
Regarding painting it, I actually am not using these wrc-look headlights, not at this condition at least. I bought them more because I was curious and because there was a pair with a reasonable price (for testing). Until I can modify them to be superior to the oem in terms of functionality and safety, the oem stays. :)
Btw, my GD is banana yellow, not the newer mustard yellow.
[QUOTE=rukkie]I think they'd look a lot better if you paint over the plastic housing, either paint it flat black, use a net and overspray a CF pattern, or paint match it to sonic yellow. :) It should come up very nicely and well worth the extra time... consider how much time you already invested into these lights, you might as well take it to the next level =)[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the feedback.
Regarding painting it, I actually am not using these wrc-look headlights, not at this condition at least. I bought them more because I was curious and because there was a pair with a reasonable price (for testing). Until I can modify them to be superior to the oem in terms of functionality and safety, the oem stays. :)
Btw, my GD is banana yellow, not the newer mustard yellow.
| azimiut | 08-09-2004 08:56 PM |
this what i did to my WRC look headlights.....
[IMG]http://www.modmycar.net/images/headlight21.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.modmycar.net/images/scoobynow.jpg[/IMG]
my next step will be to put new bulb/projectors, like the 90mm hella's and add some structure to the housings.
[IMG]http://www.modmycar.net/images/headlight21.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.modmycar.net/images/scoobynow.jpg[/IMG]
my next step will be to put new bulb/projectors, like the 90mm hella's and add some structure to the housings.
| tux | 09-08-2004 10:28 AM |
how did you get the striped lens from where the turn signal is off?
| White Knight | 09-08-2004 02:36 PM |
Why not just spend the money on something that look right.
[IMG]http://www.cc-b.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/GDA/wrc-headlights.jpg[/IMG]
I know that you don't want to spend alot on lights but these are worth it.
[url]http://www.cc-b.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=OR00510&Category_Code=SI02[/url]
-Mark
[IMG]http://www.cc-b.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/GDA/wrc-headlights.jpg[/IMG]
I know that you don't want to spend alot on lights but these are worth it.
[url]http://www.cc-b.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=OR00510&Category_Code=SI02[/url]
-Mark
| azimiut | 09-08-2004 04:14 PM |
i got them off with a screwdriver from the inside. I took out the signal bulb and pushed them out, one came out in one piece the other shattered.
| deebo | 09-08-2004 09:55 PM |
those lights are so nice ... but 825 dollars? im thinking about buying those 90mm hellas and working something out.. they are about 50-60 bucks a piece for low beams.. thats all id really need considering the high beams arent used with oncoming traffic
| azimiut | 09-09-2004 01:38 AM |
[IMG]http://www.cc-b.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/GDA/wrc-headlights.jpg[/IMG]
I dont really like these lights, they may be better quality, but the stick out a ways. they are not all that flush with the lines of the car.
I dont really like these lights, they may be better quality, but the stick out a ways. they are not all that flush with the lines of the car.
| deebo | 09-09-2004 01:41 AM |
does anyone know what turn signals those are in the pic two posts or so up? id like to get something like that so i can get rid of the frosted plastic on the wrc's ....
also the webpage says to get the H9 Connector with terminals and seals but would i need that ? the ghetto wrc's came with a harness couldnt i just just put terminals on the ends of that and wire it to the h9 bulb?
i just found out that Susquehanna MotorSports is 30 mins away from me ....
btw are the lows supposed to be on the inside or does it not matter?
also the webpage says to get the H9 Connector with terminals and seals but would i need that ? the ghetto wrc's came with a harness couldnt i just just put terminals on the ends of that and wire it to the h9 bulb?
i just found out that Susquehanna MotorSports is 30 mins away from me ....
btw are the lows supposed to be on the inside or does it not matter?
| JIN | 09-09-2004 06:49 AM |
Yeah, I kind of hate those lights ... maybe just because its slanted ...
Jin
Jin
| White Knight | 09-09-2004 07:57 AM |
Well if you look here [url]http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291575167[/url] I think that they look great.
Yeah the low beam is on the inside.
-Mark
Yeah the low beam is on the inside.
