| jcroy66 | 03-22-2004 04:07 PM |
JIC spring rates for daily driver/autocross
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OK, after some research, we're leaning towards the JIC FLT A2s. Now we have to decide what spring rates to get.
The car is an 03 WRX sedan and is my daily driver. I drive on northern Ohio roads. We have potholes. I don't want to end up with a permanently-bruised butt.
But I'm not a total wimp, either. :) And we're building the car for STX. We hope to hit at least one ProSolo and one National Tour this year. Maybe even Nationals. I'd like to have a shot at being competitive in the ladies class. So, I'd like to get some opinions, from people who have "been there, done that" BEFORE I shell out money. :)
OK, first off, before anyone suggests it, I have indeed already searched the forum for "JIC". I have also looked at the various online info that many of you have posted for your cars. I found some very useful info. :)
So this is mainly a follow-up discussion. I know Brian Flanagan, in particular, was discussing his spring rates for his daily driver/autocross WRX. And what was bearable with the JICs. So, Brian, have you settled on which spring rates were a happy middle ground?
Also, any other suggestions from anyone else? Right now, the salesguy we're dealing with is recommending either 8k/8k, 9k/9k, or 10k/10k. I know a number of you have different spring rates front vs rear. This guy was recommending that we get the same spring rates front/rear and play with RSB and FSB settings instead. Any suggestions/comments/etc about the positives/negatives?
So, suggestions from the Peanut Gallery about what spring rates will be bearable with the JICs?
Thanks in advance for any help!!
FWIW, our summer tires will be MXs for the first month or so of the season, then we'll be switching to 225/45/17 Azenis. Our winter tires are currently RE-92s, but will be snows next winter.
The car is an 03 WRX sedan and is my daily driver. I drive on northern Ohio roads. We have potholes. I don't want to end up with a permanently-bruised butt.
But I'm not a total wimp, either. :) And we're building the car for STX. We hope to hit at least one ProSolo and one National Tour this year. Maybe even Nationals. I'd like to have a shot at being competitive in the ladies class. So, I'd like to get some opinions, from people who have "been there, done that" BEFORE I shell out money. :)
OK, first off, before anyone suggests it, I have indeed already searched the forum for "JIC". I have also looked at the various online info that many of you have posted for your cars. I found some very useful info. :)
So this is mainly a follow-up discussion. I know Brian Flanagan, in particular, was discussing his spring rates for his daily driver/autocross WRX. And what was bearable with the JICs. So, Brian, have you settled on which spring rates were a happy middle ground?
Also, any other suggestions from anyone else? Right now, the salesguy we're dealing with is recommending either 8k/8k, 9k/9k, or 10k/10k. I know a number of you have different spring rates front vs rear. This guy was recommending that we get the same spring rates front/rear and play with RSB and FSB settings instead. Any suggestions/comments/etc about the positives/negatives?
So, suggestions from the Peanut Gallery about what spring rates will be bearable with the JICs?
Thanks in advance for any help!!
FWIW, our summer tires will be MXs for the first month or so of the season, then we'll be switching to 225/45/17 Azenis. Our winter tires are currently RE-92s, but will be snows next winter.
| del105 | 03-22-2004 05:05 PM |
I think a little more spring in the rear is nice.
| MNbiker | 03-22-2004 05:57 PM |
For a no-compromise autox car, I'd run 8K front & 10K rear springs. However, this setup WILL NOT be pleasant as a daily driver. I know - that's how the FLT-A2's on my car are currently set up. :devil:
For a more comfortable everyday ride, you could try 6/7 or 7/8. The JIC's are still kinda bouncy on some surfaces, but the lower spring rates will make things more bearable.
IMHO - even front/rear spring rates work really well for a track setup, but a higher rear rate is preferabe for autox.
-Steve
[EDIT] If you want to experiment with springs rates, DON'T buy the JIC springs! Their prices are outrageous.:rolleyes: You can pick up 2.5" ID Eibach ERS or Hypercoil springs in the correct lengths (8" F/R for old models, 8" F / 10?" R for the new long-stroke models) a lot cheaper. BTW - I have some extra 7K & 6K 8" JIC springs I'd sell cheap! [/EDIT]
For a more comfortable everyday ride, you could try 6/7 or 7/8. The JIC's are still kinda bouncy on some surfaces, but the lower spring rates will make things more bearable.
