| satrya | 12-02-2002 06:35 PM |
3M Scotchcal install pics
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For those of you contemplating on installing the 3M Scotchal clear sheets. Here are some pics and notes on the headlight/fog lens install. The 3M install for paint protection is a little bit different in that the 3M used is usually much thinner than the one used for the headlight/fog lenses. Hence, they are more pliable. The paint protection 3Ms are more involved to install, but not an impossible job if you like DIYs. The photos are of the headlight/fog covers, but the idea is the same.
You can find threads on where to get them. [url]www.xpel.com[/url] and [url]www.macneil.com[/url] comes to mind. There are many others.
Given that, let's start from the fog lens covers, since they're relatively flat. Prepare your alcohol and shampoo solution if you're working on the paint protection 3Ms. For the headlight/fogs, only the alcohol solution is needed. Even so, the shampoo solution is better for wetting your hands instead of the alcohol solution, imho.
(1) Make sure the surfaces are clean. Remove wax from paint.
(2) For headlight/fog lens cover, [B] turn on the lights[/B] to warm the lens. This will make life much easier especially for the headlight covers.
(3) Make sure your hands are clean and wet. [IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftfog001.jpg[/IMG]
(4) Peel the backing of the 3M sheet.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/rightfog002.jpg[/IMG]
Keywords: 3M, Scotchcal, xpel, clearbra, invisigard, stongard, clearshield
You can find threads on where to get them. [url]www.xpel.com[/url] and [url]www.macneil.com[/url] comes to mind. There are many others.
Given that, let's start from the fog lens covers, since they're relatively flat. Prepare your alcohol and shampoo solution if you're working on the paint protection 3Ms. For the headlight/fogs, only the alcohol solution is needed. Even so, the shampoo solution is better for wetting your hands instead of the alcohol solution, imho.
(1) Make sure the surfaces are clean. Remove wax from paint.
(2) For headlight/fog lens cover, [B] turn on the lights[/B] to warm the lens. This will make life much easier especially for the headlight covers.
(3) Make sure your hands are clean and wet. [IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftfog001.jpg[/IMG]
(4) Peel the backing of the 3M sheet.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/rightfog002.jpg[/IMG]
Keywords: 3M, Scotchcal, xpel, clearbra, invisigard, stongard, clearshield
| satrya | 12-02-2002 06:37 PM |
(5) After making sure that the surface is wet (with the alcohol solution for the lens, with a combination of alcohol and shampoo for the paint), align the 3M onto the area you wish to apply it to.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftfog002.jpg[/IMG]
(6) Squeegee the liquid starting from the center, radially outwards.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftfog003.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftfog002.jpg[/IMG]
(6) Squeegee the liquid starting from the center, radially outwards.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftfog003.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 12-02-2002 06:46 PM |
Another angle.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/rightfog004.jpg[/IMG]
(7) It may be difficult to evacuate the liquid from the periphery. This makes the edges of the 3M not stick properly to the lens surface. Use a lint-free, clean cloth, and cover the squegee with it, or use the cloth in place of the squeegee. Push the edge areas slowly, holding it at one spot for a few seconds or so. This encourages the 3M to stick to the lens while the liquid is being absorbed by the cloth.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/rightfog005.jpg[/IMG]
[B]Note[/B]: aside from being lint-free, make sure the cloth doesn't have loose threads. It can stick to the 3M adhesive, and may be hard to remove.
That's it for the fogs. Pretty simple, or so it seems.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/rightfog004.jpg[/IMG]
(7) It may be difficult to evacuate the liquid from the periphery. This makes the edges of the 3M not stick properly to the lens surface. Use a lint-free, clean cloth, and cover the squegee with it, or use the cloth in place of the squeegee. Push the edge areas slowly, holding it at one spot for a few seconds or so. This encourages the 3M to stick to the lens while the liquid is being absorbed by the cloth.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/rightfog005.jpg[/IMG]
[B]Note[/B]: aside from being lint-free, make sure the cloth doesn't have loose threads. It can stick to the 3M adhesive, and may be hard to remove.
That's it for the fogs. Pretty simple, or so it seems.
| satrya | 12-02-2002 06:53 PM |
Headlights
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Now the fun part. Headlights. They're much trickier since the lens surfaces are much more curved than that of the fogs'.
Aside from warming the lens by turning on the lights, make sure the 3M sheets are warm. You can tell that the 3Ms are warm enough by noticing how the 3Ms are relatively stiff when cold, and how they flex after you warm it up.
If you are doing this outside, and have no access to a portable heater, putting the 3Ms inside the engine hood for a few minutes can do the trick. Just make sure they don't rest on any of the hot metals in there. :)
On with the headlights.
(8) Again, make sure the lens is sprayed with the alcohol solution, and hands wetted with the shampoo solution (or alcohol solution, if you don't have the shampoo solution).
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftdrive001.jpg[/IMG]
(9) Align the 3M on the headlight.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftdrive002.jpg[/IMG]
Aside from warming the lens by turning on the lights, make sure the 3M sheets are warm. You can tell that the 3Ms are warm enough by noticing how the 3Ms are relatively stiff when cold, and how they flex after you warm it up.
