| Gspot | 10-18-2004 12:56 PM |
How to de-bling muffler
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How can I get rid of the polished shine of a stainless steel muffler. I suppose I could sand it down, but wouldnt it be more prone to rusting then?
| Tobey | 10-18-2004 12:58 PM |
i painted my old greddy evo canister flat black with "woodstove black" spray. i kept the tip polished but i suppose you could paint it as well.
held up pretty well.
held up pretty well.
| Needles | 10-18-2004 01:13 PM |
someone on the forums did paint there muffer flat black
| Gspot | 10-18-2004 01:36 PM |
i dont really want to paint it black though, just make it more stock colored
| mbiker97 | 10-18-2004 01:43 PM |
Paint it silver then. If you sand it you should really seal it (i.e. paint it)
| Gspot | 10-18-2004 01:49 PM |
i suppose thats teh route to go. That high temp engine paint should be adequate, right?
| pezman04wrx | 10-18-2004 01:53 PM |
Well, if you don't really like the flat black ... There are still other colors in the heat resitant paints ... Likely, a light grey would be a good call to appear stock ... On the other hand, as long as your muffler is stainless steel, I wouldn't see any reason you couldn't sand blast it, scuff it up, or something ... It shouldn't be any more likely to rust as it's stainless steel and not simply polished steel or aluminized ...
| Gspot | 10-18-2004 02:00 PM |
yeah I wasnt sure how stainless steel works
| Panic | 10-18-2004 04:17 PM |
Just get some high heat engine paint (available in a whole variety of colors) and sand the thing and paint it...I used some "ceramic" high heat engine paint on the exhaust on my old honda and it lasted perfectly for 2+ years...
| jac04 | 10-18-2004 09:01 PM |
Sand blast it at medium pressure (about 75 psi) with Florida Biasil sand. This is a very, very fine sand that will give the stainless a satin look.
| Leonardo | 10-18-2004 10:06 PM |
I concur!
| Subahaulic | 10-19-2004 10:01 AM |
Also--a less attractive, but easier, finish is to "blue it" with carefully applied heat from a propane torch.
| Gspot | 10-19-2004 02:47 PM |
sandblast? Yeah right, I've got some paper....400 or 600? =)
| Jon-RIWRX | 10-19-2004 03:26 PM |
I just bought a sand blaster... best tool ever!
- Jon
- Jon
| jac04 | 10-19-2004 05:06 PM |
If you are going to sand it, I would start with 800 grit wet-or-dry paper. It is going to be difficult to get a consistent finish with sandpaper. The sandblaster is your friend!
| Gspot | 10-19-2004 05:24 PM |
hmm...how much and where? I'll probably just have to sand it and paint it then.
| ooberdoob | 10-22-2004 12:49 PM |
i don't imagine bead blasting would even touch stainless would it?
| exhacker | 10-22-2004 01:00 PM |
Jet coating / ceramic coating would be < $50 for the axle-back.
That would look very cool. I think they have several colors... greyish/silver is what my roommate did to his uppipe and downpipe. It looks very nice. Kind of a grainy finish, with just a hint of purple. The ceramic coat also helps laminar (sp?) flow, but probably not too gain in flow since it is far downstream.
$0.02
That would look very cool. I think they have several colors... greyish/silver is what my roommate did to his uppipe and downpipe. It looks very nice. Kind of a grainy finish, with just a hint of purple. The ceramic coat also helps laminar (sp?) flow, but probably not too gain in flow since it is far downstream.