IMHO - even front/rear spring rates work really well for a track setup, but a higher rear rate is preferabe for autox.
-Steve
[EDIT] If you want to experiment with springs rates, DON'T buy the JIC springs! Their prices are outrageous.:rolleyes: You can pick up 2.5" ID Eibach ERS or Hypercoil springs in the correct lengths (8" F/R for old models, 8" F / 10?" R for the new long-stroke models) a lot cheaper. BTW - I have some extra 7K & 6K 8" JIC springs I'd sell cheap! [/EDIT]
| spidey02wrx | 03-22-2004 09:18 PM |
I have had the 10K/10K setup for nearly a year now. The car rarely sees the street., basically to/from events and the occasional weekend jaunt. Stiff as hell. Not a great street sus. but performs very well at auto-x/track days. I'm thinking about going higher with the rates sometime down the road.
| trhoppe | 03-22-2004 11:55 PM |
Same opinion here. I've got 8/10 and its pretty brutal for the street. For Miranda, who has a #1 street/#2 autox/#3 track STi, I'm recommending 6/5 with big swaybars. On the STi you don't need a equal or higher rear rate IMHO because of the diff. The car has NO problems transitioning to oversteer/neutral in the middle of the turn unlike the WRX. The bigger rear bar will do plenty for turn in. In the WRX, I think a 6/7 would be a good rate.
We're going to try GC sleeves on the stock STi shocks. Since the STI pink springs are ~250lb and work well on the STi, I think the stock STi shocks should be able to handle the 330lb (6K)/285lb (5K) rates just fine.
-Tom
We're going to try GC sleeves on the stock STi shocks. Since the STI pink springs are ~250lb and work well on the STi, I think the stock STi shocks should be able to handle the 330lb (6K)/285lb (5K) rates just fine.
-Tom
| lo-buck | 03-23-2004 02:05 PM |
10/10 is nice. i think 8/10 would be better for street tires (stx). both will provide good oversteer.
-spenc
-spenc
| elgorey | 03-23-2004 04:40 PM |
For daily driving, I wouldnt go anything stiffer than 6k in the front on a subaru. I would do 6k/7k.
Its very stiff (girlfriend complains) but not brutal.
(btw Spenc, wheelrates on Subarus are very different than on Hondas. 6k=330lb on my WRX was dramatically stiffer than RJ's 600 lb springs on his integra0
Its very stiff (girlfriend complains) but not brutal.
(btw Spenc, wheelrates on Subarus are very different than on Hondas. 6k=330lb on my WRX was dramatically stiffer than RJ's 600 lb springs on his integra0
| spidey02wrx | 03-23-2004 04:41 PM |
spenc is my co-driver/lackey at many events so he knows what the 10K rates feel like. :D
| Orion | 03-24-2004 07:17 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by MNbiker [/i]
[B]
[EDIT] If you want to experiment with springs rates, DON'T buy the JIC springs! Their prices are outrageous.:rolleyes: You can pick up 2.5" ID Eibach ERS or Hypercoil springs in the correct lengths (8" F/R for old models, 8" F / 10?" R for the new long-stroke models) a lot cheaper. BTW - I have some extra 7K & 6K 8" JIC springs I'd sell cheap! [/EDIT] [/B][/QUOTE]
Just did a little measuring on my new JIC's that showed up today. The rears are 225mm (~9") in length, the ID is 62mm which is darn near 2.5"
I have a Truechoice catalog that lists the Eibach ERS's and the only 9" lengths have a 2.25" ID.
Needless to say, I'm bummed right now.:( I was hoping to have them on the car on Friday with different rears. Heck, JIC only makes the 225's up to 6kg.
[B]
[EDIT] If you want to experiment with springs rates, DON'T buy the JIC springs! Their prices are outrageous.:rolleyes: You can pick up 2.5" ID Eibach ERS or Hypercoil springs in the correct lengths (8" F/R for old models, 8" F / 10?" R for the new long-stroke models) a lot cheaper. BTW - I have some extra 7K & 6K 8" JIC springs I'd sell cheap! [/EDIT] [/B][/QUOTE]
Just did a little measuring on my new JIC's that showed up today. The rears are 225mm (~9") in length, the ID is 62mm which is darn near 2.5"
I have a Truechoice catalog that lists the Eibach ERS's and the only 9" lengths have a 2.25" ID.