If you are doing this outside, and have no access to a portable heater, putting the 3Ms inside the engine hood for a few minutes can do the trick. Just make sure they don't rest on any of the hot metals in there. :)
On with the headlights.
(8) Again, make sure the lens is sprayed with the alcohol solution, and hands wetted with the shampoo solution (or alcohol solution, if you don't have the shampoo solution).
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftdrive001.jpg[/IMG]
(9) Align the 3M on the headlight.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftdrive002.jpg[/IMG]
| satrya | 12-02-2002 07:02 PM |
The hard part
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Now for the hard part.
(10) Squeegee the 3M from the center, as in the fogs. Even with a properly warmed up lens and 3M sheet, you will notice that the sheet doesn't seem to want to conform to the lens.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftdrive003.jpg[/IMG]
(11) Using a squeegee in one hand, concentrate on a small area, always starting from the center (where you initially started). Use the other hand to press the lens on the area you just squegeed so that part of it now sticks to the lens. As seen in the photo above, it may seem like you will encounter creases, which would be undesirable. However, if you work from the center, and keep working on it, it will go away.
(12) As in the fogs, press on an area with both hands for a few seconds to make the 3M adhere to the lens. This is especally important for the edges. Using the lint-free cloth may help, although probably not much for the case of the headlights. After a while, it will look like this.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/rightdrive001.jpg[/IMG]
(10) Squeegee the 3M from the center, as in the fogs. Even with a properly warmed up lens and 3M sheet, you will notice that the sheet doesn't seem to want to conform to the lens.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftdrive003.jpg[/IMG]
(11) Using a squeegee in one hand, concentrate on a small area, always starting from the center (where you initially started). Use the other hand to press the lens on the area you just squegeed so that part of it now sticks to the lens. As seen in the photo above, it may seem like you will encounter creases, which would be undesirable. However, if you work from the center, and keep working on it, it will go away.
(12) As in the fogs, press on an area with both hands for a few seconds to make the 3M adhere to the lens. This is especally important for the edges. Using the lint-free cloth may help, although probably not much for the case of the headlights. After a while, it will look like this.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/rightdrive001.jpg[/IMG]
| Rally1 | 12-02-2002 07:06 PM |
thanks for posting all that.
still trying to figure out how you had both hands in the shot, and still took the picture ;)
still trying to figure out how you had both hands in the shot, and still took the picture ;)
| satrya | 12-02-2002 07:08 PM |
Temporary streaking
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Here's how it looks a few minutes after the install.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftlightafter01.jpg[/IMG]
The closeup below shows streaking on the 3M sheet.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftlightafter02.jpg[/IMG]
This is normal. Having done this several times, the streaking goes away eventually. Depending on the level of sunlight exposure, expect the streaks to remain for 2 days to 2 weeks. In time, you won't even remember that the 3Ms are there, until some big rock flies off onto the lens and the 3Ms do their job.
Note: I'm not sure why the 3M lens covers show streaking while the paint 3M covers don't; at least not as visually noticeable. It is possible that streaking occurs because the 3Ms used for the headlights are thicker, and the headlight lens contour is much more curved that most of the body panels that perfect evacuation of the alcohol solution between the lens and 3M is not possible. The addition of this alcohol solution between the lens and the 3M creates the streaking effect. In time, the alcohol solution evaporates, and the streaking dissapears. That's just my guess.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftlightafter01.jpg[/IMG]
The closeup below shows streaking on the 3M sheet.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/leftlightafter02.jpg[/IMG]
This is normal. Having done this several times, the streaking goes away eventually. Depending on the level of sunlight exposure, expect the streaks to remain for 2 days to 2 weeks. In time, you won't even remember that the 3Ms are there, until some big rock flies off onto the lens and the 3Ms do their job.
Note: I'm not sure why the 3M lens covers show streaking while the paint 3M covers don't; at least not as visually noticeable. It is possible that streaking occurs because the 3Ms used for the headlights are thicker, and the headlight lens contour is much more curved that most of the body panels that perfect evacuation of the alcohol solution between the lens and 3M is not possible. The addition of this alcohol solution between the lens and the 3M creates the streaking effect. In time, the alcohol solution evaporates, and the streaking dissapears. That's just my guess.
| satrya | 12-02-2002 07:14 PM |
Final shot
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The final photo. The blue WRX has the headlights, fogs, grille side pieces, side mirrors, front edges of the hood and fenders covered with the 3M sheet. The yellow one has slightly more comprehensive coverage. From this distance (and even closer), the 3Ms are unnoticeable, except for the streaking on the headlight lenses of the blue WRX. The photo was taken a few hours after the 3M install on the blue one.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/xpelled001.jpg[/IMG]
As a final note, if you're considering on installing the 3Ms for the body panels, I highly recommend that you also install the fogs and start from there first, to get the idea. If not try on some test area that is relatively flat. Have fun.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/wrx200209/xpelled001.jpg[/IMG]
As a final note, if you're considering on installing the 3Ms for the body panels, I highly recommend that you also install the fogs and start from there first, to get the idea. If not try on some test area that is relatively flat. Have fun.
| satrya | 12-02-2002 07:29 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Rally1 [/i]
[B]thanks for posting all that. [/B][/QUOTE]
You're welcome. :)
I've seen so many posts asking about people's experience/tips on the install. So I decided to post pics in addition.