$0.02
| WRB_in_my_veins | 10-22-2004 05:07 PM |
Just so you lend me a little bit of credibilty, I'll start by telling you that I am a Mechanical Engineer. Stainless steel is stainless through and through. All stainless steels will rust, it just depends on the conditions. Now, go hang it from a buoy out in the Atlantic, it will disappear in less than a year. Your stainless will not rust if you sand it, all they've done to the material is polish it to that mirror shine. You could polish out any scratches, or go the other way, and scratch up the whole surface with a sandpaper, either way it'll have just as much corosion prevention as it always had.
| exhacker | 10-26-2004 08:51 PM |
[QUOTE=WRB_in_my_veins]Your stainless will not RESIST rust if you sand it, all they've done to the material is polish it to that mirror shine.[/QUOTE]
I think that's what he meant.
-x
I think that's what he meant.
-x
| silverstreak619 | 10-26-2004 09:11 PM |
[QUOTE=Tobey]i painted my old greddy evo canister flat black with "woodstove black" spray. i kept the tip polished but i suppose you could paint it as well.
held up pretty well.[/QUOTE]
Hey do you have pics I have the same exhaust I just wanna see how it looks like
held up pretty well.[/QUOTE]
Hey do you have pics I have the same exhaust I just wanna see how it looks like
| Tex-WReX | 10-26-2004 09:51 PM |
Three years ago, there were hardly any cat back systems (3 inch). The 5 Ziegen was my choice at that time. The can was a little large and shiny for me, but a few coats of black and high temp primer, and I think it looks far better. No attention is even paid to it now. I have been stopped before, and the police never even mention a word about the exhaust.
[img]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTgxMDUzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTgxMDUzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg[/img]
| Tobey | 12-07-2004 10:11 PM |
[QUOTE=jac04]Sand blast it at medium pressure (about 75 psi) with Florida Biasil sand. This is a very, very fine sand that will give the stainless a satin look.[/QUOTE]
i would like to see pics of the results from this process. i am trying to get my RFL to look a little more subtle...
i would like to see pics of the results from this process. i am trying to get my RFL to look a little more subtle...
| 1SIKWRX4U2NV | 12-07-2004 10:14 PM |
it's true...if you keep your tip clean and shiny you are guaranteed to draw attention. I leave my evo the nice dirty color you get from simply driving around without cleaning it for a couple weeks...no paint or primer needed!
| afpdl | 12-07-2004 11:35 PM |
You could just not wash it.
| Pronto_Breakneck | 12-08-2004 02:12 AM |
Paint doesn't stick to stainless easily. If you want to do it right, you'll need to prep it with something like hydrofluoric acid. Dangerous stuff.
If you decide to paint it without prepping it properly, don't put too much effort into it. I'll just be falling off in a year or so.
If you decide to paint it without prepping it properly, don't put too much effort into it. I'll just be falling off in a year or so.
| Tobey | 12-08-2004 09:34 AM |
i painted my old greddy evo and the paint stuck really well, i just scuffed it up real good.
i've decided i don't like the painted look. i want the metal to have a dull finish but i want it to look like metal. i already used some scotchbrite to give it a grained look but it's not doing it for me. i like the sandblasting idea but have NO experience with it. :(
i've decided i don't like the painted look. i want the metal to have a dull finish but i want it to look like metal. i already used some scotchbrite to give it a grained look but it's not doing it for me. i like the sandblasting idea but have NO experience with it. :(
| jac04 | 12-08-2004 11:59 AM |
[QUOTE=Tobey]i like the sandblasting idea but have NO experience with it. :([/QUOTE]
Tobey-
I just blasted some cast aluminum parts for a guy restoring an old Penton dirt bike - they came out great with a nice, smooth matt finish. I use a super fine sand by DuPont called Biasil sand. I see that you are Seacoast, NH location which is essentially Portsmouth. You are about 2.5 hours from me. I'm in north central CT. If you want, I will blast your exhaust for you. All I ask for is a $5 donation for the sand (its $7.75 a bag). PM me if you are interested.
-Jeff
Tobey-
I just blasted some cast aluminum parts for a guy restoring an old Penton dirt bike - they came out great with a nice, smooth matt finish. I use a super fine sand by DuPont called Biasil sand. I see that you are Seacoast, NH location which is essentially Portsmouth. You are about 2.5 hours from me. I'm in north central CT. If you want, I will blast your exhaust for you. All I ask for is a $5 donation for the sand (its $7.75 a bag). PM me if you are interested.