Needless to say, I'm bummed right now.:( I was hoping to have them on the car on Friday with different rears. Heck, JIC only makes the 225's up to 6kg.
| afpdl | 03-24-2004 07:52 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Orion[/i]
[B] Just did a little measuring on my new JIC's that showed up today. The rears are 225mm (~9") in length, the ID is 62mm which is darn near 2.5"
I have a Truechoice catalog that lists the Eibach ERS's and the only 9" lengths have a 2.25" ID.
Needless to say, I'm bummed right now.:( I was hoping to have them on the car on Friday with different rears. Heck, JIC only makes the 225's up to 6kg. [/B][/QUOTE] You could order some helper springs for the rear and go with an 8 inch spring.
[B] Just did a little measuring on my new JIC's that showed up today. The rears are 225mm (~9") in length, the ID is 62mm which is darn near 2.5"
I have a Truechoice catalog that lists the Eibach ERS's and the only 9" lengths have a 2.25" ID.
Needless to say, I'm bummed right now.:( I was hoping to have them on the car on Friday with different rears. Heck, JIC only makes the 225's up to 6kg. [/B][/QUOTE] You could order some helper springs for the rear and go with an 8 inch spring.
| Chromer | 03-24-2004 09:55 PM |
Hmmmm, you can probably put a 10" spring in there but you'll have to adjust your rate down a bit since it'll be compressed down to 9" before the car puts any load on it...
[url]http://www.bluecoilspring.com/coil-over.htm[/url]
(I'm not a customer, just saw these guys mentioned once on Special Stage and bookmarked the site). They might be able to custom-wind 9" springs too...
[url]http://www.bluecoilspring.com/coil-over.htm[/url]
(I'm not a customer, just saw these guys mentioned once on Special Stage and bookmarked the site). They might be able to custom-wind 9" springs too...
| Fastech | 03-24-2004 11:19 PM |
I have been all over the place with spring rates. The 7k/10k combo was my fave for autocross but sucked on the street, even for someone who doesn't mind a stiff car. Strangely, potholes were fine but small undulations (nearly invisible to the nekkid eye) had you bouncing :banana: like a friggin' trampoline!
I have gone back to my 350#F/450#R eibach springs (6.5/8k? Not sure of the conversion) and am pretty happy. Not too bad on the street, and I don't feel like I'm giving up much on the A/X course either. I ran 220+ miles at L'il Talladega last weekend, and it felt great there too after softening up the big rear bar, shocks, and removing some of my big, fatass toe-out!
Your butt tolerance may vary, though...
Brian Flanagan
Tread Removal Expert:disco:
I have gone back to my 350#F/450#R eibach springs (6.5/8k? Not sure of the conversion) and am pretty happy. Not too bad on the street, and I don't feel like I'm giving up much on the A/X course either. I ran 220+ miles at L'il Talladega last weekend, and it felt great there too after softening up the big rear bar, shocks, and removing some of my big, fatass toe-out!
Your butt tolerance may vary, though...
Brian Flanagan
Tread Removal Expert:disco:
| trhoppe | 03-25-2004 09:26 AM |
[quote]Your butt tolerance may vary, though...[/quote]
:lol: :lol:
-Tom
:lol: :lol:
-Tom
| FuJi K | 03-25-2004 10:10 AM |
How do you guys do that #k coversion into #lbs.? I was thinking that 8k/7k f/r wasn't that stiff at all, maybe stiff like the STi I was assuming.
| trhoppe | 03-25-2004 10:28 AM |
kg/mm X 56 = lb/in
8K = ~450
7K = ~400
-Tom
8K = ~450
7K = ~400
-Tom
| Prestige Motorsports | 03-25-2004 10:34 AM |
I have what was probably the first set of FLT-A2 Race specs sold in the US. They were originally on my RS, and were converted over to fit the WRX. The Spring rates are 8f/8r. It was fine on the RS, but I am going to go to a 10k rear spring now on the WRX. The car just doesn't want to rotate quite enough on an autocross course. For road racing or daily, I would recommend staying with the same rates front and rear.