[QUOTE][B]still trying to figure out how you had both hands in the shot, and still took the picture ;) [/B][/QUOTE]
:lol:
The owner of the blue wrx took the pics.
[B]thanks for posting all that. [/B][/QUOTE]
You're welcome. :)
I've seen so many posts asking about people's experience/tips on the install. So I decided to post pics in addition.
[QUOTE][B]still trying to figure out how you had both hands in the shot, and still took the picture ;) [/B][/QUOTE]
:lol:
The owner of the blue wrx took the pics.
| satrya | 12-04-2002 07:01 PM |
more pics
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Found these and I thought it may be interesting to put it in this thread.
This is an old close-up photo of the 3M on the headlights and hood. From the picture, it's rather hard to see where the 3M boundaries are.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/tmp/xpel001s.jpg[/IMG]
The 3M boundary on the hood can be clearly seen here, thanks to the different beading.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/tmp/xpel002s.jpg[/IMG]
This is an old close-up photo of the 3M on the headlights and hood. From the picture, it's rather hard to see where the 3M boundaries are.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/tmp/xpel001s.jpg[/IMG]
The 3M boundary on the hood can be clearly seen here, thanks to the different beading.
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/tmp/xpel002s.jpg[/IMG]
| SIMPFLY | 05-12-2004 05:08 PM |
nice pics
| Hank3 | 05-12-2004 05:43 PM |
Talk about reviving a thread :)
| satrya | 05-12-2004 05:58 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by SIMPFLY [/i]
[B]nice pics [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. I may try to take some update photos to show how it holds up after ~3 years.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Hank3 [/i]
[B]Talk about reviving a thread :) [/B][/QUOTE]
Old, yes, but at least it's not a bunch of red x's
:lol:
[B]nice pics [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. I may try to take some update photos to show how it holds up after ~3 years.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Hank3 [/i]
[B]Talk about reviving a thread :) [/B][/QUOTE]
Old, yes, but at least it's not a bunch of red x's
:lol:
| cnk | 05-12-2004 05:58 PM |
Noobs will do anything to up their post counts. ;) :devil:
Calvin
Calvin
| RockBlocker | 05-12-2004 07:16 PM |
Nice pics and detail
| SIMPFLY | 05-12-2004 07:25 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by cnk [/i]
[B]Noobs will do anything to up their post counts. ;) :devil:
Calvin [/B][/QUOTE]
And the specialists can't stop picking on the noobs
:p
[B]Noobs will do anything to up their post counts. ;) :devil:
Calvin [/B][/QUOTE]
And the specialists can't stop picking on the noobs
:p
| cnk | 05-12-2004 07:33 PM |
That's right. . know thy place noob!!! :lol: :banana:
Calvin
Calvin
| satrya | 05-12-2004 09:12 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by RockBlocker [/i]
[B]Nice pics and detail [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. Your site's how to is more detailed iirc.
[B]Nice pics and detail [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks. Your site's how to is more detailed iirc.
| volkl23 | 05-13-2004 12:51 PM |
Very good write up!
| BakedCookies | 05-13-2004 03:47 PM |
might be an old thread, but i sure hope hes clipped those nails by now! :lol: :p
| subieworx | 05-14-2004 02:20 PM |
Do you just wax this stuff as normal when you wax your car?
| cnk | 05-14-2004 02:48 PM |
Yes. . .you're supposed to treat it as if it's not there.
Calvin
Calvin
| subieworx | 05-14-2004 03:09 PM |
I think I am going to get some. I have a JBP 04 sedan and am already getting chips and nicks like crazy.
| satrya | 05-14-2004 03:31 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by volkl23 [/i]
[B]Very good write up! [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks for your feedback. For a pro's point of view, there's a how-to in Rockblocker's site somewhere ([url]www.rockblocker.com[/url] ?). Good tips there. There may be other pro installer sites that offer good tips as well. I think [url]www.xpel.com[/url] used to offer [U]free installation video[/U] with every purchase. Certainly gave me the extra courage to DIY in the first place.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by BakedCookies [/i]
[B]might be an old thread, but i sure hope hes clipped those nails by now! :lol: :p [/B][/QUOTE]
On a serious note, any dirt underneath the nails may get between the paint surface and the 3M, especially when working with the alcohol & shampoo solutions. But they (not-short fingernails) do help if you need to pinch small areas on the edges to make them stick. [U]Keep a negative angle of attack[/U] though.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by subieworx [/i]
[B]Do you just wax this stuff as normal when you wax your car? [/B][QUOTE][i]Originally posted by cnk [/i]
[B]Yes. . .you're supposed to treat it as if it's not there.
[/B][/QUOTE] [/QUOTE]
Agreed. And as long as you remove the wax residue on the edges of the film, the presence of the film on the body shouldn't be too noticeable.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by subieworx [/i]
[B]I think I am going to get some. I have a JBP 04 sedan and am already getting chips and nicks like crazy. [/B][/QUOTE]
Well worth the investment imho. They are rated for 7 years iirc, so you can just peel them off and replace them after that long.
I recommend getting the surface cleaned thoroughly and perhaps apply some touch-up paint on the chips before you cover them with the 3M. I have some chips that I simply cleaned up and didn't bother touching-up before putting the 3M on. Almost 3 years have gone, and although I see no evidence of rust, it's probably a better idea to touch it up first.