-Mark
| satrya | 09-09-2004 10:05 AM |
[QUOTE=deebo]does anyone know what turn signals those are in the pic two posts or so up? id like to get something like that so i can get rid of the frosted plastic on the wrc's ....[/QUOTE]
The turn signal on the oricari looks like a Hella part. I recall seeing a Hella turn signal that looks like that in [url]www.nopionline.com[/url]
The frosted plastic on the wrc replica can be removed using the bake method. If you do so, bear in mind that the abs plastic used for the wrc replica is [B][U]much thinner[/U][/B] than the oem's. The plastic can easily [B]melt[/B] if you're not careful.
[QUOTE]also the webpage says to get the H9 Connector with terminals and seals but would i need that ? the ghetto wrc's came with a harness couldnt i just just put terminals on the ends of that and wire it to the h9 bulb?[/QUOTE]
I'm assuming this is regarding the Hella 90mm projector beams. Afaik, the connectors are different.
[QUOTE]btw are the lows supposed to be on the inside or does it not matter?[/QUOTE]
I'm not aware of such requirements, at least according to the California Vehicle Code; other regions may have something more specific.
The turn signal on the oricari looks like a Hella part. I recall seeing a Hella turn signal that looks like that in [url]www.nopionline.com[/url]
The frosted plastic on the wrc replica can be removed using the bake method. If you do so, bear in mind that the abs plastic used for the wrc replica is [B][U]much thinner[/U][/B] than the oem's. The plastic can easily [B]melt[/B] if you're not careful.
[QUOTE]also the webpage says to get the H9 Connector with terminals and seals but would i need that ? the ghetto wrc's came with a harness couldnt i just just put terminals on the ends of that and wire it to the h9 bulb?[/QUOTE]
I'm assuming this is regarding the Hella 90mm projector beams. Afaik, the connectors are different.
[QUOTE]btw are the lows supposed to be on the inside or does it not matter?[/QUOTE]
I'm not aware of such requirements, at least according to the California Vehicle Code; other regions may have something more specific.
| deebo | 09-09-2004 03:56 PM |
thanks for the responses .. i appreciate it
| Go_Rex_Go | 08-06-2006 11:55 AM |
where would u find these headlights?
[img]http://www.cc-b.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/GDA/wrc-headlights.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.cc-b.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/GDA/wrc-headlights.jpg[/img]
| Vince126 | 08-06-2006 05:41 PM |
wow the beam pattern is horrible :S retrofit a bi-xenon projector into your stock headlights, it only takes a couple of hours, and it probably costs just as much as the WRC lookalikes, but the end result will be 10X Better.
| Maniac | 01-31-2007 11:59 AM |
How do you mean?...
[QUOTE=Vince126;14793534]...retrofit a bi-xenon projector into your stock headlights, it only takes a couple of hours, and it probably costs just as much as the WRC lookalikes....[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=Vince126;14793534]...retrofit a bi-xenon projector into your stock headlights, it only takes a couple of hours, and it probably costs just as much as the WRC lookalikes....[/QUOTE]
| abbrogate15 | 01-31-2007 06:35 PM |
WRC lights
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�
I just got the WRC look lights for Christmas and had them installed, and there were definitely problems. When you turn the headlights on low beam, the lights work properly but it causes the bright light indicator inside to turn on. As for the brights, it tries to turn on both lights on each side and pretty obviously just doesn't get enough power.
The last thing I want is to screw up the car...any suggestions?
The last thing I want is to screw up the car...any suggestions?
| RallyeXpress | 01-31-2007 07:55 PM |
Wrc
�
�
Here are my real wrc lights from Prodrive U.K.
They work great. Alot brighter than stock. I wired them so I can turn on low and hi at the same time or one or the other. My fogs stay on all the time with hi or low or with both on.
RallyeX
[img]http://images20.fotki.com/v374/photos/1/12634/3069379/DSC02575-vi.jpg[/img]
[img]http://images14.fotki.com/v379/photos/1/12634/3069379/DSC02596-vi.jpg[/img]
[img]http://images14.fotki.com/v378/photos/1/12634/3069379/DSC_0107-vi.jpg[/img]
They work great. Alot brighter than stock. I wired them so I can turn on low and hi at the same time or one or the other. My fogs stay on all the time with hi or low or with both on.