| trhoppe | 03-25-2004 10:40 AM |
Looky there, Kent agrees with me on something else :p
-Tom
-Tom
| jmott | 03-25-2004 12:07 PM |
One thing you can do to get away with really stiff springs for racing but still be streetable, is get some soft sidewall crap tires for the street.
stiff springs + azenis = holy crap!
stiff springs + re92s = no big deal
stiff springs + azenis = holy crap!
stiff springs + re92s = no big deal
| DrBiggly | 03-25-2004 01:25 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by jmott[/i]
[B] One thing you can do to get away with really stiff springs for racing but still be streetable, is get some soft sidewall crap tires for the street.
stiff springs + azenis = holy crap!
stiff springs + re92s = no big deal [/B][/QUOTE]
I rode in Tom's car one day on RE92s and was like "I don't get it, what's the big deal with huge spring rates? Doesn't feel that bad to me" but then realized the tires he was on... :D
[B] One thing you can do to get away with really stiff springs for racing but still be streetable, is get some soft sidewall crap tires for the street.
stiff springs + azenis = holy crap!
stiff springs + re92s = no big deal [/B][/QUOTE]
I rode in Tom's car one day on RE92s and was like "I don't get it, what's the big deal with huge spring rates? Doesn't feel that bad to me" but then realized the tires he was on... :D
| jcroy66 | 03-25-2004 01:31 PM |
You guys have been exceptionally helpful! Thank you very much!! :)
After the recent discussion on tires making a big difference in how the ride actually [B]feels[/B], my husband has finally talked me into starting out with the 8/10 springs.
I figure if it's just unbearable, then at that point, we can either:
1. Buy springs with lower spring rates. If we do that, we'd likely keep the high spring rate springs too and just switch to them for the National-level events.
2. Just switch tires before and after events. Hey, we had 3 sets of tires (street, race, and winter) for the Celica for years, I guess we could do that for the WRX too. Even if we are in a "street tire" class. :p
Anyway, thank you all for your help!! Mucho appreciated!!
After the recent discussion on tires making a big difference in how the ride actually [B]feels[/B], my husband has finally talked me into starting out with the 8/10 springs.
I figure if it's just unbearable, then at that point, we can either:
1. Buy springs with lower spring rates. If we do that, we'd likely keep the high spring rate springs too and just switch to them for the National-level events.
2. Just switch tires before and after events. Hey, we had 3 sets of tires (street, race, and winter) for the Celica for years, I guess we could do that for the WRX too. Even if we are in a "street tire" class. :p
Anyway, thank you all for your help!! Mucho appreciated!!
| trhoppe | 03-25-2004 02:08 PM |
I think you find that all the people that do national level events have a set of autox and a set of street tires for their ST* class cars.
-Tom
-Tom
| MNbiker | 03-26-2004 06:40 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by trhoppe [/i]
[B]I think you find that all the people that do national level events have a set of autox and a set of street tires for their ST* class cars.
-Tom [/B][/QUOTE]
'cept for those of us whose cars have become trailer queens!:p
-Steve
p.s. of course, I STILL have 3 sets if wheels/tires!:lol: :lol:
[B]I think you find that all the people that do national level events have a set of autox and a set of street tires for their ST* class cars.
-Tom [/B][/QUOTE]
'cept for those of us whose cars have become trailer queens!:p
-Steve
p.s. of course, I STILL have 3 sets if wheels/tires!:lol: :lol:
| trojan9x | 03-26-2004 07:42 AM |
Hell, I have 4 sets of wheels and I'm in STS with my RS. :lol:
| samwY | 04-11-2004 01:52 AM |
any thoughts on a 7/6 spring rate ?
| MNbiker | 04-11-2004 08:19 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by samwY [/i]
[B]any thoughts on a 7/6 spring rate ? [/B][/QUOTE]
I like 7/7 better. For general use, I'm a proponent of even spring rates.
-Steve
[B]any thoughts on a 7/6 spring rate ? [/B][/QUOTE]
I like 7/7 better. For general use, I'm a proponent of even spring rates.