[B]Very good write up! [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks for your feedback. For a pro's point of view, there's a how-to in Rockblocker's site somewhere ([url]www.rockblocker.com[/url] ?). Good tips there. There may be other pro installer sites that offer good tips as well. I think [url]www.xpel.com[/url] used to offer [U]free installation video[/U] with every purchase. Certainly gave me the extra courage to DIY in the first place.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by BakedCookies [/i]
[B]might be an old thread, but i sure hope hes clipped those nails by now! :lol: :p [/B][/QUOTE]
On a serious note, any dirt underneath the nails may get between the paint surface and the 3M, especially when working with the alcohol & shampoo solutions. But they (not-short fingernails) do help if you need to pinch small areas on the edges to make them stick. [U]Keep a negative angle of attack[/U] though.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by subieworx [/i]
[B]Do you just wax this stuff as normal when you wax your car? [/B][QUOTE][i]Originally posted by cnk [/i]
[B]Yes. . .you're supposed to treat it as if it's not there.
[/B][/QUOTE] [/QUOTE]
Agreed. And as long as you remove the wax residue on the edges of the film, the presence of the film on the body shouldn't be too noticeable.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by subieworx [/i]
[B]I think I am going to get some. I have a JBP 04 sedan and am already getting chips and nicks like crazy. [/B][/QUOTE]
Well worth the investment imho. They are rated for 7 years iirc, so you can just peel them off and replace them after that long.
I recommend getting the surface cleaned thoroughly and perhaps apply some touch-up paint on the chips before you cover them with the 3M. I have some chips that I simply cleaned up and didn't bother touching-up before putting the 3M on. Almost 3 years have gone, and although I see no evidence of rust, it's probably a better idea to touch it up first.
| subieworx | 05-14-2004 03:52 PM |
I would think there would be any way of it rusting with the lack of water and air to the surface.
| satrya | 05-14-2004 04:01 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by subieworx [/i]
[B]I would think there would be any way of it rusting with the lack of water and air to the surface. [/B][/QUOTE]
I'm not 100% positive, but I know for a fact that any alcohol+water solution left between the paint surface and the film evaporates, even if the alcohol+water is trapped in a "pocket" in the middle of the film with seemingly no access to the edge. That leads me to believe that the film is porous with respect to water and alcohol molecules. Oxygen is smaller, so if water can get out, Oxygen could get in. But I'm not sure if the porosity is true in both directions.
By the way, I don't mean porous enough to act like a sponge of course.
[B]I would think there would be any way of it rusting with the lack of water and air to the surface. [/B][/QUOTE]
I'm not 100% positive, but I know for a fact that any alcohol+water solution left between the paint surface and the film evaporates, even if the alcohol+water is trapped in a "pocket" in the middle of the film with seemingly no access to the edge. That leads me to believe that the film is porous with respect to water and alcohol molecules. Oxygen is smaller, so if water can get out, Oxygen could get in. But I'm not sure if the porosity is true in both directions.
By the way, I don't mean porous enough to act like a sponge of course.
| subieworx | 05-14-2004 04:23 PM |
Did you apply it to the hood and bumper as well? Where did you get the squeegee from? What was the solution that you used for lubrication of the film?
| satrya | 05-14-2004 05:03 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by subieworx [/i]
[B]Did you apply it to the hood and bumper as well?[/B][/QUOTE]
Yes and no. The blue wrx on this thread used a pre-cut pattern. I don't recall where the owner got it from. For my yellow wrx, I bought raw [B]8-mil[/B] (for paint) & [B]40-mil[/B] (for headlights/fogs) thick materials from xpel.com and cut my own template. Later on, I did the same for my forester.
In the final photo (with both the blue & yellow wrx), the blue wrx has 3M installed on the [B]headlights, fogs, hood, side mirrors, & side fenders[/B] (near the sidemarkers). The yellow one has 3M on [B]headlights, fogs, hood[/B] (a little larger than the pre-cut pattern on the blue wrx)[B], side fenders[/B] (a little larger than the pre-cut also)[B], and some strips on the bumper[/B]. It is nearly impossible to see from the photo I posted. In fact, even as it is generally visible 3 feet away in person, you sometimes have to get up closer to get it distinguishable in a photo.
To answer what you might be asking next, protecting the plastic bumper cover with anything more than strips is actually not simple. Imho, I wouldn't attempt it as the first DIY. Based solely on my opinion, the install difficulty, from easiest to hardest, is:
fogs
side fenders
side mirrors
hood
headlights
bumper
The reason why I say the bumper piece is the most difficult is because other than the fact that it is rather large, it needs to be installed in a relatively vertical surface. Having someone assist in holding the 3M makes it a lot easier.
[QUOTE][B]Where did you get the squeegee from?[/B][/QUOTE]
Most retailers provide it as a [B]part of the package[/B]. Mine also came with general instructions, the squeegee, and what I think is a wax remover pad (I could be wrong).
[QUOTE][B]What was the solution that you used for lubrication of the film? [/B][/QUOTE]
There is the [B]alcohol solution[/B] (mix of [U][B]clean[/B][/U] water and isopropyl / rubbing alcohol), [B]and[/B] the [B]shampoo solution[/B] (mix of [B]baby shampoo[/B] and clean water). Recommended mix ratio of the alcohol solution varies depending on where you read the documentation from.
