| ASpec818 | 07-01-2006 01:25 PM |
performed the sandpaper method on polishing my 03 headlights and now problems!
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I had some jdm sti projectors for my bugeye rex. The inside of the headlights were hazed with some sort of film and it was nearly impossible to polish it off using meguiars plastx. So i went ahead and used the sandpaper method of trying to sand it out. now the lens is really hazed and cloudy looking with scratches. Did I totally screw up my headlight lens or can this still be saved? i know I will need some sort of professional service to revive the lenses probably.
| kennyvb | 07-01-2006 02:34 PM |
what grit did you start with? you'll need to work up to finer grit (ie. 600->800->1000->1200, etc)
| turbo tecnica | 07-01-2006 02:36 PM |
^ ^ +1. What grit did you use? Please don't say something like 150...
| WhiteFox | 07-01-2006 03:08 PM |
600 is still too course, I would have started with 1000, and worked up to close to 2000, then polish. Any kinda of polish will work, I use mothers aluminum polish on everything (except paint).
| IronMonkeyL255 | 07-01-2006 03:09 PM |
On the outside of my lights, I went 400 > 600 > 1500 > rubbing compound.
[i]edit: I started at 400 b/c I had 16 years of oxidation to remove.[/i]
Using rubbing compound at the end is what gets rid of the haze. even after the really fine grits, my lenses looked frosted until I polished them.
[i]edit: I started at 400 b/c I had 16 years of oxidation to remove.[/i]
Using rubbing compound at the end is what gets rid of the haze. even after the really fine grits, my lenses looked frosted until I polished them.
| taerron | 07-01-2006 04:26 PM |
why are the insides hazed up rather than the outside? sounds like it could be that they were opened at one point and not sealed correctly..... or using higher wattage bulbs could also discolor the inside.
| runwrxrun | 07-01-2006 05:26 PM |
Sorry for highjacking but can this also be applied to the taillights? Its not cloudy, more like not shiney...
| Yoo Shin | 07-01-2006 05:50 PM |
huh, interesting. I didn't think you could actually sand out a haze on head/tail light covers. I've got a little scuffing on my tails. Wonder if I can get it out w/ this same process. Sanding, at any grit, sounds like it'd be ruff. Should I try a scratchx first? Maybe I can snap a quick pick and I bet you've got the same "haze" or scuff look.
| IronMonkeyL255 | 07-01-2006 05:52 PM |
Wet sanding is a bit better on whatever your sanding.
As long as you use a high enough grit and work your way up to polishing, you should be fine.
As long as you use a high enough grit and work your way up to polishing, you should be fine.
| Kean | 07-02-2006 12:15 AM |
[QUOTE=Yoo Shin]huh, interesting. I didn't think you could actually sand out a haze on head/tail light covers. I've got a little scuffing on my tails. Wonder if I can get it out w/ this same process. Sanding, at any grit, sounds like it'd be ruff. Should I try a scratchx first? Maybe I can snap a quick pick and I bet you've got the same "haze" or scuff look.[/QUOTE] If you're ever unsure, it's always better to start off with a less aggressive method (i.e. a plastic polish). Personally, I think some folks in these forums tend to make drastic recommendations when a less harsh/safer method would probably work just fine. Unfortunately, this sometimes leads to inexperienced members ruining their projects. .....and the result is a thread like this.
| pleue | 07-02-2006 08:03 PM |
from my understanding youre not supposed to touch the inside of your headlights, let alone take some sandpaper to them. I would finish it up wetsanding to 2000 or maybe less, then rubbing compound or plastic polish and hope for the best. Either that or get some new lenses.
| DrD | 07-02-2006 10:06 PM |
[QUOTE=runwrxrun]Sorry for highjacking but can this also be applied to the taillights? Its not cloudy, more like not shiney...[/QUOTE]
plastic polish works very well to clean up the tails and make them shine - same deal for the headlights. It just takes time (and elbow grease) to get them perfect. They would have to be in really, really bad shape to warrant sanding them down...
plastic polish works very well to clean up the tails and make them shine - same deal for the headlights. It just takes time (and elbow grease) to get them perfect. They would have to be in really, really bad shape to warrant sanding them down...
| runwrxrun | 07-02-2006 11:20 PM |
Yeah, they are in pretty bad shape since they weren't on a car most of its life to begin with. Scuffs and hazes like mine aren't going away since they can be felt with your fingernail
| DrD | 07-03-2006 07:25 AM |
you can polish out scratches, etc. on plastic lenses with plastic polish - the only time I would consider sanding over plastic polish would be when the lens is heavily oxidized (like you see on older headlights on some cars)
Also - I think many people don't use polishing compound properly - you don't need too much (if you have too much on the polishing cloth, it hinders the material removal process) and you need to use pretty firm pressure as you polish.