-Steve
| makofoto | 04-11-2004 01:22 PM |
Do the dampeners you guys are using not allow for (quick) adjustment ... that allows one to go softer for street driving ... or with the stiff springs ... it just doesn't make that much difference on your backside ?
| afpdl | 04-11-2004 01:32 PM |
:confused: Each strut has a knob with 15 adjustments from stiff to soft. It adjust as quick as you can get under the car and turn them.
| makofoto | 04-11-2004 01:37 PM |
Yah ... but from what I'm hearing/reading ... going soft on the dampeners doesn't make a stiffly sprung car more live-able ... right?
| afpdl | 04-11-2004 01:43 PM |
It changes the ride but it depends on what you call livable. I have no problems on my 7k/5k set up on full stiff or soft, some cant stand a 5k/5k set up. And I know of one guy with a 10k/9k set up who only wanted to go stiffer on his daily driver.
| DrBiggly | 04-11-2004 01:45 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by afpdl[/i]
[B] It changes the ride but it depends on what you call livable. I have no problems on my 7k/5k set up on full stiff or soft, some cant stand a 5k/5k set up. [/B][/QUOTE]
I think what he's saying is it depends on how much of a wimp you are when it comes to spring rates. Ride in a friend's car with xx spring rates and make your own determination of if you could live with it from there. Or buy a set and try it; if you don't like it then throw it in the For Sale forum. :)
We can't determine what you like/want; only give some advice. What more do you want us to tell you? :confused:
[B] It changes the ride but it depends on what you call livable. I have no problems on my 7k/5k set up on full stiff or soft, some cant stand a 5k/5k set up. [/B][/QUOTE]
I think what he's saying is it depends on how much of a wimp you are when it comes to spring rates. Ride in a friend's car with xx spring rates and make your own determination of if you could live with it from there. Or buy a set and try it; if you don't like it then throw it in the For Sale forum. :)
We can't determine what you like/want; only give some advice. What more do you want us to tell you? :confused:
| makofoto | 04-11-2004 02:01 PM |
I guess the older one gets ... the less discomfort one is willing to put up with ... and I'm pretty "mature" ... :lol:
Maybe I will have to wait for the Prodrive Active Suspension due out in June ... O.K. for SM ...
Maybe I will have to wait for the Prodrive Active Suspension due out in June ... O.K. for SM ...
| FSelekler | 04-11-2004 11:02 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by makofoto [/i]
[B]Yah ... but from what I'm hearing/reading ... going soft on the dampeners doesn't make a stiffly sprung car more live-able ... right? [/B][/QUOTE]
There is always a sweet spot with dampening adjustments given the spring rates. Going too soft sometimes can increase bounciness because there isn't enough pressure applied through the valve to reduce spring oscillation or at least not quickly enough.
There is more to this than just spring rates. If you are concerned about daily ride, the appropriote dealer should be able to have the unit built according to your priorities. Don't judge a system just by its spring rates.
Also, what the Croy family is getting is not something that you want independent of spring rates. They have different purposes, hence specs.
[B]Yah ... but from what I'm hearing/reading ... going soft on the dampeners doesn't make a stiffly sprung car more live-able ... right? [/B][/QUOTE]
There is always a sweet spot with dampening adjustments given the spring rates. Going too soft sometimes can increase bounciness because there isn't enough pressure applied through the valve to reduce spring oscillation or at least not quickly enough.
There is more to this than just spring rates. If you are concerned about daily ride, the appropriote dealer should be able to have the unit built according to your priorities. Don't judge a system just by its spring rates.
Also, what the Croy family is getting is not something that you want independent of spring rates. They have different purposes, hence specs.
| JenisonWRX | 04-12-2004 12:22 PM |
I run 12/10 with azenis on my daily ...
its bouncy but I dont care cause she is just so much fun to drive
its bouncy but I dont care cause she is just so much fun to drive
| jcroy66 | 05-01-2004 02:51 PM |
Update:
Well, the JICs are now installed!! :) We went with the 8/10 rates. Right now, it's set to full-soft and after our initial drive (about 10-15 minutes, both street and highway), it seems much more streetable than I'd expected. It actually seems less harsh than the H&R coilovers we used to have on my BMW 325i that was my daily driver for years.
Of course, we'll see later what it's like on full-hard. :)
As for performance, I didn't get to drive (my "mechanic"/hubby did), but from the passenger-seat, it seemed very nice - like what a car is SUPPOSED to feel like... :D
Phil says she definitely oversteers right now, so we'll probably add a FSB within the next few weeks.
Right now the front sits about 13.25" from center of the hub to the fender and the rear is about 13.5". That's a little bit lower than where I think we want it to end up so we'll probably raise it a little bit.