I've seen 1:2 and 1:3 ratio for alcohol:water. I've used either range and didn't see much difference. Seem pretty robust to mixture variation. The shampoo solution requires only a few drops of unscented shampoo (do not substitute with soap or anything other than baby shampoo unless you want to experiment with how leftover particles look like under the 3M film) enough to make the solution slippery without being foamy.
The shampoo solution is to temporarily negate the adhesive from sticking to the installed surface. The more shampoo solution you spray on both the (adhesive side of the) 3M and the surface, the easier it glides around for you to position the 3M onto the surface. The more comfortable & familiar you are with the installation process, the less you need the shampoo solution.
The alcohol solution is to [B]evacuate everything including the shampoo solution[/B] before you squeegee the 3M onto the installed surface. Failure to evacuate the shampoo solution with the alcohol solution prior to sqeegeeing will make installation very difficult, since the 3M won't seem to stick. Failure to cover an area with the alcohol solution could lead to trapped air bubbles.
It might sound intimidating, but once you try it on a dummy piece and get the basic idea, it's not that hard.
[B]Did you apply it to the hood and bumper as well?[/B][/QUOTE]
Yes and no. The blue wrx on this thread used a pre-cut pattern. I don't recall where the owner got it from. For my yellow wrx, I bought raw [B]8-mil[/B] (for paint) & [B]40-mil[/B] (for headlights/fogs) thick materials from xpel.com and cut my own template. Later on, I did the same for my forester.
In the final photo (with both the blue & yellow wrx), the blue wrx has 3M installed on the [B]headlights, fogs, hood, side mirrors, & side fenders[/B] (near the sidemarkers). The yellow one has 3M on [B]headlights, fogs, hood[/B] (a little larger than the pre-cut pattern on the blue wrx)[B], side fenders[/B] (a little larger than the pre-cut also)[B], and some strips on the bumper[/B]. It is nearly impossible to see from the photo I posted. In fact, even as it is generally visible 3 feet away in person, you sometimes have to get up closer to get it distinguishable in a photo.
To answer what you might be asking next, protecting the plastic bumper cover with anything more than strips is actually not simple. Imho, I wouldn't attempt it as the first DIY. Based solely on my opinion, the install difficulty, from easiest to hardest, is:
fogs
side fenders
side mirrors
hood
headlights
bumper
The reason why I say the bumper piece is the most difficult is because other than the fact that it is rather large, it needs to be installed in a relatively vertical surface. Having someone assist in holding the 3M makes it a lot easier.
[QUOTE][B]Where did you get the squeegee from?[/B][/QUOTE]
Most retailers provide it as a [B]part of the package[/B]. Mine also came with general instructions, the squeegee, and what I think is a wax remover pad (I could be wrong).
[QUOTE][B]What was the solution that you used for lubrication of the film? [/B][/QUOTE]
There is the [B]alcohol solution[/B] (mix of [U][B]clean[/B][/U] water and isopropyl / rubbing alcohol), [B]and[/B] the [B]shampoo solution[/B] (mix of [B]baby shampoo[/B] and clean water). Recommended mix ratio of the alcohol solution varies depending on where you read the documentation from.
I've seen 1:2 and 1:3 ratio for alcohol:water. I've used either range and didn't see much difference. Seem pretty robust to mixture variation. The shampoo solution requires only a few drops of unscented shampoo (do not substitute with soap or anything other than baby shampoo unless you want to experiment with how leftover particles look like under the 3M film) enough to make the solution slippery without being foamy.
The shampoo solution is to temporarily negate the adhesive from sticking to the installed surface. The more shampoo solution you spray on both the (adhesive side of the) 3M and the surface, the easier it glides around for you to position the 3M onto the surface. The more comfortable & familiar you are with the installation process, the less you need the shampoo solution.
The alcohol solution is to [B]evacuate everything including the shampoo solution[/B] before you squeegee the 3M onto the installed surface. Failure to evacuate the shampoo solution with the alcohol solution prior to sqeegeeing will make installation very difficult, since the 3M won't seem to stick. Failure to cover an area with the alcohol solution could lead to trapped air bubbles.
It might sound intimidating, but once you try it on a dummy piece and get the basic idea, it's not that hard.
| jsavage | 05-14-2004 06:45 PM |
Do they make a smoked or tinted 3M film?
| satrya | 05-14-2004 08:04 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by jsavage [/i]
[B]Do they make a smoked or tinted 3M film? [/B][/QUOTE]
According to 3M's site, their paint protection film is only available as the clear one as in my pictures in this thread.
There are other manufacturers that make smoked, blue, yellow, and perhaps other colored transparent films. I know only one off the top of my head: [url]www.rockblocker.com[/url]
I believe the manufacturer for the colored film that they carry comes from Lamin-X. I've only seen the yellow in person. It looks like this:
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/200402reriegrille2/grille204.jpg[/IMG]
[B]Do they make a smoked or tinted 3M film? [/B][/QUOTE]
According to 3M's site, their paint protection film is only available as the clear one as in my pictures in this thread.