-Jeff
| Tobey | 12-08-2004 12:14 PM |
where can you get that sand? do you think it would have the same effect on stainless? my dad just bought a sandblaster so if you can shoot me some info i won't have to bother you with the blasting!
hmmm, if we can't handle it i might have to take you up on that offer next time i am headed to foxwoods. :)
hmmm, if we can't handle it i might have to take you up on that offer next time i am headed to foxwoods. :)
| Tobey | 12-08-2004 12:28 PM |
i've done some searching and found info on biasill from dupont, but i can't find anyone that sells the stuff!
| jac04 | 12-08-2004 01:56 PM |
You can also use other types of media. I have used the Biasill sand on steel and stainless steel and it leaves a very smooth but satin finish. As a matter of fact, I don't even wear gloves most of the time when blasting with the Biasill sand - that's how gentle it is. You can try glass beads, however I don't have experience with it. You can also try baking soda. Try Robbin's Auto Parts in Portsmouth - they may have some very fine blasting abrasives. When I lived in Maine, I used to buy sandblasting supplies from them. However, I would stay away from the Black Beauty products that they sell, even the 'extra fine' stuff. It will certainly dull down the finish, but it is very aggressive and the surface will end up feeling like sandpaper. If it is the only stuff you can get then test-blast an area at very low pressure (20 psi) to see what it does.
-Jeff
-Jeff
| Tobey | 12-08-2004 02:50 PM |
awesome jeff, thanks for the tips.
i will see what they have available but can you tell me approximately what grain i am looking for? in my internet searches i see 220 mentioned, do you think that is too light or too coarse for what i am trying to do?
i will see what they have available but can you tell me approximately what grain i am looking for? in my internet searches i see 220 mentioned, do you think that is too light or too coarse for what i am trying to do?
| jac04 | 12-08-2004 05:29 PM |
Tobey- I believe that the Biasill sand is 100 mesh size. If the 220 is referring to the mesh size that the sand will go through, then 220 is a super fine sand - like talcum powder. It may be a little too fine, but you can try it. It's better to be too fine than too coarse.
-Jeff
-Jeff
| Tobey | 12-09-2004 09:26 PM |
i'm going to give it a shot on saturday. my dad says he has some pretty fine sand, he said it's similar to beach sand (how he described it, he didn't know the mesh size).
i will post pics depending on results! :p
i will post pics depending on results! :p
| WRXRgr | 12-10-2004 12:52 AM |
[QUOTE=exhacker]I think that's what he meant.
-x[/QUOTE]
Nope, he meant what he said...the stainless steel is same stuff, all the way thru. There's no special corrosion-resistant surface treatment, or coating on it.
-x[/QUOTE]
Nope, he meant what he said...the stainless steel is same stuff, all the way thru. There's no special corrosion-resistant surface treatment, or coating on it.
| jac04 | 12-12-2004 05:00 PM |
[QUOTE=Tobey]i'm going to give it a shot on saturday. my dad says he has some pretty fine sand, he said it's similar to beach sand (how he described it, he didn't know the mesh size).
i will post pics depending on results! :p[/QUOTE]
Tobey-
How did the sandblasting go?
i will post pics depending on results! :p[/QUOTE]
Tobey-
How did the sandblasting go?
| Tobey | 12-12-2004 06:57 PM |
bah, i was sick all weekend, maybe next weekend!
| abaxter34 | 12-13-2004 12:04 AM |
steel wool will leave a nice matte looking finish too. id suggest it over sandpaper. if you make sure to scuff it in a uniform direction it will give it a nice uniform look. it wont scuff it very deep either so if you ever did want to buff it out it would be fairly easy.
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