Anyway, wanted to thank you all for your help!! :)
Well, the JICs are now installed!! :) We went with the 8/10 rates. Right now, it's set to full-soft and after our initial drive (about 10-15 minutes, both street and highway), it seems much more streetable than I'd expected. It actually seems less harsh than the H&R coilovers we used to have on my BMW 325i that was my daily driver for years.
Of course, we'll see later what it's like on full-hard. :)
As for performance, I didn't get to drive (my "mechanic"/hubby did), but from the passenger-seat, it seemed very nice - like what a car is SUPPOSED to feel like... :D
Phil says she definitely oversteers right now, so we'll probably add a FSB within the next few weeks.
Right now the front sits about 13.25" from center of the hub to the fender and the rear is about 13.5". That's a little bit lower than where I think we want it to end up so we'll probably raise it a little bit.
Anyway, wanted to thank you all for your help!! :)
| FuJi K | 05-01-2004 07:04 PM |
What do you guys think about running 12k front and rear on GF4? I know it'l be stiff but it should work great allowing lots of traction depending on type of tire. Running at track events is my goal.
| Orion | 05-01-2004 07:10 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by jcroy66 [/i]
[B]Update:
Well, the JICs are now installed!! :) We went with the 8/10 rates. Right now, it's set to full-soft and after our initial drive (about 10-15 minutes, both street and highway), it seems much more streetable than I'd expected. It actually seems less harsh than the H&R coilovers we used to have on my BMW 325i that was my daily driver for years.
Of course, we'll see later what it's like on full-hard. :)
[/B][/QUOTE]
what alignment specs did you put on it? i had my rears standing straight up and the darn thing wanted to snap around on every cloverleaf highway ramp!!! it was a dream on course though.
i had 8.5/10 until last night. the 10's were a 10" spring since no one makes a 10k, 9", 2.5" ID spring. i had to use a temp fix until my 9k 9's showed up.
we'll see how it goes in Dayton next week...
[B]Update:
Well, the JICs are now installed!! :) We went with the 8/10 rates. Right now, it's set to full-soft and after our initial drive (about 10-15 minutes, both street and highway), it seems much more streetable than I'd expected. It actually seems less harsh than the H&R coilovers we used to have on my BMW 325i that was my daily driver for years.
Of course, we'll see later what it's like on full-hard. :)
[/B][/QUOTE]
what alignment specs did you put on it? i had my rears standing straight up and the darn thing wanted to snap around on every cloverleaf highway ramp!!! it was a dream on course though.
i had 8.5/10 until last night. the 10's were a 10" spring since no one makes a 10k, 9", 2.5" ID spring. i had to use a temp fix until my 9k 9's showed up.
we'll see how it goes in Dayton next week...
| MNbiker | 05-01-2004 07:42 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by jcroy66 [/i]
[B]Of course, we'll see later what it's like on full-hard. :)
[/B][/QUOTE]
Glad to hear it's working out so far. You defeinitely DON'T want to run the struts on full hard. I'd recommend starting with something like 5 clicks from full soft in the front and 7 clicks from full soft in the rear for autox. The JIC dampers get pretty stiff after the first few clicks.
-Steve
[B]Of course, we'll see later what it's like on full-hard. :)
[/B][/QUOTE]
Glad to hear it's working out so far. You defeinitely DON'T want to run the struts on full hard. I'd recommend starting with something like 5 clicks from full soft in the front and 7 clicks from full soft in the rear for autox. The JIC dampers get pretty stiff after the first few clicks.
-Steve
| trhoppe | 05-01-2004 09:33 PM |
[quote] Phil says she definitely oversteers right now, so we'll probably add a FSB within the next few weeks. [/quote]
Expect more oversteer then ;)
-Tom
Expect more oversteer then ;)
-Tom
| jcroy66 | 05-01-2004 09:52 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by MNbiker[/i]
[B] I'd recommend starting with something like 5 clicks from full soft in the front and 7 clicks from full soft in the rear for autox. The JIC dampers get pretty stiff after the first few clicks.[/B][/QUOTE]
OK, cool, thanks for the advice. I'll give those settings a try tomorrow.