There are other manufacturers that make smoked, blue, yellow, and perhaps other colored transparent films. I know only one off the top of my head: [url]www.rockblocker.com[/url]
I believe the manufacturer for the colored film that they carry comes from Lamin-X. I've only seen the yellow in person. It looks like this:
[IMG]http://mechatro2.me.berkeley.edu/~satrya/pics/photos/200402reriegrille2/grille204.jpg[/IMG]
| MonoSki | 05-14-2004 08:26 PM |
Keep in mind that the light covers are made from clear PVC Vinyl. Vinyl evaporates and becomes brittle over time. They loose half their weight in just 2 years.
Oh, and I have tried the light covers on a few cars and all the fogs cracked from being too hot, and one of the headlights cracked after a few years, presumably due to the loss of resiliency due to weight loss. It is a balance I guess.
The paint film is urethane, and is stable over time. Wouldn't drive a car without it, and yet wouldn't drive a car with vinyl headlight covers...
Good luck though.
Oh, and I have tried the light covers on a few cars and all the fogs cracked from being too hot, and one of the headlights cracked after a few years, presumably due to the loss of resiliency due to weight loss. It is a balance I guess.
The paint film is urethane, and is stable over time. Wouldn't drive a car without it, and yet wouldn't drive a car with vinyl headlight covers...
Good luck though.
| subieworx | 05-14-2004 09:54 PM |
I think I am going to start with the hood, mirrors and fender pieces. I can get those off rockblocker.com for about 50-70.
I am confused on one thing. When applying, first I spray the area (car and plastic) with the soapy water solution and test fit, then lift it back up and spray on the alcohol solution?
I am confused on one thing. When applying, first I spray the area (car and plastic) with the soapy water solution and test fit, then lift it back up and spray on the alcohol solution?
| cnk | 05-14-2004 10:40 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by subieworx [/i]
[B]I am confused on one thing. When applying, first I spray the area (car and plastic) with the soapy water solution and test fit, then lift it back up and spray on the alcohol solution? [/B][/QUOTE]
That is correct. Position it with the soapy solution and then run your finger down the middle to set the film. Lift up one half and spray with the alcohol solution. . then the other half. Then squeegie.
Calvin
[B]I am confused on one thing. When applying, first I spray the area (car and plastic) with the soapy water solution and test fit, then lift it back up and spray on the alcohol solution? [/B][/QUOTE]
That is correct. Position it with the soapy solution and then run your finger down the middle to set the film. Lift up one half and spray with the alcohol solution. . then the other half. Then squeegie.
Calvin
| satrya | 05-15-2004 12:50 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by MonoSki [/i]
[B]Keep in mind that the light covers are made from clear PVC Vinyl. Vinyl evaporates and becomes brittle over time. They loose half their weight in just 2 years. [/B][/QUOTE]
Interesting. I'm not 100% sure what the light covers I have are made of.
In one hand, I recall buying clear 40-mil (for headlight & foglight protection) as well as 8-mil films (for paint protection) long time ago from xpel. They all had a [B]3M mark on the adhesive backing[/B].
On the other hand, 3M's current site says that they only have [B]8 and 14 mil[/B] films (this is for the new & improved version), but none for headlights/foglights.
[URL=http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?eeeeeeO48qtezIfeSIfeeejK9Q9fuw5B-]According to 3M's datasheet[/URL], the layer composition is a combination of an undisclosed [B]protective clear coat[/B] (OEM-approved clearcoat according to 3M's FAQ page here: [url]http://cms.3m.com/cms/US/en/2-168/ckukRFO/view.jhtml#maintenance[/url] ), [B]urethane, & acrylic adhesive[/B].
So far, ~3 years using 40 mil 3M clear film on the headlights & foglights on my impreza, ~2 years using 40 mil 3M clear film on the headlights on my forester, ~1.5 years using Lamin-X yellow film on the foglights, and no cracks on any of the lenses.
[B]Keep in mind that the light covers are made from clear PVC Vinyl. Vinyl evaporates and becomes brittle over time. They loose half their weight in just 2 years. [/B][/QUOTE]
Interesting. I'm not 100% sure what the light covers I have are made of.
In one hand, I recall buying clear 40-mil (for headlight & foglight protection) as well as 8-mil films (for paint protection) long time ago from xpel. They all had a [B]3M mark on the adhesive backing[/B].
On the other hand, 3M's current site says that they only have [B]8 and 14 mil[/B] films (this is for the new & improved version), but none for headlights/foglights.
[URL=http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?eeeeeeO48qtezIfeSIfeeejK9Q9fuw5B-]According to 3M's datasheet[/URL], the layer composition is a combination of an undisclosed [B]protective clear coat[/B] (OEM-approved clearcoat according to 3M's FAQ page here: [url]http://cms.3m.com/cms/US/en/2-168/ckukRFO/view.jhtml#maintenance[/url] ), [B]urethane, & acrylic adhesive[/B].
So far, ~3 years using 40 mil 3M clear film on the headlights & foglights on my impreza, ~2 years using 40 mil 3M clear film on the headlights on my forester, ~1.5 years using Lamin-X yellow film on the foglights, and no cracks on any of the lenses.
| RockBlocker | 05-15-2004 11:05 AM |
A couple of pointers.