RallyeX
[img]http://images20.fotki.com/v374/photos/1/12634/3069379/DSC02575-vi.jpg[/img]
[img]http://images14.fotki.com/v379/photos/1/12634/3069379/DSC02596-vi.jpg[/img]
[img]http://images14.fotki.com/v378/photos/1/12634/3069379/DSC_0107-vi.jpg[/img]
| Letx | 01-31-2007 08:16 PM |
NICE. whoa post #1 made me dizzy
| Handsdown | 01-31-2007 08:49 PM |
[QUOTE=Maniac;16878193]How do you mean?...[/QUOTE]
he means that if you get a projector unit from a bixenon equipped car like an acura TL or FX45 or Mercedes E55, you can put it behind the glass of these lights.
i have a set of junkers, i'm using their highbeam for my retrofit. these would be extremely hard to retrofit anything into without making an entirely new backing for it and figuring out a way to shield the front of the projector from debris.
he means that if you get a projector unit from a bixenon equipped car like an acura TL or FX45 or Mercedes E55, you can put it behind the glass of these lights.
i have a set of junkers, i'm using their highbeam for my retrofit. these would be extremely hard to retrofit anything into without making an entirely new backing for it and figuring out a way to shield the front of the projector from debris.
| Maniac | 01-31-2007 09:43 PM |
[QUOTE=abbrogate15;16884270]I just got the WRC look lights for Christmas and had them installed, and there were definitely problems. When you turn the headlights on low beam, the lights work properly but it causes the bright light indicator inside to turn on. As for the brights, it tries to turn on both lights on each side and pretty obviously just doesn't get enough power.
The last thing I want is to screw up the car...any suggestions?[/QUOTE]
Its very simple, polarity is wrong! The 02-03 WRX electrical system does not use standard harness connector pinouts. The return is not a stable return and the low/high beam wiring is wrong on the WRC replica lights for the WRX application. I have experienced the same exact problem with HID retrofit.
Let me guess, if you turn your fogs off and on quickly with the low beams on they some times do not light up...
PM me and I'll tell you how to fix it...
Lev.
The last thing I want is to screw up the car...any suggestions?[/QUOTE]
Its very simple, polarity is wrong! The 02-03 WRX electrical system does not use standard harness connector pinouts. The return is not a stable return and the low/high beam wiring is wrong on the WRC replica lights for the WRX application. I have experienced the same exact problem with HID retrofit.
Let me guess, if you turn your fogs off and on quickly with the low beams on they some times do not light up...
PM me and I'll tell you how to fix it...
Lev.
| garinhash | 05-24-2007 09:02 PM |
[quote=abbrogate15;16884270]I just got the WRC look lights for Christmas and had them installed, and there were definitely problems. When you turn the headlights on low beam, the lights work properly but it causes the bright light indicator inside to turn on. As for the brights, it tries to turn on both lights on each side and pretty obviously just doesn't get enough power.
The last thing I want is to screw up the car...any suggestions?[/quote]
i am having the same problem i tried switching the pins around but no luck. can someone let me know what pin is supposed to go where?
The last thing I want is to screw up the car...any suggestions?[/quote]
i am having the same problem i tried switching the pins around but no luck. can someone let me know what pin is supposed to go where?
| Maniac | 05-25-2007 01:43 AM |
check your
�
�
PMs...
| maxpowr | 01-13-2008 03:05 AM |
where do i go from here?
can i get a simple answer on how to change the factory harness of the replica wrc dual halogen lamps. my issue is the same as everyone else in this thread. half lit high beam indicator, low dual high beam , normal drive lights no fogs when simply plugged in.
i have been through 100's of replies...
i got a free set i want to play with. i assume i will need relays and such...
thanks
can i get a simple answer on how to change the factory harness of the replica wrc dual halogen lamps. my issue is the same as everyone else in this thread. half lit high beam indicator, low dual high beam , normal drive lights no fogs when simply plugged in.