[B] I'd recommend starting with something like 5 clicks from full soft in the front and 7 clicks from full soft in the rear for autox. The JIC dampers get pretty stiff after the first few clicks.[/B][/QUOTE]
OK, cool, thanks for the advice. I'll give those settings a try tomorrow.
| jcroy66 | 05-02-2004 10:34 AM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by jcroy66[/i]
[B] I'll give those settings a try tomorrow. [/B][/QUOTE]
No chance to try today. After we got to the event site, we found out they decided to cancel the event because of rain... :( :furious:
Alignment is merely eye-balled for now. I'll be calling tomorrow to set up an appointment for a formal alignment. I'm thinking that we'll probably work with the shop to set it to "ideal" autocross settings. Then, based on the recent threads about more negative camber leading to toe out, I was thinking we could set the camber plates to less negative camber, until the toe was 0. If we record the locations on the camber plates for the 2 "modes", we can switch between them for more negative camber/toe out for autocross versus maximizing tire life and highway stability by running 0 toe (and a little less negative camber) on the street.
Does that sound like a reasonable plan of attack to you folks?
Tom, are you saying that a FSB would increase oversteer? I was under the impression that adding a stiffer (and more adjustable) FSB would allow us more leeway in reducing the amount of oversteer. Right now, we have an adjustable RSB that is set on its "loosest" setting and the stock FSB. (I'm pretty much a dunce when it comes to physics, so please forgive me if this is a stupid question. I think my father (an astrophysicist) got all the physics talent in the family. :p )
[B] I'll give those settings a try tomorrow. [/B][/QUOTE]
No chance to try today. After we got to the event site, we found out they decided to cancel the event because of rain... :( :furious:
Alignment is merely eye-balled for now. I'll be calling tomorrow to set up an appointment for a formal alignment. I'm thinking that we'll probably work with the shop to set it to "ideal" autocross settings. Then, based on the recent threads about more negative camber leading to toe out, I was thinking we could set the camber plates to less negative camber, until the toe was 0. If we record the locations on the camber plates for the 2 "modes", we can switch between them for more negative camber/toe out for autocross versus maximizing tire life and highway stability by running 0 toe (and a little less negative camber) on the street.
Does that sound like a reasonable plan of attack to you folks?
Tom, are you saying that a FSB would increase oversteer? I was under the impression that adding a stiffer (and more adjustable) FSB would allow us more leeway in reducing the amount of oversteer. Right now, we have an adjustable RSB that is set on its "loosest" setting and the stock FSB. (I'm pretty much a dunce when it comes to physics, so please forgive me if this is a stupid question. I think my father (an astrophysicist) got all the physics talent in the family. :p )
| PsychoSoldier | 05-02-2004 02:23 PM |
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Orion [/i]
[B]Just did a little measuring on my new JIC's that showed up today. The rears are 225mm (~9") in length, the ID is 62mm which is darn near 2.5"
I have a Truechoice catalog that lists the Eibach ERS's and the only 9" lengths have a 2.25" ID.
Needless to say, I'm bummed right now.:( I was hoping to have them on the car on Friday with different rears. Heck, JIC only makes the 225's up to 6kg. [/B][/QUOTE]
KW sells 60mm race springs that would probably fit. H&R and Eibach have 60mm springs also, you just have to find a US dealer who will sell them.
[URL=http://www.kwsuspension.de/e_version/competition/competition.php]KW Race Springs[/URL]
[URL=http://motorsport.hrsprings.com/60mm.html]H&R 60mm race springs[/URL]
Eibach doesn't have a direct link that I've been able to find.
[B]Just did a little measuring on my new JIC's that showed up today. The rears are 225mm (~9") in length, the ID is 62mm which is darn near 2.5"
I have a Truechoice catalog that lists the Eibach ERS's and the only 9" lengths have a 2.25" ID.
Needless to say, I'm bummed right now.:( I was hoping to have them on the car on Friday with different rears. Heck, JIC only makes the 225's up to 6kg. [/B][/QUOTE]
KW sells 60mm race springs that would probably fit. H&R and Eibach have 60mm springs also, you just have to find a US dealer who will sell them.
[URL=http://www.kwsuspension.de/e_version/competition/competition.php]KW Race Springs[/URL]
[URL=http://motorsport.hrsprings.com/60mm.html]H&R 60mm race springs[/URL]
Eibach doesn't have a direct link that I've been able to find.
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