- The light protection is made from a high impact PVC vinyl with a 3M adhesive backing so it will stay put on the light.
- When installing the paint protection material we have change ourr solution ratio to 50-50 water and alcohol. The reason for this is it allows the material to float across the surface of the paint like using soap.
We no longer use soap for installing because it can at times if you are not careful leave the soap residue behind and it may not cure out.
The stronger mixture also allows for a lighter install with the squeegee that way if you get a piece of debris of some sort in the piece it makes it easer to pick up, clean and re apply.
Along those same lines it also limits the stop and start line that can be cuased from having to pick the material back up to fix something.
Sorry for the long essay, just thought I would share some of the new tricks we have learned over the last month.
RockBlocker
- The light protection is made from a high impact PVC vinyl with a 3M adhesive backing so it will stay put on the light.
- When installing the paint protection material we have change ourr solution ratio to 50-50 water and alcohol. The reason for this is it allows the material to float across the surface of the paint like using soap.
We no longer use soap for installing because it can at times if you are not careful leave the soap residue behind and it may not cure out.
The stronger mixture also allows for a lighter install with the squeegee that way if you get a piece of debris of some sort in the piece it makes it easer to pick up, clean and re apply.
Along those same lines it also limits the stop and start line that can be cuased from having to pick the material back up to fix something.
Sorry for the long essay, just thought I would share some of the new tricks we have learned over the last month.
RockBlocker
| satrya | 05-15-2004 12:00 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by RockBlocker [/i]
[B]Sorry for the long essay, just thought I would share some of the new tricks we have learned over the last month. [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks for sharing the tricks.
So the 40 mil light protection films aren't 100% 3M then?
I agree with the soap possibly left behind. I wasn't aware that more water to the alcohol solution makes it more slippery.
Could you elaborate on what "stronger" means in the 5th paragraph? More water?
[B]Sorry for the long essay, just thought I would share some of the new tricks we have learned over the last month. [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks for sharing the tricks.
So the 40 mil light protection films aren't 100% 3M then?
I agree with the soap possibly left behind. I wasn't aware that more water to the alcohol solution makes it more slippery.
Could you elaborate on what "stronger" means in the 5th paragraph? More water?
| RockBlocker | 05-15-2004 12:14 PM |
That would be correct on the 40 mil or any thickness. 3M does make the light material just the adhesive backing.
What I meant is the stronger 50-50 than the traditional 75-25 solution. Since the film is floating you can press less on the top surface which is what you want so you dont take a chance of scratching the clear coat finish of the film.
I flush out the edges if need be with 75-25 to make the edges stick.
What I meant is the stronger 50-50 than the traditional 75-25 solution. Since the film is floating you can press less on the top surface which is what you want so you dont take a chance of scratching the clear coat finish of the film.
I flush out the edges if need be with 75-25 to make the edges stick.
| MonoSki | 05-15-2004 03:31 PM |
The full explanation that was emailed to me
�
�
[quote]Vinyl, PVC (polyvinylchloride) and several other common plastics share essentially the same chemical makeup with one notable exception, plasticisers. These are the chemicals that make your shower curtain more pliable than pvc pipe. The problem is that these plastisisers evaporate over time. This is where that Vinyl smell comes from. All Vinyls will become hard and brittle. For example: A shower curtain will loose about half of its weight in two years due to evaporation of the plastisisers. Have you ever noticed how much heavier the new one is? The same thing is happening to your paint (or headlight) protection. The protection on your car is literally evaporating away as time goes by. As it evaporates, it is getting hard and less able to protect. Urethanes on the other hand, have proven to remain pliable for ten plus years in severe use. They will also eventually become brittle, but not in the very short time of vinyl.
In summary:
In the world of paint protection, Vinyl is bottom feeding. Research and find out what you are buying. As far as I know, DynaShield is currently the only manufacture using urethane film to manufacture headlight protection. Available in 6, 12, and 26 mil thickness. With the exception of Clearbra, just about everyone is using urethane for paint protection.
[/quote]
In summary:
In the world of paint protection, Vinyl is bottom feeding. Research and find out what you are buying. As far as I know, DynaShield is currently the only manufacture using urethane film to manufacture headlight protection. Available in 6, 12, and 26 mil thickness. With the exception of Clearbra, just about everyone is using urethane for paint protection.
[/quote]
| satrya | 05-15-2004 09:13 PM |
Re: The full explanation that was emailed to me
�
�
Where/what is the source of that full explanation if I may ask?
| MonoSki | 05-16-2004 12:01 AM |
From Mike Messer - the owner of Dynashield and one of the best installers out there, also one of the most knowledgeable. One of their tag lines 'The Finest Transparent Auto Bra Money Can Buy'
[url]http://www.dynashield.com/index.html[/url]
[url]http://www.dynashield.com/index.html[/url]
| satrya | 05-16-2004 11:16 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by MonoSki [/i]
[B][url]http://www.dynashield.com/index.html[/url] [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks.
Interesting. They also carry products from xpel.com according to their site. xpel is where I got the 3M paint protection films for this installation from. In that sense, I'm not sure if there's a difference between dynashield's and the 3M Scotchgard line.
(Note: they seemed to have separated the paint protection product name from the Sctochcal line in 2003. Iirc, it was called Scotchcal before, along with various other products.)