Also - I think many people don't use polishing compound properly - you don't need too much (if you have too much on the polishing cloth, it hinders the material removal process) and you need to use pretty firm pressure as you polish.
| hondahata | 07-03-2006 07:52 AM |
[QUOTE=Kean]If you're ever unsure, it's always better to start off with a less aggressive method (i.e. a plastic polish). Personally, I think some folks in these forums tend to make drastic recommendations when a less harsh/safer method would probably work just fine. Unfortunately, this sometimes leads to inexperienced members ruining their projects. .....and the result is a thread like this.[/QUOTE]
Agreed. I read a thread that was very detailed about how to do this. When probably all I needed to do to start with was just use a polishing compound, simply because the were not that badly hazed. 1.Your not supposed to be sanding the inside. 2. You have to have some balls. When you start wet sanding (simply sand by hand under running water), its going to look fugly. It is mandatory that you start with a fine grit sandpaper, i.e. 2000. Then you must work your way down slowly, say 1800, 1200, 800, 600. Yes, its work. I couldn't find the 2000 grit anywhere, and I went to Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace....all the big boys. Girlfriend says go to Walmart, because she tired of seeing the headlights in the sink. "Walmart?" She doesn't know ****z. Guess what....Walmart had it. :rolleyes: Not until you get to 600 grit will you start to see finished type results. I breathed a big sigh of relief, and that is just getting back close to where they were. I then used to polishing compound(any will do) and they looked very decent. Remember, once you start, there is no turning back.
Agreed. I read a thread that was very detailed about how to do this. When probably all I needed to do to start with was just use a polishing compound, simply because the were not that badly hazed. 1.Your not supposed to be sanding the inside. 2. You have to have some balls. When you start wet sanding (simply sand by hand under running water), its going to look fugly. It is mandatory that you start with a fine grit sandpaper, i.e. 2000. Then you must work your way down slowly, say 1800, 1200, 800, 600. Yes, its work. I couldn't find the 2000 grit anywhere, and I went to Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace....all the big boys. Girlfriend says go to Walmart, because she tired of seeing the headlights in the sink. "Walmart?" She doesn't know ****z. Guess what....Walmart had it. :rolleyes: Not until you get to 600 grit will you start to see finished type results. I breathed a big sigh of relief, and that is just getting back close to where they were. I then used to polishing compound(any will do) and they looked very decent. Remember, once you start, there is no turning back.
| WhiteFox | 07-03-2006 09:47 AM |
[QUOTE=hondahata]It is mandatory that you start with a fine grit sandpaper, i.e. 2000. Then you must work your way down slowly, say 1800, 1200, 800, 600. [/QUOTE]
I think you have this backwards, you should be working your way up to finer grits.
I think you have this backwards, you should be working your way up to finer grits.
| k00ky | 07-04-2006 04:59 AM |
[QUOTE=hondahata]Agreed. I read a thread that was very detailed about how to do this. When probably all I needed to do to start with was just use a polishing compound, simply because the were not that badly hazed. 1.Your not supposed to be sanding the inside. 2. You have to have some balls. When you start wet sanding (simply sand by hand under running water), its going to look fugly. It is mandatory that you start with a fine grit sandpaper, i.e. 2000. Then you must work your way down slowly, say 1800, 1200, 800, 600. Yes, its work. I couldn't find the 2000 grit anywhere, and I went to Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace....all the big boys. Girlfriend says go to Walmart, because she tired of seeing the headlights in the sink. "Walmart?" She doesn't know ****z. Guess what....Walmart had it. :rolleyes: Not until you get to 600 grit will you start to see finished type results. I breathed a big sigh of relief, and that is just getting back close to where they were. I then used to polishing compound(any will do) and they looked very decent. Remember, once you start, there is no turning back.[/QUOTE]
Advice like this is dangerous, you have it arse about.....
Advice like this is dangerous, you have it arse about.....
| RS drifter | 07-04-2006 10:04 AM |
[QUOTE=WhiteFox]I think you have this backwards, you should be working your way up to finer grits.[/QUOTE]
+++111
+++111
| hondahata | 07-21-2006 03:24 PM |
[QUOTE=WhiteFox]I think you have this backwards, you should be working your way up to finer grits.[/QUOTE]
Yes....sorry gents.
Yes....sorry gents.
| essteaeye | 07-21-2006 04:23 PM |
you sanded the inside of the lamps?
:lol:
throw them out!