i have been through 100's of replies...
i got a free set i want to play with. i assume i will need relays and such...
thanks
| Handsdown | 01-13-2008 03:46 AM |
yes you will need relays. you should search on hidplanet forums for a relay harness thread, it says what to do but you need switched negative.
| Mulder | 01-13-2008 07:17 AM |
You don't need relays to get them to work properly. The two wires together (should be black but may not be) need to be on the center pin of the connectors, as wired from the factory they are not. Once the wires are swapped to where they belong the lights will work normally, you will then have a set of functioning but still very crappy lights.
| maxpowr | 05-21-2008 03:39 PM |
i am determined to make these lamps work. i have now spent 70$ in relays connectors and wire. i used these instructions to fail again.
1: Cut the harness on the new lights (white, blue and black wires) about 2-3� up from the large blue plug (leaving yourself enough room to use solderless, crimp type wire connectors).
2: Low Beam Relay:
#85 terminal on relay � to center (C) wire from plug (plug to factory harness)
#86 terminal on relay � to ground
#87 terminal on relay � to positive feed direct from battery
#30 terminal on relay � to either wire on headlamp bulb plug
3: High Beam Relay:
#85 terminal on relay � to positive feed direct from battery
#86 terminal on relay � to left (L) wire from plug (plug to factory harness)
#87 terminal on relay � to positive feed direct from battery
#30 terminal on relay � to either wire on headlamp bulb plug
4: The remaining, unattached wire on the headlamp bulb plug should go to ground.
this wiring basically worked aside from the passenger signal stayed lit.
with the ignition on and the lamps switched on the lamps worked properly. low beams on the outside , both lamps are lit with the high beam. the signal still flashed on both sides even with the passenger signal still on not blinking. i could live with that but problem came when i took the key out of ignition. the passenger signal goes out and the outer passenger low beam comes on...even with the key out of ignition. of course that will not work. when i disconnect the power to the lamp it goes off and stays off until i put the lamps on again.
any help is appreciated. i would try "The two wires together (should be black but may not be) need to be on the center pin of the connectors" but i have the relays and wires all hooked up in hope that i simply have the relays hooked up wrong. i don't want to take that apart just yet.
thanks
jake
1: Cut the harness on the new lights (white, blue and black wires) about 2-3� up from the large blue plug (leaving yourself enough room to use solderless, crimp type wire connectors).
2: Low Beam Relay:
#85 terminal on relay � to center (C) wire from plug (plug to factory harness)
#86 terminal on relay � to ground
#87 terminal on relay � to positive feed direct from battery
#30 terminal on relay � to either wire on headlamp bulb plug
3: High Beam Relay:
#85 terminal on relay � to positive feed direct from battery
#86 terminal on relay � to left (L) wire from plug (plug to factory harness)
#87 terminal on relay � to positive feed direct from battery
#30 terminal on relay � to either wire on headlamp bulb plug
4: The remaining, unattached wire on the headlamp bulb plug should go to ground.
this wiring basically worked aside from the passenger signal stayed lit.
with the ignition on and the lamps switched on the lamps worked properly. low beams on the outside , both lamps are lit with the high beam. the signal still flashed on both sides even with the passenger signal still on not blinking. i could live with that but problem came when i took the key out of ignition. the passenger signal goes out and the outer passenger low beam comes on...even with the key out of ignition. of course that will not work. when i disconnect the power to the lamp it goes off and stays off until i put the lamps on again.
any help is appreciated. i would try "The two wires together (should be black but may not be) need to be on the center pin of the connectors" but i have the relays and wires all hooked up in hope that i simply have the relays hooked up wrong. i don't want to take that apart just yet.
thanks
jake
| maxpowr | 05-24-2008 02:23 PM |
mulder please advise...although i can sense your frustration buliding...let me apologize in advance for your aggrevation.
the two wires together were the grounds i believe. moving them to the center pin?
i will try that.
a wiring schematic of my 02 wrx would be golden.
thanks
jake
the two wires together were the grounds i believe. moving them to the center pin?
i will try that.
a wiring schematic of my 02 wrx would be golden.
thanks
jake
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