[B][url]http://www.dynashield.com/index.html[/url] [/B][/QUOTE]
Thanks.
Interesting. They also carry products from xpel.com according to their site. xpel is where I got the 3M paint protection films for this installation from. In that sense, I'm not sure if there's a difference between dynashield's and the 3M Scotchgard line.
(Note: they seemed to have separated the paint protection product name from the Sctochcal line in 2003. Iirc, it was called Scotchcal before, along with various other products.)
| RockBlocker | 05-16-2004 11:27 AM |
3M did some marketing research and found ScotchGuard is the second most recognized product from 3M behind Post-it notes. That is why they changed the name.
| MonoSki | 05-16-2004 04:04 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by satrya [/i]
[B]Thanks.
Interesting. They also carry products from xpel.com according to their site. xpel is where I got the 3M paint protection films for this installation from. In that sense, I'm not sure if there's a difference between dynashield's and the 3M Scotchgard line.
[/B][/QUOTE]
xpel uses 3M urethane for its paint protection kits and vinyl for its headlight kits
dynashield's light covers are urethane, not vinyl.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by RockBlocker [/i][B]
3M did some marketing research and found ScotchGuard is the second most recognized product from 3M behind Post-it notes. That is why they changed the name[/B][/QUOTE]
They also changed the film. It is now clearer and looks even better. (Co-worker just had her white Tahoe done and it is really hard to see!)
[B]Thanks.
Interesting. They also carry products from xpel.com according to their site. xpel is where I got the 3M paint protection films for this installation from. In that sense, I'm not sure if there's a difference between dynashield's and the 3M Scotchgard line.
[/B][/QUOTE]
xpel uses 3M urethane for its paint protection kits and vinyl for its headlight kits
dynashield's light covers are urethane, not vinyl.
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by RockBlocker [/i][B]
3M did some marketing research and found ScotchGuard is the second most recognized product from 3M behind Post-it notes. That is why they changed the name[/B][/QUOTE]
They also changed the film. It is now clearer and looks even better. (Co-worker just had her white Tahoe done and it is really hard to see!)
| satrya | 05-16-2004 04:19 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by MonoSki [/i]
[B]They also changed the film. It is now clearer and looks even better. (Co-worker just had her white Tahoe done and it is really hard to see!) [/B][/QUOTE]
I recall reading a post where Rockblocker mentioned the design change as well. I wasn't aware of the reason why they decided to distinguish the paint protection line from the Scotchcal group though.
[SIZE=1]Now that the name has changed, I wish I know a way to change the main title of this thread from "3M Scotchcal install pics" into "3M Scotchgard install pics". Afaik, I can only edit the title of my posts, but not the main title.[/SIZE]
[B]They also changed the film. It is now clearer and looks even better. (Co-worker just had her white Tahoe done and it is really hard to see!) [/B][/QUOTE]
I recall reading a post where Rockblocker mentioned the design change as well. I wasn't aware of the reason why they decided to distinguish the paint protection line from the Scotchcal group though.
[SIZE=1]Now that the name has changed, I wish I know a way to change the main title of this thread from "3M Scotchcal install pics" into "3M Scotchgard install pics". Afaik, I can only edit the title of my posts, but not the main title.[/SIZE]
| MonoSki | 05-16-2004 04:54 PM |
Well the new version has only been available for a month or so- according to my co-worker's installer. So your paint film is most probably scotchcal. I wouldn't worry about it. I have had the film installed on all my vehicles or the past few years and could not be happier!
| satrya | 05-16-2004 07:36 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by MonoSki [/i]
[B]Well the new version has only been available for a month or so- according to my co-worker's installer. So your paint film is most probably scotchcal.[/B][/QUOTE]
Yes, I'm well aware of that. I installed my first one in late 2001, when it was still called Scotchcal.
[QUOTE][B]I wouldn't worry about it.[/B][/QUOTE]
Wouldn't worry about the fact that mine is the older one or wouldn't worry about the fact that the name in the title is outdated? I actually meant the latter, since it could be misinform others.
[QUOTE][B]I have had the film installed on all my vehicles or the past few years and could not be happier! [/B][/QUOTE]
And I couldn't agree more. Having applied it to a yellow (-->blaze yellow) and dark blue (-->pacifica blue pearl), I'm not at all concerned about the possible yellowing of the film. If it does over many years, I don't think it would be visible in my case.
I just wished they offered the wider films back then.
[B]Well the new version has only been available for a month or so- according to my co-worker's installer. So your paint film is most probably scotchcal.[/B][/QUOTE]
Yes, I'm well aware of that. I installed my first one in late 2001, when it was still called Scotchcal.
[QUOTE][B]I wouldn't worry about it.[/B][/QUOTE]
Wouldn't worry about the fact that mine is the older one or wouldn't worry about the fact that the name in the title is outdated? I actually meant the latter, since it could be misinform others.
[QUOTE][B]I have had the film installed on all my vehicles or the past few years and could not be happier! [/B][/QUOTE]
And I couldn't agree more. Having applied it to a yellow (-->blaze yellow) and dark blue (-->pacifica blue pearl), I'm not at all concerned about the possible yellowing of the film. If it does over many years, I don't think it would be visible in my case.
I just wished they offered the wider films back then.
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