:lol:
throw them out!
| MooNTanG | 07-21-2006 05:14 PM |
I used
1. 800grit (wet)
2. 1000grit (wet)
3. then couple of coats w/ metal polish
on OEM bugeye lights work like a charm :D
1. 800grit (wet)
2. 1000grit (wet)
3. then couple of coats w/ metal polish
on OEM bugeye lights work like a charm :D
| blacktalon606 | 07-21-2006 05:18 PM |
You guys have guts. I don't really care to sand on my headlights. I usually just use some ultrafine buffing compound and an electric buffer. I know that is similar to sanding... but you don't see the scratches. It doens't really take any elbow grease either and they end up clear as a bell. :)
| WhiteFox | 07-21-2006 08:01 PM |
Also don't apply tons of pressure to the sandpaper, and RINSE often!!! If you press too hard, you can create bigger scratches, which you'll spend more time getting out later on, so let the sandpaper do the work. The reason I say to rinse often is that the grits (sand) in the sandpaper will fall out and roll around under the paper making deeper scratches as you sand. Of course this applies mostly to lower grits, but it's good practice to clean your work often to keep your part nice, and prevent that sandpaper from clogging.
| InfamousDX | 07-21-2006 08:38 PM |
Wow... 400grit? That's a bit coarse isn't it. But yea... start higher and keep that **** wet like an 18 year old virgin.
| 4wdrift | 07-23-2006 02:04 PM |
[QUOTE=Kean]If you're ever unsure, it's always better to start off with a less aggressive method (i.e. a plastic polish). Personally, I think some folks in these forums tend to make drastic recommendations when a less harsh/safer method would probably work just fine. Unfortunately, this sometimes leads to inexperienced members ruining their projects. .....and the result is a thread like this.[/QUOTE]
:rolleyes: whatever man.
This forum and the sandpaper advice has been around and working since the
90's and the headlight haze issue has been around for MUCH longer. Guess
what people used before plastic polish? (hint: sandpaper)
Wet sanding works just fine as long as you do not use a grit that is too
course. 1500 on up works just dandy.
:rolleyes: whatever man.
This forum and the sandpaper advice has been around and working since the
90's and the headlight haze issue has been around for MUCH longer. Guess
what people used before plastic polish? (hint: sandpaper)
Wet sanding works just fine as long as you do not use a grit that is too
course. 1500 on up works just dandy.
| Kean | 07-23-2006 05:56 PM |
[QUOTE=4wdrift]:rolleyes: whatever man.
This forum and the sandpaper advice has been around and working since the
90's and the headlight haze issue has been around for MUCH longer. Guess
what people used before plastic polish? (hint: sandpaper)
Wet sanding works just fine as long as you do not use a grit that is too
course. 1500 on up works just dandy.[/QUOTE] ......hmmmm. I'm not sure what you found wrong with my advice. I was merely pointing out that there are less agressive/easier alternatives that [i]may[/i] work just fine (vs. wetsanding). There are several good plastic polishes on the market today that work well at removing haze and fine scratches on headlamp lenses. .....it's not a new concept as people have been using polishes to restore/maintain plastic surfaces (i.e. boats, cars, instruments, planes ,etc.) for many years.
This forum and the sandpaper advice has been around and working since the
90's and the headlight haze issue has been around for MUCH longer. Guess
what people used before plastic polish? (hint: sandpaper)
Wet sanding works just fine as long as you do not use a grit that is too
course. 1500 on up works just dandy.[/QUOTE] ......hmmmm. I'm not sure what you found wrong with my advice. I was merely pointing out that there are less agressive/easier alternatives that [i]may[/i] work just fine (vs. wetsanding). There are several good plastic polishes on the market today that work well at removing haze and fine scratches on headlamp lenses. .....it's not a new concept as people have been using polishes to restore/maintain plastic surfaces (i.e. boats, cars, instruments, planes ,etc.) for many years.
| DrD | 07-23-2006 07:26 PM |
[QUOTE=4wdrift]This forum and the sandpaper advice has been around and working since the 90's and the headlight haze issue has been around for MUCH longer. Guess what people used before plastic polish? (hint: sandpaper)[/quote]
so your view is why bother with the less aggressive approach, even though it fixes the problem 9 times out of 10 for newer cars, and doesn't have much, if any, risk of damaging the lights?
You can't undo the sanding after the light is damaged.
so your view is why bother with the less aggressive approach, even though it fixes the problem 9 times out of 10 for newer cars, and doesn't have much, if any, risk of damaging the lights?
You can't undo the sanding after the light is damaged.
| 4wdrift | 07-24-2006 11:43 PM |
[B]Kean[/B],
I agree with perhaps starting with a less agressive method. However, the point, or view (however you chose to categorize it) is that your statement seemed to imply that many "novices" have ruined their projects as a result of the sandpaper method, thus it has little merit.
I was merely pointing out that although there is a certain degree of risk involved the method is sound.
And for the record, the sanding process is very easy on the arms and shoulders vs. trying to polish out defects with an abrasive liquid using arm pressure.
<--- owned a soft top Wrangler and had to polish out the yellowed and hazed windows more than once.
<--- worked at a body shop in a former life.
[B]DrD[/B],
Less agressive does not equate to easier, and as long as you do not go all the way through the plastic lens it can be recovered fairly easily (with a little time and work). For $hits and giggles, find an old "yellowed" lens and give the polish method a try. Now do the other half using the wetsand method. Question answered.
E.
I agree with perhaps starting with a less agressive method. However, the point, or view (however you chose to categorize it) is that your statement seemed to imply that many "novices" have ruined their projects as a result of the sandpaper method, thus it has little merit.
I was merely pointing out that although there is a certain degree of risk involved the method is sound.
And for the record, the sanding process is very easy on the arms and shoulders vs. trying to polish out defects with an abrasive liquid using arm pressure.
<--- owned a soft top Wrangler and had to polish out the yellowed and hazed windows more than once.
<--- worked at a body shop in a former life.
[B]DrD[/B],
Less agressive does not equate to easier, and as long as you do not go all the way through the plastic lens it can be recovered fairly easily (with a little time and work). For $hits and giggles, find an old "yellowed" lens and give the polish method a try. Now do the other half using the wetsand method. Question answered.
E.
| Kean | 07-25-2006 10:29 AM |
4wdrift,
I'll clarify..... The implication was that some people tend to immediately recommend the most aggressive method when it may not be needed. My suggestion is that people should start off with the less aggressive alternative before moving on to something like wetsanding. I never said that the method was ineffective or not sound. .....only that some people seem to jump the gun without considering other less risky alternatives first (many times without a clear description of the problem or seeing an example of the damage).
I've owned and maintained a variety of different vehicles over the past 22+ years I�ve been a licensed driver. �.used a lot of products and methods too. Plastic polishes are nothing new and they seem to get better as years go by. I�m not dismissing wetsanding as a viable option depending on the severity of the issue.
btw, I also worked at a body shop many years ago. :)
EDIT: the scenario you pitched to DrD is likely a case where you [i]would[/i] want to consider a method like wetsanding. ....too severe for polish to knock out efficiently. .....in other situations wetsanding may be overkill.
I'll clarify..... The implication was that some people tend to immediately recommend the most aggressive method when it may not be needed. My suggestion is that people should start off with the less aggressive alternative before moving on to something like wetsanding. I never said that the method was ineffective or not sound. .....only that some people seem to jump the gun without considering other less risky alternatives first (many times without a clear description of the problem or seeing an example of the damage).
I've owned and maintained a variety of different vehicles over the past 22+ years I�ve been a licensed driver. �.used a lot of products and methods too. Plastic polishes are nothing new and they seem to get better as years go by. I�m not dismissing wetsanding as a viable option depending on the severity of the issue.
btw, I also worked at a body shop many years ago. :)
EDIT: the scenario you pitched to DrD is likely a case where you [i]would[/i] want to consider a method like wetsanding. ....too severe for polish to knock out efficiently. .....in other situations wetsanding may be overkill.
| DrD | 07-25-2006 12:58 PM |
[QUOTE=4wdrift]For $hits and giggles, find an old "yellowed" lens and give the polish method a try. Now do the other half using the wetsand method. Question answered.[/QUOTE]
but we are looking at a light which is relatively new - in that case, the sanding is overkill, and you risk making a mess if you don't know what you are doing - plastic polish is not likely to make things worse than they already are - and if it turns out that sanding is indeed necessary, then trying to polish them initially isn't going to make that any more or less difficult.
but we are looking at a light which is relatively new - in that case, the sanding is overkill, and you risk making a mess if you don't know what you are doing - plastic polish is not likely to make things worse than they already are - and if it turns out that sanding is indeed necessary, then trying to polish them initially isn't going to make that any more or less difficult.
| Chas Metivier | 07-25-2006 11:30 PM |
For what its worth, I have used really fine paper on the outside of the bug eye like 1000 then 1500 then FLITZ IT!! Thats right, That stuff you see on the info commercial on speed TV or what ever the buff ball and polishing compound, seriously, it really works on plastic as well as alluminum and since you use your drill, it take the elbow grease out of the project. The polish they sell is high quality and really fine, my lenses are crystal clear. Just FLITZ IT!!
| 4wdrift | 07-26-2006 11:45 PM |
[QUOTE=Chas Metivier]For what its worth, I have used really fine paper on the outside of the bug eye like 1000 then 1500 then FLITZ IT!! Thats right, That stuff you see on the info commercial on speed TV or what ever the buff ball and polishing compound, seriously, it really works on plastic as well as alluminum and since you use your drill, it take the elbow grease out of the project. The polish they sell is high quality and really fine, my lenses are crystal clear. Just FLITZ IT!![/QUOTE]
:lol: :lol: You sound like an infomercial!
:lol: :lol: You sound like an infomercial!
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